Cement refacing: Concrete Resurfacing – How to Resurface Concrete

Concrete Resurfacing – How to Resurface Concrete

How to resurface concrete that is old, ugly and in need of a makeover
Updated February 2, 2021

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Concrete resurfacing is a way to make old concrete look new again. A concrete coating is applied over the existing surface, offering a variety of color, texture and pattern options. This type of decorative refinishing can be done on driveways, patios, pool decks and even indoor floors.

Find contractors: Concrete resurfacing near me

Resurfacing Information

Stamped Overlays
Learn how texture can be added to an overlay with stamping mats or other tools.

Pool Deck Resurfacing
Discover the best pool deck coating for your project.

Concrete Crack Repair
Learn how to fix minor cracks in concrete with a patch.

Driveway Repair
See how damaged and unsightly driveways can be repaired with resurfacing, engraving, slabjacking and more.

Resurfacing Patios
Get information and design ideas for transforming existing patios with a cement-based overlay or microtopping.

Resurfacing Products
Find products that can be used to permanently cover up surface imperfections in existing concrete.

ON THIS PAGE

Use this table of contents to jump ahead:

• Replace or resurface?
• Concrete resurfacing options
• Does concrete resurfacing last?
• Decorative resurfacing ideas
• Preparing concrete for resurfacing
• How to resurface concrete
• Before and after pictures
• Other ways to make existing concrete better

REPLACE OR RESURFACE?

Conventional wisdom holds that old concrete must be torn out and replaced to improve the look. But there are many repair options available that will save you money, conserve resources, and eliminate disposal problems.

Resurfacing old concrete is perfect for:

• Fixing cracks
• Addressing discoloration
• Hiding surface imperfections
• Updating outdated finishes
• Covering unsightly concrete

Completely resurfacing concrete with an overlay is one way to upgrade the look, and you can choose from a wide variety of color and pattern options. If your concrete is in good condition but just needs a facelift, you can also stain, stencil or engrave it to improve the appearance. Here, we tell you all you need to know about restoring existing concrete, including procedures, application techniques, and decorative options.

Concrete Resurfacing – Skimcoat Overlay Application
Time: 07:31

What is an acceptable surface to be resurfaced?

Small plastics shrinkage cracks or crazing cracks can be covered by the polymer prime coat and base coat of the resurfacing material.

Larger cracks must be repaired. See Is it worth fixing

In any case, the underlying concrete for a resurfacing project must be sound. It is not feasible to resurface concrete that is heaving, has severe cracks, or is damaged due to freeze/ thaw damage. Resurfacing will not solve underlying soil problems.

Read about types of repairs that can be done to concrete: Basics of concrete repair and troubleshooting

CONCRETE RESURFACING OPTIONS

When resurfacing concrete, you can get any look you want. Here are some popular options:

• Stamped concrete overlays
• River rock or pebble coating
• Cool deck finishes
• Epoxy coatings with color flakes or metallic pigments (garages)
• Spray down texture coatings
• Broom finish applications
• Integral or topically applied color
• Stenciled patterns or hand carved designs

DOES CONCRETE RESURFACING LAST?

If you use a high-quality resurfacing product and have it professionally installed, you can expect it to last 10 years or more. Some contractors have even seen resurfacing last 25 years! But if you go with a DIY resurfacing kit from a big box store, they don’t last as long.

Proper cleaning, maintenance and protection go a long ways to making your new surface long-lasting. Make sure to have your concrete sealed, and then reseal as needed.

DECORATIVE CONCRETE RESURFACING IDEAS

There are a variety of decorative overlay options to cover concrete driveways, pool decks, patios, parking areas, and almost any other concrete surface.

Before
After

Whether you’d like to restore your outdoor concrete or bring new life to the inside of your home with a decorative floor overlay, start by looking at photos to see what you like.

Popular resurfacing projects:

• Pool deck resurfacing
• Driveway repair and resurfacing
• Patio resurfacing
• Garage floor resurfacing

A wide variety of colors are available and flagstone, fan, brick, random stone, and other patterns can be chosen.

Find more info on: Stamping Concrete or Coloring Concrete

Borders are often resurfaced with a different pattern than the interior of the slab surface- providing bold highlights.

PREPARING CONCRETE FOR RESURFACING

The most critical factor when covering concrete with an overlay is to prepare the substrate properly. Overlays are designed to adhere tenaciously to existing concrete. But they must have a clean, solid base to grasp on to. That’s why overlooking the prep work, or not doing the job thoroughly, is the most common cause of overlay delamination and failure.

Concrete Coatings of Illinois (Before)

Concrete Coatings of Illinois (After)

The basic steps in surface preparation include:

• Cleaning the concrete to remove all substances that could inhibit the ability of the overlay to bond, such as dirt, oil and grease. It’s also necessary to strip away any coatings, sealers or paints that may have been applied to the concrete.
• Removing any unsound concrete, such as minor spalling, scaling or delamination, down to solid concrete.
• Filling active cracks so they don’t mirror through to the overlay. Typically any cracks equal to or wider than the width of a credit card will require repair. (See steps in repairing cracks for a concrete resurfacing job.)
• Profiling, or roughening, the concrete surface to improve the “grip” of the overlay.

Using a machine that mechanically abrades the concrete, such as a grinder or shotblaster, is one of the most effective ways to prepare concrete substrates for resurfacing. This equipment not only removes most contaminants and unsound concrete, it will also leave behind a roughened surface profile. (Read more about proper surface preparation procedures and equipment.)

Clearly, this is a simple overview. The procedures will vary depending on the condition and age of the concrete and the surface preparation guidelines recommended by the overlay manufacturer. This is a job best left to a professional who will be able to assess the condition of your existing concrete and determine the scope of work required to ensure good overlay bonding and performance.

HOW TO RESURFACE CONCRETE – STEP BY STEP GUIDE

Here’s a pictorial overview of preparing concrete for resurfacing with Ultra Surface Polymer:

CONCRETE RESURFACING BEFORE & AFTER PICTURES

Check out these examples of restored and resurfaced concrete work:

Before

After

Hotel Pool Deck Gets a New Surface

Restoring this indoor pool deck only took Travis Winters, the owner of Nebraska Concrete Coatings, five days. The hotel manager wanted to improve the appearance of the pool area to increase guest satisfaction and reduce the amount of maintenance required to keep it looking good. The existing deck was stained and rough on bare feet. The concrete was ground down, acid washed, neutralized and power washed. Then cracks were repaired and a skim coat applied. A diamond pattern and brick border were taped off and colored to create a decorative look.

Learn more about this project: Hotel Pool Deck Resurfacing

Before

After

Concrete Overlay Transforms an Ugly Entryway

There’s nothing worse than an entryway that is unattractive and unsafe. For this home, Barry Fisher of Unique Concrete knew exactly how to solve the problem. After the tiles were removed and the underlying concrete prepared, a 1 ½-inch layer of unbonded reinforced concrete was applied. The fresh concrete was then stamped and hand chiseled to recreate the look of natural stone and tile. There are no visible control joints because the concrete is heavily reinforced with wire mesh.

Get the full story: Concrete Overlay Transforms an Ugly Entryway

OTHER WAYS TO MAKE EXISTING CONCRETE BETTER

Resurfacing isn’t the only option for transforming existing concrete. Below is a list of decorative procedures and application techniques that you should also consider.

• Cleaning Concrete
• Staining Concrete
• Scoring & Sawcutting Patterns
• Engraving Concrete

Resurfacing a Concrete Patio with Decorative Coatings

Information and design ideas for resurfacing existing patios
Updated April 3, 2020

SUNDEK of San Antonio in San Antonio, TX

Concrete patios with minor damage, but in otherwise good condition, can be transformed with concrete resurfacing. Instead of starting over with a new patio, you can upgrade its appearance and strength with a cement-based overlay.

Find patio contractors near me

Your resurfaced concrete patio can be stamped, stained, or stenciled and have color added. A professional contractor can determine if your surface is a good candidate, as well as make it look like wood, brick or stone with a combination of different colors and patterns.

WHAT IS THE BEST CONCRETE PATIO COATING?

Types of Overlay Systems
Time: 02:24
Compare types of systems and learn which one is right for your patio project.

Concrete patio coatings come in a variety of options and should be chosen based on the type of work you need done.

• Patio paint is the least expensive option for bringing color to your patio. It does not handle wear and tear as well as other options and will need to be replaced more often.
• Epoxy coatings protect your surface from water and can handle some wear and tear. This coating can also bring a bold color palette to your surface.
• Stamped concrete overlays add color, pattern and texture to your patio, while also enhancing the durability and strength of the surface.
• Microtoppings are a thin layer of cement that gives your concrete a new canvas for decorative ideas. Some even come pre-tinted for an easy change in color.

PATIO FINISHES FOR EXISTING CONCRETE

If you are looking to add an element of your own personality to your patio, there are a variety of options available. You can use color, patterns, textures, or even borders to take your design to the next level.

