Price hardwood flooring: Hardwood Flooring Installation | 2022 Cost Guide
Hardwood Flooring Installation | 2022 Cost Guide
Hardwood Flooring Installation
It’s hard to beat the natural beauty and allure of hardwood flooring. Hardwood flooring comes in a wide range of colors, grain patterns, plank sizes and wood species. It is typically easy to find a style that adds classic appeal to your home’s interior.
Hardwood floor colors span the spectrum from dark oak and hickory to reddish cherrywood to light ash, pine and pale birch. In addition to those species, wood flooring is often made from maple, walnut, beech, bamboo, teak and many other wood types. This is why choosing the right floors for your home can be a formidable task.
Modernize created this guide to help homeowners learn more about the pros and cons of hardwood flooring, where it works best (and where it does not), and how to find a hardwood flooring contractor in your area. Keep reading to learn why hardwood floors are a popular choice for both new construction and remodeling projects.
How Much Does Hardwood Flooring Cost?
Hardwood Flooring Installation
Hardwood is one of the most popular flooring options for kitchens and living rooms
The cost of your flooring installation will vary depending on the type of hardwood planks you choose. Real hardwood planks can cost as much as $12 or more per square foot. Higher-end hardwood options, such as imported walnut and mahogany, often cost more than $12 per square foot.
Hardwood type | Cost per square foot | Quality |
---|---|---|
Maple | $6.50 to $11 | Basic |
Pine | $4.50 to $6.50 | Basic |
Ash | $9 to $13 | Mid-range |
Cherrywood | $5 to $15 | Mid-range |
Imported mahogany | $8 to $18 | High end |
Imported walnut | $11 to $20 | High end |
Keep in mind that engineered wood flooring is an option if you like the look of hardwood but have a smaller budget to work with. Engineered wood looks and feels much like real hardwood. Lower-end engineered hardwood can cost as little as $3 per square foot.
7 Factors to Consider Before Installing Hardwood Floors
If the time has come to replace worn or outdated flooring in your home, there are many reasons to consider hardwood over other flooring materials. There are so many options available – it’s important to choose the right kind of hardwood flooring for your needs. Here are some factors to consider:
- Design. Hardwood flooring offers nearly limitless design options since wood species vary by color, grain pattern and texture. Different types of finishes also can compliment the wood’s natural luster.
- Plank Size. Hardwood planks vary in width, and that size has a tremendous impact on the visual appearance of the flooring once it’s installed. Traditionally, floor planks were milled to 3-inch widths, but wider widths such as 6, 8, 10 and 12 inches are more commonplace today. Wider planks have fewer seams and can make small rooms and narrow hallways appear more spacious.
- Solid or Engineered. Solid hardwood planks are milled from single pieces of wood and have a tongue on one edge and a groove on the other. They are either prefinished or sanded, stained and finished on site after installation, and they can be sanded and refinished multiple times if necessary. Engineered hardwood, meanwhile, is made by gluing together alternating layers of plywood or fiberboard underneath a hardwood veneer. The alternating layers make these planks much more dimensionally stable. They will not contract or expand. However, the thin hardwood veneer does not lend itself to sanding and refinishing.
- Wood Species. There are many types of domestics trees harvested for wood flooring. However, the most common include oak, hickory, maple, ash, birch, cherry and walnut. Each species has different qualities and characteristics such as appearance, grain and color.
- Finish. Plank flooring can be finished in a clear gloss with high or low sheen, or it can be distressed by hand scraping or wire brushing, techniques that will change the overall appearance of the floor.
- Durability. Wood’s hardness is rated by an industry standard called the Janka Hardness Test – the amount of force needed to mechanically embed a steel ball into the wood. Red oak, at 1290 on the Janka Hardness Scale, is the industry median. Ash (1320), maple (1450), and hickory (1820) exceed that mark. Brazillian cherry is the hardest flooring on the market at 2350 on the Janka Hardness Scale.
- Cost. Hardwood flooring can be either moderately expensive or extremely pricey depending on the species you choose. Domestic hardwoods tend to be less costly than imported hardwoods. Installation, meanwhile, usually varies by the complexity of the job. For instance, prefinished planks are typically easier to install than unfinished planks that are completed onsite.
Discuss these factors with a flooring contractor prior to beginning your new project to help ensure you stay within budget and fully enjoy the final results.
Types of Hardwood
When choosing between types of hardwood, or hardwood species, there are a few factors to consider. In addition to the color and appearance you desire, it is also important to think about cost, quality, and hardness. Hardness can be measured by determining the hardwood’s place on the Janka Hardness Scale. The higher the rating on the scale, the more durable and resistant to dents and wear-and-tear the hardwood will be.
Here are a few options when it comes to hardwood types for you to choose from.
Hardwood Type | Color | Hardness |
---|---|---|
White oak | Light beige | 1360 lbf |
Teak | Rich brown | 1155 lbf |
Ash | Creamy beige | 1320 lbf |
Black walnut | Dark brown | 1010 lbf |
Cherrywood | Light reddish brown | 950 lbf |
Brazilian cherry | Deep reddish brown | 2350 lbf |
Mahogany | Very deep reddish brown | 800 lbf |
Ebony | Almost black | 3220 lbf |
Advantages
In addition to style and beauty, hardwood floors offer many benefits for homeowners. These include:
- Easy to clean. Like concrete floors, hardwood floors are easy to maintain. Sweeping or vacuuming removes daily dust and dander, while regular damp mopping with a wood floor cleaner can remove any built-up grime or stains. Some hardwood flooring shows streaks, so you may have to use a dry towel after mopping.
- Long-Lasting. We mentioned above about hardwood’s durability ratings. There’s a reason why many homes on state historic registers still have their original flooring – hardwood lasts. To achieve the optimal lifespan, make sure to care for your hardwood floors routinely.
- Hypoallergenic. Wood doesn’t trap dust, dirt, dander and similar allergens. So long as you routinely clean your floors, you can enjoy fewer allergens present in your home.
- Value. Wood floors are an excellent investment. On average, homeowners can expect to recover between 70 to 80 percent of their original investment, as well as appeal to a wider range of potential buyers during resale.
- Aesthetics. Hardwood flooring’s visual appearance seamlessly blends into both traditional and modern design schemes.
Disadvantages
Hardwood does have some potential drawbacks to keep in mind. A few disadvantages include:
- Cost. Exotic wood species, while beautiful, can make your flooring renovation budget soar. Likewise with top-quality domestic hardwoods. Natural hardwood planks also are very labor-intensive to install, which further escalates the total cost of new hardwood flooring.
- Noise. Hardwood doesn’t dampen ambient noise like other flooring options. Area rugs can help improve a room’s acoustics.
- Damage. Even the hardest wood flooring is susceptible to scuffs, scratches, dings and dents, especially in high-traffic areas. It is also prone to water damage. You may have to refinish your hardwood flooring down the road.
- Limited Usage. Hardwood floors are a natural fit for most areas of the home. Although hardwood can be installed in kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms, you should pay heed to the fact that wood and water don’t mix. Water leaking or spilled from bathtubs, showers, toilets, sinks, dishwashers and washing machines will likely cause unsightly buckling and warping in your hardwood floors over time. Also, replacing even one or two damaged planks is a difficult repair job.
Pre-Finished vs. Unfinished Hardwood Planks
When choosing hardwood for your flooring installation, you will have the choice of either pre-finished or unfinished hardwood planks. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages.
Pre-finished Hardwood
Pre-finished hardwood planks are stained and sealed prior to being installed in your home. Any type of hardwood species can be pre-finished. Pre-finished hardwood planks allow for an easier, less messy, and less smelly installation process. It also comes with a more durable surface that is scratch and stain resistant, and can be refinished when necessary. On the downside, pre-finished hardwood comes in less design options and typically costs more than unfinished hardwood.
Unfinished Hardwood
Unfinished hardwood planks will arrive to your home in their natural form, free of any sealant or finishes. You might want to choose unfinished hardwood if you want a custom stain or finishing applied. Typically, unfinished hardwood is sanded and then sealed with protective finishing in your home during the installation process.
Unfinished hardwood planks may be desirable to you if you prefer the beautiful seamless look of no lines between hardwood boards. This will result in a flat flooring featuring planks that blend well. On the other hand, unfinished hardwood installations take longer to complete and are also a bit messier, since sealing and finishing happens in your home.
How to Find Local Hardwood Professionals
Wood flooring is one the most beautiful coverings you can install in your home. However, due to the incredible range of products available, choosing the right hardwood flooring can be intimidating.
Modernize can put you in touch with great flooring contractors in your area that can help you pick out the perfect hardwood for your flooring renovation project and budget, as well as get the installation done correctly.
Solid Hardwood Flooring Price Guide
Solid hardwood floors are more affordable than many realize, which makes them one of the most popular types of floor installed in homes today. The biggest variables in what you pay for a new hardwood floor are int he type of wood you choose and of course, the quality of the installation.
Another factor to consider when you have solid hardwood floors installed in your home, is that you are likely going to be put out into a hotel for a few days during the finishing process. So when you factor your solid hardwood floor prices, add in a few overnight stays at a friend or a local hotel.
In this solid hardwood flooring guide, we’re going to look at prices. If you aren’t ready, take a look at the complete solid hardwood floor buying guide, installation guide or if you already decided on solid hardwood, learn about care and maintenance of this flooring.
The following prices in this guide are approximate, for a more accurate quote please go ahead and request free estimates from local professionals in your area by CLICKING HERE.
Average Price Range for Solid Hardwood Flooring
- $2 per square foot, up to about $5 per square foot for unfinished domestic hardwoods. Exotic and imported woods may cost more.
- Pre-finished solid wood flooring prices start at about $4 and can cost as much as $12 per square foot, but most is found in the $4-$10 per square foot price range.
Installation of solid hardwood flooring averages $3-$4 per square foot for both unfinished and prefinished wood. Most customers who buy unfinished floors plan to do the finish work themselves to save money. If you choose to have them finished by home flooring pros, it will cost up to $2 per square foot. You’ll probably save money by purchasing prefinished flooring. $3-$4 per square foot is just the average cost to install hardwood flooring, check out our new hardwood installation price guide for a more in-depth analysis of installation prices.
