Double layer brick wall: Home Building: Is Double Brick Better?
Home Building: Is Double Brick Better?
Double brick, also known as solid brick, is a traditional style for houses that has continued to remain popular as a preferred choice for many homeowners around the world. Because of its common use, many people wonder what the advantages of this style are. Also, if it’s really the best option for a home structure.
Double brick homes have several great advantages that make them a better choice for a house structure. They are stronger, more weather resistant and have good thermal transmission. Double brick is a more stable structure than other materials. The brick is useful for sound insulation within the home.
Why is a double brick house good?
More and more homeowners are picking brick veneer and other structural materials over double brick. But what are the advantages of double brick homes that you should be considering?
When you look at the positives of these homes, it becomes clearer that double brick style is possibly a better option. There are reasons the use of double brick has stood the test of time.
Here are the main benefits offered by a double brick home:
Double brick is good insulation
With a double brick design, there is a small gap between the two layers of brick that make up the home’s foundation and structure. This space functions as a great way to properly insulate the home and slow the process of thermal transition. Because of this, the temperature inside the home will naturally be at a comfortable level without much help from your thermostat.
During summer, when it’s hot outside, the walls absorb the heat and allow less of it to make it inside your home. And during winter, a similar effect occurs with warm air staying inside while cold air is absorbed by the walls and buffer space. This natural insulation will aid in reducing your monthly bill and saving on energy in the home. Is a double brick house a better insulator than a single brick house with modern insulation? No, not really.
Double brick wall strength
When the double brick method is used, the house structure is reinforced by the two layers of strong brick. This brick can stand its ground against the harshest conditions which is beneficial in areas with intense weather. It protects your house against natural disasters such as earthquakes and violent storms.
The sturdy materials also stand up well against high temperatures, reducing the threat of a devastating fire. The durability makes sure your home is as protected and strong as possible, increasing the lifespan of the house.
It is easy to cut the bricks, especially with a multi-purpose diamond saw blade, to fit the layout of your desired home! This means you can get durability with the look and space that you hope for.
The main interior benefits of a double brick house
Double brick protects the house interior structure and layout. Many other homes, such as those that use brick veneer, have an interior structure that is made up of steel or wood framing.
These frames are not as strong as brick which can lead to problems like wall-bending. This is because these structures don’t have the same ability to support heavy fixtures, but double brick does.
Also, homes made from wood frames have an added risk of pest infestations, like termites, which can eat away at the wood. This is a concern for the stability of the house structure, as well as the house itself. But brick is resistant to these conditions and therefore double brick homeowners don’t have these concerns.
Double brick houses are also better for sound insulation. Brick has a natural acoustic advantage over other materials. This means that it’s much more effective at keeping sounds in the house while keeping those outside the house out. Not only can it insulate sound between the inside and outside of the home, but it can also have this same effect between the different rooms in the house. This is because the walls are thicker, boosting the acoustic advantage. So, you can watch something in one room and not be interrupted by your kid’s dance session in the other!
Are double brick houses cold?
One concern that many people have is that double brick houses are cold.
This stems from the belief that double brick homes have poor insulation that is not able to protect those inside from outside weather conditions. But, as we mentioned earlier, double brick homes do a great job of reducing this issue.
The space between the two layers of brick regulates temperature well. They can control how much hot or cold air is transferred from the interior to the exterior and vice versa.
Double brick house problems
While there are a number of fantastic advantages that a double brick home has, there are also some noticeable downsides. These are potential reasons why some choose to go with alternatives to double brick. So, what are the downsides to double brick houses?
Double brick takes longer to build
Because of the more intricate structure of a double brick home, it can take much longer to complete the construction process. A double brick home usually takes over six months to finish while other homes made from materials like timber can be finished much earlier.
This can cause problems for homeowners who have financial stress due to the extended time that they have to wait before moving in.
Double brick takes up more floor space
Double brick homes can take up more space. This could mean that homeowners won’t have the space needed for the big house they want. The wide walls form double bricking take up a significant amount of space on the land.
Double brick is more expensive than brick veneer
The construction of a double brick home requires things such as large foundations, reinforced steel, and a lot of concrete. This can lead to the total cost of the construction project quickly adding up and being higher than that of alternative structures. But, if you’re looking for a long-lasting home that you will get your money’s worth from, why not make the investment?
Double Brick vs Brick Veneer
When deciding whether a brick veneer better than double bricks for your situation it is important to actually know how double brick is different to brick veneer.
Double brick houses — also commonly referred to as solid brick or masonry houses — are generally built in one of two ways. Either from two layers of brick (as the name suggests) or from a layer of concrete that has an adjacent bricklayer on the exterior. This structural design can most commonly be seen in older brick homes, especially those that were constructed in the mid-20th century.
Double brick is different from brick veneer — the more modern option for brick housing — because it serves as a support for the structure of the home. If the brick were to be removed, it would have a drastic effect on the house’s foundational build as double brick houses do not have frames. Brick veneer, on the other hand, is brick only in terms of its aesthetics. The structure of these homes is actually supported by steel or wooden framing rather than the brick itself. So when deciding whether double bricks are better, you need to weigh up the cost vs the benefit in your particular situation.
Did you know that many wonder whether they should choose between brick veneer and cladding for their home exterior? Also, Bricklayers are a necessity for building the structure and exterior of your home, but does Ireland have a bricklayer shortage? Check out our latest articles in our Resources section.
If you are more of a DIYer, whilst you’re planning the outside features for your home, have you considered a fire pit? We have a guide on what bricks can be used for a fire pit.
This article was brought to you by Paragon Tools who has quality bricklaying and masonry tools in Ireland, ready for your building needs!
Solid Brick vs Brick Veneer
Solid Brick vs Brick Veneer
There are two ways to build a brick building: solid masonry and brick veneer. Is one better than the other? If so, why?
Solid Masonry
Solid masonry is the good old-fashioned brick construction that was quite common up until the mid-1900s. This is also known as ‘double brick,’ ‘solid brick,’ or ‘brick and block’ construction.
This form of masonry construction uses several layers (wythes) of brick with header bricks to hold them together. Some solid masonry walls built before 1900 were over 20” thick! Because the inner wythe can’t be seen from the outside it was commonly substituted with concrete or cinder block. Sometimes metal ties were incorporated into solid masonry walls. Unfortunately, older solid walls with these ties didn’t use hot-dip or stainless steel ties so most of those original ties have rusted away.
Solid masonry was undeniably a solid way to build. With an 8 inch or greater wall thickness, they were
able to support a wide variety of different roof structures. Carpenters often worked together to build the floor joists into the walls at the same time the brick was going up.
This figure below shows some of the common types of solid masonry walls.
Brick Veneer (Cavity Wall)
The biggest difference between brick veneer and solid brick is the main building support.
Solid masonry is the structural support of the building. With brick veneer, the structural support comes from the concrete, steel, or wood that makes up the backup wall, and the brick is on the exterior for aesthetic purposes. The brick veneer is only one wythe, as opposed to a solid masonry building which would consist of several wythes. There is an open cavity between the brick and the backup wall which allows for the addition of insulation and mortar collection material. Brick veneer walls must be designed with proper flashing and weep devices that allow water to exit the cavity to the exterior of the building. Cavity walls can be found in ancient construction and were brought back into use in Great Britain in the late 1800s but did not really gain popularity until the mid-1900s.
Differences between Solid Masonry and Brick Veneer Masonry
Energy Efficiency: A substantial difference between brick veneer and solid brick is the level of thermal transfer.
Brick, by its inherent thermal properties, is not an effective insulator. With veneer cavity walls, there is room between the exterior veneer and the backup wall to add separate insulation material. Brick veneer walls are more energy efficient.
Water Drainage: Brick is not a waterproof material. Both types of masonry walls rely on the bond between mortar and masonry units to limit water penetration. Solid masonry walls rely on their large mass to absorb water that enters from the exterior. Older solid masonry wall buildings were not air-conditioned and the interior finish often used cement plaster which is not susceptible to water damage like gypsum which is used today. The lack of insulation kept the solid masonry wall warm from the interior reducing temperature fluctuations. Maintenance on older solid masonry walls is critical (tuckpointing when necessary) Cavity Walls rely on weep systems to remove the water from behind the bricks to the exterior.
Structural: Solid masonry walls are structural walls.
Brick veneer walls are attached to the structural backup walls and are not structural.
Costs: Solid masonry Walls are much more expensive to make than brick veneer Cavity Walls.
Brick Veneer Backup Walls
Most residential homes are built with wood framing, while larger buildings are built with steel framing, concrete or CMU backups. Different backup materials require different masonry veneer anchors to attach the outside brick to the interior support material.
For example, corrugated sheet metal anchors can only be used with wood backups with 1 inch of airspace in between the materials. Any larger space will require sheet metal anchors. Adjustable anchors, on the other hand, can be effective in wood, steel, masonry, or concrete backups. Concrete and Steel Stud backups must use adjustable anchors due to the potential for deflection issues.
Restoration of Solid Masonry Walls
If solid masonry walls are not properly maintained moisture will get behind the bricks and they will begin to pop out and fall off.
In many cases, Spiral Remedial Ties act like a screw and can literally screw the wall back into place. In some cases, the exterior wythe is removed and attached with small stainless steel corrugated veneer anchors about 2” long expansion anchored into the brick behind. In other cases, a brick veneer is added to the exterior of the existing solid masonry wall by adding flashing and insulation to the exterior solid masonry, adding airspace and building a new brick veneer with proper moisture weeps and mortar drop materials.
Not every brick building is made equally. Building with the highest quality of masonry products will ensure longevity in every project. Heckmann Building Products has the right anchors and masonry accessories for every project.
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Double-leaf masonry cavity wall as a subsurface in building greening
Double-Leaf Masonry – What is it?
The external wall –or leaf– of double leaf masonry construction protects against sun, wind and rain, and basically only supports itself.
The inner ‘leaf’ is the load-bearing wall. The outer wall acts solely as a protective layer against prolonged weathering and the two are generally connected with metal wall ties, rawl plug anchors, or stainless steel rods. Together with the ‘core thermal insulation,’ they are also called “sandwhich facades.” The cavity is filled with insulation; often there is still a layer of air (4-6cm) between the insulation and the outer leaf, in which case there are typical joint slits or small openings in the outer wall for ventilation and drainage if condensation occurs inside.
