Can you get damp on internal walls: Can you get rising damp on internal walls?

Can you get rising damp on internal walls?

/ Rising Damp / By Carl

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Rising damp is a common form of damp in UK homes. It is the result of moisture from the ground traveling up through your masonry and entering your property.

This usually happens because of issues with your damp proof course (DPC). Although it can also happen in cavity walls where rubble and debris block the cavity above the DPC. This allows moisture to bridge across into your home completely bypassing the damp proof course.

Rising damp on internal walls is far less common. You are more likely to have this issue with external walls. This can cause damage to the internal side of an external wall (inside your property). But more often than not, rising damp will occur on a wall where one side is outside facing.

The only time an internal wall is at risk of rising damp, is if it is a load bearing wall and runs right down to the foundation. If this is the case, then there is potential for water to wick up into the property.

Why internal partition walls don’t get rising damp

Most walls inside your property will be internal partition walls. These are walls that determine the layout of your property and divide individual rooms.

This type of wall will usually be non-load bearing, they are just there to create the internal layout of the property.

Because of this, they have no contact with the ground below your property and cannot suffer with rising damp.

Partition walls can be made of a variety of materials. Some of the more common in UK homes are bricks, timber stud work, and sometimes metal stud work.

Stud walls made from wood, are the most common in modern properties. This is because they are easier and faster to construct. They are also usually cheaper to install. This is from both a materials and labour perspective, when compared with brick.

If a wall is load bearing it will often be made with blocks. So, if you live in a relatively modern home, it should be quite easy to determine if a wall is load bearing or a stud partition.

In older homes brick partitions can be more common, this will mean it may be less obvious.

Other ways to identify load bearing walls

A couple of things to look for when trying to identify load bearing walls are:

Walls that span multiple floors. If a wall on the bottom floor, has another wall directly above it, then it is almost definitely load bearing.
Large walls in the centre of your home or near chimney breasts. These are often spreading load from upper floors and the roof.
Look for walls that appear larger or thicker than other internal partition walls.
Do you have crawl space? If you can access the area below your ground floor you will be able to see walls that travel all the way to your foundations.
Does your home have a cellar or basement? Again, if walls down there have walls above, they are probably load bearing. They are also below the DPC, so if you haven’t tanked your cellar it could be damp and allowing moisture to rise.

In all modern homes, according to building regulations, any internal wall that is built on load bearing foundations, will be equipped with a DPC, at approximately 150mm above ground level.

Installing a DPC has been mandatory in London since around 1875. This was rolled out to the rest of the country shortly after.

Therefore, if your property was built after this time, it will almost certainly have had a DPC. For property built before this, they may never have had one in the first place

If rising damp is present, then it is highly likely that your damp proof course has failed (or never existed) and will need replacing. One of the most common ways to do this is via damp proof injection creams.

Fixing rising damp on internal load bearing walls

If you have confirmed an internal wall is in contact with the foundations, and the wall is suffering from rising damp, then you have two options

You can try to fix the problem yourself with a DIY damp course injection kit.
Or you can hire a professional.

The main thing to consider, is the extent of the job. The wall will need plaster removing, this will usually be up to around 1 meter in height. It will also involve the removal of skirting boards.

In the worst-case scenario, there may be issues with other timber, such as floorboards, or even floor joists.

The goal at this point, is to remove any building materials that are holding moisture. Then once the new DPC is injected, this will all need replacing and making good.

If you are a confident and competent DIY expert, or if you have some building knowledge then you may be able to do the work yourself.

If not, it is probably best to hire a professional damp proofing company. The best thing about hiring a professional, is the job will be done correctly and will usually come with a guarantee.

Ideally, you should get multiple quotes to ensure you get the best possible price.

A good way to do this is via a comparison site that rates and reviews local damp proofing companies. The advantage of this, is you can find reliable damp companies with good customer reviews, at very reasonable prices.

