Blocking chimneys: How To Block A Chimney

How to Block a Chimney » Full Service Chimney™

Chimney problems sometimes become so frustrating that homeowners want more than to cap a chimney, they want the chimney removed, torn down or at the very least they ask us to seal a chimney off completely.

It’s often chimney leaks or unwanted cold air from the fireplace, otherwise known as a draft. Regardless of the motivation many homeowners often reach this conclusion. By the time they consider chimney blockers, it is safe to say they’ve tried everything and are at a point of extreme frustration with the issues caused by their homes chimneys.

Before we get into the mechanics of blocking a chimney, you should be aware of the side effects of closing off a chimney and fireplace.

How to Seal a Fireplace and Chimney

Rather than ask HOW to seal a fireplace and chimney… try asking why you should NOT seal the fireplace and block a chimney? That’s what we explain here.

A chimney is a more or less an open passageway from inside the home to the outdoors. Much like a window or door to the outside, if a passageway is closed off, then it becomes a container.

With a chimney, half of it is exposed to indoor temperatures and half to outdoor temperatures. With a blocked fireplace and sealed chimney, these different temperatures frequently cause the moisture in the trapped air to condense, become a liquid on the inside surfaces of the chimney.

As more air leaks in so does more moisture. A blocked chimney will actually allow more water into the home than it did before it was closed off. This will lead to odor, mold and water damage issues.

Seasons temperature changes and weather conditions can damage chimneys in ways you may not expect!

Sealing a Chimney Causes More Problems Than it Solves.

Sealing off a fireplace and chimney always collects water inside the flue. Plain and simple, DO NOT seal off a chimney or fireplace because you will get a flue full of condensation problems!

Even when your fireplace is blocked off airtight you’ll still end up with “hidden” water issues. But these problems are only hidden for so long! We promise there are better ways than blocking or sealing a chimney and fireplace.

Sealing off a fireplace always collects water inside the flue.

Temporary Solutions to Cold Air Movement

Cold air coming down the flue and out of the fireplace can make a living room unlivable. There are temporary solutions to cold air coming in and out of the chimney.

Most people love their fireplace but for those who suffer a cold draft and the odor that fills the room makes the fireplace the most hated feature in the home. It doesn’t have to be this way. There are temporary steps you can take that (if performed carefully) will give you some short-term relief without sealing the fireplace and closing off the chimney.

Do NOT Seal a Fireplace like this image shows

A Blocked Chimney is a Danger

In the event the chimney top is blocked or sealed off, there is the concern that unsuspecting people may be unaware that smoke, heat and creosote will not exit the home and yield a very dangerous situation. At the very least, fumes and exhaust will all come back into the home. This damages the home’s furnishings and can harm anyone breathing the byproducts of combustion.

Find out about the danger of (CO) carbon monoxide caused by chimneys

In some cases, the build-up of heat inside the chimney and fireplace will be excessive. If a chimney can not draft, it will reach such high temperatures that will destroy glass doors, cause flames to pour into the home and overheat any combustibles in the area.

When a fireplace is used, the inside of the flue walls get coated with soot and creosote, which naturally let off gases.

If the chimney is blocked or sealed off, then what happens to all the fumes and exhaust?

If the gas can’t go up and out, then it has nowhere to go except back into the home, which is potentially fatal to the people living inside. Be Safe. Be Smart. Do not block or seal your chimney.

How to Close Off a Fireplace

While making sure there is no pilot or embers active in the fireplace, a temporary drape of plastic sheeting can be taped over the fireplace opening. This will stop easy air movement from the fireplace, help with cold hearth syndrome and odor.

Never, under any circumstances seal off the top of the chimney, due to the risk of unintended use of the fireplace as cautioned above.

By keeping the cap on the chimney but sealing the fireplace, enough air can circulate to avoid unwanted condensation issues.

*This image shows the WRONG WAY to Block a Chimney! DO NOT do this.

We Can Help Your Problem Chimneys

Solving chimney problems isn’t easy for the average homeowner. Blocking the chimney frequently causes more issues than it solves. Full Service Chimney has helped over sixteen thousand chimneys to be loved again by their owners.

Chimney Repair and regular maintenance will reduce water entry better than blocking the flue. Plus it keeps the chimney as an asset to the home. Repair or replacement of the chimney flue liner and damper works wonders at minimizing air entry and lost heat from the fireplace.

Were Do You Start…?

Full Service Chimney sweeps are very familiar with chimney construction and problems. With a thorough Chimney Inspection we can diagnose the problems and provide cost effective solutions that won’t break the bank. Less water, odor or air loss is just a phone call away.

If you’re in the Kansas City area and want help to better understand the options that go beyond blocking a chimney, then click the button below. Our Certified Chimney Sweep Team is on standby Monday-Friday 9am-5pm. Call us at 913-642-6171 or if you’d like to request a call back, our team will reach out to you.

← What is a Fireplace Chimney Flue Liner?

Best Time of Year For Chimney Cleaning →

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How to Block Off a Chimney

A chimney can provide comfort during the winter, but it can also be a source of headache. If you are looking for information on how to block your chimney off either temporarily or permanently, this article is for you. We have researched this topic thoroughly, so you don’t have to do the legwork.

You can block your chimney off by following these steps:

Cover the top of the chimney with a high-quality metal chimney cap;
Insulate the bottom of the chimney;
Seal the cleanout

Blocking off a chimney is not as simple as it may seem, but with the right tools and knowledge, you can do it without any difficulty. Keep reading as we explain each step of the process.

Blocking Off a Chimney: Step-By-Step Guide

The maintenance cost of a chimney is not a joke, so blocking a chimney off can be the most reasonable thing to do, especially if it is not sustainable anymore. Below is our guide on how to block off a chimney. Go ahead and check it out.

Cover the top of the chimney with a chimney cap

A metal chimney cap keeps the elements from entering the chimney. It will also help prevent sparks from coming out of the chimney and spreading to the roof, especially during summer.

The scorching summer heat can potentially trigger a spark on the accumulated creosote (a tar-like byproduct of combustion), and it may set off a fire.

The metal cap should have an expel mechanism to release moisture, so a chimney cap with a vent is recommended.

Regular chimney caps are different from vented chimney caps because they allow air to move in and out of the chimney freely. In addition, most regular chimney caps have steel mesh in their design, which is necessary to keep chimneys free of rodents, bats, and birds.

Click here to see this steel mesh chimney cap on Amazon

Regular metal caps are the preferred choice for homeowners who want to temporarily block off their chimneys, while vented metal caps are most suitable for permanent closure.

Click here to see this vented chimney cap on Amazon

Why should moisture not be allowed inside a blocked chimney?

During winter, frost may form on the metal cap if moisture moves upward from the bottom of the chimney and settles on the cap. The chimney must be allowed to breathe in order to minimize if not avoid frost formation around the metal cap.

Additionally, the unending cycle of freezing and thawing will eventually cause the cap to crack, leak, and eventually break. This is the gist behind keeping the chimney moisture-free.

Metal caps are available in different sizes, so you can choose one that fits the size of your chimney. Some chimney caps are installed with a draft inducer to direct warm air up the chimney and out the top.

Insulate the bottom of the chimney

The bottom of the chimney should be insulated to prevent cold air from entering the house and causing the temperature to drop. When a temperature drops, the house’s heating system needs to work overtime to keep the interior warm.

The harder the heater has to work, the more energy the heater will expend, and the higher your electric bill will be.

How to insulate the bottom of the chimney

There are two ways to insulate the bottom of the chimney. One is to set up an inflatable chimney plug, while the other is to install a foam installation plug. The latter is used if a chimney is to be permanently blocked off, while the former temporarily covers the bottom.

Seal the cleanout

A cleanout is the opening in the wall that allows the chimney to discharge smoke and gases. Cleanouts are usually located in the basement, but some are outside the house.

It is important to seal the cleanout to prevent toxic fumes from entering your home through the basement. If your cleanout is located outside, sealing it will prevent the harmful residue from polluting the environment.

To seal the cleanout, you will need to caulk the opening. Caulking is the process of applying a think, resilient sealant to cracks and crevices to prevent air and moisture from seeping through.

Make sure that the cleanout is completely dry and clean before sealing it.

Click here to see this caulk sealant on Amazon

Why You Should Block Off Your Chimney

An unused chimney is a perfect place for birds to build their nests. It is also a good place for insects to lay their eggs and for non-paying tenants like rodents to breed.

In addition, the accumulated grime and soot in an inactive chimney can become a source of pollution if it is not cleaned regularly. This can cause a number of health problems, especially respiratory issues.

Why You Should Not Block Off Your Chimney

Blocking off a chimney may be a good idea if you don’t want to deal with its upkeep, like cleaning and other related maintenance costs. But is it really a good idea in the long run?

The problem with a completely sealed chimney is condensation. Condensation happens when cold air comes in contact with the warmer air inside the chimney, and then both begin to cancel out.

As the temperature cancels out, the water vapor in the air condenses. The result is that water drips from the flue to the bottom of the chimney.

A good example is an air conditioner. If the air conditioner is on, you may see puddles of water on the floor right below the unit. These are signs that moisture is condensing out of the air.

What can condensation do to your chimney?

One thing condensation can do to your chimney is cause water stains. Condensation can also cause structural damage to your chimney due to water corrosion.

Water on the inside of the chimney can freeze during winter and cause it to crack and crumble. This will eventually lead to an inflow of water into the living spaces below, which is a disaster waiting to happen. This is why it is important to regularly check the condition of your chimney.

If you notice any water damage, have it inspected by a professional as soon as possible.

How to Temporarily Block Off a Chimney

The most common method for temporarily blocking off a chimney is using an inflatable fireplace plug. This portable solution is user-friendly: simply position the plug inside the fireplace and pump some air into it until it is inflated enough to block off the opening.

Should you decide to open the chimney again, simply deflate the plug, and you’re good to go!

Additionally, you can have a glass fireplace door installed in the fireplace’s opening. This is a great way to add an interior design element to your home.

How to Permanently Block Off a Chimney

If you want to totally block off your chimney and ensure that it will never be used again, then you can have it eliminated completely either by tearing it down or by drywalling and sealing the opening of the fireplace with bricks.

Click here to see these insulating firebricks on Amazon

How Much Does it Cost to Block Off a Chimney?

The cost of blocking off a chimney varies widely, but you should look into the job order if it goes beyond $2,500 and talk with your contractor about your options. Some chimneys are blocked off by a simple cap, while others require more involved work.

In other words, the cost will entirely depend on how you want your chimney to be blocked off and whether you’re interested in a temporary or permanent solution.

What Does A Chimney Cap Look Like?

A chimney cap looks like a small roof that is set on top of the chimney. Caps are mostly made of either steel or copper.

How to Set Up a Chimney Cap

When setting up a chimney cap, it should be snug to the chimney top, and it should not touch the chimney flue or the chimney liner. Chimney caps should be set in such a way that they cannot be easily removed. They come in different sizes, depending on the size of the chimney.

Incorrect installation of a chimney cap can result in damage to the chimney. In fact, a small crack in the flue or chimney liner can make a big difference in the long term and can potentially lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.

Final Takeaway

Blocking off a chimney is a big decision to make. Regardless of the reason that you want your chimney blocked, we want to make sure that you do it right. This is why we took the time to research this post—so we could provide you with the best tips to help you make the most informed decision.

