Room framing: How to Build a Wall in an Existing Home

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How to Build a Wall in an Existing Home

Learn how to frame a wall and how to build a wall in an existing home that is already constructed! This how to build an interior wall tutorial shares the steps and lessons learned with framing a non-load-bearing wall.

I can’t believe we did it, but Brandon and I built a wall ourselves! We actually built TWO walls! One large wall and then a smaller, corner wall with an interior window – what?!

Let me explain the back story on why we built these walls ourselves instead of hiring it out…

Why we needed to build a wall

When we bought our new home this past summer, one of the first projects we new we needed to tackle was building an interior wall to create an office space.

Our home has an extra bonus space that’s open and connected to our living room, dining room, and back door. The space just made no sense to me and it was obvious it needed a wall to close off the space from the back door and dining room.

We use this space often for our home office and I was getting really tired of it being open to the main living area. I also wanted to create another function with the space by adding either a guest bed (like a murphy bed) or a play area for our kids.

By adding a wall we could then create two functions with the space by having it enclosed.

Why we chose not to hire out

We originally wanted to hire this project out. We have never built a wall nor framed a wall out before. And I really had no interest in learning…at first!

Brandon and I have completed a lot of DIY and home improvement projects, but something about building a wall and framing a wall seemed a bit intimidating.

But after trying to find a reliable and affordable contractor to install our new flooring, we both wanted to avoid that major headache again. That project also ended up costing way more than we were originally quoted.

Further, the cost for home renovations these days is expensive. Contractors are in high demand, especially the good quality ones and you have to wait a while for them to even start, plus the time for them to finish.

I really can’t stand depending on others for home improvement projects when I know I can do something quicker, cheaper, and the way I want it (most of the time)….hence why I DIY haha!

Plus, with all of our furniture and things already being in our home, I knew that I would keep the space cleaner throughout the construction phase than any contractor would.

Who wants construction dust all over their house and furniture? Especially with kids and a dog.

Because the walls we wanted to add were not load bearing, I knew we could figure this project out and do it ourselves.

So, I did a lot of research on Google and YouTube to learn how to frame a wall and how to build an interior wall in existing room.

DIY Resources on how to build a wall

What I quickly discovered was that there is just not any straightforward tutorials on how to build a wall frame that explain ALL parts of the project well.

There is a lot of info on framing a wall in a home under construction that is just all open framing, and no walls, electric, floors, etc. has been installed yet.

The best resource I found was this how to frame a wall video by This Old House. It explains it in a really easy to understand way. And I used it the most to help guide us on this project.

Although, again it shows how to frame a wall in a home under construction, not an existing home. But, I definitely recommend watching it! Also, check out some other videos on YouTube on this topic.

When to hire the professionals for building a wall

Originally, I wasn’t going to even create a how to tutorial on this topic, but after completing the project, it can be totally doable for others.

And I feel like there is a lot of information based on my experience that I can share that is just not easy to find elsewhere that would be helpful for others. So, I am sharing our experience and how we built our wall.

Keep in mind this was our first time building a wall and this is just my experience!

*If you are unsure about anything with building a wall, local building codes, or if it’s a load bearing wall, hire the professionals! Get a framing contractor, structural engineer, or other professional!*

We ended up having to hire an electrician to move a light switch and add outlets to complete our wall. And it was definitely worth the money and extra time to have it done right!

They were exactly in the way of where our wall was being installed:

Note, this post contains some affiliate links. For more info see my disclosures here.

How to Build an Interior Wall in Existing Room

Material quantities will vary based on your actual wall dimensions!

Materials

  • 2×4 @ 8ft (we used 10ft lengths too)
  • 2 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ wood screws (we used these self tapping screws)***
  • 1/4 in. x 3 3/4″ Concrete screws***
  • 3/16″ x 5 1/2″ Masonery drill bit***
  • Plumb bob
  • Chalk line
  • Speed square (optional)

Tools

  • Drill
  • Impact Driver (optional but very helpful)
  • Miter saw
  • Clamps
  • Shop Vac
  • Prybar
  • Utility blade
  • Tape Measure
  • Stud finder
  • Dremel tool (optional)

Note: This post will focus on the framing part of the wall and materials above are for framing. At the end I will explain what material we will be using to complete the wall build!

