In wall trunking: Amazon.com: D-Line 1D5025O TV Trunking | Cable Management System | Perfect to Hide Wires & Tidy Cables in The Home or Office
Trunking in solid wall? – MyBuilder
I’m looking to wall mount a TV and media unit and wanting the cables to be concealed in trunking so it’s a nice clean crisp finish. The wall in question is a solid supporting wall(presumably breeze block) not plaster. Just wondering the logistics of doing this? I’ve read that cuts in solid walls can only be so deep before the integrity of the wall in compromised.
Just looking for advice on how best to do this.
Would the use of galvanized steel trunking act as support? Trunking is primarily for HDMI, coaxial and optial cables, potentially for power cables to the TV too.
I should point the wall in question will be getting sockets added + antenna/data point/satellite point moved to it via chasing too.
Many thanks.
4
4 Answers from MyBuilder Electricians
Best Answer
R1 Electrical Services
Stocksbridge • Member since 11 Jan 2019 •
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Regarding trunking it’s primarily used on the outside of the wall although you can if you wish put it into the wall. You can get conduit and capping for going into the wall. If you go 50mm into the wall then no protection is needed. Any less then you would need one of the above. The integrity of the wall would not be affected by channelling in for trunking.
When putting your cables in make sure you leave a gap between any power cables and data cables as you could get interference
2019-09-29T22:29:00+01:00
Answered 29th Sep 2019
Jon bateson electrical contractor
Cubbington • Member since 25 Jun 2018 •
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Chase 50 mm square trunking into wall 10mm deeper than finished surface and fit 45 mm twin box at each end.
Then fit twin brush plates to these and you Should have a neat reusable route each time you want to change cables. Looks very neat. No need to separate power flexes and signal cables. Plastic trunking is fine
2019-09-29T22:28:59+01:00
Answered 29th Sep 2019
Horace Cliff
Tredegar • Member since 28 Sep 2015 •
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Trunking of any sort is not classed as a support. The regs say you can make vertical cut into a wall by 30% of its thickness, so if its 100mm breeze block 30mm depth cut, usually there would be plaster on top so you’d have enough depth to hide trunking/cables.
It may be better/easier to use oval plastic conduit as its easier to hide (if using metal capping make sure it’s earthed), use one for data/signal cables another for power cable spaced around 50mm apart. If power cables are burried in wall at less than 50mm they must be RCD protected.
2019-10-06T18:50:02+01:00
Answered 6th Oct 2019
Arc Electrical
Wigton • Member since 28 Dec 2016 •
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The power cables must be in own trunking totally separate from ELV (extra low voltage – data – coax – hdmi etc.) Plastic trunking can be used, something like YT4 for ELV stuff, YT2 power.
From memory YT4 is 38 X 25, YT2 is 25 X 16 deep. If the 38mm trunking was put in at around 45mm, I wouldn’t have thought it would cause any structural problems, but this is best to be run past a builder first. On one job we used steel trunking as there was a lot of cables, but this then has to be suitably earthed.
2019-10-07T09:05:02+01:00
Answered 7th Oct 2019
What is the Difference between Conduit and Trunking?
There is more than one option to store and keep cables organized during an installation. The containment systems you will select will be influenced by a variety of factors, including the type of building and wiring system. Moreover, the budget and other practical considerations within the building in question will also play a huge role.
With several options to choose from, there is a great need to take the time and study different options.
Conduit and trunking are some of the most popular containment systems. Although most people assume both are similar, the reality is that they are different.
Keep on reading to discover the differences between conduit and trunking.
First Things First: What are Trunking and Conduit?
So what exactly are trunking and conduit? Read on to learn what trunking and conduit are.
Trunking
Trunking refers to an enclosure that protects cables. In most cases, it is rectangular or square in shape and has a lid that can be removed. Using trunking systems together with conduit systems offers more convenience and flexibility. While trunking is the framework of each installation, conduits cover the cables outside the trunking system all the way to the outlet boxes.
The good thing with trunking is that it allows the installation of an extension. You only need to drill a hole on the preferred side of the trunking and attach the new wiring through the conduit to the installed trunking system.
Various Types and Sizes of Trunking
Now, there are various types and sizes of trunking. Learning about the different options is essential. Below are popular trunking types:
Cable trunking. In this type of trucking system, the lid is kept in place by turnbuckles.
Bus-bar trunking. In this trunking type, copper or aluminum is used to protect the components.
Lighting trunking. This trunking type is installed with the opening facing downward. It is commonly used for luminaries.
Multi-compartment trunking. This type of trunking system allows for the separation of different services and voltages.
Trunking systems are also available in a variety of surfaces. Discover the most
- Plastic like PVC
- Stainless steel
- Silver enamel on zinc coating
- Grey enamel on zinc coating
- Hot dipped galvanized coating
Typical Trunking Sizes
Trunking is available in a range of sizes.
However, the following are the most common trunking sizes:
- 50mm x 50mm
- 75mm x 50mm
- 75mm x 75mm
- 100mm x 50mm
- 100mm x 75mm
- 100mm x 50mm
- 100mm x 100mm
- 150mm x 75mm
- 150mm x 100mm
- 150mm x 150mm
- 200mm x 100mm
- 225mm x 150mm
- 250mm x 150mm
- 300mm x 250mm
Conduit
Now that you know what trunking is, let us discover more about a conduit. Simply put, a conduit is a pipe, channel, or tube that covers insulated conductors. It protects the outer sheath of a cable from mechanical damage. The good thing with a conduit installation is that it can be rewired or changed at any time. Like trunking systems, there are various conduit types. Find out about different types of conduit below:
- Steel
- PVC
- Stainless steel
Steel Conduit System
This type of conduit system is manufactured according to the specifications provided by the British Standards Institute.
The most popular type, hot dip galvanized steel features a welded seam and heavy gauge, making it the best option for damp and external installations. Steel conduit is the go-to option for many users because it is affordable, reduced risks, easy to rewire, and can be used as Circuit Protective Conductor (CPC). However, steel conduit system is susceptible to corrosion, and can be quite costly.
The best way of bending steel conduit is using a bending machine. However, a bending machine is not suitable for bending steel conduits with more than 32mm diameter. Instead, portable ratchet benders are used.
PVC Conduit
PVC conduit is popular because it can withstand acids, alkalis, pests, fungi, bacteria, aggressive soils, and rodents. What is more, PVC conduit can be installed under sea, concrete, plaster, and lime without wearing out.
Hot bending is usually used to bend PVC with more than 25mm diameter. When hot bending PVC conduit, the right bending spring.
What are Trunking and Conduit Used for?
Trunking systems are used in a variety of applications, including industrial and commercial applications. For instance, lighting trucking is usually used for fluorescent fittings used to light a large room, while cable trunking is installed on the walls of buildings. Multi-compartments are necessary for cabling needs required in close stations. Conduit systems are then used to provide needed outlet points.
What is the Difference between Electrical Conduit and Trunking?
Electric conduit is a tube made of metal or plastic that protects and routes the electrical wiring of a structure or building. It helps to protect the electric wiring from moisture and mechanical impact. Another benefit of the electric conduit is it ensures safety since it will be easy to withdraw the conductors that are currently there are replace them with new ones. Electric conduit is also essential since it is reliable, durable.
On the other hand, the electrical trunking system consists of a rigid piece of PVC, copper or aluminum and is used where different electrical cables come together since it helps to carry a compound current. Electrical trunking system ensures safety from dust and humidity. It also prevents damage of the cable insulation and is long lasting. Examples of the trunking options include the small fiberglass cable and PVC coated.
When to Use Trunking or Conduit?
Conduit system is ideal for installations in external and damp environments. It protects the conductors from harmful substances, including moisture and chemicals. Moreover, it is the best wiring systems for buildings that will undergo changes in the future since it can be altered and removed easily. It can be submerged in water. Installation companies can also use metal conduit systems to minimize electromagnetic interference.
Trunking system is ideal for the distribution of high currents in buildings, equipment, and switching yards.
This installation type distributes current when multiple electrical cables are used.
Final Thoughts
When you need trunking and conduit systems for electricity or commucation system protection, be sure to check China LESSO.
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Concealing Cables For A Wall Mounted TV Installation | TV Cable Trunking
TV systems have become arguably more complex in recent years with their ability to connect auxiliary devices, usually involving additional cabling.
The mess of trailing cables this can lead to is one of the biggest frustrations, and with the evolution of the flat-screen TV, wall mounting has become a popular option, exacerbating the problem. Devices are continually moving towards wireless connectivity, but we will always have the problem of power cables. With the right products and some effort, we can efficiently create a seamless aesthetic.
Wall mounting your TV can save vast amounts of space and compliment your living space rather than intrude on it but how we conceal the cables will depend on the construction of the wall.
Stud Walls
Stud walls can make hiding cables simple, concealing them directly behind the plasterboard. This is not a process to be undertaken without the appropriate fixings, techniques and a little caution!
Once the TV itself is safely mounted, the simplest way to conceal the cables behind plasterboard is to create a hole behind the TV through which the wires can be fed into the wall using a specialist cable routing tool.
The cables can be fed out through another hole further down the wall where you want the cables to exit the wall and connect to the AV equipment or power source.
For a more professional finish, you could go a step further. Rather than open holes in the wall, you could install a plasterboard backbox at both points with a brushed faceplate. With a faceplate of this type, the bristles allow cable entry or exit points whilst maintaining a tidier and more professional finish.
Brick / Solid Walls
Solid walls and brickwork are a little more effort, but the end result will ultimately be worth it. You will need to chase out the brickwork to create a channel down the wall to house appropriate trucking or conduit, from the required entry to exit points. The trunking or conduit will allow you to route the cables with minimal damage to the wall. Similarly to the stud wall, you should mount a backbox at each point with a brushed faceplate.
Once this is completed, it is a matter of filling, skimming and painting the area of removed brickwork.