To see our favourite damp proofing comparison site, and get up to 5 local quotes Click Here

What if it’s not rising damp?

If the damp problem is on an internal partition wall, then there can only be a few causes:

Condensation – this is the most common form of damp and mould in UK homes. It is slightly less common on internal walls. This is because they are usually warmer than the external walls in the same property.
Moisture in the air will usually be attracted to, and condense on, the coldest surfaces. However, it can still happen, particularly behind furniture where air circulation is poor.
A leak of some kind – This could be due to leaking pipes, radiators, utilities etc. Look around for anywhere that water or moisture could potentially be coming from.

If you have exhausted all avenues and still can’t find the cause, then it is time to call in a professional.

Click here to get in touch with up to 5 local damp proofing experts

Conclusion

Rising damp on internal walls is less common, but it is possible. It can only affect specific walls inside your home, so you will need to do some investigation.

Hopefully, the tips in this article will help you to get to the bottom of the problem.

How to Stop Damp and Damp Patches on Your Internal Walls

The different causes of condensation and damp patches on internal walls and how to stop damp forming on your walls once and for all.
Find out what causes damp patches including issues such as cracked mortar, roof tiles, damaged guttering or lead flashing and find out how to fix them once and for all.

In this project we’ll go through the various different causes of damp patches and condensation on your internal walls, as well as explaining how to definitively stop damp entering your walls in the first place.

Damp patches on internal walls of your home can be a real pain, not only due to the fact you get ugly looking marks but also the fact that they can produce mould. This can in turn be detrimental to your health, as mould spores have been linked to quite a few issues such as asthma and allergies – so it’s not just your home that will suffer in terms of damage.

It’s also a good point to note that if you do have damp on your internal walls then the fact that it is there will make a room feel colder and more uncomfortable to be in. Damp walls lose heat three times faster than dry walls.

The reason for you getting damp on your inside walls can be various and in most situations the cause of the internal damp will either come from the top of the house (roof area) or from the bottom (ground area), however there are occasions when the damp can come from the walls themselves.

We will now go through the most common causes of damp appearing on internal walls and also cover some methods for stopping the damp from entering your walls.

Assess Whether Your Damp Wall Area is Actually Damp

The first task you will have to carry out is to assess the affected wall area to establish how damp it actually is – this can be done two ways:

Back of Hand – Although not the most accurate way to measure damp on your walls it will give you a good idea of how bad the damp actually is. Touch the back of your hand against the damp area and gauge the level of dampness. Now touch the back of your hand against a dry area on the wall and compare the two. This will give you an idea as to how bad the damp on your wall actually is
Damp Meter – These are handy little gadgets that feature two prongs on the base and a level indicator on the front. Stick the two prongs into your damp wall surface and leave for a while. The level indicator on the front will then display the percentage of damp within the wall’s surface.

Another handy instrument is a Relative Humidity Hygrometer. Position it in a room and the reading on the front will give you the moisture content level inside the room space.

This is quite useful in situations when you are experiencing heavy condensation on your walls and will allow you to get an initial reading and then monitor the drop in moisture as you implement fixes to resolve any damp issues.

If you do detect damp, don’t rush to treat it without finding the cause first, as this greatly affects what you need to do to treat your damp effectively and what tools and materials you’ll need to buy.

How To Find the Cause of Your Internal Damp and How To Fix it

What Causes Penetrating Damp?

Cracks in walls and Mortar or Render

Whether this is the cause of your internal damp issue or not, this is still a problem!! If you have cracked mortar in your walls or chimney stack then water and moisture has the potential to enter your property and cause untold damp and rot damage.

Mortar joints missing from a brick wall can allow water to get in and make internal walls damp

If it is allowed to sit on timber such as roof timbers, floor joists etc. then these can rot out and cost a small fortune to put right.

Check all of your outside walls using a decent pair of binoculars for the higher areas (these can be hired if necessary) for cracks in the mortar joints of your brickwork, chimney pots and chimney stack.