Note 2: If you own a framing nailer and concrete nailer, you can use those for installation of the wall. We do not so we used self tapping screws and concrete screws and a special masonry drill bit to install the concrete screws into our floor.

Building a Wall Video Tutorial:

Watch the entire process on how we built a wall to create our office and all of the lessons learned!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel here!

1. Determine the ceiling joists location and wall placement

First, one of the most important steps for how to build a wall is to determine the direction of your ceiling joists.

Ideally you want your ceiling joists to run perpendicular to the wall you want to build so that the wall frame can be securely attached to the ceiling joists where you want it.

If the ceiling joists run parallel, then the wall needs to be installed under one of the ceiling joists to keep this install simple and to avoid things getting more complex.

The best way to know how your ceiling joists run if you have drywall already installed is to go up into the attic and see. However, when we did this, there were layers and layers of insulation and we could not tell.

The next way is to use a stud finder, which is what I did. But, my stud finder ended up giving me several false readings.

I thought that my joists ran perpendicular, but when we were ready to install the new frame in step #9, I realized they did not.

I don’t know why my stud finder gave me false readings, but sometimes it does.

Fortunately, one of the readings was correct, and we determined they actually run parallel to our new wall and we had one running exactly over top of where we wanted to install our wall. Thank goodness!

So, the other way to know for sure is to use a drill or a nail and literally drill or poke nail holes through the drywall to see if you are hitting a stud or not.

It is super important to know exactly where your ceiling joists are so you can attach the wall framing to it.

2. Determine the wall dimensions and material needed

Measure the space your using for your wall to determine the length of your wall and how much material you will need.

Here is a quick summary of the framing lumber boards (2x4s or 2x6s) that frame a wall. There is a top plate (the top, ceiling board), bottom plate or base plate (the bottom, floor board), and vertical studs.

The vertical studs start at one end and are installed every 16 inches (on the center of the stud board) between the top and bottom plate.

Note, because we also built a smaller, partition wall that our large wall was connecting to, we measured from the wall stud of our intersecting wall to the drywall on the opposite, existing wall for our top and bottom plate lengths.

We also, had to remove part of the drywall above our new corner wall, so that our new big wall would line up properly.

3. Remove the flooring and floor molding where the wall will be installed

It’s best to secure the floor to the sub floor or slab, which means that the existing flooring needs to be removed.

We considered cutting our newly installed laminate flooring with the Dremel where we were going to install our wall. But to avoid excessive extra dust going everywhere, we decided to just take our floor up from the closest wall.

This meant we would only have to reinstall the flooring in a small section.

However, I tried to save our flooring since it was brand new and cut to size perfectly already, but several the of the tongue and groove connecting edges broke in the process since they are made out of MDF.

Be VERY careful not to damage the boards where you are stopping. We ended up damaging some of the flooring that we were not planning to take out and we had to end up using a threshold between the boards to fix this mistake at the end.

Remove the floor molding

As you can see in our building a wall video, to remove the floor molding, Brandon used a utility blade, prybar, and our Dremel tool to cut the molding where we were installing the wall.

Also, I used the shop vac while he did this prevent dust going everywhere.

4. Mark on the floor and ceiling the location of the new wall

Snap a chalk line on the floor in the exact location where your wall will be installed.

The best way we found to do this was by measuring from a parallel wall on each side of the wall to mark our lines and make sure they were the exact same distance.

Also, there was a chalk line next to our other wall as well from when the house was originally built. We used that line as a reference point too for checking our measurements.

Next, use a plumb bob to mark a chalk line on the ceiling. This helps to make the wall plumb and straight. We used the plumb bob the way This Old House used it in their video tutorial here.

However, the plumb bob was annoying to use. We found measuring from the parallel wall again to work best and be the easiest method to ensure our wall would be installed straight and at the same location at the top and bottom.

This is another difference with building a wall in a home that’s already built! There are other walls already constructed that can be used as a reference.

