Bricks on a wall: 500+ Brick Wall Pictures & Images [HD]

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500+ Brick Wall Pictures & Images [HD]

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Make something awesome

How to Hang Something from a Brick Wall.

There is only 1 thing more terrifying to a homeowner than drilling into brick: drilling into drywall. Hanging something on brick shouldn’t give you a stress twitch – you have two options, and both of them are easy.

If you’re looking for how to hang something on drywall you should read this post.

One of the scariest things for homeowners is drilling into things: drywall, studs, cupboards doors, teeth.

If you have something you want to hang on brick you’re going to have to get over this phobia and just do it. If you’re worried about putting holes in your drywall because you think they’re there forever, they aren’t. Here’s how to easily fix holes in drywall. And you can patch holes in brick as well.

Honestly hanging stuff off of brick is not a big deal. You CAN hang that flatscreen tv mount over your fireplace (if you have a real wood burning fireplace like I do, you also have a real brick chimney above the fireplace.) Dealing with hiding the cable is another story.

Take a deep breath and calm the hell down. You can do this. Remember that time you made it through the worst stomach flu ever where you had to sit on the toilet AND hold a trash can in front of you??? You made it through that, you’ll make it through this.

So today … I’m gonna teach you how to DIY drill into brick. 

You can hang something on a brick wall in about 39 seconds as long as you have a masonry bit, an anchor screw and a drill.

You’re not pulling your own teeth here, you’re just drilling a hole. You’ll be fine.

Need a video tutorial for some convincing?  Here you go. It’s stars me and my chickens.

Slightly off topic, but since getting chickens 10 years ago I’ve spent a lot of time developing a really good DIY fly trap that actually works. So if have fly issues click on that link and learn how to make a homemade trap, what kind of bait to use etc. etc.

I have a lot of brick walls in my house. It’s a red brick Ontario cottage that’s been added onto several times over the years, most recently in about 1910. That means a lot of my interior walls are brick because they used to be the exterior walls.

Therefore – I’m loaded up with inside and outside brick wall experience and the problems they pose.

I painted some of my interior brick walls and that took a lot more courage on my part than drilling into them ever has. Mainly because sandblasting an interior brick wall to get rid of the paint is a more terrifying nightmare than filling a little drill hole.

If that’s a fear of yours then you should read about restoring original brick without sandblasting or stripping. They used this technique on a big heritage building in my town and it was amazing.

To screw into brick there are only two things you need. Screw anchors for concrete ( Walldog, Tapcon, concrete screw, or screw anchors are all types of masonry screws) and a masonry drill bit. Those are the absolute basics.

Table of Contents

Tools Needed

For light duty

  • Regular drill
  • 3/16th anchor screws
  • 5/32 masonry drill bit
  • Screwdriver (optional)

For heavy duty

  • Hammer drill
  • Concrete bolts or concrete anchors and bolts
  • Corresponding masonry drill bit
  • Socket set or socket bit for drill

The anchor screw looks like a regular screw, and it is … but it also has an extra set of raised threads that help it cut and grip into very hard material like brick or concrete.

A masonry drill bit is a regular old drill bit that’s made of steel with a special tip on the end that’s made of tungsten carbide.  If you’re at home and you don’t know if what you have is a masonry drill bit just look at the end of it.  If it has a a sharp arrow like tip on it … that’s a masonry bit.

Technically they work best with a hammer drill but if you only have a regular drill it’ll work fine, it’ll just take a tiny bit longer to drill through the concrete or brick.

Deciding Where to Drill

Into the brick or the mortar?

It’s easier to drill into the mortar than it is into the brick because the mortar is softer, but sometimes the grout just isn’t where you need your hole.  

So you can drill straight into brick too, it will just take you a bit longer and dull your bit quicker.

If you’re going to hang something heavy plan on drilling into the brick because it’s stronger and more dense.

Old (pre 1900 or so) mortar is soft and not as strong by design. Historic homes in particular have red clay brick that was fired in a coal oven. This type of brick is generally soft and expands, contracts, absorbs and releases moisture throughout the seasons, which means the mortar has to be even softer to allow for the bricks’ movement and moisture release.

Electrical Wires

Before you drill make sure there isn’t a chance of electrical wires or obstacles in the way. For instance, get rid of any livestock that might be wandering around. Like chickens. Chickens are notoriously sneaky obstacles.