• Colors – bring a realistic look to your patio with popular earth tones
• Patterns – stamp your patio to resemble natural materials like wood or stone
• Stencils – use stencils to create logos and graphics on your patio
• Borders – introduce a cost-effective design with a contrasting color or pattern

HOW TO RESURFACE A CONCRETE PATIO

The are the steps required in the resurfacing process:

1. Repair – fix cracks in concrete patio with sealer or filler
2. Clean – power wash and sweep away debris
3. Prep – grind your surface for the overlay to bond better
4. Mix – combine overlay components and add grit additive or coloring agents
5. Apply – spread overlay onto area to be refinished
6. Seal – add a protective coating that will keep your new patio looking great

HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

The cost of resurfacing varies on the detail and size of your surface. It is a more cost-effective option than removing the existing concrete and pouring a new slab. A new pour patio can cost anywhere from $3 – $15, or more, per sq. ft. depending on the size and detail of the design that is being installed. Resurfacing costs between $3 and $10 per sq. ft., making it a budget friendly way to get the look and feel of a new patio.

PATIO RESURFACING IDEAS

Concrete patio makovers

Envision Concrete in Escondido, Calif.

Patio Overlay Replicates Reclaimed Lumber

How do you put a fresh finish on an existing concrete patio, yet make it look worn and weathered? For these homeowners in Escondido, Calif., the solution was a stamped concrete overlay replicating weathered wood and brick, resulting in a new surface with a naturally distressed look.

Suncoast Concrete Coatings Inc. in San Diego

Gray Microtopping and Glass Enhance a Concrete Patio

When resurfacing this patio with a charcoal-gray microtopping added drama while making the surface easier to clean and maintain. The dark gray made the perfect backdrop for the ocean-blue glass tile that runs like rivulets through the patio and encircle a fire bowl.

Floor Strength in Signal Hill, CA

Faux Limestone Overlay

The balcony and landing overlooking this residential swimming pool in Santa Ana, Calif., was falling apart. Covered by stone that was too heavy, it was experiencing structural damage and waterproofing failure. The solution was to replace the stone with a lightweight cement-based overlay that matched the limestone pool deck below.

Table Mountain Creative Concrete in Wheat Ridge, Colo.

Decorative Patio Overlay Doubles the Pleasure

Not many homeowners are fortunate enough to have patio decks on both the upper and lower levels of their home. Yet this wonderful amenity can also pose a design dilemma if you want both decks to look the same but they are built of different materials.

That was the case these homeowners, whose newly installed upper deck is wood-frame construction with plywood decking while the existing patio slab directly beneath it is cast-in-place concrete. A waterproof cement-based overlay system suitable for installation over both wood and concrete was used to give both decks coordinating decorative surfaces identical in pattern and color.

Unique Concrete in West Milford, N.J.

Concrete Overlay Transforms an Ugly Entryway and Patio

This home’s tile-covered entryway steps and adjoining patio had clearly seen better days. Not only were the tiles starting to delaminate and spall, they also became slippery and hazardous when wet. Looking for an economical solution to restore the patio and improve its curb appeal, the owners installed an unbonded reinforced concrete overlay that was stamped and hand chiseled to replicate the look of natural stone. See the before-and-after photos.

For more information:
Decorative Concrete Overlays
When to Use an Overlay
Resurfacing Concrete
Concrete Patio Surface Options

Stamped Concrete Overlays & Resurfacing

How to resurface existing concrete with a stampable concrete overlay
Updated March 25, 2020

A stamped overlay offers all the aesthetic benefits of conventional stamped concrete but is applied over existing concrete. Stamped concrete overlays allow you to duplicate the beauty and texture of natural stone, brick, slate, wood, and other materials without having to replace your concrete.

A stamped overlay can be used indoors or outdoors to recreate the look of natural stone, brick, slate, or even wood.

Find contractors: Concrete resurfacing near me

CAN YOU DO STAMPED CONCRETE OVER OLD CONCRETE?

Stamped concrete overlays can be used on new or existing concrete and on interior or exterior surfaces. They can even be applied to walls and other vertical surfaces. They are especially popular for refreshing the appearance of existing driveways, patios, walkways, pool decks, and floors.

Before opting for a stamped overlay, consult a professional to determine if your concrete can be resurfaced successfully. If the concrete is in bad shape, with large cracks or severe settlement, resurfacing may not be a viable option.

Stampable Overlay Application
Time: 06:23
Bob Harris demonstrates the application of a stampable overlay over existing concrete.

Stampable Overlay Coverage Rates
Time: 01:07
Learn how thickness of overlay application impacts the final square footage.

HOW TO STAMP EXISTING CONCRETE

A stamped overlay will be durable and easy to maintain if applied properly. In order for the overlay to adhere successfully, you’ll need to prepare the existing surface by cleaning it thoroughly, repairing any cracks, and profiling (which roughens the surface and helps the overlay bond to the concrete).

The overlay mix is usually applied by a gauge rake (a tool with an adjustable depth gauge for achieving a uniform topping thickness), and then imprinted with stamping mats or texturing skins. Overlay thicknesses range from 1/4 to 3/4 inch, depending on the depth of the imprint.

Texturing Stampable Overlays
Time: 05:45
See how to add texture to an overlay using texture skins and stamp mats.

Is Your Stampable Overlay Ready to Stamp?
Time: 01:47
Learn how to tell if your stampable overlay is ready to stamp or texture.

STAMPED CONCRETE OVERLAY COST

A stamped concrete overlay is at the higher end of the overlay products, which can range from $3-$10 per square foot, installed. Labor costs depend on the market rates in your area, as well as the size and detail of your design. Generally speaking, the smaller the surface, the higher the labor cost might be. Some contractors may even charge a flat fee for small projects.

See more detailed information about overlay cost.

IS A STAMPED OVERLAY A DIY-FRIENDLY PROJECT?

While it is possible to complete some concrete projects as a DIY, we recommend hiring a professional. You can find a resurfacing contractor near you in our directory.

An overlay acts in a similar fashion to new concrete, in that it has a limited time available for it to be stamped. A contractor can complete the job on time, without error, and with a final finish you will enjoy for years to come.

Realted: Is Stamped Concrete a DIY Project?

DURABILITY OF STAMPED OVERLAYS

When applied properly, a stamped concrete coating should last for years. It will help add strength to an existing surface, while also updating the look. Much like a newly poured patio, your overlay will need to be sealed every few years to maintain its appearance and protect it from damage.

MORE IDEAS FOR STAMPED CONCRETE RESTORATION AND RESURFACING

If you already have a stamped concrete surface that is suffering from cracks, spalling, or settling it may be a candidate for restoration and resurfacing. Some refinishing options include:

New sealer

Every few years, depending on the amount of traffic, it is recommended to apply a new sealer. For a surface that is in good shape, this will refresh the look. Depending on the type of sealer used, it can enhance the color already installed on your surface, or even give you the opportunity to add color through a tinting additive. Sealers also come in different sheen levels, ranging from matte to high gloss.

Recoloring

Changing the color of your stamped concrete can be done with different types of stains, tints, or dyes. The coloring method you choose will give you a different amount of color.

Here is a quick guide to the color adjustment levels:

• For minor color adjustment use an impregnating stain or diluted acid stain
• For medium color adjustment use a full-strength acid stain, dye, or tinted sealer
• For complete color change use an acrylic or solid-color stain

Check out this Q&A about changing the color of a stamped concrete walkway.

Resurfacing

Applying a concrete overlay to an existing concrete surface, in good condition, will bring a new look, and feel. The overlay will work to fix minor cracking, and add strength and durability to the surface, while simultaneously giving you an opportunity to change the stamp pattern, color or finish.

Other Resources:

Stampable Overlay Trends: Excerpt from Concrete Overlays Today

Stamped Concrete Overlay Transforms an Ugly Entryway

Pattern and Design Options for Stamped Concrete

Find Exterior Concrete Resurfacing Supplies

Find Interior Overlay and Topping Supplies

Concrete Resurfacing Basics FAQs

If you have a concrete garage floor, driveway, sidewalk, or patio that is starting to show its age, you are left with two options: You can demolish and remove the old surface, prepare the base, and pour a new slab; or you can use a resurfacing process to restore the slab to its youthful appearance.

Sometimes a concrete slab is just too unstable or too badly damaged to make resurfacing possible. But when the problem is just superficial cracking, discoloring, or minor chipping or spalling, resurfacing is a very good option. It’s a project that just about anyone can tackle, and it’s a lot more affordable than replacing the concrete slab.Note, though, that resurfaced concrete likely won’t last as long as a brand new concrete surface, particularly outdoors in colder climates.

What Is Concrete Resurfacer?

There are lots of concrete mix products on the market—including mortars, repair patchers, fast-setting concrete mixes—and it can be hard to choose among them. Concrete resurfacer is a special cementitious product that blends ordinary Portland cement, fine sands, polymer modifiers, and other additives aimed at providing adhesion. Unlike other cement products, it is designed to be applied in very thin coats (no more than 1/2 inch thick), and its additives provide good adhesion to an existing slab.

Concrete resurfacer is a very strong product, rated for compressive strength of about 4,500 psi. This is actually stronger than the slab itself, so properly applied, resurfacing layers can be very durable.

Evaluating a Concrete Slab

Product instructions generally advise that resurfacing is a viable option if the slab has not cracked all the way through and when damage is limited to cosmetic issues. This can be hard to determine, but if the height of the slab is offset on adjoining sides of cracks, it is an indication that major heaving is occurring. Such a slab is probably not a good candidate for resurfacing. But a slab with small cracks, chips, and spalls where pieces of aggregate have come loose is an ideal candidate for resurfacing.