If you do find any cracks or faults in your mortar then they will need repairing. Rake out the joints using a plugging chisel or small bolster to a depth of around 10 – 15mm.

Using a suitable mortar mix (information for this can be found in our Mortar Mixes project) re-point the damaged mortar joints with new mortar.

In the case of broken/cracked mortar around chimney stacks and pots this will also need to be replaced.

Carefully chisel off the damaged areas and replace with the aforementioned mortar mix, using the Mortar Mixes project above for more information.

If you have cracks in your render then this can be a little trickier. In the case of large cracks these will need plugging asap!!

If moisture is allowed to sit behind a rendered surface then it will gradually erode the inner surface away and create further cracks and eventually render will start falling off, creating a larger and more expensive repair job.

Cracks in your render can allow water to enter your walls, creating damp patches

In the majority of cases render repair can be quite a time consuming job so for an interim fix you can seal over the crack with a silicone based sealer.

This is also the case for larger cracks where you can seal the crack void and surrounding area with a silicone sealer.

Once you have some time to correctly repair the crack you can simply remove the silicone filler and proceed with the repair.

In respect to the correct repair method, any cracks should be filled with a render mix of the same grade and consistency as the current render on the wall.

Premixed render or render patching compound can be purchased for this job. Products include K-Rend and Euromix. We have never used these products so cannot confirm how competent they are).

Fill any cracks with your mortar or pre-mixed mortar and allow to dry for the required time. To ensure that no moisture is allowed to penetrate your repaired area it’s also worth considering covering the area with a sealer or waterproofing agent.

If you have coloured render then this is another element that needs to be considered. You will have to try and create a matching colour to patch any cracks.

As you can imagine this can be really tricky so be prepared for the fact that the repaired area is going to stand out.

One possible solution for this is to then paint your property using a suitable exterior render paint or cement based paint. Use our project on matching mortar to get the correct colour

Roof Tiles and Flashing

As with the above, broken or ineffective flashing (the lead sheeting that covers the joint between your roof and wall and chimney stack and roof) can cause water ingress which results in damp patches on your internal walls.

Using a decent pair of binoculars (either borrow or hire) or even better if you know someone with a drone and video camera, check all the flashings around your roof and chimney stack for cracks and separation from the adjoining surface.

In the case that you find any flashing faults then this will need to be repaired.

Ideally any cracked flashings need to be replaced with new flashings. Lead is very expensive and this can be a pricy job, but ultimately flashing replacement is the best course of action.

Check lead flashing for and splits and cracks allowing water to penetrate

If you don’t have the funds to do a replacement right away then there are alternatives available. Flashing Tape is a fairly good short-term fix for sealing cracks. It’s effectively a waterproof tape with an adhesive underside that you can stick over the crack, sealing it over.

We have used a few of these in the past and found Sylglas to be one of the better ones. See our project on lead flashing for more information on this.

In the case of cracked and broken tiles these will also need to be replaced as any cracks present can allow water to penetrate into your roof area, run down rafters and down into cavities and cause all manner of damp problems on internal walls.

Changing your broken roof tiles immediately can ensure that water doesn’t enter your property

The type of tile (clay, slate, concrete etc.) will dictate how this is done. In most cases the tile will be nailed to the roofing battens below and, sometimes on old properties, fixed in place with mortar.

If this is the case you will need to break the nail off using a suitable slate ripper or hacksaw blade to cut the nail off or chip off the mortar with a suitable hammer and chisel. With the nail(s) removed slide the tile out and replace with a new tile.

Once replaced fix the tile in place, or in the case of slates, instead of nailing back in (as you will be unable to access suitable nailing points) cut a suitable length lead strip (about an inch longer than the length of the tile when positioned in place) and nail to the roofing timber.

Lead strip or galvanised metal is better to ensure that it does not rust.

