Two storey side extension: Double Storey Extensions: Guide to Planning, Design and Build | Urbanist Architecture
Your Guide To A Double Storey Extension — Love Renovate
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Building a double storey extension can drastically change your home and the way that you live.
Not only will you be increasing the size of the downstairs, which is likely to incorporate a larger kitchen and general living space, you could also be adding an extra bedroom or two which will make your house more comfortable for family life.
With more people working from home, adding a double storey extension can also give you options to include in a study, which makes life more practical too.
We’ve put together our helpful guide to double storey extensions, looking at everything from the potential cost of a double storey extension and understanding planning permission. We also have some wonderful double storey extension ideas too.
If you are thinking about a double storey extension in the near future and need some help with where to start with your project, try our 1:1 impartial online session.
Renovation Advice Session
How Much Does A Double Storey Extension Cost?
One of the most appealing things about carrying out a double storey extension is the cost is not necessarily double that of carrying out a single storey extension.
With the cost of the ground work and roof broadly the same, adding a double storey costs around 50% of the single storey, making it a smart way to add living space.
The best way to get an estimate of your double storey extension cost is to visit our extension cost calculator. You can input the approximate size of your extension, your location in the UK and which rooms you are including in the extension.
Our cost calculator will give you a high level view of your project and includes all of the potential costs, including professional fees, VAT and a contingency.
The double storey extension cost can change based on your individual property, however your architect and builder will be able to give you a detailed breakdown once you have structural plans.
We love this double storey extension before and after from Insta account @houseofmistry_ who have transformed this 1930s home.
The house before any renovation @houseofmistry_
The home after the double storey side extension and large single storey rear extension by @houseofmistry_
Do I Need Planning Permission For A Double Storey Extension?
A double storey extension can sometimes be carried out within permitted development, which means there is no need for planning permission. There are some requirements that your double storey extension must meet.
Size
– A double storey extension must not go beyond 3 metres of the original house and not be within 7 metres of the boundary to the rear.
– The extension cannot be more than 50% of the total area of land around the original house. You must be aware of any extensions that were carried out by previous owners.
– The extension cannot be built forward of the principal elevation or the side elevation where it faces a public right of way (referred to as a highway).
– The eaves and ridge height should be no more than that of the original house, and where any extension is within 2 metres of a boundary, the eaves height should be no higher than 3 metres to be within permitted development.
Style And Materials Used
– The roof pitch over a single storey should match the existing, where possible.
– The materials used on the exterior must be a similar style to that of the original house.
Windows And Balconies
– A window facing the side elevation on the second floor must be obscured and non-opening, unless it is 1.7 metres above the floor in that particular room.
– Balconies or verandas are not allowed within permitted development, however Juliet balconies are normally within permitted development.
If your home is a maisonette, a flat, on designated land, such as a conservation area or an area of outstanding natural beauty, then you will be required to apply for planning permission no matter if your double storey extension meets the other criteria.
Additionally, all side extensions of more than one storey will require planning permission. For a full list of requirements, visit the planning portal.
It is always worth checking with your local authority regarding your property as some areas will also have permitted development rules removed (known as an Article 4 direction).
If you believe that your double storey extension is within permitted development then it’s advised to obtain a lawful development certificate which proves that your work didn’t require planning permission.
Many renovators do still choose to go ahead with a full planning application to allow more flexibility on the size, design and finish. You must carry out the work within 3 years of planning approval.
A double storey extension which has a contemporary look, contrasting with the original home. Image source Home Hub Group.
What Other Permissions Should I Look Out For When Building A Double Storey Extension?
Even if your double storey extension is within permitted development, you will still be required to submit a building control application, ensuring the structural integrity and safety of the building.
If you have appointed an architect, they will work with a structural engineer to produce structural drawings. Your builder will also use these drawings when carrying out the construction.
If you are digging foundations near the Party Wall, then you must obtain a Party Wall Agreement from your neighbour(s). You will need to serve notice at least 2 months before the work begins and start the work within 12 months of getting an agreement.
Your neighbours’ right to light will need to be considered too.
There are other considerations for your property including assessing the soil conditions and any tree routes which could impact the depth of the foundations and concrete poured.
If you are working with an architect then they can guide you on any permissions and surveys required.
When Are Planning Applications For Double Storey Extensions Refused?
There are many instances where you will need to apply for planning permission and in some cases your application will be refused.
This can be the case with a rear double extension on a mid-terraced house, where a double storey extension could have a significant impact on your neighbours privacy and dominate over their house.
All side extensions of more than one storey will require planning permission. Some local authorities can also be tough on double storey side extensions, particularly when they are visible from the front of the house.
Whether you are able to build a double storey is often dependent on your particular property, local authority and style.
We adore this contemporary double storey extension on this 1930s home from Insta account @placefortyeight, which took 8 months in total to get planning approval.
The home before the extension from @placefortyeight
The side double storey extension is a striking contemporary style which works so well against the original red brick. From @placeforteight.
What Should I Consider About The Layout And Style Of My Double Storey Extension?
On the upper floor, consider the new flow and don’t take away too much of the existing living space.
You may wish to remodel the existing upper floor to make it work well and to ensure the extension doesn’t feel like an add on.
If you are adding more bedrooms, try to add an additional bathroom or en-suite. En-suites don’t need to be large but will make the bedroom more practical for visitors or general family life. Not only will the space work better for you, you should increase the value of your home when you come to sell it.
The impact of light needs to be considered when you are carrying out a double storey extension. Depending on the style of extension, a double storey extension may not have light coming in from above and can feel dark. If your upper floor is set back from the ground floor, try to include a skylight or lantern to increase the natural light.
Incorporating large sliding doors, floor to ceiling windows or bi-folding doors to the rear of the ground floor will allow an abundance of light to flood in. Open plan living will also allow more light to flow through the house, so consider keeping the space open from the hallway.
It’s a great time to make sure you use the ground floor extension to its full potential. Adding a downstairs toilet, study, storage space or utility room can really help make your home become more practical.
Large open plan living spaces can transform a home, so make sure that it works with the existing ground floor. By using the same flooring and colour palette throughout will help the flow between the original home and the extension.
How Long Does It Take To Build A Double Storey Extension?
Allow plenty of time at the outset to plan your double storey extension. Appointing an architect and applying for planning permission (should you need it) will take several months, with planning applications taking 8 weeks’.
Finding a reputable builder should not be rushed, with many good builders having to be booked at least 6 – 12 months in advance. Although it’s worthwhile chatting to builders at the outset, they won’t be able to accurately quote until you have the structural calculations available, so this process requires patience./nuprop-production/a512611c75d2d353d433ecaa92fc36c6_800_600.jpg)
Additionally, if you require a Party Wall Agreement, you will need to serve notice at least 2 months before the work begins.
Allowing 6 – 12 months of planning your double storey extension is about the right length of time.
In the current climate where there is potential for material delays and longer lead times for labourers, the construction of a double storey extension could take between 6 – 9 months. The length of time will also vary depending on the size and complexity of your double storey extension. There will also be some time at the end for snagging.
We recommend that you plan as early as possible to find the right tradespeople to work with, and allow some time during the construction for delays.
We love the home of Insta account @firststepontheladder, where the double storey extension to the side added a study and playroom downstairs and en-suite and dressing room upstairs.
1930s home pre-extension from Insta account @firststepontheladder
The rear view after the double storey extension at the side from @firststepontheladder
Where Should You Build Your Double Storey Extension?
The most common place to build a double storey extension is to the rear of your property.
These are the most favourable to planning as they cannot be seen from the street.
Often large rear ground floor extension have a double storey on only part of the extension; you may require only one additional bedroom but would like a much larger living space. The benefit of this is that you can still incorporate a sky light or lantern to bring in light from above.
Double storey side extensions are also popular when you have a larger plot and plenty of space to the side. A side extension of more than one storey will require planning permission. Double storey side extensions can be a challenge to get approval as they face the road and will impact the look of the street. Try to keep the exterior materials in keeping with the original house for a successful planning application.
Again, double storey side extensions are often built alongside a large single storey rear extension if there is enough space around the home.
What Else Should You Consider When Planning A Double Storey Extension?
Having your neighbours on side early will help not only for the planning but also throughout the build.
It’s always best to chat to your neighbours’ when you have your plans but before you apply for planning permission. You can talk through any concerns at this stage which may end up impacting your planning application. Although your neighbours’ opinion will only impact your planning application if it’s valid.
As you are likely adding an extra bathroom and potentially utility, make sure that your existing boiler can cope with the additional requirements. If you have a combi boiler, you may want to consider going for a conventional boiler to cope with the pressure.
As a double storey extension will take time, be disruptive and messy, it’s also worth considering moving out for some of the build. This will make the whole process easier for your family, as well as letting the builders work quicker.
If you are thinking about a double storey extension in the near future and need some help with where to start with your project, try our 1:1 impartial online session.
Renovation Advice Session
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Before after photos of the construction of a two storey side extension.
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Two Storey Side Extension Construction Diary Before & after photos of the construction of a two storey side extension. Please scroll down the page to view before, during and after photos of the building of this two storey side extension. Alternatively, please click on one of the sections in this quick list below to see a particular aspect of the building process.
Please click on the images below for a larger view (opens in new window/tab). Before Building Works Commenced
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Digging Foundations
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Installing Pipework
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Building the Base & Brick Walls
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Joinery
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Installing Roof Trusses
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Roof Tiling
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Wiring & Plumbing
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Installing Stud Walls
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Plasterboarding & Plastering
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page Garden Steps
Return to top of build a two storey side extension page The HD Property Services team on this two storey side extension project included:
<<< GO BACK TO BEFORE & AFTER GALLERY <<< Call us today for a friendly chat to discuss your requirements on 07513 99 17 17 or 01527 401 403. |
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© HD Property Services (Midlands) Limited | Webheath | Redditch | Worcestershire | Tel: 07513 991717 or 01527 401403
Interior & exterior building services. Home improvement, property renovation & refurbishment services:
Extensions, renovations, conversions, bathrooms, kitchens, plumbing, plastering, tiling, fencing, carpentry, roofing.
Established company with qualified & experienced tradesmen:
Builders, Plumbers, Electricians, Plasterers, Tilers, Painters, Decorators, Carpenters, Fencers, Roofers.
