Window trim with vinyl siding: How to Install Window Casing for Vinyl Siding? (Step-by-Step Tutorial)

Trimming a Window for Insulated Vinyl Siding: Tools and Materials

1. Aluminum coil
2. Aluminum break
3. Snips
4. Speed Square
5. Hammer
6. Nails
7. Carpenters pencil

Step 1: Select Your J-Channel

When installing traditional vinyl siding, the standard j-channel ranges from ⅝” to ⅞” wide. When installing insulated vinyl siding, you must use a wider j-channel, ranging from 1-⅛” to 1-½” wide, made specifically for receiving the additional thickness of the insulation.

If you are installing a product like FullbackV, where the contoured insulation is separate from the vinyl panel, you can use a standard j-channel with some simple modifications, which we will outline later in this article. (Butt the Fullback insulation against the foam shim, then slide the siding over top, into the pocket of the j-channel. Using a foam shim maintains continuous insulation.)

Once you have your j-channel selected, push it against the edge of the window. If the channel sticks out past the widow, you will want to install a wood frame made of 2x4s around the window to build it out. Begin by installing housewrap and a drip cap at the top of the window. Frame the window with 2x4s, tapering the bottom edge to ensure any collected water can drain away from the window.

You are now ready to install the aluminum coil cap.

Step 2: Trim Windows with Coil

Measure the width and height of the 2×4 frame, then cut pieces of coil to the following lengths:

• 1 pc – 2” longer than the width of the frame top
• 2 pc – 1” longer than the height of the frame side
• 1 pc – Exact width of the frame bottom

To bend the coil, measure the inside, face, and outside of the wood frame. Use an aluminum coil brake to bend the coil to match the shape of the wood frame. Your first bend will be the inside measurement, the second bend will be the face measurement, and your third bend will be the outside measurement.

Now that you have four pieces of bent coil, you must make some cuts using snips to ensure they will fit together appropriately at the corners.

You will need notched corners on both ends of the bottom cap, as well as the tops of the side caps. Make mitered edges on the four remaining corners: the two edges on the top cap, and the two bottom edges on the side caps.

For a Notched Corner:

Start by laying the bottom cap flush against the edge of the wood frame. Mark the inside of the window, and one inch past that mark. Cut all the way to the first mark and remove the extra material, then cut to the second mark, then bend to create a tab. Repeat for the other required notched corners.

For a Mitered Corner

Lay the cap against the window frame. Mark the inside corner of the window, then draw a 45 degree angle. Leave a one inch tab at the bottom, and cut away the remaining material. Place the cap on the window, then fold the tab downward. Repeat for the other required mitered corners.

At this point, you’re ready to flash the window according to your local building codes.

Step 3: Installing J-channel

Whether you decided to build out and cap the window or not, the steps for installing j-channel around a window are the same.

Measure the width and height of the full window, then cut pieces of j-channel to the following lengths:

• 1 pc – 2” longer than the width of the frame bottom
• 2 pc – 3” longer than the height of the frame side
• 1 pc – 4” longer than the width of the frame top

You will need to create notched corners on both ends of the bottom j-channel, and at the tops of the side j-channel. You will need mitered corners on the four remaining ends (the two edges on the top j-channel, and the two bottom edges on the side j-channels).

For notched corners, remove material equal to the width of the j-channel face. For mitered corners, mark the inside corner of the window, and cut a 45 degree angle.

Insert the tab from the mitered corner into the notched corner. Repeat this for the other side of the j-channel, then add the top piece with two mitered corners.

Finish by appropriately nailing the j-channel into place. Once the windows and doors are trimmed out, and all other accessories are installed, you’re ready to install the siding panels.

Other Related Topics

The Perfect Finishing Touch • American Windows & Siding of VA, Inc.

Categories: siding replacement
Tags: exterior trim, fiber cement trim, new siding, PVC trim, siding installation, siding replacement, vinyl trim

Exterior trim contributes both beauty and function to the outside of your home.   Not only does it provide waterproofing protection around windows, doors, and at corners, it can also dramatically improve the appearance and curb-appeal of your home.  When added to a siding replacement, it provides the perfect finishing touch for an exquisite exterior.

Why Do I Need New Exterior Trim?

Here are the main reasons to consider adding or replacing exterior house trim:

Preventative Siding Maintenance

All types of siding, especially wood, are susceptible to rot and decay from moisture.  Exterior trim takes the brunt of exposure to the elements and will show the first warning signs of deterioration.  Failure to take prompt action to replace worn exterior trim can result in a higher repair bill or possibly a siding replacement.

Improve Curb-Appeal

The first thing homeowners generally think of when wanting to increase the curb-appeal of their home is exterior painting. However, painting can be expensive, time-consuming, and difficult.   For a quick, yet affordable face-lift, replace your home’s exterior trim instead of painting. Many of today’s trim options come pre-primed and/or pre-painted saving you both time and money.

What Type of Exterior Trim is Right for Me?

When considering adding or replacing exterior house trim, you should look for a product that is durable, weather-resistant, physically stable, and aesthetically pleasing.  Fortunately, recent advances in building materials technology have provided homeowners with a plethora of choices which range in cost, functional features, and beauty.

Today, homeowners are seeking low-maintenance exteriors. Thanks to modern technology there are many products available which can be grouped into three categories: vinyl, PVC, and fiber cement.

Vinyl Trim

Many builders use wood trim when constructing a new home. This cheap contractor grade trim quickly deteriorates, rots, or needs repetitive repainting. To solve the myriad of issues with wood exterior trim, vinyl trim has risen to the forefront as a popular wood trim alternative. You probably already know that vinyl siding, flooring, doors, and windows are popular building products that perform well at a great value. However many homeowners don’t realize that vinyl exterior trim also offers a number of benefits.

Vinyl Trim is highly durable making for great longevity. The vinyl material is very flexible, making it easy to fit arches, curves, and unusual trim shapes. It’s not susceptible to water damage such as rot, mold, mildew, warping, cracking, delimination, etc. It’s also resistant to insect damage such as termites, etc. Perhaps best of all, vinyl trim is virtually maintenance-free.

PVC Trim

PVC stands for polyvinyl chloride… which is basically a plastic. And although at first, the sound of “plastic trim” on one’s house may not sound very inviting, PVC trim offers several desirable attributes that are making it one of today’s more popular alternatives.

Because PVC trim is plastic in nature, it is obviously impervious to moisture and insects. And although it is not necessary for protection, PVC trim does accept paints and stains. Thanks to modern UV inhibitors, PVC trim won’t yellow over time. And, as with most plastic products, PVC trim is easy to clean.

Fiber-Cement Trim

Fiber-cement siding has gained a good reputation for its resistance to fire and rot, and its use is growing rapidly. Until recently, however, fiber-cement trim products have been limited to thin materials — generally between 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick. Several manufacturers make conventional fiber-cement trim products in thicknesses ranging from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. These thinner materials can be used for soffits and fascias.  Recently, thicker products have become available as well for other trim applications. Fiber-cement does not expand or contract significantly with changes in humidity or temperature, so the material holds paint well.

Fall is an ideal time to inspect your home’s exterior trim. Walk around your house and look at the trim around your windows and doors, at the corners, and near the roofline. Warning signs of potential problems include peeling or blistering paint, mold and mildew, warped boards, and spongy or soft spots. Check for termite damage too; they cause more damage to U.S. homes than fire, floods and storms combined!

If the trim is damaged beyond repair, the only solution is replacement. Depending on your carpentry skills, replacing exterior trim could possibly be a do-it-yourself project, however it is really best to hire a professional. The extra dollars it costs you to hire a professional now will likely save you many thousands of dollars down the road.  Look for a firm with a roster of happy customers and you won’t go wrong.

Here at American Windows & Siding of VA, Inc., we enjoy helping people.  If you have any questions about vinyl trim, vinyl soffit, vinyl siding, James Hardie fiber cement siding, or siding replacement questions of any kind … feel free to contact us anytime and we’ll do our best to answer all your questions!

Posted in siding replacementTagged exterior trim, fiber cement trim, new siding, PVC trim, siding installation, siding replacement, vinyl trim

Installing Vinyl Siding Around Windows | Home Guides

By SF Gate Contributor Updated October 18, 2021

Available in a variety of colors and styles, vinyl siding is widely used and favored by many contractors and do-it-yourselfers for its durability, attractiveness, low maintenance and relative ease of installation. One of the somewhat more complex steps in the vinyl siding process, however, is installing it properly around windows. Vinyl siding by itself does not create a waterproof seal and care must be taken to create a finished look. Carefully following the correct procedures will seal out water and ensure professional looking results where the window trim meets the siding.

Tip

For wider windows, since you cannot nail the siding along the underside of the window, run a bead of silicone along the inside of the locking tab to create a tight, wind-resistant fit.