Factors in Determining the Total Cost
The grade of the wood is a major factor in cost. Here are the grades most often used, from most expensive to least expensive, and what they mean:
- Clear Grade: Uniform color, mostly free of knots and blemishes. Longer board lengths.
- Select & Better: Uniform color, very few knots or blemishes. Longer board lengths. Most hardwood sold is Select & Better.
- Select or Exclusive: Color varies somewhat from board to board. A few more blemishes and knots are visible. This is a prefinished wood term. The corresponding term for unfinished wood is #1 Common. Both have shorter board lengths.
- Traditional, Antique or Character: Lots of natural character and variance in color. Pinholes and knots are possible. Shorter board lengths. This is a prefinished wood flooring term. The corresponding unfinished wood flooring term is #2 Common or Rustic.
- Tavern or Cabin: The cheapest hardwood flooring shows lots of character, wood color variance, knots and blemishes. Boards average just 24” in length.
The specie of wood will make a difference too. Here is a price list for most of the woods currently in use. Prices are listed per square foot for prefinished wood. Unfinished wood is usually $1-$2.50 less per square foot.
- Sakura: $8-$12
- Kempas: $8-$11
- Tigerwood: $8-$11
- Teak: $7-$10
- Brazilian Cherrywood: $7-$10
- American Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Cherry, Ash, etc.): $4.50-$8
There are a few factors that affect hardwood floor installation cost, but most won’t dramatically change the written estimates you receive. The smaller the room, the more it may cost per square foot. A lot of complicated trimming around floor vents and other obstacles may raise the price too.
Saving Money on Solid Hardwood Flooring
Shop around for the best prices. There are quite a few online dealers that sell a wide range of unfinished and prefinished wood floors. Even if you plan to buy from a local store such as a large chain home improvement store, you can shop prices online. It saves time and gas money.
You’ll save money on unfinished wood if you’re willing to finish the floors yourself. And if you choose wood in a lesser grade, prices will be lower.
The best way to save money on installation is to get at least 3 quotes from local hardwood flooring installers. There is no cost or obligation for using online services that provide quotes from prescreened, qualified hardwood flooring installation contractors. When contractors know that they are competing for the job you’ll get the best prices.
Solid Hardwood Pricing FAQs
Q: Can unused hardwood flooring be returned?
A: If the box has not been opened, it usually can be returned. Keep in mind, having a small supply of extra pieces on hand can save hassle later if you need to replace a few boards.
Q: Is it cheaper to buy solid wood flooring online?
A: You’ll often find lower prices online, but not always. It’s worth a look. If you buy online, factor in shipping costs if they apply. If you buy too much, returning what you don’t need to an online seller can be costly if you have to pay shipping.
Q: How much does hardwood floor refinishing cost?
A: Hardwood floors need to be refinished every 7-20 years depending on the quality of the flooring and how heavily it is used. When it needs refinishing, you’ll pay $2-$4 for the job.
The cost of solid hardwood flooring is competitively priced with fine carpeting, cork and bamboo, and it is less expensive than most tile and stone flooring. See the other hardwood flooring guides on this site which general information, installation procedures and how to maintain your floors.
Related Pages
Installing Hardwood Floors on a Budget
Of all the flooring options, hardwood is arguably the most coveted among homeowners. Sleek, durable and breathable, hardwood flooring makes a statement in any room. Unfortunately, one peek at the costs of professional installation might make you push hardwood flooring to the bottom of your home improvement wish list – but it doesn’t have to.
If you’re tired of letting installation prices scare you away from your glossy, hardwood dreams, it’s time to take the nail gun into your own hands. Read on to learn how to save money by going the DIY route for buying and installing hardwood floors.
How to Choose the Right Hardwood Flooring
Types of Hardwood Flooring
Before starting your project, it’s important to be familiar with the different types of hardwood flooring, solid and engineered hardwood. While similar in look, these types vary by composition, price and moisture resistance.
Solid Hardwood
As the name implies, solid hardwood flooring is made of pure, solid wood. Each board is a single piece of wood that is about three quarters of an inch thick. “Solid hardwood floors are very durable,” says Tom Ory, owner of Enterprise Wood Products.
“Solid hardwood pricing varies depending on species and finishes, but when you factor in their durability, they are definitely a great purchase,” says Ory. “It is also known that having solid hardwood flooring in your home will increase its value, making it an investment as well.”
With good maintenance, solid hardwood can last for over 100 years, and should be sanded and refinished about once every ten years.
Engineered Hardwood
Engineered hardwood boards are made up of layered wood and plywood. The top and bottom of the boards are thin layers of solid wood, but between them lies a high-quality plywood base.
Engineered wood is typically less expensive than solid hardwood. Some premium engineered flooring can have added durability finishes or higher quality core layers, which can cost more than lower-end solid hardwood options.
The benefit of engineered hardwood is that it is less sensitive to moisture and easy to use in a DIY hardwood installation, saving you money on labor costs.
Solid Versus Engineered Hardwood – What’s the Difference?
“The main difference between engineered hardwood floors and solid hardwood floors is their construction. Additionally, solid hardwood floors are greatly affected by temperature and humidity. In the dry winter, hardwood floors will shrink, and in summer they will expand. If humidity is an issue where you live, engineered hardwood might be the better option as it doesn’t expand and contract nearly as much. Also, engineered wood is more resistant to spills and mold from moisture creeping under the planks.”
Kristin Warner | Floor Critics
Types of Hardwood Flooring Installation
While there are many methods of hardwood floor installation to choose from, simplicity is key if you’re installing the flooring yourself. These are the two most popular DIY installation designs for hardwood flooring:
Click-Lock: This design is incredibly easy to install, relative to other options. As its name suggests, the end joints are designed to click and lock together without the help of adhesives, which helps your flooring joints hold tightly together.
Tongue and Groove: While this style is designed the same as click-lock, the end joints for tongue and groove flooring do not lock, so you’ll need to nail them down and/or use adhesive to glue the pieces together.
Hardwood Floor Installation Tip: Do Not Glue Click-Lock Flooring
Keep in mind that click-lock flooring should not be glued together with tongue and groove adhesive. Adding glue to click-lock joints doesn’t allow the boards enough room to expand and contract, which can lead to buckling and other problems. Only use adhesive for tongue and groove joints.
Hardwood Floor Installation Costs
Hardwood flooring costs can vary depending on a wide variety of factors, including wood type, finish, board thickness, grain quality, demand and design type. In addition, homeowners going the DIY route should take into consideration the cost of tools they’ll need to buy or rent when budgeting for the project. We’ve broken down the average costs of materials and installation by types of hardwood flooring:
Breaking Down Hardwood Flooring Costs
Unfinished Hardwood Flooring Costs
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost with Installation (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|---|
Oak | $3-$9 | $9-$17 | $1,200 – $3,600 | $3,600 – $6,800 |
Cherry | $3-$8 | $9-$16 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Hickory | $3-$7 | $9-$15 | $1,200 – $2,800 | $3,600 – $6,000 |
Maple | $3-$6 | $9-$14 | $1,200 – $2,400 | $3,600 – $5,600 |
Birch | $2-$5 | $8-$13 | $800 – $2,000 | $3,200 – $5,200 |
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|
Oak | $3-$9 | $1,200 – $3,600 | $3,600 – $6,800 |
Cherry | $3-$8 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Hickory | $3-$7 | $1,200 – $2,800 | $3,600 – $6,000 |
Maple | $3-$6 | $1,200 – $2,400 | $3,600 – $5,600 |
Birch | $2-$5 | $800 – $2,000 | $3,200 – $5,200 |
Finished Hardwood Flooring Costs
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost with Installation (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|---|
Oak | $3-$9 | $9-$17 | $1,200 – $3,600 | $3,600 – $6,800 |
Cherry | $4-$9 | $10-$17 | $1,600 – $3,600 | $4,000 – $6,800 |
Hickory | $4-$8 | $10-$16 | $1,600 – $3,200 | $4,000 – $3,200 |
Maple | $4-$9 | $10-$17 | $1,600 – $3,600 | $4,000 – $6,800 |
Birch | $3-$8 | $9-$16 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|
Oak | $3-$9 | $1,200 – $3,600 | $3,600 – $6,800 |
Cherry | $4-$9 | $1,600 – $3,600 | $4,000 – $6,800 |
Hickory | $4-$8 | $1,600 – $3,200 | $4,000 – $3,200 |
Maple | $4-$9 | $1,600 – $3,600 | $4,000 – $6,800 |
Birch | $3-$8 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Engineered Hardwood Flooring Costs
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost with Installation (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|---|
Oak ♦ | $2-$6 | $8-$14 | $800 – $2,400 | $3,200 – $5,600 |
Cherry | $3-$8 | $9-$16 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Hickory | $3-$15 | $11-$23 | $2,000 – $6,000 | $4,400 – $9,200 |
Maple | $4-$7 | $10-$15 | $1,600 – $2,800 | $4,000 – $6,000 |
Birch | $3-$8 | $9-$16 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,200 – $3,600 |
Flooring Material | Cost of Wood (per sq. ft) |
Cost for DIY Installation (400 sq. ft) |
Cost for Professional Installation (400 sq. ft) |
---|---|---|---|
Oak ♦ | $2-$6 | $800 – $2,400 | $3,200 – $5,600 |
Cherry | $3-$8 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,600 – $6,400 |
Hickory | $3-$15 | $2,000 – $6,000 | $4,400 – $9,200 |
Maple | $4-$7 | $1,600 – $2,800 | $4,000 – $6,000 |
Birch | $3-$8 | $1,200 – $3,200 | $3,200 – $3,600 |
♦ = price performer
“Once you pick a species, you can then determine if you want to keep the floor natural with just a clear finish or add some color by staining it. You will also need to determine what widths you want your flooring to be. Some people prefer a random width pattern while others like their flooring to be all one width.”
Tom Ory | Enterprise Wood Products
Tips for Buying Hardwood Flooring:
- On average, engineered hardwood is less expensive than solid hardwood.
- Although solid wood can be refinished more over its lifespan, engineered is much less sensitive to moisture.