Throughout the Midlands: Worcestershire, Warwickshire, Staffordshire.
HD Property Services (Midlands) Ltd is Registered as a Limited Company in England and Wales. Company Reg. No: 7043593
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Before and after photos of a two-storey side extension.
Conversion garage
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Two-storey side extension This family home needed more living space. The project involved extending the existing brickline of the recessed garage to be in-line with the front of the main house, and then further extending across the full front width of the house to incorporate a porch with pitched roof. The conversion of the garage space into the extended ground floor area created a large living space for the family to enjoy. It comprised a kitchen extension, two additional bedrooms and a downstairs shower room. Upstairs featured a new bedroom and luxury en-suite bathroom. Finally the frontage was finished with decorative chippings in place of the previous lawn. The building extension required careful brick colour matching and the continuation of an ornamental brick-line to match the original construction. Please scroll down the page to view before, during and after photos of this building project.
The HD Property Services team on this two storey extension building project included:
<<< GO BACK TO BEFORE & AFTER GALLERY <<< Call us today for a friendly chat to discuss your requirements on 07513 99 17 17 or 01527 401 403. |
Click on the images for a larger view (opens in new window/tab).
© HD Property Services (Midlands) Limited | Webheath | Redditch | Worcestershire | Tel: 07513 991717 or 01527 401403
Interior & exterior building services.
Home improvement, property renovation & refurbishment services:
Extensions, renovations, conversions, bathrooms, kitchens, plumbing, plastering, tiling, fencing, carpentry, roofing.
Established company with qualified & experienced tradesmen:
Builders, Plumbers, Electricians, Plasterers, Tilers, Painters, Decorators, Carpenters, Fencers, Roofers.
Throughout the Midlands: Worcestershire, Warwickshire, Staffordshire.
HD Property Services (Midlands) Ltd is Registered as a Limited Company in England and Wales. Company Reg. No: 7043593
| Web site hosting Digicube-it.com | Favicon Generator and Gallery
How Much Does It Cost in 2022?
Want to find out how much building a two storey extension will cost?
In this price guide we summarise all of the potential costs a homeowner may have to pay when they carry out a double storey extension.
This includes material prices, the cost of labour, and considers additional costs such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Check out below for more information!
Average Cost of Building a Double Storey Extension:
Depending on the complexity of the job, it usually takes: 10-12 weeks
£40,000
Table of Contents
- How Much Does a Double-Storey Extension Cost?
- Double Storey Extension Prices
- Labour Costs and Timescales
- Additional Two-Storey Extension Costs
- Cost Factors of a Double Storey Extension
- Planning Stage
- Initial Building Work
- Secondary Building Work
- Interior Work
- What Is Involved in Building a Double Storey Extension?
- Planning
- Groundwork
- Main Build
- The Finishing Touches
- Benefits of a Double-Storey Extension
- Types of Double Storey Extension
- Which Direction Should I Extend My House?
- Adding or Extending a Bathroom
- Adding or Extending a Kitchen
- Extension Rules and Regulations
- Planning Permission
- Building Regulations
- Party Wall Considerations
- Can I Build a Double-Storey Extension Myself?
- Cost of Removing a Double-Storey Extension
- Hiring a Double-Storey Extension Builder Checklist
- FAQs
- Sources
How Much Does a Double-Storey Extension Cost?
If you find that your home has become too small, then a double storey extension could be the right solution.
The cost of adding a double-storey extension will vary hugely – the size, complexity and location all play a huge part.
A two-storey extension not only gives you more space, but it is more cost-effective than moving house and cheaper per square metre than a single storey extension. If both storeys in an extension are the same size, then a double storey extension will cost around 50%-75% more than a single storey extension.
The typical cost of building a two-storey extension starts at around £40,000, but this will increase if you are planning to use some of the space as a kitchen or bathroom.
To start your budget, you should work on a square metre price of between £1,000 and £1,750. This is for your basic building materials including foundations, walls, roofing, plumbing, electrics and finishing. Once you have your rough square meterage price, you’ll need to add £5,000-£15,000 for an average-sized fitted kitchen, and a further £1,500-£7,500 for a standard family bathroom.
The lower price is for a basic specification – the no-frills essentials – and the top-end price is for the highest quality goods and services, with some custom-made pieces such as large windows, bespoke stairs or hardwood floors.
Double Storey Extension Prices
The price you pay for your double storey extension will depend on multiple factors, these include the finish you choose, location and what your extension will consist of.
The below tables shows some average costs for extensions in the UK, including the average price per m² and what you can expect to pay if you are adding a kitchen or bathroom to your home.
*30m² would be classed as a small extension; 60m² as medium, and 100m²+ as large.
The below table shows the difference in costs based on your extension size and the specification of finish that you choose.
Labour Costs and Timescales
You should obtain at least 3 quotes for the building work, and, if possible, view some work previously completed by the contractor.
You will usually find that a cheaper contractor is less skilled, although this isn’t always the case.
When budgeting for building costs, below are the rough charges for one day’s labour by the various work types. For a double storey extension you’re going to need to hire a variety of tradesman or a company which specialises in extensions and covers all areas.
You can break your total extension costs into three constituent parts – the cost of labour, materials, and site clearance/tidy – and gauge roughly long the building project should take.
The build time is contingent on efficiency of labour, weather conditions and scheduling of multiple work types simultaneously. You should also factor in extra time for complex additions and a larger extension size.
If you need to get planning permission, go to an architect, or gain a Party Wall agreement, you will need to add the relevant time on before the building work begins.
Additional Two-Storey Extension Costs
When building a double extension, there may be some additional costs that’ll be worth budgeting for just in case you need any.
Here are some average additional costs you might come across:
Cost Factors of a Double Storey Extension
To work out a reasonably accurate budget for your extension, there are lots of factors to consider. You should always round up any potential costs, and add around 10% as a buffer; otherwise, any unexpected costs can blow your budget.
Planning Stage
This includes every aspect which needs consideration prior to the build.
This includes the design of the extension and creation of full plans, any planning permission or site visits/surveys, project management (whether by an architect or building firm), party wall considerations/approval, and attendance by a structural engineer, including any work he or she deems necessary.
You should budget around £13,000 for the complete planning stage.
As a note, hiring an architect isn’t a legal requirement, but they have been fully trained in all aspects of building design including how best to make use of space, ensuring access, adhering to regulations, and managing the project if required, so if you want your project to go as smoothly as possible, an architect is a good use of your money.
Initial Building Work
This is the stage where you start having contractors on site, and the build begins. By the end of this stage, you will have a basic shell which then needs work on the interior.
Foundations – Whether you go for a deep strip foundation or a trench fill, you are looking at around £6,000 to make sure your extension is going onto a solid structure. Often the builder will provide a quote based on an average width, depth and load-bearing ability, but this will change once the ground can be fully assessed.
Framing – There are four main types of framing with their own positives and negatives. Timber framing works out the most expensive as it is custom-built; however, brick and block framing, flat pack/modular, and rapid masonry construction all have their own benefits. Budget around £5,000.
Exterior finishing – Prices can vary wildly under this category. A natural stone finish will cost you around £350 per square metre, as opposed to £40 per square metre for standard cement.
An average facing or rendered brick exterior will cost around £3,500 in total.
Roofing – An average
roof installation, using standard-sized roofing tiles, and standard shaped roof, will cost around £4,500. You will need to factor in more for inclusion of chimneys, varying pitches, gables, etc.
Secondary Building Work
At this point, you need to add your access points and any external landscaping (if required) – building work and machinery may have damaged existing green space, and the addition of the extension may have required removal of an existing patio.
Windows – If you’re looking at a standard double-glazed window installation with ‘off the shelf’ windows and in a standard size, this will cost you around £600. An average-sized extension may require four windows, which will total £2,400.
Doors – An average-sized composite external door will cost around £1,100, including installation. Internal doors, if required, cost from £30 for a basic door, to hundreds for a custom-designed one.
On top of this, you will have to factor in the cost of hanging the doors and the fixings.
Landscaping – In most cases, any previously existing patio will have been removed to make way for a rear extension. If you want to have a new patio laid while your extension is being built, you will need to hire a landscape gardener. An average patio will cost around £1,800 for both the materials and labour, but you can calculate the cost for your specific sized patio if you use a basic charge of £100 per m², which should cover both the labour and your materials.
Interior Work
This is the final stage of the build. Your contractors are now looking to wire your extension, complete plumbing work, extend your heating and install your bathroom and kitchen if required.
You will need to have your new walls plastered, and you may then wish to bring in a decorator to add the finishing touches to your new rooms.
Installation of a new kitchen – A small basic specification kitchen and a large high specification kitchen will vary in price by many thousands, but a guide price for a medium-sized average specification kitchen is £10,000.
This will include all of your appliances, the plumbing, electrics, tiling, painting, worktops and all of your cupboards/units, as well as fitting. See here to find out more about the costs of a new kitchen.
Installation of a new bathroom – As with the installation of a new kitchen, how much you pay can change hugely depending on size and finish. A standard bathroom will cost you around £7,000, which will include your bathroom suite, plumbing, heating, electrics, tiling, painting, and installation. See here to find out more about the costs of new bathroom.
Electrics – Most electricians will charge a day rate, on average around £230, but the cost will then rise as you decide which fixtures and fittings you want. A basic single socket will cost far less than a double socket with chrome finish and USB ports. The electrician will need to do a basic wire of the extension, and it may require your fuse box to be upgraded or replaced. If you have an electric boiler, this too will need to be assessed to see whether it has the capacity to heat the extra rooms or satisfy the additional hot water requirements.
Plastering, painting and decorating – A plasterer will likely quote for the entire job if all rooms need doing, which will be in the region of £700 for a double extension. A painter and decorator will charge around £400 per room; however, if multiple rooms need decorating how much you pay may drop as the labourer can work on multiple rooms concurrently. You also need to factor in the cost of the paint, so decorating a double extension may end up costing around £1,500.
What Is Involved in Building a Double Storey Extension?
Planning
Take a look at where your extension will be located and research whether you’ll need to consider the Party Wall Act (1996). This sets out a framework to ensure neighbours sharing any wall are given notice of the prospective build and have a formalised method of putting forward any disagreements.
Then consider how deliveries and equipment will be able to reach the work area, any rights of way and whether your current buildings insurance will cover you while the work is done (if not, you can purchase extension insurance).