Shorten cables to the required length
Less cable means less to conceal. TV cables are often longer than required, and the cable plugs are usually easily replaced once you have the cable an appropriate length. Coaxial, cat5 and cat6 cables are designed to be cut to length and the plug re-terminated.
Make full use of velcro wraps or cable ties.
Cable ties are a great way to control excess cable where shortening them isn’t an option. Coil up the cable and secure with a cable tie to prevent the wires getting tangled, knotted or caught around anything. Cable ties are also useful to secure cables to things like furniture legs or the TV bracket. Velcro wraps are a more recent innovation that have many advantages; environmentally friendly, reusable, adjustable, easy to use and reuse.
Where possible, run cable outside.
This is not strictly a solution to conceal cable, but running cables outside where possible does negate the need to conceal a proportion of the cable. Trunking can be used outdoors without being too intrusive, or you can also use a protective cable guard explicitly designed for protecting cables on outside walls.
Utilise cupboards and wardrobes to run cables through discreetly.
Depending on the property, there are ways to be inventive with your install. Make full use of any existing spaces you can run cable through to keep it concealed with no additional install.
Cables can be run under floorboards, carpet or laminate.
Sometimes there might be a requirement to run a cable from one side of a room to another. This situation can be resolved using cable trunking, particularly if you have a tiled or solid floor, but there may be another way in other circumstances. Depending on the property it may be possible to run the cable under carpet, laminate or by lifting floorboards to drop the cable underneath using cable routing rods.
Using coving to hide cables.
If you are looking to install devices at ceiling height, such as speakers, coving can be a great way to conceal the cables. Where possible, positioning the cable and installing coving to hide them afterwards is the most straightforward install, but often the coving is existing. With a little patience, cable can be pulled through existing coving without too much of an issue.
Kitchen kickboards can hide cable effectively.
If you are running cable through a kitchen area, utilising the kickboards to run the wire behind is a convenient solution. On the whole, kickboards can simply be unclipped, run the cable behind and clip them back into place.
Make the most of wireless solutions!
Generally speaking, wired technology is more reliable and provides better performance. However, wireless technology has evolved significantly in recent years. Sometimes wireless is not an option due to the way radio waves travel.
Larger buildings and some specific construction materials do not allow the radio waves to travel freely.
CMW distributes a wide variety of trunking and cable management solutions. If you are unsure which type you should get and what you are looking for, you can get the help you need by contacting us. Speak to the team to get help with picking the right products for your requirements.
12 Ingenious Ways To Hide Wires & Tech In Your Home
If you’re ready to tame that tech around the house, then here’s a fantastic collection of lots of brilliant ways to hide wires, cables, and more.
You’ll be wire-less (or at least it will appear more like it) before you know it….
Let’s face it – wires and tech in the house really aren’t that attractive.
It rarely adds to the decor, creates a lot of visual clutter, and isn’t something we want to be looking at, right?
Wouldn’t it be better to find ways to hide wires that would disguise them more?
The majority of our homes haven’t been built to naturally hide wires (unless you’re fully automated, and if you are, that’s amazing!).
Add that to the fact that we now have more tech (and therefore more wires) than ever before – and you’ve got a recipe for potential disaster….
So, if you’re struggling to hide all those wires and tech stuff around your home and just want it to look a little better and blend in with the decor, then you’re in the right place!
I’ve put together all the clever ways I’ve found to hide those wires once and for all (including my favourite option for hiding tech that you can choose colours to add to the decor without any drilling needed) – and I hope one or two of them give you the inspiration you’ve been looking for in your own home.
So – let’s get started, shall we…
Table Of Contents
- Reasons Wires Become An Issue At Home
- 12 Brilliant Ideas For How To Hide Wires / Cords / Unsightly Tech In Every Room…
- #1 – Use Purpose Made Furniture
- #2 – Use a Basket
- #3 – Use ‘Made For Purpose’ Trunking
- #4 – Hide Behind Faux Books
- #5 – Hide In a ‘Fit For Purpose’ Cable Management Box
- #6 – Use Special Skirting Board To Hide Wires
- #7 – Add Extra Detail To Existing Skirting Board
- #8 – Use Cable Clips to Hide Unsightly Wires
- #9 – Create a Visual Illusion With A Fake Wall
- #10 – Use Hooks or Under Counter Baskets To Keep Wires Out Of The Way
- #11 – Use a decorative Box To Hide Charger Wires
- #12 – Use a Charging Station For Tech Cables
SIDE NOTE – Although all these ideas are definitely worth a try, please always make sure that there is plenty of air circulating around the wires/electrics to be safe rather than sorry. When dealing with electrics you need to allow heat to escape….
Reasons Wires Become An Issue At Home
- Not enough plug sockets
- Sockets in the wrong place
- Technical boxes have to be put in places that ruin the style of your home
- Wires end up on show, in a mass of spaghetti under cupboards, and generally tend to be quite unsightly.
In my own home we have this issue – ALL THE TIME!
It was built in the 1930’s when there was less need for so many sockets etc…, so when we refurbished it a few years ago I was lucky enough to be able to add in plenty of sockets. I probably went overboard, but I was on a mission!
QUICK TIP – Always have at least 1 set of sockets on each wall – to enable you to move furniture around wherever you want it. I go one step further and have 2 sets on each wall – that way you will always have a socket close by, and most of them will be hidden by furniture so it doesn’t look odd at all.
Although this works perfectly when you have the luxury to add sockets, it’s not the solution for most of us. In fact – there are still a few rooms in our house where we couldn’t change things easily, and so we have been forced to place furniture in specific places in each space as a result.
Not ideal.
And don’t even get me started on the mass of wifi / DVD / router boxes we’ve got all around the house….
All much needed, YES – and the tech is great – ABSOLUTELY – but the look?
Not so much…
So – here are some ways to change all that, and make those messes of wires and cords around the house a thing of the past.
12 Brilliant Ideas For How To Hide Wires / Cords / Unsightly Tech In Every Room…
Here are just a few of the modern day annoyances that are as a direct result of unsightly wires and tech, along with some inspiration I’ve found from across the web to fix the issues…
I hope that it helps you make any decisions you need to for your own home.
#1 – Use Purpose Made Furniture
We all have some sort of need for tech related to paperwork in the house.
Maybe you have a printer, scanner, shredder etc….
And they tend to be quite large and ugly in most rooms – unless you are lucky enough to have a separate home office (and even then, you might not want to feel like you are in a proper office when at home).
Using furniture that’s built to hide tech is one of the best ways I’ve seen to eliminate the need to see home office tech on a daily basis without having to feel like you’re living in an office.
There’s space for everything, but it looks more like a normal sideboard – a hidden office that’s totally functional!
Grey Painted Hideaway Computer Desk
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#2 – Use a Basket
I have a shredder, and hate the way it looks in my house. As a result I’ve ended up storing it in a cupboard most of the time and only bringing it out when I have a decent amount of paperwork to shred.
I’ve seen a few people online using a simple basket to store it in, so that it isn’t obvious at all. I love the idea of it always being plugged in a ready to use, but still out of sight… (but I wouldn’t recommend a lidded basket for safety reasons).
Large Cotton Rope Storage Basket With Handles, Versatile Organization
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#3 – Use ‘Made For Purpose’ Trunking
A lot of people now want that gorgeous look of putting the TV on the wall.
However, without a huge cost of cutting the wall, tunnelling the wires up and plastering over them, this could be the perfect streamlined solution…
Adding a simple section of trunking in the middle of the TV down towards the TV unit or whatever is below it, makes all the difference to what you focus on when watching TV (you don’t want those distracting wires!) – it can usually be painted to match the wall as well.
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Cable Trunking – Decorative Self Adhesive
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#4 – Hide Behind Faux Books
There are also so many ‘techy’ boxes around the house – whether it be a router (which has to go by the phone line), a TV box or other stuff, and it can all create the wrong focal point in the room if you’re not careful…
I LOVE LOVE LOVE the idea to hide everything behind what looks like a collection on books on a shelf.
So simple but so effective.
After all, it’s much nicer to have books on show than those black or silver boxes…
I’m sure you could make something similar – but here’s one you can purchase ready made and you can choose from a wide variety of books/colours etc… to match your decor (yes, it’s a little pricey for UK delivery, as it’s a US product, but still may be worth it for you) – click here to find out more.
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#5 – Hide In a ‘Fit For Purpose’ Cable Management Box
Another simple way to hide boxes that need to be out on show – such as a TV box, is to hide them in a box.
These ones can be hung on a wall which means they can be totally out of the way (or really close to the power source etc…) to avoid trailing wires as well.
Wireless Wifi Router Storage Box – Wall Mounted
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#6 – Use Special Skirting Board To Hide Wires
These are the fixes you need if you are finding it hard to have furniture exactly where you want it – and you need to allow for lamps etc… , or if you just need to hide those pesky wires out of sight.
If you’re in the building/renovating stage, you could fit special skirting board that actually has space left out in the back of it that can be used to trail wires through.
Really simple, really effective – and clean and neat in any room!
#7 – Add Extra Detail To Existing Skirting Board
Why not just add a little extra detail to it!
You can add trunking / cabling either on the wall on top of your existing skirting, or on the floor by the skirting – whatever works best for your home and space.
(You wouldn’t be able to trail it on the floor if you had carpet, for example).
#8 – Use Cable Clips to Hide Unsightly Wires
When you have lamps or electrical items on pieces of furniture, there are usually wires that are trailing to the plug socket – and these can be really unsightly (especially if the furniture has long legs and no real back to it).
As such, you could use cable clips, which simply stick onto the furniture, and have a slot that the wires can be pushed into.
You can trail the wires up the legs of the furniture, or over the back – and they will stay in place, out of the way.
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CABLE CLIP – 10 PACK MULTI PURPOSE CABLE TIDY CLIPS – SELF ADHESIVE (WHITE)
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#9 – Create a Visual Illusion With A Fake Wall
This is a project from the amazing blog Swoonworthy, and it’s one of those truly ingenious ways to hide wires that I wish I’d have thought of! If you have a little DIY skill then it’s definitely worth a try.
