Seal basement walls: Waterproofing Basement Walls: 8 Dos and Don’ts

Waterproofing Basement Walls: 8 Dos and Don’ts

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Because they’re built below grade, basements tend to take on water. You may notice moist basement walls from time to time, water puddles here and there, or—worst case scenario—flooding during the rainy season. Humid, damp, or downright wet basements can result in peeling paint, mold and mildew growth, rotted wood, and damage to stored items.

While builders take steps to waterproof basements during construction, over time a house can settle, creating cracks in the basement walls. When the soil outside becomes saturated, water can seep through these cracks. Even structurally sound basement walls can absorb water from the soil and transfer it to the basement interior, making the walls feel wet. As the water from the walls evaporates, the air in the basement becomes more humid. A high-quality dehumidifier will help remove excess basement humidity, but the best long-term solution is to waterproof the walls.

RELATED: So, You Want to… Waterproof Your Basement

Depending on the reason for the moisture problem, the fix could be a simple do-it-yourself remedy, or it could require the assistance of a foundation contractor. If you’re looking at waterproofing basement walls, the following tips will get you started on the right foot.

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DO determine the source of the water.

Because concrete is porous, you can often see wet streaks that let you know where the water is coming in. Look for streaks along cracks, at the corners of windows, between mortar joints (for cement block walls), and around pipes where they enter or exit, such as a water-supply line or a sewer pipe.

If entire wall surfaces are wet, however, you’ll need to do further sleuthing. To conduct a simple condensation test, dry an area of the wall with a rag and then attach a one-foot square piece of aluminum foil to the wall with duct tape. Peel off the foil after 24 hours and check how the underside of the foil feels. If it is wet, water is seeping through the wall from the outside. If dry, the moisture is originating elsewhere in the basement, most likely from a basement shower—easily remedied by installing a vent fan in the bathroom to direct steam outdoors.

DON’T make wall repairs with standing water in the basement.

During a rainy season, a crack in a basement wall can allow an inch or two of water in, but before you seek to repair the crack, remove all the water from the floor. Working in a flooding basement increases the risk of electrical shock or electrocution. Turn off the power to the basement, and then use a utility pump (with extension cords that reaches an upstairs outlet) to get rid of the water. The pump will discharge the water to the surface of your yard via a garden hose. When the basement is water-free, proceed with inspecting, fixing, and effectively waterproofing the basement walls.

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DO fill cracks with hydraulic cement.

Another area where cracks are commonly found is at the bottom of the basement walls. When a foundation is poured, its footing—a wide flat base made from concrete and reinforced steel, designed to support the walls—is poured first, and then the walls are poured on top after footings harden. Although this is standard construction procedure, it can create what’s known as a “cold joint,” a weak spot in the foundation between the wall and the footing where cracks can develop with the shifting and settling of a foundation, along with lateral pressure from the soil.

Fortunately, sealing cracks is a relatively simple DIY task that involves filling them with hydraulic cement, such as QUIKRETE’s Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement (available from Home Depot). Hydraulic cement—which contains additives that cause the cement to expand and set rapidly—is mixed with water to a heavy putty consistency and then pressed into cracks with gloved fingers or with a putty knife (follow mixing and application directions). As hydraulic cement expands, it pushes deep into cracks and crevices to form a watertight bond. Mix only as much as you can use within three minutes, though, because that’s how quickly it begins to set.

DON’T forget to address window well leaks.

Window wells are a common source of basement wall leaks because they tend to retain water if a proper drainage system wasn’t installed beneath the well when the house was built. This can lead to water pooling around the bottom of a basement window and then seeping in.

While it’s difficult to install a window well drainage system after the fact, consider digging approximately two feet lower in the well area, and then filling the space with gravel to help rainwater disperse rather than collect in the window well. Then, caulk around the window with a caulk suitable for use on masonry, such as GE’s 100 Percent Silicone Window and Door Caulk (available from Home Depot). In addition, install a sloped window well cover, such as Shape Product’s Universal Fit Polycarbonate Window Well Cover (available from Home Depot), over the window well to direct rainwater away.

DO apply a masonry waterproofing product to bare interior basement walls.

If your foil test showed that water is soaking through your basement walls and leaving them wet, seal the interior of the walls with a high-quality waterproof paint, such as DRYLOK White Extreme Waterproofer (available from Home Depot). This type of sealant comes premixed and goes on just like a coat of paint. When waterproofing basement walls with it, brush or roll the paint on thickly enough to fill all the little surface holes, then allow it to dry fully before a second coat is applied. When completely dry, the sealant forms a watertight bond to keep any more moisture from seeping through. A five-gallon container treats approximately 500 square feet of wall.

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DON’T apply sealer over painted walls or efflorescence.

If you or a previous owner painted the basement walls, you’ll have to remove the paint before applying sealer, which only adheres well to bare masonry. It’s common to find several coats of paint in older homes, which is best removed with a sandblaster by pros known as blasting contractors. Alternately, it can be removed by wire brushing, a tedious but inexpensive DIY task.

It’s also necessary to remove efflorescence—white deposits that form on the surface of concrete walls subject to constant moisture—before applying sealer; do so with muriatic acid (follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

RELATED: 7 Health Hazards Lurking in Your Basement

DO take steps to keep water away from your basement.

Sometimes, the solution to wet basement walls is easy. For instance, remove foundation plantings, such as bushes and flowerbeds that require watering, which subsequently allows water to seep into the basement. Also inspect and, if needed, repair guttering and downspouts to ensure that they’re directing water away from your home. It’s also a good idea to grade your yard away from the foundation—at least a two percent slope.

In addition to the above steps, consider having an exterior drain tile system installed. This is usually a last-ditch effort because it’s pricey, easily running $10,000 or more. It requires excavating the soil from around the outside of your basement in order to install a perforated drain at the footing level. A waterproof membrane is often installed on the outside of the basement wall, and the system also requires putting in a buried sump pump where water will collect and then be pumped to the surface. This is strictly a job for a foundation contractor, but it could greatly reduce basement water problems.

DON’T forget interior drainage solutions.

Another method of attaining dry basement walls is to install a drainage channel beneath the floor inside the basement. The drain is similar to the exterior drain tile described above, but it’s located just inside the basement walls; then, new walls are built on the inside of drain so the original basement walls are not visible. This is another job for a foundation contractor, at a minimum cost of around $5,000. When it’s done, you’ll have new, dry walls, and any residual water that seeps through the old basement walls will be directed to the drain channel and pumped away.

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Everything You Need to Know

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Most homeowners know that a leaky basement can be a serious problem that can often require a professional’s expertise. Water can damage possessions and create a health hazard, but it can also lead to structural problems with a home.

Waterproofing your customers’ basement walls is one of the best ways to prevent leaks (and callbacks). While there are many methods that can be used, one popular method is to apply a waterproof coating to the walls, which will create a barrier that prevents water from seeping in.

This article will discuss the steps to follow when applying a waterproofer to basement walls to ensure your customers are happy with the end result.

5 Steps to Effectively Waterproof Basement Walls

1. Remove All Standing Water and Verify That the Area is Completely Dry

It’s critical to remove all standing water before beginning any waterproofing job. After the area is completely dry, you may now begin to analyze the damage and select the most effective action. Any water left standing may hide a leak coming from the floor – not the wall – and will require a different solution to fix the problem.

2. Clean and Prepare the Area

Clean, dry and grease-free surfaces produce the best results. When removing dust, grime and any loose or broken masonry with a wire brush, it’s important to make sure that it’s completely gone.

Check for Mold or Efflorescence and Remove It

Water-soluble salt compounds in the masonry, pushed out by water intrusion, will cause white, powdery, crystal-like deposits on the surface. When the water evaporates, the salt residue remains. This is called efflorescence, and it must be removed prior to waterproofing to ensure proper adhesion of the waterproofing paint. A product that is very effective for removing the efflorescence is DRYLOK® Etch. Unlike muriatic acid, it does not become activated until combined with water, which makes storage safer.

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Remove Any Old Paint or Other Coatings

If you will be waterproofing walls that have previously been painted, then you will need to remove any old paint or other coatings first. This can be done with a wire brush, sandpaper or chemical stripper.

3. Plug Holes and Cracks

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Once the area is clean and dry, you can begin plugging any holes or cracks in the walls with hydraulic cement. This will prevent water from entering the basement. An excellent product for this purpose is DRYLOK® Fast Plug. In only three to five minutes, Fast Plug creates a waterproof seal on any surface. It can even fix active leaks.

Small cracks can be addressed with DRYLOK® Masonry Crack Filler. The ultimate crack repair and filling solution, this is a superior, rapid-setting and ready-to-use acrylic mixture fortified with silicone caulk. It dries to the color of concrete, does not bleed and can be cleaned up in a matter of minutes with soap and water.

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4. Reseal Windows, Doors and Window Wells with Caulk

With a waterproofing project, it’s always a good idea to do an overall perimeter check on the home. Window wells are a common entry point for water, which makes it important to seal them properly. You can use silicone caulk or expanding foam. Windows and doors should also be sealed with caulking in order to prevent water from entering.

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5. Apply Waterproof Coating

Once the basement is completely dry, all the holes are plugged and the windows and doors are caulked, it’s time to paint the walls with a waterproof sealer. DRYLOK® Extreme Masonry Waterproofer is the perfect solution to stop water infiltration through basement walls, and it’s easy to apply.

Here are some quick steps to follow:

Purchase enough paint to complete the job. Each gallon covers approximately 75 – 100 square feet. You will need a minimum of two coats.
Make sure the temperature is at least 50℉ while painting.
Stir thoroughly and do not thin.
Apply the first coat with a ¾ inch nap roller or a good nylon bristle brush.
Allow two to three hours to dry before applying the second coat.

After the walls are dry, inspect for pinholes and give these areas an additional coat.

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Can DRYLOK® Extreme Masonry Waterproofer Be Used for Exterior Basement Sealing?

DRYLOK® can be applied to the positive or negative side (below-grade, inside or outside) of the wall. This can be done during construction or after the build to provide the desired waterproofing. It has been tested to ASTM D‑7088 standards.

This procedure is for the evaluation of coatings used in below-grade applications to resist the passage of water through concrete blocks. It is intended to replicate the ability of a coating applied to a below-grade masonry wall to prevent the intrusion of water through the coating caused by hydrostatic pressure from the water on the outside of the building.

The results of the test give our product a PSI rating of 15, which equates to stopping a wall of water that is 33 feet tall.

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Reimagine Your Basement Aesthetic with DRYLOK® Waterproofer Color Tints

Extreme Masonry Waterproofer is stocked on the shelf as bright white. However, a local supplier can also tint it for homeowners in up to eight colors. You can provide homeowners with aesthetic options for their basement, which many of your competitors cannot offer.

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Trust in DRYLOK® for All Masonry Care and Repair Needs

We carry solutions for everyday homeowners, DIYers and professionals alike. Whether you are sealing a patio, painting a garage floor, or waterproofing your basement walls, we can provide the tools you need to prepare the surface, patch the cracks and holes and finally apply the finish coat that will make your project shine.

When you use our products, you can be sure that you’re providing your customers with quality solutions at an affordable price. Contact us today to find a retailer near you.

How to Waterproof Your Basement in 5 Steps — Ring’s End

Ring’s End carries premium products to waterproof your basement. Depending on your level of expertise and the water issues you are experiencing on your property, it may be appropriate to hire a professional to do the work. This article is intended as a guide for the DIY’er.

Before you venture into waterproofing your basement, you should understand why it might be wet in the first place. Because most basements are below grade (ground), they are more prone to accumulating excess moisture and suffering water damage. Here are some of the more common reasons why you may end up with a wet basement:

Cracks in your house’s foundation are a surefire way for water to seep in through your basement walls and floors.

Basement doors, windows, egress windows, and window wells that aren’t secure are other paths for water seepage.

Inadequate drainage is a major cause of a wet basement. When rainwater is not properly directed away from your home, it will sit at the house’s foundation and seep into the basement.