You may also find these supplemental articles helpful:

8 Types Of Chimney Caps

Is Chimney Soot Flammable? What Homeowners need to know

8 Best Fireplace Draft Stoppers

Fireplace draft stoppers come in many forms, but they all have one thing in common: They keep your home warm by blocking out cold air.

Every editorial product is independently selected, though we may be compensated or receive an affiliate commission if you buy something through our links. Ratings and prices are accurate and items are in stock as of time of publication.

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Image Source/Getty Images

Using a Fireplace Draft Stopper

A fireplace is a huge source of drafts from the cold outdoors. A chimney can act as a wind tunnel even when the damper is closed, sucking cold air down into your home through the fireplace opening.

A fireplace draft stopper is an efficient way to prevent this from happening. Whether you use a chimney balloon, a fabric draft blocker, glass doors or even create your own decorative cover, a fireplace draft stopper will keep your home warm while lowering energy costs.

Before deciding whether to purchase or hand-make a fireplace draft stopper, check out our list of the kinds of stoppers that are available.

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via amazon.com

Fabric Draft Stoppers

Whether store-bought or handmade, fabric draft stoppers — long, rectangular cloth tubes stuffed with soft, pliable filling — are a stylish and simple way to block drafts that leak through cracks and gaps at the base of fireplace doors, screens and inserts. They even block smoke.

Shop Now

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via amazon.com

Glass Doors

Installing glass doors to the front of an open-hearth fireplace can nearly double the fireplace’s heat efficiency. Not only does the glass stop cold air from entering the room, but it also provides a safety barrier for children and pets. Many styles of tempered-glass, hinged doors come with magnetic latches to keep them tightly closed.

Shop Now

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via christywalkercreations.com

Vent Covers

If you have screen doors or an insert built into your fireplace, the vents along the top and/or bottom of the frame are known to leak up a storm. Installing a magnetic fireplace vent cover over those vents is a smart solution that stops cold air dead in its tracks.

Shop Now

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via homedepot. com

Fireplace Plugs

Fireplace plugs (a.k.a. flue blockers, chimney pillows, draft stoppers and the trademarked Chimney Balloon) are an inexpensive way to choke off drafts when a fireplace is not in use. Made of inflatable urethane or cut-to-size foam, they fit snugly up against your damper to lessen the chilling effect of a cold-air draft inside your home.

Shop Now

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via amazon.com

Chimney Caps

Besides guarding against rainwater and pesky wildlife entering your home through the chimney opening, adding a spring-loaded or lock-top chimney cap eliminates blustering downdrafts. An air-tight, adjustable cover helps improve fireplace efficiency while saving you money that would otherwise go up in smoke!

Shop Now

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Fireplace Blankets

If you have a brick, wood-burning fireplace in your home, consider investing in a fireplace blanket. This fire-resistant, carbon fiber hearth cover is designed to attach to your metal screen via strong magnets. It effectively guards against cold air coming in and heat escaping into the atmosphere while you’re fast asleep.

Shop Now

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Andreas von Einsiedel/Getty Images

Seal Your Fireplace Forever!

Tired of battling drafts that raise your heating costs when you haven’t used your fireplace in years? Why not seal off your fireplace permanently?

Start by cleaning the chimney thoroughly and covering up the rooftop chimney cap. Next, close the damper, insert insulation into the flue and secure it. Now add houseplants, bookshelves or completely brick-over the space. You now have a no-fuss, faux fireplace.

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DIY Removable Cover

One of the best ways to close off drafty airflow from your fireplace, especially when it won’t be used for a while, is to create a decorative and removable cover that you can pop in and out. Cut two-inch foam to the shape of the opening; subtract about an 1/8- to 1/4-inch around all sides to leave room for wrapping with material. You can cover the foam with a cozy blanket or fun fabric to match your decor.

Originally Published: October 08, 2020

Toni DeBella

Toni DeBella is a culture and lifestyle writer, reviews expert and DIY enthusiast covering everything from pests to painting to pool cabanas. Based in a medieval hill town in central Italy, when Toni isn’t documenting her travels around Europe, she’s tending her garden or honing her clay-court tennis game.

Chimney Blocked with Debris | Doctor Flue

Published
December 14, 2017

Your chimney is a necessary part of safely operating your fireplace. Without it, smoke and byproducts from combustion would have no place to go! But when you have a chimney blocked with debris, it can trap exhaust in your home and put your safety in jeopardy.

Every homeowner should know how to identify the signs of a chimney blockage and how to handle it. Read on to learn more to find out what you can do to keep your family safe from a blocked chimney.

How to Identify a Blocked Chimney

In many cases, a chimney blockage can be spotted by savvy homeowners. Especially when you have an active fire burning, you should frequently check your fireplace or stove for any unusual behavior that might indicate a problem. Here are some of the most likely symptoms of a blockage:

Smoky Odor

One of the most obvious signs of a blocked chimney is a smoky odor, particularly when you have a fire burning. During normal operation, the flue should draw smoke up and out of your home, dramatically limiting any smoky smell that otherwise might affect your home.

When the chimney has a blockage, however, that smoke can’t always escape. In addition to pushing a smoky odor into your home, this blockage can lead to bigger problems like fireplace backpuffing.

Debris Inside the Hearth

This is an obvious sign. If you see debris in your firebox or sticking out of the fireplace, chances are it fell through the chimney. That debris could indicate there’s more that didn’t make it all the way down. Even if your chimney isn’t blocked right now, debris shouldn’t enter your flue at all. Start looking at potential solutions to block further debris from finding its way in.

High Volumes of Soot

Frequent use of your chimney is guaranteed to lead to byproduct build up. While you can reduce the build up by burning properly seasoned wood, over time, it will lead to a soot-filled chimney.

If you start to notice high volumes of visible soot, it’s likely that there is also build up in places you can’t see. The only reliable way to confirm a blockage, especially deep in the flue, is with a video inspection performed by a professional chimney sweep.

Risks of a Chimney Blocked with Debris

Anything that impacts the effectiveness of your chimney increases the chances of some common risks:

Chimney Fire

Despite being designed for combustion, a chimney fire is one of the most dangerous events that can happen in your fireplace. Most chimney fires start due to creosote deposits that have built up in the flue. Over time, these deposits grow large and cause a very hot fire to ignite.

When the creosote ignites, it can cause severe damage – which can extend far beyond the chimney. Due to the high heat of chimney fires, they can ignite other combustibles near the masonry. Wooden support beams and other home building materials are at risk. Chimney fires also often crack and damage your masonry. That means a second or third chimney fire is much more likely and may cause damage or even burn down your home.

Another potential source of a chimney fire is debris like a bird’s nest falling inside. This can allow a fire to happen higher up in the chimney, igniting creosote deposits.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning & Toxic Fumes

If your chimney can’t vent properly, the byproducts from combustion will need to find a new way to escape. The only other option is back into your home. One of these byproducts is deadly carbon monoxide.

Carbon monoxide is invisible, odorless and tasteless. It’s impossible to notice until you’re experiencing the symptoms of CO poisoning, which can be any of the following:

Dizziness
Headache
Nausea
Confusion
Difficulty breathing
Loss of consciousness

As the symptoms become more severe, it’s more difficult for you to escape from poisoning. For this reason, it’s critical to have carbon monoxide detectors installed in your home. You should have one near the fireplace, and others in common living areas – particularly in bedrooms and living rooms, to avoid the possibility of sleeping through a carbon monoxide incident.

Preventing Debris from Clogging Your Chimney

Install & Maintain Your Chimney Cap

The best way to keep your chimney free of debris is to install a chimney cap. Every chimney should have a cap installed, even if you don’t use the fireplace or stove connected to it.

They keep your chimney, and thus your home, protected from a variety of invasive problems like:

All types of debris
Racoons, birds and other animals
Rain, snow and sleet

While rain or debris can be a risk for your chimney, animal invaders can do real damage to your home. There are plenty of anecdotes of birds or racoons running wild in homes after sneaking in through open chimneys.

There are no negatives associated with chimney caps beyond the cost of installation. But the protection offered to your chimney and home far outweighs the initial costs. If you have a chimney without a cap, or if your chimney cap has been damaged, contact a chimney professional right away to look into a repair or replacement.

Schedule a Chimney Sweeping

No matter what you do, it’s impossible to keep the interior of your chimney completely clean throughout the year. Even if you don’t use your chimney, it needs to be inspected and cleaned at least once annually.

While you may be able to identify obvious signs of damage or blockage, CSIA-certified chimney sweeps use a specialized camera to inspect the deepest reaches of your flue in close detail. Not only will this find evidence of blockage, they can even find potential signs of a chimney fire or other damage that may have lead to serious problems down the road.

Prevent Chimney Catastrophes – Contact Doctor Flue!

The CSIA-certified experts at Doctor Flue can inspect your chimney and clear it of any debris. Contact us today! We offer chimney services and products in Michigan and Ohio and can inspect your chimney and identify any potential risks. We’ll get you set up right away so you can have peace of mind.

Call Us: 1-800-438-3583

Email Us: [email protected]

Office Hours: Mon-Fri: 8am-4pm

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How To Block Off Chimney For Electric Fire

If you have a fireplace in your home, but don’t use it for a fire, you could be letting a high percentage of your hot air out of the home through the chimney opening. To block the chimney off is a simple task but it could save you a lot of money on your heating bill. Caution is needed though, because if you don’t do it correctly, you will cause problems with damp in your home.

If the chimney is open (and most are) every time it rains, some water will be entering the chimney and falling down the inside of your chimney making the brickwork damp. If the chimney has been used in the past for any type of open fire, there will be remnants of soot on the inside walls of the chimney. The moisture will seep into the walls mixing with the soot and making a black paste type liquid.

If you completely block the bottom of the chimney, that soot laden moisture will have nowhere to go except to seep through the interior walls of the chimney breast. This will result in a black, messy, damp patch appearing on your wallpaper or wall surface. To prevent this from happening you must install a vent so moist air can escape.

Table of Contents

How Much Does It Cost To Remove A Fireplace?

If you are considering removing your old fireplace and replacing it with a modern electric fireplace, here’s a handy guide on the average costs of removing the old fireplace.

Type Of Fireplace To Be Removed	Average Cost For Removal UK
Coal Fire Removal	£100 plus VAT
Wood Fire Removal	£100 plus VAT
Electric Fire Disconnection & Removal	£150 plus VAT
Gas Fire Disconnection & Removal	£150 plus VAT

These are just average prices for a guide only. Get 2 or 3 quotes from different reputable tradesmen before making a decision. There are also regional variations in any pricing, always check before the work commences that you have been quoted the all inclusive price. To save any nasty surprises after the work is completed.

Why You Should Use Professional Experts

It’s always best to call in an expert to do any job in your home, remember it’s your biggest investment and your home. If anything goes wrong you won’t just be out of pocket, you could potentially be homeless. If you are having a gas fire removed it should be by a Gas Safe registered gas engineer. This will ensure your safety, the safety of your home and quality of the work done.

Likewise with any electrical work be sure the electrician is registered with either NICEIC or NAPIT these are the equivalent of the gas safe scheme for electricians. Builders should also be registered with NHBC or FMB this guarantees they are certified and competent to carry out any work you contract them to do. Roofers should be registered with either the NFRC or the CORC for the same reassurances with any roofing works.