- For installations in your basement or over concrete, you cannot use solid hardwood – you must use engineered wood.
- Tongue and groove flooring is more time-consuming to install, but tends to be less expensive than click-lock.
- Click-lock flooring is really easy to install, making it ideal for low-budget hardwood floor DIY projects.
- Engineered hardwood is often preferred for DIY installations due to its design and durability.
- Solid hardwood is usually not recommended for DIY installations due to its tendency to move and expand.
- Installing hardwood floors yourself takes preparation and time, but is a great way to cut hardwood flooring costs.
“If you decide to install yourself, you could save money by purchasing your floor materials from a floor wholesaler instead of a carpet and flooring retailer or one of the big box stores.”
Kristin Warner | Floor Critics
Which Type of Hardwood Flooring is Right for You?
Our Pick for DIY Hardwood Floors: Engineered Oak
Engineered oak hardwood is a relatively inexpensive yet durable hardwood flooring option for a DIY installation. Choosing prefinished engineered oak hardwood eliminates the cost and effort of finishing the floors once they’re installed. You can save even more money by choosing tongue and groove planks, or you can save yourself some time and effort by choosing a click-lock design.
Whichever design you choose, you’ll be well on your way to installing beautiful, budget-friendly hardwood floors – and we’ll show you how to do it.
How to Install Engineered Hardwood Floors
Part 1: Prep Your Workspace
Before you start working, we recommend removing all items from the room you’ll be working in, including any hanging pictures or decorations, as they will collect dust during the installation process.
1. Remove Existing Flooring
Before installing your new hardwood floors, you’ll need to remove the existing flooring. Whether you’re removing carpet, laminate or tile, we have step-by-step guides to walk you through the process.
- How to Remove Carpet
- How to Remove Tile Flooring
- How to Remove Laminate Flooring
Hardwood Flooring Installation Tip:
Need a quick, efficient disposal solution for your old flooring? A 10 yard dumpster is usually best for a residential flooring removal project. Learn more and get a quote today.
2. Prepare Your Subfloor
Without a proper base, your new flooring won’t have the support it needs. Make sure the area is moisture-free, level and clean before you dive into your project. Remember that it’s best to run your boards perpendicular to the floor joists beneath your subfloor. If you have to run them parallel, you can install another layer of plywood for added strength. “Also, be very conscious about the subfloor you install on,” says Kristin Warner of Floor Critics. “Never install over heated floors or fresh concrete.”
You’ll also want to prepare any doorways ahead of time. If your hardwood flooring will sit higher than the bottom of your door jamb, you’ll need to cut it so the planks can sit underneath.
3. Bring In Your Flooring Materials
Measure the square footage of the room by multiplying the length by the width. Purchase about 10 percent more material than needed to account for warped or flawed boards. Let the boxes sit for 72 hours to allow the material to acclimate to moisture in the room. Some experts say it’s best to take the boards out of the boxes, as it allows the air to hit all sides.
This is also the time to make sure you’re prepared with some essential DIY tools before proceeding to the installation steps.
4. Map Out Your Flooring
For a seamless look all the way through, you’ll want a strategy laid out beforehand.
Here are a few tips for a strong hardwood floor setup:
Mark a Starting Line: For flooring that’s square to your room, you’ll need to create a starting line for reference. First, measure and mark the center of each wall. Next, snap a chalk line between both sets of walls to find the center of the room – it should look like a set of crosshairs on your subfloor. Then, measure from the middle of the crosshairs to the wall you want to start with. Subtract the space for your expansion gap, and mark a line from this distance parallel to your starting wall using a chalk line. This will give you a straight, square starting line.
Use spacers to maintain an expansion gap along the perimeter of your hardwood floor.
What Is an Expansion Gap?
An expansion gap is a small space around the perimeter of your room that allows hardwood flooring to expand and contract with moisture and temperature changes. Though engineered hardwood is less sensitive to humidity changes than solid wood, it still needs a little room to breathe. “One of the most common mistakes [made during hardwood floor installation] is not leaving enough room for wood expansion, as the planks will expand and contract with changes in humidity throughout the year,” says flooring expert Kristin Warner.
Expansion gaps are typically about 12 to 15 millimeters wide, though the recommended size will depend on the species of wood you’re working with. When you purchase your flooring, check the packaging for its recommended expansion gap.
Make Cuts for Your End Rows: Plan for your first and last rows ahead of time to prevent awkward gaps or skinny partial boards at the end of your installation. To do this, measure the width of your room, subtracting your expansion gap. Then, divide this measurement by the width of your flooring planks. This will tell you how many full boards will fit and how much space will be left over. Divide this leftover space by two to find the proper width of your first and last boards.
Example: Your room is 12 feet wide (after subtracting both expansion gaps), and your planks are 5 inches wide. You can fit 28 full planks, with 4 inches to spare. This means your first and last boards should be 2 inches wide.
Keep in mind that the minimum width for a hardwood plank is 2 inches. Wait to cut your final row until it’s time to install it – this will ensure you get the most accurate measurement. Lastly, when cutting your end boards, be sure to use the tongue end for your starting row and the groove end for your ending row.
Rack Your Boards: Racking, or laying out your boards beforehand, will give you a good idea of your layout when you’re finally ready for installation. Use the longest, straightest pieces for the starting line, with the tongue side facing the wall. Remember, you’ll need to lay your boards perpendicular to your floor joists, or otherwise install another layer of plywood subfloor. Mix and match boards from different boxes for a more natural, varied look, and view the layout in good lighting to make sure you like it before installation.
Hardwood Flooring Installation Tip: Plan Your Flooring Around Permanent Fixtures
“One thing to think about if you are remodeling or building new is if you want your flooring to go underneath cabinets and in closets. If you run your flooring underneath kitchen cabinets, it will allow you to change your kitchen down the road without having to worry about replacing flooring.”
Tom Ory | Enterprise Wood Products
Avoid Bad Racking: When racking hardwood boards, it’s important to line your end joints – also known as seams – correctly for a structurally sound, beautiful floor pattern. It’s recommended that end joints be spaced at a distance three times the width of the plank – so if your planks are 5 inches wide, the joints should be spaced about 15 inches apart, especially for your first and last four rows.
However, if your room is smaller, it may limit your joint spacing capabilities, so at the very least, make sure the joints are spaced a minimum of 6 inches apart.
“H” seams are unsightly and structurally unsound. To avoid an “H” seam, do not line up end joints unless there are at least two rows of boards between them. For the same reasons, avoid “lightning bolt” or “stair-step” seams as well.
Hardwood Flooring Installation Tip: Check for Flawed Planks
Because hardwood is a natural product, it’s normal to have a few faulty pieces in your supply. Don’t throw them away – you may be able to cut the damaged parts off and use the rest in your install.
5. Remove Your Baseboards
This step is optional, depending on the look you’re going for, the condition of your baseboards and your project’s timeline. If you’d like your hardwood flooring to sit flush underneath your baseboards, you’ll have to remove the baseboards before installation and adjust their height accordingly. However, if your baseboards are old or you don’t have the time to remove them, you can install trim or quarter round molding directly to your baseboards to hide the expansion gap.
Part 2: Install Your Floorboards
Now that your room is prepped, it’s time to get started on your DIY hardwood floor installation. The method you use to install the floors will depend on your subfloor and the type of product you’ve chosen for your project.
There are three methods to install engineered hardwood: floating, nail-down and glue. We’ll walk you through how to install hardwood floors using each method.
The Floating Method
This is the simplest of the three methods, making it an ideal choice for a DIY install. Floating hardwood floors require no nails, and they can easily be installed over vinyl surfaces. This method is only recommended for engineered hardwood products.
Floating Hardwood Floor Installation Tools:
- Tape measure
- Miter saw
- Hand saw
- Tongue and groove adhesive
- Pull bar
- Hammer
- Installation spacers
- Mallet and tapping block
- Painter’s tape
1. Lay your first row of boards, tongue side against the starting wall.
To maintain the expansion gap, place spacers between your first row and the wall. If using click-lock, simply click the boards into place. For tongue and groove planks, run a bead of wood glue along the groove side of the end joints and long sides before linking each piece.
2. Working your way left to right, lock each plank into one another tightly.
If you’re using tongue and groove flooring, you can use painter’s tape to secure your planks while the wood glue sets. For either type, you can use a mallet and tapping block to tap the pieces together without damaging your new flooring.
If you don’t have a tapping block, you can use a spare piece of wood – just be careful not to damage your boards.
3. Make the final plank fit in the first row.
At the end of row one, you may need to cut a piece with your miter saw to make it fit. When cutting hardwood planks, remember to keep your wood face up, and to cut the correct end joint – you don’t want to cut for a groove joint when you really need a tongue joint.
4. Continue locking or gluing your pieces.
As you keep working, remember to stagger your end joints appropriately. Cut around permanent obstacles in the room such as radiators or floor vents, including an expansion gap around them as well.
5. Cut your plank to width for the final row.
To measure, lay your final plank face up on top of the last board installed. Make sure the tongue is facing the end wall. Place a scrap piece on top of your plank, pressed against your wall spacers. Use a pencil to trace a line down your final plank. With your saw, cut along this line while your plank is face up. Repeat for all end planks.
A pull bar goes where tapping blocks can’t– use a mallet and pull bar to secure your last rows.
6. Use a pull bar and hammer to lock your last row into place.
You’re in the home stretch. For tongue and groove flooring, keep your painter’s tape and spacers in place, and stay off it for 24 hours so the glue can set.
The Nail-Down Method
The staple or nail method is the most common way to install hardwood flooring and can be used both for engineered and solid hardwood installations. It works best for 3/8-inch to 5/8-inch flooring. Nailing hardwood floors improperly can damage your floor planks and potentially ruin your entire layout, which is why it’s important to understand how it’s done before getting started.
Nail-Down Hardwood Floor Installation Tools:
- Pneumatic flooring stapler
- Air nailer (used for face nailing)
- Hammer, nail setter and handheld drill (if not using pneumatic stapler and air nailer)
- Installation spacers
- Mallet and tapping block
- Wood glue
- Pull bar
- Jigsaw
- Wood putty
Here are a few tips and terms to help you nail your DIY hardwood flooring installation:
-
Tips for Nailing Hardwood Floors
Choose a Fastener Type
Staples, regular nails and cleat nails are all commonly used in hardwood flooring installations. Staples are much cheaper than cleat nails, and work well in woods like oak.