Improper drainage can be the result of a poor drainage system, improperly installed or clogged gutters, or even sloping around your home. If your land is sloped toward your home, water will run toward and accumulate around your house’s foundation.

Interior Waterproofing Your Basement Walls and Basement Floor

The foundation is said to be the strongest part of any home. But as a house’s foundation shifts and settles into the earth, cracks will inevitably develop and water can seep in, resulting in a wet basement. Typically, these foundation cracks can be fixed with easy DIY basement waterproofing solutions. There are certainly exterior waterproofing instances where a contractor may be required to repair major foundational damage or a landscape architect/civil engineer would recommend regrading your yard and/or redesigning your drainage system. However, here, we’ll focus on interior waterproofing that you, as a homeowner, can do yourself to achieve a dry basement.

Before You Begin

First, you’ll want to clean up the areas you’ll be waterproofing. Many of the waterproofing products listed below will only work if applied directly to the substrate, so if there are any existing coatings on the surface, wall, or floor, they must be removed. Old paint can be removed with a wire brush, sandblaster, or other methods. Please contact one of our Paint Centers for advice on how to best remove old paint safely, as you must always wear proper protective gear when removing paint. Wash the walls of dirt and dust using a scrub brush and warm water with a little bit of dish soap. If you see any mold, you can add bleach into the solution (1 cup of bleach per gallon of water). However, first check the ingredients in your dish soap and do not mix bleach with any products containing ammonia! Rinse the walls with warm water after washing them, and let everything dry thoroughly before moving on to the next step.

*If you see any white, powdery, crystal-like powder on your masonry walls, that is efflorescence and needs to be removed with DRYLOK Concrete and Masonry Liquid Etch & Cleaner or muriatic acid. Please refer to the manufacturer’s directions before using.

Step 1: Clean the Area

First you’ll want to clean up the areas you’ll be waterproofing. Many of the waterproofing products listed below will only work if applied directly to the substrate, so if there are any existing coatings on the surface, wall or floor, they must be removed. Old paint can be removed with a wire brush, sandblaster, or other methods. Please contact one of our Paint Centers for advice on how to best remove old paint safely, as you must always wear proper protective gear when removing paint. Wash the walls of dirt and dust using a scrub brush and warm water with a little bit of dish soap. If you see any mold, you can add bleach into the solution (1 cup of bleach per every gallon of water). However, first check the ingredients in your dish soap and do not mix bleach with any products containing ammonia! Rinse the walls with warm water after washing them, and let everything dry thoroughly before moving onto the next step.

Step 2: Plug Holes

For any holes, use hydraulic cement, such as DRYLOK Fast Plug, to plug any obvious holes and large cracks. Hydraulic cement seals cracks and holes in masonry, and prevents water from flowing through them, even under pressure. DRYLOK Fast Plug will set and harden very quickly, in 3-5 minutes, so have a plan before you start! Use a trowel to smooth the cement before it sets.

Step 3: Fill Cracks

Fill smaller cracks with a Masonry Crack Filler.

Step 4: Seal Openings

Use caulk to seal doors, windows, and window wells. We recommend an elastic sealant such as Big Stretch Sealant or Lexel Sealant, both of which are waterproof and flexible.

Step 5: Apply Waterproof Coating

After your holes and cracks are sealed, use a waterproof coating on your basement surfaces. DRYLOK Clear Masonry Waterproofer is a great product that is guaranteed to protect walls and floors against hydrostatic pressure and water seepage. DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer also comes in white and gray, but these two can only be used on walls and not on floors. Apply the concrete sealer with a quality nylon bristle brush or 3/4″ nap roller and make sure to work it into the pores of the masonry. Proper coverage and a minimum of two coats is required to warranty waterproofing. Read all manufacturer guidelines and instructions before applying.

*PRO TIP: Tape along the concrete floor 1 inch out from the base of the wall, and paint DRYLOK on the walls, along the seam between the wall and the floor, and on the floor up until the tape. This will help prevent water from migrating down the exterior of the foundation and in through the seam.

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Basement Waterproofing Tips

Don’t perform any crack repair or sealing until all standing water is first removed from your basement floor.

Consider running a dehumidifier in your basement to reduce condensation. This will help prevent mildew and mold growth.

If your dryer is in your basement, be sure that it’s correctly hooked up to the vent and that you don’t feel any air leaking around the hose. The hot, moist air from the dryer can cause condensation if it’s not venting correctly.

Another source of condensation in your basement may be sweating pipes. Check that your pipes are properly insulated with this guide: How to Insulate Pipes and Prevent Pipes from Freezing.

You can paint over DRYLOCK Waterproofer, and we recommend a paint that will perform in high-humidity environments, such as Benjamin Moore Aura Bath & Spa.

Exterior Waterproofing

Exterior waterproofing your home can be a big undertaking, and we recommend hiring a contractor or landscape architect for a consultation if you believe there are serious cracks or deficiencies in your concrete foundation or if you have groundwater pooling around your house. However, there are easy do-it-yourself fixes that you can try before excavating your yard!

Don’t plant flower beds or bushes that require watering too close to your house.

Make sure your gutters are clear and flowing properly to keep water flowing away from your house. Check out our guide on gutter guards and how to properly protect your gutters: Best Gutter Guards to Protect Your Gutters.

If your walkway or patio are sloped toward your house, they can contribute to water pooling around your foundation. You may be able to re-level the slabs so that they drain away from the house instead of toward it.

Preparing for Basement Floods

One last thing you may want to consider adding to your basement waterproofing system is a sump pump. If your house is located on a high water table, some basement flooding may be inevitable during heavy rainstorms. A sump pump can either be above or below (submersed into) your basement floor, and pumps out and discharges water from inside to outside.

Does My Crawl Space Need to be Waterproofed Too?

If your house has a basement crawl space, it is also necessary to not only seal the interior and exterior walls, but also any crawl spaces that may allow for water seepage.

When Should I Call a Professional Basement Waterproofing Company?

If you’re unsure of how deep the damage goes and whether or not you can properly fix the water problems yourself, calling a professional waterproofing expert in your area may give you peace of mind.

Many waterproofing service companies offer a free inspection to tell you the extent of damage and the cost of repair services. If they find that your home has extensive basement leaks that have caused major structural damage or your basement is in need of foundation repair, it may be best to have a professional handle the work.

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Waterproofing basement walls: Why, when and how to do it

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Stains, a distinctive damp smell, or mold and mildew can all be signs that you need to waterproof basement walls. The location of a basement means that it can need attention over time to remedy these problems, and keep the space dry and its contents in good condition.

Waterproofing can be a key element of realizing your favorite basement ideas but unfortunately, not everyone gets round to it until it’s too late. If this sounds sorely familiar, you may be wondering about the best ways to waterproof basement walls and whether you can DIY or if you will be obliged to call in a pro.

If you have encountered problems, there are solutions you can implement yourself. However, experts highlight how vital it is to be aware of when professional assistance is a must.

Why should you waterproof basement walls?

Waterproofing is a factor that shouldn’t be neglected even when finishing a basement on a budget, but if you suspect you need to waterproof basement walls in an existing space, take urgent action.

‘Do not neglect basement issues,’ says Aaron Goucher of Olshan Foundation Repair . ‘While you may be told by a professional that nothing’s critical or urgent, it’s better to know that than assume incorrectly or neglect completely.

‘As with most things in life, fixing a small issue now is better than dealing with a major issue later. You have the convenience of budgeting, scheduling the repairs on your timeline, and finding the ideal company to assist you versus waking up to a flooded basement at the worst time.’

Waterproofing is the most expensive factor in basement remodeling costs, but if problems show up later down the line there are a number of ways you might spot this. ‘Important signs that indicate immediate waterproofing of your basement walls are: an unpleasant smell because of dampness; prominent stains on the basement walls or floor; difficulty opening and closing basement doors due to swelling; the appearance of mold or mildew on the walls; and visible cracks either on the floor or the basement walls,’ says David Clark, a contractor, home improvement expert and CEO at Basement Guides .

Be aware that the signs can be subtle. ‘We suggest that homeowners keep an eye open for any sweating or damping at various seams and cracks,’ says Aaron Goucher. ‘These will most likely be where the footers and basement floors meet, mortar joints, and window jambs. Obviously, any noticeable cracks in your walls or bowed/tilted walls are also huge indicators that moisture is not only a factor but already causing damages. While not your walls, if any of these signs begin occurring to your basement’s floor, it would be wise to investigate further or at least have someone out to consult. ’

Can you waterproof basement walls yourself?

There are measures you can take to waterproof basement walls yourself. ‘For smaller or emerging wet basement issues, you do have a few helpful options, but as with any home repair or renovation, be mindful and realistic of your DIY capabilities,’ says Aaron Goucher.

‘It’s also important to note that these DIY repairs won’t do much to protect your home against emerging hydrostatic pressure (water pressure that is stacking against your walls and increasing over time),’ he adds.

How do you waterproof the inside of a basement wall?

There are a number of measures you can take to waterproof the inside of a basement wall. However, you should always be safety conscious before carrying out work. A crack in the wall could cause the basement to flood in rainy conditions. ‘Never attempt this job with water in your basement,’ says Volodymyr Barabakh, co-founder and project director of building contractors Structural Beam . ‘Switch off the power supply and remove all flooding using a utility pump. For best safety practice, attempt this work on a dryer day whilst the rain has stopped.’

Hydraulic cement can be used for minor leaks. ‘Hydraulic cement should be used for any holes,’ says Zac Houghton, CEO of Loftera . ‘Water cannot enter cracks and holes in masonry when hydraulic cement is applied.’

‘Hydraulic cement is specifically designed for stopping or plugging minor water leaks, so it sets in about three to five minutes,’ says Aaron. ‘You’d just need latex gloves and a putty knife to apply the product evenly, but once it’s in your wall crack, it immediately starts expanding to fill those vulnerabilities.’

Once holes and cracks are filled, concrete walls can be sealed. ‘You can apply waterproof paint, which is a specifically designed sealant that’s applied to the walls,’ explains Aaron. ‘You’d apply this as you would normally paint your walls, using a roller and brush; you just want to make sure it’s thick. The goal is to fill all the pores and fine divots on your concrete wall so future seepage cannot penetrate the barrier.

‘However, you should only apply this waterproofing product if your basement walls are original, meaning they haven’t been painted before,’ he adds. ‘Some homeowners like the look of normal white paint on the walls, but it makes the waterproofing sealant ineffective.’

Be mindful that a basement window could be the cause of damp in the basement. ‘It is possible that water is seeping through the window in your basement,’ explains Stacey Kane from drainage and building materials suppliers EasyMerchant . ‘So, you should also check if there’s a need to add a bead of caulk around your basement window, maintain the window well, or install window well drains when waterproofing your basement walls.’

A sump pump may be necessary as well as measures to remedy drainage issues. ‘But most homeowners require a professional to address and install those,’ says Aaron.

When do you need to call in a pro to waterproof basement walls?

Damp basement walls can be caused by interior or exterior issues. If it’s the latter, DIY measures can be helpful but won’t resolve the problems. ‘An example of this could be the grade of your property and how it funnels water to your basement as opposed to away from your foundation,’ says Aaron Goucher. ‘There can also be a host of issues regarding drainage system issues.’

You may find installing gutters properly is the best solution. ‘Sometimes, you just need to unclog or fix improperly installed gutters to help re-direct water away from your basement,’ says Stacey Kane. ‘Be sure not to neglect this step in your waterproofing efforts.’

A pro can confirm the cause of the problem, so you can take the appropriate steps.

What is the best way to waterproof basement walls?

The best way to waterproof basement walls on a DIY basis is to fill cracks with hydraulic cement , and apply a sealant designed for waterproofing basement walls, plus use silicone masonry caulk around window jambs. General Electric GE5020 Concrete and Masonry Silicone II Caulk from Amazon is rain-ready in three hours and will do the trick.