Push the tile up into place and ensure that it is sitting flush with the surrounding tiles.

Now bend the protruding edge of the piece of metal back over the top of the tile so that it now holds the tile in place.Take a look at our project on roof tiling to understand more about how a roof works.

Guttering

The purpose of your guttering is to ensure that any excess water that runs off of your roof is channeled away from the walls or your property and allowed to drain in a suitable area.

If the guttering becomes ineffective water can then run down the outside walls of your home and if this is allowed to consistently happen then eventually the walls themselves will suck the water in by capillary action causing damp patches on your internal walls.

Using a pair of decent binoculars check all of your guttering for defects – cracks, splits, leaking joints, holes in down pipes, broken brackets etc. If you find any of these then get them fixed as soon as possible.

Blocked guttering can cause water to overflow and make your walls and roof damp

Any of the aforementioned issues are quite easy to fix but will in most cases involve working at heights so get a professional in if you are not comfortable doing so. See our project on installing plastic gutters to see how your guttering should work.

Service Fixings

Most objects that are fixed to the internal walls of your property are done so using screws, bolts and other such items.

In some cases these fixings protrude through the inner walls and into the cavity void.

If there is any damp present within the cavity area (leaks from above, cracks in mortar etc.) then this water and moisture has a direct route into your wall if it is allowed to settle on the part of the fixing that is present in the cavity.

This moisture and water can then cause damp to appear on your internal walls. You can get guidance on fixing to masonry on this project page.

Be careful to drill the correct length hole when fixing to external walls

To resolve these issues remove any fixings that enter the cavity area and seal any holes left with a suitable waterproof filler e.g. mortar with waterproofing agent, silicone etc.

This should then prevent any further damp issues appearing on your internal walls. You can find out how to apply silicone sealant here.

In the event that you cannot remove the objects then make sure that the area around the object is sealed tight. Use a flexible filler to do so such as silicone as rigid fillers can crack with the movement of your home and changing temperature.

You can use a silicone gun to waterproof around window and door frames

What Causes Rising Damp?

This can be a tricky problem to both diagnose and cure. Many people and some experts diagnose damp issues as rising damp when they are in fact nothing to do with it at all.

In essence, rising damp is damp that rises up through the ground into the brickwork or stonework of a wall through capillary action (the act of the water molecules sticking to the walls surface and surface tension holding the molecules together and helping them move up the wall inside the pores of the bricks).

To stop rising damp being an issue some houses have Damp Proof Courses (DPC’s), which is a waterproof barrier inserted into a house’s brickwork all around the property at about 6 inches from the ground.

It is believed by some experts that rising damp does not exist at all as technically walls constructed with engineering bricks should be impervious to capillary action due to the density of the brick material itself.

It is also argued that many Victorian properties were constructed with no damp proof courses for the reason that rising damp did not exist.

However many of the construction materials used at that time such as lime mortar, lime plaster etc. are very breathable in nature and any moisture that happened to rise up from the ground would then be allowed to naturally evaporate through the breathable surfaces.

In light of this some houses from this era were constructed with a slate damp proof course.

With modern techniques, houses and buildings are constructed using materials that should be impervious to water and moisture e.g. bricks fired at a high temperature, Portland cement, Gypsum plaster, plastic damp proof course and concrete slab membrane etc.

In the case that moisture does penetrate through a defective damp proof course, as it works its way up the wall there is very little scope for it naturally evaporate due to the moisture resistant qualities of the materials involved. It is thought that at this point rising damp can occur.

Engineering bricks can be used to build a damp proof course

In the event that your current damp proof course has failed or has been breached (via an attached structure stretching across the DPC and providing the damp an alternative pathway around the DPC) a good option for repair is inserting another damp proof course.

This may sound like a huge amount of work but today there are products available that allow you to inject a chemical mixture into your internal and exterior wall. This may sound like a fairly intensive job and you would be right but it can be done easily at a DIY level by anyone with a little savvy.