Planning permission is a further area to investigate – this will depend on the size and location of your extension, as well as how it fits in with your locale and any implications exerted by the existing building (e.g. if it is a listed building).
Next, the extension needs designing. Choosing and hiring an architect requires the same amount of research as the hire of any other worker, and your architect will then complete all the plans.
If you decide to draw up the design yourself, you may need a draftsperson to help you put your plans into a format suitable for submission to your Local Planning Authority. You may also need a structural engineer to produce information for consideration of a Building Regulations Inspector.
Finally, you will need to consider who will be completing the work. You will need to hire either a main contractor to complete the whole job or subcontractors should you wish to manage the project yourself.
Builders, like with any other hired contractor, should be thoroughly researched.
You will need to communicate with your builder throughout the project and trust that they will complete the work to the standard you wish.
It is also worth considering whether your building contractor can do multiple types of work (e.g. plumbing, electrics, brickwork) so it is easier to ensure each piece of work is done at the right time.
If you have researched your project and are able to provide your builder with enough information, they should be able to give you a fixed quote for the work, including a full breakdown of prices.
Once you’re happy with your contractors, have your finance in place, and are ready to commence work, the final thing to consider is that of building regulations. These are in place to make sure your property is fire safe, ventilated properly, has appropriate waste/drainage disposal etc.
A Building Inspector from your Local Authority will visit your building site at different stages of the build to check whether there are any problems which may require fixing.
Groundwork
The contractors will attend the site to measure out the foundations, and then a structural engineer will assess the ground and make any recommendations to the builders based on their findings.
A Buildings Inspector will visit at this point and make their recommendations, and the architect may also visit to communicate any clarifications to the contractors.
At this stage, the builders will finalise their plans for the foundations, incorporating the recommendations by the structural engineer and Buildings Inspector, and also taking into account any pipes, drainage etc. which has been unearthed.
Main Build
Once your foundations have been laid and any drainage issues resolved, the contractors will start work on the external structure. The builders will begin by erecting the external walls and joining the extension to the existing property.
Then the structural supports such as beams and columns will go up, followed by the laying of the ground-floor base and upstairs suspended floor.
Finally, the roof will be built, including any dormer windows or chimneys, and the extension’s main windows and any external doors will be installed.
It’s at this stage that the extension is considered waterproof. At this point that you may wish to consider landscaping – all heavy machinery, external workmen and scaffolding should now be offsite, so the landscapers can commence their work without risk of damage by the other contractors.
Once your building is watertight, the internal work can begin. The original external wall can now be knocked through into the extension, and a structural engineer will determine what support will be required to reinforce the exposed structure.
A carpenter/joiner will build the internal frame of the rooms, including door frames and walls. It is at this point that you’ll begin to see the layout and size of your extension, and what each room will look like. Your joiner may, at this stage, also do any custom-building work such as staircases and fitted cupboards.
Once this is done, your electrician and plumber can start laying their pipes and wires into the wooden framework. If you are getting a kitchen, bathroom or en-suite installed, the plumber will route your pipework to where you want your sinks, toilets and showers, and your electrician will ask you where you want your light switches, wall sockets and appliances.
If you are having a gas oven or hob, a gas engineer should also attend at this point to install their pipework. After the pipes and wiring have been installed, the plasterer can begin work, and once the plaster is completely dry, the final decorative and installation work can begin.
A joiner will likely need to return at this point to build door frames, skirting boards, window ledges, and hang internal doors.
When you get to this stage, it’s important to think about how your new living area(s) will connect to your existing property. An 18th-century farmhouse may look odd with a new futuristic-looking chrome kitchen, and an exposed-brick rustic bathroom will not suit a super modern house.
To ensure your new extension adds value to, and complements, your existing property, the look and feel of your fixtures, fittings, white goods, paintwork, cupboards and flooring should all sit happily alongside the existing décor.
Once you’re sure of your internal design items, your kitchen and bathroom white goods and cupboards can start being installed, your tiling, painting and decorating can begin, and specialists will lay down flooring and carpets.
The Finishing Touches
It’s now that you’ll be adding your light fittings, radiators, curtain rails, and other permanent features. At the end of this stage, the Buildings Inspector will return and check that all the work has been completed in alignment with policy and regulations – they will sign-off the work and provide a completion certificate. The workmen will now all leave, and you can look forward to putting your feet up in your new living space.
Benefits of a Double-Storey Extension
As with any project, large or small, there will always be many pros and cons, and after much consideration, these are often boiled down into two: cost, and duration.
So, ignoring those two factors, which are somewhat controlled by the homeowner and circumstance, what are the other reasons why a two-storey extension is a good idea?
Space: Adding an extension onto your home is a great way to have a bigger home without having to move to a different area. In that respect, there is additional money-saving as you don’t have the expense of estate agent fees, solicitors’ fees and stamp duty.
Purpose: Adding your own extension, instead of buying a bigger house, allows you to choose the type and size of rooms which will fit your purpose. If you have someone with mobility issues, you can get a downstairs wet room; if you’re having a child, another bedroom will be useful; and if you’re starting up your own home business, you can build yourself an office. And if you don’t need any extra rooms, your extension can be used to make existing rooms bigger – your middle bedroom could be expanded and turned into your main bedroom complete with en-suite, or your compact kitchen could become a kitchen diner with utility area.
Pro-rata cost: Whilst adding a single storey extension will give you extra space, it costs pro-rata less to add an extra level. Because you are building the foundations and roof for either a one or two-storey extension, your additional storey will only require the internal walls, external finishing and interior finishing.
Types of Double Storey Extension
You can choose from various types of double storey extension, depending on where or what you want to extend in your home:
Double Storey Front
This type of two-storey extension is most probably the least common. The reason for this is a front extension has the most impact on the look of a property, and there are stricter building regulations to adhere to.
Double Storey Side Return
This type of extension is built at the side of the property, without jeopardising the garden area. This extension can be implemented in a detached or semi-detached property.
Double Storey Rear
This extends the rear of a property, usually, by extending into garden space.
This type of extension is a good choice for semi-detached and detached properties. A terraced that has enough back-garden space could also have a rear extension too.
Double Storey Wrap Around
This type of extension is a mixture of a side extension and a rear extension. If the main reason for you wanting an extension is extra space, then a wrap around extension can add a lot of space to a property and is the best solution. It’s achievable for both detached and semi-detached properties.
Which Direction Should I Extend My House?
When deciding on what direction you should extend your house, you’ll have to take a few aspects into consideration.
The simplest option is extending to the rear of the house, but you’ll need enough back-garden space to do so. If you don’t have enough back-garden space, maybe a side extension is right for you instead, especially if the neighbour doesn’t have any overlooking windows.
If you want an eco-friendly extension, working out what direction your garden and house faces can help you make a decision.
Try to build an extension facing south if possible, this way it will be warmer and have more light flooding in through the windows.
What you want the space for is also another factor to consider. If you want to extend the kitchen, where does your current kitchen sit within the house? At the back, to the side? What do you want to extend on the second floor? Add another bedroom? All of this will determine what direction you should extend your house.
Adding or Extending a Bathroom
Many families choose to add a new bathroom, refurbish an existing an existing one, or add an en-suite when building an extension. Some also add a WC to their downstairs too, as extra washroom facilities will always add value to a house.
The more bedrooms a house has, the more bathrooms are needed so a potential buyer will likely pass on a 4-bedroom house which only has one bathroom, and no WC or en-suite.
A new bathroom, including the suite and installation, will cost between £4,500 and £9,000.
The new suite on its own (bath, toilet, sink) can be bought for less than £500, but your labour costs, cupboards, tiling, decorating, shower, heated towel rail, bidet etc. are what bump up the price. An alternative to a traditional bathroom is a wet room – this is a great option when you need to wash younger children, bath pets, or if you have mobility issues.
These are more expensive than a standard bathroom as the flooring requires plumbing and fully tiling, but they are a modern alternative to a bathroom and worth considering.
Adding or Extending a Kitchen
A new kitchen, extension to an old one, or a kitchen remodelling is one of the most popular uses of extra downstairs space, with many families now opting to eat in a kitchen diner rather than a traditional dining room.
A new kitchen can cost anywhere between £8,000 and £15,000, and you could go far higher with enough space and requirements.
If you are extending an existing kitchen, it may be worth replacing any old white goods, so they sit well with new ones, as well as being more energy-efficient and streamlined.
The cost of white goods varies as with anything, but below is a rough guide:
Extension Rules and Regulations
When choosing whether or not to extend your house, first you need to consider all the various regulations that you must follow in this process.
Planning permission (and whether you need it or not), building regulations and party wall considerations are the three areas which will need thoroughly researching before you commence your project.
Planning Permission
Under certain criteria, you don’t need to apply for planning permission – this is called ‘permitted development rights.’ According to the official government website, there are three categories that usually have permitted development rights (with some caveats and limits) – these are industrial premises/warehouses, outdoor signs/advertisements, and demolition.
Unless your extension falls into one of the above criteria, you will have to decide for yourself whether to apply for planning permission or not.
The general guidelines are as follows:
- If you live in a national park, the Broads, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, a conservation area or World Heritage Site you are not permitted to build an extension of more than one storey.
- All extensions (prospective and previously completed) must not comprise more than half the total area (including sheds and outhouses) of land around the original house (e.g. before ANY extensions).
- The eaves and ridge height must not exceed the height of the existing house, and the eaves themselves must not be higher than three metres if the extension is within two metres of a boundary.
- Double or triple storey extensions must not be more than three metres deeper than the original house or be within seven metres of the opposing boundary.
- Roof pitch extensions should match that of the existing house where possible.
- The extension’s external materials should closely match those of the existing property.
- Upper floor/roof windows must not be transparent (translucent is ok) and or able to be opened unless the part to open is 1.7m+ above the floor in that room.
- You are not permitted to add a balcony or veranda to a double storey extension.
When you apply for planning permission, it will currently cost you £206, which you will be required to pay to your local planning authority at the time you submit your application.
Building Regulations
you must check if you need approval prior to commencing your build and should not confuse this with planning permission – you may need both. If the person doing the work doesn’t apply for or comply with Building Regulations, they may be prosecuted and fined, and it will also impact on the future sale of the property if the extension doesn’t comply.