Buying Concrete Resurfacer

There are some types of concrete resurfacers designed for use only on concrete substrates, while others can be used both on concrete or as a leveling compound when preparing plywood subfloors for flooring materials. If you are fully resurfacing a concrete slab, make sure to use a resurfacer designed for the purpose, such as Flo-Coat Concrete Resurfacer from Sakrete, Concrete Resurfacer from Quickrete, or Re-Cap Resurfacer, also from Quickrete. This type of product will be clearly labeled as “concrete resurfacer” rather than “floor leveler.” You may also find both consumer-grade and commercial-grade products available; the commercial grades are designed to be more durable than the consumer grades.

Concrete resurfacer comes as a dry mix in 40-pound bags or 50-pound pails. A 40-pound bag typically covers 15 to 90 square feet, and you usually apply two or sometimes three coats.

Warning

Some homeowners try to do the job with ordinary mortar mix, which has a similar consistency to resurfacer and is much cheaper. But this does not work for very long, since mortar lacks the additives and bonding agents that allow resurfacer to adhere to the slab. Always invest in a true concrete resurfacer when renewing a concrete slab.

Preparation

Thorough preparation is the key to long-lasting results when resurfacing concrete. This preparation involves pressure-washing the slab, repairing significant damage using a quality concrete patch product, and removing any stains from oil, paint, or tree sap. Stains may seep through the resurfacing material unless they are removed prior to application.

Application Overview

The application of concrete resurfacer is quite an easy process. The dry powder is mixed with water to form a slurry, which is then spread over the concrete slab using a long-handled squeegee. Resurfacers are self-leveling, meaning that they don’t need to be worked extensively to create a level surface. They pour and spread easily, and your only real job is just to ensure that the resurfacer has been spread around the entire surface. You don’t have to worry about trowelling to a level surface, as you do when pouring a slab with new concrete.

Tip

If you are resurfacing a slab with expansion joints, don’t cover over the joints with resurfacer. Instead, cover the joints with duct tape to prevent the resurfacer from sticking to them.

Concrete resurfacer should not be applied in cold weather. Make sure that the current temperature is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and that the temperature will stay above 40 degrees for at least the next 24 hours. Also, work when the area is most shaded, or at least when the sun’s glare is at a minimum. Finally, make sure there is no rain in the forecast for at least 8 hours after application.

Concrete resurfacers are only available in one color—ordinary gray. But they can be tinted with colorants made specifically for concrete products. If you plan to resurface only part of a larger slab, be aware that it is hard to match colors. New concrete looks new, and old concrete looks old. If you really want to make the surface look new again, it’s best to plan on resurfacing all of it.

Most jobs require a second, and sometimes a third coat of resurfacer. The finish will be quite smooth, so you can add texture to the final coat by brushing it with a broom while it is still slightly wet.

How to Resurface Concrete

By

Jeff Beneke

Jeff Beneke

Jeff Beneke is a home renovation expert. A self-taught carpenter, cabinetmaker, electrician, and plumber, he has renovated two 19th-century farmhouses in upstate New York and a mid-20th-century house in Austin, Texas. He has written more than a dozen books related to home renovation, repair, and maintenance and contributed to another dozen.

Learn more about The Spruce’s
Editorial Process

Updated on 08/16/21

Chaiyaporn Baokaew / Getty Images

Project Overview

Compared to many home improvement and repair projects, resurfacing concrete is a relatively easy task that can be done with concrete resurfacing products available at any home improvement center or hardware store. Resurfacing is a good option when the surface of a concrete slab or structure is cosmetically marred but in otherwise good shape. Resurfacers will not correct deep cracking or heaving, but they can cover over routine flaking of a concrete surface or small pits due to spalling. A concrete slab that has been damaged by road salts, for example, can be renewed quite easily with a coating of resurfacer.

If you take the time to prepare properly, apply the resurfacer carefully according to manufacturer instructions, and allow the resurfacer plenty of time to cure, you’ll be rewarded with a garage floor, driveway, sidewalk, or patio that looks as good as new.

Concrete Resurfacing Products

The major manufacturers of concrete products, including Quickrete and Sakrete, all sell concrete resurfacing products. Usually, these consist of a blend of Portland cement, fine sands, polymer modifying compounds, and other additives that make the surfacer easy to apply and spread over existing concrete surfaces. They are intended to be spread in thin layers from 1/16 to 1/2 inch thick. These special mixtures are fairly expensive products, but in the right application, they can make a concrete slab look brand new.

Concrete resurfacing products are intended only for covering the surface of concrete and will serve to repair only the most superficial cracks and pits. For more substantial repairs, such as wide cracks or those that have slight vertical shifts, you will need to first repair the areas using a product that is specifically designed for patching, such as Sakrete’s Top ‘n Bond, and then follow up with a complete resurfacing treatment.

Before You Begin

It is critical that the concrete surface is cleaned of all loose debris. A strong spray from a garden hose and long-handled scrub brush may suffice, but a good pressure washing will provide better cleaning.

You should also remove any oil stains, paint, or tree sap from the concrete. If your efforts fail to remove the stain entirely, consider applying a sealer over the stain before resurfacing. If left unsealed, the stain will very likely bleed through the resurfacing layer.

It is important that expansion joints be protected when resurfacer is applied. Mask off these control joints with duct tape or weather stripping to prevent the resurfacer from filling them in.

Equipment / Tools

• Garden hose
• Power washer
• 5-gallon plastic bucket
• 1/2-inch drill and mixing paddle
• Long-handled squeegee
• Concrete edger
• Broom

Materials

• 20
  Bags of dry concrete resurfacer

1. Repair the Surface

   Concrete resurfacers should be viewed as cosmetic finishes, not repair products. When serious damage is widespread, resurfacing will mask the problems for only a short time. But if you have only minor cracks or pits in your surface, resurfacing can be effective, provided you first repair the damage with a product specifically formulated for patching.

   Patch any serious damage with another concrete patching product, and let it dry completely before proceeding to resurfacing.

2. Mix the Resurfacer

   For best results, mix and apply one bag of resurfacer at a time. One 40-pound bag will usually require six pints of water. Use warm water in cool temperatures, and cold water in warmer temperatures. At 73 degrees Fahrenheit, you will have about 20 minutes of working time before the resurfacer hardens.

   Pour the water into a clean 5-gallon plastic bucket, then empty the resurfacer into the bucket and mix for several minutes into a smooth, pourable consistency. Let the contents rest for a few minutes, and then mix it again. Add a little more water or resurfacer, if necessary, to create a pourable mix that has the consistency of syrup.

   Tip

   If desired, concrete coloring agents can be added to the mixture at this point, just before application. Make sure to use color agents that are compatible with the resurfacer; using products from the same manufacturer is a good idea.

3. Apply the Resurfacer

   Resurfacer needs to be applied to a moist surface so the concrete won’t draw moisture out of the resurfacer as it cures. Just before mixing and applying the resurfacer, give the slab a cooling spray with the hose and sweep off any standing water from the surface.

   The easiest method for applying concrete resurfacer is to pour a small amount on the surface, then immediately begin spreading it evenly with a light, long-handled squeegee. Resurfacer can also be applied with a trowel or brush.

   Work in segments of no more than about 144 square feet at a time. If possible, segment your work so that you are working to edges of control and expansion joints with each application.

   Where a second coat is necessary, let the surface dry for two to three hours, then apply a second coat following the same procedure. Most manufacturers recommend a second coat, but this is optional; your decision should be based on how well the first coat has covered small imperfections.

   Tip

   At the edges of the slab, you can create clean, professional-looking edges with a concrete edger, but only if you get to them within the first 10 to 15 minutes of application.

4. Scuff the Surface

   If the resurfacer is allowed to cure without any finishing touches, it will create a smooth surface. That’s often what you want in a garage. However, the smooth finish can be slippery when wet, which makes it less desirable on a driveway, sidewalk, or patio surface.

   To add some texture or “tooth” to the finish, use a long-handled broom to make full strokes across the surface. Plan to do this within five minutes of application, while the mix is still wet enough. Make sure all broom strokes are made in the same direction.

5. Allow the Resurfacer to Cure

   As concrete resurfacer cures, it hardens and becomes stronger. Wait about eight hours before walking on resurfaced concrete, and at least two days before driving on it.

   Resurfacer should be kept slightly moist while curing. Covering with plastic is only necessary to protect the surface from rain immediately after application, but the surface should be lightly misted with water once or twice a day for the first two days.

How to Resurface Damaged Concrete

When repairing and/or restoring cracks, chips, spalling or flaking in concrete driveways, patios, or sidewalks – before you bring in a big crew and ready-mix trucks to remove and replace the concrete, consider resurfacing it instead.

June 30, 2021

Ojas Arun Chaudhari, Ph.D.

The QUIKRETE Companies

Today, contractors are getting newly restored concrete open to foot traffic in eight hours and vehicle traffic in 24 hours at a fraction of the cost of replacing the surface. Yes, concrete will deteriorate, but contractors can bring it back to life by resurfacing.