What To Use To Safely Block The Bottom Of The Chimney

There are a number of ways to block the chimney safely, some are easier than others. Let’s have a look at them to see which method suits you best.

Chimney Balloon

This is an inflatable plastic bag that is inserted into the chimney just high enough to be out of sight, then inflated. The chimney balloon has a small hole to allow ventilation but not large enough to lose much heat. If you ever decide to reuse the fireplace for a real fire, simply deflate the balloon and the chimney is open again.

Just measure the inside of the chimney just above the eyeline. Be sure to measure all 4 sides. Then buy the appropriate size for your chimney. These can be purchased online for around £15

Chimney Sheep

This has been described as the chimney draught excluder, and that’s a pretty good description. As the name implies, it’s made from wool, and it simply pushes up into the chimney to block the hole. It prevents draughts and moisture but still allows the chimney to breathe.

Follow the measuring instructions for the chimney balloon and order the appropriate size for your chimney. These are available online for around £10 to £20 depending on the size.

Using Plywood To Block The Chimney

When we removed our old back boiler, we were left with a gaping hole that looked unsightly and let cold air into our home. We set about boxing it in so we could fit an electric log burner effect stove in the space left from the removal of the boiler. We secured some 2 x 1 around each of the 4 sides, just above the eyeline.

We then attached a piece of plywood to the underside of the 2 x1 and drilled 4 holes in the middle of the plywood. We screwed a vent over the holes to allow the chimney to breathe then placed the electric log burner in the hole.

On the outside we secured a piece of 4 x2 to the wall either side of the fireplace and screwed an 8 inch wide, 1 inch thick piece of wood along the length of the top. This was then undercoated, and painted white and now we have a wooden mantlepiece with a log burner inside.

How To Block The Chimney From Outside

We never tackled this, our chimney has a vent on it that prevents birds and to a certain extent rain getting through. But if you have an open chimney with no vent it is favourable to get this blocked properly. If you feel confident you can get up on the roof and have a go yourself or hire a professional.

To supply and fit a chimney cap will cost around £150 to £250 depending on the type of chimney you have and the area you live in. Be prepared for additional costs that might crop up like:

Scaffold hire costs
Depending how high your property is and the builder/roofer/chimney sweep doing the work they might insist on scaffolding. Discuss this and any other hidden costs before entering into any agreement.
Repairs to chimney mortar or brickwork
If nobody has been on your roof for a while there is always the possibility that the mortar or even some bricks are missing or in need of repair/replacement.
Damaged chimney cap or crown
This is not always obvious from the ground, but could be a problem. Be sure to get a quote before any work is carried out.

In the old days chimneys were capped using lead capping, but they can cause condensation, so now roofers use the C-Cap. C-Caps prevent heat loss while still allowing ventilation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need an air vent for an electric fire?

Electric fires need no vents at all, because they produce no gases, smoke or other harmful pollutants. However, if you are putting an electric fire in an old fireplace that you have blocked, that will probably need a vent to prevent damp.

Can you put an electric fire in a fireplace?

You can put an electric fire in a fireplace as long as you have a socket nearby. It is not safe to run an electric fire on an extension cable.

What keeps rain from coming down a chimney?

Chimneys have cowlings or caps to prevent rainwater from coming down the chimney.

How do I stop cold air coming down my chimney?

If you are not using the chimney, you can stop cold air coming down it by installing a chimney balloon or a chimney sheep.

Can a blocked chimney cause damp?

A blocked chimney can cause damp due to condensation building up inside. If the top is capped and the bottom is blocked there is nowhere else for the moisture to go, than through the walls. The chimney needs to be vented to prevent this damp.

Do chimneys let cold air in?

Chimneys do let cold air in when not in use. When there is a fire burning the chimney sucks hot air and smoke out and allows fresh air to enter. When not in use it sucks warm air from the room and replaces it with cold air.

Is it normal for rain to drop down chimneys?

It is normal for rain to drop down damaged or worn chimneys.

How much can you save by blocking a chimney?

You can reduce air leaks by 14% and save around £200 per year by blocking the chimney according to the US Department of Energy.

What to Do If You Have a Blocked Flue Liner

Chimneys are an important feature of a home, and having a blocked chimney flue liner can result in many issues. The purpose of a chimney is to maintain a fire and act as a way to get dangerous byproducts like creosote out of your home’s living spaces.

Creosote is a dark brown oil that’s a derived from the burning of wood and it’s an extremely flammable substance. If your chimney is blocked, you don’t want to risk a chimney fire with the potential presence of creosote.

A blocked chimney can lead to a host of potential hazards. Chimney fires can be dangerous and cause costly problems and repairs that require further fixing. It’s important to regularly inspect your chimney to make sure there is no blockage in the flue liner, and if there is, you can take the proper steps to unblock it.

What is a Flue Liner?

A flue liner is a conduit inside of the chimney that is made from clay, ceramic or metal material. According to the Chimney Safety Institute of America, a chimney or flue liner has three important purposes:

Heat Transfer

A flue liner protects your home against potential fires by regulating heat transfer. Chimneys without liners move heat so quickly through the chimney that combustibles, like nearby woodwork, caught fire in less than 4 hours.

Protect the Masonry

Without the use of a flue liner, the lifetime of the surrounding chimney masonry greatly deteriorates. The acidic gases that a burning fire produces will degenerate mortar joints. The mortar joints aids in the prevention of the fire from catching on other burnable parts surrounding the chimney.

Maximum Efficiency

Flue liners are can consist of clay, ceramic, or metal. Each material provides different levels of efficiency, absorption rates, and heat distribution. Any of these materials used for a flue liner will help transfer dangerous combustibles from the home to the outside, ensuring that the chimney system works to its fullest capability.

While flue liners do their job in protecting the chimney and its masonry, it’s important to occasionally use a flashlight and take a look to make sure they are not blocked. You want your flue liner to perform all of its functions correctly in order to keep out toxic fumes from the inside of your home.

What Causes a Blocked Flue Liner?

Animals are often the main culprits behind a blocked flue liner. Small animals like squirrels and birds bring nesting materials inside the chimney that can block the flue liner passage. If you don’t regularly check your chimney or schedule annual chimney inspections, animals could be finding a way through the cap of the chimney.

If you have large trees above your home, their debris like leaves, twigs and small branches or seeds can fall into the chimney and cause a blockage.

Another cause is the buildup of creosote and as mentioned previously, this can be particularly hazardous. While creosote is a naturally produced by a burning fire, it can accumulate in the flue liner and cause a blockage. You need to have your chimney cleaned to remove the creosote.

The Symptoms of a Blocked Flue Liner

There are signs that you need to be on the lookout for in case you may have a blocked flue liner. Being responsive to these symptoms can prevent costly damages and help prevent the potential of a fire breaking out in your home.

Signs of a blocked chimney and its flue liner include:

An excessive smell of smoke during a fire
A white residue on the walls of the flue liner
Water leakage
Debris falling towards the base of the fireplace

A blocked chimney can lead to a dangerous chimney fire. Sometimes chimney fires make loud echoing noises, while other times, the only sign of them are the flames erupting from the top of the chimney. Having a blockage in the chimney’s flue liner can also cause carbon monoxide poisoning. The presence of carbon monoxide in a home can be fatal to humans and pets.

How to Unblock Your Flue Liner

While you can unblock your flue liner by yourself, hiring a professional is not a bad idea. You can unblock your flue liner as a do-it-yourself project in just a few hours, but just make sure you have the right tools and know-how to do so.

If you do choose to do this project, here is what you will need:

A ladder
Flashlight or headlamp
Protective gear such as eye wear, gloves, mask, and long sleeves
Broom and cleaning brushes suitable for cleaning the inside of the chimney
Protective sheets and drop cloths

Step 1: Cleaning from Above

Place your ladder against the side of your house and safely climb onto the roof to reach the chimney cap. It is imperative that you do this carefully and test that the ladder is stable against the ground. It is also recommended that for this part of unblocking your flue liner, you have a friend or family member spot you while you’re climbing the ladder and onto the roof.

While wearing your protective eye wear, gloves and mask, take off the chimney cap. The cap should pull right off with a little applied force. Clean the chimney cap with a scrubbing brush to remove any debris.

Proceed to inspect the inside of the chimney with a flashlight. Use your brush to clean out the top portion of the chimney, either by pushing or pulling out the debris.

When finished, put the chimney cap back on.

Step 2: Cleaning from Below

After climbing back down the ladder and off of the roof, it’s time to do the same cleaning process, only from the bottom of the chimney. To do this, you’ll need to go back inside.

There is a potential for this step to get messy, so you will want to put as many covers and drop cloths down in the room. Soot is difficult to contain, so make sure you have a vacuum nearby to contain the debris.

Use your flashlight to determine where the debris and blockage is located in the flue liner. Using your wire brush, clean out the chimney until it appears clear of any blockage. Any debris will fall to the floor of the fireplace; clean these up when you’re finished.

If you still see the symptoms of a blocked flue liner when burning a fire, you may want to turn to a certified chimney sweep for assistance.

When in Doubt, Call in the Professionals

For blocked flue liners, you’ll know when it’s time to hire a professional chimney cleaner. If you’re still having issues with your chimney functionality after you cleaned it yourself, then you may require professional assistance.

Professional chimney companies use tools specifically designed to unblock chimneys and flue liners, so if your wire brush did not adequately unblock the chimney, chances are the professionals will have a more effective tool.

You can prevent blockages in your flue liner by regularly scheduling chimney inspections and cleanings. You can feel better about avoiding devastating hazards when you hire a professional and certified company to thoroughly clean your chimney once a year. Contact us today!

Weak chimney draft – how to deal with it? – Vermilogic

Proper operation of the chimney draft guarantees the safety of family members

The chimney is one of the most important elements of the whole house. Its correct operation guarantees safety. Unfortunately, design errors or carelessness on the part of users affect the operation of the entire installation. What are the most common causes of weak chimney draft and how to fix them?

Chimney draft is the movement of flue gases or smoke from the bottom of the chimney to its outlet. It occurs as a result of the density difference between the warm air inside the chimney and the cold air outside. The greater the difference in these temperatures, the greater the chimney draft. Its strength depends primarily on the height of the chimney and the size of its cross section.

Although most of the chimney parameters are recorded in the manufacturer’s declaration, they differ from the chimney draft. If the product is certified, correctly selected and manufactured, there should be no problems with the chimney draft. However, there are design errors, such as placing the chimney too low relative to the crest, or the presence of an obstacle that is part of the building, which effectively weakens the draft.

Most common causes of low chimney draft

Chimney draft problems can occur when the house is built next to obstacles such as hills, tall trees or blocks. Then the direction of the wind will move behind the obstacle, causing a weakening of the draft and even creating a reverse draft, that is, the wind will blow into the chimney. In such a situation, a smoke wave type cover or rotating base, called a fire baffle, must be installed at the outlet of the chimney. They protect the chimney from wind into the chimney. It should be remembered that swivel bases are mechanical devices and must be checked.

Poor chimney draft can cause small chimney diameter in relation to the heating device. The way to solve this problem is to raise the chimney, which will increase the draft and install the appropriate base, i.e. the top of the injector. If you’re still having problems with low traction, it’s worth looking into boosting traction. This should be done by a specialized company – this is a complex procedure in terms of setting up interacting devices.