Structural Problems with Double-Leaf Cavity Walls
In contrast to conventional domestic dwellings, in which all walls are connected at the corners, these walls are usually separated at the corners and are recognisable by their long, vertical, expansion joints. Each wall stands separately, so to speak, is less stiff and can ‘move’ in the event of expansion. It also means, however, that these walls are more sensitive to weighty, loaded trellises.
Depending on type, design, and construction, the load-bearing capacity of double-partition masonry can vary considerably. If an outer ‘leaf’ wall already shows cracks at the joints, window corners, or is damaged in any way, these should first be repaired before attempting to green the facade (install architectural cables for a trellis). To prevent cracking, avoid installing a mount in the first 3-4 rows of bricks and at the corners (as described under wall greening). Even at 25-40 cm from the corners, expansion pressure in the wall should be avoided– by using chemical mortar instead of expansion plugs, for example.
Stipulations for mounting into double-leaf masonry
Before attaching your FassadenGrün trellis elements, please check to see if there are any guidelines or regulations for mounting on your building that must be observed. These guidelines can be found in the documents relating to the construction of the building, or you can ask the construction company directly.
Because the installation of trellis elements is often not explicitly mentioned, local regulations apply to and are binding for similar objects. Regard our light trellises and their attachment as equivalent to, say- the assembly of letterboxes or outdoor lamps, our easy and medium kits equivalent to the installation of panels or satellite bowls (or other projecting elements, like shop signs), and our heavy and massive construction kits analogous to awnings/sunblinds. As a general rule, mounting in both the outer and inner wall is prohibited, since both partitions should be movable independently of each other. Any pressure as a result of tightened bolts/nuts of the anchoring mount is to be avoided for fixtures in the inner wall, because that pushes the outer shell against the inside wall (jamming) and can lead to cracks in the masonry.
Essentially, fixtures to attach your trellis system can only be mounted in the outer ‘leaf’ and all arising loads must be absorbed and carried by this wall.
The connecting (long) anchor (between the two walls where the air cavity is can be a support to transfer loads to the inner wall. However, they can only absorb tensile forces and not compressive forces.
Which trellis elements are compatible?
Our Light Kits and corresponding ‘light’ trellis fittings are suitable for every type of double-leaf masonry (cavity wall). The same is true of our Easy Kits, but the corresponding eyelet screw must be deeply secured such that the distance between the wall and wire rope of the trellis remains restricted to 2-3 cm and the cable grips (clamps) unable to be excessively tightened.
Within our Medium Kit range, the Eco version is a good fit that can also be used without restriction; with the Classic and Premium versions, the cables must not be overstretched and the grub screws only adequately tensioned to allow the cable some ‘give’ in the event of an overload. You can mount in the brick (clinker) or in the mortar joints.
Our heavy and massive styles are best avoided. However, if you feel the need for a more heavy duty kit, we recommend one of the medium designs, preferably the Premium, because there is particularly little expansion pressure. Here the mounts should be set closer to each other – approximately 0.8 m to 1.0 m instead of the usual1.5 m to 1.8 m. The tensile stresses are then distributed over more evenly spaced, anchored points. Another alternative is metal rod trellises, as they force less pressure on the anchor due to their rigid structure, which results in the outer wall being less stressed.
For drilling we recommend hammer drill HB 44444.
Different Types of Brick Walls
There’s more to building a brick wall than simply putting one brick on top of another.
Did you know there’s a number of different ways to build the walls of your building project?
Even if someone else is laying the bricks for you, it’s good to know what type of wall you’re getting.
Most buildings these days follow one of three different wall types, depending on the respective needs of that building.
We’re not talking about brick bonds; that’s a subject for a whole other post.
This is everything you need to know about the different types of brick masonry you might find in your building.
An Important Distinction
The first distinction that needs to be made is whether the brick masonry is load bearing or non-load bearing. All brick walls are one of the two.
Load bearing walls are an integral part of the building structure. They carry the weight of the building and as such need to comply with regulations to make sure they keep it up.
Most load bearing walls are on the exterior but are less common these days as there are now easier, more economical ways of providing the load bearing part of a structure.
Non-load bearing walls only need to support themselves and the weight of whatever cladding is on them. They are not required to carry the weight of the structure.
These are often used as partition walls to divide the rooms of the building and can be demolished without causing any structural damage.
Equally, as per the point above, you could have a non-load bearing wall on the exterior if the structure is supported by an interior wall or veneer. More on that below.
Find Out Which Is Which Before Doing Any Work
Knowing whether a brick wall is load bearing or non-load bearing isn’t always that simple to find out.
But if you’re thinking of knocking a wall through, you need to make sure you’ve got it checked to ensure it isn’t load bearing. To do this you’ll need to call in a surveyor or structural engineer.
Even if the interior or exterior layer is not load bearing, the other layer will likely be, so it’s best to make sure you have extra support in place before doing any work.
The 3 Types Of Brick Wall
In most buildings today the structure will comprise of one of these types of brick wall.
Some are more popular than others for reasons we’ll go into below.
Solid Brick Walls
Solid walls have two or more layers of brickwork which are held together with metal ties or header bricks.
These header bricks lie perpendicular to the plane of the wall, creating a load bearing result. Without them there is only so high the adjacent layers could go before becoming unstable.
This is the most reliable and long-lasting type of brick masonry because it creates a thick, sturdy wall, assuming durable bricks and mortar are used.
Many older brick buildings will have solid walls, but due to the sheer number of bricks required, newer residential buildings will have one of the following.
Cavity Brick Walls
First used in the mid twentieth century, this is probably the most popular form of masonry in use today.
Cavity walls involve 2 outer layers of brick with the inner layer usually being the load bearing or support layer. (Not all cavity walls are necessarily load bearing)
The inner support could be another brick wall, concrete blocks or poured concrete.
There has to be at least 2-4 inches between the layers to create the cavity.
Cavity walls are popular for a number of reasons including their propensity for water prevention, the air space between the layers acting as a water barrier.
Because the inner wall does all the hard work when it comes to bearing loads, the outer wall has a more aesthetic purpose. This is where you can get your nice brickwork done.
Wall ties are inserted at regular intervals into the mortar beds to maintain the rigidity of the transverse layers.
Veneer Brick Walls
Veneer walls have a single layer of brick tied to steel or wooden studs which comprise the load bearing structure.
Like the cavity wall, the exterior layer serves a purely aesthetic purpose and is not load bearing. This single wall therefore has low insulation value and insulation material is generally attached to the studs and not incorporated in the masonry.
These are pretty popular for their low cost and relative simplicity to build.
The exterior also provides a lot of aesthetic flexibility.
Build With Confidence
So, there you go. Hopefully you feel like you know your walls a bit better.
If you have a preference for a particular kind of construction, whether that’s based on price or style, you should have a better idea of what you’re looking for.
You know about brick walls, but what about the bricks to build it with?
We can sort that. Check out our brick selection or brick library section.
Masonry vs. Brick Veneer | Carson Dunlop Home Inspection
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While this issue is not at the center of the unity debate, we in Ontario should realize that Canadians in the rest of this country think we’re a little nuts because of our fixation with brick houses. Our theory is that people in Ontario were raised on stories like the “Three Little Pigs”. We want a house that nobody can huff and puff and blow down.
What most people in Ontario don’t realize is that there are two very different types of brick houses: brick veneer and solid masonry.
Solid Masonry
Solid masonry construction is also called ‘Solid Brick’, ‘Double Brick’, and sometimes ‘Brick and Block’. In its most common form, a solid masonry wall consists of an outer layer of brick and an inner layer of brick (a layer of brick is called a ‘wythe’ in masonry circles).
The reason why solid masonry is a more accurate description than solid brick or double brick is because the inner wythe may not be brick. Because the inner wythe will never be seen, concrete or cinder block is sometimes substituted for brick.
As a brick wall increases in height, there is more and more danger that the inner wythe will separate from the outer wythe. To hold the two wythe’s together, header bricks are installed, usually every six rows. From the outside, header bricks look like regular bricks except they are shorter. In reality, they are the same size as a normal brick, however they are installed sideways so that the end of the brick is visible from the exterior of the building.
The header bricks act as a bridge between the outer wythe and the inner wythe and prevent the two from separating.
Therefore, most solid masonry walls display header bricks in every 6th row or course. Sometimes, every brick in the course is a header brick, however there are a number of common patterns. It is not unusual to see two long bricks followed by two short ones then two long ones then two short ones. (The long bricks, by the way, are called stretchers.)
Sometimes bricks are installed over windows with their long face parallel to the wall but the brick standing on its end. These are called soldiers.
It is possible to build a solid masonry wall using metal ties to hold the two wythes of masonry together. When this is done, no header bricks will be visible and the wall can easily be mistaken for a brick veneer wall.
So What’s so Good About a Solid Masonry Wall?
There is no question that the big bad wolf will find this wall the hardest to blow down.
Structurally, solid masonry walls are very strong and can, if properly maintained, provide hundreds of years of service.
What is Brick Veneer?
If solid masonry is so good, why is it that most brick houses built in the last 30 years are brick veneer construction?
Firstly, we have to understand the difference between brick veneer and solid masonry. The biggest difference is that with solid masonry, the brick is holding up the house. With brick veneer, the house is holding up the brick!
When we say brick veneer, we don’t mean those little thin slices that you glue on your kitchen wall. We mean an honest to goodness brick. However, the wall is only one wythe thick. Behind the brick veneer is a wood frame wall which is actually holding up the house. The brick veneer is, in effect, siding!
Insulation
Brick veneer became the norm when building codes began to require insulation in the exterior walls. One of the best insulators is air.
Most good insulation does nothing but trap air; that’s why most insulations are light and fluffy. Brick is not exactly light and fluffy. Therefore it’s not really a very good insulator. A brick veneer house then, is really a wood frame house where the cavity between the studs in the wall can be insulated.
