How to bathtub refinishing: Bathtub Refinishing 101: Tackle This DIY Project in 7 Steps

Bathtub Refinishing 101: Tackle This DIY Project in 7 Steps

Open a window in the room closest to your bathroom and place a piece of cardboard inside that has a hole cut out to fit the hose. Run the hose under the plastic sheeting, into the next room and through the hole in the cardboard. (Sherkat needed a 25-foot hose to reach the window in the bedroom next to her bathroom.) Use painter’s tape to secure the cardboard to the window frame and the hose to the cardboard.

Step 2: Repair any chips or dings with epoxy putty

Follow the directions on the epoxy product. Once the putty dries, you’ll likely need to sand these spots down with fine sandpaper to ensure they’re fully blended.

Step 3: Clean and dry your tub thoroughly

It’s important to get the tub as sparkling as possible to ensure the paint will go on smoothly. Your weekly wipe down won’t do, you’ll want to deep clean before you embark on the refinishing process.

Step 4: Sand, clean, repeat

Since sanding can emit fine particles into the air, you’ll want to put on a respirator (or at least a high-quality mask such as a KN95) before starting this step. Use a sander, sanding block, or steel wool to buff the entire surface of the tub, which will help with adhesion. “You should buff and clean the surface two or three times for the best result,” Carpenter says. Each time you sand, remove residue with warm water, then use a tack cloth to wipe away any remaining residue as you dry the surface. When sanding is finished, some people opt to give their tub a second cleaning.

Step 5: Protect fixtures

Use painter’s tape to cover areas such as the faucet and drain. If your faucet or shower head tends to drip, tape a plastic cup to catch the water.

Step 6: Apply bathtub refinishing product

Put on your respirator and protective eyewear and turn on the fan. Spray or paint on your product of choice, following directions carefully. Note that you may need multiple coats, especially if your tub is heavily stained or a dark color. If you’re using a roller with a short nap, remove fuzz so it doesn’t mix in with your product. “Use a piece of painter’s tape to pull off any loose bits of fibers from the roller,” Wilson says. You can also use small foam paint brushes for curves or hard-to-reach areas.

Once you’re finished, you’ll need to let it dry fully between coats and should wait a few days before bathing in the tub. “Let the new glaze dry for at least 72 hours, and don’t touch the tub until it fully dries,” Carpenter warns. Wait to do any caulking until after the tub-refinishing products have dried.

Step 7: Maintain your tub

Consult instructions for recommendations on caring for your tub, but keep in mind that you’ll likely want to avoid vigorous scrubbing or abrasive cleaners after a bathtub resurfacing. “I use Lysol multi surface cleaner, but there are probably some harsher cleaners that you won’t be able to use,” Wilson says.

Before you start dreaming of leisurely soaks, here are a few other things to keep in mind about the refinishing process.

• When it comes to supplies, round up. Remember that you’ll probably need more materials than you’d expect. “To avoid running out of paint or other stuff mid-project, it’s a good idea to buy more than you think, and you can always return unused and unopened products later,” Sherkat says.
• Don’t underestimate the fumes. It’s best to do this project during the warmer months so you can keep windows open and have a relocation plan for your crew. “There will be an intense smell for six-plus hours after the tub is painted, so wear a quality mask and have family members leave the house while the project is being done and for several hours afterward,” Wilson says.
• Watch out for humidity. Although warm temperatures are ideal, you also want to steer clear of humid periods, when the paint or glaze will take longer to cure.

How to Refinish a Bathtub With a DIY Kit: 11 Easy Steps

Refresh Your Bathtub Without Hiring a Pro

By

Lee Wallender

Lee Wallender

Lee has over two decades of hands-on experience remodeling, fixing, and improving homes, and has been providing home improvement advice for over 13 years.