The QUIKRETE Companies

As all contractors know, there are three indisputable facts about concrete: it’s gray, it gets hard and unfortunately, it will deteriorate over time. There are a variety of culprits including freeze-thaw cycles, vehicle traffic, or everyday wear-and-tear that cause driveway, patio, sidewalks, and other concrete surfaces to crack, chip, spall, and flake. When the inevitable happens, contractors can address the problem quickly, effectively, and affordably.

Before you bring in a big crew and ready-mix trucks to remove and replace the concrete, consider resurfacing it instead.

Why Resurface?

“I’ve also found that having a few bags (of resurfacer) on the truck can come in handy with unexpected jobsite concrete issues that need to be handled quickly. It’s definitely helped me keep clients happy on more than one occasion.”
—Thomas Werline, veteran contractor, finisher, mason

Resurfacing is a proven method of restoring the durability and appearance of dilapidated concrete by applying a thin layer of pre-blended, polymer-modified flowable mortar on top of an existing surface. Resurfacing concrete is a significantly less expensive than replacing it. It costs between $3.50 and $5.50 per square foot to break up, haul off and pour a new slab of concrete compared to only about 25 cents per square foot to resurface concrete. In addition, the resurfacing process is less labor-intensive and less disruptive than replacing concrete. Ultimately, resurfacing can produce a high volume of profitable concrete restoration jobs for contractors.

Contractor experience has shown that high-quality, well-formulated and properly applied resurfacers can extend the life of concrete for years. While a variety of factors contribute to the successful restoration of concrete including proper surface preparation and application (both addressed later), resurfacing gives contractors several clear and distinct advantages.

• Resurfacers eliminate the time, labor, and expense to remove existing concrete and pour a new slab.
• No special skills or training is required to apply a resurfacer.
• Concrete restored with resurfacer can be open to vehicle traffic in one to two days.
• Resurfacers can be applied in a variety of thicknesses making it viable for many types of restoration repairs.
• Beyond repair and restoration, resurfacers protect concrete to help minimize maintenance moving forward.
• Concrete restored with a resurfacer can be colored, stamped, and/or stained for added aesthetic value.

Veteran contractor, finisher, and mason, Thomas Werline of Orlando, Fla. has resurfaced concrete on residential and commercial jobs of all sizes across the U.S. from New Jersey to California during the past 45 years. “In general, the ability to make simple cosmetic improvements or perform full-scale restorations, depending on how thick the material is applied, makes resurfacing concrete invaluable. The use of a concrete resurfacer like the one from QUIKRETE has proven very beneficial to contractors like me, especially during the construction downturn ten years ago,” according to Werline.

Which Resurfacer Should You Use?

The long-term viability of the restored concrete is only as good as the resurfacer used for the job. Fortunately, new state-of-the-art polymer resin technology found in next-generation concrete resurfacers has established improved standards for bond strength, workability, and working time. For example, tensile pull tests found that concrete will actually break before its bond to QUIKRETE Re-Cap Concrete Resurfacer, which features a proprietary combination of additives that stabilize the polymer film to from a stable bond with the concrete surface. As a result, premium resurfacers allow contractors to finish more concrete restoration jobs faster and without worry of time-consuming and costly callbacks. Some other attributes contractors should consider when selecting a resurfacer include:

• The resurfacer should have a compressive strength at least equal to the concrete surface being restored (at minimum 4,000 psi at 28 days).
• The resurfacer should be enhanced with polymers additives to increase tensile bond strength to at least 400 psi in seven days.
• The resurfacer should have high-early strength exceeding 1,200 psi in one day so the concrete can be open to traffic quickly.
• The resurfacer should have minimal plastic and drying shrinkage to prevent cracking.

Surface preparation is the most critical step in successfully resurfacing concrete. Thoroughly cleaning the surface with 3,500 psi pressure washer to remove any deteriorated concrete opens up the pours in the concrete, which help creates a strong bond with the resurfacer.The QUIKRETE Companies

How to Resurface Concrete

Surface Preparation

Start by confirming that the concrete surface is structurally sound, void of cracks larger than 1/4-in. deep or wide, and that any necessary surface repairs are made. Surface preparation is the most critical step in successfully resurfacing concrete. It requires thoroughly cleaning the surface to include removing oil, grease, and other materials with acid, detergent, or bleach solution. That is followed by thoroughly cleaning the surface with a 3,500 psi pressure washer to remove any deteriorated concrete and to open up the pours in the concrete, which help create a strong bond with the resurfacer. It is essential that control joints and expansion joints be maintained while preparing the surface with weather-stripping tape.

Pour the resurfacer onto the concrete in one-foot wide strips and scrub the material around the surface with a long-handled squeegee. Use sufficient pressure to work the material into the surface pores and build to a nominal 1/8” thickness.The QUIKRETE Companies

Mixing, Application & Curing

Before placing the resurfacer, saturate the concrete with water and remove any standing water. 

Before placing the resurfacer, saturate the concrete with water and remove any standing water. The workability and long-term durability of a resurfacer depends on the water content, so follow the ratios recommended by the manufacture. A standard commercial-grade drill and paddle mixer is sufficient to mix a 40-lb. bag of resurfacer with water in a 5-gallon bucket for three to four minutes. In this quantity, a premium resurfacer has about 20 minutes of working time, which is plenty to cover 20 sq.ft at 1/4-in. thick or 90 sq.ft. as a skim coat.

For larger jobs, six to eight bags of resurfacer can be mixed in a mechanical mortar mixer, but a three to five-person crew will have to get it poured and finished in less than 30 minutes.  

Before placing the resurfacer, saturate the concrete with water and remove any standing water. Pour the resurfacer onto the concrete in one-foot wide strips and scrub the material around the surface with a long-handled squeegee. Use sufficient pressure to work the material into the surface pores and build to a nominal 1/8-in. thickness. For hard-to-reach corners and edges apply the resurfacer with a masonry brush. Avoid overworking the resurfacer.

Five minutes after applying the resurfacer, pull a concrete finIshing broom across the restored concrete perpendicular to traffic to provide a textured, non-skid surface. Most of the time, the first coat of resurfacer is sufficient to cover the existing concrete surface. However, if a second coat is required then allow the first coat to remain undisturbed until it can hold light foot traffic (for exact waiting time, refer to datasheet of the product) and then apply the second coat.

Resrufacer’s give contractors the ability to make simple cosmetic improvements or perform full-scale restorations, depending on how thick the material is applied.The QUIKRETE Companies

Once the restored concrete has hardened, spray with a gentle mist for 24 to 48 hours after applying the resurfacer to prevent plastic shrinkage cracks and premature stressing during the curing process. The appearance and durability of the restored concrete surface is sensitive to external environmental conditions especially to the rain thus protect the resurfaced area from rain for at least 8 hours after application.

One of Werline’s most recent projects was to renew an uneven, heavily soiled, and unattractive concrete deck utilized for a large waste container holding area at a Central Florida school: “When it was suggested to paint or stain the deck, I immediately recommended resurfacing the concrete. After aggressively cleaning off the heavily soiled areas to prepare the deck’s surface, the resurfacer went down fast and smooth. The final touch was finishing with a textured figure eight-swirl pattern to provide an attractive non-skid surface.”

One of Thomas Werline’s most recent projects was to renew an uneven, heavily soiled and unattractive concrete deck utilized for a large waste container holding area at a Central Florida school.The QUIKRETE Companies

Resurfacing Concrete Tips

It’s not possible to control external elements like rain, temperature, and humidity during a concrete restoration project using a resurfacer. However, steps can be taken to help achieve optimal workability, durability, color consistency, bond strength, and other performance characteristics.  

• Mix, apply, and finish resurfacer when the ambient and surface temperature is between 50º F and 90º F.
• Do not apply resurfacer in direct sunlight, or early in morning, or late in the afternoon.
• In hot temperatures saturate the concrete with cold water and cold temperatures saturate the concrete with hot water.
• Resurfacer applied in the cold conditions will cure darker due to longer retention of moisture.

Homeowners in suburban residential communities don’t want to be held hostage to ready mix trucks clogging up traffic while 300 concrete driveways are being removed and re-poured. Property managers at the local town center don’t want to explain to tenants why the parking lot can’t be used for a month because the new concrete has to fully cure. Today, contractors are getting newly restored concrete open to foot traffic in eight hours and vehicle traffic in 24 hours at a fraction of the cost of replacing the surface. Yes, concrete will deteriorate, but contractors can bring it back to life by resurfacing.

Werline adds, “I’ve also found that having a few bags (of resurfacer) on the truck can come in handy with unexpected jobsite concrete issues that need to be handled quickly. It’s definitely helped me keep clients happy on more than one occasion.”

About the author

Ojas Arum Chaudhari was a Research Scientist in the Product Development group at The QUIKRETE Companies. He currently works at the Research Institutes of Sweden, located in Stockholm, Sweden. 

Originally published November 2018.

The QUIKRETE Companies

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PLANITOP Repair & Finish (RASA & RIPARA) Non-shrink, fast setting, fine grained, thixotropic type cement mortar.