The walls are built, covered with sheathing and often insulated before the brick is even installed. As the brick is being installed, metal ties are nailed onto the wood frame wall. It is important that they be nailed into the studs and not just into the sheathing. The metal ties are then bent so that they are horizontal where they become imbedded in the mortar joints as the brick veneer wall is constructed. The brick veneer is built on the outer edge of the foundation wall so that a one inch air space remains between the brick veneer and the sheathing.
How Waterproof Is Brick?
The short answer is “not very”. With a wind driven rain, moisture will pass right through a brick wall.
The one inch air space behind the brick allows this water to run down the back surface of the brick. At the bottom of the wall cavity, a plastic or metal flashing collects the water and allows it to drain out through weep holes. You’ll find weep holes spaced at approximately 32″ (every fourth brick) along the top of foundation walls and above doors and windows.
Not only do the weep holes let the water drain out of the wall, but they also allow the wind to get behind the brick and pressurize the one inch airspace between the back of the brick and the sheathing. Believe it or not, this extra air pressure reduces the amount of rain that gets forced through the wall.
So Which is Better?
Well that depends on your criteria. Solid masonry walls are certainly stronger, however brick veneer walls are plenty strong and are certainly better insulated. In the big scheme of things, the differences between the two types of construction should not be important enough to affect a purchase decision.
In the interests of national unity, you shouldn’t even care whether the house has any brick.
Line drawings are from Carson Dunlop’s Home Inspection Training Program
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April 29, 2014 General, Structure
What is Double Brick? [2022]
Double brick homes are a type of masonry construction where the outer walls are made up of two bricklayers. In most cases, an air gap or insulation is required between the exterior and internal wall.
Because double-brick homes require extra steps in their construction process, they can cost anywhere from 5 to 25 per cent more than typical stick frame housing.
In addition, the double brick house often has a lesser level of sound insulation compared to other types of homes that may not be as strong on a per-inch basis as a double brick house, but do not have the same additional costs associated with them. For this reason, some builders also refer to double brick houses as “built for comfort.
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What is the Benefit of Double Brick Construction?
One reason why builders prefer using double-brick construction in residential construction is that it provides a greater amount of fire resistance than other types of building materials.
This makes double brick homes more energy-efficient and less likely to experience problems such as water damage during natural disasters, such as floods or earthquakes.
In addition, masonry structures tend to retain heat better than wooden structures. During the winter, the bricks absorb heat from sunlight and release it at night – reducing heating costs for homeowners and helping keep rooms warmer during cold months of the year.
Double Brick Walls Construction
Double brick construction is often used on commercial buildings because there is already a significant cost difference between traditional and double-brick housing options so little additional expense can be saved by choosing another type of material for roofs or siding, which are not affected by insulation anyway.
Though double brick homes are still commonly used, some builders have begun to use an alternative to traditional double-brick construction by using insulated concrete blocks form (ICFs) to construct homes. Though this newer option requires less insulation than standard double-brick homes, there is a growing number of evidence that suggests it may be a viable alternative for those looking for a lower cost housing option.
What is the Difference Between Double Brick and Brick Veneer?
A double brick wall construction is what you would find on a commercial building, while a brick veneer is typically found on single and multi-family homes.
The main difference between the two building materials is that brick veneer only replaces the exterior layer of material with bricks, while double brick construction replaces both.
With double-brick buildings, fireproofing can be built in from the start. In addition, masonry double brick structures tend to hold heat better than wooden structures during the winter months.
Is Double Brick House Good?
Brick veneer is not as good as double brick construction. For example, a brick veneer does not provide fireproofing and may not be as energy-efficient.
However, because it does not involve the same additional costs (5-25% higher) as double brick construction, it can be a viable option for those looking for cheaper houses to buy or rent.
In addition, double brick houses tend to have a lesser level of sound insulation compared to other types of homes that may not be as strong on a per-inch basis. For this reason, some builders also refer to double brick houses as “built for comfort.”
Double Brick Wall- How it Looks Like
Why do Old Houses have Brick Vents?
Brick vents help eliminate moisture and exhaust gases in rooms so mould does not grow. Certain bricks, such as “air bricks,” also allow air ventilation indoors.
Old houses typically have brick vents because old houses used materials that need to be dried out more often than what we use today.
For example, the materials that were used for roofs and siding when old houses were built can’t stand up to water as today’s alternative materials do, so they require a greater degree of drying out and ventilation
Also, because insulation was not common in older homes like it is today, internal walls would breathe even more than they do now during the winter season when moist air from inside became colder outside and created condensation on interior surfaces – which we would now refer to as mould.
Conversely, during the warmer seasons when moisture levels rise indoors condensation can also occur on exterior walls. During this time, water-laden air is drawn into the brick vents and then released outside like exhaust gas – allowing homes to breathe easier and preventing the formation of mould inside the building.
Are Double Brick Houses Worth More?
Builders of double-brick houses argue that they are worth more than brick masonry brick veneer houses because they provide a better level of insulation and fireproofing.
They also claim that a full double brick wall house can retain heat better than other types of construction during the colder months
On the other hand, some builders feel that sticks and bricks, or traditional internal wood-frame homes, can be just as well insulated given their cost. These builders also feel that the differences in insulation between these two options are not enough to justify the additional cost for this type of construction.
The double brick house can be very expensive to buy or rent, but if you plan to stay in your home long-term then it may be worth investing in them to save money in the long run.
What are the Advantages of a Double Brick Home?
Double-brick construction has better insulation because it involves placing double walls between the structural support – allowing for greater control when insulating
The thicker wall means that there is less chance of air infiltration, which reduces drafts and makes heating easier. Double bricks also make walls more sturdy and less likely to bow or flex.
Building with a double brick wall also means that the exterior of the house is more protected. They make the exterior walls more fireproof and resistant to termites
However, double brick also make homes heavier than single brick-walled homes, so it is more expensive to install a double brick veneer.
What are the Disadvantages of Double Brick?
Double brick construction also has some disadvantages. These walls are thicker than single brick walls so they allow less natural light into the interior space.
Also, double bricks can be more difficult to keep clean and maintain a good look – especially if the bricks are not sealed properly. Similarly, double brick homes can be costlier to heat and cool than other types of homes.
Double Brick Houses Australia
Double brick houses in Australia are the same as normal brick veneer home and allow you to take advantage of your property’s sun exposure and natural daylight. If you like the look and feel of using bricks in your home, but don’t want to worry about maintenance or stains, then a double brick veneer is perfect for you.
Construction of a two-layer and three-layer wall
To achieve the maximum effect of heat and sound insulation of the outer wall, it is erected in two or three layers:
- Bearing layer – bearing wall of ordinary bricks, ceramic blocks, foam concrete, etc. ;
- T heat-insulating layer – insulation made of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene;
- Facade layer – external (facade) masonry of clinker or facing bricks.
In addition, when building a wall, it is imperative to leave a ventilation layer, regardless of whether insulation is used.
The ventilation layer should be 2-4 cm wide. This will prevent the condensation of atmospheric moisture in the mineral insulation, which significantly reduces its thermal insulation properties.
| Wall without insulation | Insulated wall |
1) bearing wall
2) insulation – mineral fiber;
3) ventilation layer
4) facade masonry
5a) anchor
5b) anchor with a pressure drop circle
6) ventilation and drying box
7) waterproofing apron
8) insulation – expanded polystyrene 9003
9) plinth When performing facade masonry, it is necessary to prevent the mortar from entering the ventilation layer.
Ventilation
Due to temperature differences, moisture condenses in the ventilation layer. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure full air circulation in it and the possibility of removing condensate. To do this, ventilation voids are left in the facade masonry – vertical seams that are not filled with mortar. The essence of the placement of such seams is that the air would freely enter and be removed from the ventilation layer, ventilating the wall as much as possible over the entire plane.
In this way, the ventilation hollows are left:
— in the lower and upper row with a step of 100-150 cm, and no closer than 25 cm from the corner of the wall;
– under and above the windows with a step of 100 cm, but not less than 2 pcs. on the window;
– above doorways;
– under and above lintels and ceilings in multi-storey buildings;
— additionally in the middle of the wall with masonry height over 6 m.
Important! Ventilation wastelands in masonry should be placed strictly one above the other.
“Waterproofing apron” – waterproofing with a slope to the wasteland. To prevent the penetration of insects, special ventilation-drying boxes or a plastic mesh twisted into a tube are laid in the ventilation wastelands.
Anchoring
Facade masonry is connected to the load-bearing wall using anchors made of corrosion-resistant materials: corrosion-resistant steel, composite plastic (fiberglass, basalt-reinforced plastic). According to the method of fastening to the bearing wall, the anchors are divided into embedded and driven.
| Insert anchors |
| Drive-in anchors with dowel |
The first ones are laid in the horizontal seams of the load-bearing wall immediately upon its erection.
The second ones are driven into the already erected load-bearing wall, directly during the installation of the insulation and the execution of the facade masonry.
Important! The laying of anchors in the facade masonry is carried out only in mortar, to a depth of 6-8 cm. anchors. Anchor bending is carried out only upwards. In addition, this connection method requires the construction of all layers of the wall during one construction season. In the second connection method, it is harder to fix the anchors in the load-bearing wall, but it is easier to install the insulation, there is no need to bend the anchors (which strengthens the connection), it is possible to install the insulation and erect the facade masonry for the next construction season.
If the wall structure provides for a ventilation layer, a pressure drop circle must be put on the anchor.
It performs a dual function: it presses the mineral insulation against the load-bearing wall and removes moisture from the interlayer, condensing it on itself.
Depending on the height and length of the wall, wind load, the presence of architectural elements, the number of anchors can be from 4 to 8 pcs. per sq. m.
It has been practically proved that the optimal number of anchors is 5 pcs. per sq.m. But in any case, the calculation of the number of anchors should be entrusted to a specialist designer. Here we give only general recommendations for placing anchors in the wall.
The maximum distance between anchors horizontally is 50 cm. Vertically every 30-40 cm, or every 5-6 rows of facade masonry. Pawning is carried out in a “chess” order. Particular attention should be paid to problem areas of the wall – wall corners, lintels, window and door openings. Here the anchors are laid linearly in increments of 30 cm vertically and horizontally, and at least 15 cm from the edge of the opening or corner.