Many users are faced with the problem when the draft deteriorates in a renovated house with a new clinker brick chimney.

Chimney design

Chimney outlets must be installed above the roof to an appropriate height. With steep roofs at an angle of more than 12° and flammable pavement – not less than 0.6 m above the ridge level.
– Slotted clinker brick is a decorative material intended for building systems or chimneys made of solid brick – it cannot be used for building a chimney. However, if we have such a chimney, it should be fitted with a certified steel insert and then cleaned regularly. This is very important because this type of chimney works like a cooler – the exhaust gases cool quickly, condensates, soot are formed, which accumulate on a damp chimney, and as a result, the chimney is blocked, intense smoke and even soot.

One of the most important and basic elements that ensure the correct chimney draft is the fuel and its quality. Therefore, the chimney draft will be adversely affected by wet, unseasoned wood, wet organic pea coal, or contaminated pellets.

The most common problem in the low thrust range is the lack of combustion air supply, the so-called out-ETKA. This means not only low draft, but also a correct combustion process, as well as proper ventilation and the safety of family members.

How to ensure the correct chimney draft throughout the year?

Periodic chimney checks and regular cleaning are reliable methods for good chimney draft. These activities must be entrusted to the master chimney sweep and carried out twice a year – until May 31 and November 31. The specialist will check the condition of the chimney, its permeability, the correctness of the course and the tightness of the chimneys. At the same time, he will also check the condition of the chimney above the roof and the correct functioning of the chimney plugs. Then, in a vertical plane, the correct functioning of the devices connected to the wires is examined.

Chimney cleaning

In turn, chimney cleaning should be carried out in the case of air ducts from solid fuel stoves – 4 times a year, air ducts from gas and liquid fuels – 2 times a year, and ventilation ducts – once a year. Periodic checks and cleaning of chimneys will ensure good draft throughout the year. A chimney sweep who checks the condition of the chimney, if he encounters any irregularities or problems, will help to solve them.

Please note that when building a chimney system from Vermilogic blocks, you will forever forget about cleaning the chimney. This is due to the fact that the inner surface of the chimney remains in a warm state during the operation of the furnace, in which soot either burns out or flies away with the exhaust gases into the atmosphere. As a rule, only a coating in the form of black pollen forms on the walls of the pipes, which does not affect the operation of the furnace. If necessary, it can be removed with soft brushes.

Selection guide – Rosinox

The chimney material is selected depending on the type of thermal power plant and the type of fuel burned, and must meet the requirements of heat resistance and acid resistance.

In the production of stainless chimneys, high-quality stainless steel and basalt fiber insulation are used.

Installation type	Flue gas temperature	Thickness and type of insulation	Steel type
Condensing gas boilers	60 ^o C	25 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	acid resistant
Gas boilers	110-180 ^o C	25 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	acid resistant
Microturbine units	300 ^o C	50 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	acid resistant
Gas piston units	450-500 ^o C	50 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	heat resistant
Diesel generator sets	450-500 ^o C	50 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	heat resistant
Gas turbine units	450-600 ^o C	50 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	heat resistant
Diesel boilers	150-250 ^o C	25 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	acid resistant
Solid fuel boilers	400-700 ^o C	50-100 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	heat resistant
Fireplaces	300-600 ^o C	50-100 mm, unbonded basalt fiber	heat resistant, acid resistant

At high flue gas temperatures (300 ^o C), the use of pure basalt fiber without binder ensures the stability of the insulation layer, since the absence of binder components prevents their decay and burnout.

The data are given for the climatic conditions of the middle zone. For the southern and northern regions, the conditions for selecting chimney materials will differ, depending on the geographic latitude and the average temperatures of the heating season.

The diameter of the chimney depends on the capacity of the thermal power plant and must be equal to the diameter of the flue outlet of the heat generator.

The diameter of the outer pipe of an insulated chimney is determined by the thickness of the insulation and is calculated as the diameter of the inner pipe plus the thickness of the insulation multiplied by two.

The diameter of the smoke channel affects the speed of flue gases, the calculated value of which, according to NPB 252–98, should be in the range of 0.15–0.60 m/s.

For the correct calculation of the necessary design parameters according to DIN 4705, it is necessary to know all the technical data of the thermal power plant, the chimney system and the connecting elements.

The selection of the diameter of the chimney can be carried out in two ways:

Comparison method

Calculation of the parameters of the chimney and connecting pipes for boilers operating on any type of fuel is based on a comparison of the vacuum at the point of entry of combustion products into the chimney (Pz) with the required vacuum, which is equal to the sum of the pressure losses in the heat generator (Pw) , in the connecting pipe (Pfv) and in the air path (Pl).

Pz?(Pw+Pfv+Pl)

To solve this inequality, an iterative method is used [clause 4 of DIN 4705].

Diagram method

To optimize the selection of the chimney diameter, it is recommended to use a graphical method based on diagrams, by which the chimney diameter is calculated from the length of the chimney.

The diagrams take into account the rated thermal output of the installations and local resistance factors depending on the configuration of the chimney.

The following values of coefficients are accepted:

– Branch 15 – 0.10
– Elbow 22-30 – 0.15
– Elbow 45 – 0.30
– Elbow 90 – 0.60
– Change to smaller diameter – 0.25
– Change to larger diameter – 0.10
– Tee – 1.00
– Deflector – 0.5

The total coefficient of local chimney resistance must be in the range 1-4.

Here are diagrams for calculating the parameters of the chimney for heat generators of the following types:

Diesel and gas boilers with an efficiency of more than 85%, with a fan burner and a closed combustion chamber (sealed) (flue gas temperature up to 200 degrees).
Gas boilers with an efficiency of more than 85%, with a fan burner and an open combustion chamber (leaky) (flue gas temperature up to 150 to 200 degrees).
Diesel and gas boilers with a fan burner and a closed combustion chamber (sealed) (flue gas temperature up to 250 degrees).
Diesel and gas boilers with an open combustion chamber under vacuum (flue gas temperature up to 250 degrees).
Atmospheric gas boilers with an open combustion chamber (leaky) (exhaust gas temperature 180 degrees).
Solid fuel boilers and fireplaces with a closed furnace (flue gas temperature up to 700 degrees).
Fireplaces with open hearth (flue gas temperature up to 600 degrees).

The charts are based on the following conditions:

– The average geodetic mark corresponds to 200 m;
– The length of the connecting chimney is assumed to be 3 m;
– The total coefficients of local resistances are 2 and 4.

If the length of the connecting chimney is more or less than three meters, the value of the total coefficient of local resistance should be corrected, respectively increasing or decreasing it by 0.1 for each meter of length, and the cross section of the chimney should be determined by linear interpolation.

For geodetic elevations other than 200 m, the chimney section should be changed by 10% for every 500 m of height.

There are two main types of modular stainless chimneys – non-insulated (MONO) and insulated (TERMO) chimneys.

Uninsulated chimneys (MONO)

Uninsulated chimneys are single layer. They are often used in already built houses in which a brick channel is allocated for the chimney. Then the steel pipe acts as an insert. Liners installed in traditional chimneys quickly heat up, and the temperature of the exhaust gases quickly overcomes the “dew point”, while significantly increasing the efficiency of the heat generator and solving the problem of soot deposits.

True, there is a limitation – the installation of an uninsulated stainless liner in an old smoke channel is impossible in case of its curvature, axial displacement or small diameter.

You can install such chimneys autonomously, but, of course, only indoors.

Insulated chimneys (THERMO)

Insulated chimneys are designed for use as a self-contained structure resistant to high temperatures, acids and atmospheric influences.

Insulated chimneys consist of three layers – outer and inner pipes and a layer of high-density heat-resistant insulation with low thermal conductivity located between them.

Insulated chimneys can be installed both inside – in a shaft or a specially equipped channel, and outside the building, while they are fixed either on the outer wall of the building or on a free-standing metal structure (mast).

The insulation performs three functions at once: it protects against burns, prevents the house structures from heating (which is especially important if they are made of combustible material) and, finally, protects the chimney from rapid cooling, which ensures good traction, a high rate of emission of combustion products and reduces condensation. in cold areas, the efficiency of the heat generator is increased.

Non-combustible basalt fiber is used as insulation.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer depends on climatic conditions and the type of fuel used.

The design of the insulated chimney is characterized by low thermal conductivity. This significantly limits the transfer of heat from the inner pipe to the outer one. Thus, it is possible to avoid heating and deformation of the structures next to which the chimney is installed.

Even when using an uninsulated chimney on a “hot” heat generator – a solid fuel boiler or fireplace, the upper part of the pipe, half a meter before entering the cold zone, must be insulated. This is due to the fact that at a considerable distance from the heat generator (10–12 m), the gases have a temperature lower than near it, therefore, when interacting with the external environment, the walls of the chimney do not warm up, which provokes active condensation.

These are various modifications of insulated and non-insulated structures for use in collective heating systems, in particular for apartment heating.

Apartment heating systems are used, as a rule, in residential buildings, including those with built-in public facilities.

As heat sources for apartment heating systems, individual heat generators should be used – automated boilers of full factory readiness for various types of fuel, including natural gas, operating without permanent attendants.

Heat generators of the same type can be connected to the collective chimney, the heat output of which differs by no more than 30% down from the heat generator with the highest heat output.

No more than 8 heat generators and no more than one heat generator per floor should be connected to one collective chimney.

The chimney must have a vertical direction and not have narrowings. It is forbidden to lay chimneys through residential premises.

Chimneys must be smooth and “gas-tight”, made of structures and materials capable of withstanding mechanical stress, temperature effects, corrosive effects of combustion products and condensate without loss of tightness and strength.

[Based on SNiP 41-01-2003]

There are several schemes for the removal of combustion products during apartment heating. The classical scheme is based on the use of a coaxial chimney, the principle of which is that it simultaneously performs two functions – smoke removal and combustion air supply.

Scheme 1

The coaxial chimney is brought out into the street and a special deflector is mounted at its end to protect it from precipitation and gusts of wind. This is the simplest scheme that does not require additional engineering arrangement of the building. The disadvantage of the scheme is that at low temperatures, the deflector is iced up and the chimney is “locked”, leading to the blocking of the boiler.

Scheme 2

Coaxial chimney leads into a shaft with two channels. The inner pipe is discharged into a channel designed for smoke removal, in which there is an upward flow of flue gases, formed due to the difference in densities of flue gases and outside air. The outer pipe has an exit to the shaft channel, intended for the entry of atmospheric air for combustion.

This scheme involves the construction of a two-channel mine, and, therefore, is more expensive in terms of initial investment.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the same as in the first case – too cold air supplied to the boiler for combustion leads to the formation of an ice plug at the mouth of the outer pipe of the coaxial chimney, as a result of which the air intake gap of the chimney is “locked” and the boiler is blocked.

Both schemes of the coaxial chimney described above have a similar drawback – they are not designed to work in the Russian climate, when the air temperature during the heating season drops much below zero. This is because with a complex structure designed to simultaneously form both cold and warm flows, under conditions of a large temperature difference, a complex and uneven temperature regime occurs, due to both external, weather conditions, and heat loss of the inner coaxial pipe. As a result, active release and freezing of condensate in the cold zone.