Cutting and Installing the Molding

1. 1. Perform an Inspection

   Inspect the flashing and building wrap around the window. Ensure that the flashing along the bottom of the window overlaps the nailing hem of the last complete course of siding beneath the window. Make sure that the flashing on the vertical sides of the window overlaps the bottom flashing 2 inches or more. At the top of the window, the building paper should overlap the flashing by at least 2 inches.

2. 2. Cut the J Molding

   Use tin snips to cut a length of J molding 2 inches longer than the width of the window. Cut a 1-inch notch out of the J molding at both ends by scoring it with a utility knife across its top side, cutting in from the ends with tin snips along the corners and snapping off the resulting piece.

3. 3. Install the J Molding

   Install the J molding along the bottom edge of the window, instructs Family Handyman. Hammer in roofing nails approximately every 8 inches at the middle of the nailing slots. Nail loosely enough so that the J molding slides back and forth somewhat to allow for expansion and contraction.

4. 4. Make Additional Cuts

   Cut two lengths of J molding 2 inches longer than the height of the windows. Cut a 1-inch notch out of the inside edge at the top and bottom. Loosely nail the J molding along the sides of the window so that the notched section overlaps the piece running along the bottom of the window.

5. 5. Create and Install the Top Piece

   Create the top piece by cutting a length of J molding 2 inches longer than the width of the window. Cut a 1-inch notch on either end of the piece with tin snips, but do not score or snap the piece off, leaving a tab. Nail the J molding loosely along the top of the window and fold the tabs you created down so that they overlap the vertical pieces.

Cutting and Installing the Siding

1. 1. Make Your Mark

   Place the piece of siding to be installed under the window along the bottom edge and hold it where it will be located horizontally along the wall. Mark the siding at 1/4 inch past the edge of each side of the window to allow for expansion, advises Fine Homebuilding.

2. 2. Take Your Measurements

   Measure the distance from the inside top of the J channel to the locking tab of the course below and subtract 1/4 inch. Mark the siding to be cut at that distance up from the bottom. Notch out the siding along the marks you created using tin snips for the vertical cuts and a utility knife and straight edge for the horizontal cut.

3. 3. Install the Notched Piece

   Lock the notched siding into place and inspect its fit into the J channel. If your horizontal cut was made at a wider portion of the siding’s profile, it will fit firmly inside the J channel. If not, remove the notched piece, install undersill trim inside the J channel and fit the top edge of the notched siding into the undersill trim. Nail the notched siding into place loosely.

4. 4. Repeat Until All Siding is in its Place

   Continue installing courses of siding along the sides of the window leaving 1/4-inch spaces within the J channel at the end of each piece of the siding for expansion. Mark, cut and notch the top piece so that it fits into the J channel, again leaving 1/4-inch space for expansion. Snap it into place and nail it loosely.

   Things You Will Need

References

• Fine Homebuilding: Vinyl Siding Done Right
• Family Handyman: How to Install Vinyl Siding

Tips

• For wider windows, since you cannot nail the siding along the underside of the window, run a bead of silicone along the inside of the locking tab to create a tight, wind-resistant fit.

How to Install a New Window in a House With Vinyl Siding

Posted on May 11th, 2020 in the category: News & Information

Replacing old, tired-looking windows can make a big difference to the overall appearance of a house, not to mention that it can also help to improve the energy efficiency and security of the property. But replacing a window and installing a new one can seem like a daunting task, especially in a home with vinyl siding which will need to be removed to facilitate the installation.  

What is Vinyl Siding

Before we get further into the process of installing a new window into a house with vinyl siding, it’s important to first understand what vinyl siding is. Vinyl siding is a plastic exterior siding used for houses and small scale apartment buildings. Vinyl siding provides a consistent aesthetic appearance as well as weatherproofing against the elements and is also fire resistant. Most vinyl siding is designed to replicate the look of wooden clapboard, board and batten or shakes and comes in fairly neutral colors, though the number of colors available is increasing. Vinyl siding first appeared on the market in the late 1950s as a replacement for aluminium and fibre cement siding and is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) resin. It has since become a very popular material as it is cheap and readily available and it is used widely in the property manufacturing industry throughout the United States and Canada. You may also come across vinyl siding in the UK and New Zealand though it often comes under a different name, and is often referred to as ‘PVC Weather boarding’. When installed correctly vinyl siding can be very durable and a long-lasting alternative to other building materials. 

How to install a new window in a house with vinyl siding

1. Measure the existing window to purchase a replacement.
If you are replacing a window then the first thing you will want to do is to measure the existing window so that you can order a replacement. Measure the width, height, and diagonal of the window from frame edge to frame edge, ensuring not to measure the trim as this is installed separately. Most windows can now be ordered in set sizes; however, if you cannot find an existing window to fit your measurements then you may need to have one custom made.

2. Prepare the inside of the old window area.
To remove the old window you will need to remove the old window surround and trim; do this carefully and you may be able to reuse them for the new installation. The drywall surrounding the window inside the house can also get in the way of the window removal process and so in some cases it is best to remove it, though do be aware that this will add time to the project as it will need replacing. To remove the drywall, use a utility knife to make shallow incisions – also known as to score – the area of drywall that you wish to remove; this will weaken these areas making it easier to remove the drywall section. Next, use a crowbar or chisel to gently and carefully remove the drywall areas. To avoid damaging areas of the drywall that you do not need to remove, ensure to score carefully and go back and score again if pieces to not come away easily. 

3. Remove the old window.
The goal is to remove the old window without causing damage to the frame of anything else around the window. Start by removing any nails or screws that may be holding the window in place, and remove any wooden supports you find between the window and the wooden studs around the window. Knock the supports out with a hammer, or unscrew them if they are screwed in place. Next, from the outside of the property make cuts around the seal of the window frame using a utility knife, this will loosen the frame and make it easier to pull out. Finally, pull out the frame from the window hole – you may need to use a crowbar or a chisel if it is still in there tight. Remember to have plenty of spare help on hand as windows can often be heavy and difficult to maneuver.

4. Remove the vinyl casing.
Windows installed into houses with vinyl siding usually have an exterior vinyl casing which holds the window in place. This vinyl casing can usually be found in the same color as the siding and can be found on the perimeter of the open space in the wall after the window is removed. If there are nails holding the vinyl casing in place then remove them with a hammer before pulling the casing out.

5. Remove any damaged vinyl siding.
If the vinyl siding around the window area has been damaged or needs replacing then now is the time to remove it. Don’t cut it; instead, remove any nails, then use a siding removal tool to separate the siding panels. Now is also the time to add or replace a vinyl sill if you would like a window sill feature. Remember to add the end caps to the window sill and to glue them in place in order to hide the hollow interior and protect it from the elements.

6. Check the window area.
Having removed the old window and any damaged vinyl siding, you can now check the window area substrate for any signs of rot in the wood; you can do this by running a flat blade screwdriver along the frame to probe for soft or crumbling areas. If you find any rot then these areas will need replacing before installing the new window. If there is rot in the wood beneath a new window this will continue to worsen until eventually the window will sag or could come loose.

7. Add sill flashing tape.
Because the vinyl siding on the exterior of the window does not provide a 100% waterproof barrier, it’s important to also install building paper and flashing to avoid water getting in and rotting the wood beneath the window. Add building paper which should extend behind the window’s nailing fin. If you see any holes in the building paper then patch them with house wrap tape. Next, install the flashing; the flashing should extend along the bottom of the window and overlap the nailing hem. It should also extend partway up the sides to ensure that any water that gets in will be directed away from the dry wood beneath. As a general rule, the flashing along the sides of the window should extend around five inches out from the edge, two inches past the top and overlap the bottom flashing by at least two inches.

8. Dry fit the new window.
Carefully lift the new window into the window area to check if it fits. There should be a small ½ or ¾ inch gap around the edge of the window. If it fits remove it and set it aside. If the window is too small then you can add furring strips to match the new window size. If the window is too big then it is best to return it and get the right size – otherwise you will need to cut into the raw opening, which is a job best left to the professionals.

9. Fit the window.
Once you are confident your window fits and have prepared the dry opening, it’s time to run a bead of caulk along the exterior stops. This should follow the edges of the window opening. Next, lift the window – the more hands the better – and fit it into the gap, ensuring that the corners sit flush. Once the window is in place, screw the fasteners into place and seal any gaps with frame sealant for a neat finish. If there are some larger gaps you may wish to fill them with foam first. Once the foam is dry, trim it back with a craft knife so that it does not bulge out from the frame and then cover it over with frame sealant. It’s important that all exterior gaps are filled to avoid water penetration.

