Replace power cord: How To Replace a Power Cord Plug

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How to Replace Electrical Cords & Plugs

In This Article:

Types of Cords & Plugs
About Cords & Plugs
Replacing Electrical Cords

An overview of how electrical cords and plugs work plus instructions on how to replace them

Age and heavy usage can take their toll on appliance and lamp cords and plugs. Common victims are cords and plugs of appliances you use frequently—irons and blow dryers, for example; ones you’ve had a long time, such as toasters, lamps, and refrigerators; and vintage models whose electrical systems are simply wearing out.

Types of Cords & Plugs

There are several types of electrical cords. You can usually identify the type by the kind of insulation it has:

• Lamps and fixtures have molded plastic cords.

• Heaters typically have neoprene, cotton, or braided rayon cords..

• Power tools have rounded plastic cords.

• Vacuum cleaners generally have ribbed plastic cords.

If you buy a new cord for an appliance, be sure to get one that is the proper type for that particular kind of appliance. Types of Electrical Cords & Plugs © Don Vandervort, HomeTips

The three basic kinds of plugs are self-connecting, terminal-screw, and three-prong.

Lamps and small appliances mostly use self-connecting plugs. The prongs clamp onto the wires of the cord, making an automatic connection. However, these plugs do not meet National Electrical Code standards.

With terminal-screw plugs, the wires attach to screws inside the cord body; this type of plug is usually found on older appliances. An older terminal-screw plug often has a removable insulating disk covering the terminals and wires. Newer plugs have rigid insulating barriers.

Three-prong plugs are used for larger appliances such as washers, dryers, refrigerators, and power tools and include a prong that grounds the appliance. When planning where you are going to place a large appliance, be sure you have the appropriate kind of outlet available, or plan to install one.

About Cords & Plugs

Damaged cords or plugs can be extremely dangerous. They can spark or smoke, causing a fire. If you see a cord or plug sparking, unplug the appliance immediately, and, just to be safe, cut power to the outlet. Let the plug cool for a bit, and then check the plug, cord, and outlet to see if they’re damaged. If the appliance is damaged, take it to a shop to be serviced or buy a new one. If the outlet is damaged, have it repaired or replaced.This heavy-duty plug is attached with screws. © Don Vandervort, HomeTips

Disconnect and replace a plug right away if it is cracked or discolored, if it feels warm when the appliance is on, or if it has badly bent contacts.

To replace cords and plugs on a 240-volt appliance such as a dryer or other large appliance, purchase a pigtail cord with a plug molded to it. If the pigtail cord or the appliance is not color-coded, first attach the center wire of the pigtail to the center terminal screw on the appliance, and then connect the remaining wires to the other terminal screws.

Replacing Electrical Cords

It’s very simple to replace a lamp cord. Simply disconnect the old cord and snip it off, using wire cutters, a few inches below the bottom of the lamp. Tape the new cord to it with electrical tape and then draw the new cord up through the lamp stem by pulling the old cord out from the top. Remove the tape from the cords and discard the old cord.The easiest way to replace a lamp cord is to snip it off, then strip, connect, and tape the replacement cord to it. Push the repaired section inside the fixture.

When an appliance cord is defective, it should always be replaced; never attempt to repair it. If you can disassemble the appliance to see how the cord is connected, you may be able to handle this job yourself (be sure to unplug the appliance first). Otherwise, call an appliance repair person.

Note that most new plugs are “polarized”—one blade of the plug is wider than the other. When replacing this type, be sure to mark the side of the wire that goes to the wider blade (you can use a piece of tape) so that you can match-up your new wire accordingly.

Most cords are secured to the appliance with a strain-relief device, loops, or a clamp that must be removed. For screw-type, solderless connections, unscrew the terminal screws that hold the cord and screw a new cord in its place.

Cord wires that are twisted together and secured with wire nuts are easy to undo—just remove the wire nuts, untwist the wires, and reverse the process with a new cord (strip 1/2 inch of insulation from the wire ends).

If the cord’s ends are soldered to terminals and you know soldering techniques, you can remove the old cord and solder a replacement to the terminals. Otherwise, leave this work to an appliance repairperson.

When you replace a cord, be sure to use an identical replacement; take the defective cord with you to the hardware store or electrical supply company to find a match.

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Replacing Bad, Cut, or Damaged Power Cords on Your Power Tools : eReplacementParts.

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Sometimes power tools and other electronic devices just don’t start up after flipping that “on” switch. After checking outlets and breakers, taking a close look at the machine is the next step toward solving the problem.
Sure, a busted tool can delay your work or project, but just because a tool isn’t receiving power, it doesn’t always mean that the tool is broken for good. With the right parts and a little know-how, power cord issues can be taken care of by any tool or machine owner.

For more information on Power Cords–Click here.
For power supply problems caused by bad, cut, or damaged power cords, this article explains steps to replace the cord and get that tool or machine back to work in no time.


 
Removing the Old Cord
Uncovering the wire terminals is the first step to removing the old cord.
Most power tool cords are connected directly to the tool switch through a wire terminal. Most switches are located in the handle of the power tool.
First, the tool plate or safety cover must be removed to expose the inside of the tool and to allow access to the wire terminals. Sometimes more than one covering must be removed, and, for example, the handle of the tool must often be removed as well. Once the tool casing is removed, the cord wires can be disconnected from the wire terminals.
(Hint #1: Before disconnecting the cord wires from their terminals, it is important to note the route that the wires follow out of the terminals to connect to the plug. The wires of the new cord will need to be routed into the wire terminals in the same way. Making this quick check can help prevent the wires from being pinched after installation of the new cord. Marking each wire of the old cord with masking tape can also ensure correct replacement of the new power cord’s wires. )
(Hint #2: If the power cord replacement is being done along with a new tool switch replacement, it may be a good idea to check the new switch’s wiring pattern first, as it may require a different pattern. This can be found in the manufacturer’s wiring diagrams.)
To disconnect the cord wires from the terminals, loosen the terminal screws with a small screwdriver and pull the wires out of the terminal. Cords with three-pronged plugs usually have three wires and cords with two-pronged plugs usually only have two wires.
Now that the terminal screws are loose and the wires are removed, the last step is removing the cord’s retaining bracket. Most power tools have one, and most of them have to be unscrewed.
If the old power cord is marked for later reference, it can be set aside to help with the positioning of the new cord wires later on.
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Stripping the New Cord (when necessary)
If the wires of the new cord are already stripped of insulation, then it is ready to install and this step can be skipped.  If not…
The new cord wires may need to be stripped before installation. Before stripping the wires, a portion of the cord jacket must be cut. This jacket is the flexible, protective covering that surrounds the inner wires inside the cord.
How long of a piece of the cord jacket should be removed? The best way to answer that question is to look at the old cord and to remove the same length of cord jacket on the new power cord as is missing on the old one.
Carefully cut the cord jacket length-wise (to match the length of the exposed inner wires of the old cord) without damaging the inner wires, and remove that length of the jacket. Compare the exposed inner wires of the new cord against those of the old cord to make sure that the length of the exposed wires is the same. If everything checks out, the inner wires are ready to be stripped.
Strip away ½ inch of the inner-wire insulation using a pair of wire strippers. Using wire strippers for this step is very important. If a knife or other make-shift tool is used, it can be very easy to damage the wires inside the insulation, reducing the amount of power that will go to the motor of the power tool.
Last, twist the wires carefully with lineman’s pliers. This makes for a better connection between the wires and the wire terminals inside the power tool. The new cord is now stripped and ready to be installed.
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 Installing the New Cord
Place the new cord wires correctly into their wire terminals. Checking the marked, old cord can be useful for this step. Routing the cord and wires in the right path can help avoid pinching when the tool case (plate) is put back into place.
Now all that is left is for the new power cord to be secured back in place by re-tightening the retaining bracket.
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Replacing the Safety Cover
Correctly and securely replace the tool’s plates, handle, and safety covers. Again, making sure that the cord and wires are not pinched in this step will increase the life of the tool and help the tool run safely.
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Checking the Tool for Safety
The repaired power tool should be checked for electrical safety.
A bad electrical connection can pass electrical current through the metal housing of the tool; this is a serious danger for operation. A multitester is the best way to ensure that the tool is safe by testing for current in the tool housing.
With the multitester set to test continuity, put one end to the plug and the other end to the outside housing of the tool. If the multiester doesn’t register any electrical current then the repaired tool is ready for safe operation and this power tool repair is complete. For a “Multitesters 101” article-Click here.