‘More of the long-term solutions that address exterior issues or complex interior issues will require a professional who is licensed and trained to perform a variety of improvements,’ says Aaron Goucher. ‘These often include exterior shields, surface drains or water channels, sump pump basins and pumps, gravity discharges, and more.’

Sarah is a freelance journalist and editor writing for websites, national newspapers, and magazines. She’s spent most of her journalistic career specialising in homes – long enough to see fridges become smart, decorating fashions embrace both minimalism and maximalism, and interiors that blur the indoor/outdoor link become a must-have. She loves testing the latest home appliances, revealing the trends in furnishings and fittings for every room, and investigating the benefits, costs and practicalities of home improvement. It’s no big surprise that she likes to put what she writes about into practice, and is a serial house revamper. For Realhomes. com, Sarah reviews coffee machines and vacuum cleaners, taking them through their paces at home to give us an honest, real life review and comparison of every model.

Do-It-Yourself Basement Waterproofing Sealer | RadonSeal

Improving Your Home’s Health – For over 20-years our line of Penetrating Waterproofing Sealers, DIY Foundation Crack Injection Kits, Concrete Floor Repair Kits, and basement waterproofing and radon mitigating products have proven to be the ideal solutions for drying out basements. Commercial-grade, high-strength, long-lasting, and unique materials that continue to be trusted by building contractors and DIY homeowners nationwide. Products that can permanently waterproof and damp proof wet and leaking foundation walls and basement concrete floors. Helping to significantly improve the overall health of your basement and home.

The Permanent Concrete Sealer – RadonSeal Deep-Penetrating Concrete Sealer is not “your father’s” waterproofing paint or sealer. It differs from paints and membrane coatings by penetrating deep inside concrete (up to 4″), chemically reacting with free lime and alkalis, expanding within the pores and capillaries of concrete, and curing as a hard mineral. RadonSeal will seal your concrete internally against the transmission of capillary water seepage, water vapor and strong enough to seal against radon gas.

Why Do Basements Start Leaking Water?

A hard-driving rainstorm or melting snow can temporarily raise groundwater levels and for every inch of rain, a 1,500 sq. ft. roof sheds almost 1,000 gallons of water. Rain gutters and downspouts get plugged up with debris. New houses have a problem with “reverse grading,” which usually occurs several years after construction. Fill dirt around the foundation settles and directs rainwater right to the foundation.

As the run-off seeps through the soft topsoil around the house, it pushes against the walls and stops at the undisturbed ground just beneath the footings. Footing drains may break as the house settles, or silt up. If the soil is clay, water then starts rising in the disturbed soil around the foundation like inside a pool.

Hydrostatic Pressure – When water accumulates around the foundation, hydrostatic pressure builds up and causes the basement to leak. Clay-rich soils do not drain well and hold rainwater right against the foundation walls. Water pushes its way inside through any cracks or joints and the pores in concrete. Rising groundwater is sometimes the problem or even an underground spring. Houses settle and underground water flows change. New construction down the street may shift groundwater flows and cause basement leaks in your house.

Settling Cracks – As houses settle, concrete develops stress cracks that leak water. Exterior waterproofing disintegrates or separates due to the “alkali attack.” When water migrates towards embedded steel, it rusts, expands, and cracks the concrete.

Efflorescence Signifies Water Seepage – Water penetrates the pores in concrete, dissolves alkalis, and enlarges the pores. As concrete ages, it becomes more and more porous. Initially, the seeping water evaporates, leaving on the surface salts and lime. This “white deposit” or efflorescence is a telltale sign of capillary water seepage.

Plastic Barriers Do Not Last – Concrete slabs, although much thinner than basement walls get even less waterproofing protection. The plastic “vapor barrier” soon disintegrates due to the lime in concrete and over time, the layer of gravel (“drainage pad”) silts up. Then, the concrete starts pulling in groundwater by capillary action.

Exterior Foundation Waterproofing

Combining RadonSeal With An Exterior Waterproofing Coating – RadonSeal is commonly used in combination with exterior foundation coatings (damp proofing membranes), which are required by building codes in most counties. One of the benefits RadonSeal provides to concrete (prior to applying a coating), is the ability to neutralize alkalis in concrete. Neutralizing the alkali will help extend the life of waterproofing membranes, paints, tar, rubberized sealants, against alkali attacks.

Exterior coatings waterproof concrete by encapsulation and seal water leaks by bridging settling cracks, cold pour joints, protrusions, seams, holes, and minor defects. RadonSeal plays its part in the damp proofing process by restricting the movement of water through the capillaries of the concrete. It is the line of defense that the concrete foundation will benefit from when exterior membranes begin to deteriorate, crack, and release.

The lower the quality of concrete, the higher the need to apply RadonSeal before a waterproofing coating. Foundation walls constructed of cinder blocks or heavyweight concrete blocks have thin walls (1-1/4″ thick) on both sides of the hollow cores. Cinder blocks that leak routinely, can have large visible pores making them much more difficult to seal. The most effective method for waterproofing a newly constructed basement wall is to seal both sides of the concrete with RadonSeal. Afterward, allow the sealer to initially cure and for the concrete to dry before applying the exterior waterproofing coating (2-4 days).

Taking into consideration aggressive timelines, when contractors are required to backfill sooner, install the exterior waterproofing coating and apply RadonSeal to the interior basement walls.

How To Check Moisture Transmission

Many home sales get re-negotiated or even canceled when the building inspector discovers moisture in the basement. Make sure to check for leaks and any visible cracks in the concrete, the floor-to-wall joints, expansion control joints in the floor, and all penetrations.

You can test for moisture transmission through the concrete by placing a foot-square of plastic or aluminum foil on the floor or wall, seal the edges with duct tape, and check after a couple of days for drops of water. Alternatively, you can use professional Vapor Transmission Test Kits.

What will building inspectors look for?

Dampness – Residual dampness at the base of walls.
Rust Stains – Signs of rust at the base of steel posts or the heater. Discoloration or decay on wood partitions, paneling, drywall, wood posts.
Efflorescence – Signs of “white powder” deposits on the concrete walls and floor.
Peeling – Peeling floor tiles, paint, or mildewed carpeting.
Mildew & Mold Stains – Stain from mildew on objects stored on the floor.
Dampness – Dank odors in carpeting and finishes
Musty Odors – A musty smell indicates that molds or mildew have already taken hold.
Condensation – On windows and concrete surfaces.
Rain Gutters – Plugged or damaged rain gutters.
Grading – Improper grading, puddling of water, saturated zones, and the growth of moss.

Waterproofing New Concrete Foundations

RadonSeal Concrete Sealer preserves new concrete and protects concrete against the gradual deterioration caused by groundwater. Sealing the concrete early on, particularly before finishing the basement, will help avoid future headaches! If you have a brand new basement, now is the best time to prevent future moisture problems, to waterproof and strengthen the concrete, reduce cracking, efflorescence (“white powder”), dusting, and preserve the concrete.

As concrete cures, it inevitably develops capillaries. Allow new concrete to cure for at least 28 days before sealing and damp-proofing the poured walls and slab with RadonSeal Standard. In the case of concrete block or cinder block walls, allow the new mortar to cure for at least 14 days before applying RadonSeal Plus and Ion-Bond Armor.

Flex Seal Liquid for Basement Waterproofing
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Flex Seal Liquid for Basement Waterproofing

“Put this on a basement wall with a hairline crack from top to bottom and mud was washing in at the bottom..
We hoped it would fix the problem since a relative had the same problem and it cost them $12,000 to fix their basement.

This week it rained for three days, without this applied to wall we would always have water and mud run across the floor. we have checked it several times and ‘NOTHING’ We are so excited about this product. I was skeptical but it seems to be hold back the leak. I wish we had heard about it a year ago…”

– Alma Atckinson, Amazon Customer

Basements have a bad reputation for storing moisture and mildew. Since they’re located below ground, water from poor exterior drainage, heavy rainfall, or a high-water table can find its way inside through porous concrete walls.

As a homeowner that is always up for the challenge to fix and prevent any potential problems under my own roof, knowing how to seal basement walls was something I was determined to master. After all, if basement water intrusion is ignored for a long period of time, it can create extensive structural damage and mold problems. To avoid that from becoming my reality, I turned to Flex Seal to waterproof my basement walls.

Read on as I explain how I sealed my basement walls using Flex Shot and Flex Seal Liquid MAX.

Before Getting Started

The first step for me wasn’t to head straight to the basement, it was to properly inspect the entire inside and outside of my home. This step is critical for anyone looking to seal their basement walls.

If the walls in your basement are actively leaking, identify the problem at the source. Just sealing your basement walls without finding the root cause is not recommended. You should determine whether you need to add gutters at your roofline, install proper drainage measures, or complete a separate exterior repair to prevent water from entering your home.

Find supplies for this project at Ace Hardware.

Materials

● Wire Brush

● Efflorescence Remover

● Utility Brush

● Shop Vacuum

● Dehumidifier/Fan

● Disposable Gloves

● Blue Painter’s Tape

● Drop Cloth/Plastic Sheeting

● Flex Shot

● Flex Seal Liquid MAX

● Paint Brush

● Plastic Paint Container

● Paint Roller (¾” or 1-¼” depending on surface)

● Paint Tray

Steps for Sealing Basement Walls

For this project, I’m going to be using Flex Shot and Flex Seal Liquid MAX. These two products work well together to provide a superior water shield. Below is a step-by-step guide on how I used Flex Seal products for waterproofing my basement walls.

1. Prepare the Area

First, clean the basement walls to ensure an optimal surface for the Flex Seal products to bond to. Use a wire brush to remove any loose paint and dirt. Be sure to wear a face mask when using the wire brush so you do not breathe in any concrete dust particles.

If your concrete walls are showing any signs of efflorescence, (a crystalline deposit of salts that can form when water is present in or on building surfaces) you can use an efflorescence remover to clean up those locations. Mix the remover with water according to the package instructions and apply with a stiff utility brush. After applying, rinse the area with water a few times.

Clean up any dirt, concrete, or paint dust that was removed from your walls with a shop vacuum and set up a dehumidifier and/or fan to aid in the drying process. Allow your walls to dry completely before applying Flex Seal products.

2. Apply Flex Shot

Before you begin, make sure to read all directions and set-up a fan to circulate fresh air into your work area for proper ventilation.

Start by applying Flex Shot into any concrete cracks, joints, and holes. Flex Shot can be applied directly from the tube by pressing the nozzle – no caulking gun needed.

Flexpert Tip: Put on a disposable glove and use your finger to push the Flex Shot into the concrete opening. This will ensure the product completely fills any gaps and provides a complete seal.

After all the holes, cracks, and joints in your concrete walls are fully sealed with Flex Shot, let the product dry for 24 hours.

3. Apply Flex Seal Liquid

Once the Flex Shot is cured, it’s time for Flex Seal Liquid MAX. This is the same formula as Flex Seal Liquid, just in a bigger, 2.5-gallon size, which is perfect for large projects. Flex Seal Liquid is thicker than paint and dries into a strong, rubberized coating. It can also help seal out air, water, and moisture and is chemical and mildew resistant – making it a great choice for your basement walls.

Start by taping off the walls you will be waterproofing with blue painter’s tape.

You may also want to place a drop cloth or plastic sheeting on your floors to avoid spilling any excess product where you do not want it.

Now it’s time to take it to the MAX! Open your container of Flex Seal Liquid MAX and stir the contents before using.

For ease of application, you can transfer some of the Flex Seal Liquid MAX to a smaller container.

Using a small paint brush, begin applying the product to your basement walls – focusing on corners and edges before you transition to using a roller.

Be sure to work your Flex Seal Liquid MAX into all divots, pinholes, and joints for a complete application on all surfaces. Applying the product slowly and with care will ensure adequate coverage.

Once you have painted the corners and edges with your brush, it’s time to set-up your paint roller. The roller size you use will depend on the surface of your walls. For a standard, rough concrete surface, use a ¾” nap roller. For an even rougher concrete surface, opt for a 1-¼” nap roller.