5. Cut the top and bottom plates to size

Cut your top and bottom plate 2×4 boards to size using a miter saw.

We used 2×4 @ 10 ft. boards for our top and bottom plated since they needed to be about 9 ft. long.

6. Determine the vertical stud length

Next, determine your vertical stud length. I used the method shared in this how to frame a wall video by This Old House.

Basically, you stack your two 2×4 boards (the top and bottom plates) on top of each other where they are going to be installed. Then, you stand on top of them and measure the distance between the boards to the ceiling.

However, if you already have drywall on your ceiling and not open framing or if your ceilings aren’t totally square or straight, because not all houses are built perfectly square and straight like they should be in theory, you need to measure the height of the ceiling in multiple spots.

I measured at each end of our wall and the middle. Sure enough, there was a 1/2″ difference of our ceiling height from one end to the other which complicated things. I’ll explain why when we get to the install step.

7. Prepare the vertical studs and mark the stud locations

Mark on your top and bottom plate every 16 inches for the vertical wall studs. I used my speed square to help with this part.

For the first stud, start 3/4″ from one side of the top and bottom plate (since half of a 2×4 width is 3/4″, total width is 1 1/2″) and you will be installing every 16″ on the center of the stud.

Fun fact: I learned during this process that on my tape measure it had the 16″ stud measurements highlighted red. So 16″, 32″, 64″ etc was all marked in a red bubble. Super helpful for fast marking and not sitting there doing the math in my head!

Cut your 2×4 vertical studs to size using a miter saw.

8. Build the interior wall frame on the ground

Lay out the 2×4 boards on the ground in place at your marks. Attach the vertical studs to the top and bottom plates to complete the wall assembly.

If you have a framing nailer, use this for easy attaching. But, if you don’t (like us) you can use a drill or impact driver and 2 1/2″ self tapping screws instead.

Also, to keep things square with a right angle while screwing the boards together, we used a scrap 2×4 and clamps to help hold everything in place:

9. Install the new interior wall

At this point, ideally you would just lift your wall frame into place, line up at the chalk lines, and install.

But, it wasn’t that easy for us and we ran into a few challenges that we had to troubleshoot.

Wall Installation Challenges

Because our ceiling was not square and a 1/2″ difference in size at each end (as described in step #6, we decided to start by just building our wall with the two end studs and one middle stud.

Then, we would test fit it and make sure the measurements for the vertical studs would be a snug fit, then add the rest of our remaining studs, and install the wall.

But, as you can see in our building a wall video, we couldn’t even get the wall frame into place because of our already installed drywall and flooring getting in the way. It was causing a lot of drywall damage trying to force it into place.

We considered building the wall in place with pocket holes. But, I really didn’t want to do that. So, I came up with an alternative plan: Build the wall in two smaller sections, or two small walls that would connect to each other.

And it worked great!

How to Install the wall frame to the ceiling and floor

Again the easiest, most efficient way to install the new wall is with framing nails and a framing nailer to the ceiling joists, other connecting wall studs, and flooring joists for a wooden floor.

For installing the floor into a concrete slab, it would be easiest to use a nailer that can nail into concrete with a concrete nail.

We don’t own those kinds of power tools and I wasn’t about to buy them for one project.

So, we used our impact driver and self tapping screws to quickly screw into the ceiling joists and connecting studs. Self tapping screws are easy to use and don’t require pilot holes.

Drilling into a concrete slab floor

To drill into our concrete floor slab we used a masonry drill bit to pre-drill holes for concrete screws called Tapcon screws. We pre-drilled holes through the bottom plate and part of the concrete floor.

Our drill bit was only 4 1/2″ long, so we ended up having to move our wall out of place to finish pre-drilling a deep enough hole, then we had to move the wall frame back into place.

This was annoying! Definitely get the 5 1/2″ size drill bit so you don’t have to move the wall and you can drill the holes deep enough without having to move the wall!

Also, these concrete screws could be used on a concrete wall or brick wall as well.

Another tip is to have a second person use a shop vac while you are screwing into the concrete. It creates a lot of dust, so the shop vac helps prevent the dust from flying all over the place.

