Bricks on a wall: 500+ Brick Wall Pictures & Images [HD]

STEP 2: DRIVE WOODEN STAKES INTO THE TRENCH

Drive the stakes in so that all the top points are level.

Consider the nominal height of the bricks (the height of the bricks plus the mortar), and then nail them so that they are all at that height, below the top of the trench. This way, the first row of the brick wall will be completely inside the foundation. Use a level to ensure the top tips of the stakes are completely level, leaving a 2-4 foot gap between the stakes depending on the length of the wall.

STEP 3: FILL THE TRENCH WITH CONCRETE OR CEMENT FOR A BRICK WALL

Fill it to the top of the stakes, leaving the space to the edge of the trench you measured for the first row of bricks.  Make sure the top of the cement is smooth and level before it begins to dry. Concrete or cement takes 2-3 days to set.

STEP 4: BUILD THE SIGNPOSTS OR GAUGE BARS

These indicator posts or measuring rods will help you ensure the wall is level. For that, take 2 boards and mark them with nails in the place where each row of bricks should go, also known as courses. Always factor in the thickness of the mortar. Make sure you can nail the boards into the ground at both ends of the wall so they will hold without support. These should be the same height as the brick wall you will build.

STEP 5: LAY DOWN TARPS OR WOOD

Remember! At the base of the wall, place tarps or wood to catch the excess mortar as it falls.

STEP 6: LAY THE FIRST ROW OF BRICKS FOR THE BRICK WALL

Place the first course on the foundation to test the location, taking the mortar into account. Use the tape measure to make sure they are the correct distance apart and will fit snugly in the trench.  Plan what the entire first row will look like before you start building it.

STEP 7: STRAIGHT LINE LEVEL

Join the first nail mark of both boards with a thread or rope that will act as a guide, allowing you to maintain a straight, level line with which you can work.

STEP 8: NEW ROW IN THE BRICK WALL

We will go up the nail as we build a new row. This will help us form the second row of bricks since the first will be buried in the trench. Don’t let the thread or string slack. It must be kept taut to build a level, solid wall without structural problems.

STEP 9: SOAK THE BRICKS IN WATER

Soak the bricks in water and wait until they no longer drip or the mortar may become too thin. If we do not soak them, they will absorb the water from the mortar. This causes problems in its setting. This is known as “drowning” of the mortar.

STEP 10: FIRST COAT OF MORTAR ON THE BRICK WALL

Using the trowel, place the first layer of mortar along the base of the footing.  Add a little more than 1.5 – 2 cm as you will be gently pressing the brick into place, squeezing the mortar out. 

STEP 11: FIRST BRICK IN THE BRICK WALL

Lay the first brick and press it lightly, then use the level to check that it is level with the ground, and then check it with the guide string. Remove the excess mortar from the joint and use it for the following bricks. When you’re sure the first brick is in place, add some mortar for the next 2-3 bricks.

STEP 12: COATING

Take a batch of mortar and coat the end of the next brick, which you will push against the first brick. You must place a layer of uniform mortar of the thickness that we have mentioned. Press it against the first brick as you put it in place, and use the tape measure to make sure it’s the correct distance apart.

STEP 13 – PRESS THE BRICK LIGHTLY

Press down on the layer of mortar that you placed on the base. Use the level to ensure the bricks are aligned and at a uniform height. Press them down lightly to get them perfectly positioned. Then trowel off any excess mortar as you go. When pressing the bricks to get the 1.5 – 2cm joints the mortar starts to bulge out.

STEP 14: BRICK WALL ROW

Keep adding bricks until you have finished the row. Continue laying in the same manner, covering the base and one side with mortar, pressing and checking the alignment with the level. You have to be meticulous and use the level and tape measure with all bricks.

STEP 15: CLIMB THE GUIDE ROPE TO THE NEXT MARKER

You have to remember to move the rope each time you advance to a new row, so that you know how high it needs to go.

STEP 17: BEGIN THE NEXT ROW WITH HALF A BRICK AT EACH END.