Simply adding a fake wall using cardboard painted the same as the wall means that you can hide a load of wires without any type of cabling or boxing in needed.
Obviously, this will only work when the wires are already in a hidden away area – as the visual illusion could be shattered at the wrong angle…
#10 – Use Hooks or Under Counter Baskets To Keep Wires Out Of The Way
Another quick trick for wires would be to attach a basket of some sort to the underside (or even the back) of the furniture and put the charger and wires into there instead of directly on the floor.
This is commonly used in offices, but I’m going to try this soon in my hallway as there are loads of wires hanging underneath the hall cupboard and even though it’s low, you can easily see all those annoying wires trailing over the floor…
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#11 – Use a decorative Box To Hide Charger Wires
When talking about taming those pesky wires – you have to talk about one of the most wire producing messes…
That’s the one caused by chargers for the collection of phones / iPads / Kindles etc… that the family seem to collect. Here are a few of my favourite ways to hide this cable clutter that would otherwise be left dangling…
I love this idea, as you can have anything that needs a wire, all in one place – neat and tidy. The connections can simply be pushed through the decorative holes so that’s all you’ll see.
Verve Jelly Cable Management Box – System to Cover and Hide & Power Strips & Cords
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#12 – Use a Charging Station For Tech Cables
This would make such a difference to a hallway table, or kitchen work surface, or desk – as you can have everything charging, each with their own wire – but it all neatly packed away.
And it makes an EVEN better difference to the amount of wires on show if all your gadgets to charge can be charged wirelessly! (Apple items are usually ones that can be, but you can shop around and see what others there are).
It’s also a great idea for keeping them all together at bedtime (so the kids don’t take their phones upstairs… hopefully!
3 IN 1 WIRELESS CHARGING STATION
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There you have it – loads of CLEVER ideas for ways to hide wires at home (and those annoying tech boxes too!)
If you start thinking a little outside the box (or in this case, inside a few boxes!) for inspiration, you may find that wires and tech around the home become less of a nuisance for you.
How To Hide TV Cables & Wires
Perhaps the biggest frustration with TV’s is the mess the connecting cables can create. There are honestly few things worse than mounting a TV on a wall just to leave a bundle of cables dangling down to the power socket and to your AV equipment.
I know I’m biased but depending how far you want to take it; a little effort can go a long way to tidying your TV wires. I know more and more things are moving wireless nowadays, but even so you will still need to worry about the TV power cable when mounting your TV on the wall.Fortunately, certain brands and models of TV are making this far easier for you like Samsung and their “One Connect”, which all your HDMI, optical, Ethernet,USB, optical and audio cables connect as well as traditional TV aerial cables and from there a single cable can be installed up to your TV, plus a power cable. Even still you will still have to worry about tidying your cables.
In this blog I’m going to share with you some techniques I use for creating a seamless appearance for our TV wall mounting installations and hopefully help you create the perfect result too.
Hiding TV Cable For Wall Mounted TV’s
I’m going to begin with wall mounted TV’s because this be done right to make your TV compliment your living space, when done properly TV’s can really look good and be real space saver.
There are a few techniques I use for tidying TV cables and this really does depend on the wall that you’re mounting your TV to.
Hiding TV Cables In Stud Walls
I love stud walls, well I don’t love stud walls. I hate them if I’m honest, I just love mounting TV’s onto stud walls as it can be so easy to hide TV cables behind the plasterboard and in the stud wall. If you’re not familiar a stud wall are sheets of plasterboard which are secured to either wood or metal studs. There is still a lot of nervousness around mounting TV’s on stud walls as many people believe that you will either not be able to get fixing or the TV will tear the wall down. I’m not saying that it’s not a task that should be taken without caution, you just need to make sure that you are using appropriate wall fixing techniques and wall fixings. Anyway, back to the cables.
When you lucky you can simply cut a whole behind your TV and one lower down where your AV equipment is or where you want to bring the cables back out again.
Feed something down like some electrical rods, or a specialist cable routing tool or even a trunking lid will do. Tape all your cables to this, like your power cables, HDMI’s, aerial and satellite cables and pull them all up. Install your TV on a bracket in front of this hole and voila we TV cables. I would go a little bit further than this however as wouldn’t be the most professional finish. Behind the TV I would usually cut a square hole big enough to install a plasterboard back box and the same lower down. This will also if you have small enough hands allow you to get your hands inside the wall if you are having trouble pulling these out again. You can then install a brushed face plate either side. These are face plates have bristles covering the cable entry and exit and creates a far neater appearance.
If you’re unlucky with your cable drop behind the plaster board you may meet a horizontal stud which you will need to get past. The only option here is to go through it.
Chances are you are going to need to cut a piece of the plasterboard out and cut a section of the stud away to allow the cables through. I recommend the following method, insert a rod down into the wall to find the distance to the horizontal stud. Measure this mark out on wall. Using a multi-tool cut a square out of the plasterboard over the top of the stud, you need to cut ever so slightly wider than the stud but not too far, a centremeter or half an inch is fine either side. Remove the cut section of plasterboard, be careful not to break as you will use this to fill the hole. With the multi-tool cut a section away from the stud but not the full width as we need to be able to screw the plasterboard back in position. Route the cables through. Place the cut piece of plasterboard over the hole and screw back in position, dry wall screws are best for this. You will also want to with a Stanley or utility knife chamfer the edges of the cut plasterboard slightly. This will allow the plasterboard to be easily filled with filler.
If you trying to hide cables in a stud wall horizontally, chances are you going to need to do this a few times as wooden studs are typically 16” apart centre to centre and the distance is actually marked on most tape measures, not a lot of people know that, but you do now. If you’re doing this with metal studs which are more difficult to cut away. It’s worth noting that most metal studs are built with holes inside specifically for the routing of cables, you just need to find these and route your cables through.
Another situation you may encounter is that the stud wall is filled with insulation. This is usually easily avoided by using a routing tool that has a natural bend to it keeping it close to the inside of the plasterboard when inside the wall. If you don’t have something similar, you will need to force the angle yourself. If the wall is packed very tightly with Celotex type insulation board you may need to cut a channel to get the cables inside. I will describe this technique in the next section.
For us to do this professionally this would be classed as our Silver+ TV wall mounting installation package.
Hiding TV Cables On Drylined & Dot & Dab Walls
Drylined and dot and dab walls are similar to stud walls except that the plasterboard is stuck up to brickwork or breeze block with blobs similar to cement. These would be the “dots” and “dabs”. This is now a very popular technique for new builds properties and refurbishments and it is considerably quicker than apply two or three coats of plaster like is required on solid walls. The plaster board is stuck up and then a finish skim coat is applied over the top, in the UK this is true at least. Now dot and dab walls can be very friendly when it comes to hiding TV cables behind them, but this really does depend on a few things. The gap behind the plasterboard, if you’re lucky this will be about an inch, but it could be only half a centre-metre. The distance you need to route the cables and where the blobs of adhesive are in relation to where you want to route the cables.
When routing cables behind dot and bad walls. Before I cut any holes away behind the TV I will spend a few minutes just knocking on the walls to help identify where the blobs of cement are. These will sound more solid whereas when you’re not knocking on a blob it will sound hollower. You are looking for a clear route between your TV and where your AV equipment is avoiding these blobs. Once you have identified these. You will want to cut a hole either end, I recommend using a metal back box usually of around 25mm in depth and cut around this. Hopefully there is a nice gap for you to route to your cables behind the drywall or get some electrical rods fed through. Chances are it’s not going to be big enough to get something like a SCART lead through,does anyone still use them? Anyway, but HDMI cables shouldn’t be a problem. I recommend purchasing some slim HDMI cables for this task, the type without EMI rings as these will usually make the cable to big the fit behind the plasterboard.
If you’re concerned about the performance of the HDMI cable and interference, you can actually purchase clip of EMI rings which can be clipped in position after the cable has been installed. Beside HDMI cables things like TV aerial, satellite,ethernet, phono’s and even some power cables. The cable terminations can be installed after the cable has been routed through meaning that the cables could fit through a smaller gap.
If your lucky that will be it, screw your back boxes in place. Maybe install a brush faceplate over the top to keep tidy and away you go. I recommend cutting the top and bottom of the metal back-boxes away to allow the cables though. This will create a sharp edge which itself could damage the cable when pulled through. You need to be especially careful with power cables.I recommend just with some electrical insulation tape covering over the cut edge of the metal back box to protect the cables.
If you’re not so lucky you may need to cut a section of plasterboard out around half way to help the cables through and then using a similar technique as described in the hiding TV cables on stud walls section,where the section of plasterboard cut out will be used to fill the hole afterwards.
Chances are you going to need to use a fair amount of filler however as you will securing the plasterboard section to the brickwork behind which will naturally recess this into the wall, unlike a stud wall where you fix this to the stud which will make the plasterboard section sit flush.
If the gap is just too small behind plasterboard to the brickwork,then you’re going to need to cut out a channel to get the cables inside of the wall as well as maybe chasing some of the brickwork behind. To do this I again recommending using a multi-tool, simply mark the lines between the cable entry and cable exit sockets and cut. You could also use a pad saw for this, but this takes a bit more elbow grease. If you are careful with the section of plasterboard you cut away, you may be able to re-use this to fill the channel you have created. Place the cables behind the plasterboard, pin them back to the wall and fill the hole. When doing this I personally like to chase a bit of the wall away and install a section of trunking or conduit inside to help cables to be fed through at a later date without the need to damage the wall in the process.
This really can help as you never know what you’re going to need in terms of cabling in the future. I will describe this process in more detail in the following section.
This also would be our Silver+ TV Wall Mounting package.
Hiding TV Cables In Solid Walls / Brickwork
Things are about to get dusty, real dusty! If you want to hide the TV cables that feed up to the TV you’re going to need to chase away the plaster and brickwork. This will involve filling over the hold, sanding and possibly painting, but the end result is well worth it. If you have any professional plasterers as friends you may want to tap them up to come and professionally skim the surface once you have completed the installation, but good results can also be achieved by things like One Time or One Strike Filler, it’s what I use. A lot of people really don’t like the idea of knocking holes in their walls, so you may want to use trunking instead to hide the TV cables.