Check the Brick

Take a look at the brick you’re drilling into. You want new brick that’s in good condition or old brick in the same condition. Don’t drill into a brick that’s showing signs of distress in case you crack it or it crumbles.

Using the Right Drill

Standard vs. Hammer drill

A standard drill like you have at home is all you’ll need if you’re hanging a television over your fireplace or attaching a hammock to the outside wall of your house. If you’re using a masonry bit it will penetrate brick or mortar.

A hammer drill is what’s necessary if your job requires drilling bigger holes or into very hard materials like natural stone and some concrete.

Electric or Corded Drill

For most jobs you can just use a regular drill like you have at home. Corded or battery is fine. It’s only when you get into very hard materials like stone that you could burn out the motor on your home drill and might need to upgrade to a strong industrial drill (you can rent a drill like this by the hour or day.) Renting a drill will cost you about $50 a day but you can rent them for half a day as well.

Hammer Drill

A hammer driver is a drill that doesn’t only spin, like a regular drill does, it also bangs up and down like a hammer. So you get twice as much force with a hammer drill because the drill is working in two separate ways to drill: by rotating and by pounding.

There are two types of hammering drills: rotary and standard.

Standard hammering drill are used for drilling ½” holes or less.

Rotary hammer drills are needed if your holes are going to be bigger than ½”.

If you’re going to buy a hammer drill, but you didn’t even know what one was until you just read about it in the blurb up there, don’t go out and buy a $200 hammer drill. You’re not going to need it and chances are it’ll be really heavy to hold. Just get a cute little one like this and it’ll do what you need.

The Screwdriver

A screwdriver can come in handy if you need to tighten or loosen just a tiny bit. For women a large drill, especially if you’re holding it up high, can get heavy. If that’s the case, ditch the drill once you have your pilot hole drilled and just use the screwdriver for screwing in the anchor/screw.

Choosing the Proper Drill Size and Bit

  1. You need to use a drill bit that’s a size or two smaller than your anchor screw, otherwise your hole will be too big and your screw will just slide right in.

For example, I used a 3/16th screw with a 5/32 drill bit, which is 2 sizes down in a standard bit kit.

So REMEMBER to drill your pilot hole smaller than the anchor or screw you are using.

You can get all of this stuff from regular hardware stores, it may seem like weird stuff but it’s actually pretty regular.

2. If your anchor is going to be quite big, requiring a big hole, then drill an initial pilot hole first. This hole will act as a guide for your larger drill bit making it easier to drill straight in and stop it from taking off on an angle.

A Special Announcement about Torque

Firstly, what the hell is torque?

Torque is a measurement of force. On a drill, a low number means low force. A high number means high force. For drilling small things you only need low force. For drilling larger things you need high force.

Think of torque like muscles or strength.

Every drill has a dial around the muzzle of it with numbers on it. This dial can be spun around to adjust the drill’s clutch (torque.) As far as I can tell only 5 people in the world actually understand how to use this torque dial. So here’s the deal in a nutshell …

  • Torque can be adjusted from 1-10. Some drills go from 1-20.
  • The smaller the bit or screw you are driving in, the smaller the number you want to use.
  • The larger the bit or screw, the larger the number you want to use.
  • To adjust the torque/clutch start low then progressively go up. Using too high of a torque can cause too much resistance and the clutch will automatically disengage the motor. This in turn can come as a bit of a shock to your wrist causing torn ligaments or muscles. Rare, yes. But possible.

Steps for How to Drill

  1. Mark the spot you want to drill with a pencil or chalk. You can also use a centre punch.
  2. Measure the length of your anchor/screw.
  3. Mark that length onto your drill bit with a Sharpie to act as a depth gauge. This mark will let you know when you’re at the appropriate drilling depth and stop you from drilling too deep. You can also buy a bit stopper that gets attached to your bit making it impossible to drill too deep.
  4. Slap your safety gear on. (ear muffs, goggles, etc.)
  5. Drill a pilot hole if needed.
  6. Drill into your marked area with the drill held perpendicular to the wall. Go straight in, don’t waver, using medium pressure.
  7. If the bit heats up stop drilling and let it cool. Dip the bit in cool water (not cold water) if you want to speed up the process.
  8. Use compressed air to clean the hole out.
  9. For light duty screw in the masonry screw with a screwdriver. For heavy duty drop in the masonry anchor and insert the bolt using a socket set or bit.
  10. Clean up any dust or brick chips, pack up your tools and hang that thing (whatever it is you planned on mounting) on the brick wall!