The basic principle in terms of DPC injection is that you drill holes in the external wall at the level you want the new DPC to appear at (6 inches above ground level) and then you inject the chemical cream DPC in using a suitable application gun (e.g. a skeleton gun).

The holes themselves should be around 12mm in diameter and around 20mm deep at centres of 125mm (this may vary depending on the manufacturer of the DPC cream. more information on chemical DPC injection is available here.

Once the external walls are treated you then have to treat the internal walls using the same process.

In terms of the holes you have now drilled in your walls, with external holes these need to be left for as long as you can, at least 2 weeks to ensure correct drying.

For internal walls these also need to be left for a minimum of 2 weeks (preferably longer).

Once you have ensured that the liquid filled holes that make up the DPC are dry you can then fill the surface of the holes you have drilled.

Use a suitable mortar mix with a water proofer added and ensure that you push the mixture well into the holes to ensure they are properly filled.

The chemical DPC itself is just a waterproof chemical similar to the likes of silicone or other waterproofing chemicals.

When it is pumped into the hole you have drilled, the bricks absorb the substance (as they are porous) and this essentially makes them waterproof. The chemical bonds to itself within the brick to form a waterproof layer.

In most cases the chemical DPC comes in tubes similar to those used for silicone or decorators caulk. You can also get chemical DPC injection machines. These are similar to pumps that then pump the chemical agent into the wall. The applicator guns are a little easier to use if you are not experienced in using the injection machines.

In respect to chemical damp proof courses there are quite a few on the market and as with most products, some are better than others. Examples of products available include Permaguard, Twistfix etc.

Cold Spots Giving Rise to Condensation and Salts

These issues are arguably one of the most common causes of damp on walls. Condensation forms when warm moist air within a room touches a cold internal wall or surface.

It then cools rapidly and then condenses back into water. This condensation then sits on the internal wall’s surface and creates damp patches on the wall.

Now that we know how the condensation forms we have to find what is causing the cold spots that are causing the condensation to appear. This can be caused by several defects.

Firstly, are there any cracks in the mortar on the external wall around the area where the damp is appearing?

This could be letting draughts into the cavity and cooling the associated area on the internal wall, stopping it from warming up with the rest of the room.

If there are cracks in any mortar then this will need repairing using the methods outlined above.

Is the condensation appearing on a chimney breast? If so then this example of condensation could be caused by a poorly ventilated chimney breast.

If you have bricked up fireplaces or a capped chimney stack then this may be preventing any cold air that is trapped in the chimney void from escaping and thus keeping the area at a consistently cooler temperature than the surrounding air.

In this case, again, moisture can then condense on the chimney breast surface and cause damp on your wall.

In this case, the ventilation provided by the open fireplaces and the act of fires drawing air up the chimney stack is no longer present and air can become static so we will have to introduce some new ventilation in order to get the air flowing again and the air warmed up.

Air bricks can be inserted on the ground level around 300mm above floor level and also towards the top of the chimney breast on the external wall.

This will then introduce an air flow and prevent static cold air sitting within the void and keeping the chimney area cold.

Keep chimney pots vented and allow air to circulate to prevent damp by using chimney cowls

The wall around your chimney can also be prone to suffering from Hygroscopic Chimney Salts. Salts and minerals released from fuels burnt on a fire can settle on the inside of the chimney breast and over time seep into and through a wall onto the internal wall surface.

Tars and deposits that are also present on the inside of a chimney breast can also be drawn through along with the salts.

The salts themselves appear as a white salt-like build up while stains from tars and deposits appear as a yellow/brown stain.

You may be thinking the salts are damp and make the affected area damp when they are present, this is not the case.

The salts themselves are hygroscopic in nature which means that they attract moisture from the internal air. This moisture then settles and creates damp on the internal walls.