Applications

• Repair and protection of concrete
• Grouting and anchoring compounds
• Structural reinforcement
• Waterproofing
• Adhesives and sealants
• Additives for concrete
• Shotcrete concrete
• Tunneling
• Restoration and cladding

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Brief characteristics

Applications –
repair and protection of concrete /

Average consumption u/m2 at given layer thickness –
fifteen /

Minimum thickness mm –
3 /

Maximum thickness, mm –
40 /

Application methods –
manual /

Manufacturer –
MAPEI /

Related materials and equipment

Description

APPLICATION

• Quick repair of damaged areas of concrete structures (corner edges of beams, pillars, partitions, cornices, concrete elements of balconies and protruding decorative elements of building facades).
• Leveling vertical and ceiling concrete surfaces in a short time.
• Quick repair of imperfections such as pits, cavities, chips before painting.
• Elimination of defects in technological seams.
• Seal of mounting holes after dismantling the formwork.
• Repair of concrete surfaces in constant contact with water.

DESCRIPTION

Planitop Repair & Finish (Planitop) is a ready-to-use material in the form of a dry mix, created on the basis of special hydraulic binders, graded sand, synthetic resins and special additives, contains polymer fibers.
When mixed with water, forms a plastic, highly adhesive cementitious slurry that is easily applied with a trowel or trowel to vertical and overhead surfaces.
Designed for repairing defects and leveling concrete surfaces. The maximum aggregate size is 0.4 mm.
Application thickness in one layer from 3 to 40 mm.
When cured, Planitop Repair & Finish is a medium strength concrete, over 18 MPa, with high adhesion to steel and concrete, no shrinkage, thermal resistance to freeze/thaw cycles through adhesion according to EN 1542, high water resistance.
Planitop Repair & Finish meets the requirements of EN 1504-9(“Products and systems for the protection and repair of concrete structures: definitions, requirements, quality control and conformity assessment. General principles for the use of products and systems”) and the minimum requirements of EN 1504-3 (“Structural and non-structural repair”) for non-structural class mortars R2, as well as the requirements of the EN 1504-2 standard for coatings (C) in accordance with the MC and IR principles (“Systems for the Protection of Concrete Surfaces”).

RECOMMENDATIONS

• Do not apply Planitop Repair & Finish on a smooth surface: roughen the surface beforehand.
• Do not apply Planitop Repair & Finish on dry substrates (the substrate must be saturated with water).
• Do not add cement or additives to Planitop Repair & Finish.
• Do not add water to the mix to improve workability once setting has begun.
• Do not use Planitop Repair & Finish for repairs using a plastering station, as setting of the product starts after about 30 minutes.
• Do not leave bags of Planitop Repair & Finish in the sun before use.
• Do not use Planitop Repair & Finish at temperatures below +5°C.
• Do not use Planitop Repair & Finish if the bag is damaged or has been previously opened.
• Do not use Planitop Repair & Finish to precisely fix elements in place (use Mapefill).

PROFESSIONAL USE MATERIAL.

CAUTION

The instructions and recommendations contained in this manual reflect the depth of our experience with this material, but should be considered only as general guidelines, subject to refinement and practical experience. Therefore, before a material is widely used for a particular purpose, it should be checked for adequacy for the intended use, taking full responsibility for the consequences associated with the use of this material.

FOR DETAILED INFORMATION, REFER TO TECHNOLOGICAL MANUAL

• Technical documentation
  • Datasheet Planitop Rasa & Ripara
• Normative documents
  • Construction chemicals MAPEI
  • Letter of explanation from SIC CONSTRUCTION on frost resistance of materials MAPEI

All rights reserved. Copying or using part of the text from the site without the written permission of the administration of LLC “EC” PROMATEKH “is prohibited. (c) 2008-2022

Cement mortar proportions – how to make your own cement mortar for the foundation (consumption, proportions)

When pouring the foundation, the main building material is cement. The reliability of the entire structure depends on its quality.

What is cement and its types

Cement is an artificial substance with astringent properties. It is obtained industrially by grinding clinker, gypsum and various additives.

Depending on the characteristics of the production and composition of cement, several types of it are distinguished. For the construction of foundations, the following types of cement are used:

• 
  waterproof non-shrink
  
  – has waterproofing properties, withstands heavy loads;
• 
  expanding
  
  – increases in volume, filling all the holes. Used in the construction of pile foundations of buildings;
• 
  Portland cement
  
  – loose building material obtained by grinding clinker and containing various additives in its composition.

Due to its properties, the latter type is most widely used. It is widely used in capital construction, the production of general-purpose reinforced concrete structures, as well as in pouring various types of foundations. The composition of this type of cement contains various additives that determine the additional properties of this material. Among the most commonly used types are:

• sulphate-resistant – has increased resistance to salts. It is irreplaceable at construction in places of high occurrence of ground waters;
• plasticized – due to additives, it has increased plasticity, which allows to reduce the water content of the mixture. This gives the foundation increased frost resistance and strength;
• straining – masses from it quickly harden and quickly seize. This allows you to speed up construction work, but negatively affects the reliability of the structure.

How to prepare a solution

Depending on the qualities that the mixture should have, its composition may change. Despite this, the main components are constant:

• cement is the main binding material;
• sand – mainly used river or alluvial;
• crushed stone – a filler that significantly increases the strength of the base of the building;
• water is the element with which the dry mixture is closed.

In addition to these materials, various additives, such as plasticizers or hardeners, can be added to the composition.

To mix the solution yourself, water with additives is poured into the prepared container. Cement pre-mixed with sand is poured into it – as much as necessary in accordance with the brand being prepared. The mass is kneaded with a shovel to a uniform consistency of medium density. After that, crushed stone is introduced into it, thoroughly mixed and the solution is ready for pouring. It’s good if you have the opportunity to use a concrete mixer – it will not only reduce work time and significantly reduce labor costs, but also increase the strength of the finished mixture due to better mixing of the ingredients. It is necessary to strictly observe the ratio of consumables, having previously calculated how many building materials will be required.

The proportions of the components and the consumption of cement per 1m3

The classic version of concrete is considered to follow the following proportions:

• 1 part of the main binder;
• 2 part sand;
• 2.5 pieces of rubble.

This ratio allows you to get concrete grade M450, which is characterized by increased strength. Given the proportions of consumption of building materials, 400 kg of cement (8 bags of 50 kg each), 800 kg of sand and one ton of crushed stone will be needed to produce the mortar.

If the foundation does not experience a load of 450 kg / cm2, then it is advisable to use concrete of lower grades. Recommend the following proportions of consumption of materials when mixing lightweight concrete:

• M100: cement – 220 kg (5 bags of 50 kg each), sand – 0.6 m3, crushed stone – 0.8 m3;
• M200: cement – 280 kg (6 bags of 50 kg each), sand – 0.5 m3, crushed stone – 0.8 m3;
• M300: cement – 380 kg (8 bags of 50 kg each), sand – 0.45 m3, crushed stone – 0.8 m3.

To determine the consumption of bulk components for the preparation of 1 m3 of solution, it is necessary to gradually add ingredients during the first batch, accurately taking into account their consumption. To determine the volume, 10 l buckets are traditionally used. Suppose you need to dilute the solution with a ratio of 1:4. Output in mixing containers or concrete mixer 10 buckets (0.1 cubic meters). First, pour 2 buckets of crushed stone (0. 02 cubic meters) into the concrete mixer, pour 5 liters of water (0.0005 cubic meters). With constant stirring, add 3.5 buckets of sand (0.035 cubic meters) and 9l of cement (0.009 cubic meters). All ingredients are mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If necessary, it is necessary to add building materials, adhering to the ratio, fixing all actions. After mixing is completed, you can calculate how many and what ingredients were required in order to dilute 1 cube of the solution. Based on this ratio, it is necessary to calculate the consumption of ingredients per 1 m3 of concrete mass.

Before you make a purchase of the main binder, you should accurately calculate how much it will be needed, given the packaging in 50 kg bags. Keeping in mind the proportions, other bulk materials are also ordered.

To make the pouring of the foundation, you need to carry out a lot of calculations. Any mistake will affect the quality of the foundation of the building, endanger the entire structure, and shorten its life. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate very accurately how many bulk building materials will be needed to build the basement. It’s hard to do it on your own. Therefore, it is advisable to seek help from professional builders who will not only choose the optimal ratio of ingredients, but also help save time and save your strength when pouring the foundation.

You can order the services of workers on the YouDo website by placing an ad there. Indicate in it the work that needs to be done, its volume, price for execution and other parameters. Yudu is a convenient service for finding artists that will make your life easier.

Concrete repair instructions and tips | 5domov.ru

Surprisingly, concrete cannot be repaired with concrete – coarse aggregate will not provide good adhesion between the patch and the damaged area.

Contents

1. Concrete repair materials
2. Concrete Repair Tips
3. Repair of wide cracks
4. Repair of loose concrete
5. Bonding step corner
6. Step angle restoration
7. Repair of broken step edge

Concrete repair materials

For concrete repair use:

• cement slurry,
• cement mortar with binder,
• epoxy or polyester resin mortar (or proprietary concrete repair mortar).