Expansion joints
Expansion joints are a very important structural detail of the walls – joints not filled with mortar vertically or horizontally, which are left in places where it is possible to expect displacement of the bearing and facade masonry relative to each other.
Expansion joints are temperature and shrinkage. Expansion joints are arranged in walls with a large length to prevent the appearance of cracks due to temperature changes, or due to a temperature difference in the bearing facade masonry. Shrinkage joints are arranged in places where uneven shrinkage of adjacent sections of the wall or different parts of the building can be expected.
Placement of expansion joints
| Complete facade masonry | Partial façade base |
Permissibility between expansion joints
| Vertical joints (width)
|
| |
| 12-14 m | for northern facades | |
| 10-12 m | for east facades | |
| 8-9 m | for south facades | |
| 7-8 m | for western facades |
| Horizontal joints (high) |
up to 12 m | with full front base |
| 6-8 m | with partial façade base |
Horizontal and vertical expansion joints:
| Horizontal joint | Vertical notched seam | Vertical straight seam |
After installation, expansion joints are sealed with a special polymeric elastic material – expansion tape.
Facade reinforcement systems
The use of the MURFOR facade reinforcement system will help to avoid cracks due to uneven loading in different parts of the wall. MURFOR reinforcement is a welded structure of two parallel rods connected to each other by a sinusoidally curved third rod.
Laid into the mortar, it relieves stress in problem areas of the masonry, distributing it evenly. Typically, areas in which such stress occurs are in window and door openings, places where the height of the masonry changes.
| Window opening |
| Doorway |
| Wall height change |
To prevent the destruction of the wall, due to possible subsidence of the soil 5 lower rows of masonry and every next 5-6 rows.
Reinforcement along the perimeter of 4-5 upper rows of masonry creates an upper armored belt that replaces the traditional reinforced concrete “crown”, which significantly saves materials and time.
The use of special clamps together with MURFOR fittings allows placing lintels over windows and doors.
Horizontal masonry
Vertical masonry
Armopias on hinged consoles
Clamps are laid in the first row along the edges of the openings and in each second vertical shov of the crossbars for the veins for the veins, for the vertical clan for the vertical clan, and each vertical seam for horizontal masonry. Between the first and second, as well as the second and third rows, MURFOR reinforcement is laid for the entire length of the jumper and beyond its edges.
The use of special Baut suspended brackets together with MURFOR allows the creation of suspended facade systems, which is especially important in high-rise construction.
To do this, a row of consoles is attached to the load-bearing wall along the perimeter of the building, on which the first row of facade masonry is laid out. Further, MURFOR reinforcement is laid in the first three rows, creating an armored belt, which becomes a support for the next rows of masonry.
The construction of a curtain wall system is used in the following cases:
- High-rise construction, with a facade height of more than 12m;
- When facade masonry starts, for example, from the second floor;
- When arranging horizontal expansion joints;
- When installing jumpers with a length of more than 2m.
Ceramic blocks for double wall
Ceramic Blocks for Double Layer Wall
Ceramic Blocks for Double Layer Wall
Double Layer Wall is a popular solution that combines the advantages of a single wall and a three layer wall. Such walls consist of ceramic blocks and insulation, or ceramic blocks and facing bricks. Ceramic blocks are the load-bearing part of the outer wall. The wall of the building can be laid from many types of ceramic blocks, and the layer of ceramic blocks must be at least 30 – 40 cm thick. The thickness of the insulation (12-20 cm) dictates the thermal conductivity. External double-layer walls can be built by any construction team. First, a carrier layer of warm ceramics is placed on the foundation, and then from the outside – the entire insulation system. The facade is strengthened with the help of flexible ties, or anchors. The walls are finished with plaster or facing bricks. It is strongly recommended to use a warm masonry mortar for laying ceramic blocks to remove cold bridges.
When building an external two-layer wall of large-format porous ceramic blocks, which will immediately be finished with facing brick without an additional layer of insulation , porous ceramic blocks should be from 38 cm to 50 cm thick. For this type of two-layer wall, the most famous manufacturers of warm porous ceramics offer a variety of ceramic blocks. The Wienerberger concern produces Porotherm 51 ceramic blocks and Porotherm 44 blocks with good thermal characteristics at factories in Kiprevo and near Kazan. The ceramic materials plant in Samara produces ultra-warm Kerakam 38 Super Thermo ceramic blocks and Kerakam 51 ceramic blocks. The LSR group of companies, at a plant near St. Petersburg, produces large-format bricks, Rauf 14.3 NF ceramic blocks. All of these blocks have their advantages. Their technical characteristics and prices can be found on the pages of our website, or on the websites of manufacturers. The facing brick used on the facade of the house to decorate and protect the walls can be very different. For these, clinker bricks, hand-molded bricks or traditional ceramic face bricks are usually used. When laying facing bricks, it is recommended to use colored masonry mortars.
The second type of external double wall construction is ceramic block walls insulated with foam or mineral wool. The facade of such a wall is plastered. For the construction of the bearing part of such a wall, Porotherm 38 ceramic blocks, Porotherm 44 blocks, Kerakam 30 Super Thermo blocks, Kerakam 38 Super Thermo blocks, as well as Rauf ceramic blocks are used. In Europe, this method of building two-layer walls is very popular. In Russia, according to tradition, when building two-layer walls from ceramic blocks, the first method is mainly used, or single-layer and three-layer external walls are built.
Advantages:
• the wall of ceramic blocks is relatively easy to mount, and the specifics of the construction allow us to divide the investment into two stages: both insulation and facade finishing in the next season
• excellent heat transfer coefficient
• much easier, thanks to the thermal insulation layer, to obtain uniform thermal protection on the entire surface of the external wall
• any areas resulting from mechanical damage can be filled with mortar
• a well-placed layer of insulation will eliminate possible thermal bridges that occur during the construction of walls
• The foundation can be significantly narrower than for a single-layer wall. We save on materials
• it is easier to correctly insulate problem areas of joints and lintels of the wall
Disadvantages:
• the method requires a lot of time
• it is necessary to optimally select the thickness and type of insulation (polystyrene foam or mineral wool), too thick (over 25 cm ) significantly increases construction costs
More than 90% of houses in Russia are built of brick , and increasingly prefer warm ceramics. From the point of view of thermal insulation parameters, the best material for the construction of external walls are large-format porous ceramic blocks. The high thermal insulation of brick walls built from ceramic blocks is the easiest way to achieve warmth in multi-layer structures. Porous hollow ceramic blocks are made from biologically pure and natural raw materials – clay. Ceramic blocks are designed for the construction of multi-layer and single-layer walls, external and internal. Due to their low density, porous ceramic blocks are light in weight, which simplifies and speeds up the work of the bricklayer and reduces the financial costs associated with wages.
Ceramic Blocks for Double Layer Wall
Double Layer Wall is a popular solution that combines the advantages of a single wall and a three layer wall. Such walls consist of ceramic blocks and insulation, or ceramic blocks and facing bricks. Ceramic blocks are the load-bearing part of the outer wall. The wall of the building can be laid from many types of ceramic blocks, and the layer of ceramic blocks must be at least 30 – 40 cm thick. The thickness of the insulation (12-20 cm) dictates the thermal conductivity. External double-layer walls can be built by any construction team. First, a carrier layer of warm ceramics is placed on the foundation, and then from the outside – the entire insulation system. The facade is strengthened with the help of flexible ties, or anchors. The walls are finished with plaster or facing bricks. It is strongly recommended to use a warm masonry mortar for laying ceramic blocks to remove cold bridges.
When building an external two-layer wall of large-format porous ceramic blocks, which will immediately be finished with facing brick without an additional layer of insulation , porous ceramic blocks should be from 38 cm to 50 cm thick. For this type of two-layer wall, the most famous manufacturers of warm porous ceramics offer a variety of ceramic blocks. The Wienerberger concern produces Porotherm 51 ceramic blocks and Porotherm 44 blocks with good thermal characteristics at factories in Kiprevo and near Kazan. The ceramic materials plant in Samara produces ultra-warm Kerakam 38 Super Thermo ceramic blocks and Kerakam 51 ceramic blocks. The LSR group of companies, at a plant near St. Petersburg, produces large-format bricks, Rauf 14.3 NF ceramic blocks. All of these blocks have their advantages. Their technical characteristics and prices can be found on the pages of our website, or on the websites of manufacturers. The facing brick used on the facade of the house to decorate and protect the walls can be very different. For these, clinker bricks, hand-molded bricks or traditional ceramic face bricks are usually used. When laying facing bricks, it is recommended to use colored masonry mortars.
The second type of external double wall construction is ceramic block walls insulated with foam or mineral wool. The facade of such a wall is plastered. For the construction of the bearing part of such a wall, Porotherm 38 ceramic blocks, Porotherm 44 blocks, Kerakam 30 Super Thermo blocks, Kerakam 38 Super Thermo blocks, as well as Rauf ceramic blocks are used. In Europe, this method of building two-layer walls is very popular. In Russia, according to tradition, when building two-layer walls from ceramic blocks, the first method is mainly used, or single-layer and three-layer external walls are built.
Advantages:
• the wall of ceramic blocks is relatively easy to mount, and the specifics of the construction allow us to divide the investment into two stages: both insulation and facade finishing in the next season
• excellent heat transfer coefficient
• much easier, thanks to the thermal insulation layer, to obtain uniform thermal protection on the entire surface of the external wall
• any areas resulting from mechanical damage can be filled with mortar
• a well-placed layer of insulation will eliminate possible thermal bridges that occur during the construction of walls
• The foundation can be significantly narrower than for a single-layer wall. We save on materials
• it is easier to correctly insulate problem areas of joints and lintels of the wall
Disadvantages:
• the method requires a lot of time
• it is necessary to optimally select the thickness and type of insulation (polystyrene foam or mineral wool), too thick (over 25 cm ) significantly increases construction costs
More than 90% of houses in Russia are built of brick , and increasingly prefer warm ceramics. From the point of view of thermal insulation parameters, the best material for the construction of external walls are large-format porous ceramic blocks. The high thermal insulation of brick walls built from ceramic blocks is the easiest way to achieve warmth in multi-layer structures. Porous hollow ceramic blocks are made from biologically pure and natural raw materials – clay. Ceramic blocks are designed for the construction of multi-layer and single-layer walls, external and internal. Due to their low density, porous ceramic blocks are light in weight, which simplifies and speeds up the work of the bricklayer and reduces the financial costs associated with wages.