Flexpert Tip: Flex Seal products can be washed off paint brushes and rollers by soaking them in mineral spirits. You can also opt to purchase enough brushes and rollers for two coats of the product and then dispose of the tools afterwards.

Flex Seal Liquid MAX is a self-leveling product, so as you’re putting it on a surface, it may look like a rougher texture, but it will begin to smooth out. Make sure to apply the product slowly, pushing it in as you go as opposed to rolling it so that it enters all the cracks and divots to create a level, sealed surface.

Review your painted surface and use a paint brush to fill in any remaining holes or cracks.

Allow 24-48 hours for your first coat to dry. Two or more coats are recommended for a complete, moisture-resistant seal. Although you cannot paint over Flex Seal Liquid MAX, you may apply as many coats as you’d like.

Once the final coat is dry, it’s time to bask in the glory of your freshly sealed basement!

By Matt Lanteigne

Matt “The Fixer” is a first-time homeowner with over a decade of experience in construction. He uses that experience to work on his “fixer upper” and take on all kinds of projects in between. His goal is to capture his work and knowledge on video with the hope that it will teach, inspire, and motivate others to tackle their own home repairs and DIY projects!

Want to See More Ways DIYers Use Flex Seal Products? Read On:

• How to Make a Bathroom Vanity with Flex Glue

• DIY-er Waterproofs Handcrafted Pontoon Boat

• DIY Flex Shot Spring Face Planters

How to Use Flex Paste

How to Apply Flex Tape

How to Use Flex Seal Spray

How to Use Flex Glue

How to Use Flex Seal Liquid

How to pour concrete floors and walls in a basement

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To ensure acceptable operating conditions for the basement, basement or cellar below ground level, the floor is screed, the walls are cemented and waterproofing is arranged. Implementation of these measures is necessary in cases where:

high level of groundwater;
the basement is used as a residential or garage space;
is used as a workshop or for other technical purposes;
food is stored in the basement.

Stages of cementing and laying waterproofing

The entire technological process of protecting the basement floor can be divided into the following main stages:

carrying out work on the installation of a gravel-sand cushion;

installation of formwork for bay walls;

installation of a waterproofing layer;

reinforcement structure device;

pouring concrete walls;

floor concreting.

Concrete flooring

When laying the concrete floor in the basement, the method of concreting on the ground is used, which is carried out in stages.

leveling the bottom and walls of the excavation;
tamping the soil subfloor;
filling of a layer of fine stone or gravel;
filling of a sandy layer with a thickness of 50 to 100 cm. Compacting it with a roller or ramming with a vibrating machine;
laying a waterproofing layer of roofing felt, waterproofing roofing, rolled bitumen, PVC materials;
the device of a reinforcing layer of metal rods or steel mesh. The thickness of the rods is determined by the planned load on the floor;
installation of beacons to obtain a flat floor surface. Beacons are set using a level at a distance of 100 cm between adjacent beacons;
the choice of material for concreting the floor, this work will require cement grade M400 and higher, which can be purchased from Standard-Resource. As a filler, crushed stone, crushed granite or marble is used.
concrete screed setting and drying. Without the use of special tools, concrete setting occurs within a week. When using vacuum technology, this process takes no more than 7 hours. Full hardening of the concrete screed takes approximately 28 days;
concrete floor finishing is done by grouting and grinding the concrete surface.

Concrete wall pouring

Basement walls are built in a certain sequence.

First you need to start laying the strip foundation:

trenches are dug along the contour of the walls, 15cm–20cm deep and 40cm–60cm wide;
the bottom is covered with a layer of sand from 20 cm to 40 cm thick, which should then be moistened and compacted;
a removable wooden formwork is mounted, which can also be made of non-removable polystyrene boards;
waterproofing is arranged in the form of grooves 3 cm by 3 cm between the walls and the floor, which are filled with waterproofing material;
a structure is assembled for reinforcing the foundation from metal rods;
concrete mortar is poured, which can be purchased from Standard-Resource or prepared by yourself.

The construction of concrete walls in the basement floor is carried out in the following sequence:

the optimal wall thickness is selected, which can be in the range of 20cm-40cm and depends on the number of floors of the building;
installation of a reinforcing frame made of steel bars and thick wire mesh;
metal, aluminum or wooden formwork;
pouring walls with concrete mortar made from M300 cement, in layers, with each subsequent layer being poured onto the bottom layer that has not yet set.

Insulation of basement walls from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of basement walls of a private house

Introduction

Insulation of plinths and basements makes it possible to reduce adverse environmental influences that can spoil the building structure.

Basement wall insulation

Basement wall insulation will reduce heat loss and help save money during the heating season. If you choose the right technology, learn its specifics, then you can do all the necessary actions with your own hands.

What actual problems can be solved if the basement walls are insulated from the outside.

Why is basement wall insulation necessary?

Very small distortions of its shape appear in the form of cracks on the surface of the walls of the building. Dampness, if it gets inside, also reduces the overall reliability of buildings, creates conditions suitable for the life of microorganisms.

Heaving

Let us consider in detail only one group of negative impacts on the foundation from the outside, heaving.

A similar phenomenon occurs in severe frosts. Absorbed water enters certain types of soil. When freezing, it increases in volume, which makes pressure on the foundation part.

Classic sand bedding as a means of protection is not always productive. Meanwhile, a properly designed insulation system can accomplish this task.

Now we turn to the selection of a suitable technology. It is better to create a layer of insulation from the outside. However, let’s see what the insulation of the basement from the inside will give.

Insulation of the basement from the inside

If you choose the insulation of the basement inside the room, then:

Such insulation will make the volume of the room much smaller. It will be necessary to fix materials for insulation work, create a plaster layer, decorative cladding. In the most economical version, the total thickness of all these additions will be at least 80-100 mm.

Internal installation of insulation material shifts the dew point inside the wall. This contributes to the penetration of dampness there and into the room, the formation and appearance of mold. Even an exact correct calculation will not necessarily help to solve this problem.

One of the real ways is to create empty spaces between the individual layers of the insulation system, which provides proper ventilation, but this further increases the overall thickness of the structure.

External insulation can be made without interfering with installed and operating communication systems. They do not require high qualification of employees.

The choice of materials for the execution of works

The total set of materials for the implementation of such a project can vary significantly, because in addition to climatic and architectural features, one will have to keep in mind the artistic needs of the owners of the immovable object.

Therefore, we will consider in detail only the process of selecting material for insulation.

Glass fiber wadding and other fibrous materials should be discarded immediately. Their reliability is not great enough. Most of them have a very high hygroscopicity, which will require the cost of creating additional insulation.

Sand and infills

Expanded clay sand and other granular infills are not very effective. They can absorb and pass moisture.

Polystyrene

If we evaluate all the important indicators, then it is best to create a layer of insulation with extruded polystyrene foam:

more than 0. 25 mm.

Polystyrene has excellent insulating characteristics, thanks to which, for the conditions of central Russia, a plate thickness of 50 mm will be quite enough to provide excellent insulation of the foundation.

This material is strong and lightweight. It can be used in a variety of weather and temperature conditions. It is not difficult to mount on various surfaces.

In order to actually apply all the above pluses in the work, it is necessary to produce insulation with extruded extruded polystyrene foam. This is a type of polystyrene foam.

This type of material is prefabricated, which implies the creation of similar products. All purchased plates will have the same density, hardness and other important parameters for the consumer.

A good method of action when insulating the walls of the basement

Let us exclude from this description a detailed study of preparatory work, but note those that need to be done first: It should be done using modern deep impregnations with the addition of antiseptics that prevent the formation of mold and fungi.

Secondly, perfect leveling of the walls is not required when working with extruded polystyrene foam. However, cracks should be repaired, significant protrusions and depressions should be smoothed out, and other large flaws should be removed.

Thirdly, it is necessary to prepare in advance channels in the structure for ventilation of the basement. To facilitate the adjustment of the inflow of clean air, you can choose devices with bimetallic actuators. They automatically open / close the holes when the temperature changes, perform all their own functions without power supply, additional settings.

Fourthly, at this stage, you need to install a system for draining soil water. To create a drainage system, pipes, specialized membrane fabrics, are used.

Method of basement insulation

Let’s proceed specifically to the method of insulation:

Ditches are being dug along the entire contour of the building. You do not need to fully open the wall of the basement. A depth of about 450-500 mm will be quite enough.

Sand is pouring into the bottom of the cut. This layer must be 150-200 mm thick. It is being compacted.

If the unevenness of the walls is too large, then a suitable layer of plaster is created, hydroprotection.

Specialized adhesives recommended by the extruded polystyrene manufacturer are used to fix the insulation boards. Corner nodes are distinguished by very high heat losses. In these parts of the structure of the building, the thickness of the heat insulator must be increased by approximately 1.5 times compared with the nominal value.

The following layers are gradually created:

primer;
cement mixture and sand;
steel mesh;
primer and sand-cement mixture;
decorative effect coatings.

Conclusion

This version of basement wall insulation is suitable for a section of the wall protruding high above the ground. The artistic parameters of the part of the insulation material deepened into the soil do not need to be improved. To prevent excessive accumulation of water, a blind area is created near the foundation with a slope away from the building.

Insulation of the basement with polystyrene foam

Insulation of the foundation is required even if the basement is not provided for in the house: firstly, most of the cold air enters the house from below, and secondly, without proper thermal and waterproofing, foundation materials wear out faster .

Good reasons why it is necessary to insulate the used basement:

vegetables freeze at sub-zero temperatures;
storage of garden equipment in an uninsulated basement is no different from storage on the street;
installation in such a basement of the boiler room will entail large heat losses, and, consequently, additional fuel costs.

The easiest and cheapest way to solve this problem is to insulate the basement from the inside with polystyrene foam.

Peculiarities of basement insulation with expanded polystyrene

It is recommended to carry out all waterproofing and basement/basement insulation work at the construction stage. If this is not done, some measures can be taken already during operation:

establish a drainage system for the removal of ground/atmospheric water;

Water flows down the wall and enters the drain pipe

waterproof the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;

insulate the basement with polystyrene foam inside and out.

water resistance;
resistant to rot and fungus;
no vapor permeability;
cheap;
ease of handling;
low weight, no additional load on supporting structures.

There are also disadvantages:

all types of EPS are flammable to some extent, and are toxic when burned;
disadvantage of low density foams is brittleness;
Styrofoam is chewed by mice.

Basement insulation with extruded polystyrene foam will cost more, but this material lacks two disadvantages of simple foam plastic: fragility and susceptibility to damage by rodents.

In terms of flammability, it is better to choose types of XPS with class G1-G2: flame retardant impregnations are used in their manufacture, as a result, a self-extinguishing material is obtained.

Among the necessary measures for processing the basement with polystyrene foam is the installation of a drainage system for the removal of ground and atmospheric water, as well as ventilation.

PPS – the material is vapor-tight, in the absence of ventilation, condensate will accumulate on the internal surfaces of the operated basement.

When installing a plinth, it is recommended to make ventilation holes in it in increments of 5 meters. In the future, these “windows” should be closed only in severe frost. To divert water around the perimeter of the house, they dig a drainage ditch, lay pipes, make a blind area, and make a clay castle.

Procedure for installing PPS

1. Seal cracks and voids in the walls with sealant or mounting foam.

2. Roughen up irregularities that might interfere with the fixing of the boards.

3. Treat the walls with waterproofing material: bituminous mastic, liquid rubber, roll material.

4. PPS boards are glued to the surface from the bottom up, end to end. The next row is placed on the previous one with a run of seams.

5. Additionally, fix the material with dowels at the rate of 5 pieces per workpiece: in the corners and in the middle.

6. Foam the seams.

7. Treat the boards on the outside with plaster. In the process, it is recommended to use a reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

8. Penetrating waterproofing (Penetron, etc.) is applied to the cellar ceiling.

9. Styrofoam plates are glued, dowel-nails are fixed.

10. Glue fiberglass mesh, plaster.

With a base of reinforced concrete slabs

If there are reinforced concrete slabs in the basement of the basement:

perform waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with bituminous mastic between the layers;

lay extruded PPS or high density expanded polystyrene;
pour the screed.