Choose the Right Nail or Staple Size
Typically, 1 ½ inch nails or 1 to 1 ½ inch staples are used on engineered hardwood, depending on its thickness.
Rent the Right Tools
Whichever fastener you choose, you’ll need to rent or buy the right machine and a compressor to install it – unless you’re nailing by hand.
Pneumatic flooring nailers are designed to make DIY hardwood installations faster and easier.
-
Blind Nailing Hardwood Floors
Blind Nailing Hardwood Floors
Blind nailing is driving your nails into the tongue of your plank at a 45-degree angle. Pneumatic flooring nailers are designed to do this easily, but you’ll have to do your first and last boards by hand, as your nailer won’t be able to reach the planks that are closest to your wall.
-
Hand Nailing Hardwood Floors
Because flooring nailers can’t fit in tight spaces, you’ll have to blind nail by hand as you get closer to the wall.
Hand Nailing Hardwood Floors
If you’re taking on the task of hand nailing your hardwood floors, you’ll need a drill and nail setter for a proper install.
-
Face Nailing Hardwood Floors
Face Nailing Hardwood Floors
Because you won’t be able to blind nail plank tongues against the wall, you’ll have to nail directly into the surface of those planks – this is called face nailing. Any face nails in your hardwood flooring will need to be countersunk (learn how to countersink nails below) and filled with wood putty.
Now that you know the basics, it’s time to start your installation.
1.
Start with your straightest boards, groove side to the wall on your starting line.
Make sure your spacers are in place to maintain your expansion gap.
2. Using the air nailer, begin face nailing your first row.
Face nail your first row about half an inch from the edge and 1 to 2 inches from the ends. Space your nails about 6 inches apart.
3. Tap your next row into place with your tapping block and mallet.
Using the air nailer, blind nail your second-row planks, making sure to countersink the nail heads so they sit evenly with the rest of the surface.
What is Countersinking?
Countersinking is ensuring that the head of a nail, staple or screw sits just slightly below the surface of the wood around it. It’s important to countersink the nails or staples used to fasten your hardwood flooring because if they sit higher than the wood’s surface in the grooves, it will prevent your pieces from connecting correctly. If your face nails sit higher than the wood’s surface, they can be caught on furniture or shoes, causing damage to your floors. For countersunk face nails, use wood putty to smooth out the surface.
Countersinking with Pneumatic Nailers: First practice nailing or stapling on a scrap piece of flooring, and adjust your compression until the staples are sunk properly into your boards.
Countersinking by Hand: Drill pilot holes, and use a nail setter to avoid damaging the surface of your new flooring.
After drilling pilot holes, use a nail setter to countersink by hand without damaging the wood.
4. Use a pneumatic flooring stapler or nailer for the third row and beyond.
These devices are designed to make nail-down hardwood installations much faster and easier. To nail the plank, simply line up the tongue with the arrow on the baseplate, and hit the trigger – or buffer.
5. Use a pull bar to pull your boards in the last few rows into place.
Your last few rows will be too close to the wall to use the pneumatic stapler, so you can use a pull bar to pull these boards into place and face nail them down. If your final board is a tight fit, you can glue it to the last board installed. Allow the glue to dry at least 24 hours before allowing foot traffic.
The Glue Method
This method is the best choice for existing concrete floors, such as in your basement. Engineered hardwood is the only type of hardwood flooring that can be installed over concrete.
Glue Hardwood Floor Installation Tools:
- Plastic gloves
- Moisture resistant flooring adhesive
- Sponge and wood-friendly cleaner
- V-notch trowel
- Weights
- Painter’s tape
- Tapping block and mallet
- Installation spacers
- Scraper
- Pull bar
1. Prepare the area for gluing.
Before beginning, be sure to scrub, grind and vacuum away any substances that might prevent the glue from sticking.
2. Spread the flooring adhesive with your trowel.
Only apply enough for a few rows at a time – you have to be able to reach the first row you’re working with.
3. Install the first row along your starting line and up against your spacers.
Use your tapping block and mallet to tap the second row into place. Avoid smearing the pieces through the glue too much, as this can reduce its adhesiveness. Wipe away excess glue as you go, using a lightly dampened sponge and wood-friendly cleaner.
4. Continue installing the remaining boards.
Keeping your end joints spaced properly and the planks tight, repeat the previous step for each row to install the remaining boards.
5. Install the final row using a pull bar and hammer.
Once the final row is in place, allow the glue to finish drying for 24 hours. Avoid foot traffic during this time.
Hardwood Floor Installation Tip: Be Mindful When Gluing Hardwood Floors
When gluing hardwood floors, remember that any adhesive you apply takes about an hour to set. You’ll need to prevent your boards from moving during this time so they can adhere properly.
You can use painter’s tape to hold boards together while you work, but do not leave it on overnight. Use weights to keep any bowed boards from popping up and away from the glue.
Part 3: Add the Finishing Touches and Clean Up
Once your installation is completed and your glue is dry, it’s time to put the finishing touches on your brand-new flooring.
Reinstall Baseboards
If you chose to remove your baseboards, now’s the time to reinstall them. Reusing your original baseboards is a great way to save money on hardwood flooring installations.
Install Molding
If you chose to keep your baseboards on during installation, you can use molding to cover your expansion gaps. Nail the trim directly to the baseboard – not the flooring.
Install Transitions
If your hardwood floors butt up against another room that’s a different material or height, you’ll need to install “T” molding transitions to create a smooth surface.
Sweep and Clean Your New Floors
Once your trim is installed, sweep away the dust and mop with a wood-friendly floor cleaner. Congratulations – you’re finished installing your hardwood floors!
How to Maintain Hardwood Floors
Day-to-Day Hardwood Floor Maintenance
There are a few things you can do every day to make sure you’re being kind to your new engineered hardwood floors:
- Close the blinds during peak daylight to prevent sun damage to your new floors.
- Sweep and dust regularly.
- Clean only with a damp cloth or mop – no steel wool or scrubbers.
- Avoid wax or oil-based cleaners on engineered hardwood, as they can cause buildup.
Hardwood Floor Maintenance Tip: Keep Cleaning Simple
“Hardwood floors can simply be cleaned with warm water and a damp rag or mop. One hardwood floor cleaning product that we have found people enjoy using is Bona Wood Cleaners. Hardwood floors can also be swept with a soft bristle broom or vacuumed with a soft bristle brush.”
Tom Ory | Enterprise Wood Products
Protecting Your Hardwood Flooring
Keep your new hardwood scratch-free for the long run with these tips for protecting hardwood floors:
- Use felt pads on the base of any furniture in the room.
- When moving large appliances, use sheets of plywood to create a path to push them across.
- Avoid vacuuming directly on the wood – use a soft bristle attachment or broom instead.
- Use runner rugs in high traffic areas, especially if you have pets.
- Have a “no-shoes” policy for hardwood areas of your home.
- If you have a mudroom, direct outside traffic through it during rainy or snowy weather.
You can install engineered hardwood on your own, but leave the refinishing to the professionals.
Refinishing Engineered Hardwood Floors
Part of knowing how to maintain hardwood floors is understanding how to refinish them – and when to ask for help. Engineered hardwood is made of a thin layer of solid wood on top of a plywood core. Because of this, sanding and refinishing engineered hardwood floors is a delicate, tricky process – sand too much and you could remove the entire top layer, ruining your floor.
Therefore, it’s almost always best to hire a professional to refinish engineered flooring. Be sure to fill in your contractor on the flooring’s specs, including the width of the top layer and the number of times it’s been refinished previously. Engineered hardwood can be finished about one to three times, depending on the width of the top layer and the floor’s wear and tear.
For Your First DIY Hardwood Floor Installation, Take Your Time
With the right preparation, anyone can budget hardwood floors into their home improvement plans. But if this is your first time completing an engineered hardwood floor installation, give yourself plenty of time to work. Installing hardwood floors can be a fairly involved process, even with the simpler designs and installation methods, so it’s best to work at your own pace to avoid major mistakes down the line.
If you have questions about your flooring materials or how to install it properly, call or email the manufacturer of your engineered hardwood flooring. They’ll be happy to let you know the specifics about your product and the best way to install it.
Installing hardwood floors as part of a larger home remodel? Be sure to check out some of our other helpful DIY guides:
- How to Remodel a Kitchen
- How to Remodel Your Bathroom
- How to Finish a Basement
- How to Set Up a Home Office on a Budget
- The Comprehensive DIY Home Improvement Guide
How Much Do Hardwood Floors Cost
Decorating trends come and go, but one item that always ranks high on the home design hit parade is the hardwood floor. It’s versatile, natural and works in almost any room in the house. Alas, the simple elegance and durability of hardwood doesn’t come cheap.
David Steckel, home expert at Thumbtack, the contractor/client pairing site, finds the cost to install hardwood floors in a 2,500-square-foot home runs $3,172 to $4,730. Rachel Zepernick, interior home expert at Angi, puts the typical price a tad higher: “Overall, the average project tends to total somewhere between $2,500 and $6,800.”
Though there are more affordable flooring options out there, hardwood has another rare quality: It’s one of the few home renovation projects that generates a profit. Wood floor installations recoup 118 percent of their cost, according to The National Association of Realtors/National Association of the Remodeling Industry’s “2022 Remodeling Impact Report,” while refreshing an existing hardwood floor returns a whopping 147 percent.
“Refinishing your wooden floors may be worth the investment,” Steckel says.
Those statistics suggest hardwood floors are an asset for your home. Let’s go beneath the surface to analyze hardwood floors’ cost.
What are the different types of hardwood floors?
Hardwood floors come in two general categories: engineered and solid. AKA natural or traditional, solid hardwood is what it sounds like: a piece straight from the tree. Engineered consists of a plywood core with a particular wood’s veneer wrapped around it.