Ceramic Blocks for Double Layer Wall
Double Layer Wall is a popular solution that combines the advantages of a single wall and a three layer wall. Such walls consist of ceramic blocks and insulation, or ceramic blocks and facing bricks. Ceramic blocks are the load-bearing part of the outer wall. The wall of the building can be laid from many types of ceramic blocks, and the layer of ceramic blocks must be at least 30 – 40 cm thick. The thickness of the insulation (12-20 cm) dictates the thermal conductivity. External double-layer walls can be built by any construction team. First, a carrier layer of warm ceramics is placed on the foundation, and then from the outside – the entire insulation system. The facade is strengthened with the help of flexible ties, or anchors. The walls are finished with plaster or facing bricks. It is strongly recommended to use a warm masonry mortar for laying ceramic blocks to remove cold bridges.
When building an external two-layer wall of large-format porous ceramic blocks, which will immediately be finished with facing brick without an additional layer of insulation , porous ceramic blocks should be from 38 cm to 50 cm thick. For this type of two-layer wall, the most famous manufacturers of warm porous ceramics offer a variety of ceramic blocks. The Wienerberger concern produces Porotherm 51 ceramic blocks and Porotherm 44 blocks with good thermal characteristics at factories in Kiprevo and near Kazan. The ceramic materials plant in Samara produces ultra-warm Kerakam 38 Super Thermo ceramic blocks and Kerakam 51 ceramic blocks. The LSR group of companies, at a plant near St. Petersburg, produces large-format bricks, Rauf 14.3 NF ceramic blocks. All of these blocks have their advantages. Their technical characteristics and prices can be found on the pages of our website, or on the websites of manufacturers. The facing brick used on the facade of the house to decorate and protect the walls can be very different. For these, clinker bricks, hand-molded bricks or traditional ceramic face bricks are usually used. When laying facing bricks, it is recommended to use colored masonry mortars.
The second type of external double wall construction is ceramic block walls insulated with foam or mineral wool. The facade of such a wall is plastered. For the construction of the bearing part of such a wall, Porotherm 38 ceramic blocks, Porotherm 44 blocks, Kerakam 30 Super Thermo blocks, Kerakam 38 Super Thermo blocks, as well as Rauf ceramic blocks are used. In Europe, this method of building two-layer walls is very popular. In Russia, according to tradition, when building two-layer walls from ceramic blocks, the first method is mainly used, or single-layer and three-layer external walls are built.
Advantages:
• the wall of ceramic blocks is relatively easy to mount, and the specifics of the construction allow us to divide the investment into two stages: both insulation and facade finishing in the next season
• excellent heat transfer coefficient
• much easier, thanks to the thermal insulation layer, to obtain uniform thermal protection on the entire surface of the external wall
• any areas resulting from mechanical damage can be filled with mortar
• a well-placed layer of insulation will eliminate possible thermal bridges that occur during the construction of walls
• The foundation can be significantly narrower than for a single-layer wall. We save on materials
• it is easier to correctly insulate problem areas of joints and lintels of the wall
Disadvantages:
• the method requires a lot of time
• it is necessary to optimally select the thickness and type of insulation (polystyrene foam or mineral wool), too thick (over 25 cm ) significantly increases construction costs
More than 90% of houses in Russia are built of brick , and increasingly prefer warm ceramics. From the point of view of thermal insulation parameters, the best material for the construction of external walls are large-format porous ceramic blocks. The high thermal insulation of brick walls built from ceramic blocks is the easiest way to achieve warmth in multi-layer structures. Porous hollow ceramic blocks are made from biologically pure and natural raw materials – clay. Ceramic blocks are designed for the construction of multi-layer and single-layer walls, external and internal. Due to their low density, porous ceramic blocks are light in weight, which simplifies and speeds up the work of the bricklayer and reduces the financial costs associated with wages.
Ceramic Blocks for Double Layer Wall
Double Layer Wall is a popular solution that combines the advantages of a single wall and a three layer wall. Such walls consist of ceramic blocks and insulation, or ceramic blocks and facing bricks. Ceramic blocks are the load-bearing part of the outer wall. The wall of the building can be laid from many types of ceramic blocks, and the layer of ceramic blocks must be at least 30 – 40 cm thick. The thickness of the insulation (12-20 cm) dictates the thermal conductivity. External double-layer walls can be built by any construction team. First, a carrier layer of warm ceramics is placed on the foundation, and then from the outside – the entire insulation system. The facade is strengthened with the help of flexible ties, or anchors. The walls are finished with plaster or facing bricks. It is strongly recommended to use a warm masonry mortar for laying ceramic blocks to remove cold bridges.
When building an external two-layer wall of large-format porous ceramic blocks, which will immediately be finished with facing brick without an additional layer of insulation , porous ceramic blocks should be from 38 cm to 50 cm thick. For this type of two-layer wall, the most famous manufacturers of warm porous ceramics offer a variety of ceramic blocks. The Wienerberger concern produces Porotherm 51 ceramic blocks and Porotherm 44 blocks with good thermal characteristics at factories in Kiprevo and near Kazan. The ceramic materials plant in Samara produces ultra-warm Kerakam 38 Super Thermo ceramic blocks and Kerakam 51 ceramic blocks. The LSR group of companies, at a plant near St. Petersburg, produces large-format bricks, Rauf 14.3 NF ceramic blocks. All of these blocks have their advantages. Their technical characteristics and prices can be found on the pages of our website, or on the websites of manufacturers. The facing brick used on the facade of the house to decorate and protect the walls can be very different. For these, clinker bricks, hand-molded bricks or traditional ceramic face bricks are usually used. When laying facing bricks, it is recommended to use colored masonry mortars.
The second type of external double wall construction is ceramic block walls insulated with foam or mineral wool. The facade of such a wall is plastered. For the construction of the bearing part of such a wall, Porotherm 38 ceramic blocks, Porotherm 44 blocks, Kerakam 30 Super Thermo blocks, Kerakam 38 Super Thermo blocks, as well as Rauf ceramic blocks are used. In Europe, this method of building two-layer walls is very popular. In Russia, according to tradition, when building two-layer walls from ceramic blocks, the first method is mainly used, or single-layer and three-layer external walls are built.
Advantages:
• the wall of ceramic blocks is relatively easy to mount, and the specifics of the construction allow us to divide the investment into two stages: both insulation and facade finishing in the next season
• excellent heat transfer coefficient
• much easier, thanks to the thermal insulation layer, to obtain uniform thermal protection on the entire surface of the external wall
• any areas resulting from mechanical damage can be filled with mortar
• a well-placed layer of insulation will eliminate possible thermal bridges that occur during the construction of walls
• The foundation can be significantly narrower than for a single-layer wall. We save on materials
• it is easier to correctly insulate problem areas of joints and lintels of the wall
Disadvantages:
• the method requires a lot of time
• it is necessary to optimally select the thickness and type of insulation (polystyrene foam or mineral wool), too thick (over 25 cm ) significantly increases construction costs
More than 90% of houses in Russia are built of brick , and increasingly prefer warm ceramics. From the point of view of thermal insulation parameters, the best material for the construction of external walls are large-format porous ceramic blocks. The high thermal insulation of brick walls built from ceramic blocks is the easiest way to achieve warmth in multi-layer structures. Porous hollow ceramic blocks are made from biologically pure and natural raw materials – clay. Ceramic blocks are designed for the construction of multi-layer and single-layer walls, external and internal. Due to their low density, porous ceramic blocks are light in weight, which simplifies and speeds up the work of the bricklayer and reduces the financial costs associated with wages.
Walls, types of walls: brick, ceramic and aerated concrete blocks
04/26/2016
Today, there is a huge variety of materials and methods for building walls. In order to understand what you need to stop at, you need to know what function the walls will perform, in what part of the building they will be located and what parameters they should have.
Main characteristics of walls
Bearing capacity – what load the wall can take (in civil engineering, walls are divided into load-bearing, self-supporting and non-bearing).
Bearing walls take the load from the wind, their own weight, floors, roofs, etc.
Self-supporting take the load from the own weight of the walls of the overlying floors and the wind.
Non-bearing load only from their own weight within one floor at a floor height of not more than 6m. and wind.
The choice of the load-bearing capacity of the wall depends on how the structures of floors, roofs, etc. are supported, and does not depend on whether it is an internal or external wall.
Since almost all wall materials resist compressive load, this parameter is the main one – its values are often used in the name of the material under the names “grade strength” or simply “grade”. In practice, strength designations are often found, expressed in various systems of calculation, but it is important to remember a simple correspondence: 10 MPa is approximately equal to 100 kg / cm2. That is, if you become the proud owner of a block wall material, for which a compressive strength of 12.5 MPa is indicated, you can be sure that it will make a wall that has the same strength as brick, grade M125. Each square centimeter of the cross section of such a wall can withstand a load of up to 125 kg without destruction. In practice, materials having a compressive strength below 10 kg/cm2 are not used as structural materials. The upper limit of strength for piece materials is dictated by the number of storeys of the structure being erected. For cottage housing construction, the strength index of wall material above 150 kg / cm2 is considered excessive.
Thermal conductivity – the ability of a wall to conduct heat. In civil engineering, thermal conductivity matters mainly for external walls. With the current cost of energy carriers, this characteristic is often the main factor in choosing materials for the construction of external walls.
When comparing thermal engineering of various designs and materials, it is enough to remember that the lower the coefficient of thermal conductivity, the better the heat insulator you got. Thermal comfort in the room is achieved by observing the minimum allowable value of thermal resistance of external walls. This indicator directly depends on the thickness of the wall and the thermal conductivity of the material. It is standardized by the state building code DBN V.2.6-31:2006 depending on the temperature zone of operation of the house and is for the central regions of Ukraine (I and II zones) 2. 8 m2•K/W and 2.5 m2•K/W, respectively .