 

If you’re looking to replace a power cord for your power tool or machine, see our Power Cords parts page to find the cord you need. Our easy searches and fast shipping options can get your new power cord to you in no time.

 

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How To Fix Electrical Cords (2 prong & 3 prong)

Published: · Modified: by Rachel

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Learn how to fix an extension cord or other electrical cord for $5. Stop throwing out small appliances because the dog chewed the electrical cord! These simple steps take only a few minutes to save money and time. Includes 2 prong and 3 prong plugs and video instructions.

Today’s post is sort of random, but you wouldn’t believe how many times this has come up for us. From extension cords to power tools, we have had to replace several plugs.

A neighbor accidentally burned our sander cord, the dog chewed the lamp cord, a friend’s crock pot melted, fixing an extension cord that was a little too extended, and the list goes on.

This is a great way to save some money as extension cords and power tools are very expensive. And it only takes a few minutes! While I don’t advocate trying to do a home improvement project you aren’t prepared for, if you can put in a light fixture, this is even more simple.

While you can replace the cord itself, and splice together, I find this method easier and more steady long term. This method will replace both bad plugs and damaged cords.

Recommended Supplies

  • Wire cutters or scissors
  • Razor Blade
  • Strippers– this set also has a small cord cutter built in.
  • Replacement Plug – For exterior plugs like power tools, extension cords, etc, I recommend a commercial grade plug like this. Sometimes wires can pull over time out of cheap plugs. Replace a 2 prong plug with a 2 prong and a 3 prong (grounded) plug with a 3 prong.

Tip: The numbers on the side of stripper tools refer to the wire gauge or AWG. As the wire gets smaller in diameter, the AWG number increases. It is important to note that wire strippers usually have two sets of numbers, one for stranded wire and the other is for solid wire.

What tool is best to cut wires?

For small wires or those with a thin casing, a good set of strippers is the easiest bet. If you are unfamiliar with using strippers, here is a quick guide.

For cutting or stripping large wires or those with thick plastic coatings, I like super sharp cutting pliers. The classic wire strippers just never seem to pull the plastic covering off well even if you have the right size. Cutting pliers don’t need to be large or heavy for most wires, they need to be sharp, and you will have to rotate them around to remove the wire covering.

Some strippers come with a cutting section and a flat plier section. I don’t like many of those because they tend to crush more than actually cut, but I have nothing against them if you find a good pair that works for you.

How To Replace a Three Prong Plug

The instructions for a three prong plug are also at the bottom of this post with step-by-step photos, but there are a few tips for identifying wires and terminals included here.

  1. Using scissors or wire snips, cut the wire just behind the damaged area. Make sure the item is unplugged (yes, I had to say it!).
  2. Carefully remove one inch of the outer covering without cutting into the wires themselves. The easiest way is to cut down with a razor blade about an inch and then unwrap and cut off the outer casing. You will want to have roughly an inch exposed at least.
  3. Identify the wires. In three pronged plugs, the white wire is always the neutral wire. The ground wire is either green or a copper wire with no casing. The hot wire is the last one and is black.
  4. Using strippers (or a razor blade), cut ½ inch of the colored casing around the wire off, exposing the bare metal. Not to fret if you cut through the wire or cut into the wire, just cut back the outer case back a bit further and try again.
  5. Open the replacement plug according to the instructions. Push the white (neutral) wire into the silver pinch point. Tighten the screws and lock the wire in place. The black wire (hot) goes into bronze or copper colored pinch point. The green or copper wire (ground) goes into green pinch point. All wires should be securely screwed as well.
  6. Close up the replacement plug, ensuring that none of your wires or casings are exposed outside the plug housing. You should give it a tug to make sure none of the wires move or separate from the plug housing.

Tip: After identifying the wires, you can use some tape around the wires to label them and keep from mixing the wires up. (This occasionally helps me speed things up.)

How To Replace A Two Prong Plug

This process is nearly the same as that of the three prong plug. However, there is not a grounded or green wire in a two prong cord.

  1. Using scissors or wire snips, cut the wire just behind the damaged area. Make sure the item is unplugged (yes, I had to say it again!).
  2. Strip the wires. Most two prong appliance cords don’t have a protective outer casing, but if yours does, remove 1 inch back from the end. You may have to peel the two sides apart. Cut ½ inch of the protective plastic around the wire off, exposing the bare metal.
  3. Open the replacement plug according to the instructions. There should be a silver terminal on one side and a bronze/copper colored terminal on the other, each with a screw. Push the white (neutral) wire into the silver pinch point. Screw and lock the wire in place. The black wire (hot) goes into gold pinch point and securely screwed.
  4. Close up the replacement plug, ensuring that none of your wires or casings are exposed outside the plug housing. You should give it a tug to make sure none of the wires move or separate from the plug housing.

Identifying wires: The neutral wire (white wire) will always be marked in some way: writing on the length of the wire, ribbing, a white stripe, or a thin white covering around the wire itself. If you cannot figure it out by looking at the cord, the neutral wire is more easily identified by the prongs. Modern appliance cords usually have two prongs of different sizes, so that you can only insert the plug into an outlet one way. With cords of this type, the larger prong always connects to the neutral wire.

Video Demonstration

Here is a video of my husband demonstration the technique. I had to operate the camera.

FAQs

Is extension cord repair safe?

I always advise people to never take on projects they have no business trying. Exposed wires and melted cords are NOT safe; replacing a plug is completely safe as long as you follow the instructions well and identify wires correctly.

What if my cord is too short?

If it is too short to reach an outlet, you can use an extension cord. If the cord is too short to wire into a new plug, you would need an entirely new cord in order to wire it back into the housing of the item, which can be more difficult and varied from one item to the next.

Can I use this technique on any power cord?