To do this I recommend following the same process as described in the Hiding TV Cables In Drylined Walls section in regards to the cutting away on metal back-boxes, with the bottom cut away to allow cables to be routed and for a brush exit/ entry face-plate to be installed.
To make the chase you’re going to need at the very least need a hammer and a chisel, but this sounds like too much hard work for me. I personally use an SDS drill with a chisel or chasing attachment. This does all the hammering that you will need. You can of course use something like a wall chaser, I have one but to be honest as easy as this makes the job it rarely comes off the van because of the amount of dust that comes off them. Even some of the good ones with the Henry hoover attached. Which brings me to my next point you’re going to need a hoover and some dust sheets.Cover your furniture and open the windows. When doing my wall chasing for TV wall mounting installations I usually have an apprentice with me who can hold the hoover up as you chase, this really helps catching the dust.
I strongly recommend when doing this to take a bit of extra time and chase the wall a little bit deeper than would have been perhaps necessary,so you can install a trunking or conduit with the wall to allow cables to be routed through at a later date without damaging the wall.
Obviously the deeper of wider the conduit the better as this will make pulling cables through at a later date much easier than one with a tighter space. You will just want to check the depth of your wall if you are chasing between rooms as the last thing you will want to do is to knock a hole right through and create a peep hole!
I personally do it this way. Using the trunking that we be installed in the wall mark the wall slightly wider on both sides. Then using a drill bit mark wrap around with tape slightly deeper than that of the trunking or conduit itself. Along the lines marked on the wall, with your drill bit,drill holes to the depth as marked with the tape about 2cm or an inch apart.This will help you chasing the wall to the correct depth. I then pop in the wide chisel attachment into my drill and chase hole to hole over the holes that have been drilled, this will help create a straight edge. Now chase the brickwork and plaster away in the middle. Place your trunking or conduit in place to make sure that bit is going to fit ensuring that all of it will recess beneath the finished wall line.
If not chase away the bits of brick that are preventing it fitting in place. Once it does secure in place with screws and rawl/ wallplugs. Insert the cables and then fill over with filler or plaster. Then run the hoover around!
To do this for you, this would be our Gold TV Wall Mounting package.
Hiding TV Cables In Trunking
The methods described in the above methods are not for everyone. Some people don’t like the idea of the cables not being easily pulled out, some people don’t like the idea of cutting holes in walls and others just don’t like the idea of the dust! If this is, you then installing cables in PVC trunking will be your next best option. This can be painted over to match the wall if you don’t like the idea of it being a different colour. It’s not always the most popular choice and some people despise the stuff, but it does look significantly better than loose cables. When done neatly trunking can almost be invisible, like with the correct size and shaped trunking ran across a square skirting board.
There are also some decorative style trunking, like the D-Line range. These can in many different shapes and sizes but the most popular would be a half round trunking that runs up to a TV. There are also other types like their quadrant trunking which is like a quarter round style trunking that can be attached to the bottom of skirting boards and looks like beading or scotia’s used to tidy the edge of flooring where it meets the skirting board. This is perfect for hiding TV and AV cables like speaker cables which may need to run to all corners of your room for a surround sound system and you can even get a wood effect colour to match your laminate or oak flooring.
Tips For Hiding TV Cables
Beneath are some of the tricks of the trade that we use to hide TV cables on our installations like our TV wall mounting installations.
Shorten All Cables
Behind your TV can turn into a right mess if left to its own devices. I recommend where possible to shorten all cables that you only have as much cable as you need.
Less cable length means less cable to hide. This may mean buying shorter cables for things like HDMI and optical cables where the cable plugs can be easily replaced. For coaxial cables used for TV aerial and satellite connections and cat5 and cat6 cables used for Ethernet connections, these can be cut shorter and the cable plug re-terminated. You can also shorten many electrical type and power cables, I just recommend that you don’t do this yourself unless you know what you are doing.
To help you if need to shorten coaxial cables or terminate cat5 or Ethernet cables click the links below for a video demonstration by yours truly.
How To Fit A Coax Plug
How To Fit A F Plug
How To Fit A RJ45 Plug
We also have a wide selection of helpful videos in our DIY section and on our Youtube channel.
Become Friends With Cable Ties/ Zip Ties
I probably go through a pack of a hundred of these a week.Where you have excess cabling, I recommend coiling this up and keeping tidy with a couple of cable ties, or zip ties if you’re reading this in the USA.
Doing this will also stop the cable from getting tangled and knotted with other cables which may take a lifetime to untangle. As I regularly say, “anything a cable can get caught around it will”.
Cable ties can also be used to tie cables behind stuff. I use cable ties to tie around furniture legs, TV brackets and when installing cables outside behind things like rainwater drainpipes.
Run Cables Outside
Ok, so technically this isn’t hiding them so much but often cables look better installed outside than they do inside. This isn’t my preferred option but things like trunking could also be used to hide them outside.
Run Cables Through Other Rooms/ Cupboards/ Wardrobes
It really does depend on your property and the way the rooms lie., but often with a bit on inventiveness you can route cables behind and through cupboards and things like built in wardrobes.
Run Cables Under Floorboards
If you need to get a cable from one side of a room to another,routing floorboards may be the best way to hide wires.
If you live in an older type house and have something like carpets, you can usually lift this together with any underlay to reveal the floorboards. If you’re lucky the floorboards will be laid at a right angle to the way you wish to route the cables, this will usually mean that the beams to which the floorboards are attached will run the same way to which you want to run the cable. This will mean much less work as you can often just lift one or two boards and then insert cable some cable routing rods and fish them through and back out again. Once this is through you can simply just tape your cables to it and pull them through.
If the floor boards are running the same way to which you want to route the cables, then this will be somewhat more different as they will be beams and joists that you will need to get through. This will mean lifting more boards and having to drill holes or notch holes, so the cables can route through. For this you will either need a battery drill with wood bit attachment for drilling holes or some sort of chisel or multi-tool for notching.
Before you start lifting boards I recommend just spending 1 a minute or so seeing if there are any short boards that can be lifting which are within your cable route. These will be far easier to lift, and chances are the have been cut lifted before and are often just screwed down. If not, you will have to lift them with a crowbar or the claw end of a hammer or hammers. You may also find that you need to cut some boards to get them up. This should be done above joists so that both ends can be laid back into position. I recommend that when you have lofted a board that has been nailed down, to screw it back down instead. This will make it easier to get up at a later date and stop any creaking floorboards. How about that? You read a blog on how to hide TV cables and you get advice on creaking floorboards also! Donations can be made directly into my personal bank account. 😊
It’s possible that once you lift your carpet up that you do not have conventional type floorboards, like in new builds where tunnel and groove flooring is now most common to prevent any airflow.
To get this up you need to break the grooves that enter the tunnels in between boards. I personally hate doing this, but you have got to do what you have got to do.
Obviously, you may have neither option if you have something like a tiled floor or solid flooring. In which case I recommend that you try something else like trunking.
Hide Cables Behind Coving
I have done this once or twice.It’s far easier to feed cables in position and then just install coving to hide them, but if you’re patient cables can often be fished through afterwards. This can be used for ceiling mounted speakers. You many consider adopting a wireless sound system instead however.
Hide Cables Behind Kick-boards In Kitchen
When a cable needs to run through a kitchen, one of the simplest and most effective ways of doing this is just to remove the kickboards at the bottom of the kitchen cabinets, feed your cables through and then clip the boards back in place.
I have used this trick many times. It isn’t always possible like when the floor has been tiled afterwards preventing the kickboards to be pulled away. In which case you’re just going to have to try something else my friend.
Go Wireless
Wireless technology can come a long way in recent years, with things like wireless sound systems so as Sonos and WIFI giving faster speeds. TV systems have started to follow also like Sky Q which operates using a mesh system for it’s multi-room systems and going wireless may be the way to go. You also have things like Bluetooth can give a wireless connection between equipment, this is particularly useful for wall mounted soundbars and it removes the need to install a cable between the equipment and other technologies like screen mirroring allow things from your smart phone or tablet directly up to your TV wirelessly.
I must say that I operate on the philosophy that. “Wireless for things that move and wires for things that don’t”.
This means that in my opinion like many other AV professionals, things like TV’s and AV equipment a wire would deliver a far greater performance than wireless. In fact, because of the way radio waves travel through the air it’s not always possible to go wireless particularly in big buildings or when passing through metallic type substances such as metal and insulation board. I recently did a comparison video on speeds on my Xbox between a WIFI and wired connection. I recommend that you check it out when you’re done here.
This means at the re-wire stage of a project, perhaps in the middle of a renovation or refurbishment you should give some serious consideration on what TV and AV systems you will have in place. I always recommend installing a couple of coaxial cables and cat5 cables to every TV/AV position even if you have no immediate need for them as this will give you so much flexibility as to what can be done in the future and bring all the cables back to a central location for ease of maintenance etc.
I have had many strange looks in the past suggesting that this is unnecessary in this day and age and often accompanied with the sentence. “Isn’t it all just done over WIFI these days.” The answer is usually no. For instance, I recently completed some work at a property where I had suggested that they should install extra cables to future proof the system, for which a family member butted in and suggested this was unnecessary as they would be just getting Sky Q and no cables were necessary. Come the installation of the Sky Q system because of the length and size of the property t get the system to work Sky had to run data cables on the outside of the building, instead of being hidden away and I see this scenario so many times.
I hoped that you liked this blog,another whooper over 4300 words, this is becoming a bit of a habit now. As always if you have any questions please do LEAVE A COMMENT in the comments section below and I will get back to you in the soonest.
If you’re in the South East of the UK and want to discuss hiding your TV cables, please do contact us and we will be delighted to help you providing you’re in our coverage area.
What is Cable Trunking? | Localsearch
When many cables are run together in a single protective covering, it is called cable trunking.