Other factors that can affect the choice of design and material are: soundproofing properties, resistance to water and moisture, installation speed, weight of the wall structure, fire resistance, cost of the finished square meter of the wall.
All these characteristics are very important when choosing walls, and only the right combination of them will give the desired result.
Walls can be single or multi-layered. The most expedient and cost-effective is the combination of materials in multilayer walls, where the loads are taken up by one material, the second provides low thermal conductivity, and the third provides water tightness.
Consider the most commonly used materials:
Brick wall (ceramic brick)
Proven wall construction. Ceramic bricks are obtained by firing molded clay blanks. At present, for the laying of such walls, general construction hollow bricks of a standard size (250x120x65mm) or “one and a half” (259x120x88mm) are most often used.
| Weight, kg | 2.4…2.7 |
| Compressive strength, kg/cm 2 | 125 |
| Average density, kg/m 3 | 1350 |
| Thermal conductivity W(m* o K) | 0.4 |
| Water absorption, % | 13 |
| Frost resistance, cycles | 35 |
Advantages of a wall made of ceramic bricks
- High structural strength and load-bearing capacity: brickwork can bear the load from floor slabs and truss systems without additional strengthening measures.
- Absolutely ecological and bio-resistant: fired clay is biologically inert.
- High thermal inertia, which reduces the dependence of the inhabitants of a brick house on sudden changes in outdoor temperature.
- Long-term (up to 100 years or more) stability of operational and geometric parameters.
- High fire resistance.
- The small dimensions of the bricks make it possible to reproduce complex third-order surfaces with small curvature radii without additional machining.
- Easily combines with all types of additional finishes – face brick cladding, plaster, siding and various decorative and protective panels.
Disadvantages of a ceramic brick wall
- The high average density of the finished brickwork causes a significant weight of the wall and, as a result, increases the requirements for the foundation.
- Relatively low thermal insulation parameters require the installation of brick walls of irrational large thickness (up to a meter or more) or additional thermal insulation measures.
- The small size of the bricks entails a significant investment in time and resources for the construction of walls. According to existing standards, with a rough laying of a brick wall, the production rate per bricklayer is just over one cubic meter per 8-hour shift.
- High present value per square meter of wall with normative thermal parameters.
Brick wall (silicate brick)
Sand-lime brick is made from sand, lime and a small proportion of additives. The molded workpiece from the silicate mixture is exposed to superheated water vapor at a pressure of about 10 atmospheres. The dimensions of silicate bricks coincide with the dimensions of ceramic ones, which makes it possible in practice to combine these materials in masonry. The most massively produced silicate brick with the following parameters:
| Weight, kg | 3.7 |
| Compressive strength, kg/cm 2 | 150 |
| Average density, kg/m 3 | 1750 |
| Thermal conductivity W(m* o K) | 0.95 |
| Water absorption, % | 13 |
| Frost resistance, cycles | 35 |
Benefits of a sand-lime brick wall
- High structural strength and load-bearing capacity: brickwork can absorb the load from floor slabs and the truss system without additional strengthening measures.
- Absolutely ecological and bio-resistant: the reacted sand and lime are biologically inert.
- Long-term stability of operational and geometric parameters.
- High fire resistance.
- The small dimensions of the bricks make it possible to reproduce complex third-order surfaces with small curvature radii without additional machining.
- Easily combines with all types of additional finishes – face brick cladding, plaster, siding and various decorative and protective panels.
Disadvantages of a sand-lime brick wall
- The very high average density of the finished brickwork causes the greatest weight of the wall among the considered options and, as a result, increases the requirements for the foundation.
- Low thermal insulation properties require the installation of brick walls of irrationally large thickness (up to a meter or more) or additional thermal insulation measures.
- Silicate brick does not tolerate constant contact with moisture and is afraid of exposure to high temperatures, which sharply limits its scope.
- The small size entails a significant investment in time and resources for the construction of walls. The production rates when laying walls made of silicate bricks are the same as in the case of using ceramic bricks.
- The use of silicate brick as a face brick is undesirable, since under the influence of rain, the lime-sand bonds are gradually destroyed and the material is weathered. In addition, in megacities and large industrial centers, snow-white silicate facades become dirty gray in a year or two.
- High present value per square meter of wall for given thermal parameters.
Ceramic block wall
They are made from the same clays as ordinary ceramic bricks. The production technology is also very similar. The highlight of the material is the formation of a large number (more than 50% by volume) of through channels of small cross-sectional area, evenly distributed throughout the volume of a large-sized clay blank, as well as the creation of protrusions and grooves on the outer surfaces of the blocks, which are a kind of lock.
When blocks are joined in one continuous row, the ridges of one block correspond exactly to the grooves of the adjacent block. In this way, reliable, mortar-free fixation of blocks in horizontal rows is achieved. Masonry mortar is consumed only for connecting horizontal rows to each other. The dimensions of ceramic blocks are usually multiples of the dimensions of bricks, which makes it easy to combine these materials in places with complex geometry that require reinforcement or when combined with facing bricks on the front side of the wall.
| Block dimensions, mm | 380x248x238 |
| equivalent brick, pcs. | 11.5 |
| Weight, kg | 18.6 |
| Compressive strength, kg/cm 2 | 128 |
| Average density, kg/m 3 | 830 |
| Thermal conductivity W(m* o K) | 0. |
| Water absorption, % | 12 |
| Frost resistance, cycles | 50 |
Advantages of the walls of ceramic blocks
- Absolute environmental friendliness and bio-resistance: fired clay is biologically inert.
- High thermal inertia, which reduces the dependence of the inhabitants of a brick house on sudden changes in outdoor temperature.
- Excellent thermal insulation properties make it possible to build walls that do not need additional insulation.
- Long-term stability of operational and geometric parameters.
- High fire resistance.
- Simple and easy installation.
- Reduced consumption of masonry mortar.
- Low present value per square meter of wall for given thermal parameters.
- High wall construction speed (up to 2.5 times faster than brick).
- As well as brick walls, it is easily combined with all types of additional finishes – face brick cladding, plaster, siding and various decorative and protective panels.
Disadvantages of walls made of porous large-sized ceramic blocks
- The presence of technological voids requires the use of special mesh gaskets that prevent the masonry mortar from flowing into the holes.
- Due to the structural heterogeneity of the blocks, when they are cut “to size”, technological voids are exposed, which requires separate measures to strengthen such cuts or a rigid binding of the entire dimensional grid of the structure to the base block sizes.
- Problems with the organization of fastening to such a wall of massive interior elements are inevitable, caused by the fragility of the thin walls of technological holes and the high voidness of the material.
AAC wall
The rapid development of cellular concrete technologies, in particular, industrially produced aerated concrete blocks, confirms the well-known saying “Everything new is well forgotten old”. Invented almost a century ago, wall material is becoming an increasingly popular substitute for traditional ceramics and silicates, and is experiencing its second birth in the post-Soviet expanses.
In the most general case, it is customary to call aerated concrete an artificial stone with spherical pores evenly distributed throughout the volume with a diameter of 1 to 3 mm. The process of obtaining this material resembles the autoclave technology of sand-lime bricks with one significant addition: in addition to lime and sand, the raw mix also contains Portland cement and aluminum powder. It is this “winged metal” that makes it possible to fill the “heavy” mineral components of aerated concrete with airy lightness. In the presence of water, metallic aluminum reacts with the hydroxogroups of the solution, forming ordinary aluminum oxide (the main component of any high-quality clay) with the release of free hydrogen, which foams the entire mass.
At the same time, the formation of calcium silicates (as in the production of sand-lime bricks) and the hydration of Portland cement components take place. The resulting material not only combines the best properties of the original materials, but acquires a new quality – an extremely low average density with a sufficiently high strength and, most importantly, excellent thermal properties. With proper design and compliance with all technological requirements, it is possible to build a dwelling from aerated concrete blocks that does not need additional thermal insulation measures at all. As a rule, industrial aerated concrete building kits are based on blocks 600 mm long, 200 mm high and with a thickness depending on specific design requirements.
| Block dimensions, mm | 600x200x100…400 |
| Mass of block 300 mm thick, kg | 18.4 |
| Compressive strength, kg/cm 2 | 15…30 |
| Average density, kg/m 3 | 400 |
| Thermal conductivity W(m* o K) | 0.1 |
| Water absorption, % | >30 |
| Frost resistance, cycles | 25 |
Advantages of the walls of aerated concrete blocks
- Absolute environmental friendliness and bio -resistance resistance: Autoclant aerated concrete of industrial production inerte in a biological sense.
- Excellent thermal insulation properties make it possible to build walls that do not need additional insulation.
- Long-term stability of operational and geometric parameters.
- Low values of the average density of the material allow the use of economical foundations.
- High fire resistance.
- The isotropic structure of the material makes it easy to carry out mechanical processing: sawing, drilling, chasing channels for engineering communications.
- Extreme simplicity and maximum ease of installation.
- The high accuracy of the geometrical parameters of the blocks makes it possible to abandon the rough finish of the facade and interior surfaces of the walls.
- Low consumption of adhesive mortar mix – laying 1m3 of finished mixture will require 20-25 kg of dry adhesive mixture.
- Highest wall construction speed.
Disadvantages of walls made of aerated concrete blocks
- The high hygroscopicity of aerated concrete requires measures to protect the facade from direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation.
- Low in comparison with other wall materials, strength indicators require the use of special elements and installation techniques.
- Complex architectural forms may require a large number of special elements, which, as a rule, are more expensive than wall blocks of the same volume.
- Attaching massive interior elements to such a wall requires the use of special fasteners.
Gas-block + brick – the third is not superfluous?
Increasing the affordability of housing is one of the engines of progress in the construction industry. In a competitive environment, developers seek to reduce the cost of construction through the use of modern materials and technical solutions. For example, in recent decades, two-layer walls made of aerated concrete and brick have become very popular in our country. Facing bricks give such houses external respectability, and light and warm enough aerated concrete is responsible, among other things, for comfort. Two-layer walls are cheaper than completely brick ones, and the architectural image of the building differs little. But will such walls provide the necessary comfort and durability of the house? We deal with an expert – a technical specialist in cottage and low-rise construction of TECHNONICOL Corporation Alexander Pleshkin .