“There are limitless variations of each,” Steckel says, as well as pros and cons. For example, engineered hardwood is relatively inexpensive: Steckel says it runs $4 and $9 a square foot, on average, while solid wood averages $5-$10. That said, engineered may not have the same longevity. “The investment in solid hardwood is often worth it since it can be refinished multiple times, extending its lifespan to nearly double that of engineered wood,” Angi’s Zepernick says.
If you choose solid wood floors, you need to make a second decision. You can choose between wood planks that come pre-finished or unfinished wood that is stained and sealed on site. “Unfinished woods give you the chance to stain them to the color of your choice or to match existing wood in your home, but finished [woods] make for faster, easier installation,” Zepernick says.
Beyond price, finish and wear through the years, you also need to consider the location of the hardwood floor. “In a basement, it is most common to install engineered hardwood that responds better to moisture,” Steckel says. The same goes for bathrooms.
What do different hardwood floors cost?
“On average, hardwood floors cost between $6 and $12 per square foot, including both the cost of materials and labor,” Zepernic says. “Higher-end materials, complex layouts and larger spaces might drive up the cost, with some projects looking more like $13 to $25 per square foot.”
“The range in cost depends on the type of wood you choose, the wood style, your home condition/layout and the cost of labor in your region,” she adds.
Wood prices vary, depending on the grade (quality) and thickness of the lot. Here are some of the most widely used floor species, running from common to exotic.
Maple | $4-$11 | Highly durable and affordable; harder to install |
Pine | $5-$10 | Warm tones and unique knotty look; affordable, but scratches/dents easily |
Bamboo | $5-$11 | Light tones, contemporary look; eco-friendly, but can be slippery |
Hickory | $6-$13 | Dense grain patterns, durable |
Red or white oak | $8-$15 | Natural color variations, long-lasting, water-resistant (white oak) |
White ash | $9-$13 | Light color, hard to stain |
Mahogany | $14 | Rich color, harder to install, water-resistant |
Brazilian walnut | $11-$20 | Dark color; exotic and expensive, but long-lasting |
What influences hardwood floor costs?
Along with the type of wood, other factors play into the cost of a hardwood floor installation project:
- Floor pattern. “The style you choose is another important factor in the cost of your hardwood flooring, with wide plank on one end, ranging from $2 to $12 per square foot, and genuine parquet on the other end, costing between $20 and $45 per square foot,” Zepernick explains. “In the middle, you’ll find wood-like tile, averaging between $15 and $20 per square foot, and herringbone patterns, averaging around $12 per square foot.” Plus, Steckel says, “Herringbone, chevron or other patterns might require more to be wasted due to offcuts and therefore require you to buy more boards to cover the same square footage.”
- The subfloor. Once your old flooring has been removed and disposed of, the floor must be prepared with a subfloor — the bottom-most layer — before mounting the hardwood to it. It’s important to factor in the cost of a new subfloor, or repairs to your current one (which can cost an additional $500 to $800, Angi says). The condition of the floor is also significant: Certain complications — like uneven flooring, pest/water damage or hard-to-remove carpeting — that require more extensive prep will impact the project too.
- Installation efforts. The difficulty (and thus the cost) of mounting the hardwood layer to the subfloor will vary depending on the wood you choose, Steckel explains. “Wide plank flooring requires both glue and nail down installation as well as a better prepared subfloor than thinner plank,” he says. Also, “there will always be species of wood or fabrication methods that add to a price.” For example, if you choose a particularly hard wood for your flooring, it will require more labor for your installation team to make the necessary cuts.
- Installation itself generally costs $3-$6 a square foot, according to Angi — unless complications ensue. In general, expect labor costs to make up about 50 percent of your total floor installation budget, according to HomeGuide.
- Species trends/availability. “Oak, maple, walnut, ash and cherry are all popular types of wood flooring. These woods are easy to find and therefore tend to be more affordable, making them good choices for projects requiring a quick turnaround,” Zepernick says. “Being easy to find also makes it easier to replace a plank or two if the flooring gets damaged down the road.” On the other hand, a particularly trendy species or style — like wide planks, chevron patterns and hand-scraped engineered hardwoods currently — often bears inflated prices, due to demand.
Final word on hardwood floors
At resale time, a hardwood floor can generate a return on investment of more than 100 percent. That assumes, though, that your floor still looks great. And that hinges on choosing the right type of floor for your space and maintaining it.
Before you pick a type of wood, research its durability and upkeep requirements. Make sure it can hold up to your lifestyle (e.g., scratch resistant if you have pets or kids, moisture resistant if it’s in a bathroom or basement or you live in a humid climate).
From the wood type to its finish and all manner of decorative detail and patterns, you have a lot to consider when it comes to choosing hardwood flooring — and that includes the contractors installing it. Hardwood requires proper handling and acclimatization time, Steckel says: “If the hardwood is being installed immediately after spending months in an outdoor facility or cold warehouse, it might have shrunk a bit. If you install it in your warm and humidity-controlled home before it acclimatizes, it might cap or crown.”
Treat your hardwood right, though, and it’ll provide you with beautiful floors for years.
How Much Does It Cost to Install 1000 Square Feet of Hardwood Floor?
A hardwood floor is a beautiful and durable addition to any home. Installing hardwood floors can be a daunting task. But before you install a hardwood floor, it is important to understand the costs involved. The typical cost of hardwood flooring ranges from $2,493 to $6,754, with a national average of $4,540.
The cost of hardwood floors will vary depending on the type of hardwood you choose and the preparation that needs to be done before installation. In this guide, we will explore the costs involved in installing 1000 square feet of hardwood flooring in your home.
Average Installation Cost for Hardwood Floor
Hardwood flooring costs about $4,540 on average and most homeowners spend between $2,493 to $6,754. The low end is around $6 to $11 per sq. foot, while the high end is $12 to $23 per sq. foot for both installation and materials. Finishing, trims, and removal of your current floor are all included in the installation.
Factors in Calculating Hardwood Floor Installation Cost
There are many factors to consider, such as the type of hardwood flooring you choose and the preparation that needs to be done before installation.
Types of Hardwood Floors
The first thing you need to consider is the type of hardwood flooring you want. There are many different types of hardwood, such as engineered hardwood, solid hardwood, and laminate. The type of hardwood flooring you choose will affect the cost of installation.
Traditional Hardwood Floor
Solid hardwood floors are made of 100% wood. These floors are the most durable and require the most maintenance. They can be refinished multiple times, which makes them an excellent choice for high-traffic areas.
Engineered Hardwood Floor
Engineered hardwood floors are typically more expensive than solid, but they are also more durable and easier to install. Engineered hardwood is made of a plywood base with a layer of hardwood veneer on top. These are more resistant to temperature and changes in moisture.
Pine Hardwood Floor
Pine hardwood is a popular choice for homeowners because it is affordable and easy to install. Pine floors are also exceptionally durable and can be refinished multiple times. The cost of pine hardwood is $2 to $4 per square foot. Engineered heart pine flooring is a more expensive option. The average cost of engineered heart pine is $10 to $11 per square foot.
Maple Hardwood Floor
It is more durable and less prone to dents, and is an excellent choice for high-traffic areas. The only disadvantage is that because of this, professional help is recommended. The color of the wood varies from white to a red tone. The average cost for maple flooring is $3 to $4 per square foot. Engineered Maple hardwood usually costs $10 to $12 per square foot.
Ash Hardwood Floor
Heartwood Ash is stained resistant, although it is difficult to stain hardwood. Color variation is from tan to pale gray having a grain-like oak. The average cost of ash flooring is $5 to $6 per square foot.
Oak Hardwood Floor
Oak is a hardwood that has intricate earth tones and patterns. Red Oak has a distinct reddish earth tone to its grain, although it is narrower than most. Oak is a mid-range wood flooring material that costs between $3 and $10 per square foot.
Walnut Hardwood Floor
The wood is quite distinctive, with a unique grain and various exotic brownish hues. It is hard and long-lasting, with a material cost of around $5 to $9 per square foot.
COST PER SQUARE FOOT | |||
Hardwood Type | Low Grade | Mid Grade | High Grade |
Traditional Hardwood | $6 – $11 | $9 – $18 | $12 – $23 |
Engineered Hardwood | $6 – $14 | $9 – $19 | $12 – $23 |
Brazilian Walnut Hardwood | $5 – $9 | ||
Pine Hardwood | $2 – $4 | ||
Red Oak Hardwood | $2 – $6 | ||
White Ash Hardwood | $5 – $6 | ||
Maple Hardwood | $3 – $6 | ||
Engineered White Ash Hardwood | $12 – $13 | ||
Engineered Heart Pine Hardwood | $10 – $11 | ||
Engineered Maple Hardwood | $10 – $12 |
Preparation Costs for Hardwood Floors Installation
Another factor to consider is the preparation that needs to be completed before installation. This can include subflooring, leveling, and trimming. Depending on the condition of the existing subfloor, preparation costs can range from $0.50 to $1.50 per square foot.
Subflooring
If your home does not have a subfloor, you will need to install one before you can install hardwood. The cost of subflooring will vary depending on the type of subfloor you choose. If you have a concrete subfloor, the installation will be more expensive than if you have a plywood subfloor.
Leveling
If your floor is not level, you will need to level it before you can install hardwood floors. The cost of leveling will vary depending on the amount of work that needs to be done.
Trimming
If you need to trim any doorways or baseboards, you will need to do this before you can install hardwood floors. The cost of trimming will differ depending on the amount of work that needs to be done.
Average Labor Cost for Installing Hardwood Floor
The average labor cost for floor installation varies from $3 to $9 per square foot, with the use of an experienced contractor. Labor expenses should account for around 50% of your overall project expenditure. Always get several quotations from different hardwood flooring professionals to ensure an informed selection.
Factors Affecting Labor Cost for Hardwood Floor Installation
The cost of labor for hardwood floor installation will vary depending on the type of hardwood you choose and the preparation that needs to be done before installation.
- If you choose solid hardwood, the cost of labor will be higher because these floors are more difficult to install.
- If you choose engineered hardwood, the cost of labor will be lower because these floors are easier to install.
- If you choose laminate hardwood, the cost of labor will be lower because these floors are the easiest to install.
- The preparation that needs to be done before installation will also affect the cost of labor.