Despite the fact that there is a positive experience of using coaxial chimneys in the southern regions of Russia, they are not widely used.

Scheme 3

An alternative to coaxial chimneys, applicable for chimney heating for apartment heating in the Russian climate, is a separate collective chimney scheme, which can be implemented using Rosinox ^{® chimneys.}
The principle that is implemented in this scheme is that the processes of smoke removal and combustion air supply do not occur in a single coaxial pipe, but in separate pipes. Otherwise, “Scheme 3” is similar to “Scheme 2”, since the air intake comes from a shaft, for example, a ventilation one. Smoke removal can be carried out without equipping a separate shaft, using an insulated vertical chimney, which carries a load of up to eight heat generators located on different floors.

The separation of cold and warm flows minimizes the risk of ice blockages in the chimney and makes it possible to organize apartment heating using wall-mounted gas boilers in cold climates.

Stainless steel chimneys are assembled from separate modules, connected to each other “in a socket”. The socket connection does not use welding and flanges, which significantly reduces the labor costs and time required to install the system.

This type of connection also provides vapor and gas tightness, low aerodynamic resistance and the ability to operate the chimney both under vacuum and overpressure conditions. Complete tightness of the system is achieved by using a silicone ring.

Due to the modularity of the design, such an important property of a stainless chimney as compensation for thermal expansion is provided, both through the use of special compensating modules, and due to the mobility of the elements relative to each other in a coaxial direction.

All elements of the chimney, both insulated and non-insulated, are standardized in size and compatible with each other, which allows, when designing a smoke exhaust system, to accurately take into account the configuration of the space into which it is necessary to “fit” the chimney and in advance, already at the design stage, select the necessary elements.

The standardization of elements is also important for stocking, while unique elements can only be made to order.

Due to the unified dimensions, the design of the chimney is carried out “office”, based on the customer’s technical specifications, which, ideally, should be a floor plan indicating the exact location of the heat generator, its type and power, as well as a height plan.

The recommended height of the chimney is at least five meters from the outlet of the heat generator, with the exception of some types of pressurized inflatable boilers, otherwise the necessary draft will not develop in the smoke channel. If the chimney is planned to be installed in an area of high-rise urban development, it is also necessary to indicate the dispersion height, which is determined by the height of the houses located in the immediate vicinity. At the same time, it should be remembered that the draft may be excessive, which in turn leads to the so-called “flame separation” and the boiler shutdown in emergency mode.

Obviously, in order to correctly calculate the length, diameter, configuration and insulation of the chimney, you need to have a certain set of technical parameters and be able to take into account their mutual influence. The calculation of the chimney is a technically complex matter, chimney manufacturers advise to contact professionals for this.

Such different chimneys
The impact of hydrocarbon fuel combustion products on humans and the environment
Products of combustion of various types of fuel
Reference information on apartment heating

Chimneys for apartment heating (COLLECTIVE)

Coaxial chimney leads into a shaft with two channels. The inner pipe is discharged into a channel designed for smoke removal, in which there is an upward flow of flue gases, formed due to the difference in densities of flue gases and outside air. The outer pipe has an exit to the shaft channel, intended for the entry of atmospheric air for combustion.

This scheme involves the construction of a two-channel mine, and, therefore, is more expensive in terms of initial investment.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the same as in the first case – too cold air supplied to the boiler for combustion leads to the formation of an ice plug at the mouth of the outer pipe of the coaxial chimney, as a result of which the air intake gap of the chimney is “locked” and the boiler is blocked.

The separation of cold and warm flows minimizes the risk of ice blockages in the chimney and makes it possible to organize apartment heating using wall-mounted gas boilers in cold climates.

French TV channel called the chimney of the building near ZNPP a Russian missile

https://ria.ru/20220823/dymokhod-1811526814.html rocket – RIA Novosti, 08/23/2022

French TV channel called the chimney of the building near the Zaporozhye NPP a Russian missile

The French TV channel France 2 apologized for giving out a damaged chimney on the roof of the building in the immediate vicinity of the Zaporozhye nuclear power plant RIA Novosti, 08/23/2022

2022-08-23T12:48

special military operation in ukraine

in the world

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France

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PARIS, August 23 – RIA Novosti. The French television channel France 2 apologized for passing off a damaged chimney on the roof of a building in the immediate vicinity of the Zaporozhye nuclear power plant as a Russian rocket. “In particular, this (news) story was based on photos received from the APTN agency … By mistake, one of them was misinterpreted. It shows a damaged chimney, not a rocket, as indicated in the comment. We apologize to our viewers for this unfortunate mistake,” the channel says on Twitter. that is visible in the background. Its design was partially destroyed by a hit of ammunition, traces of a small gap are visible around. The base was damaged, which led to the fact that the chimney tilted significantly to the side. The story about this was shown on the TV channel on August 10 in the evening news at 20.00 local time, but France 2 apologized only late in the evening on August 22. The ZNPP is located on the left bank Dnieper near Energodar. This is the largest nuclear power plant in Europe in terms of the number of units and installed capacity. Since March, it has been under the protection of the Russian military. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Russian Federation emphasized the justification for the Russian military to take under the protection of the power plant in terms of preventing leaks of nuclear and radioactive materials. The Ukrainian military continues to regularly shell Energodar, the surrounding villages and the territory of the Zaporozhye nuclear power plant adjacent to the city.

https://ria.ru/20220805/feyki-1807656754.html

https://ria.ru/20220721/zaes-1803914730.html

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in the world, Energodar, Europe, Zaporozhye NPP, France

Special military operation in Ukraine, In the world, Energodar, Europe, Zaporozhye NPP, France

PARIS, August 23 – RIA Novosti. The French TV channel France 2 has apologized for passing off a damaged chimney on the roof of a building in the immediate vicinity of the Zaporozhye nuclear power plant as a Russian missile.

“In particular, this (news) story was based on photos received from the APTN agency … One of them was misinterpreted by mistake. It shows a damaged chimney, not a rocket, as indicated in the comment. We apologize to our viewers for this unfortunate mistake,” the channel said on Twitter.

August 5, 21:38Special military operation in Ukraine

Foreign journalists arrived in Zaporozhye region to film fake news

The photo showed a chimney pipe on the roof of one of the buildings next to the ZNPP, which is visible in the background. Its design was partially destroyed by a hit of ammunition, traces of a small gap are visible around. The base was damaged, causing the chimney to tilt significantly to the side.

The story was shown on the TV channel on August 10 in the evening newscast at 20. 00 local time, but France 2 apologized only late in the evening of August 22.

ZNPP is located on the left bank of the Dnieper near Energodar. This is the largest nuclear power plant in Europe in terms of the number of units and installed capacity. Since March, it has been under the protection of the Russian military. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Russian Federation emphasized the justification for the Russian military to take under the protection of the power plant in terms of preventing leaks of nuclear and radioactive materials. The Ukrainian military continues to regularly shell Energodar, the surrounding villages and the territory of the Zaporozhye nuclear power plant adjacent to the city.

July 21, 08:00

Kyiv beats at the Zaporizhzhya nuclear power plant with a long sight

chimneys for apartment heating collective

Home »Heating for apartment heating Collective

Chimney chimneys (collective)

9000

is different modifications of insulated and non-insulated structures for use in collective heating systems, in particular, for apartment heating. Apartment heating systems are used, as a rule, in residential buildings, including those with built-in public facilities. As heat sources for apartment heating systems, individual heat generators should be used – automated boilers of full factory readiness for various types of fuel, including natural gas, operating without permanent attendants. Heat generators of the same type can be connected to the collective chimney, the heat output of which differs by no more than 30% down from the heat generator with the highest heat output. No more than 8 heat generators and no more than one heat generator per floor should be connected to one collective chimney. The chimney must have a vertical direction and not have narrowings. It is forbidden to lay chimneys through residential premises. Chimneys must be smooth and gas-tight, from structures and materials that can withstand mechanical stress, temperature effects, corrosive effects of combustion products and condensate without loss of tightness and strength.

[Based on SNiP 41-01-2003]

Scheme 1 The coaxial chimney is led outside and a special deflector is mounted at its end to protect against precipitation and gusts of wind. This is the simplest scheme that does not require additional engineering arrangement of the building. The disadvantage of the scheme is that at low temperatures, the deflector is iced up and the chimney is “locked”, leading to the blocking of the boiler.

Scheme 2 The coaxial chimney is discharged into a shaft with two channels. The inner pipe is discharged into a channel designed for smoke removal, in which there is an upward flow of flue gases, formed due to the difference in densities of flue gases and outside air. The outer pipe has an exit to the shaft channel, intended for the entry of atmospheric air for combustion. This scheme involves the construction of a two-channel mine, and, therefore, is more expensive in terms of initial investment.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the same as in the first case – too cold air supplied to the boiler for combustion leads to the formation of an ice plug at the mouth of the outer pipe of the coaxial chimney, as a result of which the air intake gap of the chimney is “locked” and the boiler is blocked.

Both schemes of the coaxial chimney described above have a similar drawback – they are not designed to work in the Russian climate, when the air temperature during the heating season drops much below zero. This is because with a complex structure designed to simultaneously form both cold and warm flows, under conditions of a large temperature difference, a complex and uneven temperature regime occurs, due to both external, weather conditions, and heat loss of the inner coaxial pipe. As a result, active release and freezing of condensate in the cold zone. Despite the fact that there is a positive experience of using coaxial chimneys in the southern regions of Russia, they are not widely used.

Scheme 3 An alternative to coaxial chimneys, applicable for chimney heating in apartment heating in the Russian climate, is a separate collective chimney scheme, which can be implemented using Rosinox® chimneys. The principle that is implemented in this scheme is that the processes of smoke removal and combustion air supply do not occur in a single coaxial pipe, but in separate pipes. Otherwise, “Scheme 3” is similar to “Scheme 2”, since the air intake comes from a shaft, for example, a ventilation one. Smoke removal can be carried out without equipping a separate shaft, using an insulated vertical chimney, which carries a load of up to eight heat generators located on different floors.

The separation of cold and warm flows minimizes the risk of ice blockages in the chimney and makes it possible to organize apartment heating using wall-mounted gas boilers in cold climates.

teplo-faq.net

Chimneys for apartment heating (COLLECTIVE)

These are various modifications of insulated and non-insulated structures for use in collective heating systems, in particular, for apartment heating. Apartment heating systems are used, as a rule, in residential buildings, including those with built-in public facilities. As heat sources for apartment heating systems, individual heat generators should be used – automated boilers of full factory readiness for various types of fuel, including natural gas, operating without permanent attendants. Heat generators of the same type can be connected to the collective chimney, the heat output of which differs by no more than 30% down from the heat generator with the highest heat output. No more than 8 heat generators and no more than one heat generator per floor should be connected to one collective chimney. The chimney must have a vertical direction and not have narrowings. It is forbidden to lay chimneys through residential premises.

Chimneys must be smooth and “gas-tight”, made of structures and materials that can withstand mechanical stress, temperature effects, corrosive effects of combustion products and condensate without loss of tightness and strength.

[Based on SNiP 41-01-2003]

Scheme 1 The coaxial chimney is brought outside and a special deflector is mounted at its end to protect against precipitation and gusts of wind. This is the simplest scheme that does not require additional engineering arrangement of the building. The disadvantage of the scheme is that at low temperatures, the deflector is iced up and the chimney is “locked”, leading to the blocking of the boiler.