Sealing Holes

If it took you a few shots to get your anchor in the right place you’ll need to fill the holes left behind. If you don’t, water can build up and when it freezes the water will expand, cracking the brick.

To patch or seal a hole you’ll need some putty and a few other things.

Materials

  • Powdered or pre-mixed mortar/putty
  • Trowel (or even just a popsicle stick for small holes)
  • Water
  • Compressed air
  • Brick colouring powder (for filling holes in brick)
  1. Using a can of compressed air or a standard compressor blow the hole clean.
  2. Mix the mortar with water if you need to. If you’re repairing a hole in brick tint the mortar with brick coloured powder until you have a match.
  3. If you have an extra brick you can also smash that brick up into a powder and add it to your mortar for an almost exact match.
  4. Saturate the hole with water using a hose or a spray bottle.
  5. Push the mortar to the hole using a mason trowel or a popsicle stick for smaller holes. Make sure the hole is full with no air pockets.
  6. Scrape mortar on the face of the brick away so it’s flush.
  7. Add some texture to any showing mortar using your trowel tip or popsicle stick so it matches the brick. You can also use another brick to press in the mortar patch to create the right texture.

Drilling & Hanging Tips

Don’t drill too deep

  1. You risk cracking the brick.
  2. A hole that’s much deeper than your anchor will weaken it.
  3. If you have to go back and fill a hole, deep ones are harder to fill.

Go slowly

  1. Let the tool do the work. Pushing and trying to manhandle the drill into submission will just result in your drill getting stuck in the hole. And yes. A yes a drill can definitely get stuck. I’ve lost drill bits to walls when they get stuck and there was absolutely NO getting them out.

2. If your bit *does* get stuck while you’re drilling in, reverse the drill out.

Choose the right anchor (if using one)

  • I like to use metal anchors but you can use plastic expansion-style anchors in mortar. Just make sure you get the right size. Screw expansion plugs work by expanding once they’re in the drilled hole and gripping there. They’re good to use in mortar because they push against the surrounding brick giving the fastener (anchor) better strength.
  • A drop in anchor and bolt for solid walls works really well. I’ve used them on quite a few of my interior and exterior walls.

Like this.

Safety Tips

Wear safety glasses.

Nobody thinks an eye patch is sexy. Wear safety glasses or even better safety goggles (goggles don’t allow anything to come in contact with your eyes, whereas with glasses fragments can make their way into your eye area from the top or sides.)

Wear a mask.

Drilling into brick and concrete can release silica. It’s a natural material found in everything from rocks to concrete. It’s also in bricks and mortar.

Silica particles as small as 0.5 mm and as large as 5mm won’t expel from your lungs. They just build up over time which can eventually lead to fibrosis of the lungs and silicosis disease.

Drilling once in an open area without a mask probably isn’t going to damage your lungs. But doing so repeatedly will.

So wear your mask/respirator when you’re drilling.

Gloves

Gloves are hard to work in sometimes, I know. But if you have a pair you can work in, wear them.

The drill bit can get hot after all that spinning and friction. Hot enough to burn your hands if you try to remove them right after drilling. So when removing the bit either wait for the bit to cool down or wear gloves and say a prayer. And have Aloe handy.

Ear muffs (or plugs)

It’s loud. Wear ear protection.

Alternatives to Drilling

You can also use brick clips for hanging lightweight objects on a brick wall.

How much weight you can hang from them will depend on how well they fit your bricks. If they fit well and are nice and tight you can hang up to 25 lbs from one.

I’ve bullied these into place on my almost 200 year old brick. I wouldn’t want to hang anything heavy off of them but they’d be perfectly fine for hanging a wreath or something like that.

But remember, that brick hangers work best on newer, symmetrical, standard bricks.

Can I use a regular drill to drill into brick?

You absolutely can. A regular drill will drill through brick just fine. A hammer drill will make the job easier, but a regular drill will and can get the job done.

Can I screw directly into brick?

You bet you can. You just need to use a masonry screw and drill an initial hole with a masonry bit first.

How do I prevent the brick from cracking?