This solution works on everything from lamps to power tools. And multiple scenarios including burned plugs, broken plug prongs, separated wires and plugs, and even animal chewed electrical cords. I do not recommend utilizing on large appliances such as dryers or electric stoves.

Can you fix a cord that has been chewed in half?

Yes. Follow the same steps as for a damaged cord and cut it behind the damaged area.

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  • ▢ 1 Replacement plug 2 prong or 3 prong matching what you are replacing.

  • Using scissors or wire snips, cut the wire just behind the damaged area. Make sure the item is unplugged.

  • Take the razor blade and carefully remove one inch of the outer covering (if one is present) without cutting into the wires themselves. You will want to have roughly an inch of the wires exposed at least.

  • Identify the wires. In three pronged plugs, the white wire is always the neutral wire. The ground wire is either green or a copper wire with no casing. The hot wire is the last one and is black. Two prong plugs do not have a green wire.

  • Using wire strippers (or a razor blade), cut ½ inch of the colored casing around the wire off, exposing the bare metal.

  • Open the replacement plug according to the instructions. Push the white (neutral) wire into the silver pinch point. Tighten the screws and lock the wire in place. The black wire (hot) goes into bronze or copper colored pinch point. The green or copper wire (ground) goes into green pinch point. All wires should be securely screwed.

  • Close up the replacement plug, ensuring that none of your wires or casings are exposed outside the plug housing. You should give it a tug to make sure none of the wires move or separate from the plug housing.

Identifying wires: The neutral wire (white wire) will always be marked in some way: writing on the length of the wire, ribbing, a white stripe, or a thin white covering around the wire itself. If you cannot figure it out by looking at the cord, the neutral wire is more easily identified by the prongs. Modern appliance cords usually have two prongs of different sizes, so that you can only insert the plug into an outlet one way. With cords of this type, the larger prong always connects to the neutral wire.

 

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Electrical Plug Replacement – iFixit Repair Guide

Written By: Tim Spellings
(and 9 other contributors)

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6

Time Required

15 – 30 minutes

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Introduction

A common issue with electronic devices is a severed or damaged wire. Whether a dog chews through a wire, a child playing with scissors cuts a wire, or a large appliance slices through a wire, many have encountered this problem. This guide teaches how to remove a damaged plug and replace it with a new plug. The wiring in the lamp plug must be done correctly in order for the lamp to turn on after the repair is finished. This guide shows how to properly locate the “hot” and “neutral” connections.

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    • org/HowToDirection”>

      Be sure to unplug the lamp.

    • Locate the damaged portion of wire.

    • Cut the damaged plug from the lamp cord one inch below the damaged area

    Edit

    • Separate the wire by gently pulling it apart.

    • The wire with the raised ribbing on the coating is the neutral wire.

    • The hot wire has a smooth coating.

    Edit

    • Strip the coating off the wire.

    • Expose 3/4″ of the copper wire.

    • Twist the exposed copper wire so that there is no fraying.

    • org/HowToDirection”>

      Twisting the wires ensures the strongest connection and maximum safety.

    Edit

    • Loosen the screw and open the replacement plug.

    • The silver screw is the neutral connection, and the brass screw is the hot connection.

    • The different connections must be determined in order to properly wire the replacement plug.

    Edit

    • org/HowToDirection”>

      Wrap the neutral wire around the neutral screw. Tighten the screw to secure the wire.

    • Remember the neutral wire is the wire with raised ribbing on the coating.

    • Wrap the hot wire around the brass screw. Tighten the screw to secure the wire.

    • The hot wire has a smooth coating.

    Edit

Almost done!

If the lamp the does not work after the replacing the plug, the issue may be located in the bulb housing or in the connections.

Conclusion

If the lamp the does not work after the replacing the plug, the issue may be located in the bulb housing or in the connections.

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How to Replace an Extension Cord Plug

By

Timothy Thiele

Timothy Thiele

Timothy Thiele is an IBEW Local #176 Union Electrician with over 30 years of experience in residential, commercial, and industrial wiring. He has an associate degree in electronics and completed a four-year apprenticeship. He’s been writing for The Spruce on residential wiring and home installation projects for over eight years.

Learn more about The Spruce’s
Editorial Process

Updated on 07/24/22

Fact checked by

Jessica Wrubel

Fact checked by
Jessica Wrubel

Jessica Wrubel has an accomplished background as a writer and copy editor, working for various publications, newspapers and in public libraries assisting with reference, research and special projects. In addition to her journalism experience, she has been educating on health and wellness topics for over 15 years in and outside of the classroom.

Learn more about The Spruce’s
Editorial Process

The Spruce / Kevin Norris

Project Overview

Extension cords can be damaged in many different ways, from dragging them along the ground to running over them with vehicles or closing them in a door. Perhaps the most common damage comes from pulling out the plug by the cord—not the plug. Eventually, this stretches out the cord wires and separates the sheathing, or outer jacket, from the plug, exposing the cord wires. One more result of wear and tear is the ground prong coming loose. When any of these forms of damage occur, it’s time to replace the plug.

Replacing a plug is the only repair you should ever make to an extension cord. Cords with damaged sheathing, exposed wires, or other damage to the cord itself should be replaced. Just wrapping the damaged cord with electrical tape isn’t good enough. You don’t know how much damage the cord has suffered, and electrical tape provides unreliable protection against shock. 

Extension cords come in many forms, as do the replacement plugs used to fix them. Make sure to choose a plug that is suited for the cord—a grounded three-prong plug if the cord has a ground wire, a two-prong polarized plug for simple household extension cords, etc.

The project demonstrated here shows how to replace the plug on a typical medium-duty grounded extension cord.

Equipment / Tools

  • Wire cutters
  • Utility knife
  • Wire strippers
  • Phillips screwdriver

Materials

  • Replacement plug

The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  1. Cut Off the Old Plug and Fit the New

    Make sure the cord is unplugged from any power source. Cut off the old plug from the cord, using wire cutters. Cut off any damaged portion at the end of the cord. Slide the new plug over the cut end of the cord and out of the way for now.

    Some plugs have two parts, with one piece containing the wiring connections and prongs and another piece that is an outer shell or body. In this case, slide only the outer shell onto the cord for now.

    Warning

    The replacement plug must have the same amperage and voltage ratings as the original cord. These ratings are printed on the plug. The ratings on the old plug will indicate the type you need.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  2. Strip the Outer Jacket

    Cut partially through the outer jacket of the cord, using a utility knife. You must be careful not to cut all the way through the jacket because you may also cut through the insulation on the cord wires, creating a serious shock or fire hazard. The cut should extend 3 inches from the end of the cord.

    Split the jacket with your fingernails (at the end of the cord) and peel the two sides apart along the cut. Trim off the loose jacket with wire cutters or a utility knife.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  3. Strip the Wire Insulation

    Strip about 3/4 inch of outer insulation from the end of each conducting wire inside the cord, using wire strippers. Use the notch on the strippers that precisely matches the diameter (gauge) of the wire.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  4. Tie an Underwriter’s Knot

    Tie the white (neutral) and black (hot) cord wires into an underwriter’s knot, if there is room for the knot inside the cord body. This provides added protection against the cord wires separating from the plug connections if the cord is tugged. If there isn’t enough room for an underwriter’s knot, it’s okay not to make one, as long as the plug has a clamping device for securing the cord.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  5. Connect the Cord Wires

    Using a screwdriver, loosen the terminal screws on the plug. Wrap the bare end of the black (hot) wire clockwise around the brass terminal. Tighten the screw down onto the wire. Make sure that no stray wires are sticking out from the connection. Wrapping the wire clockwise ensures that the wire loop tightens around the screw as the screw is tightened.