Learn more about The Spruce’s
Editorial Process

Updated on 07/07/23

The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

Project Overview

Bathtub refinishing is used to give your bathtub a facelift by painting a tough epoxy coating over the existing enamel, acrylic, or fiberglass tub surface. It’s not super expensive when considering other options like replacing the tub. It’s also relatively easy to do using a do-it-yourself kit instead of hiring a professional. Many DIY kits include epoxy resin with hardener, etching powder, latex gloves, steel wool, brush, cleaning solution, cleaner or thinner, and safety goggles. The epoxy coating comes in white but can be tinted (tint not included).

Read on to learn how to refinish a bathtub on your own and find out when it’s best to call a professional to do it for you.

When to Refinish a Bathtub

If your bathtub has seen better days but remains in good structural condition, consider refinishing it to remove stains or scratches or to get rid of an outdated color. If you do it yourself, the cost of materials is about $150 with a kit. However, the national average price when hiring professional help is about $500 for recoating a tub, ranging from $330-$630, according to HomeAdvisor.

The other option is to replace the tub. The national average is about $3,500 to get a new tub and have it installed. Replacement is pricier but recommended when your tub leaks or has a mold or mildew problem that can’t be fixed.

Indicators that you should keep your tub and refinish it include:

• The tub is in good condition: Even if your bathtub looks dingy, stained, severely rusted, or has cracks, it can be fixed and recoated to look new.
• The bathroom layout is ideal: If you like how everything lays out and don’t want to change much beyond the aesthetics of the tub, resurfacing is your best bet. A new tub will likely require removing or replacing flooring, trim, surrounds, or plumbing.
• The tub is an antique and worth keeping: Refinishing allows you to preserve an older design, such as a clawfoot tub, that adds character to a bathroom.  
• The tub is heavy (cast iron) and would be difficult to remove: When removing a tub, the original tub usually has to be cut into pieces to fit through the bathroom door.

Before You Begin

The key to a good DIY result is thorough cleaning and preparation of the surfaces and following the manufacturer’s instructions strictly. Protect the surrounding area, including the tile, flooring, and other elements, by masking off and using a dropcloth before, during, and as the resin coating dries.

Safety Considerations

Modern bathtub refinishing kits are often sold as “odorless” products that need no ventilation, but this is an overly optimistic view. The best refinishing products are two-part mixtures that involve mixing an epoxy resin with a chemical hardener, which inevitably produces fumes. Ventilate the space thoroughly and run the bathroom exhaust fan while working. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding using breathing protection or a respirator—especially during the preparation stage when sanding the existing tub.

The process described below summarizes the steps required for most two-part bathtub refinishing products. However, read the manufacturer’s directions carefully for specific details on how to use the product.

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Equipment / Tools

• Screwdriver
• Putty knife
• Abrasive pad
• Rubber gloves
• Breathing protection
• Bucket
• Sponge
• Paint roller with roller cover
• Sponge paintbrush
• Roller tray
• Caulk gun

Materials

• Chemical caulk remover
• Bleach
• Abrasive cleanser
• Dropcloth
• Painter’s tape
• #400 to #600 wet/dry sandpaper
• Paper towels
• Tack cloth
• Tub-and-tile caulk
• Bathtub refinishing kit

Click Play to Learn How to Refinish a Bathtub

1. Remove Hardware

   Where possible, remove escutcheons and cover plates from plumbing fixtures. Bathtub spouts can be temporarily unscrewed and removed during refinishing. Clean away any dirt or caulk residue from openings in the bathtub using a putty knife.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

2. Clean the Bathtub

   Clean the tub thoroughly and remove all caulking from the joints around the tub. If necessary, use a chemical caulk remover to remove all traces of caulk from the surfaces.

   Use bleach to clean away any mildew stains, then scrub the entire tub thoroughly with an abrasive cleanser or with LimeAway applied with an abrasive pad. Rinse thoroughly with clear water.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

3. Mask Off Areas Around the Tub

   Use dropcloths and painter’s tape to mask off floors and walls around the tub. The epoxy coating will be hard to remove, so guard against drops and spills.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

4. Ventilate the Space

   The etching, sanding, and coating operation will create dust and fumes. In addition to the fumes of the epoxy product, simple sanding can create fiberglass dust that shouldn’t be inhaled. Before beginning work, open windows, turn on the exhaust fan or set up portable fans to improve ventilation in the space. It’s also a good idea to wear breathing protection or whatever respiratory equipment the manufacturer recommends.