Hardwood Floor Finishing Cost
The cost of finishing hardwood floors will vary depending on the type of finish you choose and the size of your project.
The most common type of finish is polyurethane, which costs between $0.50 and $1.00 per square foot. Other types of finishes include wax, oil, and lacquer, which all have different costs.
Additional Cost Considerations for Hardwood Flooring
The followings are additional cost considerations that you should keep in mind when budgeting for your hardwood flooring project.
Cost Of Removing Your Old Flooring
You will need to factor in the cost of removing your old flooring. This can be a difficult and time-consuming task, so you may want to hire a professional to do it for you. The cost of removal will vary with the type of flooring you have, and the amount of work to be done.
Cost of Hardwood Floor Refinishing
This will vary depending on where you live, the type of wood, and how many coats of finish are applied, but it typically costs between $2 and $7 per square foot. Keep in mind that a well-maintained hardwood floor might never need to be refinished, while a neglected one could need it as often as every five years.
Tips To Save Money While Installing Hardwood Floors
There are few ways you can save money while installing hardwood floors in your home:
Choose The Right Type of Hardwood Flooring
If you choose solid hardwood, the cost of labor will be higher because these floors are more difficult to install. If you choose engineered hardwood, the cost of labor will be lower because these floors are easier to install. If you choose laminate hardwood, the cost of labor will be lower because these floors are the easiest to install.
Get Multiple Quotes
Always get several quotations from different hardwood flooring professionals to ensure an informed selection. This will help you get the best price for your project.
Compare Prices of Materials
Prices for hardwood flooring can vary widely, so it is important to compare prices before you make a purchase.
Consider Used Hardwood Floors
If you are on a tight budget, you may be able to find used hardwood floors that are in good condition. This can be a wonderful way to get the look of hardwood floors without spending a lot of money.
Negotiate With Your Contractor
If you can negotiate with your contractor, you may be able to get a lower price for your project. Always get quotes from multiple contractors before you decide.
Pros And Cons of Hardwood Flooring
Pros |
Cons |
· Easy to clean and maintain · Durable and can last for many years · Increase the value of your home · Available in a variety of colors, finishes, and styles to match any décor |
· More expensive than other types of flooring · Can be scratched and dented · Can be damaged by water and humidity · Can be difficult to install |
Choosing A Hardwood Floor Care Company
When you are ready to have your wood floors regularly maintained, it is important to choose the best hardwood floor cleaning company. Here are a few tips to help you find the best contractor for your project:
· Get Multiple Quotes
As with any home improvement project, it is important to get multiple quotes from different contractors before you decide. This will help you compare prices and find the best value for your project.
· Ask For Referrals
Ask your friends, family, and co-workers if they have had any recent experience with hardwood flooring contractors. They may be able to recommend a good contractor or warn you about a bad one.
· Check Credentials
Make sure the contractor you are considering is licensed, bonded, and insured. You can check with your local Chamber of Commerce or Better Business Bureau to see if there have been any complaints filed against the contractor.
· Ask For a Written Estimate
Make sure you get a written estimate from the contractor before work begins. This will help you avoid any surprises when it comes time to pay for the project.
· Read Reviews
Check online reviews to see what other customers have said about the contractor’s work. This can give you a good idea of what to expect from the contractor.
In conclusion, there are many factors to consider when installing hardwood floors. The type of hardwood flooring, the size of the room, the level of difficulty involved in the installation, and the type of subfloor all play a role in determining the cost of installation. Be sure to shop around and compare prices before you purchase to ensure you get the best deal on hardwood floors for your home.
Hardwood Flooring
Browse By
- Engineered
- Solid
- Click Together
- Hand Scraped
- Cabin Grade
- Accessories
Hardwood Flooring Search
Type: | Engineered | Solid |
Shade: | light | medium | dark |
Color: | brown | red | multicolor |
golden | grey |
|
Featured Hardwoods
Get Your Discount Hardwood Flooring at Floors to Your Home
What makes a classic? Is it timeless appeal, consistent quality, or is it the ability to transcend fads and
maintain its character? For wood floors, the answer is all three.
The beauty of hardwood flooring is as varied as the trees it’s derived from; a veritable bounty of colors and
patterns can be counted on to add pop to any interior design plan.
Floors To Your Home offers a lovely selection of discount hardwoods with rich burls, lush grain patterns, and
colors ranging from the palest champagne to the darkest ebony. The possibilities begin with your imagination!
Floors To Your Home features a great selection of discounted domestic and exotic hardwoods. Both varieties are
perennial favorites, from the common and beloved white oak to the highly sought after teak and mahogany. We
include both first quality and cabin grade options.
A solid hardwood floor plank, as the name suggests, is made from a single piece of wood, while engineered
flooring is composed of layers. The top layer will be visible on installation, while the bottom layers provide
stability. Another great thing about wood flooring is the variety of installation options. Many of our hardwoods
feature tongue and groove construction, while others click together just like our laminate or vinyl plank
flooring. Same easy installation, same great discounts!
There’s no need to shy away from wood in homes where scratching and impact damage is a concern. Modern hardwood
floors are protected by a transparent aluminum oxide or polyurethane coating to prevent damage.
What’s the Best Option For You?
The two most important factors in picking a wood species are strength and aesthetic. If your flooring is going
to be installed in a high-traffic area, it makes sense to look into selections known for their durability. The
Janka Hardness Scale is the industry standard; it’s readily available for consultation and offers a concise,
easy to understand measurement.
After narrowing down the species options based on your needs, then you can move onto getting the flooring look
you want. Different hardwood species from all over the world showcase the true spectrum of nature’s diversity,
providing a huge array of colors, grain patterns, and contrast levels between the grain and the wood itself. We
pride ourselves on offering our customers an unmatched selection of hardwood species and styles to ensure the
perfect discount flooring match for everyone.
All hardwood is measured using the Janka Hardness Scale to determine its strength and density. The pressure it
requires to imbed a steel ball half of its diameter deep into a piece of wood provides the Janka rating. Pine is
one of the most common sources of North American wood and merits a 650 on the Janka scale. It can make an
absolutely stunning floor, especially for those in search of a quaint, rustic look, but its softer constitution
makes it more susceptible to dents and scratches.
Oak is known for being the hardest domestic wood on the market today. Red Oak is considered to be the benchmark
for average hardness in a wood floor and carries a 1200 Janka rating, while its cousin White Oak carries a Janka
rating of 1350. Both Red and White Oak hardwoods make classic, elegant floors that can last for years to come.
How Is Discount Hardwood Flooring Installed?
- Nailing
- Stapling
- Gluing
- Floating Without Adhesive
- Click Together
Whether you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer or a home repairs expert, there’s a discount hardwood flooring
style available to suit your comfort level!
Discount Hardwood Flooring and the Environment
As global citizens, it’s our responsibility to take an active interest in preserving our natural resources.
That’s why we only purchase and sell hardwood flooring that meets the high standards set out by the Lacey Act of
1900, a landmark piece of environmental legislation that has been amended over the past 100 years to reflect the
changing times. Under this law, it is “unlawful to import, export, sell, acquire, or purchase fish, wildlife or
plants that are taken, possessed, transported, or sold: 1) in violation of U.S. or Indian law, or 2) in
interstate or foreign commerce involving any fish, wildlife, or plants taken possessed or sold in violation of
State or foreign law.” Just like we don’t take any shortcuts when it comes to discounts, we don’t take any
shortcuts when it comes to sustainable flooring.
The vast majority of our wood is grown and manufactured right here in the United States and rigorously conforms
to the Lacey Act. The small percentage that originates in China comes from non-endangered, non-threatened birch
trees and also adheres to these specifications. All nondomestic materials are measured against the same
standards as their American counterparts.
When you buy discount hardwood flooring from Floors To Your Home, your environmental conscience can rest easy
knowing you support safe, renewable sources.
Picking The Right Discount Hardwood Flooring For You
Both types of discount flooring confer a different set of benefits to your home.
Solid hardwood floors are the only type of floors on the market today that are actually proven to increase a
home’s selling price.
Why? Because solid hardwood floor can, with proper care and maintenance, last for a generation or more. It’s
also the only flooring material that can be re-finished. All it takes is some sanding, the stain color of your
choice, and voila! This type of discount hardwood flooring can be installed on wood subfloors, and should always
be installed above grade to prevent complications from moisture, humidity, and temperature fluctuations.
Because its additional layers lend extra sturdiness to its construction, engineered hardwood flooring is more
versatile than solid in terms of where it can be installed. It also tends to be lower in cost. Frequently
engineered wood floors are also stronger and less responsive to the environment, so climate factors such as
moisture and temperature will present fewer issues. Engineered wood flooring can be installed over concrete, and
can also be installed on, above, or below grade.
Both solid and engineered hardwood flooring are available in a wide range of finish options. A hand scraped
surface provides a more characterful rustic look, while nothing says timeless beauty like a smooth finish.
Whatever your preference, the trained experts at Floors To Your Home are standing by to help you select your dream
discount hardwood flooring!
Hardwood Deals & Specials
Basics
- Solid vs. Engineered
- What is “Hand-Scraped”?
- What is “Cabin Grade?
- All About Bamboo
Good To Know
- Hardwood Myths
- Hardwood vs. Laminate
- Durability, Plank Size, Finishes
- Will the Color Change?
Installation and Care
- The Different Installation Methods
- Installing Safely
- Hardwood Maintenance
- Anatomy of a Floor
Recent Blog Posts
- Quick Answers: Can Vinyl Flooring Withstand Cold Temperatures?
- What’s So Great About Luxury Vinyl?
- Do or Don’t: Vinyl Flooring
- How Is Vinyl Flooring Made?