10. Add a new J-channel to the window frame.
In order to re-fit vinyl casing around the exterior of the window, you will need a J-channel. Vinyl casing requires a J-channel to slide into; having removed the old vinyl casing, it’s time to install a new J-channel. To add more architectural detail to the window frame you can also use moulding and casing, which will hide the J-channel whilst providing an original colonial facade. If you are using vinyl casing then ensure that the angle of the casing matches the angle of the sill by cutting it to fit. Fit the J-channel or vinyl casing to the window and secure with nails and sealant.

11. Re-install the vinyl siding.
With the window installed the last thing you will need to do to the exterior of the window is to replace any removed vinyl siding. You may be able to reuse the old siding if it is not damaged, otherwise you may need to cut new sections. Vinyl siding can be cut with either tin snipper or a utility knife. Tin snippers can be used in much the same way as a pair of conventional scissors, though you should try to avoid closing them completely to give a smoother cutting finish. Alternatively, Vinyl siding can also be trimmed by scoring them with a utility knife at the point at which you wish them to be trimmed and then snapping the piece off along the scoreline. Each piece that is adjacent to the window should slide neatly into the J-channel that you have installed. Remember to leave about a ¼ inch for expansion. The vinyl siding should lock into one another with the siding locking edge locking into the coursing below. Then secure the panels with nails leaving 1/16 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch of the nail exposed to allow the vinyl siding to move as it expands. This will prevent buckling.

12. Fill in the gaps around the inside of the window.
Sealing isn’t just important on the outside of the window but on the inside too. To help the window fit into the rough gap it is often made to be slightly smaller than the gap it is being inserted into. This excess gap can be filled with jammers and then sealed with expanding foam from a foam gun. Be sure to use a 1-1 expanding foam so that it doesn’t expand too much, pushing the window out of place. Once the foam has dried you can then trim off any excess with a craft knife before sealing over it with frame sealant. Properly sealing the interior of windows can help to reduce drafts, improve the energy efficiency for the window and keep the window in place.

13. Finish up the inside aesthetics.
Finally, it’s time to finish off the interior aesthetics by replacing the trim to cover the foam and sealant filling the gaps. If you managed to carefully remove the trim from the old window, then this can be reinstalled. If the trim was damaged or you are looking to upgrade the aesthetic then you will need to purchase, cut and fit a new interior window trim. Whichever trim you use, secure it with pin nails and sealant and if necessary paint it for a professional finish. 

14. Test the windows.
With your new window installation complete it’s time to test that everything opens and shuts as it should. Once you are happy with the installation let the windows rest for at least 24 hours so that all of the sealants can dry properly before you begin excessively using the windows.

And there you have it. Window installation can look easy when watching someone else do it but the process itself can be long and technical. To ensure you get it right and achieve the finish you want, take it slow and pay attention to the details. Window installation is better done right the first time around to avoid costly re-fits and future repairs.

90,000 decoration of the window siding with your own hands: step -by -step instruction

Content

• Methods for decorating openings
• Preparatory stage
• Installation It is quite simple to sheathe a house with siding on your own. For such work, you do not need to master special skills. It is necessary to carefully prepare in advance. The quality of the result depends on how well all the subtleties of the process are thought out. The work includes not only the installation of panels, but also the lining of the basement and windows. That is why a beginner, if necessary, to perform such work often gets into a dead end. To understand the cladding process, you will need to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for finishing the window with siding with your own hands.

  Ways to finish openings

  When creating an attractive window finish, the type of window installed is of great importance. It depends on it which technology will be chosen for the installation of siding panels. There are several types of installation of double-glazed windows:

  • Flush with the wall. This option is the easiest. With this installation, the windows platbands can have different widths. The complexity of such work is minimal.

    Attention! When installing an arched window, you should choose a narrow platband. The mounting part of this element can simply be cut with a certain step, and then bent.

  • The window is recessed into the wall. To design a structure installed in this way, it is necessary to purchase a J-profile. The slope must be closed with a near-window bar.
  • Deep recessed designs. For this option, trimmed wall panels are perfect. In addition, during installation, you will need to install corners and a J-profile.

  In each of these cases, the finishing is done before the wall panels that will be placed around the window are fixed. In this case, the edges of these elements simply need to be inserted into the groove on the edge of the profile. When finishing after installing the panels, the work will cause certain difficulties.

  Mounting technology common to all siding panels. Screws should be screwed in the center of the mounting holes. In this case, a gap of 1 mm should be left for cases where thermal expansion will occur. So the panels will move freely without deforming. Subject to this rule, it will be much easier to install siding panels on a window.

  Features of window siding can be found in the video:

  Attention! According to the instructions, during installation, you can fix the elements in arbitrary places.

  The battens must be fastened around the perimeter of the window. Small planks are installed on the slope. This will make it easier to install the finish profile. The bars must be the same size. This will make the surface of the wall more even. All work is carried out with a level.

  Preparatory stage

  Quality window finishing outside requires some preparation. Such work includes:

  • removal of decorative elements;
  • cleaning the surface of old plaster;
  • removal of old wooden parts;
  • dismantling of communications.

  In addition, technical devices and devices are removed – antennas and air conditioners. The surface is cleaned and dried. Such preparation is best done if it is planned to clad the entire facade of the building.

  Installation of the frame

  When deciding to finish the window opening with siding, it is worth considering that before such work, the crate should be made. You will need it for the following reasons:

  • so that the material is securely fixed;
  • lining will be much easier;
  • to level the surface of the wall.

  The following options are suitable for purlins:

  • wooden beam with a section of 4×6 cm.
  • metal profile.

  Tip! When using a wooden beam, before starting the lining, it is necessary to treat the elements with an antiseptic. This will help prevent rotting of the tree and its damage by insects.

  Frame parts are fixed at a distance of 20 cm from each other. This step is optimal. If it is more or less, the strength or aesthetics of the structure will decrease.

  Insulation

  Finishing windows during the installation of siding involves the creation of an insulating layer that will protect the window frame and the room behind it from the effects of cold. Warming is best done with polystyrene foam plates. It is attached to dowels with wide caps.

  Tip! To protect the insulation from moisture, a film should be laid on top.

  Since gaps cannot be avoided during the installation of the window frame, the sealant must be prepared in advance. Thanks to the use of this material, it is possible to improve the hydro- and thermal insulation properties of the structure as a whole.

  Window finishing technology

  For each of these cases, the actions may have a different order. Separately, you should familiarize yourself with the decoration of windows without slopes. Sheathing with siding in this case includes the use of special trim.

  There are several recommendations for such work:

  • First you need to determine the width of the frame.
  • After that, trims are cut. They must be whole. The required length of the bar is calculated using a special formula based on the width of the casing (a) and the length of the frame (b). The formula looks like this – L=2*a+b.
  • Profiles are joined at right angles. They can also be connected at an angle of 45 degrees. In the latter case, the joint looks more aesthetically pleasing. The sealing of various structural elements can be achieved due to the fact that a cutout is made on the side of the vertical strips. At the same time, horizontal elements are cut and bent.
  • If it is decided to make joints at a 45 degree angle, the cut must be made at the top of the vertical element. The upper horizontal trim is not cut off.
  • The horizontal elements are installed first, and then the vertical ones.
  • The last step is to install the horizontal trim.

  Tip! For greater reliability, the elements are fastened with a sealant.

  The panels are cut above and below the window structure. The slot should be slightly narrower than the width of the window trim. You can learn more about the technology of cladding window structures with siding from the video:

  Recessed structures

  Window trims are great when the window is not too deep in the wall. Thanks to the use of slats, the slopes are closed.

  The window strip is then placed in the hole in the finishing profile. During the docking of the planks on the vertical elements that are joined to the slope, it is necessary to make special cutouts. Horizontal elements are cut and bent.

  Now the window siding can be considered finished. For different design solutions used when installing windows, there are specific features of siding installation.

  If the window is recessed fairly deep, window trims are not required. For such structures, small trimmings of wall panels are used. During installation, a corner is used.

  Mounting can be carried out using a special flashing. Its edges must be cut and bent under the vertical elements. To increase the reliability of fastening the ebb, a sealant is used.

  Installation of siding on windows is carried out in the following order:

  • first, a J-profile is attached around the perimeter of the structure;
  • then the installation of pre-prepared elements of the frame panels is carried out;
  • at the final stage, the corner profile is installed.

  During installation, follow the same rules as for the general installation of siding panels. Each connection should be made with a 5 mm gap.

  Attention! When performing work in autumn or winter, the gaps should be increased to 10-12 mm.

  Arched windows

  These designs look great, but finishing them involves some difficulties. Installation of siding on arched windows is complicated by the presence of a curved part in the upper part of the structure.

  For finishing, J-profile is usually chosen, which is quite flexible. However, its cost is significantly higher than that of the usual one. For this reason, its standard counterpart is often chosen. To do this, in a regular profile, several cuts should be made, which are made on the mounting part. Then it is bent to give the required radius of curvature.

