Stone wall cement mix: Build Your Own Stone Wall

What type of mortar mix should I use for a rubble stone wall?

I’ve got a bunch of rough stone that I dug up in my garden, and I’d like to build a wall as a landscaping feature. I’ve heard different views on whether to use a cement mortar mix or a lime one. Wondering what people out there think, and why.

14 Answers from MyBuilder Stonemasons

Best Answer

Ransom Building Services

Uckfield • Member since 17 Feb 2011 •

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Hi there i was always told the mortar should never be harder than the product being layed to alow it to move the same as the product so if it was sandstone i would say 5 parts sand and 1 part cement still will be strong enough. many thanks sean

2011-02-17T18:28:28+00:00

Answered 17th Feb 2011

D M Allanson

Malton • Member since 6 Dec 2010 •
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In my opinion the best mortar to use for this is NHL 5, 2 soft sand and 1 sharp. NHL lime is different to hydrated lime in that it sets to a strength over a period of around a month. Putting hydrated in any cement mortar offers no additional movement or breathability because it is countered by the cement. Cement soaks up water and holds it and will over time cause the stone to erode. 90% of our work is of a traditional nature so can vouch for this mortar, the only thing regarding this mortar in order for it to remain solid when finished it needs to be compacted i recommend you build the wall leaving all joints flush and then beat the mortar with a churn brush when nearly dry.

Regards

Darren Allanson

2011-02-28T22:10:02+00:00

Answered 28th Feb 2011

HMC Locksmiths

Chigwell • Member since 11 Feb 2009 •

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I disagree with Nick. External walls are prone to drastic temperature changes and extreme amounts of moisture. So the cement binding the stone should be more flexible. I recommend a 1:1:3 mix – cement, lime, sand

Lime has benefits because of its flexibility and its porosity; it helps moisture that has penetrated a wall to evaporate. Lime is also less prone to crack than cement. Lime helps to repair fine cracks by allowing carbon dioxide to penetrate which then reacts with free lime to harden and close the cracks.

2011-02-17T18:28:26+00:00

Answered 17th Feb 2011

L J Fletcher Builders Ltd

Maidstone • Member since 10 Oct 2010 •

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I personally would use hydrated lime with sharp sand for a grey colour stone so that you don’t need to use cement as the lime will harden over time but will still be able to breathe. If the stone is over a lighter or yellow colour then try using a washed sand to match the stone colour. Try 4 and 1 as the gauge you will still be able to point this up the next day or brush it off to get an old authentic look to the stone.

2011-02-18T20:55:02+00:00

Answered 18th Feb 2011

jd kent

Chorley • Member since 14 Jun 2008 •

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4 to 1 mix is far too strong. a 6 or 8 to 1 with an added 1 part lime is perfect for stone. in your case i would go for 6 sand, 1 cement, 1 lime. make your mix stiffer than brickwork mortar and keep your joints as small as possible, fill all joints as you go. at the end of the day scratch off the joints flush and brush with a soft brush.

2011-02-17T19:00:02+00:00

Answered 17th Feb 2011

Lyons Stonemason

Somerset • Member since 15 Oct 2015 •
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In my opinion do not use a cement based mix, as previously mentioned this is due to the fact that cement does not have any type of breathability. This usually causes any moisture trapped in the wall to be vented through the stone, this then causes the stone to erode through moisture transportation and the process known as freeze thaw. Lime also survives and weathers a lot longer than cement, I have worked on a 1500 year old clapper bridge where the mortar was still bedding the stones satisfactorily.

If the stone is of a very hard and dense nature you can use a NHL 5 lime. However usually I find a NHL 3.5 is preferable mixed with a 2.5 sand to 1 lime ratio. Usually the sand is 2 parts coarse (ish) building sand and half part fine sand. Different colours can be achieved by using different sand colours

2015-10-20T13:30:02+01:00

Answered 20th Oct 2015

B J D BUILDING/ROOFING

Cheltenham • Member since 29 Oct 2008 •

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I would use a 4/5 soft yellow building sand to 1 part cement.

Reason is you state it is a wall/garden feature, if you have soil behind it or below it wont last long with lime in the mix.

Soft yellow sand wont be much stronger than the stone.

We use lime in stone work above dpc

Walcrete was phased out because it contained lime and people were using it below ground,and not cement.

These are my preferences, but different parts of the country have different types of sand, stone, as mentioned there is nothing wrong with adding coarse sand or plastering sand, but I wouldnt add lime to be used below or against ground.

2011-02-19T16:00:02+00:00

Answered 19th Feb 2011

createascape

Penffordd • Member since 26 Jul 2010 •
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If you are not putting in a footing go for a lime based mortar ,it will take longer to set but will allow movement ,I would use a 4 sand (as sharpe as you like for texture) 1 lime if you like add 1/2 of cement to aid setting, dont make it any stronger or you are defeating the point of lime but you will need to protect from frost till it sets. if using a footing (on concrete) 5 sand 1 cement if you dont mind cracks over time but dont make a wet mix it only needs to be damp enough to hold together when squeezed in your hand

2011-02-18T11:35:02+00:00

Answered 18th Feb 2011

kentish builder

Canterbury Kent • Member since 14 Jul 2009 •

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has with all stones they are different mixtures.everyone uses lime in mixes ,but depends where the wall is being built.if in a garden then use lime in your mix.i would,t use a lime mix if it was on a main drag roadway,because it would,t take long to start corroding pretty quick,so look where it is going to be built then you can judge what mix is ok,thanks nick

2011-02-19T10:25:03+00:00

Answered 19th Feb 2011

northview property mainenance

Kent • Member since 13 Sep 2010 •

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sharp sand and cement 4:1 and add waterproofer with built in hardener. it will last forever and you will be able to jetwash it as well.

2011-02-17T23:21:53+00:00

Answered 17th Feb 2011

R.Hughes Building and Conservation Ltd

Wellingborough • Member since 25 Feb 2009 •

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Nice well graded aggregate with an nhl 3.5 will be fine. Mix at 2.5 sand to 1 lime.

2017-01-31T20:50:02+00:00

Answered 31st Jan 2017

Louis Kingwill

Bath • Member since 2 Dec 2009 •

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Allanson knows his stuff, I agree. Good luck.

2011-05-03T09:05:02+01:00

Answered 3rd May 2011

Hortos Landscaping

Wrexham • Member since 7 Nov 2017 •

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Darren Allanson has the right answer.

2018-05-09T20:50:01+01:00

Answered 9th May 2018

Atum Stone

Bath • Member since 12 Nov 2019 •

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I mean I’m quite shocked at some of the answers on this thread. And especially the top rated answer for stone generally speaking cement is too hard for most.

3.5 nhl is fine for generally all building purposes when it comes to stone.

It’s the general standard. At a 4 to 1 ratio (3.5nhl over time due to hardeners kn the mortar goes off as hard as cement) so to the person above mentioning about a cement lime and hardener mix do not do that! Like seriously don’t.

Unless your in harsher climates nhl 5 is for limecrete not building.

Nhl 2 is absolutely fine for building it has the same compressive strength just has barely any hardener but it does go off over a longer time. And nhl 2 is the general standard for conservation purposes.

3.5 if your doing garden walling you will be more than fine just make sure to cover when it’s below 3 degrees during curing time.

I haven’t gone into immense depth because you can easily find this information online. Where some of this advice above is so very wrong

2022-01-26T13:45:03+00:00

Answered 26th Jan 2022

N, O, S, or M

Understanding the Differences for Your Next Project

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The Spruce

Mortar is the element that bonds bricks or other masonry units together and provides structural capacity to the wall or other structure. There are four main types of mortar mix: N, O, S, and M. Each type is mixed with a different ratio of cement, lime, and sand to produce specific performance characteristics such as flexibility, bonding properties, and compressive strength. The best type of mortar and its use depends on the application and the various design specifications for the masonry construction project.

Tip

Mortar material is made with Portland cement, hydrated lime, and sand combined in specific proportions to meet required specifications.

Thinset mortar is a moisture-resistant adhesive made of Portland cement, water, and fine sand, which is used with projects involving cement board, shower tile, backsplashes, and shower pans.

Type N Mortar Mix

Type N mortar is usually recommended on exterior and above-grade walls (including stone veneer) that are exposed to severe weather and high heat. Type N mortar mix has a medium compressive strength and it is composed of 1 part Portland cement, 1 part lime, and 6 parts sand. It is considered to be a general-purpose mix, useful for above grade, exterior, and interior load-bearing installations. It is also the preferred mortar mix for soft stone masonry (such as limestone). Type N is the mortar most often used by homeowners and is the best choice for general application. It typically achieves 28-day strength in the range of 750 pounds per square inch (psi).