- When Not To Buy Hardwood
View All Posts >
contactlocationmailphone
Meister parquet board price in Moscow
Selection Filter
Sort: DefaultBy Name (A – Z)By Name (Z – A)Price (Ascending)Price (Descending)Rating (Descending)Rating (Ascending)Model (A – Z )By Model (I – A)
Model: | 38-300 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | American Walnut |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 66-542 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 35-135 |
Size | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 79-222 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 77-341 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | American Walnut |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 76-448 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 27-679 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 86-259 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 47-427 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 33-105 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 59-937 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 65-164 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 77-731 |
Size | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 78-244 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 36-212 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 12-361 |
Dimensions | 2600 x 320 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.496 |
All specifications
Model: | 85-904 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | American Walnut |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 68-043 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 24-169 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All features
Model: | 15-256 |
Dimensions | 2600 x 320 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.496 |
All specifications
Model: | 22-869 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 62-883 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 22-901 |
Size | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 67-544 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 55-704 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 73-646 |
Dimensions | 2600 x 320 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.496 |
All specifications
Model: | 47-077 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 80-371 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 14-886 |
Dimensions | 500 x 100 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 400 Stab |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 1mm |
Packed meters, m2 | 0. 5 |
All specifications
Model: | 64-521 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 27-859 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 76-732 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 54-483 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 40-805 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 60-028 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 26-145 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All features
Model: | 55-023 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 35-971 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 75-197 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Wood species | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 66-912 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 79-077 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 65-638 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 45-752 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All features
Model: | 33-000 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 97-391 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 29-038 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Wood species | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 35-052 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 93-896 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 81-462 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 36-236 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All features
Model: | 74-761 |
Dimensions | 710 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 500 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.807 |
All specifications
Model: | 27-924 |
Dimensions | 1187 x 142 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 300 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.011 |
All specifications
Model: | 72-149 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 270 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.376 |
All specifications
Model: | 82-742 |
Dimensions | 500 x 100 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PS 400 Stab |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 1mm |
Packed meters, m2 | 0.5 |
All specifications
Model: | 45-961 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 180 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PD 400 Cottage |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.584 |
All specifications
Model: | 27-151 |
Dimensions | 2400 x 255 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PC 400 Style |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.448 |
All specifications
Model: | 67-113 |
Dimensions | 2600 x 320 x 11 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | HD 400 Lindura |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Oil |
Top layer thickness, mm | 0. 6 |
Packed meters, m2 | 2.496 |
All specifications
Model: | 93-040 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 180 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PD 400 Cottage |
Wood species | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.584 |
All specifications
Model: | 67-660 |
Dimensions | 2400 x 200 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PC 200 Classic |
Type of wood | American Walnut |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2. 5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.92 |
All specifications
Model: | 59-301 |
Dimensions | 2200 x 180 x 13 mm |
Fire class | KM3 |
Country | Germany |
Collection | PD 200 |
Type of wood | Oak |
Coating | Varnish |
Top layer thickness, mm | 2.5 |
Packed meters, m2 | 1.584 |
All features
Newsletter
Subscribe
ParketMe.ru © 2022
Website development and promotion – Venta reSearch Lab
Laying a parquet board – price per m2 in Moscow, order installation at Service Parket
- Prices
- Timing
- Callback
- Reviews
- Masters
One of the most purchased types of flooring is natural parquet. Endowed with an original texture, it is used in interior design in various styles. Compared to piece parquet, the board differs in a larger size, which affects the laying speed. Ease of installation allows you to purchase a parquet board for decorating large rooms.
Price list for laying parquet board
Among the advantages that steel parquet board can boast of:
- resistance to environmental changes
- no sanding required after parquet laying
- acceptable value
- simple, easy installation.
Masters of the company “Service Parquet” carry out high-quality laying of parquet boards. Quickly and efficiently, we organize the installation of the material. The flooring will last a long time, delighting with an impeccable appearance. Adequate price for services becomes an additional advantage of ordering parquet board laying in our company.
Laying parquet board with plywood | Cost |
Screed priming | 50 rub/m 2 |
Plywood cut into 4 pieces | 30 rub/m 2 |
Laying plywood with glue and screws | 150 rub/m 2 |
Sanding plywood | 100 rub/m 2 |
Laying parquet along walls | from 760 rub/m 2 |
Laying parquet at 45 degrees to the wall | from 890 rub/m 2 |
Total cost | from 1090 rub/m 2 |
Sanding with coating | Cost |
Sanding and sanding with a German Hummel belt machine | 160 rub/m 2 |
Scraping and grinding with a German machine in hard-to-reach places Flip | 40 rub/m 2 |
Grinding with a three-disc German machine Trio | 120 rub/m 2 |
Crack filling (puttying) | 150 rub/m 2 |
Odorless lacquer in 3 coats | 50 rub/m 2 |
3 coats of polyurethane alkyd lacquer odorless | 150 rub/m 2 |
1 coat of colorless parquet oil | 110 rub/m 2 |
Colorless oil coat 2 coat | 150 rub/m 2 |
1 coat of colored parquet oil | 210 rub/m 2 |
1 coat of primer | 50 rub/m 2 |
Intermediate sanding with Columbus | 50 rub/m 2 |
Gel effect parquet | 100 rub/m 2 |
Gel coat between coats | 150 rub/m 2 |
Handling and delivery | Cost |
Handling (plywood, glue) | 90 rub/m 2 |
Delivery of materials (plywood, glue, consumables) within the Moscow Ring Road | 1200 rub |
Delivery of materials (plywood, glue, consumables) outside the Moscow Ring Road | within the Moscow Ring Road + 40 rubles/km |
Ways of laying parquet boards
The most common ways of laying steel:
- “Floating” method – fastening with tenon grooves. An important condition during the installation process is the humidity and temperature in the room. The method is characterized by such advantages as the possibility of dismantling if necessary, high speed and excellent physical characteristics. Laying is possible in two ways: longitudinal installation from the wall and diagonal, from an angle of
- installation of parquet boards on logs – in other words, on a special wooden base. The work requires high professionalism from the performers
- adhesive method – suitable for large areas and in cases where it is necessary to ensure the ideal rigidity of the structure. Parquet boards are glued closely to the base.
Additionally, it is worth mentioning the installation of parquet boards on plywood.
How we work
1.
We consult by phone
and approximately voiced prices
2.
We send a technologist for consultations
3.
The technologist inspects Paul
and draws up an estimate of
4.
The customer signs an agreement,
If everything is satisfied with
5. 9000
with equipment
and materials
6.
Works are performed
qualitatively and on time
7.
The customer signs
the certificate of completion
Substrate preparation
The subfloor has a direct effect on the quality of parquet board installation. In order for the coating to have an ideal appearance, care must be taken that the substrate is even, uniform. For this use:
- coupler
- use of polyurethane foam underlay
- thick plywood flooring.
Deadlines
Area | Timing |
up to 40 m2 | 1 day |
40 – 70 m2 | 2 days |
70 – 100 m2 | 3 days |
100 – 130 m2 | 4 days |
130 – 160 m2 | 5 days |
over 160 m2 | from 6 days |
Our advantages
We will arrive
today
Gently
move the furniture
Operational
performance of work
The best masters
from Moscow
Payment only under contract
and not a penny more
Carrying out works
at any time of the day
Warranty for works
up to 3 years
All forms of payment: cash,
by card and by bank transfer
Call +7 (495) 150-03-96 and order inexpensive scraping right now, or
Preparing the parquet base
The quality of the floor’s performance largely depends on the evenness and uniformity of the flooring. Various kinds of irregularities will help to hide the screed. Often laying also involves the use of a special polyurethane foam underlay and thick plywood flooring. They are designed to provide the “rough” surface with perfect evenness. The parquet underlay helps to insulate the room and provide its sound insulation.
The quality of board assembly is influenced by the environment. The air temperature in the room should not be lower than 18 degrees, and its humidity should not be less than 30 percent. Before starting work, it is important to ensure the perfect cleanliness of the room.
A professionally installed board is a guarantee of durability and reliability of the floor. Our team uses only proven materials and modern installation equipment, which allows us to guarantee a long service life of the flooring. We will install parquet floors according to French technology or in another way within a predetermined period on favorable terms.
The underlay also provides sound insulation and additional insulation of the room.
Installation of parquet boards must take place at a temperature of 18 degrees and above, humidity not less than 30%. Perfect cleanliness of the premises contributes to the high quality of work. The Service Parquet team uses professional equipment and proven materials. All works are carried out within a clearly defined time frame. We will make a profitable commercial offer so that laying parquet boards in Moscow becomes a profitable event.
Reviews
Customer ReviewsVideo ReviewsThanks
01/09/2021 |
Anna
For a long time I was looking for a good company on the Internet, I wanted everything to be done quickly and at an affordable price, but my friends recommended Service Parquet to me. I want to thank Service Parquet for the excellent personal work! When accepting the order, they answered all my questions, helped me decide on a set…
Read full review
07/29/2020 |
Ivan
Completed the work on time. Satisfied with the result.
Read full review
05/27/2020 |
Svetlana
We applied for the parquet scraping service at the end of April 2020, they did it on May 8-9, 2020, master Magomed.
Type of sanding, varnish, all the nuances were discussed with the manager in WhatsApp, very convenient. The room is small, about 10 squares, done in two days, because. there was a lot of putty (not very good condition pa…
Read full review
03/06/2020 |
Olga
This is the first firm in which a disgusting attitude towards customers.
The only adequate manager is Anna.
Senior manager Marina Nikitina fully corresponds to the company itself – she collects gossip, lies and pours mud, is rude and throws away her pipes.
Worse relationship I have not yet …
Read full review
10/27/2019 |
Elena
We would like to express our gratitude to master Yuri for the professionally performed work.
We are very satisfied with the result, if only there were more such workers. Please reward an employee of the company.
Read full review
09/17/2019 |
Vladimir
Trouble happened, a pipe broke, flooded the floor in the room. A week later, the parquet in the center of the room swelled. Contact Service Parquet. Manager Anna clearly organized the repair process, with control calls. Master Eugene with an assistant corrected the consequences of the flood (dismantling, pruning, laying…
Read full review
09/16/2019 |
Yuriy
I liked working with Service Parquet:
, first of all, we took on a small volume – I had to remove varnish from 15m2 of piece parquet and sand the surface to apply oil. He applied the oil himself;
secondly, efficiency – I made an order on Thursday, and on Saturday they already got to work;
. ..