In terms of a fix, the likelihood that any plastered surfaces have survived this are pretty slim.

If it can be caught in the very early stages and dried out then there is the chance that you can simply treat the area with a salt neutraliser.

Once treated it must them be allow to dry and then you can redecorate but in all honesty the correct fix would be to remove all of the plaster from the damaged areas right back to the walls surface and then to treat the wall itself with salt neutraliser to prevent any further salt ingress.

You can then replaster and redecorate with confidence knowing that future damage has been prevented.

You can apply salt neutraliser to your walls to stop salts penetrating the internal surface of your wall

The salt neutraliser is a substance that removes the salts and then prevents any further salt formation.

There should be quite a few different salt neutralisers available online or in your local DIY store.

In some instances salt deposits can be very heavy and to provide even more protection and further minimise the chances of salts forming and causing damp to appear on your internal walls you may want to add a membrane to your wall before replastering.

After you have treated the walls surface with salt neutraliser you can then fix a membrane over the area.

The membranes themselves usually come on a roll (similar to wallpaper) and feature a dimpled surface. See our project here on lining damp walls for more information.

Fit a mesh membrane before replastering to prevent salts returning and causing damp on your internal walls

Diagnosing the cause of damp patches can be an absolute nightmare as there are so many potential causes, but once you have found the cause and fixed it you can be sure that they won’t come back.

All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards, founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology.

Reinforcement of the plaster layer with welded mesh, TsPVS. galvanizing methods. Wall mount.

Different surfaces are trimmed with a plaster layer: facade, interior, uneven, stone or wooden. Its composition is made cement-sand or lime. In any case, the plaster finish is reinforced with metal mesh , which increases the strength of the finish and gives it elasticity. Therefore, with small seismic effects, subsidence of the soil, the plaster will retain its structure intact.

In addition, the metal mesh will prevent the appearance of cracks that may appear due to sudden changes in temperature, moisture ingress. This is essential, since cracks in the plaster will lead to the destruction of the finish. If you reinforce the layer, you get a strong and even finish layer.

What grids reinforce the plaster layer

For a thick finishing layer, with which significant irregularities on the wall are leveled, the differences in the masonry take welded wire mesh . It is welded from individual wires at an angle of 90 degrees by contact-spot welding. Welding takes place on an automatic machine, and the finished fabric is rolled up. Grids are welded from wires of different diameters from 0.8 mm to 2.5 mm. Cells are made small, 10, 12.5 mm, medium 25 mm, large 50 mm. Making cells larger than 50 mm is not rational for the elasticity of the plaster layer, since the reinforcement density will be insufficient in places.

The larger the diameter of the wire and the smaller the cells, the stronger the mesh fabric is obtained. Its price will be higher, as the consumption of metal increases.

What will be the diameter of the wire and the size of the cells for the plaster are affected by the conditions:

what material the wall is made of, the condition of its surface;
connection of the old and new walls;
what is the required thickness of the finish;
weight of the finish lining;

Zinc coated

Rolled nets are produced without coating and with zinc coating. Rolls of galvanized mesh fabric are mounted where the plaster can get wet or be in humid conditions. These are the facades of houses, the inner walls of basements, saunas, bathrooms, kitchens. Uncoated metal wire will rust when the wall gets wet and brown spots may appear on its surface.

Galvanizing is carried out in two ways and the thickness of the protective coating depends on this.

The galvanic method gives a smooth shiny coating up to 40 microns thick. The finished roll, connected to voltage, is immersed in an electrolyte solution, these are cyanides, zincates. When the current is turned on, zinc (anode) begins to deposit on the metal surface (cathode). The coating on the wires is thin, but at the same time, the welded intersections are completely covered with zinc. Such rolled mesh is taken for finishing surfaces with low moisture saturation.

Hot dip galvanizing gives a coating with a thickness of 40 to 90 microns. If zinc is hot applied after the wire has been welded onto the finished coil, then a layer of zinc will cover the welds. Such reinforcing meshes are installed on surfaces where saturation with moisture is expected.