  Attention! In some cases, incisions are created on the front side of the product. With careful execution of the operation, such a solution will become an effective design technique.

  Alternatively, you can replace the arch opening with a polygonal opening. The design of such a window is performed using the same technology. However, the profile cutting will be large.

  The ease of bending of a regular J-profile will depend on the material it is made from. In the case of metal, it will succumb much harder than plastic. To create an arc of the required radius of curvature, you should choose vinyl siding. To facilitate the bend, it should be well warmed up. However, do not abuse it – plastic can easily melt.

  Given these rules and guidelines, it is possible to finish windows with siding quite quickly and effectively. This will save time and effort. With proper installation of the facing material, the window will look very attractive.

  Conclusions

  The overall impression of the facade of the house depends on how well the windows will be finished. That is why such work should be treated with the utmost caution. The installation technology is determined by the shape of the window, as well as the degree of its recession in the wall. Such work will be simple even for a novice builder.

  If you follow the suggested tips, finishing the window with siding will not be difficult, and the result will be pleasing to the eye.

  Before facing, it is better to take care of the correct preparation of the opening. It should be thoroughly cleaned. To protect the interior from the cold, it is necessary to create a heat-insulating layer. It is made from polystyrene boards.

  If the window cladding with siding is done correctly, the decorative elements will not be deformed under the influence of temperature changes and weather conditions. The process of finishing the window with siding can be found in the video:

  • Liquid glass and its application

  • How many boards in a cube

  • Fiberboard or hardboard

  • Do-it-yourself bark beetle plaster

  with and without slopes, material.

  Instruction from a specialist

  Siding finishing can look neat and beautiful only when all additional structural elements are correctly selected, a strong and even crate is created, and not only walls are sheathed by the material itself. To complete the finish, you can do without a specialist, but special attention should be paid to the crate.

  Types of material

  Siding is made from various composite materials, but vinyl and steel are most applicable in finishing, as the most durable and running options on the building materials market.

  The most popular of these is vinyl. It is used more often, and its cost is lower compared to the metal counterpart. It looks neat, presentable, not afraid of humidity and low temperatures. The structure of the material is not hygroscopic, it is not afraid of summer heat and temperature changes. If the installation is done correctly, and in the future the rules for caring for the material are followed, then it will last a long time.

  Metal siding outperforms vinyl siding with its durability – the service life is up to fifty years. The material is a metal plate coated with a polymer compound to prevent corrosion on the surface.

  Metal siding is more commonly used for window siding because it is more flexible than vinyl siding and less sensitive to high temperatures when exposed to the sun. As for the disadvantages, metal will cost more and weigh more, therefore, when decorating old and dilapidated buildings, it can be preferred only if additional fortifications are provided.

  Tools for work

  For sheathing window openings, you need a screwdriver – they will screw in self-tapping screws.
  You will also need scissors to cut metal profiles to fit the size of the window opening.
  To punch holes, you will need a punch, as well as a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth. Instead of the latter, a jigsaw may be more convenient. And finally, a cutter knife – they outline a line for bending and sawing vinyl siding. If the sheet is bent several times along this line in different directions, it will easily break strictly along the line.

  Among the small instrument

  • Clenchor,
  • Roulette,
  • Rules,
  • Hammer,
  • Level,
  • Pit.

  Required fittings

  Preferably, if the fittings are made by the same manufacturer as the purchased siding. But there are also such exceptions when metal fittings are selected for vinyl material.

  Pay attention!

  It is better to stock up on enough fittings in advance with a margin – practice shows that it is always small. Yes, and getting into the same tone in color will not be easy, buying the missing one.

  To calculate how many fittings you need, consider the following points. For low tide, measure the distance under the slave itself and along the outer side of the low tide. In the same way, other sides of the window are measured, and the same indicators are measured on the outside of the opening.
  The dimensions obtained on the outside of the opening are added up and another 10-15% is added on top. Low tide is then counted separately. Excess material is needed for the reason that there will inevitably be waste when cutting and bending materials.

  for lining the window opening will need

  • Profile J of plastic,
  • Profile N for connecting parts with each other,
  • corners for conjunction of panels,
  • Smaching tint,
  • 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000
  • finishing bar.

  PVC flashing is usually supplied with the windows, but if not, it must also be purchased.

  Preparation of slopes for work

  If there are cracks or chipped parts on the surface, they must be plastered and leveled. This is necessary because under the surface of the finish, the crack can increase and, as a result, completely disappear along with the siding. When the primer dries, the surface is treated with a primer solution.

  Before installing the batten, mark on the surface where the future profiles will be fixed. They are placed horizontally or vertically – depending on how the siding will be installed. The crate is not used so often, since the width of the slope does not always allow such an installation. However, this option is also possible, especially in cinder block and brick houses. If the house is wooden, self-tapping screws are screwed into the surface itself, in other cases, parts can be attached to liquid nails.

  Window cladding without slopes

  Window cladding is carried out with platbands and J profiles if necessary.

  1. First measure the bottom section of the frame.
  2. Then, on the prepared casing, a segment is receded along its width, and one more measurement along the width of the casing is measured from the resulting line.
  3. Then, on two sides, an angle of 45 ^about is measured. At this mark, cut off the outer part of the panel. The side parts are measured in the same way, but at an angle of 45 ^about cut only the upper parts.
  4. First glued and then additionally screwed on the bottom cladding panel.
  5. Then, one by one, fasten the side parts, inserting them with the edges inside the bottom bar. This is done to prevent gaps in the corners between the panels.
  6. Install the top part last, inserting into the side installed parts and screwing.

  Sloped window cladding

  For large slopes, a flashing is a must. So the work begins on him. In order for the ebb to be well established on the lower part of the opening, it must be carefully adjusted. To do this, measure the dimensions of the width of all slopes, as well as the opening under the window. The ebb must be made larger than the last by 3-5 cm. These measurements are applied to the future ebb, a line is drawn and the material is cut or bent along it.

  With a metallic sheen, excess pieces are not cut off entirely, but only along the side parts. Along the cutting line, the ebb is bent on the sides. This is necessary to eliminate gaps between the side panels and the ebb.

  Having determined the area of ​​the drip that will directly touch the frame, it is recommended to apply a thin strip of liquid nails to it to eliminate the gap. Then the ebb is attached to the frame, and to the side walls through the bends made earlier.

  A J-profile is attached to the top of the frame, and pieces of siding are already inserted into it. The upper area is measured in the same way, but its width should be the same as that of the slopes.

  The top and side parts are attached to the J-profile, pre-screwed into the frame, and the outer part is closed with a corner.

  Pay attention!

  The siding can also be installed horizontally on the opening. But then the required number of pieces of siding is prepared in advance for fixing between the profile and the corner. The top and bottom pieces should also be adjusted to the angles of the slope of the top of the opening and the ebb.

  Thus, to work with wide openings, battening is almost always necessary, while for narrow slopes, its installation is not always necessary, since space does not allow it.

  You can get acquainted with the secrets of installing siding on windows with your own hands on the video.

  Exterior window trim with vinyl, metal and window siding

  • 1 Choice of material for finishing
    • 1. 1 Vinyl
    • 1.2 Metal
  • 2 Nuances when installing the finishing profile
  • 3 Installation of the subsystem0004
  • 4.1 Trim installation

• Exterior window siding will only be done correctly in one case. If all the technological requirements of the manufacturer when working with the material were taken into account. Violation of the recommendations can lead to a partial, and in the future, a complete violation of the integrity of the panels and the entire facade. Under all conditions, the life of the house and the window opening sewn under the siding can reach 50 years.

  Choice of trim material

  Vinyl window siding is the most common exterior finish. Metal slopes are practically not inferior in popularity. These types of material, at the moment, are the absolute leaders in their segment.

  Vinyl

  If we talk about how to sheathe a window with siding with your own hands, then you should focus on plastic. The fact is that products made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) have a lot of positive characteristics in relation to finishing the window opening with siding.
  In order to veneer the slopes, it does not take much time. All you need is a screwdriver, tape measure, carpentry angle, metal shears or a jigsaw. Such a minimum set of tools will be enough to do the work yourself. In addition, plastic siding has a number of other advantages that allow you to opt for it:

  • Complete home cladding with vinyl siding compares favorably with low material cost;
  • Presence of special elements intended directly for finishing window slopes;
  • Easy further operation. A self-made facade of vinyl panels is washed with a regular car wash;
  • PVC is not subject to corrosion processes, is practically indifferent to temperature changes and other atmospheric and climatic phenomena.