Read full review
08/15/2019 |
Svetlana
I ordered the service of grinding and varnishing, agreed on a certain day, the night before they had to call back and clarify the time of arrival of the master, the time is 19.30 there is no call, I call myself – the manager Marina (according to her, she has been working in the company for 8 years) hung up, then the phone switched off at 9-o…
Read full review
02/13/2019 |
Daria Potapova
Probably there are no others like it. At least it is difficult to find such a good combination of prices and quality of parquet restoration services, as here, in SERVICE PARQUET. I liked their professionalism, and the equipment also pleased. The tool used is modern and powerful. Combined with professional…
Read full review
12/07/2018 |
Oleg
Please call back by phone 8 (499) 322-46-85, Sorry, the station has hung up, wait for the operator’s answer, Oleg.
Read full review
02/22/2018 |
Irina
Thanks to Service Parquet. Master Roman was very polite and careful. The result of the work performed is impressive. Recommend
Read full review
12/16/2017 |
Timofey Viktorovich
For the first time I come across the fact that the masters do their work in a day. When ordering the service, of course, they promised me that it would be fast, but I can’t believe that it’s so straight. Moreover, the repair was done neatly and without unnecessary odors. When I entered the room with the updated floor, it was not even noticeable that it was here…
Read full review
Master
Stanislav
Experience 8 years
Master
Dmitry
Experience 5 years
Master
Andrew
Experience 5 years
Master
Maksim
Experience 7 years
Master
Artem
Experience 15 years
Master
Denis
Experience 10 years
Master
George
Experience 10 years
Master
Anton
Experience 12 years
Master
Alexander
Experience 10 years
Company Services
Laying parquet boards order in Moscow at low prices at dok-parket.
ru
The cost of laying parquet boards per square meter will please you very much. We don’t do cheats. When confirming the order, we draw up an accurate estimate, which does not change during work. The price of laying a parquet board in Moscow is calculated individually, based on the selected materials, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the complexity of the work.
Parquet board is a natural flooring that consists of several layers of wood glued together. The top most valuable layer is called veneer, it is about 3-4 mm thick and is usually made from expensive and rare wood species.
The veneer can be 1, 2 and 3-strip, the last two options consist of dies glued together, which create an imitation of piece parquet.
PRICES
for laying boards
Service | Price |
---|---|
1. Underlay deck | 50m2 |
2. Laying parquet board – floating | 450m2 |
3. Floating installation (DIAGONAL) | 500m2 |
4. Laying parquet board with adhesive (STRAIGHT) | 550m2 |
5. Laying parquet boards with adhesive (DIAGONAL) | 690m2 |
6. Skirting board installation (Plastic) | 180pg/m |
TERMS
FOR INSTALLATION
Without plywood | From plywood | |
---|---|---|
up to 15 M 2 | 1 day | 1-2 days |
15-25 M 2 | 2-3 days | 3-4 days |
25-40 M 2 | 3-4 days | 4-5 days |
40-55 M 2 | 4-5 days | 5-6 days |
55-70 M 2 | 5-6 days | 6-7 days |
Over 70 M 2 | from 5 days | from 7 days |
The lower part consists of one or more layers, made from inexpensive and soft wood. All layers fit together perfectly and are glued perpendicular to each other. Using this method, their size does not change throughout the entire period of operation, even if the humidity in the room is increased or there are temperature fluctuations in winter or summer. The quality and price of the material are directly proportional to each other. The higher the cost, the better the quality.
The price of a board is influenced by the following factors:
- The size of the plates
- Number of strips
- Number of layers (depending on thickness)
- Wood species of the top expensive layer
- Tree view of the bottom layer
- Veneer type
- Veneer cutting method
- Veneer Heat Treatment
- View of the protective coating of the top layer.
RECOMMENDATIONS
OUR TECHNOLOGY
- High-quality base
- Substrate from 2 to 4 mm
- If glued only on strong glue
- The service life of the docks before the first grinding is 15 years.
Leave a request
And we will call you back
Technologist Alexey +7 (968) 738-54-60
we will contact you within an hour!
Laying
parquet boards
in a straight line from 450 m2
diagonal from 500 m2
adhesive method from 550 m2
PRICES for works
FOR M2
Service | Old price | Price RUB |
---|---|---|
1. Screed primer | 100 rub/m2 | 50 rub/m2 |
2. Solid board decking with adhesive SPAX screws (COATED) | 1050 rub/m2 | 950 rub/m2 |
3. Laying a solid board with adhesive SPAX screws (WITHOUT COATING) | 900 rub/m2 | 800 rub/m2 |
900 rub/m2 | 850 rub/m2 | |
5. Floorboard installation, floating | 500 rub/m2 | 450 rub/m2 |
6. Floating parquet flooring (DIOGANAL) | 650 rub/m2 | 500 rub/m2 |
7. Installation of parquet boards with adhesive (DIRECT) | 700 rub/m2 | 550 rub/m2 |
8. Installing the parquet board with glue (DIAGONAL) | 800 rub/m2 | 690 rub/m2 |
9. Curb installation | 500 rub/m2 | 400 rub/m2 |
10. Installation of frieze | 950 rub/m2 | from 850 rub/m2 |
11. French Tree | 1950 rub/m2 | 1500 rub/m2 |
12. Module deck | 1950 rub/m2 | 1200 rub/m2 |
13. Artistic parquet flooring | 3500 rub/m2 | 2500 rub/m2 |
14. Complex parquet laying (braided, sheremetyevka) | 950 rub/m2 | 850 rub/m2 |
15. Diagonal Squares | 1200 rub/m2 | 1100 rub/m2 |
16. Insert “Sockets” | 4500 rub/m2 | 3400 rub/m2 |
Price list for additional work
Service | Price | |
---|---|---|
Parquet floor removal | |
500 rub/m 2 |
Removing solid board | |
550 rub/m 2 |
Dismantling linoleum | |
40 rub/m 2 |
Laminate removal | |
50 rub/m 2 |
Filling of self-leveling floors up to 20 mm | |
300 rub/m 2 |
Screed up to 40 mm | |
400 rub/m 2 |
Sanding the screed with a diamond disc | |
249 rub/m 2 |
Base cleaning | |
50 rub/m 2 |
Application with epoxy primer | |
200 rub/m 2 |
Multimoll flooring | |
149 rub/m 2 |
Plywood cutting | |
60 sheet |
Lifting plywood in an elevator | |
99 sheet |
Parquet lifting | |
99 pack |
Prices for installing skirting boards
Service | Price | |
---|---|---|
Remove skirting board | |
50 rub/m 2 |
Installing a wooden skirting board up to 50 mm high | |
200 rub/m |
Installation of wooden plinth 50 to 70 mm high | |
230 rub/m |
Installing a wooden baseboard 70 to 90 mm high | |
250 rub/m |
Installation of wooden plinth 90 to 110 mm high | |
300 rub/m |
Installing a wooden skirting board over 110 mm high | |
350 rub/m |
Lacquering the baseboard | |
50 rub/m |
Installation of plastic skirting board | |
150 rub/m |
Mounting euro plinth on clips | |
450 rub/m |
Installation of flexible polyurethane skirting | |
550 rub/m |
Features of surface preparation for laying work.
Before starting work on laying parquet boards in Moscow, the flooring must be carefully primed. If it can form moisture, then it is simply necessary to prime the surface well with epoxy or polyurethane two-component primers before starting all work.
If you don’t do this, you won’t be able to cope with the impact of the liquid on your parquet. The substrates that isolate from the liquid, on the contrary, will begin to accumulate water and its excess content will begin to flow into the room, which will contribute to the formation of fungus.
In what direction should the board be laid on the plywood?
Recommended to lay perpendicular to windows. It can be a canvas or have joints – it doesn’t matter. When using the floating method of laying a parquet board, all the joints between the pieces are hidden under small overlays, and with the adhesive laying technology, special cork compensators are mounted. The direction of laying, the price per m2 of which we have is quite affordable, depends entirely on the placement of window openings in the room, almost always the slabs are located perpendicular to the window.
Laying parquet boards is carried out in two different ways:
On glue it creates an excellent acoustic effect, such a floor does not loosen from temperature and humidity changes, it lasts much longer, it can be scraped up to 3 times. Laying a board on an underlay is much faster and cheaper than using glue, it is much easier to dismantle it after the expiration of its service life to install new material.
If you have purchased an expensive and very beautiful parquet board, do not skimp on the work of craftsmen. Buy high-quality expensive glue or seek advice from my qualified specialists. Here you can get acquainted with the prices for laying.
If you do not plan to spend a lot, then do not buy expensive options, lay an ordinary inexpensive board in a floating way.
The cost of laying parquet boards per square meter for glue and technology
Laying parquet boards (the cost of work depends on the area of the room) is only allowed on a perfectly flat surface. Glue will stick the dice to any base. However, if the coating has defects, then they must be eliminated. Screeds are usually primed and leveled using a self-leveling floor, and scraping is carried out on wooden surfaces.
If parquet boards are laid on wood flooring, then special pins are driven into the grooves of the boards. This is done so that the board adheres better to the surface. If it is not possible to do this, then everything that is heavy is placed on the boards. You can simply collect water in five-liter bottles and put it on the parquet.
The cost of laying on the substrate and the technology of work
The floor is being prepared, then the substrate is mounted, which is glued with adhesive tape. Laying a parquet board, the price for it varies depending on the area of the room, is carried out in strict accordance with the instructions. A gap of 1 cm is left between the wall and the floor covering, in case of expansion of the board due to temperature rise and humidity fluctuations. If there are pipes in the floor covering, then a hole is carefully drilled in the board, which (at the request of the customer) is sealed with a special insert. After completion of all work, the plinth is installed.
How to choose an underlay for floating installation?
When performing professional underlayment, the first step is to choose the material for the underlayment. There are 5 types of substrates: flexible ones are rolled up, and rigid ones are made in rectangular or square shape. At first it may seem that even an inexperienced person can choose a substrate, but everything is not so easy here. There is a certain scheme for selecting the substrate for a particular room. Not all of them protect the flooring from moisture, which means that you will still have to spend money on plastic wrap.
Underlays can also be used to slightly isolate the room from sound or smooth out existing surface irregularities. Under the last two versions of the substrates, it is recommended to lay a polyethylene film to protect against moisture; in the first three options, its use is not necessary.