The shop vac also came in handy for us where we had to cut some drywall and flooring.

We installed our smallest wall first and then finished off with our second wall. Then, we screwed them together. See it all come together in our building a wall video!

10. Consider adding blocking and finish off the electric

Blocking for cabinets and wall features

One of the best parts about building a wall is that you have the opportunity to easily add blocking (horizontal studs) in between the vertical studs for extra support.

If you are planning to install cabinets, built ins, sconces, floating shelves, heavy art or mirrors, etc, now is the time that you can add those extra support studs exactly where you need them.

Here is a good blocking article and video, again by This Old House, about how to do blocking.

Once we determine where our built ins and wall sconces are going we will be adding some extra 2x wood into place.

Electric

Now is the time to finish off any electrical wiring. We hired an electrician to install two wall outlets exactly where we wanted them, as well as to move a light switch.

11. Finish the wall with drywall or another material

At this point you can finish your wall off with drywall sheets. But, I can’t stand working with drywall, I despise it and the dusty mess it creates!

So, I came up with an alternative material! For the office side of the wall we will be using 4ft x 8ft beadboard wall panels.

And for other side of the wall, we will be using wood shiplap boards to create a vertical shiplap wall!

We will have to use a little bit of drywall on our small corner, window wall as well as where the electric was changed. But, it will be minimal!

Wow, I just can’t believe we built a wall!! It’s super exciting and I am so proud that we accomplished this project!

I hope this tutorial overview and lessons learned on how to build a wall frame was helpful! Let me know what you think in the comments below.

Make sure to follow along and don’t miss the rest of our wall finishing projects and office makeover!

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube!

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How it Works: Wall Framing

Fine Homebuilding Project Guides

Framing

How it Works

When constructed correctly, a house’s frame resists a variety of loads, such as wind and snow.

By Rob Munach

Issue 214

Synopsis: In this “How It Works” column, engineer Rob Munach defines and describes the components of advanced wall framing. The use of advanced-framing techniques reduces energy losses, resource consumption, and construction costs. However, it may not be enough to withstand extreme loads, such as a falling tree. The components of advanced framing include top plates, header hangers, sheathing, king studs, rim joists, mudsills, cripples, floor joists, studs, sill plates, and headers.

In the article How it Works: Building Loads I wrote about the loads present in a house and how they affect the way you need to build a house. When constructed correctly, a house’s frame resists a variety of loads, such as wind and snow. When built poorly, the frame will fail. When overbuilt, it can lead to energy losses through thermal bridging.

To be a successful framer, you should have a comprehensive understanding of wall assemblies and employ advanced-framing techniques including those illustrated here when appropriate. Keep in mind that while advanced framing reduces energy losses, resource consumption, and construction costs by using significantly less lumber than the typically framed house, it lacks the redundancy to stand up to extreme loads like a falling tree. So use advanced-framing techniques sensibly.

By looking at the components of a wall assembly and the role each component plays within a wall, you can begin to understand how a wall functions as a system. That’s critical information, whether you’re following standard building practices or advanced techniques. Here’s how it works.

Headers transfer wind-uplift loads and dead loads around openings in a wall assembly. They also transfer wind loads that blow on the face of the wall into the king studs. If exterior walls are not load bearing, headers can be constructed similar to the sill using a stud on the flat. In this case, a header has to resist wind loads blowing only on the face of the wall.

Installed on the flat, the sill plate supports the window and transfers wind loads blowing on the face of the wall into the king studs. In a lot of cases, only a single sill plate is needed, not a double. Multiple sill plates are sometimes needed in wide openings.

Spaced 24 in. on center, 2×6 studs carry the downward load of the rafters, joists, or top plates above them. The studs in a wall also resist wind blowing against the wall and wind-uplift loads in walls that are not fully sheathed with plywood or OSB. This wall assembly yields more space for insulation than a wall with 2x4s spaced 16 in. on center.

Floor joists resist live and dead loads. When joined with the rim joist, they create a system that resists racking forces on the house.