Tip

It’s good practice to apply a roll-on waterproofing membrane to seal masonry work once completed.

Type O Mortar Mix

Type O mortar mix has relatively low compressive strength, at only about 350 psi. It is used primarily for interior, above-grade, non-load–bearing walls. Type O can be used as an alternative to Type N for some interior applications, but its exterior use is limited due to its low structural capacity. It is not recommended in areas subjected to high winds. However, type O mortar mix is ideal for repointing and similar repair work on existing structures, due to its consistency and ease of application.

Type S Mortar Mix

Offering a high compressive strength of over 1,800 psi and high-tensile bond strength, type S mortar is suitable for many projects at or below grade. It performs extremely well to withstand soil pressure and wind and seismic loads. Type S is the common choice for many below-grade applications, such as masonry foundations, manholes, retaining walls, and sewers, as well as at-grade projects like brick patios and walkways. Although type S mortar must have a minimum compressive strength of 1,800 psi, it is often mixed for strengths between 2,300 and 3,000 psi.

Tip

If you are working with glass block, you will need a special white glass block mortar. Though technically it is considered a type S mortar, it is specially formulated to exceed the strength requirements of type S mortar for this type of project.

Type M Mortar Mix

Type M mortar mix has the highest amount of Portland cement and is recommended for heavy loads and below-grade applications, including foundations, retaining walls, and driveways. While type M mortar provides at least 2,500 psi of compressive strength, it offers relatively poor adhesion and sealing properties, making it unsuitable for many exposed applications. Type M is preferred for use with natural stone because it offers similar strength to that of stone.

Tip

If you’re working on a project such as a fire pit, fireplace, or chimney, you will need to use a special high heat mortar, also known as refractory mortar, which is formulated to handle high temperatures.

Type K Mortar Mix

Type K mortar is rarely used for new construction but may be specified for restoration or other specialty applications. It offers a very low compressive strength of only about 75 psi. Because of its softness, type K is primarily used for restoring the masonry on historic or ancient buildings that require a special mix that is not significantly stronger than the existing masonry.

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Water Repellants for Concrete Masonry Walls. National Concrete Masonry Association.

Mortar Mixing Tips and Amounts

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Updated on 02/06/22

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Mortar mix is a critically important building component that must be combined thoroughly. Mortar is the bonding material between bricks, concrete block, stone, and many other masonry materials. It is made from Portland cement, lime, sand, and water in varying ratios. Each of the standard mortar mixes—Types N, M, S, and O—has different performance characteristics for different building applications.

Mortar Mixing Procedure

Mortar is mixed on-site in a mechanical mixer but can be mixed in smaller amounts by hand, using a hoe and a mixing tub or wheelbarrow.

Use a dry bucket to measure out the materials.
Pre-wet mortar containers before filling them with fresh mortar.
Prepare a container with a flat, solid surface base and tall sides for mixing mortar, if mixing by hand.
Add the masonry cement, lime, and sand in the appropriate amounts to your mixing container, then add water on top of the dry ingredients.
Fold the mortar mix from the bottom into the water, when mixing by hand. Keep mixing until the water is mixed in. Then, add more water and keep mixing. Keep adding water until the mortar attains a smooth consistency.
Stop mixing when the mortar is wet enough to slip easily off the shovel but holds its shape if you make a hollow in the mix. Mortar has attained the correct viscosity when you can make a few ledges in the mortar mix and ledges stand up.

Mortar Mixing Tips

A few pro tips can ensure the best results when mixing mortar. First, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves when mixing mortar. Always use clean tools to ensure no unexpected (and unwanted) materials end up in the mix.

Each type of mortar mix contains different quantities of material. Be sure to use the correct type of mortar mix for the application. It is best to use fresh cement (unopened bags) when mixing mortar. Cement bags that are opened tend to absorb environmental humidity, thus changing the water percentage of the mortar mix.

Mortar is good for 90 minutes. After that time, discard the mortar because it starts to lose some of its characteristics. Also, weather can affect how mortar reacts and how manageable it can be, so plan accordingly.

Successful mortar mixing relies on consistency. Try to use the same materials and use the exact amount of material batch after batch. You can use a pail or bucket to make sure you are using the same amount of material for subsequent batches. Mix mortar for not less than three minutes and not more than five minutes after the last materials have been introduced into the mixer or tub. When hand-mixing, be sure to add all components before adding the water.

If the mortar starts to dry during application, add more water. Do not add water once the mortar begins to set. You can add chemical plasticizers or masonry cement to improve the workability of the mixture. Waterproofing agents may be added to mortar for brick fences to prevent damp. To color mortar, add dye before mixing the mortar.

Use a good grade of fine sand in your mortar mix. The sand should be free of clay material; otherwise, it will create a paste that could expand and contract as the water dries up. Cover the sand during storage so it does not absorb water, which could change your mortar mix water requirements.

Portland cement is recommended for mixing mortar.

Mortar Mix Problems

It is important to understand that once the mix starts to set, it cannot be re-mixed because it will reduce the mortar’s strength. Also, if too much water is added to the mix, it affects the chemical composition of the mortar, reducing its strength and potentially causing problems in the future. Adding the wrong admixture, such as dishwashing soap, also will affect the bonding and strength capabilities of the mortar mix.

Tip

Many types of pre-packaged mortar mixes have admixtures that are activated once they are mixed.

Mortar Mix Ratios

Ingredients for mortar mixes typically are specified by volume, in cubic feet (cu ft). The standard ratios for a yield of 1 cubic yard of the following mortar types are:

Type N

Portland cement: 3.375 cu ft
Hydrated lime: 3.375 cu ft
Sand 20.25: cu ft

Type M

Portland cement: 5.0625 cu ft
Hydrated lime: 1.6875 cu ft
Sand: 20.25 cu ft

Type S

Portland cement: 4.5 cu ft
Hydrated lime: 2.25 cu ft
Sand: 20.25 cu ft

Type O

Portland cement: 2. 25 cu ft
Hydrated lime: 4.5 cu ft
Sand: 20.25 cu ft

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The Differences Between Grout and Mortar

It’s easy to confuse the terms grout and mortar since both are used for setting tile and other types of masonry materials.

With some overlap in cementitious ingredients, grout and mortar do share a few properties. But largely, grout and mortar should not be used interchangeably. They are designed for different uses since they have different compressive strength levels, textures, appearances, and makeup.

What Are Grout and Mortar?

Grout is used for filling joints or seams between tiles, and mortar is used as a bonding agent underneath the tiles. For stone, brick, and other masonry materials except for tiles, mortar is used both as a bonding agent and as a filler for joints.

What Is Grout?

Grout fills and firms up the spaces between tiles. Grout helps to hold the tile in place (though most of this is done by the mortar, underneath). It prevents water from seeping between and below tiles, and it also makes tiles easier to clean because debris can’t settle in the joints.

By bridging from one tile to the next, grout prevents chips and cracks from developing along the edges. When color-fast pigment is added, grout becomes a part of tile’s overall look.

Grout is made of high-strength Portland cement, graded aggregates, polymers for pliability, and pigments for color and style.

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Types of Grout

Sanded Grout: Sanded grout feels slightly gritty because it contains sand for improved bonding. Use only for tile joints 1/8 inch or wider.
Unsanded Grout: Unsanded grout doesn’t feel gritty because it doesn’t contain sand. It does have fine minerals, though. Use unsanded grout for tile joints less than 1/8 inch wide.
Epoxy Grout: Epoxy grout has no mineral content. Because epoxy grout is waterproof, it does not need to be sealed. Use for thin joints 1/8 inch or less.

Uses for Grout

Fills tile joints to prevent water and debris from settling in
Provides some lateral structural support to tiles
Bridges between tiles, limiting damage
Adds a decorative touch to tile

Mix the dry grout with water or use pre-mixed containers of grout. After the tile has set, spread the grout across the surface of the tile with a rubber tile float, running the float diagonal to the tile.

What Is Mortar?

Mortar is a bonding agent for tile, brick, natural stone, manufactured veneer stone, and other masonry products.

Masonry mortar, a mixture of coarse sand, Portland cement, and lime, is used for laying brick and stone. A different kind of mortar, thinset, is a mix of cement, polymers, water retention compound, and a very fine grade of sand.