Concrete Repair Tips

Before placing any of these materials, remove concrete residue, dirt and dust, and water from the damaged area. If the repair is made with cement mortar, the site must be kept wet for several hours, preferably all night. If you are using a synthetic resin mortar or a proprietary concrete patching agent, follow the instructions. When repairing the edge of a concrete slab, install formwork.

Cracks up to 3 mm wide repair with slurry or a proprietary product. Mixtures produced in cartridges can be used to fill cracks with a syringe. With a liquid cement paste or a ready-made mixture, which is available in metal cans, fill the cracks with a spatula and smooth the surface flush with the edges of the crack.

Wider cracks or loose concrete Repair similarly with a proprietary product or a mixture of 1 part Portland cement or alumina cement, 3 parts sand and water to which a binder such as polyvinyl acetate (PVA) or synthetic latex (alumina cement) has been added. differs from Portland cement or just cement in its chemical composition and increased hardening rate). If a thin layer of concrete has peeled off, you need to deepen the surface of the concrete by 10-15 mm and use a synthetic resin mortar for repair, which allows you to get a reliable patch, but is expensive.

Let the slurry or mortar patch cure for 2-3 hours, then wet it with water for 3-4 days. Cover solutions with Portland cement with plastic wrap, attaching it around the edges with stones; solutions with aluminous cement are covered with bags and often sprayed with water. Other concrete repair compounds are cured in accordance with their instructions.

Repair of wide cracks

1. Removal of damaged concrete. Put on safety goggles and use a chisel to cut the concrete in the damaged area to a depth of about 20 mm.

2. Edge finishing. To ensure a strong bond and to prevent the grout from rising, chisel off the edges of the damaged area with a chisel to create an inward bevel (cut-in). Wear protective goggles when working. Remove all dust and debris. Wet the area (you can use a hose) and keep it moist all night.

3. Surface treatment. Thoroughly mix 1 part cement to 3 parts sand and water with a binder such as PVA or synthetic latex until a paste is obtained that is easy to work with a trowel. Let the mixture stand for now. Brush the area to be repaired with a binder diluted with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions and proceed to step 4. The repair must be completed before the binder dries.

4. Filling the crack with grout. Fill the crack with mortar, taking care to get the mortar into all corners of the crack. Level the mortar with a steel trowel until it begins to harden, then run the trowel back and forth several times, lifting its front edge (below). Keeping the solution is described on the previous page.

Repair of loose concrete

Use of mortar with synthetic resin. If a large area is damaged, break loose concrete with a sledgehammer without force. The sledgehammer must fall onto the concrete under its own gravity. Remove loose concrete from small damaged areas with a chisel. Don’t forget to wear glasses. Remove dust and debris with a wire brush.

Prepare the surface of the site and prepare the mortar according to the resin manufacturer’s instructions. Hang the solution with a steel trowel and level it well, especially along the edges of the site. Shield the repaired area for a few days to harden.

Bonding the step corner

1. Bonding the chipped part of the step. Remove dust from damaged step corner and chipped piece. Prepare some synthetic resin masonry repair adhesive (such as epoxy) according to the directions in the instructions and apply it to the damaged area. Press the chipped piece and hold it until the glue hardens. You need to keep as long as the instructions require. If necessary, press the piece down with a board.

2. Shutdown. When the adhesive has hardened, remove excess with a spatula. If a crack remains, cover it with a synthetic resin mortar, not a liquid cement paste. Shield the repaired corner for at least 24 hours until the adhesive has fully cured.

Restoring the step angle

1. Restoring the shape of the damaged area. If a step corner is loose or missing, clean and dampen the damaged area. Mix 1 part cement to 3 parts sand with water and a binder until you get a paste that holds its shape. Apply a binder to the damaged area, then apply the mortar until the step is restored to shape. Allow the mortar to harden so that it cannot be pressed with a finger (this may take up to six hours depending on weather conditions).

2. Shutdown. With a steel trowel, grind the corner flush with the surface of the step. Let the mortar cure while wet for three days under plastic wrap or burlap. Water it twice a day and don’t step on the corner for a week or two. Aluminous cement mortar will be able to withstand impacts in just a few days.

Repair of a chipped step edge

1. Clean the damaged area. With a machinist’s chisel held horizontally, chip off the damaged concrete around the entire edge of the step. Don’t forget safety goggles.

2. Groove recess. Holding the chisel at an angle, deepen the groove so that it forms a V-shape (mortise). Also do this work in goggles. Remove dust and soak the prepared area in a wet state, preferably all night.

3. Application of mortar. Thoroughly mix 1 part cement to 3 parts sand with water and binder until a paste is obtained that holds its shape. Let the solution stand for now. Prepare a board for formwork with a width and length equal to the height and length of the step, and press it against the step with bricks or other heavy objects. Coat the edge of the step with a binder (as in the repair of wide cracks, point 3), then immediately fill the V-groove with mortar, leveling and smoothing it with a steel trowel.

4. Shutdown . Let the mortar harden for about an hour and round off the edge of the step with an edge rounding tool, then carefully remove the board. Keep the solution wet for at least a week and do not walk on the steps for another 5-7 days.

Five Ways to Fix Concrete Defects

Concrete is one of the strongest and most durable building materials in the modern world. But, even with a huge service life, concrete structures are not eternal and, like everything else in this world, they gradually wear out and collapse. In many cases, changes in the properties of this material can lead to the most serious consequences, especially when it comes to the load-bearing structures of buildings and structures. But the examination and repair of critical concrete products is a task that only true professionals can handle, but it is quite possible to repair a curbstone, parapet or garden path on your own.

Why do concrete defects appear?

There are a lot of reasons that reduce the reliability and service life of concrete products. The most significant factors are:

• Wrong design calculation;
• Installation errors;
• Exposure to chemicals;
• Influence of extreme temperatures;
• Mechanical damage.

All these impacts can be conditionally divided into two main groups: factors that destroy the material with the help of physical impact and those that affect the composition of concrete. Of course, before taking measures to restore the product, it is worth determining the cause that led to the appearance of the problem and, if possible, eliminate it or reduce the level of its impact on the material. This may be the application of waterproofing, the creation of a shock-absorbing layer, a change in the design and location of the concrete element. Having completed such work, you will get rid of the need to soon resort to correcting defects again and maintain an attractive appearance of the surface.

1. We repair concrete steps

Concrete steps are very common, and in some cases their appearance does not play a big role. But if these structural elements are part of the porch of a house or office, then the daily contemplation of jagged edges and cracks is unlikely to bring pleasure to you and your guests. An excellent solution to the problem, with relatively small defects, can be polymer resins for the repair of concrete and cement screeds, such as Belarusian Silikal. Resins of this type can be applied to a cleaned concrete surface with a layer of up to 5 mm, which is enough to seal chips and cracks, as well as to restore ribs that have slightly lost their geometric shape.

But in cases where the stage damage is more extensive and it is necessary to correct large flaws, it is better to use radical methods. The simplest and most elegant of them can be called the facing of a concrete staircase that has lost its attractiveness with ceramic floor tiles. This method of repair will not only make the steps aesthetic, but also help protect them from external influences in the future.

A more troublesome way is to restore the geometry by pouring concrete. In this case, it is necessary to expose the formwork and reinforce the places to be poured with steel wire, firmly fixing it in the holes drilled in the concrete. A well-executed restoration will return the steps to their original appearance and they will serve for a very long time.

2. Restoring the concrete alley

Of all the materials common today, concrete is best suited for garden paths, alleys and sidewalks. The not too decorative appearance of the coating in this case is compensated by high strength and its simple maintenance. But damage to concrete alleys is not uncommon. Shrinkage cracks and delamination of surface areas are most often the result of technology violations in the manufacture of concrete mix and its laying. Fortunately, the repair of tracks can be done on your own, using special solutions made by domestic and foreign manufacturers, or even with your own hands.

The materials used in repairs of this type are divided into two categories:

• Bulk;
• Thixotropic.

Bulk mixtures are used to restore the surface with large-scale damage or if it is necessary to eliminate irregularities in large areas. The composition of these products includes non-shrink types of cements, as well as polymer additives. The manufacture of bulk compositions is a complex technological process and it is better to purchase them in specialized stores.

Thixotropic repair materials are used to repair local areas of the coating. They have high viscosity and excellent adhesion to concrete. There are many varieties of these mortars, which may include cement, polymers, and epoxies. You can make a simple thixotropic mortar yourself. To do this, use the following components:

• A solution of PVA glue in water in a ratio of 1 to 3;
• 1 part cement;
• Fine river sand – 4 parts.

First, a cement-sand mixture is prepared, into which, then, with constant stirring, a water-adhesive suspension is added. For mixing, it is better to use a mixer attachment on a drill – this will significantly speed up the process and prepare a bucket of mortar in less than 5 minutes. The composition should not be made too liquid – its ideal consistency should be like that of medium density sour cream.

Before proceeding with the repair, you need to prepare the concrete surface. To do this, debris, dust and fragments of material are removed from the cracks. A stiff brush and a powerful vacuum cleaner can help in this matter. When cleaning, you need to monitor the edges of cracks and chips, and if you suspect their low strength, embroider the edges with a grinder and a diamond wheel. With a defect depth of more than 50 mm, it is necessary to perform additional reinforcement using steel wire, cleaned of rust. In the manufacture of frames, it must be remembered that the protective layer of the mortar over the reinforcement must be at least 20 mm.