Trunk cables can be used in any wiring system such as telephone, computer network, or video signal traffic to provide protection against interference due to cross-talk. Cable trunking allows multiple cables to take the same path instead of occupying every available space with individual conduits for each wire.
Trunk lines have been traditionally used by electric utilities for distributing alternating current powering large electrical equipment such as elevators, escalators, electric railways, and industrial machinery. In modern systems, high-bandwidth fibre optic communication uses the technology which replaces copper conductors with glass strands.
Cable trunking is typically made from steel or plastic, although some manufacturers also offer flexible semi-rigid tubing. These materials are typically selected for higher mechanical strength compared to standard PVC or another flexible plastic conduit.
Cable trunking is usually used in large buildings containing many communication lines, such as office buildings and skyscrapers, but may also be installed in residential homes for networking or distributing television signals throughout a property.
Why is cable trunking used?
Cable trunking is used to protect and run multiple cables through your building so that they can be easily accessed when necessary. You might want to use the cable trunking if you have a lot of electrical cables running around your house, office, industry, or warehouse, and you want them all concealed.
Cable trunks are sometimes referred to as wiring ducts, but this term includes other non-flexible tubing such as metallic or rigid plastic pipes. Cable trunking tends to be less expensive than wire conduit because it requires no support from wall studs, though installation costs for both may vary by the cost of a professional, such as an electrician, and the number of cables being installed.
Cable trunking can also be helpful if you need coaxial cable TV signals brought into every room without installing a cable tray or other support system.
Cable trunking is composed of either metal or plastic and cut to the lengths needed for a specific project. Flexible materials make it easy to pull cables through but may be more difficult to secure in place unless you use straps with cable trunks that are made from a flexible material.
What are the benefits of cable trunking?
There are many benefits accruing to trunking. Cable trunking enables the consolidation of many wires into one single container, the trunk. Having individual wires together in a single trunk will protect cables from damage caused by vermins or rodents.
Cable ducting makes the work neat, look organised, and tidy. Cable ducting protects wiring installed in external spaces or walls from accumulating dust.
Trunking increases safety, especially in walked areas.
Possible tripping hazards emanating from naked or exposed wires are eliminated. Electrical cables should never come into contact with water. Trunking further reduces such chances of cables being exposed to water.
The benefits of trunking at home or the workplace go beyond health and safety reasons. Holding cabling in trunks enables easy access during repair or maintenance.
Does cable trunking come in different sizes?
Cable trunking comes in different sizes, depending on the number of cables you need to run. Cable trunking is usually made from metal or plastic and cut to different lengths such as 5m, 10m, or 20m. The flexibility of plastic allows the manufacturing of mini trunking cables as small as W38 mm x D25mm, L2m You can also find maxi cable trunking manufactured in lengths of up to 100m where necessary. These longer trunk specifications are suitable for large-scale projects like big hospitals, large warehouses, and industrial applications.
How do I install cable trunking?
For tight spaces, surfaces, floors, or locations, flexible tubing might be the best choice for installation purposes.
It is easier to secure in place. Metal, semi-rigid tubing may require screws or other fasteners to hold the tubing within the wall cavity without moving around too much. Some manufacturers include pre-punched knockouts along each side for easy entry and exit points so that you don’t have to tape wires together to pass through.
What are the different types of cable trunking?
Cable ducting has now evolved into various forms and different options for materials. You can find plastic trunking, PVC type, and those made of galvanised steel. There are various types of tuning depending on the work being performed. Customers can choose from flexible tubing, semi-rigid tubing, metal conduit, or wiring ducts for different applications.
Flexible tubing is easy to install, but they are more expensive than other types of trunking because it requires no support from wall studs. Semi-rigid cables may need screws or other fasteners if they shift too much.
Metal conduits or wiring ducts will provide the most protection against interference due to cross-talk and may be more difficult to install due to their rigidity.
Wiring ducts must be installed directly within a wall cavity without coming in contact with any studs. Metal cable ducting is more durable than plastic trunking or PVC.
What’s the difference between trunking and conduit?
Trunking and conduit are very similar in that they both run a cable from one area to another. The main difference between trunking and conduit is the size of the tubes themselves. Trunking may be used for more lightweight mediums such as coaxial wires, while conduits can be used for heavier materials, such as an electrical wire.
How do I attach a connector to a cable?
Cable trunks come with different fittings, including ring-type fittings, RSC Type 2, etc. This refers to the two-piece construction with metal pieces attached to the frame of the enclosure and rubber grommets preventing water from leaking into wiring ducts or trunking.
The second type is called an “Insertion-Type Connection”. Slide the connector onto the cable and attach using a crimping tool to make this connection.
Are cable trunking kits available?
Cable trunking is sold as a kit to include all necessary equipment needed for your specific project. If you’re running multiple cables through your home, consider purchasing a cable trunking kit that includes multiple pieces to complete your project with ease.
Do I need a permit to install trunking?
You may need a permit depending on how much work needs to be done and what type of job you are doing. Cable trunks can help you save time and effort during installation so that you do not have to run individual cables throughout the house. As long as you use the proper fittings, colour coding and marking options are available to help make installation easier.
Are trunking systems fireproof?
Fireproof trunking is considered Type C rated enclosure which means they will not be able to protect against flames or very high levels of heat. If you are planning on running cables near lights or in an attic space where the temperature gets above 45 degrees Celsius regularly, consider installing a higher quality enclosure with fire-resistant insulation.
Electrical safety in the home is a top priority. Take a look at this guide from the New South Wales government for tips on staying safe around electricity.
How much do cable trunking kits cost?
Cable trunking can be purchased for as little as around $7 or up to about $30, depending on the brand, quality, and size needed for your project. Some cable trunking kits come with multiple pieces, while others are sold individually for smaller projects.
When should I use cable trunking?
Cable trunking is an easy way to run multiple cables through the same path inside the wall cavity without drilling holes in studs or ceilings. This can save time and money by reducing the cost of hiring a professional if you are planning on running multiple wires throughout your house at one time.
Can I install my own cable trunking system?
Cable trunks are designed with different locking mechanisms depending on the manufacturer, allowing them to be easily installed by anyone who knows how to work a screwdriver.
If you’re planning on pulling through large bundles of wire, it may be helpful to have an extra set of hands, or a professional such as an electrician, around for support when pushing or pulling wires into place.
Concealed door installation: complete installation and finishing instructions
Articles
Installation of hidden doors: complete instructions for installation and finishing
Invisible doors – the trend of the last five years, and the situation is not planned to change. A huge number of different designs, styles and possibilities have made flush-mounted canvases one of the most common products on the market. Obviously, the installation of such a door is not the most common process, so in the article we will analyze what the standard and additional equipment of invisible doors should be, how to prepare the opening, and also what are the options for finishing.
Standard and optional equipment
The equipment of hidden doors depends on the manufacturer, design model, additional features.
However, there is a certain set of mandatory items that are always included in the kit:
- aluminum box – a mandatory component of any model, dimensions and specifications must exactly match the declared documentation;
- door leaf – decorated in advance or without finishing, also depends on the preliminary order and agreements;
- lock, concealed hinges – required details, materials and dimensions according to technical specifications;
- mounting fittings – everything you need to install an invisible door;
- technical documentation, instructions for installation, subsequent operation and maintenance.
If the basic set is not enough and you want to add a few more “chips”, hidden thresholds will help with this – a system due to which the threshold literally falls out of the lower edge of the leaf when the door is closed, also a closer mechanism, a stopper, mounting grid and a concealed door handle. Additional facilities will increase the cost of not only the product, but also the subsequent installation, but this is the price of convenience.
Preparing an interior opening
Invisible doors are light enough objects, therefore they are suitable for installation in doorways of various types: plasterboard, gas block, brick or concrete. The difference is only in the complexity of the installation and some preparatory processes. The box made of a special aluminum alloy is incredibly light, so it will not cause problems in any of the initial data options.
Plasterboard
If the original wall of the doorway is single or double plasterboard, it is recommended to pre-install a reinforced profile of at least 3 mm, as well as additional rigidity in the form of a wooden beam measuring 50×40 mm in the post profile. Although the aluminum box is light enough, the preparation process will protect against any possible excesses.
Aerated concrete
For the correct safe installation of the hidden box, and subsequently the door leaf, additional reinforcing fastening is required in the wall opening made of aerated concrete.
As a fixed false box, plywood sheets with a minimum thickness of 20 mm are used.
Brick
Brick walls do not require additional rigidity for the subsequent installation of the box, however, the requirements remain standard – a strictly vertical position and the absence of serious narrowing or other differences. The box is fixed in a brick, it is enough to choose the optimal dimensions.
Hidden door installation step-by-step instructions
The advantage of installing invisible doors is that you can start the process with or without a door leaf already available, having only a prepared box on hand. Consider the standard version with a complete set. Mandatory preparatory parameters are the formed opening, the final level of the finished floor. Step-by-step instructions:
- Before integrating the trunking into the opening, special mounting plates are attached to it.
- By means of wooden wedges (not part of the mandatory equipment), the structure is fixed in the upper part, thus setting the level.
- The side on which the hinges will be located is aligned in the next step.
- We fix the structure with wooden wedges at the floor level, as well as relative to the hinges on the opposite side.
- We foam the voids, thereby fixing the box in the prepared position.
- When the foam is completely dry, we measure levels and planes, check if the door changes its position in any of the positions spontaneously.
- We perform the final foaming of voids. It is important to dose the foam correctly, because when it dries, it expands, which can lead to deformation of the elements. Then it is necessary to wait for complete drying – at least 12 hours.
- After the specified time, the wedges are removed or cut off at the level of the box, which is also allowed.
- Additional plates and mounting brackets are used to fully fix the box.
It is important to follow the instructions, and also check the fit of the box to the opening, if only because neglecting any of the steps can lead to play, and then cracking of the wall finish.
Features of mounting hinges, installing a lock and flush-mounted handles are all additional options that depend on the configuration of the model. It is important to understand that the installation of an invisible door ends before the finishing stage.