Both schemes of the coaxial chimney described above have a similar drawback – they are not designed to work in the Russian climate, when the air temperature during the heating season drops much below zero. This is because with a complex structure designed to simultaneously form both cold and warm flows, under conditions of a large temperature difference, a complex and uneven temperature regime occurs, due to both external, weather conditions, and heat loss of the inner coaxial pipe. As a result, active release and freezing of condensate in the cold zone. Despite the fact that there is a positive experience of using coaxial chimneys in the southern regions of Russia, they are not widely used.

The separation of cold and warm flows minimizes the risk of ice blockages in the chimney and makes it possible to organize apartment heating using wall-mounted gas boilers in cold climates.

www.rosinox-klin.ru

РџРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРµ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёРµ Рё РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹Рµ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґС‹

Termostroy-SPB.ru

P-collective)

This is various modifications of the integrated and unwilling to use, and indignant apartment heating. Apartment heating systems are used, as a rule, in residential buildings, including those with built-in public facilities. As heat sources for apartment heating systems, individual heat generators should be used – automated boilers of full factory readiness for various types of fuel, including natural gas, operating without permanent attendants. Heat generators of the same type can be connected to the collective chimney, the heat output of which differs by no more than 30% down from the heat generator with the highest heat output. No more than 8 heat generators and no more than one heat generator per floor should be connected to one collective chimney. The chimney must have a vertical direction and not have narrowings. It is forbidden to lay chimneys through residential premises. Chimneys must be smooth and gas-tight, from structures and materials that can withstand mechanical stress, temperature effects, corrosive effects of combustion products and condensate without loss of tightness and strength.

[Based on SNiP 41-01-2003]

Both schemes of the coaxial chimney described above have a similar drawback – they are not designed to work in the Russian climate, when the air temperature during the heating season drops much below zero. This is because with a complex structure designed to simultaneously form both cold and warm flows, under conditions of a large temperature difference, a complex and uneven temperature regime occurs, due to both external, weather conditions, and heat loss of the inner coaxial pipe. As a result, active release and freezing of condensate in the cold zone. Despite the fact that there is a positive experience of using coaxial chimneys in the southern regions of Russia, they are not widely used.

The separation of cold and warm flows minimizes the risk of ice blockages in the chimney and makes it possible to organize apartment heating using wall-mounted gas boilers in cold climates.

teplo-faq.net

Р•РІСЂРѕРїРµР№СЃРєРёР№ СЂС‹РЅРѕРє СѓР ¶Rµ pјrѕrѕrѕrѕrѕ r “RPLA‚ Р ° ° ° ° Rї rhesђreys € € € € ‹РіРѕ † † † † † † † † ± s 12 ° · · · · · · · · rґr № SЃРёСЃС‚РµРјРµ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ РІ РјРЅРѕРіРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅС‹С… РґРѕРјР°С…. РџСЂРё РґР°РЅРЅРѕР№ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјРµ РѕС‚РѕРїРёС‚РµР»СЊРЅС‹Р№ РїСЂРёР±РѕСЂ (РєРѕС‚РµР») СѓСЃС‚Р°РЅР°РІР»РёРІР°РµС‚СЃСЏ РЅРµРїРѕСЃСЂРµРґСЃС‚РІРµРЅРЅРѕ РІ РєР°Р¶РґРѕР№ РѕС‚РґРµР»СЊРЅРѕР№ РєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРµ. РЎРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РёРЅРґРёРІРёРґСѓР°Р»СЊРЅРѕРіРѕ РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ РіР°СЂР°РЅС‚РёСЂСѓРµС‚ СЌРєРѕРЅРѕРјРёС‡РЅРѕСЃС‚СЊ Рё РєРѕРјС„РѕСЂС‚ РїСЂРё РµРµ СЌРєСЃРїР»СѓР°С‚Р°С†РёРё .

Рљ РїСЂРµРёРјСѓС‰РµСЃС‚РІР°Рј РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕР№ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ РјРѕР¶РЅРѕ РѕС‚РЅРµСЃС‚Рё:

РРєРѕРЅРѕРјРёС‡РµСЃРєР°СЏ РІС‹РіРѕРґР°. R’C ‹SR ° ° ° ° ° РµS, ° C · r · r ° С ‡ ° С ‡ ° µ ° РѕРѕРѕРѕРѕРѕР¶Р¶РѕРѕ ѓ ѓr ђr ° С ° Сѓ ° С ° С ѕ ° ° ° °. РїРѕСЃРєРѕР»СЊРєСѓ РѕРїР»Р°С‡РёРІР°С‚СЊ РїСЂРёРґРµС‚СЃСЏ С‚РѕР»СЊРєРѕ СЃС‚РѕРёРјРѕСЃС‚СЊ РїРѕС‚СЂРµР±Р»РµРЅРЅРѕРіРѕ РіР°Р·Р° Рё С…РѕР»РѕРґРЅРѕР№ РІРѕРґС‹. Р’ СЃСЂРµРґРЅРµРј РїРµСЂРµРІРѕРґ РєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂС‹ РЅР° Р°РІС‚РѕРЅРѕРјРЅРѕРµ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёРµ РїРѕР·РІРѕР»СЏРµС‚ РІ 3-5 СЂР°Р· СЃРЅРёР·РёС‚СЊ СЂР°СЃС…РѕРґС‹ РЅР° РѕРїР »R°S‚Sѓ SѓSЃR»SœPi RsS‚PsRїR»RµPSRёС Рё РіРѕСЂСЏС‡РµРіРѕ РІРѕРґРѕСЃРЅР°Р±Р¶РµРЅРёСЏ.
РЈРґРѕР±СЃС‚РІРѕ, РєРѕРјС„РѕСЂС‚ Рё РЅРµР·Р°РІРёСЃРёРјРѕСЃС‚СЊ РѕС‚ РІРЅРµС€РЅРёС… РїРѕСЃС‚Р°РІС‰РёРєРѕРІ С‚РµРїР»РѕСЃРЅР°Р±Р¶РµРЅРёСЏ.

Р”Р»СЏ РѕСЂРіР°РЅРёР·Р°С†РёРё РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ РїСЂРёРјРµРЅСЏСЋС‚СЃСЏ СЂР°Р·Р»РёС‡РЅС‹Рµ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ : РєРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅС‹Рµ (РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹Рµ) РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґС‹ СЃ РѕРґРЅРѕРІСЂРµРјРµРЅРЅС‹Рј Р·Р°Р±РѕСЂРѕРј РІРѕР·РґСѓС…Р° РґР»СЏ РіРѕСЂРµРЅРёСЏ Рё РІС ‹Р±СЂРѕСЃРѕРј РґС‹РјРѕРІС‹С… РіР°Р·РѕРІ, РѕРґРЅРѕСЃС‚РµРЅРЅС‹Рµ Рё РґРІСѓСЃС‚РµРЅРЅС‹Рµ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ СЃ СЂР°Р·РґРµР»СЊРЅС‹Рј Р·Р° P ± rѕsђRѕRѕRјP · · Рґsѓs . .. p °, p ° С ° ° °¶r¶r ° · p · p »Roos ‡ r‹ Рµ РРѓРѕРѕ € € p ° С … cm ѓr -rhles ‹S ‹rf ven‹ ven ‹ven vena ven …РѕРґРѕРІ.

rys ѓsmunk panels μreјp ° ° ° ° С ° »‹ Н … РєРѕР »r” r … r … r ‹‹P ѕP ѕS ‡ р Р Р Р Р Р Р Р Р‚ Р Р ‚НР Р Р Р Р Рр Р Р Р Р‚ Р Р Р Рр Р Р Р Р ‚НР Р Р НР‚ Р НР Р Р Р Р РР Р РР ‚Р Р Р О‚ · r. РѕРґРЅРѕРІСЂРµРјРµРЅРЅРѕРіРѕ Р·Р°Р±РѕСЂР° РІРѕР·РґСѓС…Р° РґР»СЏ РіРѕСЂРµРЅРёСЏ Рё РІС‹Р±СЂРѕСЃР° РґС‹РјРѕРІС‹С… РіР°Р·РѕРІ РІ РѕРґРЅРѕРј РєРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅРѕРј РєР°РЅР° R»Rµ. РЎРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РјРѕР¶РµС‚ СѓСЃС‚Р°РЅР°РІР»РёРІР°С‚СЊСЃСЏ РІ РјРЅРѕРіРѕСЌС‚Р°Р¶РЅС‹С… Р¶РёР»С‹С… РґРѕРјР°С… РІ СЃР»СѓС‡Р °Рµ РѕСЂРіР°РЅРёР·Р°С†РёРё РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРЅСЏ. РћСЃРЅРѕРІРЅС‹РјРё РїСЂРµРёРјСѓС‰РµСЃС‚РІР°РјРё РєРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅРѕР№ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ СЏРІР»СЏСЋС‚СЃСЏ РµРµ РЅРµРІС‹СЃРѕРєР°СЏ СЃС‚РѕРёРјРѕСЃС‚СЊ, СѓРґРѕР±СЃС‚РІРѕ Рё Р±С‹СЃС ‚СЂРѕС‚Р° РјРѕРЅС‚Р°Р¶Р°. Rџrѕrґcђp ± r ѕpµp ° р ° ° ° Рѕ РѕР # № sled … РѕРѕР »Рѕ ѕ ѕrіrterey Рїyrѕrir ° РђРѕРѕРѕ ѕ Сarchr ‡ ‡ ‡ ° ° С ‡ · · · · · · · · r · r · r · rhgr · rpgrr · rhgr · r srgr · r srgr. СЊРЅС‹Рµ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґС‹ PSP° РґР°РЅРЅРѕР№ СЃС‚СЂР°РЅРёС†Рµ.

РћСЃРЅРѕРІРЅС‹Рј РїСЂРµРёРјСѓС‰РµСЃС‚РІРѕРј СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ С€Р°С…С‚РЅС‹С… РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹С… РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ СЏРІР»СЏРµС‚СЃСЏ РіРѕС‚РѕРІРЅРѕСЃС‚ Cњ RAIRѕRґ С ‡ rys ѓS ѕP ѕS сsm ѕsm є єs ѓsђr ° r · С ¶rµ Рїyrѕr »Рµ јРѕ ° ° ° ° ° Сѓ °‹ ° С1 ° ° Сіrt ± ± ± ± СРѕsmans РїСЂРё РІС‹Р±РѕСЂРµ РІР°СЂРёР°РЅС‚Р° РїРѕРґРєР»СЋС‡РµРЅРёСЏ РєРѕС‚Р»РѕРІ – РєР°Рє СЃ РѕРґРЅРѕРІСЂРµРјРµРЅРЅС‹Рј Р·Р°Р±РѕСЂРѕРј РІРѕР·РґСѓС…Р° РґР»СЏ РіРѕСЂРµРЅРёСЏ Рё РІС‹Р±СЂРѕСЃР° РґС‹РјРѕРІС‹С… РіР°Р·РѕРІ РІ РѕРґРЅРѕРј РєР°РЅР°Р»Рµ, С‚Р°Рє Рё СЃ СЂР°Р·РґРµР»СЊРЅС‹Рј, СЃ СѓС‚РµРїР»РµРЅРЅС ‹Рј РєР°РЅР°Р»РѕРј Рё Р±РµР СѓС‚РµРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ. Ryres ѓ ° € ° € € ° С … s pan ‹С … Р єrѕh» r »РµРєsmarch‹ С … С ‹‹p.p … Рѕ РґРі јР¶Р¶Р¶Р‚ ‚rimes ° С1 ° С1 »CњPRѕP №, rhhrѕrѕrѕs pan С 13 РРѕРѕРѕРѕР№ РР» osor »rys rysѓrіs РРѕРѕРѕРѕРѕРѕРѕ Рѓ ѓras ѓ ѓ ѓras ѓras ѓ ѓrasmarn‹ ven ‹rf … rѕrґrѕrѕrіі. РџРѕРґСЂРѕР±РЅРµРµ Рѕ РґР°РЅРЅРѕР№ С‚РµС…РЅРѕР»РѕРіРёРё РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ С‡РёС‚Р°Р№С‚Рµ РІ СЂР°Р·РґРµР»Рµ С€Р°С… С‚РЅР°СЏ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ РЅР° РґР°РЅРЅРѕР№ СЃС‚СЂР°РЅРёС†Рµ.