To seal cracks and chips, the thixotropic composition is typed on a grater or spatula and pressed into the recess. Do not try to fill the crack immediately, as this is fraught with the appearance of voids in the recess. It is better to lay the mortar in several penetrations, 15-25 mm at a time. The polymerization time of an industrially prepared composition is usually indicated on the packaging. When working with self-created compounds, you will have to determine the degree of setting visually or tactilely. After the repair mortar has set, it is carefully leveled with a spatula.

After completing the work, you need to make sure that the restored surface retains moisture for 2-3 days. This is especially important in the summer heat, and neglecting this rule, you can get a lot of thin cracks on the surface, which over time will turn into defects again.

3. Restoring concrete countertop

Concrete countertops are rarely found in the homes and apartments of our fellow citizens. But very often such products can be found on garden tables and market stalls. Minor damage to the surface does not seriously affect its operational properties, but, unfortunately, under the influence of external factors, they can turn into deep defects and cracks. In addition, damage makes the product unattractive and contributes to the retention of dirt on its surface and the reproduction of microorganisms.

The easiest way to restore concrete countertops is to carefully sand them with an electric hand grinder. This work must be done in safety glasses, a respirator, gloves and overalls. Grinding begins with processing with the largest abrasive nozzles, gradually reducing the graininess until a perfectly smooth surface is achieved. This procedure is quite “dirty”, therefore, if possible, it is better to do it away from home.

After the surface has acquired the proper smoothness, it can be polished using mastics designed to work with natural and artificial stone.

4. Restoring expansion (deformation) seams

Professional builders are well aware of how important expansion joints are in the construction of concrete roads and alleys. The task of these structural elements is to compensate for the stresses that arise during the thermal expansion of the material. Over time, the edges of the seams begin to collapse and this process can be stopped only by radical intervention. The best way to avoid seam failure is to seal it. Since these coating elements must perform their functions, materials with sufficient elasticity are used for embedding. For this job, polyurethane sealants are ideal, which are commercially available in tubes for use with a mortar gun.

Before starting work, expansion joints must be thoroughly cleaned of contaminants to the entire accessible depth and must be dedusted. Polyurethane sealant is laid in the gaps at a temperature of +10 to +25 degrees Celsius, while the air humidity should not exceed 80%, and the humidity of the concrete surface should not exceed 4%. Since polyurethane compounds have a strong odor, you need to take care of ventilation if work is done indoors or respiratory protection if sealing is done outdoors.

In some cases, the linear dimensions of the joints and their number may require the use of a large amount of sealant, which leads to serious financial costs. Significant rise in price can be avoided by using special sealing cords, such as Vilaterm. These products are produced specifically for laying in expansion joints and can be purchased at many hardware stores. The cord is chosen so that it is compressed in the seam by about 25%. When using this technology of filling the seam, it is possible to apply sealant with a thickness of only 5 mm, which contributes to significant savings.

5. Basement wall repair

Many residential buildings and industrial premises have basement floors and basements, the walls of which are made of monolithic concrete or concrete blocks. Under the influence of external soil pressure, aggressive chemicals and other factors, these critical building envelopes begin to crack. If you do not pay attention to this phenomenon, then the destruction process can go too far and the help of professional builders is required, so it is easier to eliminate defects as soon as they are noticed.

Repair of concrete walls located inside the premises is carried out using building mixtures, which include cement, fine-grained filler, polymer additives and fiber. It is not difficult to purchase such materials, but it is more profitable to make them yourself. The easiest to prepare at home solution for the repair of concrete structures includes the following ingredients:

• Cement;
• Quartz sand;
• Ground limestone;
• Fine gravel;
• Polypropylene fiber;
• Water.

I start preparing the mixture by mixing the dry ingredients and only then gradually add water to the resulting composition with continuous stirring. As always, the best assistant in this matter will be a mixer attachment for a drill or hammer drill.

Before sealing cracks, the base is prepared by cleaning the voids from splinters, debris and dust. Before applying the solution, the damaged areas are primed using primers with high adhesive characteristics. The repair mixture is applied with spatulas, making sure that it penetrates as deep as possible into the cracks. After 20-40 minutes after filling the cracks, the solution must be smoothed with a grater. If a corner is located at the site of restoration, then it must be formed simultaneously with smoothing the surface.

The above methods of repairing concrete products are far from the only ones. But, despite this, having mastered these five technologies, you can effectively repair concrete surfaces at home, in the country or in the production workshop.

Helpful Hints

Updated: 30.11.2020 17:22:56

Types of cement – About repair

Whatever material you build your home from, you will almost certainly have to deal with the use of cement.

Even if you prefer eco-building, which is now fashionable, and your house will be, for example, made of straw blocks or raw logs, then some stages of construction will still require the use of concrete.

Foundation, sewer network and water supply, swimming pool, parking lot – this is not a complete list of “places” where you simply cannot do without concreting.

Since the modern construction market offers the widest variety of cement mixtures, it will be extremely difficult for an unprepared person to understand all the “pros and cons”.

This article was written to help you navigate and make a choice successfully.

Portland cement is produced from finely ground cement clinker with a small (up to five percent) addition of gypsum and various additives (ten to fifteen percent).

The name itself – Portland cement – comes from the name of the English island of Portland.

Clinker for it is obtained by firing before sintering a finely dispersed raw mass, which includes:

Gypsum is added in various proportions in order to adjust the setting speed of the compound.

Until recently, in construction (especially private) cements of different grades were used, even with the lowest strength indicators.

Now, in the modern construction industry, cements of the M400 and M500 grades are most in demand, as they best meet the needs and requests.

Concrete grade	Cement brand
M150	M300
M200	M300 and M400
M250	M400
M300	M400 and M500
M350	M400 and M500
M400	M500 and M600
M450	M550 and M600
M500	M600
M600 and up	M700 and up

with the help of which it will be easier for you to find out which type of Portland cement is needed for this design