Will the house last for several generations?
Durability is one of the important criteria when choosing technologies for building a house. In the “Engineering and Construction Journal” No. 8 (2009), the results of testing aerated concrete walls with brick cladding are given. The conclusions of scientists are surprising: the service life of such a wall is from 60 to 110 years or more. Materials of the same quality were tested in the same region. As it turned out, such a noticeable difference is due to the technology of using materials: the presence of a ventilation gap between the layers of the wall allows to increase the service life.
“In general, finishing aerated concrete with bricks without a ventilation gap is only permissible for unheated premises. Otherwise, due to the temperature difference, warm and humid air from the room will rush out, steam will begin to accumulate between the layers of the wall, destroying both brick and aerated concrete, – comments Alexander Pleshkin. – The presence of a ventilated gap that provides air circulation (its entrance at the base and exit at the top of the building) will allow water vapor to be freely removed. The service life of such houses is noticeably higher in the presence of a layer of thermal insulation, which will remove the dew point from aerated concrete and increase the thermal resistance of the entire structure.”
Weather at home
There is little doubt that the weather in the house is the most important thing. It is believed that for warm regions, a wall of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 300–400 mm and a facing of half a facing brick fits into the regulatory requirements. Accordingly, the house should be warm and comfortable enough. But in fact, in winter, residents of such houses are very often forced to use all kinds of heating systems. Especially in the first years after construction, when the house “dries out”. Given the cost of electricity, for the family budget, this method of warming up can be expensive. In addition, due to a violation of the temperature and humidity regime at home, the microclimate in the room becomes worse, dampness and mold form, especially in the corners and at the “floor-wall-ceiling” joints.
The results of thermal imaging inspections of objects carried out by the TECHNONICOL Quality Service indicate some problems associated with the operation of houses built using a technology that does not provide for a ventilation gap and a layer of insulation between aerated concrete and brick.
For example, in March 2016, a thermal imaging survey of the facade of a residential complex in the Moscow Region was carried out.
Object data:
Type of object – townhouse at the stage of operation;
Date of delivery of the object – November 30, 2015;
Date of inspection – March 1, 2016;
Facade construction – aerated concrete block (400 mm) + facing brick (120 mm), no insulation.
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Figure 1. General view of the building and readings of temperature and humidity |
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“Wet spots on the facade can be the result of two reasons,” comments Alexander Pleshkin. – Perhaps the wet processes of internal finishing work were carried out during the cold season. During this period, the masonry has not yet had time to dry. There are also no inlets and outlets to create air movement in the ventilated masonry. The steam-air mixture, which penetrated into the masonry from the interior, met with a negative temperature outside, as a result of which it fell out in the form of condensate – water. The second possible reason for the formation of local spots is the presence of powerful heat-conducting inclusions, which acted as a source of condensate in large quantities.
Why do the calculations differ from the facts?
When using thermal imaging, heat losses were revealed at the junction of the wall to the roof, the basement, and along the contour of the floor slabs along the entire perimeter of the facade.
“This is due to the fact that at the design stage, the thermal calculation of the facade complies with the standards for thermal protection of buildings. The nuance is that the calculations are carried out along the smooth surface of the facade, without taking into account the places of junctions and junctions of floor slabs with the wall, windows, armature belts and Mauerlats, and so on. Also, do not forget about taking into account heat losses when laying blocks – in the seams, in most cases, a classic cement-sand mortar is used, less often – a special thin-layer adhesive, but regardless of the type chosen, this method of connecting blocks creates cold bridges, which can provoke condensation of vapors of residual building moisture. If we also take into account heat losses through inhomogeneities, then we already obtain critical values, ”explains the expert.
The calculation results, taking into account all heat-conducting inclusions, will be given below, but the fact that they will differ from the original calculations is confirmed by the results of thermal imaging.
| Figure 2. Thermal imaging of the 1st floor |
| Figure 3. Thermal imaging of the 2nd floor |
The photographs below clearly demonstrate heat-conducting inclusions (the so-called thermal bridges) through the floor slabs, plinth and façade-to-roof interfaces, as well as violations of construction technology.
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Figure 4. |
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The situation is well explained by the results of testing the thermal homogeneity of two-layer walls, conducted by experts from St. Petersburg A. S. Gorshkov, P. P. Rymkevich and N. I. Vatin. They calculated the reduced resistance to heat transfer of the outer walls of a typical multi-apartment residential building with a structural monolithic-frame scheme and two-layer walls made of aerated concrete with an outer facing layer of brick in St. Petersburg. The obtained value of 1.81 m2•°C/W does not correspond not only to the required 3.08 m2•°C/W, but even to the minimum allowable regulatory requirements of 1.94 m2•°C/W. Researchers explain the differences in the coefficients of thermal engineering homogeneity by the differences in the design solutions used in the project, the quantitative and qualitative composition of heat-conducting inclusions, taking into account their geometric shape. That is, all the so-called cold bridges that are present in the project are taken into account: the type and material of fasteners, floor slabs, joints, frames and adjoining walls and windows, and so on. A fairly common case is when the thermal inhomogeneity of a wall structure on a real object is even lower than the calculated one, because it depends on the quality of installation: the presence of cracks, breaks, potholes and other defects in aerated concrete products can lead to overspending of the mortar, which acts as an additional heat-conducting inclusion, not taken into account in the calculation.
| Figure 5. Structural solution of the outer two-layer wall |
As a result, we find that the actual thermal uniformity coefficient is significantly less than the calculated value. The difference can be up to 47%. The reduced resistance to heat transfer of such structures can be less than the standard value up to 70%, which requires either increasing the thickness of aerated concrete blocks as part of a two-layer wall structure, or using an intermediate layer of heat-insulating materials.
| Figure 6. Schemes of calculated fragments of the outer two-layer wall |
“The test results show that the coefficient of thermal engineering uniformity of 0.9 for walls made of aerated concrete and brick, which is laid down during the design, is overestimated in many cases. In addition, designers use unreasonable values of the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete, – Alexander Pleshkin comments. – In fact, this design does not provide the necessary thermal resistance of the walls. It is possible to create a comfortable microclimate, reduce utility bills and increase the durability of walls made of aerated concrete and brick, thanks to the inclusion of thermal insulation between the aerated concrete and the front (facing) layers. When choosing a heat-insulating material for structures of this kind, special attention must be paid to the value of resistance to vapor permeation. It should be at least an order of magnitude less than the resistance to vapor permeability of the bearing layer of the outer wall. Insulation of an aerated concrete wall is economically justified and beneficial compared to an increase in the thickness of an aerated concrete wall, with an increase in which the foundation is additionally loaded and the usable area of the premises is reduced.
Humidity – does it matter?
I would like to separately note the topics of thermal conductivity and humidity of aerated concrete products, which are strong absorbents of moisture, that is, they can absorb a significant amount of water.
“Their actual humidity in the initial period of operation can significantly exceed the calculated one, this is due not only to the process of production, transportation and storage of the material, but also to the wet processes that occur in the house during its construction – pouring the screed, leveling the walls, and so on. In this regard, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete products may turn out to be higher compared to the calculated values accepted in the project, since the thermal conductivity of the material depends on the moisture content. It is difficult to predict the number of years after which the house will “come out” to design indicators. This will depend on the climate, the operating conditions of the room and the constructive solution of the wall – the presence of a ventilation gap and correctly selected insulating layers in terms of vapor permeability. With a well-designed and executed structure, the output to the operating mode of such a structure should not exceed one or two years, ”comments Alexander Pleshkin.
Close attention should be paid to the issue of testing the thermal conductivity coefficients of aerated concrete, namely, to the humidity conditions under which the tests are carried out.
The thermal conductivity index is determined according to GOST 7076-99 “MATERIALS AND BUILDING PRODUCTS. Method for determining thermal conductivity and thermal resistance in a stationary thermal regime. In this document, calculations are carried out for the material in a dry state; it is not regulated at what weight moisture content of the material it is necessary to conduct tests. Some manufacturers of aerated concrete conduct tests for the thermal conductivity of the material referring to GOST 31359-2007 “Autoclaved cellular concrete”, which indicates the values of weight moisture at which measurements are made: for conditions “A” weight moisture is 4%, for conditions “B” – 5%.
According to SP 23-101-2004 “Design of thermal protection of buildings” Appendix D (or SP 50.13330.2012 “Thermal protection of buildings”, Appendix T), the weight moisture content of aerated concrete significantly exceeds the values of GOST 31359-2007: for gas and foam concrete density 1200; 1000 ;800 weight moisture is: 15% for conditions “A” and 22% for conditions “B”.
The calculated coefficient of thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is significantly underestimated compared to the actual one. This fact is connected not only with the peculiarities of using the material in conditions of humidity, but also with the very method of testing the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete – the humidity during the tests was reduced by 3. 75 – 4.4 times.
Such a difference in moisture values indicates that after the construction of the structure, aerated concrete over a certain period of time reaches the normalized values of equilibrium weight moisture, which is significantly higher than that at which the thermal conductivity of the material is tested.
As a result, the actual value of the heat transfer resistance of the building does not match the calculated one. This fact indicates a decrease in the energy efficiency of the building and an increase in operating costs for heating and air conditioning.
“Thus, with the help of aerated concrete and brick, it is quite possible to create a respectable, warm and durable house,” sums up Alexander Pleshkin. “But only with strict observance of the technology for designing the thermal envelope of a building, taking into account all heat-conducting inclusions, correct indicators of the moisture content of aerated concrete, which it will acquire during operation, and also with the obligatory presence of a heat-insulating layer and a ventilation gap. ”
Masonry technology. Main types of exterior wall structures
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1. Technology of masonry work
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2. The main types of structures of external walls
Single-layer wall
Double-layer wall with facing brick
Double-layer wall with external insulation and plaster finishing
Three-layer wall with facing brick
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2
3. Single layer wall
We recommend using blocks 9 for this construction0021 with a thickness of at least 380 mm, namely
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Porotherm 51
Porotherm 51 GL
Porotherm 44
Porotherm 44GL
Porotherm 38
3
4.