   The Spruce / Letícia Almeida

5. Etch the Tub Surfaces

   If the kit includes an etching powder, apply it to the tub’s surface with water and scrub the surfaces with an abrasive pad. The etching powder helps dull the finish so the new coating will adhere. Rinse the tub thoroughly with clear water.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

6. Sand the Tub

   Sand the tub with #400 or #600 with wet/dry sandpaper while still wet to further roughen the surfaces. Make sure to roughen all corners and edges of the tub; this is a critical step to ensure the epoxy coating will adhere without later peeling. Thorough sanding is especially important if the kit does not include an etching powder. Rinse the tub and let it dry.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

7. Wipe Down the Bathtub

   Wipe the tub with paper towels to ensure it is completely dry, then wipe with a tack cloth to remove any dust or paper residue.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

8. Prime the Surfaces

   If the kit includes a primer, apply it to the bathtub surfaces. Apply the primer with a roller and foam brush, and let it dry as directed.

   Some refinishers are self-priming and do not require a separate prime coat. Do not prime bathtub surfaces with ordinary commercial paint primer; use only the primer included in the kit you buy.

   Tip

   Clean the roller cover before applying primer or epoxy coating to avoid leaving lint on the bathtub surfaces. An excellent way to do this is using sticky tape to remove loose lint from the roller cover.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

9. Mix the Epoxy Coating

   Blend the hardener or catalyst into the epoxy resin, as directed by the label instructions. You will now need to work steadily as epoxy coatings gradually harden once mixed. The product label usually tells you how much working time (“open time”) you have, but you should be prepared to coat the entire tub in one working session.

   The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

10. Apply the Coating

    Begin applying the coating to the sides of the tub with a roller. Alternate between vertical and horizontal strokes to prevent drips and roller ridges. Move to the tub deck (horizontal surfaces), then roll the bottom. Finish the edges as needed with a sponge brush.

    Apply a second coat of coating as directed by the label instructions. Some products require immediate recoating, while others may suggest one or two hours of drying time before applying the second coating.

    Let the final coat dry and cure, as directed by the label. Some products require a full two days of cure time; others may take as long as three days. Keep the area well-ventilated for at least the first day of curing.

    The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

11. Caulk and Reinstall Hardware

    Seal the tub’s joints with fresh silicone caulk and let it cure overnight. Reinstall the faucet hardware. Your refinished bathtub is now ready to use.

    The Spruce / Liz Moskowitz

    Tip

    When cleaning a resurfaced tub, use non-abrasive cleaners, such as mild dish soap, and rinse thoroughly.

When to Call a Professional

DIY refinishing can be a perfect temporary solution to a worn, unattractive tub. Still, it may not last more than five years before a new application is needed. Most people consider DIY refinishing a stop-gap until a complete bathtub replacement is practical. If your refinished tub must have an extraordinarily smooth and durable finish, it’s best to hire a professional service to perform the refinishing.

Professional tub refinishers often market their process as “reglazing.” Their specific steps may differ somewhat, but the basic process is more or less standard. The methods professionals use are similar to that of DIY kits, but the pros typically spend a lot of time repairing chips and cracks—often for an additional fee. Further, the etching process may be done with an acidic solution rather than an abrasive powder, and there is almost always a primer coat applied before the refinisher applies several coats of epoxy coating—usually with a sprayer rather than a roller and brush. The technician may return a few days later to buff the surface to a shiny finish.