Cripples are short 2x blocks above and below rough openings. Those above the header transfer wind and gravity loads from the top plate to the header. They also give you something to nail sheathing to. The cripples below a sill serve mostly as nailers for the sheathing, so the number that you use can be reduced to only one in most instances.

The top plates carry the downward load from the roof rafters or floor joists above. They also act as a “shear collector” by distributing shear loads from the floor or roof assembly above and transferring them along the length of the wall to sheathed corners or braced wall segments. When the rafters or joists are directly in line with the studs of the wall below, only a single top plate is needed. Double top plates, however, add strength and redundancy to the structure and may be required in high-wind and seismic areas.

From Fine Homebuilding #214

For more diagrams and details on wall framing, click the View PDF button below. 

 

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    Introduction to Framing

    • House Framing Concepts, Tips, and More

    Framing Tools, Techniques, and Materials

    • Tools

    • Techniques

    • Framing Lumber

    • Steel

    Framing Floors
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    Efficient Framing Methods

    • Advanced Framing

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    Timber Framing

    • Timber-Frame Construction

    • Timber-Frame Design

    Decorating a child’s room: advice from psychologists

    Many parents complain about their children’s behavior: hyperactivity is observed in almost 80% of cases, some babies cannot cope with negative emotions, they constantly cry, act up, sleep poorly. Frequent mood swings, lack of attention, distraction, inattention – a reason to make a preventive visit to a psychologist. But before you go to a specialist, try to change something in the microcosm of the baby – perhaps there are no serious problems, and the reason for bad behavior lies in external details.

    Color range.

    Color affects the mood and well-being of the child. Therefore, when making repairs or choosing furniture for a nursery, consider this factor. If the baby is passive, closed, there is a tendency to apathy, autism, in this case it is better to avoid gray, black and blue colors. Add bright colors: a little orange, yellow, peach. But do not get carried away – an abundance of bright accents can provoke aggression and nervousness.

    If the baby is restless, it is difficult to put him to sleep during the day, immoderate play activity is manifested, it is better to opt for pastel shades, blue, green, yellow. Dark purple, brown, marsh colors should be excluded, as they contribute to the appearance of depression, irritability.

    Lighting.

    Everything needs harmony, including lighting. If there is little light in the room, in this case the child will quickly get tired during classes, headaches may appear. Diffused local lighting should be in the nursery, but it should only be used in the evening. It helps in preparing for sleep.

    The children’s room should have enough natural and artificial light. A central light source is needed, and it is also worth hanging lamps separately in the play and sleeping areas. You can buy table lamps, but they are more suitable for teenagers – for the safety of children under 14, it is better to use sconces and other stationary light sources.

    Arrangement of furniture.

    Some parents independently form the furniture composition in the nursery, separately purchasing a bed, wardrobes, tables, wall shelves, etc. And in this case, the task of arranging them arises. Some make a choice in favor of rationality, forgetting about comfort and convenience. For example, sometimes, in order to save space, massive bookshelves are hung above the child’s bed, and a wardrobe is placed in the place that is intended for games. Another mistake that many parents make is cluttering the window space. If the rack or bed bunk structure partially overlaps the window, then it is better to rearrange the furniture. The room should be light, spacious and comfortable.

    If you doubt that you will be able to correctly and rationally arrange the furniture in the room, it is better to choose a ready-made design solution by ordering a set of children’s furniture. Designers think through everything to the smallest detail, so that your child will be comfortable and easy in the room, even if the set contains a large number of elements.

    A few tips

    Don’t put a TV in a child’s room. It is better to make a choice in favor of a radio or a speaker through which you can broadcast classical music, children’s songs, audio fairy tales, etc. You can hang photos of a happy baby and parents. Do not forget about the benefits of indoor plants – they not only decorate the composition, but also help to purify the air.

    Decorating a bathroom – useful tips

    Residents of Russia have begun to give priority to the individual design of their homes relatively recently. In Soviet times, the standard layout of apartments and standard finishes were considered the norm. Residents usually undertook repairs only after clearly visible deterioration occurred in the condition of the apartment. And before that, the elements that bring diversity to interior design were, first of all, fashionable pieces of furniture, wall decorations, home flowers, lamps and chandeliers.