If the basement floor is earthen

If the floor is earthen (for example, at strip foundations):

remove the sod, level the surface;
waterproofing material is laid;
pour a gravel-sand cushion, ram. You can also use expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture;
put insulation;

Basement ready for finishing. In this capacity, you can use porcelain tiles, plaster, paint.

Insulation of basement walls from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam

When it is possible to perform external insulation, it is often limited to it. At the same time, labor costs are greater, because earthworks are added: the plinth from the outside must first be dug out.

In addition to XPS, bituminous mastic or other bituminous adhesive, as well as asbestos cement slabs, will be required to process the outside of the foundation.

In the process of preparation:

level the wall;
waterproof the wall with bituminous mastic. Wait for solidification; Treat
with an antifungal agent (slaked lime, blue vitriol).

Approximately 5 days after the waterproofing, the insulation can be started:

1. Stick the XPS onto the waterproofed surface with bituminous mastic. For this purpose, only cold mastics are suitable, which do not have a solvent in their composition. The mastic is evenly distributed over the entire plate, the plate is pressed against the wall and fixed for half a minute.

2. The plates are installed from the bottom up, end to end, tightly fitting to each other. Their thickness should be the same. The height of the masonry above the ground is about half a meter.

3. Foam the seams.

4. Close the masonry from the outside with asbestos-cement boards.

Insulation of basement walls from the outside: what to look for

When building a house, it is important to insulate not only the walls, floor and ceiling, but also the basement. Often, in order to save money, homeowners do not insulate the cellar, which brings with it a lot of problems, namely: the base will constantly be in contact with the soil and the moisture that it contains, which can lead to damage not only to the concrete itself, but also furniture or products in the house. In winter, such a building will freeze through.

Why is it necessary to insulate the basement?

The constant presence of the foundation under the influence of moisture can lead to the following problems:

Concrete will quickly begin to collapse, as moisture will penetrate into its pores, and then expand under the influence of low temperatures. This can lead to cracks and other defects in the base.
The basement will have a permanently low temperature, making it unsuitable for use as living space.
Moisture can cause mold or mildew to grow on walls.
Since the air in the basement will be constantly humid, this may also affect the increased humidity of the rooms located above it. There may also be mold.

What to insulate in the basement?

Partial waterproofing of the basement walls and floor will not completely solve the problem. The floor and ceiling should also be protected from dampness. At the same time, experts note that the insulation of the ceiling can be done only if necessary. In this way, you can achieve better heat retention in the basement.

In the basement, walls and floors are primarily insulated. Ceiling – in some cases.

Few people know that basement insulation should be carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. This article will tell you how to insulate the basement from the outside. This method of insulation will help create a barrier not only from moisture, but also from the cold. If you only do the insulation of the cellar from the inside, then this will not guarantee that moisture and cold will not penetrate inside. Also in this case, mold and fungus may appear on the walls between the insulator and concrete.

The inside of the cellar will need to be insulated only if absolutely necessary. If the walls of the basement are properly insulated from the outside, then internal work can be omitted.

Material and its choice

Since the main problem in the basement is dampness, it is necessary to choose materials that can resist it. Therefore, you should not use mineral wool heaters, which are able to absorb moisture into their structure and lose their properties over a short time.

For thermal insulation or cellar insulation, use:

Extruded polystyrene foam. Thermal conductivity is (0.035−0.04 W/m 2 )
Penoplex (0.03−0.035 W/m 2 )
Expanded clay (0.12 W/m 2 )

most often.

In addition to thermal insulation, waterproofing must also be used. To create a layer that will not let moisture through, you need to use the following materials:

Additives that are added to concrete during construction and prevent the penetration of moisture into the solution from the ground.
Directional insulation.
Coated type insulation.

Stages and rules of external insulation

It is important to know these points, as they directly affect the quality and durability of the basement finish. They are:

Work should only be carried out in dry weather. Since the work on warming and waterproofing the cellar can take several days (everything will depend on the number of workers and the pace of work), it is best to carry out such activities in the summer or early autumn.
The entire wall will need to be insulated, from the foundation to the ceiling (ceiling). If you insulate only part of the base, then this will not work.

Preparation for the process:

Remove the blind area.
Dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the house. Its depth should be at the level of the basement floor. The width is such that it will be easy to carry out work.
Clean the walls from the remnants of building materials and old finishes. It is also important to remove dirt from it.
Examine the wall surface for cracks and chips. If such are found, then they should be sealed with a solution of cement and sand. After the solution hardens, you can continue further work.
If the surface of the basement walls will be finished with foam, then the base will also need to be leveled so that the sheets lay flat.
After preparation, the surface should be primed. It should have several layers. Only after its complete absorption into the base can work be continued.
The waterproofing material can be welded onto the walls after applying the primer.
Further work with insulation can be carried out.

Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam

Works on the insulation of the external wall using these materials can also be carried out on your own. Such work does not require special skills and knowledge. These materials are the most common today, which are used as a heater.

Basement walls are insulated with extruded polystyrene boards

Calculate the wall area and determine how many insulation boards will be required for the job.
It is important to add about 10% per battle to the result obtained.
Prepare the solution.
Spread the adhesive evenly on the foam board and stick it to the base. It is necessary to start carrying out such work from the bottom. Each row is attached to the base with an offset relative to the previous one.
After finishing it is necessary to coat the seams between the sheets. This should be done with a cement mortar. Also, if necessary, you can cover the entire surface of the plates with such a solution.

Expanded clay

This material is free-flowing, and therefore it is also possible to carry out laying work on its own. The disadvantage of such insulation is that it is necessary to make too large a layer, since its thermal conductivity is lower than that of polystyrene. The recommended layer is 10-20 centimeters.

Scheme of insulation of basement walls with expanded clay

Another wall is being built at a distance of 20-30 cm from the basement wall. You can make it out of brick.
Gravel is falling on the bottom.
Drainage is laid and diverted away from the building.
Expanded clay is poured into the gap between the walls.
The second additional wall on the outside must also be waterproofed.

After that, expanded clay is compacted and a concrete screed is made on top of it. Under it is also important to put waterproofing. You can refuse to install insulation.

Floor and its insulation

It is not only basement walls that must be waterproofed and insulated. Such work should be carried out with the floor. They are made using the same material that was used for the walls. Expanded clay should be poured or foam plastic should be laid between the lags, first covering the floor with a waterproofing material. From above, you can also put a film under the main floor so that moisture does not enter the room.

Scheme of floor insulation in the basement on the ground

If there is no log system on the floor, then it can be done on your own using a beam. They are also recommended to be waterproofed with a solution that will prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. It is necessary to place the beam from each other at a distance of 50 centimeters, connecting them with planks. On top of the first layer of waterproofing, if necessary, insulation can be placed. After carrying out such work, the main floor is mounted and its finishing is carried out.

Video on the topic: warming the basement of a private house

Knowing these points, you can insulate not only the walls in the house, but also in the basement, which will ensure a comfortable microclimate throughout the home. You can handle this job on your own. It does not require special skills and training. It is only important to follow the recommendations given in the article.

How to insulate the walls of the cellar from the outside?

The cellars of modern country houses are no longer associated with gloomy and damp rooms that are scary to enter. In an effort to get as much usable space as possible in their home, suburban homeowners are trying to equip baths, saunas, gyms, workshops and other premises in the basement. During the year, the temperature in the basement changes slightly, due to the location of this room underground. In addition to this, inside the basement it is very important to provide an acceptable microclimate for human stay. That is why you should pay attention to the insulation of the basement from the outside.

All insulation work must be carried out at the stage of building a house. It will be extremely difficult to isolate the basement in an already built house.

Approximately 25% of heat losses that occur in the most ordinary country house occur precisely because of poor thermal insulation of the underground part of the building. In the event that the basement or cellar does not have effective insulation, heat loss during the heating season will be simply enormous.

Insulate inside or outside?

Basement can be insulated both inside and out, but external thermal insulation will give a much stronger effect than internal insulation. Insulation of the walls of the cellar from the inside is appropriate in cases where it is not possible to perform it from the outside. The outer layer of insulation will protect the wall and moisture-proof coating from temperature and mechanical influences. In turn, internal thermal insulation can contribute to the appearance of water at the point of contact of the insulation with the basement wall.

External insulation has many advantages over internal insulation.

External insulation of a cellar or basement has many advantages:

The general microclimate will be improved in the basement.
Basement or cellar walls will become warmer.
No more condensation on the walls.
Basement dimensions will remain the same after all works.
A more economical solution.
Thermal bridges will not form in a properly made thermal insulation layer.
External waterproofing will be protected from mechanical impact.

Preliminary waterproofing of the room

Horizontal waterproofing of the room is carried out before the insulation (if it has not already been done). You can choose any insulating materials (the market offers a wide range). Only after the waterproofing is done, you can begin to warm the walls of the basement or cellar from the outside.

The surface of the thermal insulation material, which will be located below the ground level, is recommended to be additionally treated with waterproof mastic. In addition, before insulating the walls of the basement from the outside, these walls need to be leveled. It will not be superfluous to apply antifungal agents.

Works on the external thermal insulation of the basement are recommended to be started 5-7 days after you have completed all measures to protect against moisture.

Insulation procedure

To insulate walls from the outside, special plate insulation is usually used, which is easy to install. Plates with the help of adhesive mixtures or mastics are fixed to the waterproofing layer. Treating the entire surface of the insulation board with mastic reduces the risk of displacement of the insulation during ground movement.

It is recommended to carry out insulation immediately during the construction of the house.

Cold mastic must be applied to the surface of the board, then pressed against the wall until the adhesive hardens (usually 30-40 seconds).

The laying of heat-insulating boards should start from below (strictly along the perimeter), the boards may protrude 30-40 cm above the ground.

It is important that the heat-insulating boards be of the same thickness. In addition, it is necessary to monitor their tight abutment to each other. All formed voids are recommended to be immediately sealed with construction foam. In the future, the plates will be reliably supported by a layer of soil. The main thing is that they do not disperse and do not move.

Insulation of the basement walls, as noted above, should be carried out at the construction stage of the building. If for some reason this was not done, then it is better to isolate the basement on your own only from the inside. External insulation in a built house can only be done by professionals. Doing such work yourself, without having the appropriate skills, is not recommended due to the high risk of weakening the foundation and walls of the building.

Floor insulation

If the floor or cellar ceiling is not insulated, then all work related to the insulation of the basement walls from the outside becomes useless.

Thermal insulation material for the cellar floor must have a high resistance to mechanical stress. In addition, insulation must be carried out with materials that are resistant to moisture. As a striking example of such a heat insulator, ordinary polystyrene foam or modern polystyrene foam can be cited.

Expanded clay layer under concrete screed.

Often homeowners use mineral wool based thermal insulation materials. However, such heaters pass moisture and quickly collapse. Also, bulk heat-insulating materials are often used when installing cellar insulation.

First of all, you need to prepare the base for the floor. To do this, broken brick or coarse gravel is poured onto the leveled and dried soil. If it is not possible to drain the soil to the end, then crushed stone (or other drainage) must be used (it should also be saturated with greasy clay or bitumen).

Expanded clay, peat or even coal often act as heat-insulating material for floor insulation.

The floor itself is made from prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs or poured from cement mortar. Any decorative coating can be laid on the finished concrete pavement.

The process of installing and insulating the floor in the cellar can be represented as follows:

The soil level in the cellar is deepened by 20-30 cm, after which it is carefully leveled.
A layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is filled up and well compacted. This is the so-called “drainage layer”.
A cushion of sand no more than 10 cm thick is laid on the crushed stone layer, everything is compacted again.
The resulting “pie” is filled with hot bituminous compound.
A layer of expanded clay is poured on top for insulation.
Reinforcement is made and concrete mortar is poured.