Easy to work with and smooth, thinset is formulated for bonding tiles to plywood, cement board, concrete, and other substrates. Thinset is also used for bonding cement board to wood substrate materials such as plywood (along with metal fasteners).

Types of Mortar

Thinset Mortar: Used underneath tiles, whether on the floor or on the wall
Type-S Mortar: For laying brick and stone; tuck-pointing
Type N Mortar: A general-purpose mortar for exterior and above-grade walls
Type O Mortar: Used mainly indoors for non-load-bearing applications due to its low compressive strength
Type M Mortar: A heavy-duty mortar used for below-grade applications such as foundations and for heavy loads
Type K Mortar: Soft mortar with very low compressive strength used for decorative applications

Uses for Mortar

Laying brick for walkways
Laying brick for structural applications
Load-bearing walls
Planters
Chimneys
Tuck-pointing
Veneer stone on walls
Applying a scratch coat

All mortar, except for thinset, comes only in dry form and must be mixed with water. Generally, an 80-pound bag of mortar mixed with 5 liters of water is sufficient to lay 35 bricks or 10 square feet of manufactured veneer stone.

Thinset mortar comes in both dry and premixed forms. A 50-pound bag of dry thinset mortar mixed with 6 quarts of water is enough to lay 75 to 80 square feet of tile. Premixed thinset mortar is more expensive but it offers the benefits of convenience and predictable mixture ratios.

Can You Use Grout and Mortar Interchangeably?

Grout and mortar should not be used interchangeably. Since both are formulated for specific uses, there is almost no overlap in function. Also, most tile manufacturers will recommend a mortar or grout, and because many tiles require specific types of mortar or grout for proper installation, you won’t have much of a choice between the two.

When tile is pressed too hard into thinset mortar or when the mortar is overly thick, the thinset may squeeze up between the tiles, becoming an incidental type of grout. Having a few spots of thinset between tiles is acceptable. The thinset should never rise to the level of the tile, as this would prevent grout from covering it over.

Usually, it’s best to scrape out as much of the excess thinset as possible before it hardens. Use an old screwdriver, extra tile spacer, or wet tiling sponge.

How to Repoint Brick Mortar

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ClarkandCompany / Getty Images

When your brick mortar is cracked, it is more than just unsightly. Water can work its way into the cracks, then freeze, expand, and separate the cracks even more. Sometimes, the brick mortar isn’t just cracked: it is gone, having crumbled and fallen out over time. The inexpensive, traditional way of curing this is to repoint your brick.

While it sounds much like a task reserved only for masons, repointing brick mortar isn’t all that mysterious or difficult. In fact, you only need a few basic tools and some mortar.

What Brick Repointing Is

Mortar is the filling between bricks that holds bricks in place. When the brick is originally laid, one of the last steps is to point the brick. Pointing the brick means grooving out the mortar and remove excess.

Repointing the brick mortar means to chip out the old mortar and replace it with new mortar. The reason the process is called pointing—or repointing, in this case—is because you use a pointed trowel.

Safety Considerations

If working on a brick chimney, use a fall arrestor or fall restraint system. Due to the loose mortar and dropcloth, it can be easy to trip and fall off of the roof. Wear safety glasses when raking (or chipping away) the old mortar.

Pre-mixed mortar often contains hydrated lime which is caustic to the skin. Gloves should be used when working with mortar.

Tools and Materials

Joint raker or old screwdriver
Hammer
Chisel
Wire brush
Garden hose attached to a faucet
Pointing trowel
Margin trowel
Hawk
Mortar
Cloth dropcloth
Safety glasses

Instructions

Rake the Brick

Raking the brick is a mason’s term that means is to scrape out the worst of the mortar so that you will have a substantial base on which to place the new mortar. It is necessary to rake the brick mortar before repointing.

Spread a cloth drop cloth below the brick surface.
Use a joint raker or an old screwdriver to scrape out loose, crumbly mortar. The aim is not to remove all of the mortar but only to catch the high spots that are loose and weakened.
Switch to the hammer and an old chisel or screwdriver. Gently knock out any stray pieces that you could not get with the joint scraper.
Finish off with a wire brush to remove the remaining crumbs.
If you encounter any cracked bricks along the way, you can remove them individually and replace them.

Tip

The mortar should have a firm consistency, much like peanut butter. You should be able to press your thumb into the mortar, with the thumb print remaining.

Repoint Bricks

Mix up the mortar in a bucket with the margin trowel. Don’t mix up a lot of mortar, in order to keep the mortar from drying up on you.
After mixing the mortar, let it sit for about 30 to 45 minutes (called “slaking”).
Mix the mortar again slightly. Do not add more water after slaking, as it will diminish the strength.
Spray down the bricks and mortar with a garden hose.
Let the water soak into the bricks for about 15 minutes.
Scoop some mortar onto the hawk. Keep the amount small: just about a baseball-sized mound of mortar.
Hold the hawk below the brick, just under the area that will be repointed.
With the pointing trowel, scoop up a small amount of mortar and press in the new mortar.
As mortar drops down, mix it back into the original mound on the hawk and reuse it on the brick.
Before leaving an area, use the pointing trowel to create a groove in the mortar with the hawk underneath to catch remnants.

Tips For Repointing Bricks

Work only in small sections to avoid having the mortar dry up on you before you can point it.
When raking the brick, have the garden hose near you (if working on exterior wall brick) and frequently mist the brick to keep the dust down.
Also when raking, if it’s hard to chip away parts of the mortar, that likely means that the mortar is good enough to remain.
Take it slow and be patient. Repointing bricks is interesting for the first few bricks, then the work becomes tedious.
If working on a large project, set small goals for yourself every day. Set your mind on getting that whole wall done over a course of weeks or months, instead of a weekend.
Be careful not to chip or gouge the brick.
Repoint the brick in temperatures between 40 and 90 degrees F. When the mortar gets too cold, it becomes brittle. When the mortar is too hot, it dries out quickly.

Mortar Mix: How to Choose

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mortar mix is traditionally used to fill the gaps between bricks and stone work when building.

Often the type of mortar used for building was dictated by what was available locally so the local sand quarry would produce a particular colour and that’s what the buildings in that area would use.

A good example of this is in the Cotswolds where the predominant colour is that lovely honey hue seen on tv and in magazines.

(MORE: Types of Brick)

However, as those local quarries have closed and sand production has become more efficient, it has become viable for merchants to stock sand and aggregate from all over the country.

Remember – some authorities are very strict on what you can use to try and protect the local vernacular but others have been less so giving you a much larger choice so always check first.

(MORE: Inspiring modern brick designs)

Mortar Mix Types

The type of mortar used can have a massive effect not only on the finished look of a brick or stone building but also on the speed at which it is built.

When doing restoration or heritage work it has become clear that cement-based mortars are not suitable, so traditional lime-based mortars are the best choice for these, however, lime takes a lot longer than cement to harden so tradesmen have to wait for previous work to go off before they can build any higher.

This can have a huge knock on effect on a project so it’s easy to understand why cement became so popular.

(MORE: Render Repair)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Choosing a Mortar Mix Colour

Ask your builder to build several small brick sample walls so that you can compare mortar colours against the bricks

The look can also change dramatically depending on the way it is pointed and the colour used. Most commonly a pointing iron will be used giving a shallow dished look with the edges flush.

A raking tool can be used to give a recessed look. Sometimes a bucket handle could create a tramline effect. Victorians used to use a very fine bed of lime mortar and strike it flush.

The Victorians had another idea when it came to colour, to use the piles of ash that were a by-product of the many steam engines of the era as an additive to the lime and sand to make it go further.

This was quite common right up to the sixties although most new building was being done with cement and sand from the thirties onward.

If you are embarking on a project with face brick or stonework then the colour of the mortar is a crucial part of creating the overall look.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

5 Colour Rules To Remember

There are several types of sand and the ratios at which they are mixed with each other and the cement or lime, or both, all have an effect on the finished colour as well as the workability for the bricklayer and the ultimate strength of the bond.
Once you have settled on a ratio that gives you all the characteristics you are after you must stick to it, even down to the manufacturer of the cement!
Colours vary a lot between the different makes even though they are all OPC (ordinary Portland cement) which is supposed to mimic the Portland stone colour found on the south coast.
Changing colour halfway through what would otherwise be a really tidy job because the contractor or client has been unable or unwilling to source the correct ingredients is a huge red flag and in these current times it is worth checking the future availability of preferred materials before starting the job!