Drilling a pilot hole and not drilling too deep will help prevent cracking.

How do I drill without a hammer drill?

For brick and mortar a hammer drill isn’t necessary. It helps, yes, but you can absolutely drill into either of those materials with a regular drill.

Do I need an anchor to hang something?

Nope. If you’re hanging something less than 650 pounds a Tapcon should work just fine. To use a Tapcon you simply drill a hole 1 size smaller than the Tapcon screw and then screw it directly into the hole.

How heavy of an object can I hang?

It all depends on the screw or anchor you use. Check the packaging to see the load your anchor can handle. It’s probably more than you think. A small Tapcon inserted 1″ into brick can hold 650 lbs.

Can I use an impact driver?

An impact driver is a bit of a weirdo in the drill family. An impact driver doesn’t rotate like a regular drill and it doesn’t hammer up and down like a hammer drill. 

So how does it work to drive things into hard surfaces? It uses concussive force to pound from the side.

Because an impact driver works with side force, it isn’t a good choice for drilling holes into anything. The side force of the pounding creates oblong holes, not round ones. This means any screws or anchors you try to set into the hole won’t work properly.

An impact driver *is* a good choice for driving long screws into wood, it just isn’t a good choice for this project of drilling into brick.  

Honestly. Don’t worry about it and go ahead and try. It’s just a brick wall, not a molar. It won’t hurt a bit.

→Follow me on Instagram where I often make a fool of myself←

Do-it-yourself brick wall from plaster: how to make an imitation of a brick

How to make a brick wall in an apartment:

From plaster

  • Marking
  • Mortar preparation and application
  • Shape correction
  • Painting

Foam

  • Marking
  • Installation
  • Painting and decoration

Tile

  • Flexible clinker
  • Hard materials

Decorating Tips

Do-it-yourself brick wall made of plaster is the most popular way of decorating, but far from the only one. Let’s take a closer look at each one, shall we?

  • Inexpensive way. Such coverage does not require financial investments.
  • Eco friendly. The plaster does not contain harmful impurities.
  • Uncomplicated. It does not require special skills and tools. Just a little care and patience.

Marking

Before starting the main work, it is necessary to prepare the surface – remove the old finish. If it is not even, level with plaster and cover with a primer. Another option is to use drywall, this is a dry leveling method. However, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small, this method is unlikely to work, because the sheets will “eat up” the space.

Please note: if the apartment is in a new building, you can start decorating the room no earlier than 1 year after the delivery of the house. Otherwise, the walls may shrink and cracks form.

Unsplash

After the surface is prepared for work, you can start marking. And there are two options here.

Pery: in some construction stores they sell a ready-made mesh form, this method is simpler, but also more expensive. Second: self markup. How to make an imitation of a brick wall with your own hands?

  • The standard brick size is 250 mm x 65 mm, the size of the joints is about 15 mm, although this is not essential, and they can of course be changed.
  • Cut out a cardboard brick with seams on the sides.
  • Mark the center of the brick, also considering the seams. You should get a blank as in the photo below.

Marking starts from the left corner. Provide for indents from the ceiling and floor in advance – at least 5 cm. First, you can mark the area according to the grid principle, marking the grid, and then draw half the brick through the row. Circle the resulting stones, and you will have a standard brickwork.

It is convenient to use masking tape 15 mm thick. Glue the jumpers with an overlap, be sure to leave “tails” at the edges so that later the tape can be easily removed.

If you forgot about the primer at the processing stage, it can be applied directly over the tape now.

Mortar preparation and application

You will need the following tools:

  • Mixing container;
  • Wide, narrow spatula;
  • Gloves, oilcloth.

The most reliable mortar is gypsum plaster and tile adhesive. You can knead it with a special nozzle on a drill (mixer) or manually. What is important to consider? If there is no experience in repair work, do not knead a large amount of the mixture at once. If you don’t have time to apply it, it will dry out.

Pexels

Plaster can be applied with a spatula or by hand. But it is better to level the solution with a wide spatula in an upward direction.

You need to tear off the adhesive tape immediately, without waiting for the plaster to completely harden! Otherwise, later it will be impossible.

Correction of the shape

To make the imitation of a brick wall look natural with your own hands, you need to slightly correct it. This is true if you did not level the surface before removing the adhesive tape.