    The repair required a long preparation and dragged on for a long time. Building and finishing materials, plumbing and any other equipment had to be obtained with great difficulty, and people had to do the main work with their own hands. Only the wealthiest people could hire professionals to renovate their homes, and there were few of them.

    Not surprisingly, living rooms were the first objects of renovation, while the bathroom was left “for later”. And when hands reached it, functionality was valued much higher than beauty. In the first place was the replacement of pipes and the installation of new plumbing, and only in the second – decoration and design. Moreover, there was not much diversity in the design. They mainly used tiles – simple domestic or beautiful imported ones, and moisture-resistant washable wallpapers were the top of the dream.

    Everything has changed in the last twenty years. Available materials have appeared in all price ranges, and their variety is so great that you can either carry out a budget renovation with minimal costs, but with an impressive result, or create an atmosphere of real luxury in the bathroom. And now you can use the knowledge and experience of specialists in interior design and repair work at quite reasonable prices.

    But for a long time the habit of standard solutions continued to dominate the moods of Russians. Suffice it to recall, for example, the fashion for renovations that swept the country in the nineties. The apartments, finished in the spirit of European-style renovation, were strikingly different for the better from ordinary Soviet dwellings – but, alas, they all looked alike.

    It was only closer to the twenty-first century that the time came when individuality was valued above all else in interior design. The design of an apartment or a separate residential building should be in harmony with the tastes and moods of everyone who lives in it. And this applies not only to living rooms, bedrooms, children’s and playrooms, offices and living rooms. The stylish look of seemingly utilitarian spaces like the kitchen and bathroom is no less important.

    The bathroom is a place where we not only wash ourselves, but also relax, resting from everyday worries. And this means that the whole atmosphere in the bathroom must be appropriate. Excessive humidity, insufficient ventilation, cold floors – all this can spoil the mood for the whole day. Poorly chosen or irrationally located bathroom accessories also do not contribute to a good mood. But the most important thing is, of course, what our eyes see, that is, the finish and design.

    However, there is another important factor for complete relaxation and peace. This is the confidence that no one will disturb you during solitude.

    How many bathrooms should a house have?

    Not so long ago this question itself might have seemed strange, and the answer to it seemed obvious. Of course one! And it’s good if not combined with a toilet.

    However, the modern lifestyle makes its own adjustments. In the new millennium, it is customary to focus on other ideas about comfort, and it is considered bad form to have only one bathroom in a two-story or multi-story cottage or in a multi-level luxury apartment.

    The minimum requirement is one bathroom per floor, and if there are children in the house and their birth is expected, then it is desirable to have a separate bathroom and toilet for them, equipped with increased requirements for comfort and safety.

    Of course, it is far from always possible to arrange several full-fledged bathrooms in the house. In some, you can install only a shower or in the same room with a toilet – a sink and accessories for washing hygiene needs.

    Hermetic shower and home mini solarium can be placed even in a room that was not originally intended for this purpose. Modern approaches to the wiring of communications allow you to bring water and sewerage to almost any point in a house or apartment.

    Designing bathrooms, when there are several bathrooms in the house, requires a special creative approach. The best thing is to make them different, using play of colors, different finishing materials, lighting features and bathroom accessories made in their own style for each room. By doing so, you can, as in the best houses of European capitals, give the bathrooms their own names – for example, “pink” and “white”, “marble” and “mirror” or “romantic” and “oriental”. There are no limits for fantasy!

    In non-luxury apartments, there is still one bathroom, but the bathrooms have become more spacious. And even if you live in a typical Soviet-built house, you can make using the bathroom more convenient and enjoyable through the rational use of space and some interior design tricks.

    Bathroom decoration

    Mirrors help a lot to visually push the boundaries of the room and create the illusion that there is more free space in it than it really is.

    Of course, a mirror is a must, without which it is difficult to imagine a bathroom. But it is not at all necessary to be limited to only one mirror. You can mount a mirror suspended ceiling – and the room will change unrecognizably. It will visually grow up.