Finishing work
The first and obligatory stage of the subsequent finishing is sealing the seams. This can be done by plastering or already at the stage of final wall decoration. This stage will help to hide technical gaps, foam, additional plates. To ensure good adhesion of the aluminum box and the finishing material, “concrete contact” is applied to the surface of the first one. As a result of processing with a special building material, the once smooth surface of a metal structure will become rough, which will ensure reliable fixation.
Hidden door leafs are supplied as-is or already finished, depending on the order placed. To prepare a primed door for painting or decorative plaster, sandpaper removes the top protective layer of the primer.
All further actions of a decorative nature can be anything.
Klimaflex duct systems
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Flexible air duct Klimaflex SB
Outer diameter 51-75
Inner diameter 63-90
CommentSetting temperature: pipe manipulation – in the temperature range from -5oC to +40oC.
High density PE material, inner layer also contains antibacterial additives (ø63). The inner layer of ø75 and ø90 air ducts contain antibacterial and antifungal additives.
Operating temperature -20oC to +50oC
Bending radius63:0.26/75:0.29/90:0.33
ColourOuter layer blue or green, inner layer gray or white
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall Box Through 1x75mm/125mm
Pack Qty1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Flexible Pipe Fixings, 1 O-Ring DN 90
Material Galvanized Steel
Flow Speed (m/s) Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall Box Through 1x90mm/125mm
Pack Qty 1
Kit Includes Plug DN 125, Flexible Pipe Fixings, 1 O-Ring DN 90
Material Galvanized Steel
Flow Velocity (m/s) Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall box through 1x90mm/125mm
Qty per set1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Fixings for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material Zinc plated steel
/ Flow speed (m/s) Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
1x90mm/125mm through-ceiling/wall box
Pack qty.
1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Clamps for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material zinc plated steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall box through 2x75mm/125mm
Pack qty.0003
Material galvanized steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall box through 2x75mm/125mm
Pack qty. Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall box through 2x90mm/125mm
Qty 1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Fixings for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material galvanized steel
Flow speed (m/s) Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Ceiling/Wall box through 2×90 mm/125 mm
Qty 1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Fixings for flexible pipe, 1 o-ring DN 90
Material galvanized steel
/ Flow speed (m/s) Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Through-wall/ceiling box 3x75mm/125mm
Pack qty. 1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Clamps for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material zinc plated steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
3x90mm/125mm Ceiling/Wall Box Through
Pack Qty1
Kit includes DN 125 End Cap, Flexible Pipe Fixings, 1 o-ring DN 90
Material galvanized steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Junction box 6×90 mm/160 mm
Qty per set1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Fixings for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material galvanized steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume ch2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Junction box 10×75 mm/160 mm
Qty per set1
Kit includes Plug DN 125, Fixings for flexible pipe, 1 O-ring DN 90
Material galvanized steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume ch2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Junction box 10x75mm/160mm
Pack qty10
Material galvanized steel
Flow rate (m/s)/Volume m3/h2-3/32-48
Price on request!
Junction box 10×90 mm/200 mm
Pack qty. ch2-3/32-48
Price on request!
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The outer part of the system consists of a galvanized steel in-wall box and a front panel in metal or wood options, finished in RAL 9010.
Eurovent certification guarantees the reality of all declared characteristics.
In-wall models
|
VC |
|
VD |
|
|
|
|
VG Variant Upside Down |
|
VF |
Dimensions boxes and panels
|
SIZE |
308 |
316 |
320 |
628 |
634 |
840 |
847 |
1250 |
1260 |
1575 |
1885 |
|
|
Box dimensions |
||||||||||||
|
Width / W, mm |
|
860 |
860 |
860 |
1120 |
1120 |
1380 |
1380 |
1380 |
1380 |
1640 |
1900 |
|
Depth / P, mm |
|
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
228 |
|
Height / H, mm |
mod. |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
505 |
|
mod. VC |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
790 |
|
|
mod. |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
690 |
|
|
mod. VF |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
490 |
|
|
Front panel |
||||||||||||
|
A, mm |
|
880 |
880 |
880 |
1140 |
1140 |
1400 |
1400 |
1400 |
1400 |
1660 |
1920 |
|
B, mm |
mod. |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
525 |
|
mod. VC |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
810 |
|
|
mod. |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
710 |
|
|
mod. VF |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
|
Price list boxes and panels Prices in EUR
|
SIZE |
308 |
316 |
320 |
628 |
634 |
840 |
847 |
1250 |
1260 |
1575 |
1885 |
|
|
CCM – VG |
Metal box mod. |
89 |
89 |
89 |
100 |
100 |
111 |
111 |
111 |
111 |
122 |
141 |
|
CCM-VC |
Metal box mod. VC |
104 |
104 |
104 |
115 |
115 |
126 |
126 |
126 |
126 |
137 |
155 |
|
CCM-VD |
Metal box mod. |
96 |
96 |
96 |
107 |
107 |
118 |
118 |
118 |
118 |
130 |
148 |
|
CCM-VF |
Metal box mod. VF |
89 |
89 |
89 |
100 |
100 |
111 |
111 |
111 |
111 |
122 |
141 |
|
MPK-VG |
Before. |
107 |
107 |
107 |
126 |
126 |
144 |
144 |
144 |
144 |
163 |
196 |
|
WPK-VG |
Before. wooden panel. Maud. VG |
386 |
386 |
386 |
429 |
429 |
472 |
472 |
472 |
472 |
534 |
965 |
|
MPK – VC |
Before. |
130 |
130 |
130 |
148 |
148 |
167 |
167 |
167 |
167 |
185 |
218 |
|
WPK-VC |
Before. wooden panel. Maud. VC |
417 |
417 |
417 |
463 |
463 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
510 |
577 |
751 |
|
MPK-VD |
Before. |
118 |
118 |
118 |
137 |
137 |
155 |
155 |
155 |
155 |
174 |
207 |
|
WPK-VD |
Before. wooden panel. Maud. VD |
405 |
405 |
405 |
450 |
450 |
496 |
496 |
496 |
496 |
561 |
730 |
|
MPK-VF |
Before. |
107 |
107 |
107 |
126 |
126 |
144 |
144 |
144 |
144 |
163 |
196 |
|
WPK-VF |
Before. wooden panel. Maud. VF |
386 |
386 |
386 |
429 |
429 |
472 |
472 |
472 |
472 |
534 |
965 |
HMI Wing EC
Moscow
Moscow
Novosibirsk
Krasnodar
Kazan
Khabarovsk
Irkutsk
8 (800) 707-64-76
-34
(free call)
For the application and acquisition:
ooo@evro- port. ru
Email:
VOLCANO Volcano Takers Volcano Scheme of the Trading Fores
Wing Wing Wing Pro Canal Venti Ventus Ventus Ventis Ventis Ventis Ventis Venti Ventis venti PAYMENT
HMI controller HY WING EC
| Type | Panel control, controller |
| Measuring temperature range | -10 °C … +99 °C ; NTC10K |
| Device control | Using the mechanical keys of the membrane keyboard Device programming: Hold down the keys with the device turned off [M] and [+] within 5 seconds |
| Calendar functions | Programmable weekly calendar (5+1+1) |
| Communication | Modbus RTU protocol |
| Baud rate | 4800/9600/19200/38400 bps |
| Outlets | 1 analog output 0-10V; Imax = 20 mA 2 relay outputs (250 V AC, AC1 500 VA for 230 V AC) |
| Inputs | 1 dry contact digital input, Imax = 20 mA |
| Supply voltage | 230 VAC |
| Power input | 1. |
| Cable size | 0.14 mm2 … 1.5 mm2 |
| Display | LCD backlit graphic display (white letters, blue background) |
| Material | ABS plastic + polyester |
| Dimensions (W x H x D) | 92 mm x 134 mm x 21 mm |
| Assembly | in standard Ø60 mounting box on mounting bracket |
| Weight | 190 grams (with installation box ) |
| Operating conditions | temperature: 0 – 50 °C, Rel. humidity: 10 – 90%, non-condensing |
HMI-WING EC is a wall mounted controller designed to control all types of WING EC air curtains. It has an interface with the Modbus RTU communication protocol for easy integration with building automation systems (BMS). The controller has a very simple and intuitive operation thanks to a comfortable and practical keyboard with a touch screen and backlight. The controller is made of high quality electronic components. The controller is designed for continuous operation with a single-phase AC network and a voltage of 230V. Thanks to a thoughtful design, the controller is mounted in a very simple way: on a special mounting bracket in a Ø60 mm wall box. The mounting bracket makes it easy to install and remove the panel. Electrical cables are connected directly to the terminal block located on the back of the controller. The controller allows you to control three speeds of fans with EC motors, as well as adjust the power of a two-stage heater. Thanks to the timer function and the built-in thermostat with a temperature sensor, the controller allows you to program the air curtain operation modes for a week (working days / weekends, two heating periods per day).
Installing an external door open sensor allows you to select one of three operating modes:
• Door (Door) (default): Air curtain operation with a heater to maintain the required temperature, or operation without a heater. The air supply is activated only when the door is opened.
• Room (Room): Air curtain operation with a heater to maintain the desired temperature, or without a heater (this mode is activated manually). The air curtain operates independently of the door opening sensor.
• Door + room : Air curtain operation with heater to maintain the required temperature or without heater (curtain operation is activated depending on the state of the door sensor).
The HMI-WING EC controller optimizes the operation of the air curtain, ensuring its continuous and reliable operation, and the well-thought-out functions of the device allow significant energy savings.