When the bricks have hardened, you can go over them again with sandpaper or, for example, make neat small chips. The texture of the surface depends only on your wishes.

Instagram @stone__spirit

Painting

Before applying paint, the surface must be prepared: walk with a dry brush, remove dust not only from the stones, but also from the gaps.

Then comes the primer. Here it is also important not to forget about the gaps. After that, start painting.

Only stones can be painted, and the seams can be left as they are. Or paint over the seams. In this case, be careful, take a thin brush so as not to stain the brick if the paint is contrasting. It is advisable to choose one that can be washed. Especially if you are remodeling your kitchen. One of the suitable options is the usual water emulsion.

By the way, instead of plaster, you can take gypsum putty, the principle of operation will be the same.

  • This imitation adheres well to the wall.
  • Styrofoam is easy to cut and handle.
  • It does not generate dust, which is important for interior work.
  • Cheaper than plaster.
  • The main disadvantage: low impact resistance, it is easily crumpled and broken upon impact.

In this case, it is better to purchase dense foam with fine grain, it does not break or crumble when cutting.

It is most convenient to use liquid nails as glue for single bricks, and mounting foam for a solid sheet.

Pexels

Marking

How to make the imitation of brickwork on the wall as natural as possible? There are two ways to create such a masonry.

Individual elements

The size of the bricks is exactly the same – 250 mm x 60 mm. If you have a sheet of expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) in front of you, then the optimal width of one product is about 12 mm.
The material is easy to cut with an ordinary construction knife with a sharp blade. In this case, each detail will have its own texture.

Sheet

Instead of individual bricks, you can make a decorative sheet that imitates masonry. Since the foam melts easily, a soldering iron is used for this. They are carried out at the seams, controlling the depth of pressing. Be especially careful with the corners – they should be even, without roundings and bevels.

I must say that this method is suitable for those who are already familiar with the material; It’s unlikely to be perfect the first time. Need to practice.

When burning, be sure to wear a mask and ventilate the room well! Styrofoam emits harmful fumes when melted.

Instagram @muravina_designer

Laying

Start laying the bricks always from the corner, then lay the door and window openings.

Can be attached directly to the wall using liquid nails, or to a sheet of drywall or plywood. Subsequently, such a sheet can be fixed on self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, since the sheet lies on the floor, the work is carried out on a horizontal surface.

Painting and decoration

Some leave the texture of the foam, while others cover it with putty – to give a special structure to the stone.

In any case, the material must be primed before painting. Carefully choose the paint, it can ruin the polystyrene foam. Suitable paints without solvents, for example, water-based. The result can be fixed with matte acrylic varnish.

Learn more about making foam bricks in the video below.

Today, you can find several options for tiles in the hardware store. This is not only standard ceramic, but also modern soft – elastic clinker based on polyacrylic.

Working with flexible clinker

  • Very flexible material, adheres to any surface, bends even around sharp corners.
  • Easy to cut with long scissors, can be cut into any shape.
  • UV and frost resistant, non-fading, breathable.
  • Suitable for both interior decoration and house facades.

Instagram @klinker05

Surface preparation in this case is the same: it is leveled and primed. The difference is in the materials used. Most often, clinker is planted on tile adhesive, but the seller may advise you to purchase a special one from the manufacturer. Such a composition will make the tile more stable and solid.

  1. First, rows are marked with a simple pencil and ruler.
  2. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel, a layer of 2-3 mm is sufficient. No need to completely cover the entire area! Fill in small areas so that the adhesive does not have time to dry.
  3. Apply the tile carefully, without applying too much pressure. Making half a brick is easy, just cut it with scissors.
  4. After the main stage is completed, the adhesive on the seams is leveled with a thin brush slightly moistened with water.
  5. Flexible clinker does not require the use of grout. This is an undoubted advantage of the material.

Pexels

Features of hard materials

  • Rigid gypsum tiles are cheaper than analogues. However, its main disadvantage is that it is not at all resistant to moisture, so it cannot be laid in rooms with an aggressive environment, for example, in a bathroom, in a kitchen. However, there are also products with a protective coating.
  • Another type – from cement. Inexpensive yet durable, it is often used to create both indoor and outdoor decor. Interestingly, you can even make it yourself. The solution is simply poured into a special form.
  • Finally, the third type is clinker tiles. It has the highest performance characteristics, but the price is appropriate. It is rarely purchased for interior decoration.