Type and code Portland cement	M -ka	Composition and additives	Features and features	Main work purpose	Use not advisable	Use not effectively
Portland cement without additives (PC-DO)	M400	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3 – 5%)	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low and medium Shrink rate: medium	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures made of concretes of class C15-C25, for concrete with special service conditions with testing of cement for resistance to aggressive influences	Replacement of sulphate-resistant cements (except for use in slightly aggressive environments)	Mortars, also not tested in concretes and structures with special properties
	M500	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3 – 5%), finely ground	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low Shrinkage index: medium	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures made of concretes of class C20-C30, for concrete with special service conditions with testing of cement for resistance to aggressive influences	Replacement of sulphate-resistant cements for low-temperature concretes	For concrete less than C15
	M550, M600	Cement clinker with gypsum (3 – 5%), very fine fine	Curing speed: high Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low Shrink rate: medium	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures of concrete class C35 and above	Replacement of sulphate-resistant cements for low-temperature concretes	For concrete less than C30
Portland cement based on clinker of normalized mineral composition (PC-DO-N)	M400, M500	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3 – 5%), very fine, strictly adjustable mineral composition	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: low Shrink rate: low	Road and airfield pavements, contact network and power line supports, bridges, culverts, sleepers, etc. Can be used instead of PC-DO M400, M500	Replacement for sulphate resistant cements for use in medium to severe environments	Mortars
Fast hardening Portland cement (BTC) GOST 10178-85	M400, M500	Cement clinker with a large amount of tricalcium – out silicate and aluminate, finely ground	Curing speed: high Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low Shrinkage value: medium	Reinforced concrete structures, cast-in-place construction, prefabricated structures	Massive structures	Mortars
Portland cement with mineral additives (PC-D5)	M400	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3 – 5%) and blast-furnace slag granulate (up to 5%) or other active mineral additives (up to 5%)	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low Shrink rate: medium	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures made of concrete class C15-C25	Replacement of sulphate-resistant cements (except for use in slightly aggressive environments)	Mortars
	M500			Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures from concrete class C20-C30.	Replacement of sulphate-resistant cements for low-temperature concretes	For concrete less than C15
	M550, M600		Curing speed: high Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low Shrink rate: medium	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures made of concrete class C35 and above.		For concrete less than C30
Portland cement with mineral additives up to 20% (PC-D20)	M400	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3 – 5%) and granulate of blast-furnace slag (up to 20%) or other active mineral additives (up to 15%)	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: medium Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: medium Shrink rate: medium and high	Monolithic and prefabricated structures made of concrete of class C15 – C25, with the addition of a superplasticizer, it is possible to obtain concrete of class C40	Replacement of sulfate-resistant cements (except for use in slightly aggressive environments), for concrete with frost resistance F200 and above without air-entraining additives	Mortars
	M500		Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: medium Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: medium Shrink rate: medium and high	Monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete structures with concrete of class C20 – C30, with superplasticizers it is possible to obtain concrete of class C40 and above	Replacement of sulfate-resistant cements for low-temperature concretes, for concretes with frost resistance F200 and above without air-entraining additives	For concrete less than C15
Slag port land cement (ShPC)	M300	Cement clinker with addition of gypsum (3-5%) and blast-furnace slag granulate (up to 80%)	Curing speed: low Weather resistance: low Frost resistance: low Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: high Effective with HME (heat and moisture treatment)	Monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete structures with C20 HME for massive aboveground, underground and underwater structures, mortars, replacement of sulphate-resistant cements	For concrete with frost resistance F100 and above. For heavy concrete at a hardening temperature below 10 about C and no heating	Alternate wet and dry conditions
	M400		Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: medium Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: high Effective with HME (heat and moisture treatment) Low heat cement	Monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete structures with the provision of HME with class C25 for massive aboveground, underground and underwater structures, mortars	For concrete with frost resistance F100 and above without air-entraining admixtures	Alternate wet and dry conditions
	M500		Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: medium Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: medium Shrink rate: medium Effective with HME (heat and moisture treatment) Low heat cement	Monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete structures with HBO with class C15 – C30. You can add a superplasticizer to obtain concrete class C40		For concrete below C 15, for concrete with frost resistance F200 and above without air-entraining admixtures
Sulfate-resistant Portland cement (SSPTs) GOST 22266-94	M400, M500	Tricalcium silicate – up to 50%, Tricalcium aluminate – up to 5%, magnesium oxide (5%) and aluminum oxide (5%)	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: low Low heat cement	Monolithic and prefabricated reinforced concrete structures operating in highly aggressive environments. Under conditions of alternating freezing and thawing, moistening and drying, the manufacture of massive structures		For concretes that do not require high requirements for sulphate and frost resistance
Sulfate resistant Portland cement with mineral additives (SSPTs-D20)	M400, M500	Tricalcium silicate – up to 50%, Tricalcium aluminate – up to 5%, mineral additives up to 20%	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: medium Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: medium	Monolithic and precast concrete structures in highly corrosive environments. It is allowed to use instead of PC-D20		For concrete with frost resistance F200 and above without air-entraining additives, for mortars
Sulfate-resistant slag portland –cement (SSSHPTs) GOST 22266-94	M300, M400	Tricalcium silicate – up to 50%, Tricalcium aluminate – up to 5%, and blast furnace slag	Curing speed: low Weather resistance: medium Frost resistance: low Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: high	Sulfate resistant underground and underwater concrete and reinforced concrete structures, for use as low heat cements		Freeze-Thaw, Wet-Dry
Pozzolanic portland cement (PPC) GOST 22266-94	M300, M400	Cement clinker with gypsum additive (3 – 5%) and mineral additives	Curing speed: low Weather resistance: low Frost resistance: low Sulfate resistance: high Shrink rate: high	Underground and underwater structures in highly aggressive environments, internal arrays of hydraulic structures.	Above ground structures operating in wet conditions	In conditions of alternating wetting-drying, production of products and structures using HBO, frost-resistant concrete in hot conditions
Plasticizing Portland cement GOST 10178-85	M400, M500	Portland cement with additive hydrophilic surfactant	Curing speed: high Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: low and medium Shrink rate: medium Mobility of concrete mix: increased	Monolithic and prefabricated concrete and reinforced concrete structures, production of pre-boiled pre-boiled concrete products (HTV)		Manufacture of aerated concrete and for the preparation of very rigid compounds
Hydrophobic Portland cement GOST 10178-85	M400, M500	Portland cement with additive hydrophobic surfactant	Curing speed: medium Weather resistance: high Frost resistance: high Sulfate resistance: medium Shrink rate: medium Plasticity of the concrete mixture: increased Does not lose its activity for a long time Enhanced water resistance	Concrete for road and airfield pavement, hydraulic structures, cladding and plastering of buildings		Foam concrete production

Some characteristics of cement are visible, so to speak, “to the naked eye”, the essence of others takes a long time to “dig”.

That is why universal varieties are produced that combine a set of necessary properties.

But, along with them, specialized cement is produced, some qualities are reduced in it and others are increased:

What cement is made of, its types and composition0155

Composition and characteristics of components

Varieties of binder

Three ways of manufacturing

• Dry
• Wet
• Combined

The material is used very widely. It is used as an independent product and is introduced into solutions. All this is due to the property of the dry mixture – it can become plastic when water is added and after a while harden, turning into a kind of stone. Its characteristics vary somewhat depending on the composition, so it is important to know what cement is made of.

It always contains five main ingredients. Let’s analyze them using the example of Portland cement, one of the most popular varieties:

• calcium oxide – not less than 61%;
• silicon dioxide – not less than 20%;
• alumina about 4%;
• iron oxide – not less than 2%;
• magnesium oxide – not less than 1%.

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Additives are added to the mixture to improve certain characteristics of the material. Different breeds can be used as raw materials. Production is usually located in the immediate vicinity of the deposits.

Necessary minerals are mined in an open way, these are:

• Carbonate rocks: dolomite, marl, shell rock, chalk and other limestones.
• Clay rocks: loess, loams, shales.

Apatite, fluorspar, silica, alumina, etc. are used as additives.

• Finishing materials

  What is the difference between plaster and putty: a detailed description for beginners

Many types of cement are available for sale. They differ from each other in a number of characteristics:

• Durability. The most important indicator that is indicated on the label. It is made in the form of the letter M and a number. The latter denotes strength. It is determined as a result of technical tests.
• Faction. It is determined by the grinding of the mixture. The thinner it is, the better the product is considered to be. The composition of large and small particles is considered ideal, since only fine grinding requires too much water during kneading.
• Curing speed. Varies by introducing gypsum into the mixture. Depending on the purpose of the product, it can vary significantly.
• Frost resistance. Determined by the response to the freeze and thaw cycle. The material is characterized by the number of such cycles that it can withstand without changing its properties.

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The water requirement when mixing the mortar depends on the density of the material, so the amount of water for mixing different grades varies. Excess liquid reduces the strength of the cement.

Depending on the area of ​​application, several types of cement mixtures are distinguished.

Portland cement

Cures in air and water. There are no mineral additives. It is widely used for the construction of diverse monolithic structures.

Sulfate resistant

Its feature is increased resistance to chemical aggressive environments. It is characterized by a low saturation coefficient. This allows the use of sulfate-resistant cement for the construction of hydraulic engineering, underground structures, etc.

Pozzolanic

Can be considered a sulphate-resistant variety, but with the addition of active minerals. Slow curing, high water resistance. Used for hydraulic engineering construction.

Aluminous

Increased content of calcium oxide and alumina. This allows the mixture to quickly harden. It is used for the manufacture of fast hardening heat-resistant and building mortars, which are used in repair work, high-speed construction, winter concreting, etc.

Acid resistant

Formulated with silica sand and sodium silicate fluoride. It is mixed not with water, but with liquid glass. Used to obtain acid-resistant coatings. Does not withstand constant exposure to water.

Plasticized

It is made with special additives that give frost resistance and increased mobility to mortars prepared on this cement. They acquire greater strength, better resist corrosion and are characterized by increased water resistance.

Slag cement

Its recipe includes slag, the percentage of which can vary from 20% to 80% by weight of the product. This reduces the cost of the material, slows down the rate of its hardening and increases heat resistance. It is used for the construction of ground, underwater and underground facilities.

Instagram tsement_82

As practice shows, Portland cement is the most demanded option. This is what they mean when it comes to cement.

Manufacturing technology consists in obtaining and subsequent grinding of clinker. This is the name of the granules, which are an intermediate product of production. Their composition is always the same. It is limestone and clay mixed in a ratio of 3:1. In nature, there is a mineral that is completely identical in composition to clinker. It’s called marl. However, its reserves are limited and cannot meet the needs of production.

This is why factories use an artificial analogue of marl. To obtain it, the necessary ingredients are thoroughly mixed in large containers with special drums. The mass prepared in this way is fed into the kiln, where it is fired for about four hours. The process temperature is about 1500 ^about C. Under such conditions, the powder begins to sinter into small granules. After cooling, the clinker grains are sent for grinding. They are crushed in large drums with ball sieves and screens. At this stage, it is important to grind the granules and obtain a powder product of a certain size. Grinding is determined by the size of the sieve cells. The resulting powder is mixed with the necessary additives that determine the brand and properties of the product.

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Finished cement materials are delivered to storage or to the packaging area, where they are distributed into containers of various capacities or loaded into special cement trucks.

Despite the general technology, three methods can be used to produce the composition, depending on the properties of the raw materials.

Dry method

This method significantly reduces the time and cost of preparing a cement mixture. It involves several stages:

1. The raw material is crushed to obtain fine grains.
2. Prepared granules are dried to achieve the desired moisture content. This is done to facilitate subsequent operations.
3. The ingredients are mixed in certain proportions. Then they are crushed to get flour.
4. The powder is fed into a rotary kiln where it is fired but not sintered into pellets.

After cooling, the finished product is sent to the warehouse or packaging area.

The dry method is considered to be the least energy-intensive and therefore very beneficial for producers. Unfortunately, it is not applicable to all categories of raw materials.

• Finishing materials

  7 finishing materials that you have not yet used in the interior

Wet process

In some cases it is necessary to moisten the prepared material. In such cases, the wet method is used. For the preparation of clinker, which consists of limestone and clay, a mixture of the main components is kneaded with the addition of water. The result is a viscous mass, which is called sludge.

It is put into the kiln where it is fired. In this process, granules are formed from the sludge, which, after cooling, are sent for grinding.