Also, individual wires are coated with hot galvanizing, from which meshes are then welded. When welding at the intersections, the zinc will burn out. These places will be the first to corrode, although there will be a thick coating on the wires up to 90 µm.

What will reveal the heat engineering calculation of walls

Ferrous wire will corrode internally without being exposed to water openly. Corrosion of the grid in the plaster can occur when the thermal calculation of the layers of the building envelope is incorrect. Building materials in the wall are planned so that the vapor permeability of each of them increases outwards. If you do not follow this rule, then the steam that will come out of the heated interior spaces will not come out. It will condense on the lower vapor permeability layer inside the wall, saturate it with moisture and lead to corrosion of metal meshes.

In addition, they will corrode, collapse, losing strength if they fall into the freezing zone.

The correct thermal calculation of the walls will show what materials need to be installed in a given climatic region so that the dew point and the freezing area do not get inside the structure and do not damage the reinforcement.

All-metal expanded metal mesh is mounted for fine plaster finishing. TsPVS is produced from a thin metal sheet of 0.5 mm, for reinforcing finishes from different mixtures. Although TsPVS is thin, it is very strong and light, since it is not made from individual wires, but from a single metal sheet.

The cells are cut in the form of a trapezoid or rhombus, 15×5, 40×15, 25×10 mm in size. TsPVS is rolled into rolls of 5-10 meters.

The cellular fabric comes out flexible, it can repeat any shape of the surface that will be plastered. At the same time, its light weight does not weigh down the finish.

TsPVS is produced without zinc coating and galvanized.

Fixing reinforcement mesh to the surface

Any type of reinforcing reinforcement must be attached to the wall. Why?

Installation of reinforcing mesh gives:

Impacts on the plaster finish (bending, seismic) through fasteners will be transferred to the wall.
The plaster layer has a lot of weight. It can be transferred to the wall through fasteners so that the finishing layer does not experience stress.
Without fastening, under adverse conditions, the finish may move away from the surface.

Welded meshes and TsPVS are attached to wooden surfaces with brackets. Attach to concrete surfaces with dowels, mounting tape or a wide washer. Instead of a mounting tape, you can use a knitting wire. At one end it is screwed to the head of the self-tapping screw, and then it is screwed into the dowel until it stops. The other end of the knitting wire is attached to the cell.

If the reinforcement is installed on a brick or wooden surface, 70 mm nails are taken for its fastening. The nail is driven into a tree or into a masonry joint. The end of the nail with a hat is bent, pressing the wire reinforcement.

Before installing the reinforcement, the roll must be unrolled and aligned. Cut the roll into measured pieces with metal scissors. Connections of different pieces are made with an overlap of one cell. The overlap is needed to maintain the elasticity of the whole layer.

Rolled nets or TsPVS are attached to the surface after 50-60 cm, starting from the top.

In order for the reinforcement of the plaster layer to fulfill its purpose, it must be placed inside it. Then the reinforcement will bind the entire layer, make it stronger, give it elasticity so that it does not crack or peel off from the surface.

Frequently asked questions about ETIZ® steam glass (FAQ)

How effective is ETIZ® steam glass?

The effectiveness of thermal insulation is characterized by the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The thickness of the material is calculated from its value. The thermal conductivity coefficients of ETIZ® are among the best in their class (0.045–0.050 W/m K). In terms of its thermal insulation properties, ETIZ® slab 20 cm thick is comparable to brickwork 89 cm thick.cm, which means it reliably keeps warm in winter and cool in summer.

Why Paroglass? What is this term? How is it different from foam glass?

Steam glass is a new generation of thermal insulation. ETIZ® steam glass is a solid porous material based on liquid glass, a foaming agent and a curing catalyst, obtained by mechanical foaming in a mixer, followed by pouring into molds in which curing occurs.