You will likely need to submit a Full Plans application when seeking Building Regulations approval for your build. A decision based on your application should be provided within 5 weeks, and a completion certificate (once the building complies with all the regulations) will be received within 8 weeks of the extension being completed.
To ensure the extension conforms to the regulations, an Inspector will do on-site visits periodically to view the work, provide guidance and sign-off approval.
The cost of submitting a full plans application is around £180, but there will be an additional cost for the subsequent inspections – this could vary from £200 – £550.
Party Wall Considerations
If there is a wall on your property that stands on both your and your neighbour’s land and is part of a building, or if there is a garden wall standing on both pieces of land, or a wall that is used to separate two buildings, this is considered a party wall.
You will need to review the Party Wall Act if you are doing work to an existing party wall, building on or at the boundary of two properties, or are excavating near to or below the foundation level of neighbouring buildings.
There is no cost for reviewing and discussing the party wall process with your neighbours, but there can be costs as a result of those discussions, e.
g. if there is damage or defect to the existing party wall, your neighbour may have to meet a share of the cost of repair work.
If your neighbour doesn’t agree with the proposed work, you and your neighbour must appoint a surveyor (together or separately). The surveyors will then agree on a party wall award, which is a legal document stating the work that should happen, when and how it will be carried out, and who will pay for each part and how much they’ll be required to pay, including the surveyor’s fees.
Surveyors can charge between £90 and £450 per hour depending on where you live.
Can I Build a Double-Storey Extension Myself?
In short, no. You’ll definitely need to hire relevant tradespeople for certain tasks during the double storey extension build. For example, any electrical jobs will need to be signed off by a professional electrician, especially when keeping in-line with building regulations. This will go for any gas, plumbing, and structural work too.
But you can complete some jobs DIY, like painting and decorating, if you don’t mind not having a professional finish. By doing odd jobs DIY, you can save some money or spend it elsewhere.
Cost of Removing a Double-Storey Extension
If you have a dilapidated double storey extension attached to your home, you may need it removing. Firstly, you’ll need to hire labourers to demolish the extension. How much this will cost will depend on what size the extension is and how long it takes to demolish.
On average, demolishing a standard sized double storey extension will cost at least £2,500.
The cost of removing rubble and waste can cost the same, or even more than the demolition itself. You can hire skips (£250 per week, on average) or hire a grab truck to come and collect the waste for around £150-£200. Some demolition companies will offer to take the waste and include it in their overall charge.
Hiring a Double-Storey Extension Builder Checklist
A double storey extension is a huge job! Before you hire someone there are some things you should consider.
Below is a checklist for you to follow when you’re searching for double storey extension builder.
- Check for any relevant qualifications that you’d expect from that trade.
- Ask whether they have liability insurance. Liability insurance would protect you if anything were to go wrong while the work is happening.
- Discuss their previous experience. Ask if they have ever completed a job similar to what you’re requesting. Ask if they have any proof or a portfolio of their work.
- Do they offer any guarantees? So, if any problems arise in the future, you’ll be covered by a guarantee, and won’t have to fork out even more money.
- Enquire if they have knowledge on the planning permission and building regulations regarding double storey extensions.
FAQs
How Can I Reduce The Cost Of Building My Double Storey Extension?
A complex design will likely require more specialist/skilled workers, longer to build, pricier materials and longer design time by an architect.
If you keep your plan simple, you will save both money and time, though it is important that you still keep this design in keeping with the remainder of your property.
Another way to save money is to manage the project yourself – this will dramatically reduce your spend, but will take a lot of time and patience on your part. A further way to reduce costs is to do as much of the pre- and post-build work as you can. This includes preparing the site before the build, sourcing and purchasing materials, and doing the clean-up afterwards. Just be sure to speak to your contractors before doing the preparation to make sure that your preparation won’t complicate or hinder their work.
How Do I Choose The Right Contractors?
The first way is to get quotes from a number of labourers – the way these quotes are provided and how you are dealt with will give you a good idea of the company’s professionalism, and the varying quotes will give you an idea of cost. There are review websites which highlight previous customer satisfaction, and you can also ask to see a portfolio of the labourer’s previous work.
If you are unsure, a decent and reliable company will answer any queries you have, and in the example of constructors, they will do a site visit before providing a quote to speak to you and assess the area.
Is A Single, Double or Three-Storey Extension Best?
The short answer is… it depends. All three have advantages and disadvantages, and which you choose will depend on your specific circumstances. A double storey extension will allow you to add space to your upstairs and downstairs, but there are limitations on the depth of a double storey as opposed to a single storey extension (while a single storey extension can extend up to 4 metres from the edge of your existing property, a double storey can only extend up to 3m).
In a double storey extension, although the final cost of your build will be larger than for a single storey, the average cost of your build will go down – the foundations and cost of the roofing will be no different, so you are only paying for the additional internal structure, plastering, finishing etc.
So, if you’re considering having both storeys done in the future, it will work out cheaper to get them both done at the same time.
A third storey, or loft conversion, is another way to add further space while you’re getting your double storey extension built. You can have the loft of your existing property converted and connected to the loft of the new extension while all labourers are on-site, meaning you will have all the work (and mess) for only one period of time. It will also reduce costs as you will have no additional call-out charges, machinery hire etc. and the existing waste management (e.g. skips) may cover the additional work.
Will Building A Double Storey Extension Cause Me Any Problems?
With a set of detailed plans drawn up by an architect, an experienced project manager, and well researched and competent labourers, the problems with your project should be minor. There will always be issues that may arise during the build, such as ground issues (slopes, drainage, uncovered pipes), weather conditions, and sourcing of materials/equipment, but experienced project managers and labourers will be able to offer alternative solutions or prioritise different areas of the build as required.
Other issues that arise are more often than not caused by the homeowner wanting to cut corners, either by doing the work themselves, hiring cheap labour, or sourcing cheap materials. Additionally, if the homeowner changes their mind partway through the build, or has not fully conveyed their vision to the architect, then alterations mid-build will cause issues. If you have extension insurance in place, any problems caused by, and not remediated by; your contractors may be covered – you should check your policy documents in this situation. While your building work is in progress, an additional issue could be your neighbours – noise, disruption, mess, heavy goods vehicles, foot traffic, deliveries, privacy etc. can all be challenging, so it is good to discuss this with your neighbours in the beginning and keep them informed as the work progresses.
Should I Move Out While Extending?
If the builders need to have access to every room (or even most rooms) the best way to preserve your sanity and stick to timescales is to move out for a few months.
Some builders and conversion companies will simply not do the work in an occupied house in any case. A caravan in the garden is a popular option, though a hotel or short term let on another property is much quieter and more comfortable, though also more expensive. In any case you should always factor in the cost of temporary accommodation.
Will My Extension Raise My House’s Future Sale Price?
There is no fixed answer to this. The value of your house will almost certainly increase – the appeal of more living space is always a draw to potential buyers. However, the sale price may or may not increase due to the appeal of the neighbourhood and the value of local properties. Increasing your house’s value to £300,000 won’t guarantee selling it at that price if all the neighbouring properties are selling for £200,000.
Sources
https://www.gov.uk/party-walls-building-works
https://www.gov.uk/planning-permission-england-wales
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/when-is-permission-required#What-are-permitted-development-rights
http://www.
extensionbuild.co.uk/
Last updated by MyJobQuote on 7th February 2022.
Two-storey extensions: costs and planning
By Heather · 21 Apr ’22
·
3 min read
If you’re someone who doesn’t like to do things by half measures, you might be considering a two-storey extension.
While they seem dramatic, there are plenty of perks to doubling up your extension. Not only do you add a very significant amount of space (which often equates to a lot of added value to your home), the comparable price of your foundations and roof means money spent per metre square is less when compared to single-storey.
However, there are some things to consider when it comes to adding a two-storey extension. Planning can be a challenge and you’ll need more work during the building regulations stage. To help navigate your way through these challenges, we asked our designers for some super-sized tips…
How much does it cost to build a two-storey extension?
Before you invest any money, you first need to work out whether or not you can finance your entire project.
The main chunk of your money will be going into the build of your extension, as it not only covers the cost of materials but also the day-rates and overheads of your contractor. Prices at this stage can vary widely depending on the standard of work carried out.
Those on a tight budget can opt for a basic build, while those with more cash can go for high-quality or even premium. Where your project falls will depend on how good your contractor is, what materials you’re using and the intricacy of your design.
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Construction prices:
Basic build
£1500/m2 new build areas
£800/m2 refurbished areas
Standard, high-quality build
£1650/m2 new build areas
£875/m2 refurbished areas
Premium quality build
£1800/m2 new build areas
£950/m2 refurbished areas
Not sure how these prices translate for a two-storey? If you’re looking for a more general estimate, we would put this project at around £130-150K.
Other costs to bear in mind…
- Architect fees, £1000 – 5000 or 7-15% of the final estimated build cost
- Project management, 3-7% of build costs
- Planning fees, around £200
- Measured survey, £300 – 1000
- Building regulations, £2000 – 5000
- Party Wall Agreements, if required, £700-1500
- Plus fittings and interior costs
What affects prices?
Just like a rear extension, a two-storey extension often involves the rest of the house needing work and, because of it’s size, this means redeveloping the whole home. Hence why they can be so expensive.
Other factors affect your prices…
- Location.
- Size of build.
- Complexity, anything outside the norm will require more time and expertise.
- Glazing, the more glass you use will cost more in materials and from a structural perspective.
- Team used, one-man bands will be cheaper but come with risks.
Do you need planning for a two-storey extension?
In most cases, a two-storey extension won’t be covered by permitted development rights.
However, your project might be an exception if it follows these guidelines.
All projects looking to avoid needing planning permission must adhere to these permitted development rules…
On top of this, here are the rules specific to two-storey extensions…
- Extensions of more than one storey must not extend beyond the rear wall of the “original house” by more than three metres or be within seven metres of any boundary opposite the rear wall of the house.
- Roof pitch must match the existing house as far as practicable, including any upper storey built on an existing extension.
- Any upper-floor window located in a ‘side elevation’ must be obscure-glazed; and non-opening (unless the openable part is more than 1.7 metres above the floor).
Your project will also be excluded from permitted development if…
- You want to create a two-storey extension at the side of your home.
- You live on designated ground, such as a conservation area or an area of outstanding natural beauty.