    Connect the white (neutral) wire to the silver terminal, and connect the green (ground) wire to the ground screw, using the same technique. The ground screw may be marked with green coloring, but in any case, it is always connected to the U-shaped ground prong on the plug. Double-check the connections for tightness by pulling gently on each wire.

    The new male or female plug will usually have an indicator line on it to show how much insulation to strip for an optimum connection. Most newer plugs have a clamping connection that the wire slides straight into before tightening the screw. This eliminates the need for wrapping the bare wire around the screws.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

  6. Secure the Plug

    Using a screwdriver, tighten the plug clamp onto the cord. If the plug is in two parts, slide the outer shell up to the wired portion of the plug and join the two parts with the provided screws, then tighten the cord clamp on the body.

    The Spruce / Kevin Norris

Repairing Power Cords and Plugs – How to Repair Major Appliances: Tips and Guidelines

Major appliances have many components in common, making repairs easier. For example, once you’ve learned to repair a power cord on a refrigerator, you can apply the same skills to repairing a washing machine’s power cord.

The following sections explain common devices that are used on major appliances and offers tips on how to repair them.

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Power Cords and Plugs

Many appliance “breakdowns” are really due to worn, frayed power cords or plugs that no longer make proper electrical contact. To ensure safe operation, you should check all appliance cords for problems periodically and replace frayed or broken cords immediately. When you suspect a cord is faulty, remove it from the appliance and test it with a continuity tester. Clip the tester to one blade of the plug and touch the probe to one of the two wires — or, if it’s a plug-in cord, insert the probe into one of the two holes — at the appliance end of the cord. If the tester lights or buzzes, move it to the other wire or hole and test again. Repeat this procedure to test the other blade of the plug. If the tester lights or buzzes at every test point, the cord is not faulty; if it fails to light or buzz at any point, the cord or the plug is faulty. You can pinpoint the defect by cutting off the plug and testing the cut end of the cord; if the tester lights or buzzes at all test points now, the plug is the defective part. The damaged component — cord, plug, or both — should be replaced.

Often, the hardest part of replacing an appliance cord is determining how the appliance comes apart so that you can remove the old cord and attach a new one. Sometimes all you have to do is remove the cover from a connection box. In other cases, as with a small hair dryer, the unit itself must be partially disassembled before you can reach the terminals. In nearly all cases, the cord is held in place by a clamp or by a fitted strain-relief device. To remove the cord, unscrew the terminal screws or pull the pressure connectors apart, loosen the clamp or remove the strain-relief device, and pull the cord out. Installation of the new cord is simply a reverse procedure. Be sure to save the strain-relief device and replace it on the new cord. If you damage the strain-relief device when you remove it, replace it with a new one of the same type.

In some equipment, the conductor ends are looped around terminal screws, making new connections easy. Carefully strip off the outer insulation (not the insulation on the inner wires) for about 2 inches at the end of the cord. Then, using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor wire. Twist the exposed filaments of each wire clockwise into a solid prong. Loosen the terminal screws and loop each bare wire end clockwise around a screw. Tighten the screws firmly. Connect the wires at the appliance end of the new cord the same way the old wires were connected.

If only the plug on a major appliance is faulty, you can attach a new plug to the old cord. Male plugs, with two blades or with two blades and a grounding prong, plug into an outlet. Female plugs, often used at the appliance end of the cord, have terminal holes instead of blades. Male plugs can usually be taken apart so you can access the terminal screws. Female plugs may be held together by rivets or by screws. Screw-held plugs can be taken apart, but rivet-held plugs cannot be repaired.

When a plug malfunctions, open the plug, if possible, and check to make sure the conductor wires are properly attached to the plug’s screw terminals. If the wires are loose, tighten the terminal screw. This may solve the problem; otherwise, the plug should be replaced. To attach a new male plug:

Step 1: Insert the cord end through the plug opening and pull it through for about five or six inches.

“”

©2006 Publications International, Ltd. On a two-wire plug, tie a tight underwriters’ know with the inner  wires (top). If there is a grounding wire, tie the knot as shown (bottom).

Step 2: Carefully strip off the outer insulation for about 2 inches. Then, using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor wire.

Step 3: Twist the exposed filaments of each wire clockwise into a solid prong. After twisting the conductor ends, tie a tight knot with the inner wires of the cord. Then pull the plug down over the knot, leaving the exposed ends of the conductor wires sticking out. Loosen the terminal screws in the plug.

Step 4: On a two-wire plug, loop each wire around one prong and toward a screw terminal. Loop the bare wire end clockwise around the screw terminal and tighten the screw. If the screws are different colors, connect the white wire to the white screw and the black wire to the yellow screw. On a three-wire plug, use the same technique to connect each of the three wires to a terminal screw. Connect the green grounding wire to the green screw terminal.

Step 5: When the conductor wires are firmly secured to the terminal screws, slide the cardboard insulator over the blades of the plug. If the plug has a clamp-type sleeve, clamp it firmly around the cord.

In the next section, we will delve deeper into your appliances, and learn how to repair gaskets, wiring, switches, and thermostats.

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Cite This!

Please copy/paste the following text to properly cite this HowStuffWorks.com article:

Fix-It Club
“How to Repair Major Appliances”
2 May 2006.
HowStuffWorks.com. <https://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-major-appliances.htm>
22 September 2022

Replacement of the iron power cord in St. Petersburg – prices, addresses

Free consultation
for iron repair

8 (812) 243-11-85

Phone consultation services are provided by one of our partner service centers.

Service and repair center

8 (964) 330-47-47

  • Iron power cord replacement services
  • payment by card

    • 5

  • urgent repair

    0015

metro Komendantskiy prospect,
Dolgoozernaya st. , 14, St. Petersburg

VUK print

8 (965) 040-38-88

  • Services for replacing the power cord iron
  • Card
  • Free diagnostics
  • Free
    Komendantsky 51/1

    Golden Hands

    8 (905) 209-38-31

    • Services for replacing the power cord of the iron
    • Urgent repair
    • Departure of the master
    • Free diagnostics

    9000
    Novgorodsky prospect 10

    svoyservice

    8 (904) 612-44-95

    • Iron power cord replacement service
    • urgent repair
    • free diagnostics

    Staraya Derevnya metro station,
    Savushkina 131

    The first craftsman RTK

    8 (812) 920-11-58

    • Services for replacing the power cord iron
    • Urgent repair
    • Departure Master

      • 9000 9000 m. Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow
      st. Varshavskaya, d.67

      Service OK

      8 (812) 998-33-09

      • Iron cord replacement service
      • urgent repair
      • departure of the master

      m. Chernyshevskaya,
      Suvorovsky pr., 43-45V

      Return on time (energy quarter)