WORKS WITH WING CURTAIN SERIES EC
WING W100 EC (length 1m)
Wing W150 EC (length 1.5m)
Wing W200 EC (length 2m)
Thermal power:
Air Consumption:
Device weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum height:
Heat exchanger:
Max. Noise level:
Electric motor power:
4-17 kW
1850 m3/h
21.5 kg
1 m
3.7 m
two-row
57 dB
0.2 kW 9000 0.2 kW0003
Heat output:
Air consumption:
Unit weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Heat exchanger:
Max. Noise level:
Electric motor power:
10-32 kW
3100 m3/h
29 kg
1.5m
3.7 m
Two-row
59 dB
0.3 kW
Power thermal heat :
Air consumption:
Unit weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Heat exchanger:
Max. Noise level:
Electric motor power:
17-47 kW
4400 m3/h
37.5 kg
2 m
3.7 m
Two-row
62 dB
0.45 kW
Read more
DETAILS
DETAILS
WING E100 EC (length 1m)
WING E150 EC (length 1.5m)
WING E200 EC (length 2m)
Heat output:
Air consumption:
Unit weight:
Max. door width:
Max. door height:
Max. Noise level:
Electric motor power:
2/6 or 4/6 kW
1850 m3/h
22 kg
1 m
3.7 m
max. 10,0003
58 dB
0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 kW
Thermal power:
Air consumption:
Unit weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Current consumption:
Max. Noise level:
Motor power:
4/12 or 8/12 kW
3150 m3/h
30.5 kg
1.5 m
3.7 m ,3
58 dB
0.3 kW
Thermal power:
Air consumption:
Device weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Current consumption:
Max. Noise level:
Motor power:
6/15 or 9/15 kW
4500 m3/h
39 kg
2 m
3.7 m
900 4
60dB
0.45 kW
DETAILS
DETAILS
DETAILS
WING C100 EC (length 1m)
0003
Wing C200 EC (length 2m)
Thermal power:
Air Consumption:
Device weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Noise level:
Power of the electric motor:
–
–
1950 m3/h
19 kg
1 m
4 m
62 dB
0. 2 kW
Heat capacity:
Air Consumption:
device weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Noise level:
Elector power:
–
3200 m3/h
25.5 kg
1.5 m
4 m
63 dB dB
0.3 kW
Heat output:
Air consumption:
Unit weight:
Maximum door width:
Maximum door height:
Noise level:
Motor power:
–
4600 m3/h
32.5 kg
2 m
4 m
63 dB
0.45 kW
more
Volcano spare parts
Volcano Wing selection program
Volcano wiring diagramsOl000
VR3 AC
VR-D Mini AC
VR-D AC
VR mini EC
VR1 EC
9000 VR2 EC
VR3 EC
VR-D Mini EC
VR-D EC
W100 AC
W150 AC
W200 AC
9000
50 AC
E200 AC
C100 AC
C150 AC
C200 AC
W100 EC
W150 EC
9000 9000 9000 9000 W200 EC
E100 EC
E150 E150 EC
E200 EC
C100 EC
C150 EC
C200 EC
9000 2 9000 PRO 9000 PRO 9000 PRO 000 AC 9000 AC 9000 AC 9000 AC 9000 PROS C200 AC
PRO W150 R1 AC
PRO W200 R1 AC
PRO W150 R2 AC
PRO W200 R2 AC
PRO C150 EC
Pro C200 EC
Pro W150 R1 EC
Pro W200 R1 EC
PRO W150 R2 EC
PRO W200 R2 EC
Euro Port
TIN 9000 Inn 9000 INN 9000 INN Checkpoint 772101001
Moscow region, Balashikha, st. Sovetskaya, 35
Novosibirsk, st. Military, 140k2
Krasnodar, p. Yuzhny, st. Water intake, 58
Kazan, st. Rodiny, 10
Khabarovsk, st. Suvorova, 73 lit. K
© 2017 – 2021 Volcano-Vent.ru – All rights reserved.
[Page 9/12] – User Manual: Extachcaum NEFF D76B21N1
at
Time
Work
Exvert
9000
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 and
located
should be
Care
On
sufficient
Take
Air
.
■
Samt
Wall
Corps
System
Take
/
Division
Air
9000
not
9000
guarantees
compliance with the
limit
.
for
Safe
Operation
Reduced
Pressure
Premises
,
,
where
9000 9000
was established
0003
Source
Flame
,
not
should
be
4
PA
(0.04
mbar 9000 mbar 9000 mbar 9000 MB ).
This is
Could
be
reached
,
If
required
0003
for
Burning
Air
will be
at
Uncross
openings
,
,
,
, for example,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
doors
windows
0002
wall
Box
Systems
Take
/
Division
Air
others
.
In
any
situation
contact
system
.
If
the hood
works
9Exclusively
in
circulation
Air
,
TO
Operation
without .
Dangerous
3150
!
Locked
Back
The expended
Gaza
is
poisoning
.
With
installation
system
ventilation
9002 with
003
Source
Flaps
,
Related
with
Exhaust
,
for
SUM 9000
Power 9000
must
be
provided
suitable
0002 safety switch
switch
.
Fire danger
! 3
Deposits
Fat
In
Fatigue
Filter
C,
flashed
.
Vo
Evasion
Clum
Heat
follow
Safe
9000
distance
.
observe
Personations
,
data
for
of your
.
at
simultaneous
operation
gas
and
Electric
burners
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000
large
specified
distance
.
Instrument
can
be
Established
only
on
one
Parties
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000
–
columns
or
walls
.
Distance
Details
inside
devices
have
Acute
edges
.
Use
protective gloves
.
Danger of injury
!
■
If
instrument
not
was
recorded
wall
,
.
All
units
fasteners
must
be
secure
installed
.
Danger of injury
!
■
Tool
heavy
.
For
his
movements
will require
2
3
Use
only
suitable
auxiliary
means
.
danger
Some
parts
inside
appliances
9000 3
have
0003
Acidly
Earlings
,
What
can
Samilify
Wire
.
Track
,
To
Tranding
Not
and
not
kinked
.
Danger
suffocation
!!
Packaging
Material
presents
Danger
for
children
.
Never
not
allow :
exhaust
Air
Not
uture
NI
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000
9000 9000
9000 9000
pipe
,
nor
in
shaft
,
employee
0003
for
ventilation
premises
,
In
is
9000,0002
.
■
If
exhaust
air
out
0002
unused
smoke
Pipe
,
It should be
Resolution
responsible
for
operation
and
cleaning
pipes
.
■
If
exhaust
Air
DISCULATIONS
Outical
,
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000
telescopic
block
in
Case
complaints
,
Classes
sites
pipelines
.
■
Optimal
Power
Devices
reached
for
account
9000 9000 9000
Direct
9000
002
Disfect
Pipes
,
having
according to
Opportunities
diameter
.
■
at
Available
Long
rough
Dischants
pipes
,
Big
quantities
knees
or
pipes
C
150 9000 9000
9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000) capacity
hoods
not
reached
and
fan noise
becomes
louder than
.
■
pipes
or
hoses
must
9
to be
made of
non-flammable
3
Page:
( 9 of 12)
navigation
one
2
3
four
5
6
7
eight
9
ten
eleven
12
Table of contents
- [en] Operating and installation manual
- î Table of contents[en] Operating and installation instructions
- Terms of use
- Produktinfo
- : Important Safety Instructions
- Read this manual carefully.
It will help you learn how to use the appliance correctly and safely. Keep your manual…
- Operational safety is only guaranteed if assembled correctly in accordance with the installation instructions. For impeccable fu…
- This appliance is intended for domestic use only. The appliance is not designed for outdoor use. Watch the instrument in…
- Children under 8 years of age, persons with limited physical, mental and mental capabilities, as well as persons who do not have sufficient knowledge …
- Children are not allowed to play with the appliance. Cleaning and maintenance of the appliance must not be carried out by children, only if they are…
- Keep children under 8 years of age away from the appliance and its mains lead.
- Unpack and inspect the instrument. Do not connect the device if it has been damaged during transport.
- This appliance is not intended for use with an external timer or remote control.
- Choking hazard!!
- The packaging material is dangerous for children.
Never let children play with packaging material.
- The packaging material is dangerous for children.
- Danger to life!
- Exhaust gases drawn back in can cause poisoning.
- Always ensure that there is sufficient air supply when the appliance and flame source with room air supply are operating on…
- Flame sources with room air supply (e.g. gas, oil, wood or charcoal heaters, flow through …
- During the operation of the hood, air is removed from the kitchen and nearby rooms and due to insufficient air in …
- ■ Therefore, always ensure that there is sufficient air flow.
- ■ The wall duct of the air supply/exhaust system itself does not guarantee compliance with the limit value.
- For safe operation, the pressure drop in the room where the flame source is installed must not exceed 4 Pa (0.04 mbar). It might…
- In any situation, seek the advice of a competent person responsible for the operation and cleaning of pipes, able to evaluate the valve .
..
- If the hood is operated exclusively in air circulation mode, then operation is possible without restrictions.
- Fire hazard!
- ■ Grease deposits in the grease filter may flare up.
- Clean the grease filter at least every 2 months.
- Never use the appliance without a grease filter.
- Fire hazard!
- ■ Grease deposits in the grease filter may flare up. Never work with an open flame near the appliance (e.g. flamb…
- Fire hazard!
- ■ Hot vegetable oil or fat is flammable. Do not leave hot oil or fat unattended. Never put out a fire in…
- Fire hazard!
- ■ A gas burner that is switched on produces a lot of heat without a pan on it. Above it is a ventilation unit…
- Fire hazard!
- ■ The simultaneous operation of several gas burners generates a lot of heat. Top-mounted ventilation unit…
- Risk of burns!
- Accessible parts of the appliance become very hot during operation.
Do not touch hot parts. Keep…
- Accessible parts of the appliance become very hot during operation.
- Risk of injury!
- ■ Some parts inside the appliance have sharp edges. Use protective gloves.
- Risk of injury!
- ■ Objects placed on the appliance may fall. Do not place objects on the device.
- Danger of electric shock!
- ■ A defective appliance can cause electric shock. Never turn on a defective appliance. Remove the mains plug from the socket…
- Danger of electric shock!
- ■ The device can become a source of danger if it is not repaired by a qualified person. Any repair work and replacement of wires and pipes must be carried out …
- Danger of electric shock!