Getting the Right Mortar Mix Consistency

Expert Advice

If the sand is dry, put the water in first then the cement and lime, wait for the mixture to become smooth then add the sand bucket by bucket – mix as you go. If the sand is wet put in half of the sand in first, then the cement/lime, the rest of the sand and then add water a little at a time.

Ratios then are key to a consistent mortar mix so it is important to be accurate!

The most common mix for blockwork is: 4-1, that is four parts sand to one part cement but there are variations.

For instance if you are using a softer brick then 5-1 or 6-1-1(six sand, one cement, one lime) may be more suitable.

If you are mixing different sands to create a colour then you will need to experiment to get the effect you are after but the golden rule is pails or buckets to measure the ratios not shovels.

It is not possible to get shovelfuls accurate enough for brickwork – buckets should be filled to the top and levelled so that each one is identical, ideally using enough buckets to do the entire mix before you start so that you can’t lose count.

If you are matching an existing mortar you may need to make several test mixes using beakers to measure ratios and allow them to cure before comparing.

(MORE: Bricklayers – how to find the right one)

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Mortar Mix and Restorations

Sealing moisture into a solid wall can cause a whole catalogue of problems. It also can cause the external brick or stonework damage. So always make sure your bricks are dry.

Cement-based mortars are unsuitable for restoration work and this is because solid walls need to breathe to dispel moisture.

Brick or stonework that was originally built with lime mortar and then repointed with a cement mortar has caused damage to buildings that would never have happened had they used lime.

Traditionally if a soft brick or stone was used then the lime mortar was still the softest component so as the wall weathered the mortar wore away leaving the brick or stone intact.

If these were then repointed with a cement based mortar then the brick or stone became the softest component and had to take up and release the moisture instead of the lime.

This has caused serious damage to some properties added to which the cement pointing is a lot more difficult to remove without causing even more damage.

Bruce is a third generation builder, based in the South West, with over 30 years’ experience in the building industry. He specialises in new build homes, extension and renovation projects, and his even built homes for self build industry guru David Snell. Bruce has recently completed his latest self build.

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Mortar for brickwork: proportions and preparation

Brick buildings have not lost their relevance for many years due to their reliability and long service life.

Masonry mortar must adhere well to the surface and retain its properties for a long time.

Many people think that a cement mixture is the only possible way to connect masonry elements. In fact, there are alternative options for solutions, each of which has unique properties.

Content

Mortar types
Mortar requirements
Ingredient proportions
Characteristics of cement grades
Determine the mobility of the mixture
Mortar preparation rules
Material consumption

Mortar types

Consider the types of solutions and their characteristics in the table:

Type of solution	Characteristic	Proportions
Lime based mixture	Produced by thoroughly mixing sand and quicklime. The components are dry mixed, then water is added. The solution is stirred until a mass of homogeneous consistency is formed. They have high plasticity, are easy to fit and do not let the cold through them. If lumps have formed, the lime mixture is sifted through a sieve.	1 part lime, 3 parts sand
Cement mortar	Made from sand-cement mixture. The mixture adheres well to the surface. But it is too rigid, therefore, during operation, it begins to crumble under mechanical and natural influences.	1 part cement, 3 parts sand
Lime-cement mixture	We prepare the lime mixture according to the consistency, like homemade milk. Strain the solution through a sieve. Add the remaining lime in the sieve to the cement mortar. Such a composition is distinguished by the best qualities: it adheres strongly to the brick, has sufficient plasticity.	1 part lime, 1 part cement, 5 parts sand
Clay mix	Made from clay and sand. To increase strength, you can add 100 – 250 gr to a bucket of mortar. salt or 750 gr. cement.	2 parts clay, 1 part sand

Mortar for brickwork is selected depending on the mass of the building and its operating conditions. The durability of the building depends on the quality of the brickwork mortar used.

Solution requirements

The mixture must be plastic

If the mixture is not prepared correctly, it will reduce the durability of the building.

Requirements:

A quality compound must be of such a consistency that it fills all voids, cracks, chips in bricks, except for voids in hollow material.
Sufficiently plastic mixture will not break down when exposed to negative factors.
The composition should not set quickly in order to have time to use the entire prepared volume before it thickens.

Plasticity and strength depend on the proportions of the materials used and the correct preparation.

Component proportions

To prepare the mixture, use the

Construction Mixer. Mortar preparation has never been considered a complex construction operation, it is done by auxiliary workers. But if the technology and proportions of the mixed components are violated, its quality will suffer significantly.

The preparation of a quality brickwork composition is one of the important stages in construction. The ratio of components is determined depending on the number of storeys and the type of building, the type of soil, and other factors.

Consider in the table the proportions of the components for different grades of cement:
1 M 500 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 2/10 lime. 2 M 400 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 3/10 lime. 3 M 300 1 part cement, 3.5 parts sand, 2/10 lime.

The optimal ratio of water for cement-sand mortar is 0. 8 parts water to 1 part cement. For 1 part of cement grade M 100, 0.5-0.7 parts of water are used. Water should be at room temperature.

We mix the dry mixture with water using a drill with a special nozzle or a construction mixer. If a large volume of mortar is required, it is better to use a concrete mixer.

Characteristics of cement grades

Grades of cement are determined by the strength of setting with the surface and the ability to withstand mechanical stress.

Concrete grade	Application	Cement consumption in kg per 1 cube of concrete
M 100	Minimum strength. It is used when concreting road curbs, fences	165
M 200	Suitable for foundations, brickwork, floor screed.	240
M 300	Used for brickwork, installation of foundations, ceilings, etc.	320
M 400	For the construction of structures subjected to significant loads: bridges bearing supports on overpasses	417

For masonry, it is enough to use cement grades M 50, M100, M 200.

Determine the mobility of the mixture

The mortar must be neither too thin nor too thick.

The ability of a mixture to spread over a surface under its own gravity depends on its composition.

Mobility is determined by immersing the cone in the solution. The deeper the cone goes down, the higher the mobility of the mixture.

The cone must be made 15 cm high at an angle of 30 degrees, its weight must be 300 gr.

Cone immersion rates are discussed in the table:

No.	Masonry type	Cone immersion depth
1	Plain brick	10-12 cm
2	Hollow brick	7-8 cm

When working in hot weather, the mobility of the mixture for hollow bricks is increased to 12 cm of penetration of the cone.

No.	Cement grade	Cone insertion depth
1	M 100	1-4 cm
2	M 200	4-8 cm
3	M 300	8-12 cm
4	M 400	12-14 cm

When preparing the mortar, take into account the weather conditions and the temperature at which the laying is carried out. Also be sure to take into account the type of brick used.

Rules for the preparation of mortar

Sift the sand before kneading it

There are many things to consider before starting to prepare a mortar:

We mix the dry ingredients, then add them to the water, if you do the opposite, they will settle on the bottom and may mix poorly.
We take sand with an average fraction of up to 2.5 mm. Sift before use.
To increase plasticity, add lime, clay, plasticizers. But such additives are not recommended for use when working with hollow material. They tend to fill voids, this reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.
Do not add plasticizers to masonry below the water table.
Cement – sand compositions are used for underground masonry and in water-saturated soil, because they have high strength and resistance to high humidity.
For greater plasticity, add a little washing powder.
Portland slag cement is not used at sub-zero temperatures.
When working in winter, special components are added to lower the freezing point of the masonry compound and accelerate the curing time.

Make sure that the volume of the mix is used up within 1.5-2 hours, otherwise the material will thicken and become unusable.

Material consumption

There are norms for the consumption of cement-sand mixture depending on the thickness of the masonry: m. 1 1 brick 75 liters 2 1.5 bricks 112 – 115 liters 3 2 bricks 150 liters

There are also many different types of ready-made dry mixes on sale, their consumption is indicated on the label.

To calculate the consumption of material, you need to calculate its volume in the brickwork. To do this, we multiply the length by the width and thickness of the cement layer. On average, for each square meter of area, from 0.2 to 0.5 cubic meters is spent. m. solution.

Different types of masonry require different amounts of material. It makes no sense to buy components with a large margin, since cement is not stored for a long time.

The durability and thermal insulation properties of a building depend not only on the building materials used, but also on the quality of the mixture used for brickwork.

proportions, how to make and dilute

Cement-sand mixture – the most popular and sought-after solution for repair and construction work, which consists of cement of a certain brand, clean sand and water. Such mixtures are usually used for facing works, plastering, masonry, pouring thin-layer screed and other types of work.