Instagram @shedarchitecture

Mounting

Working with rigid material is similar to working with elastic material. The main difference is that solid bricks will have to be cut, and one cannot do without the appropriate tools. You will need a circular saw or grinder with a disc.

In addition, the joints must be grouted with a special compound after installation. This must be done very carefully so as not to get on the stones, because it is difficult to wipe it off.

In general, if you have experience in laying tiles, there will be no problems.

Pexels

The more light hits a brick wall, the more natural and natural it should look. An illuminated decorative brick wall attracts attention, and if done carelessly or poorly, it reduces the cost of the interior.

Choose a color based on the overall gamut of the room. Standard terracotta is suitable for warm interiors, cold gray – for more brutal ones. By the way, it is better to add a little ocher to neutral white, so it will not seem flat and lifeless.

Prepared by

Anastasia Khripunkova

5 tricks, a few techniques and examples – Roomble.

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2021-11-18T12:33:12+00:00
2021-11-18T12:58:12+00:00
Brick wall decoration: 5 tricks, a few techniques and examples
2021-11-18T12:33:12+00:00
The brick wall in the interior is fashionable and very stylish. But what if your apartment is not a loft at all? Even if your house is made of wood, there are several ways to imitate brick so that no one will notice the difference.
Brick wall decoration: 5 tricks, a few techniques and examples

A brick wall in the interior is fashionable and very stylish. But what if your apartment is not a loft at all? Even if your house is made of wood, there are several ways to imitate brick so that no one will notice the difference. and now the interior has become warm, mysterious and very stylish. In reality, if you decide to do this in a city apartment, it is impossible to assume that you will find under the top layer of paint and finish – noble brick or concrete, tow and holes leading to the neighbors. Why not just try to pretend that one of the walls is brick? It’s simple, there are several interesting ways, and the result will surprise you.

Thanks to modern digital printing technologies, wallpaper manufacturers have learned to imitate the main thing – the texture of bricks and the special rhythm of masonry. Bricks can even be rough to the touch and look chipped, cracked by weather and time. The thickness of the wall will not change even a centimeter. There is only one problem – the volume and uneven surface of the wallpaper cannot be depicted one hundred percent reliably. But if you do not consider the interior with a magnifying glass, the effect is beautiful. In addition, this is the most cost-effective option.

So, if the task is to depict the uneven surface of a brick wall, but at the same time use a material that is somewhat softer and lighter than burnt clay, then foam plastic comes to our aid quite unexpectedly. This is how we call the class of materials made of foamed plastics, including expanded polystyrene, for example. It’s easier to say this: you can find it in large boxes from under furniture and household appliances, it protects it from damage. Another option is ceiling panels, which are smoother and denser, less loose. It’s simple: cut out the bricks, fix with tile glue, sandpaper to give texture, and paint in the desired color.

Our opinion:

– It is better to make the block size as close as possible to the real standard parameters of red brick – this is 240 by 115 millimeters. Leave the gap between the “bricks” small, 1-1.2 millimeters – it can be painted in a different tone. Before painting the wall, tint the styrofoam with light acrylic to bring out the texture. And in the final, try to age the surface with chalk or stains with white paint diluted with water.

An even more unexpected material for false bricks is simple cardboard, ideally corrugated, with a pronounced texture. This is used, for example, in egg packaging. Clean the surface, prepare the “bricks” and stick them, for example, on PVA glue or hot melt adhesive, using the markings. The texture can be made even more interesting with the help of decoupage: put thin paper napkins on top of the cardboard, coat with glue and create irregularities, seams and folds with a hard brush. When the whole composition dries, paint the wall and varnish it.

Everything is very simple – we mark the seams on the prepared and cleaned wall with tape strips. From above we apply plaster, putty mixed with sand, or even tile adhesive with the addition of paint. When the mixture dries slightly, remove the adhesive tape. After hardening, the surface can be treated with sandpaper and painted in any color – it is better to apply the tone not with a brush, but with a sponge, emphasizing the matte and uneven texture of the wall.

The most plausible option is a decorative brick-like stone. Each element is made separately from a mixture of gypsum and cement, and the most expensive versions are even made from baked clay. It is convenient that this is a veneer, that is, a thin and rather light plate that imitates the uneven and noble surface of a real brick.