- ■ Penetrating moisture can cause electric shock. Do not use a high pressure cleaner or steam cleaner…
- Causes of damage
- Attention!
- Read this manual carefully.
- Environmental Protection
- Environmentally friendly disposal
- Operating modes
- Extract air mode
- Note
- Air circulation mode
- Note
- Extract air mode
- Instrument control
- Note
- Control panel
- Fan setting
- Illumination
- Cleaning and maintenance
- : Risk of burns!
- : Danger of electric shock!
- : Danger of electric shock!
- : Risk of injury!
- Cleaning products
- Cleaning metal grease filters
- : Fire hazard!
- Instructions
- In the dishwasher:
- Note
- Manual:
- Note
- : Fire hazard!
- Removing the metal grease filter
- 1.
Deactivate the lock and fold down the metal grease filter.
- 2. Remove the metal grease filter from the holder.
- Instructions
- 3. Clean the metal grease filter.
- 1.
- Installing a metal grease filter
- 1. Install the metal grease filter.
- 2. Reinstall the metal grease filter upwards and close the latch.
- 1. Install the metal grease filter.
- Faults – what to do
- : Danger of electric shock!
- Fault table
- Lamp replacement
- : Danger of electric shock!
- Replacing halogen lamps
- Note
- 1. Carefully remove the bulb ring using a suitable tool.
- 2. Remove the bulb and replace it with a new one of the same type.
- 3. Replace the lamp cover.
- 4. Insert the mains plug or turn on the fuse again.
- Replacement of incandescent lamps
- 1. Lift the lamp cover slightly and slide it towards the outside of the instrument.
- 2. Unscrew the bulb and replace with a new one of the same type.
- 3. Replace the lamp cover.
- 4. Insert the mains plug or turn on the fuse again.
- 1. Lift the lamp cover slightly and slide it towards the outside of the instrument.
- Service
- Air circulation accessories
- Terms of use
- Assembly instructions
- Assembly instructions
- : Important Safety Instructions
- Read this manual carefully. It will help you learn how to use the appliance correctly and safely. Keep your manual…
- Operational safety is only guaranteed if assembled correctly in accordance with the installation instructions. For impeccable fu…
- The width of the hood must be at least the width of the cooker.
- When installing, be sure to comply with the relevant valid building codes and regulations of the local electric companies…
- Danger to life!
- Exhaust gases drawn back in can cause poisoning.
- Always ensure that there is sufficient air supply if the appliance and flame source with room air supply are operating on…
- Flame sources with room air supply (e.g. gas, oil, wood or charcoal heaters, flow through …
- During the operation of the hood, air is removed from the kitchen and nearby rooms and due to insufficient air in …
- ■ Always ensure that there is sufficient air flow.
- ■ The wall duct of the air supply/exhaust system itself does not guarantee compliance with the limit value.
- For safe operation, the pressure drop in the room where the flame source is installed must not exceed 4 Pa (0.04 mbar). It might…
- In any situation, seek the advice of a competent person responsible for the operation and cleaning of pipes, able to evaluate the valve …
- If the hood is operated exclusively in air circulation mode, then operation is possible without restrictions.
- Exhaust gases drawn back in can cause poisoning.
- Danger to life!
- Exhaust gases drawn back in can cause poisoning.
When installing a ventilation system with a flame source associated with…
- Exhaust gases drawn back in can cause poisoning.
- Fire hazard!
- Grease deposits in the grease filter may flare up. To avoid heat build-up, the specified safety distance must be observed…
- The appliance can only be installed on one side directly next to a column cabinet or wall. Distance from wall or column cabinet must be …
- Risk of injury!
- ■ Some parts inside the appliance have sharp edges. Use protective gloves.
- Risk of injury!
- ■ If the appliance is not fixed to the wall properly, it may fall. All attachment points must be securely installed.
- Risk of injury!
- ■ The appliance is heavy. It takes 2 people to move it. Use only suitable aids.
- Danger of electric shock!
- Some parts inside the appliance have sharp edges that can damage the connection cable. Make sure that the connecting wire.
..
- Some parts inside the appliance have sharp edges that can damage the connection cable. Make sure that the connecting wire.
- Choking hazard!!
- The packaging material is dangerous for children. Never let children play with packaging material.
- General instructions
- Extract air mode
- Note
- Air outlet pipe
- Note
- Wall check
- Electrical connection
- : Danger of electric shock!
- Extract air mode
- Installation
- Preparation for installation
- Attention!
- 1. Draw a vertical center line on the wall from the top panel to the bottom edge of the hood.
- 2. Mark the positions of the screws and outline the installation area.
- 3. Drill holes (Ø 8 mm, depth 80 mm) and insert the dowel flush with the wall. ¨
- 4. Install the bracket for the chimney casing and screw in the screw. ©
- 5. Screw in the 2 fastening screws with washers by approx. 5 mm. ª
- Installation
- 1.
Hang and level the instrument. ¨
- 2. Mark the hole for the set screw. ©
- 3. Remove the instrument again. ª
- 1.
- Final instrument installation
- 1. Drill a hole for a set screw (Ø 8 mm, depth 80 mm) and insert the dowel flush with the wall. ¨
- 2. First, remove the protective film from the back of the instrument, and after installing it, remove the film completely.
- 3. Hang up the appliance. ©
- 4. Install the set screw – with washer – and tighten all screws tightly. ª
- Connecting the instrument to the mains
- Exhaust pipe connection
- Note
- 1. Attach the exhaust pipe directly to the air outlet.
- 2. Make the connection for the exhaust port.
- 3. Seal the connections appropriately.
- Note
- Electrical connection
- 1. Plug the power cord into a socket with a grounding contact.
- 2. If a fixed connection is required, follow the instructions in chapter Electrical connection.
- Exhaust pipe connection
- Mounting the chimney casing
- : Risk of injury!
- 1. Separate the sections of the chimney casing.
- 2. Remove the protective film from both sections of the chimney casing.
- 3. Insert one section of the chimney casing into the other.
- Instructions
- 4. Fit the chimney casing sections to the appliance.
- 5. Slide the inner cladding section up and fit left and right onto the mounting bracket.
- 6. Lock the chimney casing downwards. ©
- 7. Screw the chimney casing on the sides to the mounting bracket with two screws. ª
- 2. Remove the protective film from both sections of the chimney casing.
- Attention!
- Preparation for installation
Programmable radio frequency thermostat CMT727D1016
The CMT727D1016 thermostat is designed to provide automatic temperature control of heating and cooling systems in apartments and cottages according to a given schedule. It can be used as part of a system in conjunction with combi boilers, diesel and gas boilers, circulation pumps, thermal actuators, zone valves and electric heaters (<10A). The CMT727D1016 radio frequency controller kit consists of a room CMT727D1016 and a relay R6660D (HC60NG) module. The room unit does not need to be connected. The relay module is connected to a controlled device (for example, a boiler) and installed in a place that ensures stable reception of the radio signal from the room module. CMT727D1016 operate at 868 MHz. Wide CM727 LCD display, button layout based on the proven philosophy of CMT727D1016 thermostats and new ‘OK’ button for easier operation. This chronothermostat is ideal for users who want accurate and reliable temperature control with simple, intuitive settings.
Features of CMT727D1016 programmable RF thermostat
– CM727 can be installed in any suitable place in the room without disturbing the created decor, since no wires are required to connect the room unit to the boiler
– Elegant miniature design makes it ideal for installation in any home .
– 7-day heating program.
– Up to 4 independent adjustable time and temperature levels per day allow you to set a schedule that best suits your lifestyle.
– LCD backlight for clearer reading in darkened rooms.
– Reliable 868 MHz radio with 1% duty cycle limitation to minimize communication disruptions
– Each room unit can be assigned to control multiple relay modules (e.g. multiple electric heaters)
– Vacation button provides energy saving mode by lowering the temperature for a holiday period of 1 to 99 days, returning to normal operation (AUTOMATIC or MANUAL) on the day of return.
– The user program is stored in non-volatile memory.
– OFF mode has a built-in frost protection function set to a minimum temperature of 5C (can be changed at the setting), which means that the heating pipes will not freeze during winter frosts
– 24…230V with max. 10A resistive, 3A inductive load on SPDT contact ensure compatibility with most heaters.
– When used with the floor stand, the room unit can be installed anywhere in the room with stable radio communication.
– Mounting HC60NG on the wall or in a wall box.
– Minimum battery life 2 years, low battery warning indicator.
– Preset heating template program.
– Automatic Daylight Saving Time
– Regular maintenance warning.
– Editing mode allows setting additional user functions:
* Time display format AM-PM or 24h.
* Reset user settings to factory defaults.
* On/Off Daylight Saving Time
– Mounting mode allows for fine technical adjustment to the end user’s specific application:
* Load On/Off optimization function.
* Pump exercise.
* Adjustable upper/lower setpoint limit.
* Temperature offset (correction).
* * Minimum turn-on time.
* Cycle times.
* Adjustable proportional band.
*Safe regime in case of communication loss
Technical characteristics of the programmable radio frequency thermostat CMT727D1016
Electric parameters of thermostat CMT727D1016
9000 – 2 batteries 1. 5 in IEC LR (AA) batteries – Minimum 2 years
– replacement of batteries – the program is preserved in energy -dependent memory (EEPROM)
– the voltage of the receiver power – 230 V ~ +10% – 15%, 50 Hz
– SPDT type Outless
– output signal – 24- 230 V~, 10 A resistive, 3 A inductive load (0.6 p.f.) Connection (sink) Relay terminals for wires up to max. 2.5 mm2
-access to the subscription -from the back toron (in the wall box), on the right or from the bottom of
Radio connection of thermostat CMT727D1016
– Operating range -ISM (868.0-868.6) MHz, 1% working cycles
-Ditalry. communication – 30 m in a residential building
– Radio communication technology – Short intense transmissions to minimize airtime
– Jamming Immunity – Class 2 Receiver (ETSI EN300 220-1 Version 1.3.1)
– Radio Communication Establishment Method – Factory preconfigured communication with the room unit.