      8 (812) 368-22-05

      • Services for replacing the power cord iron
      • Card
      • Urgent repair
      • Departure of the master

      9000 m. electric power,
      st. Sveaborgskaya, 10

      m. Chernyshevskaya,
      Suvorovsky pr., 35

      REMO.PLUS

      • Iron cord replacement services
        st. Borovaya d.53 k1

        PiterPrint

        8 (911) 179-92-08

        • Iron cord replacement service
        • card payment
        • urgent repair
        • departure of the master
        • courier call
        • free diagnostics

        Vasileostrovskaya metro station,
        19th line of Vasilyevsky Island, 18

        megaru

        8 (812) 902-66-14

        • Services for replacing the power cord iron
        • Card
        • Master
        • Challenge
        • диагностика бесплатно, даже привет отказе от ремонта”> Free diagnostics free diagnostic0015

        metro Veteranov Avenue,
        Veteranov Avenue 114 to 1

        Oranienbaumsky 39

        metro Veteranov Avenue,
        innovators 112

        System

        8 (812) 509-24-29

        • Services for replacing the power cord of the iron
        • Card
        • Urgent repair
        • Departure of the master
        • Calling Courier
        • free diagnostics

        Novocherkasskaya metro station,
        Novocherkassky 36 k1

        m. Dybenko street,
        Bolsheviks d 25

        Vsevolozsk

        8 (931) 953-94-99 9000 9000 9000

        • Services for replacing the power cord iron
        • Urgent repair
        • Free diagnostics

        9000
        Vsevolozhsk, Khristinovsky 28

        Wellremont

        8 (911) 922-20-50 9000

        • Services for replacing the power cord iron
        • Urgent repair
        • Departure of the master
        • Выезд специалиста и проведение диагностики – бесплатно, при последующем ремонте”> Free diagnostics

        0
        st. Highway to Lavriki house 29

        MASTER+

        8 (812) 974-98-42

        • Iron cord replacement service
        • payment by card
        • urgent repair
        • free diagnostics

        m.
        SYZRANSKAYA 16

        Boutique of household appliances

        8 (812) 941-78-13

        • Services for replacing the power cord iron
        • Master
        • Exit departure
        • CALE

          • . Avtovo,
          Krasnoputilovskaya, 45

          TechnoVectorNorth

          8 (812) 242-71-70

          • Services for replacing the power cord of the iron
          • Payment by card

            • 9006

          • Departure of the master
          • Courier call
          • Free diagnostics . star,
            Zvezdnaya 16A

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            How to replace a broken cord in an oven

            A modern electric oven facilitates culinary experimentation by allowing you to use different operating modes to achieve the most desired result. Manufacturers equip equipment with sensors to ensure compliance with the temperature regime. The management of the multifunctional device is simplified, and there are no difficulties with maintenance. But over time, natural wear and tear is inevitable, and sometimes breakdowns occur for various reasons. For example, damage to the power cord cannot be ruled out, requiring immediate repair.

            Connecting an electric oven

            Since the oven is a very powerful piece of equipment, it is ideal to run its own line and install a separate differential circuit breaker. The connection is made to a socket with a grounding contact. Accordingly, a wire with three cores should lead to it, one of which is connected to the ground bus in the shield. It is important to place the outlet not behind the oven, but slightly to the side or above it so that it does not heat up from the working equipment.

            Features of the cord

            The manufacturer equips the equipment with a cable that matches the power of the oven. Most often, this is a flexible copper wire with twisted conductors placed in PVC insulation and under the same sheath. It is immune to mechanical damage, as it is flexible, it is easier to position it to the maximum conveniently and taking into account safety precautions.

            How to change a damaged cord

            The serviceability of the supply cable is a guarantee of safe operation. Therefore, at the slightest suspicion of damage, it is necessary to check the cord and, if necessary, replace it. Due to the high degree of responsibility, it is better to entrust such work to professionals.

            We find out the cause of the breakdown

            Since PVA cable with a reliable braid is most often used as a power cord, cuts and punctures of the wire are rarely observed. The most common malfunction is loose contacts, which is observed at the point of attachment to the plug.

            Purchase of a cord of the required rating

            First of all, the new cable must fully comply with the technical parameters of the equipment. You can find out its characteristics by looking at the marking of the old cord. As a rule, marks are indicated on it, what is the nominal value of the cable. The most typical solution is a cord with three cores with a cross section of 1. 5 mm each. One of them is grounding.

            Removing the built-in oven

            If the appliance is built into furniture, it must be carefully dismantled to replace the cable. This is a very difficult and painstaking work, since it is important not to damage the cabinet.

            Replacing the wire

            This work is done when the automatic input is turned off to avoid electric shock. It is necessary to disconnect the old wire from the terminals and screw a new cable in its place. It is important to observe the color marking of the cores. Phase (brown) is led to terminal L, zero (blue) to “N”, ground (green) to “PE”.

            Function test

            After screwing the terminals securely and closing the case, you can try to turn on the device. If there are no sparks, an indication appears on the screen, the cabinet is ready for operation.

            Can I repair it myself?

            Working with electrical equipment requires appropriate knowledge and skills. You will also need experience and a permit up to 1000 watts. Otherwise, there is a high risk of damage to the equipment or electrical injury, which is dangerous to health and life.

            Contacting a specialist

            If you have any problems with the power cord, it is better to contact a professional service center. An experienced specialist with the appropriate permits and approvals will quickly complete the task. True, when a cord malfunction is only a link in the chain of damage caused by natural wear and tear of equipment, it is worth considering buying a new oven. Since the cost of permanent repairs is commensurate with the cost of fully serviceable equipment, which is also provided with a guarantee from the manufacturer.

            Reliable appliances from Korting

            The company produces the widest range of high-performance, versatile and economical ovens. This brand is famous for its ability to develop unique designs. Therefore, in the line there is a solution for any interior. Including, you can buy a laconic modern wardrobe, and a classic oven with elegant decorative inserts.

            A wide range of equipment in terms of capacity. If desired, you can buy a model of only 45 liters. There is also an oven with a chamber volume of 110 liters, which will open up the widest prospects for a variety of culinary experiments. The number of cooking modes is from six to 15.

            The functionality is predetermined by the number of options. Among the basic ones are the upper and lower heating, which are used both separately and together. In addition to them, the manufacturer offers a grill and convection. You can buy an oven with a built-in steamer and microwave.

            The company cares about safety in cooking. For maximum protection against burns, you should purchase a cabinet with four glasses in the door. The cooling system contributes to reducing the risk of injury. The control lock will exclude unplanned start of work and unwanted intervention in the course of the program during the cooking process.

            For ease of use and ease of maintenance, the chamber is coated with easy clean enamel. You can choose cabinets with traditional and catalytic cleaning. Pyrolysis and steam treatment are also used.

            Company store

            We have original Korting appliances for sale. In the catalog you can choose an oven for the needs of the family. The equipment comes with a manufacturer’s warranty. Managers will help with the choice of a successful model, arrange delivery if necessary.