Chief editor of the site, civil engineer. He graduated from SibSTRIN in 1994, since then he has worked for more than 14 years in construction companies, after which he started his own business. Owner of a construction company.

Basement insulation

Thanks to basement insulation, you can significantly reduce the heat loss of a brick or wooden house, highly reliably protect its walls from destruction and dampness due to frosty swelling of the soil, significantly save on heating bills in the cold season.

Even if you are not going to heat the basement after insulation, the temperature in it will not drop below +10 degrees even in severe frosts.

The price of thermal insulation materials is not particularly high, so doing the insulation yourself, you will not spend too much money.

Why it is necessary to insulate the basement

As you know, the temperature in rooms located at a depth (in the basement or underground garage) remains quite stable throughout the year, but it is far from the optimal value.

In order to bring this indicator back to normal, it is worth learning how to competently insulate the basement, and do this work correctly, which will make it possible to use this room to good use.

The thermal energy that could be used to heat residential premises heats your uninsulated basement, as a result, the consumption of electricity, gas or other heat carrier increases.

If you don’t insulate the basement, you will start to pay for the “overspending” that you absolutely don’t need. A dry insulated basement significantly reduces heat loss in the house – by at least 20%, and in addition, it saves the walls of the house from the harmful effects of dampness.

In addition to savings, there is another good reason to insulate the basement with expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, polystyrene or mineral wool.

It is believed that the temperature of the floors in the house should not fall below three degrees from the values in the residential area. But floor slabs, which are common to the basement and rooms on the 1st floor.

And if the cold coming from the basement does not freeze the floor (after all, cold air always creeps down), in this case the legs will be warm and comfortable.

Features of basement insulation

They insulate the basement in quite different ways, but the most effective is the insulation produced from the outside. With this technique, the heat-insulating material used is mounted outside, thereby preventing freezing of the basement outer walls.

When insulation is carried out from the inside, condensation forms at the joints of the walls and insulation, which spoils the created coating. That is why you should not neglect the thorough waterproofing of the wall surface.

Choose an insulating material that can withstand moisture well. An excellent option for this is polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam plastic.

Naturally, it is best to insulate the basement at the stage of building a house, since such work can be combined with the arrangement of the drainage system and waterproofing.

Styrofoam insulation

Quite often, mineral wool and expanded clay are used as insulation, but these materials do not meet the requirements for basement insulation.

They must be resistant to moisture and be able to withstand the load exerted on them by the ground.

Styrofoam, which is obtained by extrusion, satisfies all the stated requirements.

This material has a thermal conductivity three times less than mineral wool, and about a hundred times less than it, absorbs moisture, while perfectly perceiving weighty loads.

When using foam plastic for external insulation, its not the best qualities, such as poor fire resistance and low toxicity, become completely irrelevant.

Due to the fact that the extruded foam has closed cells, it practically does not pass or absorb moisture.

Styrofoam insulated in the following order. First, horizontal waterproofing is performed from Uniflex EPP, and then foam plastic is glued around the entire perimeter.

Insulation, which is located lower than the ground level, is covered with TechnoNIKOL No. 21 moisture-repellent mastic and sprinkled with soil. And the foam, located above the soil level, is plastered, and then lined with panels.

Depending on the purpose of the basement, the wall surfaces are plastered or lined with wall panels or tiles.

Extruded polystyrene foam insulation

Extruded polystyrene foam, produced in the form of plates, can be used as insulation, which has versatility and excellent thermal insulation properties.

One of these manufacturers is TechnoNikol, which produces boards for insulation of underground structures – TechnoNikol xps 30-200 Standard.

It is completely non-hygroscopic (absorbs water very poorly), which is important for basement insulation, which often comes into contact with water.

Due to the presence of air pores, this material is already a good heat insulator in itself, and any of its “brothers” will envy the period of trouble-free operation of expanded polystyrene.

Often, thermal insulation is carried out from the outside of the building after the necessary waterproofing work has been carried out. Based on hydraulic conditions, it is divided into coating and pasting.

When it is not possible to insulate the walls from the outside, insulation can be installed from the inside.

Naturally, this is done in the basement and before starting these construction activities, you should check the room – how great is the possibility of condensation in it.

If the problem is urgent, you should first deal with it, and only then proceed directly to the insulation work.

There are two ways to insulate the walls inside the basement.

1st involves the installation of expanded polystyrene boards using special mastics, whose composition does not include substances harmful to this material.

2nd variant – use of mechanical fastening with application of a finishing layer at the end of the work.

Before proceeding with the process of installing the slabs, it is necessary to carry out vertical waterproofing of the basement walls. The attachment of polystyrene foam plates is carried out using the following algorithm – first, the waterproofing layer is slightly melted (in places in 3 – 5), then the material itself is pressed against them.

The main thing here is not to overdo it by pushing through the surface, otherwise the product will be damaged. But you shouldn’t press too lightly either.

If the boards are attached with special mastics, the adhesives are applied pointwise. The calculation is something like this – 10 pieces per one polystyrene foam plate, whose size is 1.25 m by 0.6 m.

Anchors must also be installed in the basement area – 4 pieces for each of the products.

It is important to know – the correct insulation of the house base implies the location of expanded polystyrene boards in the so-called. checkerboard pattern. In the future, they are supported by the soil, which supports the structure.

If the basement has external doors or windows, the thermal insulation must be exactly the same as that performed for the above-ground part of the structure.

. fresh or canned.

In case of poor-quality thermal insulation both outside and inside, moisture accumulation and unfavorable temperature conditions are created, which causes the development of mold and rot.

Insufficient waterproofing may cause groundwater ingress.

The solution to these issues is possible with proper and proper insulation of the cellar.

Walls

The main purpose of insulating cellar walls from the inside is to protect against heat loss.

Reliable insulation of wiring is also considered important to prevent short circuits, breakdowns and fires. When insulating, the following goals must be achieved:

dry walls;
good wire insulation;
waterproofing of joints between walls and foundations;
treatment of walls with special means to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus;
wall surface insulation from the inside.

Consider some options for insulation.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is a fairly inexpensive and reliable option for insulating a cellar or basement. The material has high thermal insulation, is easy to use, if necessary, covered with any solution.

In case of high humidity, it is recommended to use foam with a density of 25 kg/m³ and above, the properties of which allow moisture to pass through. It is also possible to use extruded polystyrene foam, which costs an order of magnitude more expensive, but at the same time has absolute hydrophobicity and a long service life.

[warning] Important to know: The disadvantage of these materials is their high level of combustion. Therefore, if the wires in the cellar pass through the insulation, they should be laid in a cable channel. [/warning]

The first step is to carefully seal the seams, joints and cracks with mounting foam or sealant. If there is a possibility of underwater water ingress, it is recommended to do the treatment with a penetrating solution, which experts note as the best remedy for moisture.

Stage

Consider step-by-step wall insulation with foam plastic:

fixing the wooden frame to the walls;
laying the foam as tightly as possible inside the frame;
fixing insulation with dowels – 5 pieces per sheet;
sealing joints and gaps with mounting foam;
gluing the installation mesh with subsequent plastering.

With these manipulations, it is very important to take care of the front door and also insulate it.

Mineral wool and glass wool

Glass fiber has a low thermal conductivity and is flame retardant.

At the same time, the material requires high-quality waterproofing, since water and any increase in humidity adversely affect it.

Otherwise, the mineral wool will rot in one season and the issue of insulation will again become open.

Under plaster it is recommended to use a solid type of insulation, under bars – a material for sheathing roll type.

Polyurethane foam

The material is the most reliable and durable way of insulation.

The absence of seams and resistance to moisture allows you to create a high level of thermal insulation and the maximum allowable indoor climate. At the same time, the cost of the material is quite high when compared with previously presented analogues.

Polyurethane foam is an environmentally friendly material, so it will be the best option for insulation in rooms intended for storing vegetables and preparations.

Ceiling

Concrete ceiling slabs in the cellar are subject to the most freezing. It is possible to provide a dry and warm atmosphere by using moisture-proofing substances that need to be treated on the ceiling.

After drying, foam sheets are glued on top of dry concrete and additionally fixed with dowels. It is also possible to stuff the slats and then lay insulation in them.

After that, all joints of the structure must be sealed with mounting foam. Then the mounting grid and a layer of plaster are adjusted.

Floor

The floor plays an important role in ensuring the optimum temperature and favorable indoor climate. For reliability and durability, flooring requires hydro and thermal insulation, which is achieved in several ways.

Warming with the use of expanded clay takes place in several stages, namely:

the base is leveled, after which it is covered with roofing material, on which a waterproofing agent is glued;
expanded clay is poured, its layer should be 10-25 cm;
concrete screed with reinforcement is poured on expanded clay.

Stages of floor insulation with sand and crushed stone:

the prepared surface is covered with crushed stone for 15-20 cm, then with a layer of sand 5-10 cm;
the surface is covered with roofing felt or building film for reliable waterproofing;
installation of reinforced belt and concrete pouring.

Styrofoam floor insulation:

preparation of a gravel or sand pad, subsequently covered with a waterproofing barrier;
laying foam on the surface;
pouring screed.

[advice] Please note: the cellar must have ventilation, which will ensure air circulation and reduce condensation. [/advice]

, barn or separate building. In any case, the general recommendations presented in the article can be safely applied in practice.

How to insulate a cellar or basement, see the following video:

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Basement Waterproofing

Waterproofing your basement and keeping it dry is a key factor in preventing mold growth. Because: Humidity in the basement is a fairly common problem, how it can be counteracted and what you should definitely pay attention to in this article.

Older houses without water-repellent barrier layers are particularly affected. In historical buildings, the floor most likely consists of crushed clay. The same material was once used as a protective layer for walls.

This basement must be waterproofed as soon as possible. You can make waterproofing from professionals – http://ims-konstrukt.ru/gidroizolyatsiya-podvala.html

Basements of this type, which were often built with vaulted ceilings, almost always have a certain amount of moisture. This moisture in the basement usually does not cause any problems. On the contrary: in the old days, it created favorable conditions for storing food, especially vegetables and fruits.

Potatoes planted for the winter do not dry out at a humidity of about 70% and remain fresh until spring. A cool, damp cellar is also best for storing wine.

Waterproof your basement: first analyze, then repair

Moisture, moisture and mold damage building structure in the long term. Therefore, in damp basements, it is recommended that act immediately with to prevent damage from spreading.

Dampness in a basement can have many causes. Sometimes, when investigating the causes, the crucial aspect is simply overlooked, and the containment of the wet becomes far away.

In the event of natural disasters such as high water, flooding and heavy rain, there is no need to look for a trigger. A subsequent refurbishment may need to include basement watertight windows to better prepare for the next flood.

Waterproof does not automatically mean waterproof. We talk about waterproofing when there is round-the-clock protection against water penetration.

What can cause dampness in a basement?

In principle, the causes of dampness in an apartment or in the basement can be divided into three main categories:

There are permeable areas or even groundwater in the basement. In these cases, sealing becomes mandatory.
Water leaks uncontrollably as a result of a pipe burst.
Wrong ventilated .

In the case of new buildings, a fourth option can be added if the building envelope has not dried sufficiently and there is still moisture in the masonry .

If the basement is surrounded by a watertight reinforced concrete structure, the so-called white tank, moisture cannot escape.

Under these conditions, experts recommend the use of dehumidifiers and recommend systematic heating and ventilation for the first four years after occupancy. Otherwise, the humidity will remain constant and there is a high risk of mold.

How does moisture in the basement make itself felt?

If the walls feel damp and there is a musty smell in the air, there is too much moisture in the basement. Perhaps the plaster is already peeling off the wall, or soft white fluff is growing in places.

Mold on damp wall

Efflorescence on surfaces due to dissolved salts. Because moist soil is an ideal breeding ground for fungi, basement moisture often accompanies mold or dry rot.