If your project can’t use permitted development rights then you’ll need to make a full planning application. In order to give your home the best chance of first-time success, we recommend having an architect handle your application.
Two-storey extensions and building regulations
All extension projects are required by law to comply with UK building regulations.
These cover…
- Structure
- Fire safety
- Site preparation
- Resistance to contaminants and moisture
- Toxic substances
- Soundproofing
- Ventilation
- Hygiene
- Waste disposal
- Conservation of fuel and power
- Access
- Glazing
- Electrical safety
To make sure your home is not only legal but safe, we recommend putting together a building regulations package for your builder to work off.
Because of the scope of work involved, you’ll often need to hire several specialists to help cover all the bases.
This could include an architectural technician, structural engineer, drainage surveyor, and (if you have an affected neighbour) a party wall surveyor.
Learn more about Building Regulations.
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Double storey extensions: A guide to costs, design and types
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(Image credit: French + Tye for Bradley Van Der Straeten Architects)
While a double storey extension may seem like a much larger project to undertake than a single storey one, they’re often a more budget-efficient way to add extra space to your home and cheaper than moving house when it comes to additional rooms for a growing family.
Of course, a building an extension will also transform the look of your home in a much more meaningful way from the outside, so it’s important to design the right extension for your property.
From the planning and building regulation implications to how much it will cost to build a two storey extension, here’s everything you need to know.
A double storey house extension gives you double the living space of a single storey one, but the cost of the foundations and the roof are pretty much comparable for both build types, meaning the money spent per metre square is less with a double storey addition.
How much does a double storey extension cost?
The cost of a two-storey extension will be determined by a number of factors, including size and build quality.
Before you start planning your addition, set your extension cost budget, with the help of this list (costs supplied from Checkatrade):
- If you’re extending on tight a budget, expect to pay £1,650 – £2,100/m² for basic quality
- For a good quality double storey extension, you’ll pay between £1,830 – £2,350/m²
- For a high spec extension, calculate spending between £2,150 – £3000/m²
Bradley Van Der Straeten Architects created created a two storey box to sit on the back of the existing building that is clearly separated by a canyon of glazing, bringing natural light to the ground floor.
(Image credit: French + Tye)
On top of the build costs, you’ll need to factor in the following:
- Architects’ fees (around 3-7% of construction costs)
- Project Management (around 3-7% of build cost)
- Planning application fees (currently £206 in England for a double storey extension)
- Survey costs (between £500-1,500)
- Structural engineer (£500-1,000)
- Building control charges (up to £900 for a 80-100m² extension)
- Party Wall Agreements (£700-1,000 per neighbour if needed)
- Interior fit out costs
It is also worth noting that material and labour shortages are significantly impacting build cost up and down the country, so are continuously changing (and usually increasing). An architect or Quantity Surveyor should be able to assist in the most up-to-date figures and estimates.
Do you need planning permission for a two storey extension?
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(Image credit: Future)
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While it can be possible to build a double storey extension under Permitted Development rights, it is very likely that you will need planning permission.
In any case, it’s always worth checking with your local planning authority, but the basic rules are that planning permission will be required if the extension:
- covers more than half the area of land surrounding your home
- extends towards a road
- increases the overall height of the building
- extends more than 6m from the rear of an attached house
- extends more than 8m from the rear of a detached house
- is taller than 4m
- is more than half the width of your house
- uses different materials to those of the original house
- includes a balcony or raised veranda
Where should I build a double storey extension?
Deciding where to extend is a key consideration and will depend on the size and style of the existing house.
“Don’t forget how a two-floor extension will impact on your outside space as well,” advises Carl Huntly, Director of Base Architecture & Design. “The orientation of the extension is important to ensure that daylight is maximised externally and that no dark damp corners are created outside”
If your proposed extension affects a party wall, then make sure you give ‘Notice’ to your neighbours before starting work under the Party Wall Act.
Double storey rear extensions
For a terraced house with limited space, rear extension ideas are best suited. In this case, be careful not to reduce your garden’s size too much. A large, family home needs a garden to match.
This will also be true of semi-detached house extensions, although side extensions and wrap around extension could be possible.
Double storey side extensions
If you have room at the side of your house, side extension ideas can be better options as they will allow you to retain the majority of your garden space.
If this is the case, careful consideration needs to be given to the design of the extension, since the frontage at least will be visible from the street. Not only do you want it to be sympathetic to the original house, the planning department may make it a condition. An experienced architect will be able to advise what you can and can’t do.
Double storey wrap around extensions
A combination of rear and side extensions, wrap around extensions can give you the opportunity to reconfigure the entire layout and transform the way you live in your home. It’s a great way to really change how your house looks from the outside too.
Does a double storey extension need to comply with Building Regulations?
Any extension project will need to comply with the Building Regulations. You will need to submit an application for the work to your local authority’s building control department.
Some contractors are building control certified, meaning they can carry out work without the need for involving the building control department.
These homeowners have doubled the size of their run-down cottage with a complimentary contemporary-style extension, designed by CaSA Architects . (Image credit: Simon Maxwell)
Do I need an architect for an extension?
While you don’t need an architect for an extension project, for one which will impact so many areas in a home and require so much consideration around structure, layout and particular it is generally advised to hire an architect or architectural designer for a double storey project.
As with a single storey extension, you need consider your needs carefully before you start. Even small house extension ideas can make a huge impact to a home’s layout when considering two storeys.
If the ground floor is going to be home to your new kitchen, do you need a separate utility room or cloakroom? Do you need more storage space that is best factored in at the design stage?
When it comes to the second storey, if you’re taking a two-bedroom house to a three-bedroom house, you can realistically do without another bathroom; but if you’re taking a three bedroom house up to a four or five-bedroom house with your new extension, it will be more than worthwhile making space for an additional bathroom, shower room or at least a wet room, too.
Consider how to blend the extension with the existing home to ensure a cohesive interior space. You can do this by matching floor and ceiling levels between the new and existing space, as well as choosing the same decorative elements, such as mouldings, door furniture and colour schemes throughout.
You may also have to reconfigure the layout of the upstairs hallway to make access to the new rooms feel natural. The key is not to compromise existing rooms too much to create the new spaces.
How big can my double storey extension be?
If you want your double storey extension to fall under Permitted Development rights, there are certain criteria the design must meet in terms of height and footprint (explained above), although there are discussions to change the planning regulations in this area.
If you’re applying for full planning permission, there are other considerations one must make in terms of the design, shape and space.
The footprint of a double storey extension
“Extending to the full potential of the site will generally need the upper level to be stepped back if you do not want your development to be refused on the grounds of being ‘unneighbourly, overbearing and out of keeping’,” says Adrian Garcia, from Adrian Garcia Architects.
Planning rules limit how far a double storey extension can project, and how close it can be to your property’s boundary, so as to prevent a loss of light to neighbouring properties.
It must project no further back than a line set at 45 degrees horizontally from the centre of neighbouring windows — the so-called ‘sight lines’.
How tall can a double storey extension be?
“Planning authorities typically look for an extension to be subservient to the existing dwelling, so two-storey extensions may need lower roofs,” warns Base Architecture’s Carl Huntly.
Planners usually require extensions to be sympathetic to the existing house, particularly in designated areas such as conservation areas. As such it’s fairly typical that the ridge height of the extension can be no higher than the existing roof.
If your existing house is on the small side, this can present a challenge when building an extension tall enough to include two full (2.4m) storeys.
There are ways around this, such as designing upstairs rooms with lower ceiling heights or integrating them into a pitched roof space. You could also have the extension dug down into the ground, resulting in a basement level or split-level design which can work well on a sloping site.
Double storey extension roof design
“With regards to roofs and sight lines, when we have proposed extensions, we may well keep the height of the new volume low,” adda Darren Bray, founder of Studio B.a.D. “So proposing a flat roof against the existing is a good device to mark the difference between old and new.”
Designing the extension with a series of small, intersecting traditional pitched roofs can give you much-needed ceiling height, too.
This contemporary double storey extension to a granite farmhouse in rural Aberdeenshire, designed by David Wilson of Room Architects , is clad in larch and features expansive glazing from Velfac .
(Image credit: Nigel Rigden)
Calculate your build costs
See how much it will cost to add an extension to your home with our Extension Cost Calculator.
Materials in a double storey extension
The position, size and shape of doors and windows to capture the best of the daylight and the views of the garden can mean that even when building an extension on a tight budget, you can achieve a stunning space.
Choosing bifold doors is also a great way to bring the outside in. Blending indoor and outdoor spaces can make both spaces feel bigger and more cohesive.
As well as bringing in light with bi-old doors, continuous flooring creates the illusion of one space — think stone floors that run from the kitchen out onto a patio. Finally, consider interior and exterior materials – from wall treatments to planting – because the more harmonious they are, the more successful your extension will be overall.
If you are building a complementary extension, choosing materials that match those used on the original house can make your extension look like it’s always been there.
But if it’s not possible to match the materials, it may be better to choose a striking, contrasting design which can work just as well, and is sometimes more acceptable to planning departments.
This oak frame (the frame was provided by English Oak Buildings ), two storey extension has transformed a tired looking bungalow on a generous plot.
(Image credit: English Oak Buildings)
An experienced homes journalist and editor, Lucy has written about renovation, property and gardens since 1990, first working her way around the interiors departments of women’s magazines before switching to interiors-only titles in the mid-nineties. She was Associate Editor on Ideal Home, and Launch Editor of 4Homes magazine, before moving into digital in 2007, launching Channel 4’s flagship website, Channel4.com/4homes.
In 2018, she became Global Editor in Chief for sister website Realhomes.com, taking the site to a global success. She is now Global Editor in Chief of Homebuilding’s sister site Homes & Gardens.
She is also a serial renovator and owns rental properties.
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Two-story extension to a turnkey house in Moscow
A two-story extension to a private house can greatly increase the main area of a suburban building. It turns out at least two additional rooms, and in many cases even more. Our organization knows how to do such construction work with high quality, and therefore is ready to offer you to build such a turnkey facility in Moscow or the Moscow region. Call first by phone 8 (926) 055-69-10 to get preliminary information of interest.
The technology of building such an object in our region has separate methods:
- Frame method of assembling walls;
- Aerated concrete building;
- Panel construction;
- Building from prefabricated modules.