	Р”РћРџРћР›РќР�РўР•Р›Р¬РќРђРЇ Р�РќР¤РћР РњРђР¦Р�РЇ:
	РљРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅС‹ Рµ РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹Рµ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґС‹
	СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РєРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅС‹С… РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹С… РґС‹РјРѕС …РѕРґРѕРІ СѓРЅРёРІРµСЂСЃР°Р»СЊРЅР°, Р±С‹СЃС‚СЂРѕ РјРѕРЅС‚РёСЂСѓРµС‚СЃСЏ, РґРѕР»РіРѕРІРµС‡РЅР°, РіР°Р·РѕРїР»РѕС‚РЅРѕСЃС‚РЅР° Рё РїСЂРµРґРЅР°Р·РЅР°С‡ РµРЅР° РґР»СЏ СЂР°Р±РѕС‚С‹ СЃРѕ РІСЃРµРјРё СЃРѕРІСЂРµРјРµРЅРЅС‹РјРё РєРѕС‚Р»Р°РјРё…
	РЁР°С…С‚РЅР°СЏ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹С… РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ
	РѕРїРёСЃР°РЅРёРµ С€Р°С …С‚РЅРѕР№ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹С… РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ РґР»СЏ РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ РјРЅРѕРіРѕСЌС‚Р°Р¶РЅРѕРіРѕ РґРѕРјР°, РѕСЃРЅРѕРІРЅС‹Рµ RASHHANMYRRYRYXASAS ‰ ‰ ently °s pan °, porѕs „rѕsђrr ° С ° † Рї ј јrѕrѕsmarn ° ° Ryrѕrer” Rör ° C ° С † † † † ostance . ..
	РўСЂРµС…СЃР»РѕР№РЅР°СЏ РєРѕР°РєСЃРёР°Р»СЊРЅР°СЏ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјР° РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ
	СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ С‚СЂРµС…СЃР»РѕР№РЅРѕР No. RARѕR ° ° R ° ° Р »СњРѕРѕР № С1 ± С‹ Сѓ river · r · · r † rtµr № rhyrѕr · pirѕp ‚river · p ± pm, ° С1r¶r ± p” rp “rplyt °Р·РѕРІР°РЅРёСЏ РєРѕРЅРґРµРЅСЃР°С‚Р°, РїСЂРёРјРµРЅСЏРµС‚СЃСЏ РІ СЃРµРІРµСЂРЅС‹С… СЂР°Р№РѕРЅР°С… СЃ РЅРёР·РєРёРјРё С‚РµРјРїРµСЂР°С‚СѓСЂРЅС‹РјРё РїРѕРєР°Р·Р°С‚ РµР»СЏРјРё…

РџСЂРё РїСЂРѕРµРєС‚РёСЂРѕРІР°РЅРёРё СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РєРѕР»Р»РµРєС‚РёРІРЅС‹С… РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ РЅРµРѕР±С…РѕРґРёРјРѕ СЃРѕР±Р»СЋРґР°С‚СЊ РІСЃРµ СЃС‚СЂРѕРёС‚РµР»СЊРЅС‹Рµ РЅРѕСЂРјС‹ РїРѕР¶Р°СЂРЅРѕР№ Р±РµR·РѕРїР°СЃРЅРѕСЃС‚Рё. РџСЂРё РјРѕРЅС‚Р°Р¶Рµ СЃРёСЃС‚РµРјС‹ РЅРµРѕР±С…РѕРґРёРјРѕ СЃРѕР±Р»СЋРґР°С‚СЊ РіРµСЂРјРµС‚РёС‡РЅРѕСЃС‚СЊ РїРѕРґРєР»СЋС‡РµРЅРёСЏ РїР°С‚СЂСѓР±РєР° РєРѕС‚Р» Р° Рє РІРЅРµС€РЅРµРјСѓ РІРѕР·РґСѓС€РЅРѕРјСѓ РєР°РЅР°Р»Сѓ РєРѕР°РєСЃРёR°Р»СЊРЅРѕРіРѕ РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґР°.

РљР°С‚Р°Р»РѕРі СЃРёСЃС‚РµРј РґС‹РјРѕС…РѕРґРѕРІ РґР»СЏ РїРѕРєРІР°СЂС‚РёСЂРЅРѕРіРѕ РѕС‚РѕРїР»РµРЅРёСЏ:

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Spartherm installation manual

1.

1. Proven quality

OUR FIREPLACES ARE TESTED AND CERTIFIED IN

ACCORDING TO DIN EN 13229

A = fireproof door that does not close itself

• can work in open mode

• multifunctional use of the chimney is not allowed

We also recommend devices of design A with a closed firebox. In such a fireplace, fuel combustion occurs more efficiently, and the safety of its operation also increases. If the door is open, then with the movement of air, that is, if there is a strong or uneven draft in the chimney, soot can get out, and the room can smell. For the following devices, it is important: the multifunctional use of the chimney and the open mode is not allowed, even in the case of design A with a mechanically closing door!

Speedy MR/MRh/M/Mh

Varia Sh

Varia C-45h

A1 = self-closing door

• closed operation

• multifunctional use possible

chimney

With design A1, the firebox must be closed (except when adding firewood) to prevent the formation of carbon monoxide.

These fireboxes are equipped with self-closing doors, so that the doors are only opened when the firebox is being serviced (eg cleaning the firebox or adding firewood). For such furnaces, multifunctional use of the chimney is possible. Modification of the closing mechanism in the A1 design is not permitted for technical and safety reasons and will void the warranty and the operating permit. Warranty and operating authorization are also withdrawn if the customer makes technical changes to other items

fireboxes. You must, together with the client or his specialist, select the desired design before ordering.

1.2. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. The stands are included with the unit in the shipping package.

2. Before unscrewing the bolt fixing the counterweights (precautions when transporting the firebox with a lift), carefully place the stand screwing device on its “back”.

3. If necessary, position the SVS fittings in the desired position using the included clamp.

4. The firebox must be perfectly level and horizontal!

5. Horizontal connection of the gas dome to the chimney is possible. To do this, open the clamp, install the gas dome and fix it again with the clamp.

2. BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR

INSTALLATION OF AN OPEN FIREPLACE

Before installing the insert, it is necessary to check whether the airflow control functions properly and, if necessary, to program the functions. The specialist must express his opinion regarding the suitability of the chimney and the adequacy of the air supply for combustion. The standards DIN 18160 and DIN 1889 must be observed6. DIN EN 13229 must be applied. A chimney is connected to each open fireplace. Multifunctional use is only permitted for enclosed devices (design A1). The design of the chimney is calculated according to DIN 4705 part 1, part 2 or EN 13384-1 with the values given in this manual. The convection hood supplied may not be suitable for a tiled fireplace. The installation of the firebox is carried out in accordance with industry standards for tiled fireplaces and ventilation systems (TROL instructions for the installation of tiled stoves – available from the central association, Heizung, Klima, Rathausallee 5, 53729St. Augustine).

3. INSTALLATION SITE AND COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY

3.1. BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR THE INSTALLATION SITE

OPEN FIREPLACES AND UNDESIRABLE PLACES

Open fireplaces may only be installed in rooms where there are no threats or dangers during the installation and operation of the fireplace. In particular, the room in which an open fireplace is installed must be supplied with sufficient combustion air.

The area of the room must be large enough, and the room spacious enough, so that the open fireplace can be used according to the rules.

3.2. THE OPERATION OF AN OPEN FIREPLACE WILL BE SAFE IF…

… a safety device is installed in the room to automatically and reliably prevent a pressure drop, or

… the volume of air required for the operation of an open fireplace and the air flow of the exhaust ventilation system are provided in the room where the fireplace is installed, and adjacent rooms, the pressure drop is not more than 0.04 m bar.

3.3. AN OPEN FIREPLACE SHOULD NOT BE INSTALLED…

… near stairs, except in houses with at least two floors

… in public walkways

… in garages

… in rooms where flammable or explosive materials and mixtures are present, as this leads to a fire and explosion hazard .

Open fireplaces must not be installed in rooms or apartments that have ventilation units or warm air heating systems operated by fans, unless the operation of an open fireplace is safe.

3.4. COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY

Open fireplaces may only be installed in rooms where there is at least one freely accessible door or window that can be opened, or adjoining rooms, or the same ventilation system as other rooms. When installed in apartments or houses, only rooms of the same apartment or house can be included in a single ventilation system.

Open fireplaces may only be installed in the above rooms if the volume of air supplied to the room where the open fireplace is installed must be at least 360 m3 per hour for each m2 of the firebox surface area. If there are other heaters in the room where the fireplace with an open firebox is installed, then the volume of air supplied to this room should be at least 540 m3 per m2 of the firebox area and additionally 1.6 m3 per hour for each kW of installed power of other heaters . In this case, an excess of air pressure between the internal and external space of 0.04 mbar must be ensured. This pressure difference must ensure the free flow of external air into the room at a speed of about 0.15 m per second. For air supply from the outside, the size of the supply channel is of fundamental importance. For example, the cross-sectional area of the air supply channel for a furnace with a mirror size of 510 mm (h) by 600 mm should be 175 cm2, which corresponds to an air duct diameter of 150 mm

Such a pipe connection must be taken to another room. (Please note that such a room must have a sufficient air supply – discuss this with a fireplace and ventilation installer and comply with FeuVo regulations and DIN 18896). If the combustion air supply pipe is taken out of the room, a shut-off mechanism must be provided. Therefore, attention should be paid to the installation of the shutdown mechanism. In this case, the inlet pipe must be insulated, as condensation may form. In addition, the pipe must be located so that water and other foreign matter do not get into it, and then condensation may not form.

NOTE:

Regulations governing an adequate supply of combustion air can be found, for example, in the fire safety ordinance (May 1998) and the implementing directive to the fire safety ordinance (January 1980). These documents are in the German Institute for Civil Engineering, No. 3/1980, 17. Year of issue, published (see also commentary on DIN 18895).

3.5. DUCT

In accordance with local building regulations as set out in § 37, paragraph 2, ducts supplying combustion air located in a house with more than 2 full floors and ducts overlapping walls of combustible materials must be located so that fire and smoke do not could penetrate other floors or rooms.