Two -layer of the Kirnoye Kirnoye Kirnoye City use blocks
with a thickness of at least 380 mm, namely
Porotherm 51
Porotherm 51 GL
Porotherm 44
Porotherm 44GL
Porotherm 38
Porotherm 38GL
0021 is filled with mortar.
P 13.15 In two-layer walls of external walls, the gap between
layers must be filled with masonry mortar.
“SP 327.1325800.2017. Set of rules. External walls with a front brick layer
. Rules for design, operation and repair
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blocks with a thickness not exceeding 380 mm, namely
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7. Basic requirements for
The thickness of the bed joint for Porotherm units is 12mm – based on
231mm height module used in construction and nominal height of
POROTHERM units of 219mm.
Ligation of vertical joints for uniform load transfer
Vertical joints are connected dry without mortar into the tongue-and-groove system
When constructing a wall with a ventilated air gap, it is mandatory to
coat vertical joints from the outside with masonry mortar or
surface plastering
Mandatory protection of the surface of the blocks from the inside with a plaster layer
not less than 10 mm
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to avoid “overloading” the masonry on the mortar, not
which has reached the design strength. When determining the appropriate
masonry height, the thickness of the wall, the type of
mortar, the degree of exposure of the structure to wind and
the convenience of performing work by a bricklayer (1.0÷1.2 m).
It is possible to support building elements on fresh masonry at the age of
3 days.
Pillars made of large-format ceramic stones and
pilasters for supporting trusses and beams are not recommended.
The size of the piers must be at least 750 mm. For buildings 2-3
floors – 500 mm.
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9. Requirements for deviations
Deviation of elements in stone structures from
large-format ceramic stones from the design position is not
must exceed the values specified in the table. Per 10 m
± 10 mm
± 15 mm
Thickness
Individual wall layer
Entire multi-layer (with voids)
wall
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± 15 mm
± 15 mm
9
10. Substrate preparation
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The base for large-format stonework
must be solid, even and dry.
The leveling of the base is carried out with a cement-sand mortar, starting from the highest place
of the base surface.
The first row of blocks should be at 0.5m from
ground level.
The use of large-format stones in the basement zone
is possible only with the installation of vertical waterproofing
.
10
11. Laying waterproofing
The first row of blocks is laid on a layer of waterproofing
roll, which is 10 cm wider than the block
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12. Laying the first row
The laying begins with a corner brick, which is laid directly in the
masonry layer. Corner blocks are installed to a height of 3 rows in compliance with the
principle of dressing vertical seams.
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0021 with tensioned masonry cord (nylon). The cord is freely stretched along the entire
length.
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14. Laying blocks
Correct
Incorrect
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rubber hammer.
It is not allowed to lay stones back to back;0021 connection.
14
15. Laying blocks
The required fittings are cut and the cut vertical joints in the
brickwork are filled with mortar.
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16. Installation of additional blocks
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17. How to cut
sawing)
• Alligator 9 Handheld Electric Saw0021 04/06/2020
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18. Creating a dressing
One of the most important static characteristics of masonry is its dressing. When erecting a
wall or abutment, the rows of bricks must be tied together so that the wall or abutment behaves like one
structural element. For proper bonding of masonry, vertical joints between individual
bricks in two adjacent rows must be shifted by at least 0.4 x h, where h is
the nominal height of the brick. For POROTHERM brick blocks height 219mm minimum
bonding spacing is 87 mm, which is approximately 30% of the width of the
block The recommended horizontal building module of 250 x 250 mm gives a bonding spacing of 125 mm for
POROTHERM blocks. How to carry out such a ligation in practice,
demonstrate the schematic drawings in the section “Design and erection of masonry from
POROTHERM ceramic blocks”.
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19
20. Rules for creating a bandage in corners
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20
21. Rules for creating a bandage in corners
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21
22. Rules for creating a bandage in corners 904/20106
22
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23
24. DOSTOVING Wall
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25. DOSTOVING Wall
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26. DOSTOVING OF THE CALTH
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27. Rules for laying ceramic lintels
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28. Pitched roof assembly
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29. Floor slab support
mortar with a thickness of
30 mm, reinforced with a mesh of rods
with a diameter of 4 mm with a cell size of 50 50
mm wide for the entire thickness of the wall.
3 spacers allowed
rows of full-bodied ceramic
bricks 1NF of the corresponding brand (with
upper bond row).
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30. Bending of the floor slabs
31. Horizontal channels for wiring
PAZ
Strength
walls, mm
PAZ
PAZ length up to 1.25 m
unlimited
(distance to
of the length
opening not less than 490mm)
≥115
–
≥175
–
≤25
≥240
≤15
≤25
≥300
≤20
≤30
Horizontal grooves are made:
• only in the area up to 0.4 m from the bottom and top
floor
• only on one side of the wall
32. Vertical channels for wiring
Groove dimensions
Wall thickness
, mm
depth
Width of one
groove
total width
grooves per 2 m
walls
≥115
≤10
≤100
≤100
≥175
≤30
≤100
≤260
≥240
≤30
385
≥300
≤30
≤200
≤385
33.
Tool for trimming
34. Window installation
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35. Archika window or opening
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Used slider
04/201/201/201/201/201/201/20 36
37. Calculation of the number of blocks
1.
Calculate the total area
of the walls
S=P*H,
where P is the perimeter of the building,
H is the height to the cornice
2. Calculate the area of the openings
S’ = n1*S1 + n2 * S2 + …
3. Area minus
openings
Stot = S-S’
Example:
P = 2*10+2*6=32m,
S = 32*6 = 192m²;
S’ = 8*1.5*1.5 = 18 m²; Stot. = 192 – 18 = 174 m²
174 * 17.3 = 3011 pcs.
38. How to calculate the number of additional elements
For window and door openings:
1. Calculate the length of all vertical door and window slopes
2. Divide the length by 2 and divide by the height of the row of blocks, taking into account
mortar joint – 0.231m.
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39.
How to calculate the number of pieces per 1 m3 of masonry
1. Calculate the volume of 1 product, taking into account the mortar joint
2. Divide 1m3 by the volume of the product, taking into account the mortar joint
Example:
V51 =0.51*0.25*(0.219+0.012)=0.0294525 m3
N51= 1/ V51=1/0.0294525=33.95 pcs/m3
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40. How to calculate the demand for warm mortar
1. Calculate the area of the outer walls. The number of ordered blocks
divided by the number of blocks in 1 m2
2. Multiply by the consumption of the solution per 1 m2 in l. We get the total volume of the required
amount of solution
3. Divide the total volume by the volume of solution in 1 bag. We get the total number of bags
4. Divide the total number of bags by the number of bags on the pallet.
Get the number of pallets required by the customer
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English
Russian
Rules
Lightweight wall structures
When building low-rise cottages, it is advisable to use lightweight wall structures. These can be layered masonry systems in which bricks or stone blocks perform the supporting function, and foam concrete or other porous materials are used for insulation. Solid types of masonry made of lightweight material are also used: hollow bricks, porous blocks, expanded clay concrete and cellular concrete blocks. Recently, wall structures with non-removable light porous formwork have been increasingly used, for example, a system with polystyrene foam blocks.
Such lightweight walls can significantly reduce the load on the foundation, increase the heat-saving capacity of the house with a minimum wall thickness, the entire structure becomes less expensive and labor intensity of construction is reduced compared to solid masonry of solid brick or stone.
- 1. Lightweight two-layer masonry
- 2. Lightweight three-layer construction
- 3. Lightweight foam block masonry
- 4. Lightweight porous ceramic block masonry
- 5. Cast walls with permanent plastic formwork
1.
Lightweight two-layer masonry: outer layer of brick, inner layer of foam concrete blocks
Lightweight two-layer construction of brick and foam block
foam concrete blocks are placed indented. If we choose blocks with a size of 175 mm, then there are five bricks for two blocks in height, and if the block size is 250 mm, then seven bricks. Brick and foam concrete layers are interconnected by metal meshes. At the top, the walls are reinforced with armored belts. Depending on the climatic conditions, the brick layer on the outside can be insulated with porous polymer boards, and if this is not necessary, then face or textured bricks can be used.
2. Lightweight three-layer structure: outer layer of brick, layer of foam concrete blocks, inner layer of brick
Lightweight three-layer structure: brick – foam block – brick
This design is more durable than the first option. Bricks on the outside can be front (textured), on the inside – ordinary. Everything else is done by analogy with the previous option.
3. Lightweight foam block masonry
For a one-story house, it is possible to make a continuous laying of walls from foam concrete blocks. This material is light, well processed, it is convenient to work with it. For masonry, both cement mortar (1: 3) and special glue can be used, the thickness of the seam in this case is 2 … 3 mm.
An example of a house built from foam concrete blocks
Foam concrete is a rather fragile material, so all openings are reinforced with a metal profile, and at the top of the walls are reinforced with a concrete armored belt. When laying the blocks, you can use a rubber mallet, the blocks are wetted with water for better connection with the solution. Outside, walls made of foam blocks can be finished with decorative plaster, tiles, facing bricks.
4.
Lightweight porous ceramic block masonry
Porous ceramic block masonry is a very good option in terms of price – quality – labor intensity of the process. Despite its lightness, this material is very durable (up to M150), has high frost resistance and heat-saving properties. Masonry can be done in one row of blocks, 250 mm thick. To reduce the thermal conductivity of the wall, it is advisable to use a lime-cement mortar or a special adhesive.
An example of laying porous ceramic blocks
Vertical joints can be omitted, or made only in corner joints, since the blocks are tightly interlocked with a special lock with protrusions and depressions (tongue-and-groove lock). A wall of porous blocks can, if desired, be finished with decorative plaster or tiles; this material does not need additional insulation. It should also be borne in mind that porous blocks are very fragile, so they require very careful handling.
5. Cast walls with non-removable polymer formwork
Lightweight wall structures can also include cast walls with non-removable porous polymer formwork, since less concrete is used than when casting in the usual way.