            How to fix a laptop power cord yourself

            This happens so often that you have probably experienced it first hand. The power adapter plug that comes with your laptop or all-in-one starts to peel off and sometimes just fall off. You have to move the cord, bend it into a certain position or pull it under the computer so that it finally works. New power supplies can cost a couple of thousand, but they can often be repaired for free if you already have the necessary materials and an understanding of how to do it. How to fix the laptop power cord – we will talk about this now.

            The same thing can happen with the plug on any power adapter, but most often it happens with laptop power supplies, especially with coaxial cords (braided cord – not to be confused with antenna cable). This is because people carry laptops with them all the time, and the constant folding and unfolding of the cord, combined with the manipulation of the plug, can lead to breakage.

            Motherboard malfunctions signs that can be detected

            In fact, it is not the plug itself that breaks, but the cord, or, more specifically, the connections between the cord and the plug are often frayed. This often happens with headphones as well, but these are usually impossible to fix due to the type of wire used; fortunately, this cord can be replaced inexpensively, provided that the headphones are worth it).

            The photo above shows a very common plug. In manufacturing, the wires coming from the cord are soldered or pressed to the pins on the metal part of the plug, and then everything is poured into the mold with plastic or something there to provide strength and form a grip. Too much bending of the cord results in loose connections between the plug and the cord inside the sheath.

            If you have a power adapter that works intermittently, especially when you wiggle the plug, it’s more than likely that the wires have come loose from the plug itself, or that they’re shorting out (touching each other). In any case, the principle of repair is the same. And by the way, you should stop wobbling the plug and either fix it or replace the power supply, because a wobbling plug can damage the socket in your laptop, and laptop repairs will definitely cost a pretty penny.

            It’s always better if you can find the problem before starting the repair. If you have a voltmeter, just check the voltage at the output of the plug and see if it fluctuates when you wiggle the cord. If the voltage does not fluctuate, your laptop’s power connector may be damaged, which entails disassembling the laptop and replacing the connector. Without the necessary experience, it is better not to do this on your own.

            Sometimes the cord may fray as it exits the power supply itself. If the power is lost when the cord is moved near the unit itself, then there is no need to repair the plug. But the only option might be to replace the power adapter, because you will need to open the unit itself in order to perform this repair, and they are not designed to be opened or serviced in any way (although in Russia everything is possible, there would be hands from where needed).

            If you’re ambitious enough, you can unplug the power adapter, cut off the bad part of the cord, and solder it in place. Even though you may be doing more harm than good, if the power adapter doesn’t work, you have nothing to lose. In short, the risk is worth the candle).

            If you determine that the problem is with the plug, you need to either replace it or reconnect the wire to it (solder). If you can find a new plug, you might be better off just cutting off the old one and soldering on the new one. Just make sure the plus and minus are connected correctly. The plus is usually the inner sleeve, and the minus is the outer part of the fork. However, before doing anything, make sure the power adapter is not plugged into a wall outlet. Strongly not shy away, but it can short-circuit).

            To repair an old plug, you must remove the sheath from it, as shown above. You can simply make a cut on the side and remove by pulling out the metal plug itself. In any case, it is important not to wobble the metal part of the plug that will be reused. And most importantly, do not cut yourself anything. Many get it out of habit. I warned!

            Now you can shorten the wire by cutting off the part that is untwisted. The plug used in these photos had an inner strand that was sheathed. this strand is usually clamped into the plug to hold the wire in place. To pull out the wire, it is best to open the contact with round-nosed pliers.

            Be careful not to damage the outside of the plug. If the center wire is soldered in place, you will need to heat it up with a soldering iron and pull it out once the old solder has melted. Be careful, the plug heats up quickly, ideally hold it with pliers or tweezers. The negative wire is always soldered and you can just heat the solder and remove the wire.

            When you’re done removing the old solder and wire from the plug, it should look something like the one you see above.

            It’s time to prepare the ends of the cord as shown above. Cut the center wire to about a couple of centimeters and separate about 5 mm. Twist the outer braided wire together as shown in the figure and shorten its length by about 3 cm.

            The length of the wires is critical. The center wire should be inserted into the center sleeve of the plug, and the outer wire should reach the outside of the plug, in the same place where the old wire was soldered.

            Then thread the bare end of the center wire into the inner sleeve and crimp to hold it in place. You can clamp it with side cutters, the main thing here is not to overdo it, since you can easily bite through the contact. You can also solder the center wire instead, but don’t let it get too hot, as the plastic parts of the plug can melt and only go to the trash can.

            Now it’s worth taking the heat shrink and seating it in place with a lighter, meaning the braid wire, so that there is no short circuit. You should leave 5 mm so that it can then be soldered. You can use duct tape instead of heat shrink, but heat shrink is much more effective. It also needs to be handled carefully – it’s very easy to overheat. ..

            Now it’s time to solder the outer wire to the outside of the plug as shown above. You may need three hands for this), a small vise or clamp. Be careful not to use too much solder to create a short circuit between the inside and outside of the plug.

            All that’s left to do is take some more heat shrink and make it look something like the one shown above. The shrinkage should cover some of the insulation on the cord and the solder joint on the outside of the plug.

            The heat shrink will soon cool and shrink, and in doing so will become harder, giving some strength to the structure. However, it’s a good idea to put a couple more heat shrinks on top, as shown above, to make the connection even stronger. If you have a voltmeter, you can use it to check if the power adapter is working properly. Congratulations, you now have a practically new power supply. Use on health!
            How to properly dispose of garbage in Russia
            How to keep your teeth in order?

            Laptop power supply cable

            What are they needed for ? A very common malfunction of a laptop power supply is a breakdown of the cable itself, a breakdown of the output plug, often pets rattle about this, gnaw through the cables. In such cases, as a rule, the power supply itself is working, it is only necessary to replace the cable by disassembling the power supply and soldering a new one. Masters call them simply – tails. Of course, you can buy a new laptop power supply, but as a rule, replacing the cable is cheaper.

            Also a fairly common disease in the power supply for an Apple laptop – when the MagSafe connector is flooded in this connector, the block identifier chip dies, and the laptop does not see the power supply. In this case, you can buy an Apple laptop power cable and replace it.

            Contact is often lost inside the plug of Samsung power supplies:

            The wire at the input to the power supply also often breaks or burns out:

            Yes, and they just step on the plug and break:

            They fray the cable itself:

            They try to repair the connector with improvised means:

            In all these cases, replacing the power cable will help.

            They are sold in our laptop parts store.

            nbzip.ru

            Power cord for Samsung laptop

            • AliExpress
            • Chargers

            I often go on business trips. The laptop is always with me. What just happened to him. One of the weak points was the cable from the power supply. He ordered it. Perhaps someone else has also encountered this problem. Quite briefly. Placed an order over a year ago. The item is currently unavailable. Therefore, in the review, a link to another seller. The product is similar (the photo is identical), but a little more expensive. The cable from time to time and frequent contact with the body becomes not so elastic (this often happens with headphones). The cable becomes brittle. Before the first repair, he just shorted out with smoke. I have it repaired. Then he periodically just broke. And it happened at the most inopportune moment. Each time the cable became shorter and shorter. To be honest, I was not at all satisfied with such an unreliable job.