The result is a finish that is usually better than that achieved by DIYers. However, don’t expect any refinishing job—even by pros—to be as good as a new bathtub.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

1. How Much Does Bathtub Refinishing Cost? HomeAdvisor.

How to repair a bathtub with your own hands

When a cast-iron bathtub began to lose its whiteness, roughness and grayness began to appear in some places, or the surface became covered with cracks, chips formed, then the question rightly arises – how to repair a bathtub so as not to replace it with a new one.

Such a method exists, and more than one. Let’s consider this issue in more detail.

Contents

1. DIY bath repair features
2. Acrylic bath insert
3. Stakryl bathtub
4. Preparation and direct application of the bathtub composition
5. Care of the restored bathtub

Do-it-yourself bathtub repair features

One of the methods of restoration baths to their original appearance is an attempt to repair the bath with their own hands. This procedure is quite painstaking and time-consuming. If you follow all the rules when enameling bathtubs, you can achieve an excellent result, and the renovated bathroom will last at least a couple more years.

Such a short service life of the coating is due to the fact that in production the enamel is hardened or applied to a hot bath. At home, enameling is more like painting. But anyway, it is this method that helps the owners out if, for example, you just need to delay the time to purchase a new product.

Initially, the bath must be prepared by degreasing and cleaning its surface. This is done simply, and the more time-consuming process will be further grinding of the surface with a grinding wheel or sandpaper. Next, it is necessary to apply enamel in two layers, while taking breaks between applying layers of 15 minutes.

Tip!

Bathtub restoration – chipping can be repaired using nitro enamel, super cement glue or BF-25 glue with dry whitewash. But it is better that this type of work is performed by a master.

Currently, there are three more methods of bathtub restoration:

1. Repair of old bathtubs with a special polymer composition using a brush. Made by hand by a master. Most often, the warranty for this type of repair is one year, but the coating can last up to 3 years.
2. Acrylic bath insert (bath in the bathroom).
3. Stakryl filling bath.

Let’s analyze the second and third methods in more detail.

Acrylic Bath Liner

This method is the most costly way to restore a bathtub, but also the most durable. After this type of restoration, the bath can be used for another 15 years, of course, if proper care is provided.

Tip!

Spalled tubs can also be repaired in this way.

Installing the acrylic liner

When restoring a bathtub with an acrylic liner, the specialist performs the following work:

• Removing the binding.
• Bath preparation.
• Edge cutting.
• Marking the holes and fitting the insert.
• Application of 2-component foam around the perimeter of the product and sealant in the area of ​​the drain.
• Direct liner installation.
• Mounting the piping and filling the tub with water.

During the day, the bath must be left filled, then the water is drained and the product can be used.

Filled bathtub – Stacryl

This method of bathtub restoration is not as expensive as repairing a steel bathtub with an acrylic liner. It takes no more than six hours of continuous work, but the result is worth it.

Bathtub preparation steps for poured, liquid acrylic or glazing:

• Bathtub trims must be removed.
• The surface of the bath must be thoroughly prepared. The preparatory work is very similar to the work of enameling a bathtub. Initially, a means is applied to the bath to eliminate plaque and rust. It is important to read the instructions for the selected tool to work with it.
• Next, the surface of the tub must be sanded to a matt finish.

Preparing the bath for restoration

• Clean the bath again with pemolux. Between cleanings, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the bath with a large volume of water.
• Dry the bath. For additional degreasing, it can be treated with Thinner 646.

For reference. Bath refurbishment specialists prepare the surface of the bath a little differently. Before stripping, they carefully examine the surface and only then (depending on the condition of the product) begin to clean the bath, using various means.

There is no need to describe all the nuances, because there are a lot of them. For this reason, the simplest surface preparation method is described.

Preparation and direct application of the pouring bath composition

Bath before and after restoration

The pouring bath enamel consists of two components – a hardener and a base. To dilute the material, you need to add a hardener to the container with the base and mix thoroughly. You need to mix for about 5-10 minutes. Next, you need to let the finished mixture brew for another 10 minutes and mix thoroughly again.