NOTE:

Please refer to the Fire Safety Directive and Ventilation Specification (Draft) of January 1984 for the fulfillment of the above requirements.

4.

CHIMNEY BLOCK

Spartherm open fireplaces can be equipped with a chimney blocking mechanism. The locking mechanism cannot prevent maintenance or cleaning of the fireplace and connecting elements, nor can it close itself. The locking mechanism must be visible from the outside, eg next to the control knob. The locking mechanism can only be installed in the flue gas collector, flue gas outlet or connection piece. Instead of a locking mechanism, a door with a throttling device can be installed on the firebox.

4.1. THROTTLE DEVICE

The choke device may only be installed in the flue gas outlet or connection piece. The throttling device should be easy to maintain. It must have holes or slots, with a total area of at least 3% of the cross-sectional area, at least 20 cm2. The throttle device must be visible when installing the control handle.

5. PROTECTION OF THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE FURNACE

5.1. FLOORS

If there is a floor made of combustible materials in the room next to the closed type firebox, it must be protected from fire with a non-combustible coating. The protective coating must be at least 50 cm in front of the firebox and 30 cm on the sides.

The floor made of combustible materials must be protected with a non-combustible coating, if the firebox can be opened, forward at a height equal to the bottom of the firebox or a metal stand for firewood in the fireplace plus 30 cm (but not less than 50 cm), on the side – equal to the bottom of the firebox or metal stand for firewood in the fireplace plus 20 cm (but not less than 30 cm). When grates are installed with a height of less than 10 cm, the protective coating must be 50 cm long and 30 cm to the sides.

The non-combustible protective coating can be made of ceramic (eg tiles), natural stone or other mineral materials (eg marble, granite) or metal with a thickness of min. 1 mm or glass with appropriate specifications. The protective cover must be fixed in such a way that it cannot be moved.

If a grate (not included) with a height of less than 10 cm is installed, it is sufficient to observe the specified minimum dimensions.

5.1.1. SPECIAL FIRE SAFETY MEASURES WHEN THERE IS A FLOORING NEAR THE FIREPLACE FIREPLACE

If there is carpet, parquet, etc. near the fireplace insert, it is necessary to install a fireproof protective coating made of non-combustible material (e.g. natural stone).

5.2. BEARING STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS FROM CONCRETE AND REINFORCED CONCRETE

Open-type fireplaces should be installed in such a way that there are no load-bearing structural elements made of concrete or reinforced concrete on the side of the warm air outlet within 50 cm and up to a height of 50 cm above the points of warm air outlet.

5.2.1 SPECIAL FIRE-FIGHTING PRECAUTIONS FOR ATTACHING STRUCTURAL PARTS

1. There must be a distance of min. 5 cm

2. The distance to structural elements occupying a small area (wall cladding, floor covering, ceiling covering) should be 1 cm.

3. There must be no combustible structural elements and furniture in front, above and to the side of the combustion chamber at a distance of at least 80 cm, unless otherwise specified in the installation manual for the individual device and in the operating manual.

4. If there is a radiant shield with ventilation on both sides, a distance of 40 cm is sufficient. In this case, the distance of the radiant shield with ventilation must be at least 2 cm.

5.3. WOODEN BEAMS

Wooden beams must not be placed in the radiant area of the fireplace insert. Wooden beams above an open fireplace should be at least 1 cm apart and well ventilated. Direct connection to the thermal bridge is not permitted.

5.4. INSULATION (SEE SECTION 6 + 7; SECTION 15)

Mineral fiber insulation materials are recommended based on regulatory guidelines and current regulations as described below. Other suitable insulating materials may be used. They must be approved by DIBt or have an operating permit.

5.4.1. HEAT INSULATION MATERIALS

The specifications for the thermal insulation materials of your fireplace insert can be found on page 17 in the TECHNICAL DATA section.

For the installation of insulating materials, boards, strips or layers of silicate insulating materials (stone, slag, ceramic fibres) of building material class A1 according to DIN 4102 part 1 are used, with a maximum temperature of at least 700 °C when tested according to DIN 52271 and with a nominal bulk density of 80 kg/m3. They must have the appropriate isolation code AGI-Q 132.

The code for the insulation material must not contain the digits “99”! If this insulating layer does not completely cover the walls, cladding or adjacent surfaces, then it should be fixed at a maximum distance of 33 cm from each other. Other insulation materials, such as foam concrete or mineral fibres, must comply with the general building standard of the German Institute for Building Technology in Berlin (DIBt). They should be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Different insulation materials have different thermal conductivity, so their thickness may vary. The required thickness of the insulating material is set based on the diagrams and instructions of the manufacturer of this material.

Some thermal insulation materials can be used for both cladding and thermal insulation. This significantly reduces the thickness of the coating. Thermal insulation materials made of slag and stone should be protected with a wear-resistant coating so that they do not wear out over time. Other thermal insulation panels are wear resistant. Insulating materials should be installed with offset joints and these joints should be sealed. When installing multiple layers, the joints must overlap.

5.4.2. FACING OF PROTECTED WALLS

– Protective wall cladding is required when installing an open fireplace. The cladding must protrude at least 20 cm above the connecting piece.

– Cladding may be waived if the walls of the room:

– at least 11.5cm thick

– made of non-combustible building materials

– do not contain concrete or reinforced concrete

– The cladding can be conventional, eg brick, or the thermal insulation panels mentioned above to reduce the overall thickness of the cladding and thermal insulation.

5.5. SPECIAL FIRE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR HARDWOOD FIREPLACES:

1. The shelf must be out of the heat radiation area.

2. Leave a ventilation space of 1 cm or install a dimensionally stable insulation board about 2 cm thick under the shelf.

3. The distance between the inner edge of the heating gas collector and the shelf must be at least 16.5 cm.

5.6. COMPENSATION GAP BETWEEN THE FIREPLACE LINING AND THE FIREPLACE

The distance between the flue hood and the wooden beam must be at least 165 mm. An expansion gap should be provided, which will be closed, for example, with sealing tape. Please note that there must be a distance of at least 6 mm between the door frame and the fireplace casing or mounting frame, so that the firebox door can be dismantled if necessary (for example, to replace the glass).

5.7. FIREPLACE CASING

The fireplace casing must not directly touch the firebox. It must be installed separately. More detailed information. in the Cladding section.

5.8. CONNECTION TO THE CHIMNEY

The coupling for the connection to the chimney is located on the gas outlet of the firebox. The connection to the chimney must be as tight as possible and may be either vertical or horizontal. Chimney connections must be fixed to the wall lining or in accordance with the chimney manufacturer’s instructions. Connections to the chimney must be made of fireclay moldings for domestic chimneys or tin pipes made of sheet steel with a minimum thickness of 2mm according to DIN 1623, DIN 1298, DIN EN 1856 and related fittings.

Chimneys inside open fireplace mantle must be at least 3cm thick, non-deformable, of non-combustible materials class A1 in accordance with DIN 4102 part 1, with a maximum temperature of at least 750°C when tested in accordance with DIN 52271 and with binder not more than 1.2% in the lining. Instead of a 3 cm chimney, a 6 cm chimney should be used if the lining of the combustion products collector is made of metal.

This does not apply if the chimney connection is intended for convection space heating.

NOTE:

Chimney connection requirements according to DIN 18160 part 2.

5.9. HEAT TRANSFER

Since there are various options for the construction of a fireplace with our firebox, the development of the exact design of the fireplace must be carried out by a specialist. Sufficient heat dissipation must be ensured. This can be realized by installing convection ducts in the cladding or heated cladding.

5.9.1. MOVEMENT OF WARM AIR

When installing a fireplace designed for heat dissipation by convection (heating with hot air, open fireplace), the following must be observed (see manual, point 5.8):

– The cross section of the air inlet and outlet must be at least 800 cm2.

– Minimum 200 cm2 at the inlet and 200 cm2 at the outlet must not be blocked.

– When using convection currents, all four connections must be installed.

– Air ducts must be made of non-flammable, shape-retaining materials.

– In the area of 30 cm next to the warm air outlet and 30 cm above it, structural elements and objects made of combustible materials (eg wood), as well as built-in furniture, must not be placed.

5.9.2. CLOSED FIREPLACES

When installing a fireplace designed for heating through the outer casing (stove, underground stove, fireplace with convection duct that can be closed) and heat dissipation through the casing, please note the following:

• The design of the fireplace must be designed and implemented in accordance with the industry regulations of KL Handwerk (new: TR OL 2006).

• We recommend the use of modern materials (eg Magnetherm) in order to make optimal use of the heat and avoid the risk of overheating even at the highest temperatures.

• The volume of the combustion chamber is calculated from the heat output and the heating requirement.

• The cladding must be chosen so that there is a margin of safety.

• The builder must indicate to the client, if possible in writing, the design features. Wooden firewood must correspond to the heat transfer of the surface or the volume of the firebox (no more than 2-3 batches per day in total).

• It is recommended to additionally protect combustible materials with thermal insulation with active rear ventilation.

• The insulation specifications on page 11 are for warm air only. In the case of a closed fireplace, the insulation characteristics must be calculated in accordance with TR OL.

• If upward sliding doors are installed, the temperature of the guide rollers must not exceed 270°C. If necessary, isolate the area of the heating element with movable mechanical elements.

• When assembling parts, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, in particular the permissible temperature range, ambient temperature, etc.

This applies to the following models (Linear and Prestige):

Mini: R1V/R1Vh, Z1, Z1 mit NSHF, 2L/2R/2LRh, Z1 h3O/Z1h h3O, Z1 h3O XL/Z1h h3O XL, S/Sh, S-FDh.

Speedy: 1V/1Vh, 1V/1Vh mit NSHF, M/Mh, K/Kh, K/Kh mit NSHF, Eh, Eh mit NSHF, MR/MRh, MR/MRh mit NSHF, R/Rh, R/ Rh mit NSHF, Ph, MDRh, RDRh.

Varia: 1V/1Vh, 1V h3O/1Vh h3O, 1V h3O XL/1Vh h3O XL, 1V h3O XXL/1Vh h3O XXL, 2L/2R/2Lh/2Rh, 2Lh h3O/2Rh, h3O, 2L-100h/2R -100h, 2LRh/2RRh, Ch, FD/FDh, Ah, A-FDh, Sh/SRh (GT), Eh, BEh, Bh, B-FDh, B-120h, M-60h, M-80h, M- 100h.

Arte: 1Vh, Bh, BRh, Xh, X-FDh, 3RL-60h, 3RL-80h, 3RL-100h, U-50h, U-70h, U-90h, Wh

6.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATION

For floors, coverings and wall coverings made of non-combustible building materials. Important note: The firebox must not be installed on a floating screed, only on a screed.

7. SPECIAL FIRE FIGHTING PRECAUTIONS

Where combustible materials are present in flooring (wood), coverings and/or walls

8. CLEANING THE OPEN FIREPLACE

Open fireplaces should be purchased and installed so that the air ducts in the room can be easily cleaned; the pipe was not obstructed.

9. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR SPARTHERM

FIREPLACES

9.1. FUESE GAS EXHAUST

The flue gas outlet can be turned. It can be connected to the chimney both vertically and horizontally. A 90° exhaust dome for side connection and a 0° dome for direct connection are included in the delivery.