The main parameters that cement mixtures of this type must comply with are the exact composition, proportions, strength, frost resistance, preparation technology, etc. Classification of solutions is carried out according to purpose, type of binder, average density.

In accordance with the purpose, three main types are distinguished – sand-cement mixture for masonry (including mounting screed), plastering, cladding (finishing). Various types of cements can be used as a binder – pozzolanic, sulfate-resistant, Portland slag cement, ordinary Portland cement, etc. The solution can be simple and involve the use of one type of cement or complex and include several types of binder.

In terms of density, cement mortar with sand can be heavy (from 1500 kg/m3) or light (up to 1500 kg/m3). Density affects thermal conductivity (higher for heavy mixtures) and the level of frost resistance (lighter ones are less resistant).

Quality indicators for fresh PCS:

Water holding capacity
Mobility
Density
Delamination
Operating temperature

For a hardened monolith, properties such as resistance to frost and sudden changes in temperature, resistance to aggressive media, density and strength are important.

Any sand-cement mixture consists of a certain brand of binder and aggregate in the form of sand of one or another grain size, fraction, purity (sand is chosen in accordance with the purpose of the mixture). In order to improve the performance characteristics, plasticizers and modifiers of organic or mineral origin (in the amount of 2-10%) can be introduced into the composition, often different polymers, fly ash, cellulose, microsilica, etc. act as them.

Mixing water is selected in accordance with the requirements for chemical composition, content of fats, suspended solids, oil/petroleum products, surfactants, etc. Usually they use technical, drinking, ground, sea water, but it is forbidden to use peat, swamp, waste water.

Before making a mortar of cement and sand, it is necessary to determine the scope of application, since the proportions differ significantly. DSP for brickwork is considered the most popular: cement-sand mortar is used in the creation of load-bearing walls, and internal – with the addition of lime.

The composition of the cement mortar to a large extent depends on the working conditions, operation. If the work is carried out in frost, then special antifreeze additives are introduced into the composition, which do not allow the CPS to freeze. But they are suitable for work in frost below -20 degrees (it is better to do nothing at all, but wait for warming), since they will not be sufficiently elastic and mobile.

If the cement mortar is prepared for use in monolithic hearths with an open fire source, in the construction of a furnace or firebox, then heat-resistant fire-resistant mixtures are created: from cement grade at least M400, with crushed brick, fireclay fine sand.

For each type of task and working conditions, a solution is prepared from basic materials, but in different proportions and with the addition of additives, plasticizers. As a rule, additives change one parameter – it can be the speed of solidification, mobility, frost resistance, etc. Each master determines the priorities and performs calculations before preparing the cement slurry.

Composition types and requirements

Despite the fact that cement and sand are included in any DSP composition, the final characteristics of the solution can vary greatly. The main parameter is strength, which depends on the ratio of components. The level of strength and resistance of the cement-sand mixture to various influences depends on the scope of the solution. Therefore, for various jobs, the DSP mixture is prepared according to a specific recipe.

Types

The proportion of cement and sand affects the characteristics of the mixture. As a rule, in ordinary solutions one brand of cement is used. But the brand of cement is not equal to the brand of mortar. So, from cement M400, you can make a cement-sand mortar M150 or M300, taking a binder in a certain volume. On the other hand, for the preparation of concrete of the desired grade, cement takes brands an order of magnitude higher. The binder is supplied in bags of 25 kg or 50 kg.

Main brands of cement-sand mixtures:

M100 – the highest strength, from cement M200-M500, with a certain amount of sand.
M200 is the most common type of mixture, relevant for creating coatings and paths in everyday life, withstanding light loads, drying quickly and not demanding on conditions.
M300 – floor slabs are made from mortar, foundations of good strength.
M400 – durable concrete, prepared on the basis of M400 / M500 cement, is used for multi-storey construction, reinforced concrete floor slabs, etc.
M500 – the most durable concrete that is used in private housing construction (there are also grades M600, M700, but they are prepared for special objects). Withstands high loads, retains its original properties for many years, is not afraid of external negative factors.

In addition to the above, there are also intermediate grades – this can be a cement-sand mixture M 150, M250, M350, etc. But their characteristics do not differ significantly from those of concrete of the main grades.

Additives

Before diluting cement with sand (choose the correct proportions, measure everything), you should think about the possibility of using additives that change the properties of the mixture. Additives are introduced into the composition to adapt the mixture to the desired conditions, increase / decrease certain indicators. So, using additives, you can even get liquid glass used for plaster.

Dry cement mixes, as a rule, do not need to be finished, but they are also more expensive. But if it was decided to implement the preparation of DSPs on their own, then a list of possible additives and their properties will come in handy.

What can be added to the sand-cement mixture:

PVA – makes the mortar more plastic and improves adhesion with other materials. Before starting work, you need to choose the right proportions for the cement mortar.
Lime – only slaked lime is used. The additive slightly increases strength and vapor permeability, but requires strict adherence to the ratios. Most often, lime is added to plaster solutions.
Graphite and carbon black – do not affect the physical properties of DSP, but are relevant in the form of dyes.
Detergents – improve the plasticity of the solution, are introduced into the mixture after water in the exact proportion.

Additives should be considered before mixing, as not all substances can be added after being added to the water composition – some only at the stage of mixing the dry components.

Sand to cement ratio

High-quality and appropriate cement-sand mixture can be prepared at home. The main thing is to know what it is for and clearly follow the recommendations.

Brickwork

The recipe for this mixture is quite simple. However, the most popular type of DSP is masonry. For the mixture, they take a binder grade up to M400, sand of medium fraction (up to 2 millimeters) and as dry as possible.

Basic proportions of cement and sand:

1:5 – M25 solution
1:4 – mix M50
1:3 – DSP M75

For particularly strong load-bearing walls, brick is placed on M50/M75, where the volume of sand is reduced and cement is increased. In addition, these solutions are used to make columnar foundations, in conditions of high humidity, to create houses from clinker bricks. The remaining tasks are performed from a mixture of M25. How to knead this type of cement mortar is below.

Composition of the mixture per 1m3 of masonry:

268 kilograms of cement
1064 kilograms of sand
250 liters of water

Mix everything and work can begin.

Concrete preparation

For the preparation of concrete, coarse aggregates are additionally used to ensure a sufficient level of mortar strength. In the batch, a ready-made dry mix or various components in the required volumes can be used. In addition, today in Moscow and the regions the right amount of concrete can be ordered with delivery from the factory to the site.

The technical characteristics of concrete directly depend on the quality and properties of materials, their proportions.

It is very important not to save on cement – if you plan to prepare a mortar M300 / M400, choose M500 cement. The brand of cement is always higher. After all, even if you take cement of a lower brand, but in large volume, the quality of concrete will still suffer.

Coarse aggregates (crushed stone, gravel) are used to strengthen the material. The standard formula for the preparation of durable concrete is as follows: 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone, 0.5 parts water. When introduced into the composition of additives, the volumes of the components may change.

For plaster and floor screed

Thinking about how to make a cement mortar for screed and plaster, it is worth remembering that we are talking about different properties. The floors are poured with relatively liquid solutions, while thick mixtures of pure sand, cement and water are prepared for plastering. The density of the mixture for plaster depends on many factors.

The most commonly used ratio in the preparation of plaster is 1 part cement to 5 parts sand with enough water to achieve the desired consistency.

For screeds, stronger mixtures are prepared, as they must withstand certain loads. Here you will need a TsPS 150 brand at least, but it is better to make a cement-sand mortar M200 and higher. Materials must demonstrate a threshold strength of at least 10 MPa.

To understand how to properly dilute cement, you need to consider the conditions of work and operation. So, if the mixture is used to mask various utilities, it may be thicker. But to level the surface and strengthen the floor, liquid DSPs are used. The thicker the layer, the higher the grade of concrete should be.

When a cement-sand mixture is used, material consumption plays a major role and it is important to calculate it before starting work. Calculations are based on the cubature of the site/room. Measurements are performed with a tape measure, multiply the width by the length and get the area. Next, take the depth of the layer and calculate how much you need to fill the mixture. On average, for a screed 10 centimeters thick, you need 50 kilograms of M400 solution per square meter.

To perform individual calculations, the values are converted to cubature to calculate the consumption of cement-sand mixture per 1m2.