Our organization prefers to build extensions from aerated concrete and frame. This is in our opinion the most profitable investment of their money. Together, then, together with construction work, you can get an object of decent quality, the service life of which will be at least 30 years.
Technology of work from foundation to finishing
To build a two-story extension, you need to do a number of separate works. In addition, it is important to prepare the technical component of the object – this is an action that partly determines the result of the turnkey work carried out later as a whole. In addition, it is also necessary to conduct an examination of the house for the presence of defects there, which, if detected, will have to be corrected.
Next, we list the main stages of work that need to be done in the manufacture of such objects:
- Foundation installation and repair;
- Assembly of the frame of load-bearing walls and partitions;
- Roof installation;
- Fine finishing of walls from the street side;
- Installation of windows and doors;
- Wall insulation;
- Manufacture of floors;
- Interior wall and ceiling finishes;
- Arrangement of an extension – connection of heating and electricity.
Try to build a foundation similar to that of the main house. It is necessary to understand well what properties the soil has, as well as what happens to it when it freezes. Screw piles and concrete tape, for example, do not interact exactly the same with each other, and therefore this must be taken into account before starting to build the foundation for an extension.
The roof configuration of a two-story extension is usually copied from the main house, or a separate cut is made there.
Basically, this is a gable shape, but sometimes simpler technical solutions can be observed. The tie-in of skylights and the manufacture of bay windows significantly complicates projects. You can also grab onto the current skate and turn the corner, as shown in the photographs of one of the objects taken in 2017.
Construction of the main extension box and roof
Walls, as we said above, can be built from aerated concrete or a wooden frame. It turns out to be warmer to carry out frame construction, while aerated concrete must always be additionally insulated. Its thickness is not enough for winter living, and therefore any fine finish will not help solve the problem with heat in the room. Although if a seasonal option is considered, or a temporary stay in the house, then it will be possible to do without wall insulation.
In addition to walls and a roof, a floor and a ceiling are being built at the extension of two floors. The floor, depending on the foundation device, can be wooden or concrete.
Specialists should offer different ways of working even at the design stage of the object, so that later in the process the client does not have a desire to do it differently. As a rule, it may be too late to make individual adjustments to production at a certain stage.
The video shows how you can build an extension. This method is also in demand – it allows you to freely place inside the stairs from the first to the second floor. In addition, a full-fledged room is obtained from above – the area of \u200b\u200bthe first floor completely passes to the second. This is one of the best technical solutions that can be offered to the client in modern private construction.
Windows for an extension must be installed custom-made and always two-chamber. There should be three glasses – this will help get rid of the condensate. It is important to make the floors insulated. Often people prefer to make additional insulation in the form of laying mats or installing a water-heated floor.
This is especially true when it is planned to install ceramic tiles on the floors. As we said above, this should be discussed in advance.
A two-story frame extension to a country house is always additionally finished with modern material after its construction. In any case, there is always a lot of different work that requires the use of building material. This, of course, then greatly affects the final cost of the order – the more refined the customer’s wishes, the higher the cost of work and materials. But do not be afraid of this – you can freely choose the optimal technical solution, which perfectly harmonizes the ratio of price and quality.
Garage project 3.6 x 8.4 m – with extension
Garage project 3.6 x 8.4 m – with extension – Swedish metal garage in the country – in a week!
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- Garage project 3.6 x 8.4 m – with extension
org/ListItem”> Garage projects
- Garage for 1 car
- Garage for 2 cars
- Double garage
- Garage with a canopy
- Garage with hozblok
Garage based on a metal frame with a side extension – a canopy. Garage project for one car – a complete set of materials, photos, current prices.
Individual garage design based on the standard 3.6 x 8.4 m. Added side extension – shed. The outer walls are finished with light plaster – the color of the walls of the house.
A classic Swedish garage 3.6 x 8.4 m is needed when the size for one car does not suit you and when you also need a utility block.
A very practical approach to the arrangement of the site, when in one place there is both a garage and an additional place for household needs. On the platform along the canopy, you can arrange a gazebo or an open storage area with protection from the rain.
Built projects
Scheme
Views
Price for materials and installation
| Complete set | Components | Set price | Turnkey price |
| Basic version |
|
RUB 795,000 | RUB 1,074,000 |
Extended version
|
RUB 859,000 | RUB 1,160,000 | |
Base insulated
|
RUB 895,000 | RUB 1,209,000 | |
Warm version
|
950 000 RUB | 1 283 000 rub |
Foundation and transportation costs are calculated separately, more about construction on the page – Construction of garage
Garage equipment
9000 ,4 is insulated with a layer of 100 mm.
Gate section with the automatic drive. It has one large window to the main room, and one small window to the utility block. The garage has two entrances – to the car and to a separate room.
Also installed metal tiles made in Russia, with color 8017 on the roof and a metal gutter system.
Shelving for items or wheels can be added as an option. It is very comfortable. The racks are made of painted metal and have durable shelves.
Shelving details
Photo of a plastered garage
Garage canopy and doors
Large window
Sectional doors
garage interior
corrugated board s-8
Metal rack for wheels
Purpose of the garage
In addition to the car in the garage, a lot of things can be stored in the hozblok.
In the hozblok, you can equip a place for buckets, shovels, rakes, walk-behind tractors and things for cars. Can store bicycles and other small items.
In our case, a shed is attached to the garage. Such an element for the garage is not accidental. It, at large sizes, can be used as a canopy for a car or a moped, for example. In this form, the canopy will be used as a place where you can put a table and chairs. It turns out that in this building everything is done according to the 3 in 1 principle – a garage, a utility block and a veranda.
Park the car, open the hoblock, take the barbecue and enjoy nature on the veranda.
Finishing a metal garage
Finishing a garage in this project, the insulation is “under plaster”. This is done because the main house is plastered in white. The garage in the same color fits perfectly into the style of the house.
Also available in corrugated board, wood and stone look metal siding, plinth siding and vinyl siding.
Monuments of history and culture of the Pskov region
Internal error
org.springframework.beans.TypeMismatchException: Failed to convert value of type ‘java.lang.String’ to required type ‘java.lang.Long’; nested exception is org.springframework.core.convert.ConversionFailedException: Unable to convert value “104382408?lc=ru” from type ‘java.lang.String’ to type ‘java.lang.Long’; nested exception is java.lang.NumberFormatException: For input string: “104382408?lc=ru”
at org.springframework.beans.SimpleTypeConverter.convertIfNecessary(SimpleTypeConverter.java:55)
at org.springframework.validation.DataBinder.convertIfNecessary(DataBinder.java:534)
at org.springframework.web.bind.annotation.support.HandlerMethodInvoker.resolvePathVariable(HandlerMethodInvoker.java:705)
at org.springframework.web.bind.annotation.support.HandlerMethodInvoker.resolveHandlerArguments(HandlerMethodInvoker.java:352)
at org.
springframework.web.bind.annotation.support.HandlerMethodInvoker.invokeHandlerMethod(HandlerMethodInvoker.java:171)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.mvc.annotation.AnnotationMethodHandlerAdapter.invokeHandlerMethod(AnnotationMethodHandlerAdapter.java:426)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.mvc.annotation.AnnotationMethodHandlerAdapter.handle(AnnotationMethodHandlerAdapter.java:414)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.DispatcherServlet.doDispatch(DispatcherServlet.java:790)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.DispatcherServlet.doService(DispatcherServlet.java:719)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.FrameworkServlet.processRequest(FrameworkServlet.java:644)
at org.springframework.web.servlet.FrameworkServlet.doGet(FrameworkServlet.java:549)
at javax.servlet.http.HttpServlet.service(HttpServlet.java:617)
at javax.servlet.http.HttpServlet.service(HttpServlet.java:717)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.internalDoFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:290)
at org.apache.catalina.
core.ApplicationFilterChain.doFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:206)
at org.springframework.web.filter.HiddenHttpMethodFilter.doFilterInternal(HiddenHttpMethodFilter.java:77)
at org.springframework.web.filter.OncePerRequestFilter.doFilter(OncePerRequestFilter.java:76)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.internalDoFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:235)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.doFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:206)
at com.altsoft.kaisa_internet.kaisa_internet_core.util.GZIPFilter.doFilter(GZIPFilter.java:40)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.internalDoFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:235)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.doFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:206)
at com.altsoft.kaisa_internet.kaisa_internet_core.util.RequestFilter.doFilter(RequestFilter.java:28)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.internalDoFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:235)
at org.apache.catalina.core.ApplicationFilterChain.
doFilter(ApplicationFilterChain.java:206)
at org.apache.catalina.core.StandardWrapperValve.invoke(StandardWrapperValve.java:233)
at org.apache.catalina.core.StandardContextValve.invoke(StandardContextValve.java:19one)
at org.apache.catalina.core.StandardHostValve.invoke(StandardHostValve.java:127)
at org.apache.catalina.valves.ErrorReportValve.invoke(ErrorReportValve.java:102)
at org.apache.catalina.core.StandardEngineValve.invoke(StandardEngineValve.java:109)
at org.apache.catalina.connector.CoyoteAdapter.service(CoyoteAdapter.java:293)
at org.apache.coyote.ajp.AjpAprProcessor.process(AjpAprProcessor.java:448)
at org.apache.coyote.ajp.AjpAprProtocol$AjpConnectionHandler.process(AjpAprProtocol.java:399)
at org.apache.tomcat.util.net.AprEndpoint$Worker.run(AprEndpoint.java:1675)
at java.lang.Thread.run(Thread.java:724)
Caused by: org.springframework.core.convert.ConversionFailedException: Unable to convert value “104382408?lc=ru” from type ‘java.lang.String’ to type ‘java.lang.Long’; nested exception is java.
lang.NumberFormatException: For input string: “104382408?lc=ru”
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.ConversionUtils.invokeConverter(ConversionUtils.java:42)
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.GenericConversionService.convert(GenericConversionService.java:184)
at org.springframework.beans.TypeConverterDelegate.convertIfNecessary(TypeConverterDelegate.java:141)
at org.springframework.beans.TypeConverterDelegate.convertIfNecessary(TypeConverterDelegate.java:93)
at org.springframework.beans.SimpleTypeConverter.convertIfNecessary(SimpleTypeConverter.java:49)
… 34 more
Caused by: java.lang.NumberFormatException: For input string: “104382408?lc=en”
at java.lang.NumberFormatException.forInputString(NumberFormatException.java:65)
at java.lang.Long.parseLong(Long.java:441)
at java.lang.Long.valueOf(Long.java:540)
at org.springframework.util.NumberUtils.parseNumber(NumberUtils.java:158)
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.StringToNumberConverterFactory$StringToNumber.convert(StringToNumberConverterFactory.
java:59)
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.StringToNumberConverterFactory$StringToNumber.convert(StringToNumberConverterFactory.java:1)
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.GenericConversionService$ConverterFactoryAdapter.convert(GenericConversionService.java:528)
at org.springframework.core.convert.support.ConversionUtils.invokeConverter(ConversionUtils.java:36)
… 38 more
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sloping-roof house extension
Article content
Two-story sloping-roof house extension
Two-story extension to the house with a sloping roof 6×6:
– The base of the extension is a timber 150×150 mm.