            The power supply was absolutely intact, so I decided to order only the cable in China. I ordered a long time ago, in May 2016. The parcel reached 16 days. It’s pretty fast. Recently, delivery from China has been stretched to two months (for me personally).

            The package was super. Yes, and there was nothing special to break.

            Compared purchased with native. They differ in the form factor of the input plug, Samsung had an angled one (at 90˚), which is more convenient. What is left of him you see.

            To change the cable, no special mind is required, just first you need to disassemble the power supply. And he’s stuck. I had to use brute force. The main thing is that without fanaticism.

            Compared the veins of nutrition. The purchased one is a little thinner and the cable design is simpler.

            No tips. Two tinned wires at the output. Red is a plus.

            Slightly thinner diameter. Complete 1mm., Purchased 0.7-0.8mm.

            But the main thing is that the voltage drop on the wires should not be too large. Measured the resistance. First measured with shorted probes.

            And then I measured the resistance of the positive wire. But first, the native cable. The hull core had a lot of resistance due to its defectiveness, so I did not compare it with it.

            And this is already purchased.

            The resistance is slightly higher. 0.9 ohm vs 0.5 ohm. For the rest, I have no comments.

            I’ve been using it for over a year, no problems. In general, the purchase is satisfied. That’s all in general.

            Good luck!

            Plan to buy +17 Add to favorites Liked the review +28 +46

            mysku.ru

            How to replace the laptop power supply cable

            In this case, we are talking about the HP dv6 model. During the repair process, all safety rules must be observed. This method was suggested by user eriol. He discovered with a multi-tester that his cable had zero output voltage and that there was a strange noise in the adapter box.

            Step 1: Tools

            1. Pliers.
            2. Forceps.
            3. Insulating tape.
            4. Scissors.
            5. X-Acto Knife.
            6. Tin wire.
            7. Scotch.
            8. Multitester.
            9. Dremel with attachments.
            10. Soldering iron.
            11. Desoldering pump.

            Step 2: Adapter

            Disconnect all wires.

            Use your Dremel to open the adapter box. The electrical circuit must be protected by a special metal sheath. Therefore, you can not be afraid to spoil something.

            Step 3: Unsoldering

            Notice how the cables are connected to the board.

            The photo shows a coaxial cable that goes to 3 levels: GND (external), VOUT (middle) and ID (internal). The ID pin is necessary for “communication” between the adapter and the laptop.

            Unsolder all legs one by one. With the help of a multitester, we will find out if we excluded GND and VOUT completely from the circuit.

            Step 4: Repair

            Now we know for sure that the short circuit is somewhere in the cable. Let’s use the multitester again.

            When cutting off the defective part, the main thing is not to touch the “plastic spring” (see fig. 1). We clean the wiring for each level, twist and isolate them.

            We solder them again, remembering which wire should be in one place or another.

            Step 5: Box

            Assemble the plastic box and connect the rest of the wires.

            Step 6: Done

            Checking and making sure we can fix the HP dv6 laptop power cable.

            rukikryki.ru

            See also

            • Intercom cable with camera and lock
            • Fiber optic cable for internet Rostelecom
            • Metallic braided cable
            • Outdoor cable for electricity
            • How to check the cable for integrity
            • Cable channel than cut
            • Cable from pole to house by air
            • Cable rkgm specifications
            • Network cable not connected error
            • Power cables with plastic insulation
            • How to find out the cable cross-section by diameter

            Power drill repair | DIY

            A damaged power cord is a common cause of power tool failure. To fix the breakdown, it is not necessary to contact the service, because you can repair the drill yourself. Our master class describes in detail the diagnostic process and the procedure for repairing or replacing the power cord.

            Indirect signs of a power cable failure – the electric drill simply does not turn on or works intermittently. At the same time, there is voltage in the outlet, but there are no signs of mechanical breakdowns of the tool (the drill chuck rotates freely by hand).

            Preparation for work

            To check and repair the drill, you will need a set of tools:

            • Screwdrivers.
            • Cutting pliers.
            • Stripping pliers.
            • Multimeter or indicator screwdriver.
            • Soldering iron.
            • Solder, rosin.
            • Insulating tape.

            The soldering kit required for tinning the wires can be dispensed with. The drill will work fine, but we recommend tinning the wires for two reasons:
            Copper strands will oxidize much more slowly, which means that reliable contact will last longer.
            Spike is guaranteed to fasten all the wires, ensuring the passage of current over the entire cross section of the conductor.
            If you need to replace the cord with a new one, purchase a cable with a rubber sheath, which is much more elastic than PVC film. There are many varieties of flexible wires, the most common are “KG” (Russian) and H-07-RN (foreign). Choose the length of the cord that is convenient for work; according to the professional experience of using an electric drill, the optimal length is about 4 meters.
            The cross section of the cable depends on the power of the tool:

            • up to 500 W – 2×0.75 sq. mm.;
            • up to 900 W – 2×1.0 sq. mm.;
            • up to 1500 W – 2×1.5 sq. mm.

            Detach the side handle of the power drill before use so that it is out of the way.

            Troubleshooting

            Before disassembling a non-working drill, plug it into an outlet and move the power cable near the entrance to the housing by pressing or locking the power button. The tool will show signs of life if the cause of the breakage is the chafing of the strands in the bends of the cord.

            Unplug the power cord and start disassembling the drill. First, unscrew the bolts holding the plastic halves of the case with a screwdriver.

            See if there are additional latches that need to be pushed in or out. Now separate the halves, if necessary, carefully prying with a screwdriver.

            After removing the cover, take a photo or note the placement of parts and wires.

            Test both strands of the supply cable with a multimeter. To do this, connect the probes in ohmmeter mode to the output of the cord and to the contact of the plug. Repeat with the other wire.

            If no tester is available, use an indicator screwdriver to check. Connect the electric drill to the mains, find the phase on one of the contacts with the indicator. Flip the plug in the outlet and look for the phase again, if at least at one stage the network is not detected, the cable is faulty.
            Remove the failed cord by unscrewing the clamping bar and loosening the contacts of the block.

            Cable strands most often fray at bends.

            The reason for the loss of voltage can also be hidden in the plug of the power drill, especially if it shows signs of damage (eg bent plugs).

            If the cord is long enough, simply cut off the worn section. The short cable will have to be replaced with a new one.

            At the same time, it is desirable to change a hardened or cracked bushing at the cable entry point. It is not at all necessary to look for a “native” one, a suitable part is selected without any problems in any auto shop. For example, a protective cover for the electric drive rod of the door lock came up for this drill.

            Try on the rubber bush in the drill body and cut off the excess.

            Put the sheath on the cable, measure the stripping length on site.

            Cut the outer rubber sheath with wire cutters.

            Remove about 10 mm of insulation from the ends of the wires using the special tool.

            Check that the cord is working properly with a tester.

            Twist the strands of the cable, dip them in rosin and apply an even layer of solder.

            Wrap several layers of electrical tape around the cord anchorage.

            Connect the wires to the socket or directly to the button terminals, depending on your drill’s layout.

            Fasten both screws of the retaining collar.

            Lay the wires neatly, plug in the power drill and measure the voltage.

            Check the location of parts and conductors, assemble the housing and fasten with screws.