Performing calculations:

For a room of 100 square meters and a screed 10 centimeters (0.1 meters) deep, 10 m3 of mortar is required. On average, about 555-713 mixtures are used per 1 m3 (exact data can be found in the instructions on the package) – which means that for 10 cubic meters the indicator must be multiplied by 10. The weight depends on the brand of cement – for a mixture based on M400, the mass is considered to be within 700 kilograms , for the M100 – already 500-600 kilograms.
The consumption of DSP per 1 m2 is almost the same for preparing a solution from a ready-made mixture or individual components. So, if we are talking about the finished mixture, then it contains about 1.4 kilograms (specific gravity) in one liter. Therefore, to fill 10 cubic meters of screed, you will need a dry mix: (10 m3x650kg) x 1. 4 = 9100 kilos. Thus, to fill 10 m3 of the mixture, 9100 kilograms of dry powder or 6500 liters are needed.

For foundation

Considering the types of cement mortars, one should not miss the rules for preparing a mixture for pouring a foundation. The building mixture includes such components: cement, sand, crushed stone, water. The more rubble in the composition, the higher the strength. If you need to increase the elasticity of the mixture, you can add clay to the composition.

The proportion of cement and other components may be different, but there are standard values. The ratio below is based on the calculation of 10 kilograms.

Mixture for foundation pouring:

10 kg of cement
30 kg sand
40-50 kg crushed stone/gravel
Water – about half of the total weight of the solution

So, in this example, up to 80-90 kilograms of dry mixture is obtained, which means that you need to take about 40-45 liters of water. Upon receipt of a very dense solution, you can immediately dilute it with water, but you should not make it very liquid. Before you mix cement with sand, you need to study some of the nuances.

Things to remember:

If the sand is wet, there is moisture in it – the material must be dried, otherwise add a smaller volume of water to the mixture.
The sand must be clean – the less impurities, the better and faster the binder sets.
Gravel / crushed stone is better to take a fine fraction (about 1-2 centimeters).
Do not purchase cement prior to construction and store it. Over time, the characteristics of the binder change, which affects the strength and density of the cement-sand mixture. If you buy ready-made dry mixes for work, it is also advisable to purchase them a week or two before the start.

How to properly dilute

Before preparing the mixture, you need to learn how to dilute the cement correctly. Changing the order of work and violation of technology entail a decrease in the technical characteristics of the material, which is unacceptable.

How to dilute cement and other components correctly:

Filling the container with one layer of cement, then a layer of sand and alternating until the number of layers reaches a minimum of six. Cement and sand should be poured in the form of beds with a total height of up to 30 centimeters.
Mixing dry ingredients in a container with a shovel until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Sift the composition through a sieve with cells of 3×3 mm. This is necessary to ensure the uniformity of the composition.
After all components are mixed (sand and cement), the mortar can be closed. Water is added carefully and gradually, slowly, completely controlling the level of density of the DSP.

When preparing a mortar, the ratio of sand to cement, the quality of materials and water play a key role. So, it is important to use the liquid at the right temperature – the water should not be very hot and not very cold, as close as possible to the natural environment. The air temperature should be above +5 degrees.

Tips and Tricks

If you are going to prepare a cement-sand mixture, you must immediately decide in what proportion the different components will be taken, what grade of strength is needed, what are the main properties.

It all depends on the scope of the mortar – so, if M50 or M75 is suitable for brickwork, then at least a mixture of M150, 200 and above is prepared for the screed. The composition of any DSP includes cement, sand, water, but the result is different in accordance with the ratio.

A few tips from the masters:

To prepare a plastic mixture, you can add liquid soap to the solution, previously thoroughly mixed with water.
You need to know how to properly dilute cement and other components: first, all dry substances are mixed, then water is added in small portions so that it is possible to control the density of the mixture and achieve the ideal consistency.
When preparing a masonry mortar, take into account the brand of building material from which the walls are built. It is desirable that the parameters match – then the wall will be of a homogeneous structure, reliable and durable.

Before you make your own cement for plaster, you should take care of buying perlite. If you replace part of the sand with it, it will be possible to achieve higher thermal insulation characteristics.
For work only fresh cement is used, without lumps, produced by technology and stored in optimal conditions – in this case, it will be possible to achieve the most uniform mixing and high adhesion.
Detergent or soap is also added to the cement (the proportions remain the same, just the agent is mixed with the mixing water) to increase adhesion.
The solution is best prepared in metal, plastic or wood containers.
To thoroughly clean the sand from impurities that can reduce the strength, you can soak it in water for a short time.
The consistency of the finished cement-sand mixture is usually checked with a trowel: the solution should be evenly distributed over the tool, but not drain in any way (it is worth remembering that this rule works in the preparation of standard mixtures, other properties may be important for some tasks).

Ready DSP is used within an hour after mixing, until the solution begins to thicken and solidify. Therefore, you immediately need to prepare the required volume – exactly as much as you can work out in an hour.
It is forbidden to dilute the already hardened solution with water, as it immediately loses its properties and can cause destruction of the structure / building.
When mixing a mixture in a volume of more than 2 cubic meters, no drills and nozzles will help – only a concrete mixer or ordering the required volume in the factory.
Mortar, which is planned to be used where minimum loads and low mass are noted, can be prepared with a reduced volume of sand. But such an approach is possible only on the condition that before properly kneading the DSP, the master has accurately determined the features of the application and the remnants of the solution will not be used to implement any other tasks.
Mixing the cement-sand mass should last at least 20 minutes – so the solution will be homogeneous and of high quality.
The ratio of the proportions of the components is looked at in GOSTs and SNiPs (the opinion of experienced craftsmen is allowed), as well as in the recommendations of the manufacturer of cement, dry mix, etc.

Cement-sand mixture is a versatile material that can be used to perform a wide range of works, obtaining the most durable and strong structures. Subject to the choice of high-quality materials and compliance with the technology for preparing the mixture for the task, everything can be implemented quickly and easily.

Consumption of building materials calculate the amount and proportions of the mixture of cement – concrete – brick – blocks – sand concrete

Calculate your expenses. All norms and expenses are lower:

1. How many cubes in a bag of dry cement or construction mixture:

in 50kg – 0.038 m3

in 40 kg – 0.03 m3

in 25 kg – 0.019 m3

2. Cement-sand mortar for masonry:

For 1 m2 of brickwork with a masonry thickness of 1 brick, the amount of mortar approaches 75 liters from consumption per 1 m2. If the laying of a brick wall is 1.5 bricks thick, then the amount of mortar will correspond to the figure of 115 liters.

3. Mortar proportions:

4. Stucco mix ratio:

You will need 1 part binder (cement) and 3 parts aggregate.

brick (more precisely 404) – 1 m3 of masonry. The consumption rate of the solution per 1 m3 is 0.23 m3 (in practice, 0.25 is accepted).

6. How to calculate the consumption of sand concrete M – 300 per screed?

Approximate density of concrete mix 1. 7-1.75 kg/cu.dm.

Per 1 m/2 with a thickness of 1 cm = 18-20 kg of mixture (sand concrete M300).

7. Tile adhesive:

The consumption of tile adhesive per 1 m2 of laid tiles is 10 kg. dry mixture with a layer thickness of the finished solution of 10 mm.

8. Adhesive for foam concrete blocks and gas silicate blocks:

The consumption of glue for foam concrete per 1 m3 of laid foam concrete masonry is 40 kg. dry mix

9. Self-levelling floors:

Consumption of self-levelling floors per 1 m2 of ready mortar is 6 kg. dry mix, with a recommended layer thickness of 5 mm.

10. Wall plasters:

The consumption of plaster per 1 m2 of ready mortar is 10 kg. dry mix, with a recommended layer thickness of 10 mm.

11. Wall putties:

The putty consumption per 1 m2 of the finished mortar is 0.9-1. 0 kg. mixtures.

12. Grouts (tile joints):

The grout consumption per 1 m2 of laid tiles is 120 g, with a recommended joint thickness of 2 mm.

13. Universal mixture M-150:

The consumption of the universal mixture M-150 per 1 m3 of the finished solution is 450 kg. dry mix.

14. M-200 masonry mix:

Consumption of M-200 masonry mix per 1 m3 of masonry is 350 kg. dry masonry mix.

15. Waterproofing material (penetrating layer):

Waterproofing consumption per 1 m2 of surface will require 700 gr. dry mixture diluted to the state of sludge for application with a brush (roller).

16. Paints:

Paint consumption per 1 m2 of walls or ceilings at the first application on a primed even surface 0.3 liters, the second coat with correct application 0.2 liters per 1 m2.

17. Polyurethane floors:

The consumption of polyurethane self-leveling floor when applied on a dedusting primer is 1.5 kg per 1 m2 of concrete floor surface, with a thickness of 1 mm.