  Metal

  Metal siding around the windows is a long lasting way to decorate your home. Naturally, provided that the material is manufactured with all technological requirements and has passed all the necessary stages of processing. Due to the fact that a special polymer coating is applied to the panels, the metal is protected from corrosion for 50 – 60 years. In addition, the installation of such a facing material allows you to completely transform the facade. This is due to the numerous color and texture range of panels imitating natural wood or giving the strips a specific color that is not characteristic of PVC products.

  Another positive characteristic is that the metal does not melt and does not support combustion processes. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the greater weight of the panels in comparison with plastic and the high cost. But all this can be compensated by long-term operation and an unforgettable appearance of the house, the window opening of which is made of such material.

  Useful for your job

  Metal siding is one of the most durable window shedding materials, and vinyl is the most economical option.

  Nuances when installing a finishing profile

  Finishing a window with siding, regardless of the design features of the building and openings, requires compliance with several important requirements. And it doesn’t matter what elements are used for this. Therefore, before installation, it is recommended to carefully read them:

  • To simplify installation and give an effective look to the work performed, it is recommended to use only high-quality fittings belonging to the same brand as the rest of the material;
  • Cut at 45 degrees from the sides of the panel. This will prevent the formation of gaps between the elements;
  • Window cladding requires accurate measurements of window openings. Failure to comply will lead to the presence of gaps that adversely affect the appearance of the opening;
  • Remember that all self-tapping screws and hardware must be coated with a galvanized layer. They need to be screwed into the profile only at a right angle;
  • When using vinyl siding, in order to prevent the panel from deforming during temperature changes, it is recommended to leave a standard gap of 1 – 1. 5 cm, necessary for the expansion and contraction of the material.

  Sub-system installation

  PVC siding window siding and installation of similar material slopes require some additional battens. The fact is that you will need to install G-trim strips or a starting profile, which need to be attached to something. To do this, along the entire perimeter of the window, at a distance of no more than 1 cm from the frame, a beam is mounted. It is on it that the components will be fixed in the future. Plus, it is necessary to install a profile for the near-window strip or outer corner, which will be mounted in the future.

  Facade advice

  What will be used as a batten is decided by the owner of the house, based on his own principles. For plastic, this can be a galvanized metal profile or a wooden beam. But, it should be noted that for metal it is desirable to choose a galvanized crate.

  Window trim without sills

  Since metal slats are manufactured by the manufacturer and sold ready-made, all you have to do is screw them into place . Therefore, further, we will talk about plastic window openings.

  If the siding is being installed around the window and there is no need to make slopes, the installation of platbands will be required. This will require a crate. It is to her that the starting or finishing strips will be fixed. At the same time, when mounting without slopes, the latter is mounted in the upper part of the opening, and the finishing bar – in the lower and from the sides. The procedure is as follows:

  1. The distance of the window opening is measured. Along the entire perimeter of the window, you need to mount the G-trim strips;
  2. After that, appropriate cutouts are made on the panel. Moreover, it is desirable to make them with a large gap equal to 6 mm;
  3. Before installing the bottom sheet of the siding, it is desirable to install a carrier profile. This will give the structure greater strength;
  4. When finishing the openings between the windows, the installation of the siding is carried out according to the usual technology;
  5. The top panel is cut out and installed in the same way as the bottom.

  Installation of architraves

  If it is decided to install additional architraves on window openings, the work process is as follows:

  1. Start from the bottom bar. The width of the opening is measured. At the end of the casing, a mark is made at 45 degrees, then a length equal to the value of the previously measured width of the opening is marked. A mark is made with a construction pencil. Another angle is drawn from it, similar to the opposite. The resulting trapezoidal strip is cut off with a grinder or a jigsaw;
  2. The side trim is made in the same way. The difference lies in the fact that the corners are cut off only from one side, the top side. The opposite casing is also cut off. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that both segments are similar with the same length and symmetrical angles;
  3. The top bar does not have chamfered corners. Its length will be equal to the size of the window opening added to the width of the casing. This must be done on each side;
  4. All elements are mounted on liquid nails;
  5. Sometimes only G-trim bar is used for additional edging. Quite often, it may differ in color from the main facade.

  Finishing a window without slopes is carried out sequentially, in the order as indicated above. It is recommended to measure each strip only after installing the previously cut casing.

  Sloped window trim

  As mentioned earlier, sloping window siding requires additional framing. The instruction for performing work on finishing the wall around the window is practically the same as the work described earlier. The only difference is that instead of the G-trim bar, you need to fix the outer corner or window bar around the entire perimeter.
  The advantage that this finishing element has is that one side of the corner or plank acts as a platband, the other as a slope. At the same time, the facing material is cut off in a similar way to the previously described method for manufacturing platbands: vertical at an angle of 45 degrees and only from above, and the upper crossbar is cut from both sides.

  The next step in window finishing involves cutting and subsequent installation on the façade. In this case, the finish bar will act as a guide element into which the edge of the slope or corner is fixed. If the G-trim bar is installed instead, installation can be carried out using horizontal segments of a regular strip, cut to the size of the resulting opening. At the same time, when installing window slopes with siding with your own hands, you should take into account the technological properties of the material, which depend on the ambient temperature. Therefore, it is impossible to install bands end-to-end. From the side of the facade, the near-window strip or the outer corner are fixed with self-tapping screws using conventional technology.

  Important to know

  When making window slopes for your house, it is advisable to think in advance about how to cut special locks designed to fix the panel in the finish bar. This will require a tool called a puncher. If you do not purchase it, you can try to make such latches with a knife. But keep in mind that this can damage the strip.

  Similar articles

  Do-it-yourself window siding

  Siding is a popular finishing material for facades. One of its main advantages is that the panels are easy to install with your own hands, without the help of a specialist.

  In the article we will consider one of the stages of facade cladding – finishing window openings. You will learn how to decorate a window with siding, what tools and techniques should be used, and what cladding options are used in modern construction.

  Window trim with Alta-Profil siding. Photo #1.

  What is the best siding?

  Metal and vinyl siding are most commonly used.

  Vinyl siding is more affordable and therefore more popular:

  • Inexpensive
  • does not absorb moisture
  • resistant to low temperatures, well tolerates the heat 9000,
  • serves 15-20 years 9000
  • Easily cleared

  High-quality metal siding-more reliable-more reliable material.

  • Service life – 45-50 years
  • Anti-corrosion polymer coating on the surface of panels
  • Withstands high temperatures at which vinyl panels can melt

  But metal siding costs more than vinyl and weighs more. Due to its severity, it is undesirable to use it for sheathing old houses. Walls that have lost their strength may not support the weight of the finish.

  When to finish windows?

  Siding installation procedure is as follows:

  1. Preparatory work. This includes cleaning the walls, installing a vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing.
  2. Installation of laths or metal purlin profiles.
  3. Installation of the initial strip along the perimeter of the facade, installation of external and internal corners.
  4. Finishing of window and door openings.
  5. Installation of siding panels.

  Thus, the finishing of windows with siding from the outside is carried out after the installation of the initial (starting) siding strip and before the facade cladding.

  Tools

  • Screwdriver. You will have to screw in the screws for fastening the siding panels and fittings.
  • Metal shears. Useful for cutting profiles and fitting them to the size of the window.
  • Cutter. Needed to mark the lines along which the siding panel will be bent or sawn.
  • Hacksaw with fine teeth for cutting metal and wood. An alternative option is an electric jigsaw.
  • Punch. Needed for making neat holes in siding panels.
  • Square, rulers, tape measure, building level.
  • Hammer.
  • Pencil or chalk for marking.

  Fittings

  To work, you will need the following components:

  J-trim trim or trim for windows without slopes

  J-trim trim. Photo #2.

  Window trim for sloped windows

  Window trim. Photo #3.

  Finishing bar

  Finishing bar. Photo #4.

  You may also need:

  Alta-Profile plastic trim

  Alta-Profile plastic trim. Photo #5.

  Universal slope.

  Special finishing element for finishing the slopes of window openings.

  Universal slope. Photo #6.

  Corner pieces for architraves and slopes.

  Simplifies the joining of architraves and slopes in the corners of the opening.

  Slope angle. Photo number 7.

  Installation Considerations

  There are a few universal rules to follow when installing siding hardware and panels.