The type of humidity can give clues to the trigger factor. Widespread wall moisture without concrete damage to the plaster indicates condensation, and porous plaster mortar indicates water intrusion in certain places.

Tip:
hygrometers measure humidity. If the measurement result consistently exceeds 60%, moisture damage in the cellar cannot be ruled out.

Possible causes of dampness in the basement

Below is a detailed list of conditions that occur when the basement is damp:

Improper ventilation

Proper ventilation means opening windows only early in the morning or late in the evening in summer so that the day’s moisture that condenses on the cold basement walls stays outside.

Pipe burst

Damaged pipe wets building fabric. If necessary, professional leak detection is necessary so that the damaged area can be found and the burst pipe can be repaired.

Rising humidity

If the moisture coming from below is stopped by a new horizontal seal, the basement dries out in the following time.

Faulty drainpipes.

If the roof rainwater drainage system is clogged, broken, or has holes, water will run onto the wall of the house, which will absorb water over time. With a functioning roof gutter system, basement moisture will soon become a thing of the past.

Missing or defective vertical seal

The basement wall can be sealed from the outside or from the inside. It is also possible that rainwater is collecting on the basement wall due to lack of drainage. When the drain is installed, the water drains.

What are the options to waterproof the basement again?

Seal basement wall

Basement wall sealed from the outside if possible. To do this, along the foundation wall, it is necessary to dig a trench that reaches the top of the foundation.

Rented mini excavator makes the job easier. Peeled plaster and remnants of old insulating material must be removed. The next step is to seal cracks and holes in the masonry.

After complete drying, a thick bituminous coating is applied to the wall. Basement wall sealing can be supplemented with drainage, perimeter insulation and corrugated sealing sheet.

Insulate the basement from the inside

An alternative is to seal the basement from the inside if the area directly around the house is not accessible, ie. B. in frontier developments, public sidewalks, or outbuildings without a basement.

The sealing of the inner basement wall is ideally done in several layers: first primer, then sealant, then seal holes and cracks, and finally repair plaster. Waterproof basement windows also protect against flooding.

Tip:
The individual components for sealing the basement from the inside must be coordinated and harmonized with each other.

seal bottom plate

Old buildings often lack horizontal sealing, causing moisture to rise into the floor and into the masonry. Extended wet periods can cause groundwater to seep into the basement.

Horizontal barrier prevents capillary rise of moisture. The most suitable method in each case depends on the degree of moisture penetration, the design and building materials used in the building.

Professional ground floor sealing involves several work steps, starting with the excavation of the old floor and foundation structure. The blinding layer must be at least 5 cm.

Followed by base plate, sealant, insulation, separating layer and screed. You can do without a completely new design of the basement, it is enough to apply a primer and asphalt screed to prevent future moisture from entering.

bath white

White tank usually used for new buildings. It consists of precast concrete elements or is cast on site from fresh concrete.

Black tub

A protective layer of thick bituminous coating or plastic film is called a black tank. An additional blind layer is used to seal the base plate.

Preparing before erecting a building is also common here, because subsequent extensions can only be achieved with great difficulty and great financial expense.

Conclusion:

In order for a basement to be waterproof, the cause of the dampness and dampness of the basement must first be known. Because of the many possibilities, determining the actual cause can take time and effort.

Once the source of moisture is found and is not caused by condensation or damaged water or sewer pipes, there is a high possibility that the basement should be sealed as a remedial measure to prevent further damage.

Depending on the extent of the damage, the repair work includes sealing the basement wall and/or sealing the basement. If necessary, seek the help of a professional.

WATERPROOFING AND MOISTURE PROTECTION OF BASEMENT WALLS

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Foundation Wall Exterior Moisture Shield prevents basement moisture from penetrating into the walls. On the inside, it is applied to prevent the movement of moisture from concrete or concrete blocks into the wooden frame, which holds the insulation and interior decoration. Moisture protection is of various types. Most often, the wall is covered with thick bituminous material, plastic sheeting, or other flat material.

Waterproofing, in contrast to moisture protection, is arranged in case of serious hydrological problems, in particular with a high level of groundwater. While moisture protection is arranged on all foundation walls, waterproofing is needed only under hydrostatic pressure. In such cases, you should seek professional help from an experienced consultant. Often special measures are needed that can protect the foundation walls from water and water pressure.

To protect against moisture, the outer surfaces of cast-in-situ concrete walls and concrete block walls below the

level of the layout should be covered with a thick layer of bituminous mastic from the foundation to the level of the clean layout. Such protection is usually sufficient to make the wall watertight under normal water pressure after rain or normal soil moisture.

More reliable protection against moisture is provided by a special dense fiberglass insulation, as well as various commercially available drainage layers, which will be described below.

In poorly drained soils, waterproofing may be required, which is a waterproof membrane of two layers of bitumen impregnated roofing material. The roofing material is glued to the wall in two layers, and both layers are glued together, after which they are covered with liquid bitumen.

In the presence of hydrostatic pressure, insulation with a double-layer membrane alone on the wall is insufficient. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor slab, which is placed between two layers of concrete each at least 75 mm (3 in) thick. The floor membrane must be connected to the wall membrane and thus create a complete seal. In many cases, foundations subjected to hydrostatic pressure require additional measures to reduce this pressure and prevent structural damage.

It is clear that waterproofed foundations do not require moisture insulation. Waterproofing provides all normally required moisture insulation.

Backfill behind basement walls should be done carefully so as not to damage the moisture or waterproofing, insulation and drainage layer.

Moisture protection is also needed on the inside of the walls of concrete or concrete blocks, in contact with a wooden crock, which is maintained and the internal deposit was maintained and the internal deposits are maintained and the internal deposits are established , it prevents the movement of moisture from the wall into the wooden frame Moisture protection starts from the basement floor and ends with the level of the outer planning mark of the earth In this case, polyethylene cannot be used, since it is not breathable enough

DRAINAGE AROUND FOUNDATIONS

Most homes require groundwater drainage to keep the basement dry and free of water on the floor. Drainage is almost always arranged, except when there are well-draining soils around the walls of the basement, making additional drainage unnecessary. Drainage around the basement walls usually consists of a perforated drainage pipe along the perimeter of the basement and, sometimes, a drainage layer along the height of the walls

Drain pipe can often be replaced with a layer of crushed stone granular material (see below)

Drain pipe should be laid on undisturbed soil around foundations so that its highest point is below the basement or underground floor and the entire pipe has a slight slope towards the drain Pipe then covered with a layer of coarse, clean gravel or crushed stone at least 150 mm (6 in) thick (fig. 25)

Drain pipe is connected to a normal, dense water pipe that drains water to a sewer or other source of water Good drainage is essential to prevent water infiltration in the basement B in some cases, a sump (catchment well) device may be required

Wet sites sometimes require special drainage measures, such as drain pipes under the basement slab to reduce hydrostatic pressure on the walls and slab. groundwater,

the foundations for it must be designed by an engineer or architect

With foundation walls made of impregnated wood, a crushed stone drainage layer in combination with a sump should be provided. mechanically The crushed stone layer should be at least 300 mm (12 dm) wider than the foundation and if the layer is thicker than 200 mm (8 dm) it should be compacted

This gravel layer drainage method is applicable to any type of foundation. With concrete foundations on a natural base, holes with a diameter of 60 mm (2.5 dm) are arranged at the bottom of the foundation tape at intervals of 1.2 m (4 ft) to pass water to the intake well (sump) (Fig. 26).

In some parts of the country, building codes require drainage layers around foundation walls.

Consult the building authority in your area. The drainage material of such layers is usually installed outside the foundation walls. The layers are designed to drain rainwater from the surface of the walls to the drainage pipe and protect the basement from water penetration through small cracks or poorly sealed holes left after the removal of formwork bonds.

The drainage layer is usually 19 mm (3/4 dm) thick mineral fiber insulation or thicker with a density of about 57 kg/m ³ There are other drainage materials available Alternatively, granular gravel backfill drainage can be done around the walls. It is important that the drainage layer provides a direct drainage of water to the drainage pipe, preventing it from accumulating at the base of the walls. The crushed stone layer covering the drainage pipe must be of sufficient height so that the bottom of the drainage layer is hidden under it

As with basement walls, surface drainage should be away from basement windows. Basement windows located below ground level should have light wells (Fig. 27). The walls of the pits are usually galvanized steel sheets made of thin-sheet iron profiled for strength. These pits are sold for various sizes of window openings. If the pit walls are made of concrete, formwork and concreting are done after the backfill has been compacted.

If the backfill consists of non-draining soil, a drain in the form of a pipe or a 150 mm (6 in) diameter drilled and crushed hole is installed at the bottom of the light well leading down to the base drain pipe.

BACKFILLING

Backfilling behind the basement walls must not be done until the beams have been installed and preparation for the first floor floors has been made. This rule applies equally to monolithic concrete walls, walls made of small concrete blocks and wooden walls. Table 1 gives the maximum heights of the level mark behind the basement walls for both cases with and without horizontal bracing.

The backfill material must be free of large stones, clay clods and construction debris. Such inclusions increase the pressure on the foundation wall and, among other things, may cause settlement or uneven drainage. Ensure that the backfill material is of suitable quality and preferably has good drainage characteristics.

e.g. cracked. Therefore, it is important that backfilling is done gradually and evenly around the entire perimeter with small

The sudden application of pressure to Foundation Walls from backfill loads can cause them to warp and damage,

in layers, each layer must be compacted to the proper density before the next is laid. Care should also be taken not to damage the external structures of the insulation, drainage and moisture protection and waterproofing membranes.

INSULATION

FOUNDATION WALLS

WALLS

Thermal insulation of foundation walls is one of the means of keeping heat in the house. Depending on the specific technical solution, thermal insulation can also perform additional functions, for example, serve as a drainage layer on the outside of the house. Basement insulation requirements vary from province to province. Contact your local municipality for information on the requirements in force in the construction area.

Foundation walls can be insulated from the outside or inside. Insulation on the inside of basement walls can be done along their entire height or only from the ceiling to a line 600 mm (2 ft) below ground level behind the wall. With internal insulation, it is often necessary to make a wooden frame on which the insulation and wall decoration rest. With this solution, a finished basement is created, increasing the living area of the house.

Mounting the insulation on the outside of the walls has its advantages. Such thermal insulation can serve as drainage and at the same time thermal protection. External thermal insulation also reduces temperature differences in the wall, which in many cases reduces thermal stresses and sometimes the formation of cracks that accompanies them. However

external insulation, since it must be above ground level, has to be covered with a special protective layer, which is a disadvantage of this solution

FOUNDATIONS AND UNDERGROUND WALLS 6 dm) above ground level.

For foundations and foundation walls, trenches are dug, and the depth of foundations is determined by the condition of the soil and the depth of freezing (see table 3). The dimensions of the foundations are usually chosen the same as for the walls of the basement. Cellar walls can be in-situ concrete, concrete blocks, or wood, but because cellar floors are never much lower than outside ground level, they are usually made thinner than cellar walls. Table 1 gives the minimum wall thicknesses for stable soils.

Pillar foundations that support floor beams must rest on a solid, undisturbed base and require additional excavation Such piers are made of concrete, concrete blocks or wood Sinks around column foundations are filled with soil when the underground floor is leveled Insulation methods underflooring, which is carried out along the perimeter of the walls or under the floors of residential premises, are covered in more detail in chapter “Insulation”

Underground ventilation and flooring

When the underground floor is below the level of the outer plan, the foundation walls must be insulated from moisture. Around the foundations

a drainage pipe is laid, which is connected to the external drainage. The floor of the underground and entrances is made with a slope towards the drainage pipe and covered with a 0.15 mm thick polyethylene film or rolled roof insulation sheets (type S) with an overlap of panels of 100 mm. Floor covering is done to protect the underground from soil moisture. Underground must be ventilated See chapter “Ventilation”.