    The same feeling of expansion is created by mirror panels on the walls and just large mirrors. And the mirror tiles seem to multiply the rays of light emanating from the lamps and fixtures.

    Scene images also help to expand the visible boundaries of the walls and ceiling. It can be stained glass or ceramics, stone mosaics or just waterproof wallpaper. Best of all, if they depict natural landscapes, sea beaches, ocean waves, mountains and clear skies.

    Modern materials and accessories make it possible to choose any style of decoration for the bathroom. It can coincide with the general style of the whole house, or it can serve as its original continuation, and in some cases it can differ significantly from the design of other rooms. Indeed, for everyday life, work and good rest, sometimes a completely different atmosphere is required. Therefore, taking care of the harmony of style decisions throughout the whole house, one should not forget about the main purpose of each specific room – including the bathroom.

    All the variety of existing styles can be reduced to four main directions. These are classics, futuristic motifs, antique styling and exotic.

    The choice of finishing materials and bathroom accessories directly depends on the chosen style. Classics are, first of all, natural stone and other natural materials, among which wood is in the foreground. Glass is also a characteristic element of the classical style, but most often it is used in accessories such as mirrors, shelves, lamps and containers for detergents and hygiene products. Appropriate in the classic design and ceramics – both in the form of tiles on the walls, and in the details of accessories.

    A forward-looking design with plenty of glass and metal. A characteristic feature of this style can also be called plastic in all its forms and especially ultra-modern polymers. Lighting also requires an unconventional approach. Classic lamps are not suitable here – you need light sources that are originally built into the walls and ceiling. And it is better if they are LED, because this is the light of the future. Practicality, originality and no frills – these are the three pillars on which this direction of interior design stands.

    Antique styling, on the contrary, sees the main way of self-expression in excesses. You can find in the past one of the most attractive styles for you – for example, the Middle Ages, Empire or Baroque, or you can take a little from everywhere – given only that all the elements must certainly be organically combined with each other. Working on such an interior requires an outstanding artistic taste and a non-trivial selection of materials. If metal – then noble, if ceramics – then with complex ornaments, if stone – then intricately processed, and if wood – then valuable species.

    The same can be said about exotic or ethnic style, only in this case the reference point will not be a certain historical era, but the traditions of a distant people or country. The Chinese or Japanese style is mats instead of rugs, wicker furniture, sliding doors, peculiar drawings and ornaments. African motifs are special types of stone and wood, bizarre images and objects, bird feathers and leaves of tropical plants.

    And at the same time, you need to remember that the bathroom is a place where there is a lot of moisture and often the air temperature is higher than in the whole house. That is, all materials used must be moisture resistant, and metals must also successfully resist corrosion.

    Furnishing a bathroom using only natural and noble materials is a very expensive pleasure. But fortunately, there are many alternatives.

    The most traditional material for wall decoration in rooms with high humidity is ceramic tiles. It is cheap, durable and easy to use. Its disadvantage has always been considered to be some monotony in terms of appearance – but in times of high technology, it has been successfully overcome. The variety of ceramic tiles currently available on the market is simply indescribable, and many of them are nothing like the tiles we are used to.

    But the artificial stone is even more attractive from all points of view. It is cheaper than natural analogues, but much better in terms of functionality – as it is designed exactly for the conditions that we see in the bathroom. Such a stone is not afraid of either moisture or heat, it is durable and environmentally friendly. And most importantly – it can be given a color, shape and surface texture that never occur in nature.

    And the pinnacle of the latest achievements in the field of interior decoration is, of course, composite materials. All the advantages of natural stone and especially durable synthetic resins are literally fused together in these materials. An endless palette of colors, textures, surface patterns, shapes and sizes with unsurpassed strength, durability and durability make composites and agglomerates the most attractive materials among all the existing variety.

    Polymers should not be discounted either. Inexpensive bathroom accessories are often made of plastic.

    Among metals, aluminum and stainless steel have proven themselves to be the best in bathroom design. They are the most resistant to corrosion and are relatively light and durable. The metal parts of all kinds of bathroom accessories are most often made from these two metals, and chrome plating or a decorative coating gives them a stylish or sophisticated look.