– Overall size – 6000×6000 mm.
– Floor – grooved floorboard 28mm, subfloor – edged board 25×100
– Frame base timber 100x100mm
– Ceilings – wooden beams 50x200mm with a step of 60cm siding.
– Interior finish – softwood lining class B.
– Ceiling decoration – coniferous lining, class B.
– Roof of the extension – painted profiled sheet (it is possible to replace it with metal tiles)
– Roof type – gable
– Doors – frame 80 cm x 200 cm.
– Windows – 75×90 or 60×40 mm wooden
– Foundation – screw piles recommended
– Outside treated with antiseptic
Additional options: You can also order the insulation of the extension. Interior and exterior finishes. Replacement of roofing material. Replacement of windows and doors at your discretion. Roofing and more.
The price includes installation on your site. Not including transport costs. The foundation is also calculated individually.
Two-story frame extension – will increase your living space. Keep the house warm. Decorate the look of your home. . The dimensions of the extension can be changed according to your desire. You can order any extension from our specialists by phone, without visiting the office. All documents will be delivered directly to your home.
Two-story frame extension – built to order, not expensive and in the shortest possible time.
How to make a roof on an extension to a house – rules and methods for shed and broken roofs
Quite often, an extension to an already built house is required, which will serve for household needs or as a summer recreation area. Further in the article we will talk about how to make a roof on an extension to the house, what tools and materials may be needed, and in what order the construction work should be carried out.
Calculation of the slope of a pitched roof
In terms of construction, the shed roof is considered the simplest. However, even this type of extension roof requires some preparatory work. The first thing to do is to complete the roof project. At this stage, a drawing is drawn up, which indicates the planned slope of the slope.
It is worth noting that the slope of the roof directly affects the efficiency of its functioning, as well as the durability of the roofing.
Of course, competent calculations will significantly simplify and speed up construction. The amount of roofing material used for a shed roof extension will increase as the pitch angle increases.
The calculation of the slope will depend primarily on the climatic conditions in a particular region. This angle will be steeper, the more precipitation is expected in winter in a particular region. A correctly selected value will allow timely and fully to remove rain and snow from the roof surface. At the same time, if a particular area is characterized by strong gusty winds, the slopes should not be made too steep.
The roofing material that will cover the extension to the house with a sloping roof also affects the slope:
- for slate or tiled roofs must be between 22º;
- roofing material, laid in 2 layers, assumes a minimum slope of 5º, and in 3 layers – from 15º;
- the slope of the corrugated roof must be at least 12º;
- metal-tiled roofs can have slopes from 14º;
- ondulin, like roofing material, is laid on slopes with a minimum slope of 6º;
- soft tiles are mounted on roofs with slopes inclined at least 11º.
Common practice shows that the maximum roof slope of an extension to a pitched roof is 45º. It is worth noting that the choice of the angle of inclination of the roof will largely be influenced by the expected loads on the truss system exerted by wind and precipitation. A design error can result in additional costs if the extension falls due to excessive loads.
Materials Needed for a Shed Roof
Shed Roof Shed Roof System is made from wood beams over which the roofing is laid (read: How to DIY Shed Roof Shed Roof Shed). The frame is made of hardwood, which has been carefully dried, treated with antiseptics and a primer. Additionally, it is worth opening all wooden elements with flame retardants. Such processing can significantly extend the life of the truss system.
So, to create a roof over the extension you will need:
- bars for rafters, supports and other structural elements;
- edged board for sheathing ends and purlins;
- waterproofing and insulation material;
- roofing.
As far as roofing is concerned, as a rule, a gable roof with an extension is covered with the same type of material. At the same time, each owner proceeds, first of all, from his own material possibilities.
The thickness of the beams will depend on the expected rain and snow loads, as well as the total weight of the roofing material. In this case, beams with dimensions between 120×120 mm and 150×150 mm can be used.
- electric saw or saw;
- drill;
- axe;
- screwdriver;
- knife;
- hammer and furniture stapler;
- nails and screws;
- roulette and level.
The consumption of self-tapping screws or nails is 8-10 pieces per 1 m 2 . As for the material for insulation and waterproofing, a margin of 10-15% is added to the total surface area for joining, cutting and overlapping. The calculation of the rafters is performed based on the maximum distance between them of 1 m.
Installation sequence
If the preliminary project did not provide for the arrangement of a house with an extension under one roof, it is worth taking care that there is a gap of at least 5 cm between the roof of the main building and the additional room. In addition, it is important to correctly bind the extension to the wall of the main house so that rain or snow does not seep into the gap.
To attach the roof of the extension to the house as securely as possible, the construction must begin with the laying of the mauerlat. It should be the thicker, the steeper the slope of the slope and the heavier the roofing.
This beam should be fixed to the walls as firmly as possible, since rafter legs will later be attached to it where the walls of the main house and the annex will join. In this case, the installation of rafters is carried out in pre-made grooves in the Mauerlat. Between adjacent rafters there may be a distance of 60-80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.
Please note that the slope of all rafter legs must be the same. Otherwise, due to distortions, water will flow under the roofing material and destroy wooden structures.
Upon completion of the construction of the truss system, insulation work begins. In cases where the length of the rafters is too large, additional supporting elements are placed between them. On top of them, perpendicular to the rafters, a plastic film, roofing felt or other material for waterproofing is spread. To ensure tightness, the insulation is laid with an overlap and the joints are glued with construction tape. The roofing material is fixed on the rafters with a stapler.
How to connect the roof to the wall
The junction of the walls of the house and the roof above the extension is additionally sealed to prevent water from leaking into the cracks. At this stage, you should also decide how to connect the roofs of the house and extensions. First, the top layer of roofing material is rolled out over the surface of the extension roof and heated with a blowtorch.
After that, the material is glued to the main wall.
The next step is to attach the batten over the waterproofing layer. It is fixed perpendicular to the rafter legs from a 5 × 5 cm rail. The pitch of the crate is selected based on the type of roofing. If it is a solid material, then each sheet must be supported by at least two bars. For soft roofing, a continuous crate of particle boards or edged boards is stuffed.
The final stage of the construction of the roof over the outbuilding is the installation of the roofing. The method of its laying depends on the type of material. Always make sure that the coating is laid in a continuous layer without gaps. In conclusion, the side parts of the roof are sewn up with an edged board.
Is it necessary to insulate the roof of the extension
Work on the insulation of the roof over the extension allows you to reduce heat loss, as well as increase the efficiency of heating, if it is provided in such a room.
In order to perform insulation work, it is necessary to make a draft ceiling before installing the waterproofing layer. The selected insulating material is laid on it, covered with a layer of waterproofing, and then all other installation work is already performed.
From the inside, such a ceiling can be sheathed with plasterboard or moisture-resistant plywood. Do not forget to also insulate the ends of the roof to reduce heat loss due to side winds. In this case, any available material can be used.
External decor of the end parts of the roof above the extension can be made with any finishing materials of your choice.
Roof-to-roof extension – installation instructions
Some may think that the extension is a utility room, and no special creativity is needed when arranging the roof. But there are also such extensions that overshadow the house itself with its beauty and functionality. And it is for these reasons that the upper part of the building above them can be different: both single-pitched and multi-pitched.
In principle, an extension is built not only to expand the living space, but also to equip a summer veranda or kitchen , and therefore they often equip a simple shed structure above them.
But if you need to add a large room to the house, even exceeding the area of the main building, then the arrangement of a broken type of roof will be quite reasonable.
Gable is suitable for verandas or summer terraces when you need to expand the main area or equip an additional place to relax. So the choice of design depends on the functionality of the attached premises.
Annex roof requirements:
- It cannot be a single structure with a residential building;
- Provision is made for a slight setback from newly built walls;
- Roofing material is overlapped to ensure water tightness;
- Since the extension will be located below the level of the main building, all precipitation will roll onto it, so the requirements for waterproofing are very stringent.
Roof assembly
Durability and comfort in the room will depend on how durable and high-quality the roofing over the extension will be.
Consider a single-pitched version, with the arrangement of a simple truss system:
- Specify the slope of the structure: if it is large, it will be difficult to install the roofing material, and if it is small, precipitation can break through the coating;
- We lay the main mounting beam on which the rafter system will rest: along the edge of the load-bearing wall of the extension. Approximately at a distance of 1 meter, markings are made for attaching the rafters, then with the help of anchor wedges they are fastened along the lower base and upper harness. It is best to start with the extreme rafters: having strengthened them, it will be easier to carry out the installation of subsequent ones;
- We equip the crate for waterproofing, the selected material is laid on it;
- If a warm extension is being built, then the roof should also be insulated with plywood or wooden sheets, mineral wool.
A layer of insulation is placed under the rafters and the crate;
- The roofing material can now be laid.
Installation of the double slope version:
- Again, you need to start with the arrangement of the rafters. If it is planned to allocate space for the attic, then it is necessary to immediately determine its dimensions and install separate racks for fixing the walls;
- A rafter system frame is installed along the load-bearing walls, it is attached to the base of the building;
The rafters themselves are fastened in pairs, stitched together with studs or anchor fittings; - After that, they proceed to the arrangement of the crate for roofing material, the installation of the roof ridge;
- Upon completion of this work, a waterproofing layer must be laid, over which the main roofing material can be laid.
An extension to a house with a sloping roof
Arrangement of this type is a little more expensive than the previous options, but the building itself will be much more functional: under such a roof, you can also build an attic, additional room, which is especially important for a large family.