GARAGE FOUNDATIONS

Garage foundations are usually constructed of concrete or concrete blocks, although solid slab or wooden foundations are sometimes used. shown in table 3

If underfloor padding is required, it should preferably be of granular material and should be well compacted to avoid settling. mm (3 dm) If there is no floor drain, the floor is made with a slope towards the entrance

Garage floor detailing and concrete placement and maintenance should be carried out as recommended for basement floors Control joints should be made at panel distances close to square. One control joint is sufficient for a one car garage

Foundation walls must be no thinner than 150 mm (6 in) and must rise at least 150 mm above the surrounding layout

m (8 ft) apart, with at least two bolts per strap Additional anchors may be needed on the side of the garage door

Additional literature

Construction of foundations from impregnated wood

Canadian Standardization

Residential House: Part 1 –

9000 9000 9000

Canadian Kanadsky and Military Corphytm and Corphanas 10.1: Foundations for Prefabricated Homes (Video)

Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation

Waterproofing houses on the Atlantic coast

Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation

Lumber and other wood products

SITE STORAGE AND MATERIAL CARE

Proper storage and handling of materials on site prior to use is essential. If materials are stored without protection from the weather, their quality deteriorates, the amount of waste increases and there is a waste in the production of works.

As far as possible, materials and parts should be delivered to the site just before they are used or installed. This applies primarily to external door and window units, as well as to external finishing wooden parts. Interior finishing materials, once the roof is completed, can be stored inside the house.

In the normal course of construction stages, lumber of frame parts and sheet formwork are delivered to the site after the completion of the foundations. Of course, already installed structures and a wooden frame, before the walls and roof close the house, get wet in the rain, but the moisture remains on the surface and dries quickly when dry weather sets in, without causing damage.

However, lumber stored in dense stacks can absorb and retain moisture, drying very slowly and for a long time. Such situations should be avoided, as staining and rotting of the wood is possible. Stacked lumber should be laid on pads raised above the ground and covered with sheets of waterproof material with water runoff. Under the gaskets, it is also recommended to lay sheets of polyethylene to moisten from the evaporation of the earth.

Once the framing has begun, you can start accepting shingles or roof tiles. Ruberoid tiles in packs should be stored on a flat, flat surface, avoiding bends. Curved or dented tiles will spoil the look of the roof.

Windows and doors are usually installed after the roof. If window and door units arrive earlier than they are needed for installation, they should be stored indoors. Good blocks are very expensive, and open storage in bad weather can damage them. Particular attention should be paid to window blocks with frames installed in them.

Thermal insulation, interior wall finishes, ceiling fittings, wood wall finishes and similar materials can be stored in the home. Heavy materials, such as dry plaster sheets, should be spread evenly over a large area on the floor so as not to overload the floor beams. A large load concentrated for a long time in one place can cause irreparable deflection of the beams.

Floor boards and parquet, wood trim and moldings should not be stored in the house until the concrete slab of the basement floor is sufficiently hardened. Concrete, when cured, releases moisture, which causes swelling of materials dried in dryers and subsequent shrinkage after their installation.

The main elements of a wooden frame are sawn timber of standard sizes (measured sawn timber). They create a supporting frame that forms the shell of the house and divides the space with planes, along which the finish is then applied. In addition to lumber, other wood products are often used in the construction of the frame, external walls and interior decoration. Each of these products is designed for specific applications and manufactured to specific standards.

The most commonly used lumber for framing has a thickness of 38 to 89 mm (1 1/2 to 3 1/2 dm) and is called standard or measured. Timber is commonly referred to as sawn timber thicker than 11.4 mm (4 1/2 in). In addition to these two types of material, wood is divided into groups of floorings, boards and finishes. Table 6 lists the grades, main grades, applications, and grade categories for a variety of standard lumber sizes.

GRADE MARKING

Lumber used in construction is marked in Canada with a stamp that indicates that the material complies with the National Lumber Grades Authority (NLGA) grading regulations for Canadian lumber. The grades and stamp must also comply with Canadian CSA 0141

Sawn Softwood. The stamp usually indicates the name or symbol (sometimes both) of the grading service, the designation of the species or mixture of species, the grade, the moisture content at manufacture, and the factory number.

The “S-GRN” moisture content marking indicates that the lumber has been manufactured with a moisture content of more than 19% and is cut to dimensions that allow for natural dry shrinkage. The designation “S-DRY” indicates a moisture content of no more than 19% while the manufacture of “MC 15” indicates a moisture content of no more than 15%.

Canadian stamp designs are shown in tables 7 and 8.

LUMBER GRADES

Each individual piece of lumber is inspected and assigned a grade based on its physical characteristics. In addition to visually sorted sawn timber, sawn timber is sold in Canada sorted using machine-stress-rated (MSR) sorting. Machine sorting of lumber allows you to set grades according to the structural qualities of wood, regardless of the species, which is quite enough for the purposes of wooden frame construction in most cases.

Many softwoods in Canada are harvested, processed and sold together. Breeds that have similar characteristics and can easily be combined with each other

are combined into a single group and are designated by a common group marking. The combined commercial nomenclature for Canadian lumber is given in Table 9.

Premium lumber is referred to as Select Structural lumber and is used only in structures that require increased strength, stiffness and good appearance. Grade No. 1 lumber often contains some selected construction grade material, although Grade No. 1 knottiness is somewhat higher.

Tests have shown that grades No. 1 and 2 have the same strength. They are in wide demand for applications in many designs. Grade No. 3 is used in designs where appearance does not matter.

38 x 89 mm (2 x 4 in.) and 38 x 140 mm (2 x 6 in.) lumber are available in studs. Post pieces are rigid and straight elements suitable for vertical wall constructions. The lumber size 38 x 89 (2×4 dm) mm is also available in structural, standard, blank and economy grades. Structural and standard grades are used for structural elements. The strength of the structural grade is close to the strength of grade No. 3, and the strength of the standard grade is slightly lower. Blank and economical grades are not used for structures. Economic grade – the lowest of all listed.

The acceptable minimum lumber grades for various structures in timber frame construction – such as wall frames and studs, sheathing and

frames, columns and beams, floor preparations and formwork – are established by the Canadian National Building Code. Tables of maximum allowable spans for both Visually Graded and Machine Graded (MSR) grades are available from the Canadian Timber Board. This publication contains several tables of maximum beam spans for various types of wood.

Softwood lumber dimensions are the same in both metric and imperial feet-inches, but in metric the actual thickness and width of the piece after processing is given in millimeters. The concept of “nominal size” does not apply. Table 10 shows the ratio of metric sizes to their actual and nominal equivalents in the imperial system.

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See also:

Running long jump technique

Organization of the procedure room

Applications of synchronous machines

Wiener and Kalman optimization

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Basement and foundation waterproofing from the inside, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the basement floor and walls

RASTRO → Project documentation → Waterproofing of basements and foundations → Waterproofing of basements and foundations from the inside, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the basement floor and walls Waterproofing of cellars and foundations Typical problems caused by missing or broken waterproofing Waterproofing of a monolithic foundation of a building under construction using a complex modifying additive in concrete Waterproofing of a monolithic foundation of a building under construction Waterproofing of the prefabricated foundation of a building under construction Internal waterproofing of the foundation of an operating building 1 Make a horizontal cut-off foundation waterproofing using one of the following waterproofing materials: a. LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing two-component ; b. SLAVYANKA® coating waterproofing ; c. SLAVYANKA® one-component liquid rubber . The choice of material depends on the design.

		Stage 2: Preparation of surface 1 Clean the surfaces of cement milk, lubric lubrication and other pollution. 2 Sew all internal joints and seams along the entire length to a depth of 30 mm and a width of 20 mm. Dust the surfaces of the received strobes.


3 Stage: Waterproofing Stroob 1 9080 Fill the strobes with mortar LAHTA® joint waterproofing . Seal and smooth the surface of the grout.

		Step 4: Exterior waterproofing 1 Apply one of the following materials to exterior surfaces: a. L AHTA® elastic waterproofing two-component ; b. SLAVYANKA® coating waterproofing ; c. SLAVYANKA® liquid rubber one-component or two-component . ; b. LAKHTA® coating waterproofing ; p. LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing two-component or LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing one-component * ; 2 Concrete walls: a. LAKHTA® coating waterproofing ; b. LAKHTA® plaster waterproofing ; p. LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing two-component or LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing one-component ; 3 Brick walls: a. LAKHTA® plaster waterproofing ; b. LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing two-component or LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing one-component** . The choice of material depends on the design. ) floors treated with LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing* must be protected from mechanical influences (cement-sand screed, tiles or any floor covering). ) it is not recommended to apply LAKHTA® penetrating waterproofing** on the FBS surface.

		Stage 6: Reverse references 3 days after the end of the moisture treatment of the surface in case of applying materials LAKHTA® . b. 1 day* after application of materials SLAVYANKA® . *) under normal conditions (ambient temperature +18 – +22°C, relative air humidity not more than 60%).

Walls of cellars and technical undergrounds. Universal handbook foreman. Modern construction in Russia from A to Z

Cellar and technical underground walls

The outer walls of basements and technical undergrounds (hereinafter referred to as basements) must be designed for horizontal soil pressure from the outside of the wall.

When calculating basement walls for horizontal soil pressure, the wall is considered to have lateral support (supported on top) if the floor beams rest on the top of the basement wall (including when fixing floor structures with anchor bolts).

If the basement wall has an opening longer than 1.2 m or several openings, the total length of which exceeds 25% of the wall length, and reinforcement along the contour of the openings is not provided, then the part of the basement wall located under the opening is considered not to have lateral support.

Provided that the width of the partitions is less than the width of the openings, the total length of such openings and partitions shall be counted as the length of one opening.

Basement walls are made of in-situ concrete, prefabricated concrete blocks or stone (brick) masonry.

Precast concrete blocks must be made of concrete grade B12.5 or higher. The minimum thicknesses of the walls of basements that perceive the horizontal pressure of the soil, depending on the height of the basement and the material of the walls, can be taken from Table. 4.2.

Table 4.2. Minimum basement wall thicknesses

In places where support platforms for floor beams are to be installed, the thickness of the basement wall in the upper section can be reduced to 90 mm. In this case, the height of the wall section with a reduced thickness should be no more than 350 mm.

In the case of cladding the outer walls of the house with brickwork, this cladding can be extended to the above-ground part of the basement wall. At the same time, the thickness of the above-ground part of these walls in the lined areas can be reduced to 90 mm.

Facing brickwork must be fastened to the basement wall with metal ties, spaced in increments of no more than 150 mm vertically and no more than 800 mm horizontally. The gap between the basement wall and the cladding must be filled with mortar.

The elevation of the outer walls of basements must be at least 150 mm higher than the planned ground level.

If the outer walls of the first floor are wood-clad or plastered over wooden battens, the distance from the bottom of the cladding (plaster) to the level of the plan must be at least 250 mm.

In the outer walls of basements made of monolithic concrete or masonry longer than 25 m, expansion joints should be provided, located at a distance of no more than 15 m from each other, as well as in places where the height of the house varies. the design of expansion joints should prevent the penetration of moisture into the basement.

This text is an introductory fragment.

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The reader who has read the contents of the previous chapters of this book does not need to prove how much attention should be paid to protecting against unauthorized receipt of information from

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Foundations, cellar walls, ground floors

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Waterproofing Basement Walls: 8 Dos and Don’ts

Everything You Need to Know

5 Steps to Effectively Waterproof Basement Walls

1. Remove All Standing Water and Verify That the Area is Completely Dry

2. Clean and Prepare the Area

Check for Mold or Efflorescence and Remove It

Remove Any Old Paint or Other Coatings

3. Plug Holes and Cracks

4. Reseal Windows, Doors and Window Wells with Caulk

5. Apply Waterproof Coating

Can DRYLOK® Extreme Masonry Waterproofer Be Used for Exterior Basement Sealing?

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Trust in DRYLOK® for All Masonry Care and Repair Needs

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