  • Use only stainless steel or galvanized screws for installation.
  • Screws must be screwed in at an angle of 90°. If you allow a slight inclination when screwing in, the fastener will be unreliable. Subsequently, all window siding may suffer from this.
  • Do not tighten the screws as tightly as possible. With temperature changes, siding panels can expand and contract. If the self-tapping screw is tightened to the limit, the panels are deformed, and the entire finish will have to be repaired. Therefore, there should be a gap of 1–1.5 mm between the screw head and the siding surface.
  • Self-tapping screws must only be screwed into the special slots. You can’t pierce the panel. This causes the siding to bulge.
  • Use a batten. It provides a ventilated gap between the panels and the wall. In this way, water vapor will be removed, less cold will enter the house in winter (it is easier to heat), and in summer the house will not heat up so much.
  • Metal profiles are ideal for purlins. But if you decide to use wooden bars or slats, they need to be dried and treated with protective compounds against mold.
  • The drip tray must be installed in the window opening first. So its fasteners can be easily blocked by vertical strips that are installed on the slopes.
  • When joining fittings and fasteners, it is important not to leave gaps through which moisture can get under the casing. This will damage the entire finish and wet the insulation.
  • Requirements for self-tapping screws. The length should be enough to enter the crate or wall (if it is wooden) by at least 35 mm. The minimum cap diameter is 8 mm.
  • If you are using a grinder to trim the siding, use it at low speeds. At high speed, the grinder can melt the vinyl panel or profile at the cut site.

  These rules are important, regardless of the type of fittings, the presence or absence of slopes, the overall design of the finish. Now consider how to sheathe a window with siding.

  Sloped window trim

  Slope preparation

  Slope primer. Photo #8.

  Before finishing the window opening, it is worth checking the condition of the slopes. If you see cracks and chips, they should be repaired and plastered.

  Repaired slopes are recommended to be treated with a waterproof penetrating primer. It will keep slopes from moisture, mold and harmful microorganisms.

  Window batten for siding

  Wooden slat batten. Photo #9.

  Window sheathing for siding is an important element when sheathing the facade with siding panels. It must be equipped at the very beginning of work. For this, wooden slats or metal profiles are used.

  Profiles are installed vertically in increments of 30–40 cm. Profiles are also mounted close to window and door openings.

  Window trim with siding outside

  Installation of drip

  Window drip. Photo #10.

  This element protects the window frame from rain water. Mounted on the outside of the window from below. It is either plastic or metal. Installed like this:

  1. To begin with, measure two indicators: the width of the window opening and the width of the front part with a window trim.
     How to measure the right distance at low tide:
     • Use a tape measure to measure half of the tide and mark the area with a pencil.
     • Suppose we have a window opening width of 90 cm, and a plank width of 3 cm. In this case, we measure 48 cm from the middle of the ebb in each direction and put the appropriate marks.
     • Then cut off the excess trim pieces.
     • Make notches on the sides of the drip tray and fold the side plates up.
  2. The area between the window frame and the flashing should be treated with silicone sealant.
  3. An ebb is installed in the opening. Using self-tapping screws, it should be attached to the window support profile. The side bends of the ebb should go into the slopes and the crate. The bends are also attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. The slope of the tide should be approximately 10°.
  4. All joints must be treated with sealant.
  5. The area under the tide is sealed with mounting foam for sound and heat insulation. While the foam dries, the ebb can be pressed down with a weight to keep the expanding foam from lifting it up.

  !

  Expert advice. External finishing of windows with siding can be done without installation of low tide. Sometimes it is enough to sheathe the window with platbands or near-window slats.

  Finishing window slopes with siding

  Siding on window slopes. Photo #11.

  1. Installation of the finishing strip. Needed for fixing the window trim. The finishing strip is mounted along the inner edge of the window. In our case, on the sides and top. The bar should fit closely to the window profile.
  2. A window trim is built into the finish strip. The other end of the bar is attached to the crate. Along the edge there are holes for self-tapping screws. With their help, the bar is screwed to the frame.

     !

     Expert advice. Do not tighten screws too tightly. A gap of 1 mm must be left to avoid deformation of the material when stretched or compressed.

  3. The side trims must cover the side folds of the flashing.
  4. Planks can be joined at an angle of 90°. To do this, you need to make incisions in the places where the planks fit and bend the material inward. An alternative option is to join the planks at an angle of 45o.
  5. If the windows are standard sizes, the seams can be sealed with silicone. In large windows, it is better not to do this, as the profiles may swell under the influence of temperatures.

  Window design without slopes

  Siding on windows without slopes. Photo #12.

  If the window is without slopes and is on the same plane with the wall, the sheathing technology is somewhat different: platbands or a wide J-profile are used.

  1. First we need to know the width of the window frame. Then – the width of the casing.
  2. After that, we take the casing, which will fit in the lower part of the window opening. On it we measure the width of the window frame + two widths of the casing.
     If the frame width is 90 cm, and the casing is 4 cm, then we need to measure 90 + (4 * 2) = 98 cm. Then the excess part of the casing is cut off.
  3. Measure a 45° angle from each end of the architraves (may be marked with a pencil or chalk). Then, at this mark, it is necessary to cut off the outer part of the panel.
  4. The same measurements and cutting should be done with the trim, which will be attached at the top of the window opening.
  5. The side architraves are measured in the same way, but they do not need to be cut at an angle.
  6. After the preparatory work, the lower architraves are mounted on the crate under the window opening. Then, one by one, fasten the side strips, inserting their edges into the inside of the lower casing. So there will be no gap between the panels.
  7. The final step is to install the top trim.

  !

  Expert advice. Sheathing the window with siding is usually done before the installation of ordinary panels.

  The simplest window finish

  From the materials you will need architraves and universal slopes “Alta-Profile”. The procedure is as follows:

  1. Installing the corner element of the slope. One end of the element is inserted into the starting bar, the other is fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate. Corner elements make it easy to connect slopes and architraves without the need for trimming.

     Installing the corner piece. Photo #13.

  2. Slope setting. 15 cm are sawn off from the universal slope along with mounting fasteners. Then it is connected to the corner element with the cut off part. The other side is attached to the next slope – and so on until the entire perimeter is completely finished.

     Connecting the universal slope to the corner piece. Photo #14.

  3. After the installation of the slopes is completed, the corner element of the casing is installed. It must be inserted into the mounting groove of the slope angle, and the other end is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.

     Installing the corner trim. Photo #15.

  4. Trim installation. On one side of the plank, you need to saw off 6-8 cm along with mounting fasteners. The sawn-off side of the trim should be fastened to the corner element. On the free side, it joins with the next casing. So the perimeter is completely finished.

     Trim installation. Photo #16.

  For more information on how to finish windows using Alta-Profile materials, we tell in the video:

  Installation of siding around windows

  During installation, it is necessary to ensure a good fit of all elements and the absence of gaps.

  To do this, when approaching the window opening, the panel that you are going to install under the window must be cut. The width of the cutout should be equal to the width of the lower trim of the window + two horizontal expansion gaps (from 1 to 6 mm on each side). The depth of the cut depends on the location of the panel and window.

  • If the bottom trim is made of a casing or window trim, then the siding panel is fastened with hooks. Hooks need to be made on the trimmed part of the panel. The hooks are inserted into the groove of the receiving profile.
  • If a sill is installed at the bottom of the window, then nail holes are made on the panel. The siding panel with the nail holes must be installed prior to installing the flashing.

  Window framing from above follows the same pattern.

  Siding around the window (on the sides of the window opening) is joined to the rails and fastened with self-tapping screws.

  Conclusion

  Now you know how do-it-yourself window siding is done. Be sure to follow the basic installation requirements so that the sheathing is of high quality, beautiful and durable.

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  • 0006
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  slopes for siding windows: Jacket Instructions

  Content

  • What is Siding
    ,0005 9000 9000
  • 9000 9000
  • for installation
  • Subsystem
    • Metal subsystem
    • Wood subsystem
      • Installation of subsystem
  • Preparation
  • Methods of sloping from siding
    • Location of the Window with a wall of
      • Clamp
      • on the angle
    • Window openings with slopes

    9000

  9000
  Application a private house is common due to its many positive qualities. Ease of installation allows you to perform slopes on windows for siding without the involvement of specialists.

  What is siding

  Siding is more of a method of installation than a name for a material.

  The shape and texture of the siding imitates a traditional wooden plank of small width. The modern material is based on polyvinyl chloride, so the products have all the positive qualities of PVC. The siding has a matte surface that is resistant to direct sunlight.

  The material is available in a wide range of textures and colors.

  The color range is so diverse that it allows you to choose a solution for any home. The possibility of laminating the surface of vinyl boards makes it possible not to distinguish them from natural wood. At the same time, it is possible to finish windows with siding with your own hands.

  Benefits of siding

  Modern vinyl siding consists of overlapping panels that provide natural ventilation to the façade while protecting it from environmental influences. Metal and vinyl slats can be used for facades, the latter having a lower dead weight and minimal stress on the wall .

  Therefore, the installation of siding around windows is carried out using vinyl panels, which have the following positive qualities:

  • The material of the panels is frost-resistant – it withstands low temperatures and their fluctuations well;
  • moisture resistance of the material reliably protects the facade from moisture penetration. Therefore, finishing windows with siding on the outside is a practical choice;
  • dirt and dust can be easily washed off the surface of the material with a normal soap solution;
  • material is wear-resistant and durable – it does not lose its performance throughout the entire service life;
  • the surface of the siding has sufficient decorative effect and reliability of the outer coating, therefore it does not need to be painted;
  • PVC does not rot and is not afraid of corrosion;
  • this material is easy to process and install. During the work dust and construction debris are not formed;
  • due to their low weight, the panels do not exert a significant load on the structure to which they are mounted.