            Plug in the power drill and check that the tool is working.

            When carrying out repairs yourself, be safe. Plug the disassembled drill into the mains only to measure the voltage with the insulated probes of the tester. After that, immediately unplug the tool, avoiding electric shock.

            How to change the refrigerator power cord

            How to change the refrigerator power cord

            I don’t know how to open the black box on the back of the compressor.

            Those who know, tell me how to open it
            Up, loosening one screw that secures it. (if Danffos type) or by inserting a screwdriver, as indicated on the body (according to the ACC principle)

            may have a PHOTO. You have a refrigerator, a photo from you, believe us, we don’t need nafik, we already know the approach to any compressor. There are hints on the box on the compressor.
            3225

            And if that’s the case, then it’s not worth thinking about.

            ALEX62REF, how many seconds does it take you to do this? I cannot begin to describe this procedure, for I will laugh and fall again, perhaps. The child would already probably pull it off the latches with his hands, bending it and not breaking the locks, only disconnecting it from the network.

            How do I fix damage to the refrigerator cable?

            Hello. The rabbit chewed on the cable of the refrigerator. What is the best way to repair? 1. Remove the entire problematic section of the cable, twist it, apply electrical tape? 2. Remove the top layer of insulation, wrap all wires with electrical tape? Or is there another better option?

            • View profile
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            If correct, replace the whole.
            Or as a workaround “repair” as follows.
            If the brown wire is damaged in much the same way as the blue one (the degree of damage to the brown wire is not visible in the photo), then isolate the brown and blue wire damaged with PVC insulating tape separately, and wind it tighter and a little, then wrap the entire damaged area tighter, more can be done if this area will continue to lie on the floor.

            Rules for replacing electrical cords

            If the cord of any of your appliances, be it a food processor or kettle, is damaged, replace it. You don’t need to try to fix it. A cord with broken or partially melted insulation will always be a hazard. Even in the case when you honestly made repairs. This rule also applies to extension cords.

            IMPORTANT! In order to replace the cord, you will need to disassemble the device. After all, you need access to the cord terminals. You will also need a replacement cord. It must be the same as the existing one.

            If only the plug is damaged, you can replace it without changing the entire cord. However, the plug must withstand the current load of the device.

            Preliminary check of the cord

            We disassemble the device to remove the cord terminals. Disconnect the cord. First, it will need to be soldered with a soldering iron or a screwdriver, loosen the terminal screws.

            We twist the wires together, then fasten the multimeter leads to the prongs of the plug. When the cord is good, the display will read 0.

            And you also need to check twice: corrugate the cord in different places along its length and observe the indicators. If there are any fluctuations in the readings, then this is a sign that there are internal violations. So the cord needs to be replaced.

            IMPORTANT! The lion’s share of electrical cords in 14- or 16-gauge sizes. However, there are some high demand heaters that have 12 gauge cords.

            You probably won’t have to change the cord on your heavy duty 240V appliance. For example, on the stove. However, you can do this too. The cord you buy for your stove must be 6-gauge, 8-gauge, or 10-gauge. It must also be identical to the cord to be replaced.

            If the cord to be replaced has a grounding prong, you will also need a grounding prong on the new cord. In the case where the plug on an existing cord with a pair of prongs with slightly different sizes, then this means that the cord is polarized. It is necessary to check that the replacement cord is with the same type of plug.

            We carry out a phased replacement of the electric cord

            — Screwdrivers
            — Soldering iron
            — Silver solder
            — Multi-motor or hex wrenches
            – Household knife
            – A device that strips wires

            STEP ONE: disassemble the device

            Depending on what kind of device, you can access the cord terminals in different ways. To do this, remove the bottom or panel on the back wall. However, sometimes a more thorough disassembly is required. Be sure to look at the instruction manual for the device. You will definitely find it on the manufacturer’s website in the global network.

            IMPORTANT! Then you have to download the circuit diagram from there. Then you’ll know where everything goes when it’s time for reassembly. Other than the schematic, other tools that are needed for disassembly are a multi-driver or a hex wrench.

            STAGE TWO: disconnect the old cord

            We loosen the terminal screws with which the wires are connected with a screwdriver. If the wires are soldered, then you need to touch the hot soldering iron to each terminal. This is how the solder melts. After that, you need to remove the wire. The removed old cord of the device is discarded without regret.

            STEP THREE: prepare the new cord

            Determine which wire is hot, which is neutral, and which is ground. There are a couple of methods to determine this:

            – When the cord has a grounding prong on the plug and some of the wires are covered with insulation, the black wire is hot, the white wire is neutral, and the bare or green wire is grounded.

            – When the cord is not grounded but has a polarized plug, the neutral wire will have a ripple, texture, or white streak on the plastic insulating sheath. This wire leads to the wider of the two prongs on the cord plug. A hot wire leads to a narrower prong on the cord plug, which is not marked.

            STEP FOUR: Connect the hot wire to the brass terminal

            Feed the new wire into the terminal area and insulate the hot wire. When the terminals have screw connections, wrap the hot wire clockwise around the brass screw. And then, armed with a screwdriver, tighten the screw.

            IMPORTANT! When the terminals have solder joints, it is necessary to wrap or twist the wire around the brass terminal and solder it in place.

            STAGE FIVE: Connecting the neutral and ground wires

            Loosen the screw on the silver terminal, wrap the neutral wire clockwise around it and tighten it. When the cord has a ground wire, it is connected to the green terminal screw. When the connections are soldered, use a soldering iron to connect them.

            STAGE SIX: Finishing work

            Assembling the instrument. Connect it to the outlet and check.

            Power cord plug replacement

            The procedure is very similar to connecting a new cord to the device. It differs only in that it does not require dismantling of the device. Instead, you just need to disassemble the fork. To do this, loosen the screw or pull the core out of the outer sheath so that the screw terminals are exposed.

            Remove the plug core from the outer sheath. We insert the cord through the hole in the outer shell. And then we connect it to the screw terminals on the core of the plug.

            IMPORTANT! Connect the hot wire to the brass terminal on the core of the plug. If the screws are the same color, the hot tooth will be the narrower of the two.

            Connecting the neutral wire to the silver screw terminal. When the screws are the same color, the neutral tooth leads to the wider tooth. The ground wire must be attached to the green ground screw on the plug.

            All wires connected. The core should slide back into the outer sheath so that it can then be secured tightly. There are plugs that are held together with screws while others snap into place.

            IMPORTANT! Instrument check required. You need to make sure it works correctly.

            Types of cords and plugs

            — Fixtures and lamps have molded plastic cords.
            – Heaters typically have neoprene, cotton, or braided viscose cords.
            – Electric tools have rounded plastic cords.
            – Vacuum cleaners have ribbed plastic cords.

            IMPORTANT! When buying a new cord for your appliance, be sure to select the correct cord for the particular type of appliance.

            Three main types of plugs: self-terminating, screw-terminal and triprong.

            In lamps and small household appliances, self-disconnecting plugs are predominantly used. Clamped on the wires of the cord, the teeth make an automatic connection. But these plugs do not meet many national standards.

            The wires are attached to the screws inside the housing using screw terminal plugs.