The peculiarity of this design in a two-stage truss system: first, the lower tier is mounted, a frame for the second tier is installed on it, and then everything is assembled under one ridge.
The steps are practically the same as for the arrangement of other types: after the installation of the rafters, the crate, waterproofing and roofing material are prepared.
Roof of an extension to a wooden house
0104
- First you need to determine the angle of inclination, and what material will be covered: for example, slate is heavy in itself, and it needs a strong rafter system.
- For the arrangement of multi-level structures of the house and extension, the roof of the latter must be lower than the main cover.
- If it is planned to build an additional area, then the truss system should be raised above the general structure. If not, then you can’t do it. For rafters, a durable and antiseptic-treated material is chosen.
- Fasteners are carried out with construction studs or anchor constipation of all parts.
- Lathing being constructed. If a warm room is provided, then a heater is laid under it, otherwise not. If it is planned to lay soft roofing material, then dense plywood panels are placed instead of the crate. And the distance between the boards of the crate for sheet material is determined by the size of the sheets themselves.
- Waterproofing materials are attached directly to the rafters with an overlap. For these purposes, ordinary roofing felt rolls are well suited, but materials treated with antiseptics can also be used.
- Equip roof overhangs: they should move away from the walls of the building by about 10 cm, sheathe them with the necessary material, in harmony with the general appearance of both the house and the extension.
- At the end of the installation, anti-wind boards or metal strips are nailed to the ends: the roof will not vibrate from gusts of wind.
Peculiarities of arrangement of shed roofs on an extension
When carrying out work, the following points should be taken into account:
- Rainfall from the roof of the extension should not fall under the residential building: it is equipped right next to the main building;
- If there is heavy snowfall in winter, then I roll with a large angle;
- Outline the location of the drainage system on both roofs;
- It is important to determine the required docking point of the buildings: in this way, reduce the overall load on the junction.
Insulation procedure
To ensure a comfortable environment, it is necessary to approach the insulation thoroughly. Be sure to choose high-quality materials and take into account design features.
The insulation procedure consists of several steps:
- Installation of the hydrobarrier layer:
- Insulation layers;
- Arrangement of vapor barrier;
- Arrangement of gaps for self-ventilation;
- Interior finishing works.
- There are several ways to insulate:
- Between rafter system;
- Directly under roofing material;
- Internal insulation of the mansard roof.
The first method usually uses mineral wool as insulation. First, a layer of waterproofing material, such as a membrane, is laid throughout the truss system. Please note: on the one hand, it is treated with a composition that does not allow moisture to pass through, and on the other, with a vapor barrier layer. Therefore, a layer of mineral wool is covered with the side where there is impregnation from moisture.
Start with the bottom layer. Layers of cotton wool overlap, fasten with construction tape. But the membrane should be mounted at intervals of 0.5-1 cm: it, like other materials, has the same physical properties: it shrinks at low temperatures. You can fasten it with a stapler or rust-treated nails. Now they are equipping ventilation gaps: this is how excess moisture will evaporate. The waterproofing is fixed with a lattice of thin laths, and it itself is also nailed with stainless nails.
The insulation does not need to be laid immediately, is first allowed to take on a slightly horizontal shape. After some time, mineral wool is cut into small canvases, which will be laid between the rafters. At the end of the layout, the cotton wool is covered with plastic wrap, the material is overlapped.
If laid on top of the truss system, then you should use sheets of expanded polystyrene, under which it is necessary to equip the base, which is done as follows:
- Light building material is nailed to the rafters: plywood sheets, thin boards, they will serve as the basis for laying the heat-insulating layer.
- A vapor-tight membrane is attached to the wooden base, but you can do without it.
- The insulation sheets can now be laid and attached. Move on to laying the roofing material.
- All works are available to a simple layman, there is no difficulty in them, you just need to follow the order of work, and the roof of the extension will last a long time.
Departmental information
Object of cultural heritage of federal significance “Dwelling house (village), XIX century.”
Dating:
1868
History:
According to the city BTI, the house was built in 1868. Field surveys and architectural and stylistic analysis of the decorative processing of its facades do not contradict this date. According to the stories of local residents, the house was built by the merchant of the 1st guild Sitnikov.
Description:
A detached two-storey wooden house was placed along the red line of Gertsen Street. The building was cut “in the cloud” with the rest, the log house was placed on a brick plinth /brick size 25×11.5/12/x8 cm, laying a verst, lime mortar, a seam with trimming, plastered/. The facades are entwined with narrow profiled boards and painted light brown, the window frames are whitewashed. To the low “L”-shaped in terms of the volume of the building on the western side adjoins a rectangular two-story extension, from the north-western corner there is a cold canopy with a covered! balcony above the entrance. The compositional construction of the facades /northern and western/, having a three-part division is close to the methods of late classicism, the decorative design of the architraves, made in the technique of sawn carving, is Russian, in the native style. The most impressive look is the main, northern facade. Its central part is highlighted by a small projection of a risalit in three light axes. The corners are processed with floor-by-floor blades, on the second floor they are decorated with paired columns. The window openings of the risalit on the first and second floors are coiled into arched niches, the archivolts of which are decorated with carvings and finials, and the tympanums with a fan-shaped rosette. The window openings of the side parts on the first floor have a gable finish, richly decorated with carvings; on the second floor, simplified shelf-shaped sandriks are placed above the windows.
Sandriks in the lower part of the windows are decorated with carved inserts.
The side parts of the architraves in the form of elegant chiselled semi-columns are completed with carved consoles. The central axis of the façade is accentuated by a stepped attic, with a gable finish and richly decorated with carvings. The decoration of the rest of the facades looks more modest, the architraves of the windows of the second floor repeat the decoration of the windows of the side parts of the second floor of the northern facade. The window openings of the first floor of the western and eastern facades, as well as the windows of both floors of the southern, courtyard facade have simple frame architraves. In the center of the eastern facade on the second floor there is a triple window, the western one is completed with a low pediment, the tympanum of which is cut through by a semicircular attic window, and the central part is highlighted by a risalit in three light axes. Horizontally, the volume of the building is divided by window sills. The upper part of the walls, interpreted as a wide smooth entablature with a band of panels, is cut off from the floor of the wall by a cornice. The roof of the truss structure with a large extension is covered with iron along the crate.
The entrance to the building is placed in the northwest corner from the street. Above the entrance is a covered balcony, decorated with sawn carvings and completed with a gable roof in the center. The roof of the balcony is supported by four pillars, between which a balustrade is placed. Under the balcony there are two doors, one of which leads to the first floor, the other – to a two-flight wooden staircase. Paneled double-leaf doors have large inserts, the upper ones are cut through with slit-like windows. The first floor, which was rented out, is divided into two halves by a main wall. In the western larger half, different-sized rooms are grouped around an almost square entrance hall. The entrance to the eastern half is also from the street, but is located in the central part of the eastern facade. The transverse wall divides the eastern, smaller half of the first floor into two interconnected rooms. On the second floor, a small, almost square entrance hall and a narrow corridor separate a suite of three rooms located along the northern facade. Rooms located along the southern and eastern facade, separate or adjacent to each other. On the first floor, stoves decorated with pilasters and arched niches have been preserved, the stove in the northeast room of the second floor is lined with white tiles /tile size 23.5×43.5 cm./. Enfilade doors with semi-circular endings, doors leading to the hallway and corridor are paneled, double-leaf, rectangular. Seamless plaster cornices have been preserved in the rooms of both floors. In the southwestern part, in the extension, there is a single-flight “black” staircase leading to the courtyard. The ceilings on all floors are flat, the floors are painted wooden.
General assessment of the social, scientific, historical and artistic significance of the monument:
Built in the middle of the 19th century, the building is an example of residential merchant buildings typical of Vologda. The monument, typical for its time, is a two-story house for three apartments with richly carved architraves and a balcony above the entrance of the second floor.
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Temple in honor of the Intercession of the Holy Mother of God (Protection Cathedral)
Intercession Cathedral is located in the former fortress, on the highest point of the city, plays an important role in its silhouette. The wooden church is mentioned in the documents of 1603 and 1613. Glafira Alymova) a modern building was erected. Yevstrat Alymov was awarded a letter of Peter I in 1700 “for the service of his ancestors and his father” and died around 1743. In 1798 the church became a parish; at 179In 9 AD, its hipped bell tower was dismantled, later four side domes were lost, and an extensive two-story extension with a wooden bell tower was made to the refectory. In the 1930s the bell tower and the central dome are lost. In 1974, the temple was restored (architect E.M. Kodisova).
Traditions of the 17th century are intertwined in the architecture of the monument. with new “Naryshkin” techniques at the turn of the 17th-18th centuries. Characteristic for its time, a pillarless, five-domed, two-story church (at the bottom is the warm Church of Alexei Metropolitan, at the top is the cold Intercession) with brick walls washed with plaster. The two-tiered volume, strongly elongated along the longitudinal axis, consists of the main quadrangle, rising above a developed altar with three apses and a relatively short refectory, which is significantly lengthened by an extension. The traditional three-part compositional scheme is violated by the unusual form of five domes with the setting of small domes around the central one on the cardinal points, which is typical for Ukrainian architecture. The picturesque decoration of the facades, based on the few details used, is facilitated by the asymmetric placement of openings. At the corners of the volumes in the lower tier are paired semi-columns, in the upper tier there are simple shoulder blades, a basement and interfloor belts, as well as a more elegant wide veneered cornice with four rows of “saws” and towns – all these forms date back to the middle. 17th century Three side portals with half-columns broken by melons and with keeled archivolts also look archaic. Two of them, located on the northern and southern facades and strongly shifted from their axis, lead to the lower temple, and the third, at the level of the second tier of the northern facade, apparently had an outer porch with a wooden staircase-sprout. At the same time, window architraves with semi-columns and torn pediments are made in the forms of the “Naryshkin” baroque.
In the interior, the main rooms on both floors are connected with the refectory and the altar by one or three openings. The lower and upper refectories, the lower church, as well as the altars are covered with box vaults, the upper church is covered with a closed vault with a light drum in the center. All vaults with demoulding over openings; the ceilings of the extension are flat, beamed.
Archpriest of the Pokrovsky Cathedral was Alexei Konstantinov, father of the librarian Catherine II and son-in-law M.V. Lomonosov, married to his only daughter Elena Alexei Alekseevich (1728-1808).
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