  Metal siding finishes windows for decades. It is not subject to corrosion due to the presence of a special polymer coating. A variety of color schemes allows you to choose the material for any facades.

  Metal siding is stronger than PVC, but more expensive

  Metal siding is non-flammable, non-melting and non-flammable . The weight of such panels is much greater than PVC. The cost is also higher, but installing metal siding around the window is more beneficial because metal will last much longer than PVC counterpart.

  Finishing the basement of the building is made with basement siding, which has increased strength characteristics.

  Installation Requirements

  There are several requirements that must be met when installing siding around a window.

  • fittings must be produced by the same manufacturer as the material itself, then the color match will be achieved and the installation process will be facilitated;
  • to avoid gaps between the panels during their fastening, it is recommended to make cuts of 45 degrees on the sides of the panels;
  • to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to perform high-quality measurements of the window opening;
    fasteners must have a galvanized surface, they must enter the panel at an angle of 90 degrees;
  • when fixing PVC panels, it is necessary to take into account their possible expansion and contraction due to temperature changes, therefore it is necessary to leave a gap between the panels of 1. 5 cm.

  Subsystem

  Duration of operation and quality of finishing window openings depends on the quality of components.

  Completing materials

  Finishing window openings with siding involves the installation of a metal or wooden frame. A wooden frame will come out cheaper, and a metal one will be more reliable and durable than .

  Metal profile subsystem

  To make slopes from metal frame siding, you need to purchase the following materials:

  UD-profile – to calculate the required amount, you need to add the perimeter of the window to the perimeter of the wall. For example, if the wall is 4 x 4 meters and the window on it is 1.5 x 1 m, then 4+4+4+4 = 16 m.p. profile will go to the wall and 1.5 + 1.5 + 1 + 1 \u003d 5 m.p. goes to the window.
  CD profile (standing). When calculating its quantity, the surface length must be divided by 0.6, since this element is installed every 60 cm, but this indicator also depends on the type of insulation.
  CD connector is available for building heights over 3 meters. The number of such elements depends on the number of docking nodes.
  CD connector attachment method.
  ES bracket. It is used to fasten the CD-profile. With the help of a U-shaped bracket, you can build a structure, focusing on the building level.
  UD profiles are fixed with the help of hardware. They are chosen based on the material of the wall: self-tapping screws are used for aerated concrete and bricks, and dowel-screws are used for wood.
  Flea hardware is used to fasten metal elements together.

  The frame is made on the basis of a pre-made markup.

  At this stage, waterproofing of the façade is carried out. The method of fastening the frame elements is shown in the photo below.

  Method of fixing frame elements

  When constructing a metal frame for siding, a UD-profile is fixed on the wall along its perimeter and around window and door openings.

  UD-profile is fixed around the opening

  Using the UD-profile, the guide strip is mounted, and the siding is fixed to the metal frame using the CD-profile, the pitch of which depends on the width of the insulation material .

  Siding panels fixed to frame with CD profile

  UD profile stiffens the structure and fixes the CD profile. You can attach it to the outer wall using the crocodile bracket, which exposes the frame based on the readings of the building level.

  Wooden subsystem

  Features of the wooden frame device when sloping windows for siding include the following nuances that you need to know about: be equal to the height of the building, since their length is difficult to increase. Hardware is purchased with a step of 40 cm per hardware. If the moisture content of the wood exceeds 12%, then it is dried naturally under a press in order to avoid the effect of “torsion” of the beams.

  To increase the service life of wood, it is treated with various protective compounds .

  Installation of the subsystem

  Horizontal rails are not required to decorate the opening with siding on a wooden crate. Vertical guides must be installed in increments based on the width of the insulation material .

  The pitch between the guides depends on the type of insulation.

  The starting strip is attached to the beams.

  Installation of the starting strip

  Near the window openings, the bars are fixed in a horizontal position to ensure rigidity. The starting profile and other components, as well as the near-window bar, will be attached to the bars.

  A horizontal beam is fixed along the upper edge of the window opening

  Preparation

  Step-by-step instructions will tell you how to make slopes on windows with siding with your own hands.

  Methods for sloping siding

  Near-window installation of siding panels can have different features, depending on the depth of the window. The thickness of the wall is created by the crate, insulation and cladding. As a result, the window can be located in a depth of 5 to 19 cm.

  Window flush with the wall

  This method is used when the window is flush with the wall. In this case, the window opening is sheathed using an L-shaped apron.

  Scheme of installation of siding around windows

  First, the window opening is treated with sealant from below, then a strip is nailed onto the dowels. The rest of the strips are fixed in the same way, and the top one is sealed with an aluminum profile.

  It is recommended to install the siding with an overlap on the window block in order to close the gap between its structure and the wall .

  Overlap

  Gaps will be hidden by siding.

  At an angle

  The device is similar to the above method, only there is a need to trim the top and side profiles at the bottom at 45 degrees, not forgetting the dimensions of the thermal gap, which must be covered.

  Schemes for finishing the slope angle with siding

  Window openings with slopes

  When finishing the facade with plastic siding, slopes of the same material can be arranged.

  Along the contour of the window opening, sheathed with window siding, a J-profile is installed, into which the sheathing is inserted.

  J-profile is inserted into the casing

  Then the starting strips for the lining made of plastic are installed along the perimeter of the window opening, while observing its strict geometric position.

  Starting strips are installed along the perimeter of the window opening

  With the help of a square, the outer starting bar is positioned on the surface of the window profile, taking into account the location of the slope finish relative to the profile at 90 degrees. The marks must be connected while checking the squareness of the starting bar . Using the level, we connect all the marks.

  Marks are connected using a level

  Focusing on the drawn lines, side and top dimensions are removed.

  Removing side dimensions

  Carry out cutting of the starting strips, based on the obtained dimensions, cutting their ends at 45 degrees. Install the internal starting bars. Fastening is carried out along the inner perimeter directly to the window frame.

  Cutting the starter bars

  Then measure the distance from the outer bar to the inner bar at the top of the opening. The corner is cut at 45 degrees.

  Corner cut at 45 degrees

  Install the corner on top of the slope.

  Installing the corner

  Place the plastic pieces into the starter strips.

  The last step is to install the tide.

  Window siding – step by step instructions

  You probably noticed that two similar houses with the same cladding can look completely different. Details play a decisive role in this case: window siding, for example, or the design of external corners. Therefore, designers and attentive homeowners approach the details very scrupulously. They carefully think over the design, select matching or, conversely, contrasting elements, thinking through the overall image and impression that they want to achieve.

  Today we will analyze how to trim windows with siding. Depending on whether slopes are provided, the installation instructions and the set of materials will differ. Let’s consider different options. But let’s start with the selection of material.

  Most homeowners choose window cladding to match the underlying finish. So, if you have chosen siding (vinyl or acrylic) or facade panels made of polypropylene, then it would be logical to give preference to polymer platbands and slopes. They are:

  • resistant to frost and sudden changes in temperature;
  • do not support combustion;
  • water resistant;
  • are not afraid of rust, mold and mildew;
  • are easy to install;
  • have a comparable thermal expansion with the main cladding, therefore, with sudden temperature changes, the facade will remain safe and sound; otherwise, the panels may fall out of their mounting or warp in hot weather.

  It will be correct to choose all materials for facade cladding, including window openings, from one manufacturer. So the kit will turn out not only in appearance. Panels, strips and profiles are maximally adapted to each other, this will greatly simplify and speed up the installation process.

  By choosing the entire set of panels and accessories from one manufacturer, you will greatly simplify your installation work.

  For covering the opening from manufacturers, you can choose platbands. In the Alta-Profil collection, for example, there are 2 types and 4 colors that go well with gutter systems, spotlights and a corner finishing system.

  Fig. 1. The color scheme of architraves, slopes and extensions “Alta-Profile”

  If the window is deepened, you will have to install not only the casing, but also the slope. For example, the Alta-Profile slope width is 200 mm. If this is not enough, you can use a special extension with a width of 190 mm in addition to it.

  It would seem that window trim is a simple matter. But it can be done in various ways and get completely different design effects. Here are a few examples of how windows can be finished outside for siding or facade panels:

  1. Trim openings.

  
  Fig. 2. To finish these windows, a window trim is used.

  2. Fit trim with slope.

  
  Fig. 3. Window cladding: casing + slope

  3. If the window is set too deep, use the trim + slope + extension set.
  4. An alternative for a wide sill: the siding or façade panels you chose for the main façade cladding. For example, Alta-Profil trims are connected both to slopes and to panels of the same production.
  5. Another option for a wide slope: siding or façade panels + outer corner, without architraves and slopes.