18. Amount of cement per masonry (consumption of cement per bricklaying):
To prepare 1 m3 of cement mortar, 8 bags of cement, 50 kg each, are needed. and kneaded in proportion with sand 1:4, where one part of the sand is also equal to 50 kg.

19. The consumption of materials (excluding losses) for the construction of 1 m2 of the surface of a brick wall with a thickness of a quarter of a brick is:

cement (with mortar grade M-100) – 5 kg;

cement (with mortar grade M-75) – 4 kg;

cement (with mortar grade M-50) – 2.5 kg.

20. How much cement, sand, crushed stone in 1m3 of concrete (how to prepare concrete – proportions):
A) for 1m3 m 150 of the concrete of concrete. 0.6 m3 sand, 0.8 m3 crushed stone.

b) For 1 m3 M 200 of concrete you will need: 280 kg of cement, 0.5 m3 of sand, 0.8 m3 of crushed stone.

c) For 1 m3 M 250 of concrete you will need: 330 kg of cement, 0.5 m3 of sand, 0.8 m3 of gravel.

d) For 1m3 M 300 concrete you will need: 380 kg of cement, 0.5 m3 of sand, 0.8 m3 of gravel.

21. Clay-sand mortar. How to prepare:

Clay-sand mortar is a ratio of 1:3, where one part clay mortar and three parts vermiculite. The resulting solution is poured with a layer of up to 50 mm

To make the layer of clay-sand mortar for warm screed or wall construction even warmer, you need to mix the clay-sand mortar in a 1: 1 ratio with sawdust or floor (fine chopped straw). The prepared solution is poured with a layer 20-30 cm thick.

22. Proportion of concrete and foam chips:

pieces of foam plastic.

23. How many blocks are there in 1 m3 of masonry?

Size 200×300×600 — 27 blocks in 1m3

Size 200(188)х200(188)х400 — 62 blocks in 1m3

24. Secrets of brick or block facing masonry, masonry mortar + black joint:

Consumption — 1-1.5 buckets of mortar per 1m2. Instead of an expensive plasticizer, 2 caps of cheap shampoo (for plasticity) per batch 1/4, 1l. a jar of black pigment, and in order to avoid efflorescence 200g. 9% solution of vinegar.

25. Penetrating waterproofing penekrit and penetron:

Penekrit 150-200 grams per seam 25 × 25 mm per 1 linear meter of strobe

Penetron (for 2 layers according to technology) from – 0.1 m2 depending on looseness and unevenness of the surface

26. How many bricks do 1m2 masonry are needed:
A) If the wall thickness is 120 mm

Uniform brick – 61 sites. excluding seam, 51 pcs. seamed

one and a half brick — 46 pcs. excluding seam, 39 pcs. seamed

double brick — 30 pcs. excluding seam, 26 pcs. seamed

b) If the wall thickness is one brick — 250 mm

single brick — 128 pcs. excluding seam, 102 pcs. seam

one and a half brick — 95 pcs. excluding seam, 78 pcs. seamed

double brick — 60 pcs. excluding seam, 52 pcs. seamed

c) If the wall thickness is one and a half bricks – 380 mm

single brick – 189 pcs. excluding seam, 153 pcs. seamed

one and a half bricks – 140 pcs. excluding seam, 117 pcs. seamed

double brick – 90 pcs. excluding seam, 78 pcs. seamed

d) If the thickness of the wall in two bricks is 510 mm

single brick – 256 pcs. excluding seam, 204 pcs. with seam

one and a half bricks — 190 pcs. excluding seam, 156 pcs. with seam

double brick – 120 pcs without seam, 104 pcs with seam

e) If the thickness of the wall is two and a half bricks – 640 mm

single brick – 317 pcs. without seam, 255 pieces with seam

one and a half brick — 235 pcs. without seam, 195 pieces with seam

double brick – 150 pcs. excluding seam, 130 pcs. seam

27. How many facing bricks in 1m2

2. facing – 85 pcs of standard brick

3. front large – 14 bricks

Any construction is a waste and not small, but if you know the norms, you can not be deceived by unscrupulous workers. Didn’t find something? No information? Write your question below – we will find the answer and send the result to you by e-mail.

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Masonry mortar for bricks: composition and proportions for laying a brick wall

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03/14/2020

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In order for the masonry to be strong and durable, you need to properly prepare the mortar. We tell you how to choose the proportions and mix the components.

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The strength of the structure is affected not only by the quality of the base material – you need to properly prepare the masonry mortar for bricks. It is used for external and internal walls, underground structures, fireplaces, channels for laying communications, as well as for interior and exterior decoration. The properties of the mixture depend on its purpose. The conditions inside and outside the building are very different. Outside, the surface must withstand low temperatures in winter, mechanical stress and constant temperature and humidity changes. Ceramics is used in the construction of basements and foundations that are in constant contact with the ground. Underground walls withstand the pressure of groundwater and shifting earth layers. It is used in the construction of furnaces and lining of furnaces. Wet rooms have special requirements – water destroys the solid mineral structure in the same way as shock and friction.

All about making mortar for bricklaying

Requirements for finished materials
Composition
Making mortar based on cement and sand
Using crushed lime

Fit for purpose – anti-freeze materials must withstand cold well, and moisture-resistant materials must withstand moisture. Special properties are created with the help of special additives. You can enter them yourself or buy ready-made powder, which remains just mixed with water and sand.

Plasticity – workability depends on this quality. The plastic mass fills the voids of the base and strengthens its structure. It adheres better to its surface. This property is important not only during construction, but also when sealing cracks. It depends on the consistency and amount of the binder. To improve it, plasticizer additives are introduced. The workability makes it possible to apply thin, uniform layers without much effort.

Adhesion – adhesion to the surface. It depends on plasticity. To improve it, glue is introduced.

Setting time – you have to adjust to it in order to have time to work out the batch before it hardens. If the lower rows have not yet set, the upper ones can destroy them. There are hardening accelerators and retarders.

Heat and sound insulation characteristics – they are affected by the porosity of the material. The more voids, the higher these indicators, and the lower the strength. Requirements for heat and sound insulation, as a rule, are not high, but they are taken no lower than that of ceramic stone. In production, special air-entraining and gas-forming additives are used.

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Foundation

How to calculate the proportions of concrete for the foundation and mix the mortar correctly

You can buy it ready-made or make it yourself. It includes three required components.

Binder – cement, lime or a mixture thereof. As a rule, cement is used. It has the highest strength. Its specifications vary by brand. The higher it is, the better the strength characteristics, and the greater the shrinkage.

Filler – fine sand. The size of the grains of sand is no more than 2 mm. The less impurities, the higher its quality. To get rid of debris, the material is sieved. It is more difficult to clean it from chemical impurities. This can only be done in a production environment. White sand is the cleanest. Yellow has more foreign inclusions.

Water – plasticity depends on its quantity. It should not contain impurities in large quantities. It is desirable to filter it from rust and large particles. It is impossible to take it from drains and swampy reservoirs.

Additives are often used to improve certain properties. There is no need to prepare complex chemicals at home. There are folk methods that are still used today. For example, to increase adhesion and workability to the desired level, clay is added to the cement mixture. It is not always possible to calculate its exact consumption per cube, since for this you need to know its characteristics. Adhesion is increased by PVA glue.

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It is easier to work with ready-made powders. They are poured with water, allowed to stand for 5-15 minutes before laying, then applied to the surface, taking into account the setting time indicated in the instructions on the package.

To give the seam the desired shade, add water-based paint or mineral chips. To create dark tones, soot or finely ground coal is suitable.

Required tools

Plastic bowl, trough or other flat container. It should be cleaned so that debris does not get into the seam. If kneading was carried out in it before, the seized residues are removed – they can no longer react with water and only reduce strength. With a large volume, it is more convenient to prepare the mass in a concrete mixer.

Shovel or construction mixer. A small amount is mixed with a drill with a nozzle.

Buckets for water and litter.

Scales.

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Mixing ratio

Proportions are calculated by weight. The higher the brand of cement, the lower its consumption to obtain a mixture with certain properties.

Ready mix grades

M25 – suitable for decorative finishing.

M50 – used in low-rise construction.

M75 and M100 are versatile materials that can withstand heavy loads. Suitable for external and internal work.

M150 – used in extreme conditions, for example, when building foundations in moving soils.