Renovating an old bathtub is generally easy. First you need to pour a strip of the mixture along the side and introduce the mixture under the tile or other finishing material with a spatula, depending on how the walls of the bathroom are finished. Then the remaining solution must be applied in a spiral over the entire surface of the bath.

Refurbished bathtub care

Bathtub care must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

1. Various hard scouring pads can damage the finish. It is also impossible to use acid-containing products, for example, Sanoks.
2. Do not clean the bathtub with cleaning products that are designed for cleaning tiles and toilet bowls, as they contain various abrasive substances and acids. As a result of exposure to these drugs, the enamel is quickly destroyed, the bath rusts and turns yellow.
3. Water must not accumulate in the bathroom for a long time, it must drain freely. It is necessary to keep the bathtub dry when not in use.
4. Faucets and showers must be in good working order, otherwise water leaks will cause rust and yellow indelible deposits.
5. It is also not recommended to soak colored laundry in the bath.
6. The coating can be destroyed if metal bowls are placed in the bath. If you can’t do without it, then you need to put a wooden pallet or soft rags under the basin.

Tip!

The bathroom will last longer if there is not a very sharp temperature contrast, in other words, it is not recommended to start cold and then hot water.

As a result of this impact, cracks and chips appear on the bath.

Bath restoration is always much cheaper than buying a new one. Therefore, carefully following our advice, feel free to take on the restoration of the coating of the old bath.

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How to renovate a bathtub yourself?

How to renovate a bathtub yourself?

Living in your apartment for a long time, doing housework, various household issues, you eventually notice that the bath is no longer so snow-white and no cleaning agent can give it its former whiteness.

Contents

1

How to install the acrylic insert?

2

New bathroom enamel

3

Restoration with Liquid Acrylic

Today you can restore your bath in a short time, it is not necessary to change it immediately.

The most common way is to install acrylic liners (another name for bathtub in bathtub). You can also cover the bathtub with new enamel, or you can cover the bathtub with liquid acrylic, this is a modern fashionable way.

1

How to Install the Acrylic Liner – Step by Step

Acrylic Liner is one of the most common ways to refurbish bathtubs. In fact, this is a new bathtub, it is made of Austrian acrylic. There is only one difference from the new acrylic bathtub, which is that here your old bathtub is used as a power frame, instead of epoxy.

Installing the acrylic liner

This technology has many advantages:

• Here the qualities of both acrylic and metal baths are combined. In addition, thanks to the effect of a thermos in this bath, the water cools down much longer.
• This method is much cheaper than installing a new bathtub and it takes 1.5-2 hours for everything, the bathroom after this procedure does not require repair. The new liner will last another 15-20 years, and if you want, you can order it not in white, but in some other color.

Disadvantages:

• Despite all its advantages, this method of bath restoration has one drawback, such liners are only available in standard sizes.

2

Re-enamelling the bathroom

This is a well-known method that has long been proven by time. This method does not require any installation work. In this case, the entire surface is simply cleaned of dirt and deposits, primer is applied, and then several layers of enamel are applied.

Advantages of this method:

• This procedure also does not take much time, and the cost of this work is cheaper than installing an acrylic liner or a bulk bath, and of course much cheaper than installing a new cast iron one.

Disadvantages:

• But there is one “but”, the new coating will last less than the one that was originally applied at the factory. but you can cover the new enamel as much as you like.

3

Bathtub restoration with Liquid Acrylic

Application of Liquid Acrylic

This is the youngest method of restoration. The bath is covered with liquid acrylic, liquid acrylic is also called “filling bath” or “glass”. This is a modern domestic development. here installation work is also not required. In this case, a brush is not required for coating. The coating is poured along the sides of the bath, slowly flowing down, all cracks and chips are filled, the bath takes on a perfectly even appearance.

After the coating dries (1-4 days depending on the brand of glass), you get a unique acrylic liner made to the size and shape of your bathtub, which has all the same characteristics. Properly caring for such a bathroom, it will serve you up to 15 years.