  
  Fig. 4. Instead of platbands, the same corner elements are used as on the walls of the house.

  6. You can also use a slope without a casing. For example, as a window sill. But in no case should a slope be used instead of a low tide.

  Slope can be used without casing. For example, as a window sill. But its use as a low tide is prohibited.

  To work with siding – whether it is window cladding or the entire facade – a standard set of tools is used:

  • building level
  • tape measure
  • elbow
  • pencil or chalk
  • knife or hacksaw (grinder can be used to cut panels)
  • special power saw with stand for trimming the ends of profiles, panels (if any)
  • screwdriver.

  A special tool can also come in handy – a punch, which is used to make hooks in the panels.

  
  Fig. 5. This is what a siding punch looks like.

  The only special tool that can be useful in working with siding is a punch, in order to make hooks in the panels.

  It is best to fasten all panels and planks with galvanized self-tapping screws, and with a wide hat (at least 8 mm in diameter).

  What exactly are you going to install?

  • Trim
  • slopes
  • trim corners
  • slope angles
  • extensions
  • j-profiles
  • start profiles
  • finishing strips
  • window strips
  • outside corners
  • siding or facade panels
  • ebbs.

  For different homeowners, the set may vary in accordance with design decisions, architectural specifications of the building and the chosen technique for facing the opening.

  Consider three classic options and the necessary set of materials for each of them.

  	Slope width	Window cladding material options
  one	The window is flush with the wall	J-profile + trim
  2	200 mm or less	1) J-profile + casing + slope 2) J-profile + slope 3) Finishing bar + slope 4) Finishing strip + casing + slope
  3	Over 200 mm	1) J-profile + casing + slope + extension 2) Finishing plank + platband + slope + dobor 3) J-profile + siding panels (facade panels) + outer corner

  If you have arched windows, the work will become much more complicated. You need to give the opening a shape, for this you can try:

  1. Special flexible J-profile.
  2. Plain J-profile, notched to give it the desired break angles.
  3. Plain J-profile, heated and gently bent to the desired angle.

  
  Fig. 6. One of the design options for arched windows.

  The last option must be done very carefully so as not to overheat the profile (otherwise it will start to melt). If not warmed up, it will not bend, but break. Therefore, it is better to entrust such work to professionals. Or stock up on spare profiles – for training. But then finishing the window of the house with siding will cost a little more than the initial calculation.

  When you have chosen what materials and how you will use, you need to calculate their quantity. Sheathing the window with siding is performed along the perimeter of the opening.

  To calculate the number of platbands, you need to calculate the perimeter of the opening, divide by the length of one platband and add 15% for trimmings.

  To find out the required amount of materials for the slope, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach slope of the window, sum up, divide by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone slope (or siding panel, if you decide to clad the slopes with it) and add 15%.

  As a rule, our windows are symmetrical, respectively, the areas of vertical and horizontal slope surfaces should be equal in pairs. But in practice, things are different. Therefore, it is better to measure all 4 slope walls.

  The work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Preparatory stage.

  If the house is not new, you need to remove the previous window trim elements and carefully inspect the openings. It is better to repair even small cracks – otherwise they may increase over time, but you will not see this under the cladding. For a small crack, you can use putty, for deeper ones – plaster. When it dries, the surface must be primed.

  If the house is new, this step can be skipped.

  • Installing the purlin.

  If the window clearance allows, the slopes are made in the same way and simultaneously with the entire facade. The correct technology assumes the presence of a ventilation gap between the wall and the cladding, insulation and, of course, battens and panels. But most often the width of the opening is slightly larger than the width of the windows themselves, and there is nowhere to roam. What to do?

  Option number 1. Choose a thinner insulation.

  Option number 2. Refuse to insulate the opening.

  Option number 3. Reduce the size of the ventilation gap.

  There is a fourth option, but we strongly do not recommend it. Sometimes installers refuse even the crate, and the panels are mounted on liquid nails or screwed directly to a wooden wall.

  What can be the crate? Wooden, metal or polymer. It would be most reasonable to give preference to the same option that you have chosen for the entire facade.

  Note. For metal siding, the best option is a metal crate, and for polymer siding, a polymer one.

  Mount the batten profiles at an angle of 90 degrees to the panels. If the latter will be installed horizontally, mount the profiles vertically. Accordingly, if the panels are vertical, the crate will be horizontal.

  Further actions depend on the availability and width of the slope.

  
  Fig. 7. Trimming of platbands when sheathing a window without a slope.

  Algorithm of actions if the window is flush with the wall:

  1. j-profile installation.

  You need to mount it along the window 0.5 cm from the box.

  2. Trim preparation.

  
  Fig. 8. So you need to cut the parts so that they fit on the facade.

  Measure the required length of platbands. This is the length of the opening plus two widths of the casing itself. Trim the bottom trim diagonally (45 degree angle) at both ends. For side platbands, such an angle should only be obtained from above. If you happen to be the owner of a special saw with a stand, great. She’ll come in handy.

  Cut the top trim at a 90 degree angle. Its inner part only needs to be partially cut and bent down. Through this bend, water during precipitation will drain into the side elements, and not under the cladding.

  Cut the inner side of the side and bottom trim so that they fit with the top and side trim, respectively.

  Plastic panels and profiles expand in hot weather. Therefore, when cutting them, be sure to provide a gap (depending on the season, it can be from 3 to 5 mm).

  3. Trim installation.

  First of all, the lower one is installed, then the side ones, and lastly, the upper platband. Screw them with screws to the crate. Fix in j-profile. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click.

  If this is your case, do the work at the same time that you set the outside and inside corners while cladding the entire façade with siding or façade panels.

  Sheathing of windows without a slope is performed at the stage of installing the outer and inner corners, the connecting strip before installing the siding.

  
  Fig. 9. Using a window trim for window decoration.

  Consider another option: windows with a slope of no more than 200 mm. In this situation, the exterior window trim with siding can be performed according to the following algorithm:

  1. Drainage installation.

  It is necessary to carefully measure the place where the ebb will be placed before cutting it off. To do this, measure the width of the slope at the window frame and at the edge of the window sill. The width of the tide should be 2-5 more than the width of the slope.

  According to the measurements taken, you need to cut the ebb. And install it by screwing it to the frame.

  2. Mounting J-profile.

  Traditionally, it is installed along the window opening.

  3. Preparing window trims.

  Measure the desired length of the window trims.

  The top bar is cut so that its side parts do not overlap the ends of the profile. The plank seems to lie on the side, but does not rest tightly against them, taking into account the gaps for thermal expansion.

  The lower near-window bar also rests on the side bars, but it is not cut to the end, but is cut and bent upwards, beyond the side bars.

  4. Installation of window trims.

  Start by installing the bottom and top rails, and then move on to the side rails. All of them are fixed to the J-profile and the crate.

  When the slopes are large enough, they can be perceived as small fragments of the wall and clad in the same way as the entire facade – with siding or facade panels. The technology in this case is identical to the classic siding installation technology. It can be described by the following algorithm:

  1. Drain is installed. So, as described above.
  2. A finishing strip or J-profile must be mounted along the window frame.
  3. An outer corner is fixed along the opening from the outside.
  4. Siding or facade panels are cut to the required size.
  5. They must be installed and fixed between the j-profile (or finish bar) and the outer corner.
  6. For the design of the corners of the slopes, an internal corner or 2 j-profiles connected to each other is used.

  As you can see, the work is small, painstaking and responsible. Therefore, finishing windows with siding from the outside with their own hands for many craftsmen is the most difficult (read – unloved). It is easy to make a mistake here. Therefore, be guided by the rule: measure seven times – cut one. Do not forget about important nuances:

  1. Polymer siding (vinyl or acrylic) expands in summer and contracts in winter. Never mount panels and strips end to end. Otherwise, in summer they can be covered with waves, and in winter they can fall out of their mounts. The size of the gap, respectively, depends on the air temperature during installation. In summer, 3 mm is enough, in winter it is better to leave a gap of 5-8 mm.
  2. Self-tapping screws must only be screwed into the mounting holes provided in the panels. If you cut them off, use a punch to make new ones in the right place. Do not just screw the screws into the body of the panel – again, it can be damaged during thermal expansion.
  3. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the center of the perforation, at right angles to the panel or lath. Tighten them all the way, and then do half a turn back – this is also an important nuance associated with thermal expansion.
  4. Some craftsmen recommend using sealants when lining windows. It’s not worth doing. Any rigid fixation threatens to damage the panels.

  Most siding manufacturers have their own installation nuances. They may differ depending on the collection of panels. Therefore, it is important to read the instructions carefully.