    Do you want door handles, towel hooks and holders, shelves, lamps and mirror frames to sparkle with gold? Nothing is impossible, and you won’t have to pay for real cast gold. In the company “Stylish Accessories” you can always find accessories in the old or classic style with decor in gold and bronze.

    Aluminum and stainless steel supporting structures are traditionally used in suspended ceiling installations. Plastic and moisture-resistant drywall are also widely used here. Using them, you can make an inexpensive, light and stylish ceiling – including a multi-level one, with built-in light sources.

    Energy, light and heat

    High humidity in the bathroom places additional demands on electrical equipment.

    First of all, you should not place free-standing electrical appliances directly above the bath or dangerously close to it – neither on shelves, nor on brackets and other supporting elements, no matter how reliable they may seem. Falling a working electrical appliance into water can lead to the most tragic consequences. So if you have a habit of watching TV in the bath, then it is better to place it away from the water.

    Exceptions are appliances fixed to or built into the wall – but in this case you must ensure that the fixing is absolutely secure.

    Wiring is recommended to be carried out as far as possible from the bath and other places where water procedures are taken (jacuzzi, shower cabin) – along the opposite wall and ceiling. If the ceiling is suspended, then it is most reasonable to remove all or most of the wiring under it.

    Taking into account the wiring, the placement of lamps in the room is also carried out. The easiest option is to build them into the ceiling as well. If this is not possible or the design idea suggests a different lighting design, then the best places for lamps are above the entrance and on the wall opposite the bath.

    Modern technology, however, allows luminaires to be built into the bottom of a bathtub, jacuzzi or mini-pool, but all instructions for connecting electricity to a particular product, as well as safety requirements, must be strictly observed.

    In any case, special attention must be paid to the reliability of the insulation of all wires, connections, switches and sockets. Any violation of insulation in conditions of high humidity is fraught with a short circuit and other troubles.

    Apartment bathrooms are most often equipped with central heating radiators and electric heaters are not required. In a private cottage, the method of heating the bathroom depends on how the whole house is heated. But if there is a technical possibility, then it would be a great idea to equip the bathroom with underfloor heating. Then, after water procedures, you will step on a warm, pleasant and dry surface at any time of the year.

    Plumbing, furniture and accessories

    Sanitary equipment, furniture and bathroom accessories form a single complex of elements and play no less important role in interior design than wall decoration and lighting.

    The main piece of equipment – both in terms of size and value – is, of course, the bath itself.

    The most common option in Russian apartments for a long time were enamelled cast-iron bathtubs, which have a number of advantages. They retain heat well and can last a very long time. So if such a bath is already installed in your apartment, then you should not change it, at least until its appearance begins to deteriorate.

    If you do change a new one or buy a new one when equipping a bathroom from scratch, then there are several more attractive options. And first of all it is steel and acrylic bathtubs. They are lighter in weight and therefore easier to transport and install. In addition, they are more diverse in shape and size, and acrylic – also in color.

    Bathroom sinks are made using the same materials (with the exception of cast iron) and slightly different ones. The most common material of the recent past is ceramics. The similarity of the color of the sanitary ware and the enamel covering the bath made it possible to maintain the unity of style.

    Now, however, the choice is much more varied. Sinks are made of stainless steel, acrylic, composite materials. True, a steel sink is more suitable for the kitchen. Acrylic is best combined with a bathtub made of the same material. But a “stone” or “granite” bowl can decorate any room for water procedures, regardless of what materials are used for the rest of the equipment and decoration.

    Quite often, a “stone” bowl is combined with the same cabinet, which can be considered a piece of furniture, as it is convenient to store detergents and hygiene products in it.

    In general, even in the most spacious bathroom there is usually not much furniture. The most typical bathroom furniture is just a cabinet under the sink, which, in addition to composite materials, can be made of polymer materials, natural wood or chipboard with a waterproof coating. This category also includes wall cabinets and shelves, and sometimes – if there is enough space – also seats and sunbeds: stools, benches, ottomans, couches, made in a functional or original style (for example, wicker bathroom furniture made of natural or artificial rattan).