Unlike ordinary foam glass, obtained by sintering a mixture of cullet at high temperatures, ETIZ® steam glass is a product of silicate glass foaming. Foaming of “liquid glass” occurs with the participation of a foaming agent solution. Post curing occurs at relatively low temperatures, around 27-40° C., as a result of the removal of water and an increase in the viscosity of the solution.

Does ETIZ® smell?

No, it doesn’t smell. The material is made from 100% silicate liquid glass and is non-toxic.

How refractory is your material?

Our material is completely non-combustible (NG group). Withstands open fire without changes in geometry and volume and melts only at a temperature of 1350 ° C. Due to such fire resistance, the material can locally preserve the fire in case of a fire inside the room, which means saving nearby buildings from fire, especially if the house is wooden. We are aware of such precedents

Can you guarantee the long-term quality of steam glass?

All characteristics of ETIZ® steam glass are confirmed by appropriate tests. In addition to other parameters, the material also has high frost resistance: that is, the number of life cycles without the formation of cracks and swelling, according to studies, is at least 80 years. And that means it will serve not only your heirs, but also the heirs of your heirs.

If the material gets wet and freezes, will it collapse, will it tear?

No, the material will not break. Due to the open-pore structure, water has room to expand when it freezes, so this affects the material without consequences. After thawing water, the material dries in natural conditions within 14 days without loss of physical properties.

Is the density of the material important for thermal insulation?

The density of thermal insulation materials affects their mechanical properties. For most building materials, there is such a relationship: the greater the density of the material, the higher its thermal conductivity, i.e., the worse it retains heat. The ETIZ® material does not have such a clear dependence: the thermal conductivity of the material with a density of 120 and 180 kg/m³ differs by only 0.005 W/m °C. At the same time, the coefficient of thermal conductivity in the dry state of ETIZ® is only 0.045 W/m °C at a density of 120 kg/m³.

How safe is ETIZ® thermal insulation? Can ETIZ® be used indoors (in walls, floors)?

Absolutely safe. ETIZ® steam glass has received sanitary and epidemiological certificates, according to which ETIZ® can be used outside and inside both residential and public buildings (including kindergartens and schools) and industrial buildings (including food industry enterprises). ETIZ® has been certified and complies with all sanitary standards in force in Russia. The material can be used both outside and inside, including bedrooms and children’s rooms, since it does not contain any environmentally harmful additives, but only exclusively natural materials.

What is the difference between Paroglass ETIZ® and expanded polystyrene?

ETIZ® steam glass is made on the basis of silicate liquid glass, as a result of which it does not burn, and, what is especially important, does not emit harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures. Styrofoam is an organic material that emits a number of toxic gases when burned. Unlike foam plastics, “ETIZ®” is vapor-permeable. By using vapor-proof material in your home, you “lock” the air, which negatively affects the indoor climate. Moisture does not have the ability to “leave” the room, which creates a favorable environment for the development of fungus and mold. In addition, the durability of mineral materials is always several times higher than organic ones. This is due to the oxidation of organic materials and the destruction of their structure: the oxidation process is sharply intensified with an increase in the area of contact between oxygen and organic matter. This happens just in the case of using foamed polymers.

What about mineral wool?

ETIZ® steam glass, in contrast to mineral wool: 1. It has a rigid geometric shape that does not depend on the evaporation of the binder. 2. Does not rot. 3. Has a service life commensurate with the life of the building. 4. Dries without breaking the geometry. 5. Does not release phenol vapor into the environment.

Do mice chew on ETIZ® thermal insulation?

Our material is inorganic, so mice do not eat it, much less burrow in it.

Will thermal insulation protect me from extraneous sounds, noise from neighbors?

If ETIZ® thermal insulation is installed indoors (for example, in partitions or on internal walls), then it works in the same way as sound insulation, protecting against extraneous noise from an adjacent room.