Brick mortar ratio chart

Mix grade Cement grade Dry mix ratio (cement:sand)

25 300 1:9.5

50 300 1:5.8

50 400 1:7.4

75 300 1:4.2

75 400 1:5.4

75 500 1:6. 7

100 300 1:3.4

100 400 1:4.3

100 500 1:5.3

150 300 1:2.6

150 400 1:3.25

150 500 1:3.9

Consumption calculator

The calculation is made after leaving the proportions, when the ratio of the components is already known. If you calculate how much binder is required, it will not be difficult to find out the amount of sand.

Calculate the volume of walls: multiply their area by thickness, then subtract the volume of window and door openings.

We calculate the volume of the finished mixture by multiplying the volume of the walls by a factor of 0.25.

Knowing the proportions, we calculate the number of components.

Consumption is by weight. To convert volume to mass, multiply it by density. The density of the cement is 1300 kg/m ³ .

To understand how many packs you need, divide the value obtained by the weight of one pack.

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Mixing components

First check the quantity of materials and their condition. The binder should not be wet, otherwise it will begin to set in the package, forming lumps. It is advisable to sift it before laying. Bags are stored on pallets or film. They must not be allowed to come into contact with water.

First, dry kneading is carried out, then water is gradually added to it at a temperature of 15-20 degrees. The resulting mass should be homogeneous. Thanks to proper preparation, it is possible to set a small thickness of the mortar in the brickwork even with a low water content.

The amount of mortar depends on the productivity of the construction team and the setting time. You need to manage for an hour, until the batch begins to dry out and harden. The air temperature must be above zero – otherwise setting will not occur.

They differ from cement ones in low strength and thermal conductivity, higher plasticity. They are used to create stoves, chimneys, light walls. Before mixing, the binder is sieved, removing lumps using a sieve with cells up to 1×1 cm.

Lime paste is also used as an additive to increase the mobility of cement-sand mixtures. The material is well suited for the construction of foundations and lower floors that experience heavy loads. Its properties depend on the ratio of components and the characteristics of chemical additives.

Consider the process of creating mortar for brickwork brand M100.

What you need

10 kg of M400 cement.

50 kg sand.

5 kg lime.

50 liters of water – its volume is equal to its mass.

Preparation process

First sift the ingredients. Then pour 30 liters of water into a basin or a concrete mixer and fill in all the cement and lime. After mixing, we fall asleep the rest of the sand and add the remaining water. We stir for 5 minutes.

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Prepared by

Artem Filimonov

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Masonry mortars: compositions, characteristics, prices

Masonry mortars allow you to create reliable structures for centuries. Building materials themselves are of high quality, reliable, strong and durable. Problems begin with the seams – the walls burst, cracks appear, so it is important to make the masonry mortar correctly so that the structure remains in excellent undamaged condition for as long as possible.

Diluted from several components, the mass hardens after hardening and becomes like a stone. To obtain a masonry mixture, dilute water, sand, cement or another binder in proportions according to the standard, various special additives to improve the quality data of the composition, for example, if there is a need to work in frosty winter (anti-frost). Masonry mortars are relevant when laying brick, rubble stone, and other stone.
Additives that correct the properties of the mortar as needed by builders are divided into:

organic;

inorganic.

– As the first, soap napht, LST, SDB are considered, as the second – ground slag, ash, volcanic ash. The main property of the masonry mortar is plastic characteristics at the highest level. Therefore, a warm lime mass or cement-lime mortar is prepared.

How to make a masonry mortar

Determine the composition, select the ingredients for this in the specified proportions, strictly following the state standards.

Preparation of cement-sand mortar

The liquefied mass is prepared as follows: first, all the components presented in dry form (sand, cement, crushed stone) are stirred, and then purified water is added to this composition, without debris, stones, dirt. The temperature is within +16…+21 degrees. It is important to carefully stir the solution, making it homogeneous. Lumps and foreign elements in the composition are excluded.
A plasticizer will also have to be introduced, since the output composition is amazing in its properties, but completely non-plastic. Therefore, stiffness is removed with special additives. In what proportions to mix sand and cement to obtain the desired solution is indicated in the table.

Mortar Grade

Cement grade

Cement/sand ratio

М25

M300

1:9.5

М50

M300

1:5.8

M400

1:7.4

M75

M300

1:4. 2

M400

1:5.4

M500

1:6.7

М100

M300

1:3.4

M400

1:4.3

M500

1:5.3

М150

M300

1:2.6

M400

1:3.25

M500

1:3. 9

Preparation of cement-lime mortar

A thickened mass is obtained by diluting slaked lime. Then the mixture is filtered. Separately, dry bulk building materials are mixed: sand and cement. Then lime is added here, mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained.

Types

Operating conditions

Variety of mortars:

used in air-dry environment. The advantage is on the side of mixtures with a binder lime. Sufficiently plastic, guarantee excellent adhesion of mortar to bricks. But it takes a lot of time for the mass to solidify, while liquid is released. Because of this, construction can be inconvenient;

used in humid environments. The binder is Portland cement (Slag Portland cement). The solution is waterproof, relevant for the construction of underground parts of construction projects. Sometimes cement mixtures and lime mixtures are mixed, achieving increased ductility of the solution, resistance to negative temperatures, and excellent strength characteristics. It is convenient to work with such solutions, they fit well on building materials, build any parts of objects: above and below ground.

According to the type of binder included in

Masonry mortars are:

The most common in construction. The scope of application is wide: masonry work, floor screed, plaster work. Here, the filler is in the form of crushed stone of a fine fraction, and in concrete – a larger one.

Lime. It is comfortable to work with them, quite plastic. After hardening, they are strong and durable; cracks do not occur during the entire service life. Prepare masonry mortar for working with bricks, natural stone, blocks.

Plaster. Mega quickly freeze. The mixtures are environmentally friendly, but they do not resist moisture well and are completely fragile. Ideal for decorative and finishing work.

Mixed.

By application

Classification into several varieties:

universal. They are chosen by working with blocks, stone, brick;

special. Demanded when laying out tanks, smoke outlets, stoves and other specific structures;

colored. The material makes it possible not only to firmly connect the building elements to each other, but also immediately plays a decorative role, acts as a finish.

Technical characteristics of mortars

Depending on where they plan to use the mortar, in what works, construction of which objects, the mixture will have special quality and technical characteristics. The main ones are:

plasticity;

humidity;

waterproof;

density;

fluidity;

curing time.

Every masonry mortar has certain qualities:

excellent adhesion to building materials. Maximum resistance to separations, shifts;

frost resistance. Defined by freeze/thaw cycles;

waterproof. The solution does not absorb moisture under pressure. Therefore, the masonry will remain safe and sound under heavy downpours, snow, hail;

plasticity. Technical lignosulfonates in the form of powders or liquids will help make the mixture more elastic, which is more comfortable to work with, adjust the position of building materials until the solution has hardened;

ability to retain moisture. There is a liquid in the solution, which it retains while remaining in its normal state;

mobility. If the mixture is mobile, it naturally spreads through the masonry under the influence of gravity without any problems;

strength. Stronger masonry composition, stronger built object, which will stay in operation longer;

bundle. If you add clay or lime, it decreases.

Grades of masonry mortars

Stamps

Solution description

M25

It is in demand in plastering activities when working with ceilings, walls, columns, and tidying up partitions. Also, thanks to him, they perform a floor screed. Plastic, incredibly strong and very mobile. With decorative ingredients, it is excellent for decorative finishing. Without artificial impurities.

M50

Versatile and practical, the effect of external factors on the solution is nothing. Relevant in the organization of low-rise buildings. Choose when working with brick materials, forming stone walls. There are plasticizers and substances in the mixture that slow down the hardening. Suitable for armopoyas. Builders, when they are engaged in repair or installation, restore structures, sealing cracks and cracks with this solution.

M75

Masonry mortar suitable for concrete floor screed. It is ordered when concrete blocks are laid and are engaged in the production of reinforced concrete products. The mixture is popular in the construction of internal walls of industrial complexes.

M100

The most common. It is used by private traders in the construction of a house, developers in the construction of monolithic high-rise buildings.

M150

Order the mixture when building foundations in conditions with low strength soils. Lime and gypsum are minimally present.

Masonry mortar colour. Dyes choose lime, cement, lime-cement. In order for the mixture to acquire the desired tone, it contains 8% of the pigments of the total mass.

Given the color, the compositions are:

colored. Relevant in finishing work when working with bricks. Dyes resistant to alkalis. The bright yellow or orange mixture will be due to ocher. Ultramarine will give you the opportunity to admire the purple and blue hues of the solution. Red lovers will have to use minium.