You can cut them with the trowel or a hammer. This is how we avoid laying a row directly on top of the previous with the joints aligned. We need the joint to be running or to break the joint, and to do this, mortar the half brick and put it in position, then place a full brick next to it in the usual way. Repeat at the other end of the wall, so that you have already placed a half brick and a full brick on each side.

STEP 18: MAINTAIN THE ALIGNMENT OF THE BRICK WALL

To help you maintain alignment, you want to build the brick wall ends up to one layer above the one you are working on, so that it looks like there is a ladder at the ends of the wall. Then complete the bottom row, rebuild the ends one layer higher, and continue until you reach the top. 

Remember to use the guide string along with the level to guarantee the bricks are aligned and at the correct height. The measuring bars will help you place the end bricks, as they will line up exactly with the marks placed on the end of the wall.

• Continue building the brick wall from the ends inwards. The ends of the wall should be built up to the layer above the row you are working on. This is important, especially if the wall has columns at either end. The procedure is the same for each row:
• Move the guide rope.
• Apply the mortar .
• Press a brick into either end of the wall with the help of the guide string and level to make sure they are at the correct height.
• Do the same for the row above the one you are currently building.
• Measure, place the mortar and build the lowest row (complete the layer)
• Repeat the process on the next row.

STEP 19: FILL WITH MORTAR

Fill any part of the wall that needs it with mortar. Use the trowel to fill any spots or gaps in the joints and ensure they are even. Now wait approximately 45-60 minutes before proceeding as the mortar needs to be slightly hardened before we move on.

STEP 20: PROFESSIONAL MORTAR FINISH

Use a trowel to give the mortar a professional finish. Butchers are little tools that help you get that curved, professional finish at wall joints.  Firmly press the tool on the joints and slide it through the mortar leaving a perfect finish to the brick wall you have built.

Do-it-yourself brick wall from plaster: how to make an imitation of a brick

How to make a brick wall in an apartment:

From plaster

• Marking
• Mortar preparation and application
• Shape correction
• Painting

Foam

• Marking
• Installation
• Painting and decoration

Tile

• Flexible clinker
• Hard materials

Decorating Tips

Do-it-yourself brick wall made of plaster is the most popular way of decorating, but far from the only one. Let’s take a closer look at each one, shall we?

• Inexpensive way. Such coverage does not require financial investments.
• Eco friendly. The plaster does not contain harmful impurities.
• Uncomplicated. It does not require special skills and tools. Just a little care and patience.

Marking

Before starting the main work, it is necessary to prepare the surface – remove the old finish. If it is not even, level with plaster and cover with a primer. Another option is to use drywall, this is a dry leveling method. However, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small, this method is unlikely to work, because the sheets will “eat up” the space.

Please note: if the apartment is in a new building, you can start decorating the room no earlier than 1 year after the delivery of the house. Otherwise, the walls may shrink and cracks form.

Unsplash

After the surface is prepared for work, you can start marking. And there are two options here.

Pery: in some construction stores they sell a ready-made mesh form, this method is simpler, but also more expensive. Second: self markup. How to make an imitation of a brick wall with your own hands?

• The standard brick size is 250 mm x 65 mm, the size of the joints is about 15 mm, although this is not essential, and they can of course be changed.
• Cut out a cardboard brick with seams on the sides.
• Mark the center of the brick, also considering the seams. You should get a blank as in the photo below.

Marking starts from the left corner. Provide for indents from the ceiling and floor in advance – at least 5 cm. First, you can mark the area according to the grid principle, marking the grid, and then draw half the brick through the row. Circle the resulting stones, and you will have a standard brickwork.

It is convenient to use masking tape 15 mm thick. Glue the jumpers with an overlap, be sure to leave “tails” at the edges so that later the tape can be easily removed.

If you forgot about the primer at the processing stage, it can be applied directly over the tape now.

Mortar preparation and application

You will need the following tools:

• Mixing container;
• Wide, narrow spatula;
• Gloves, oilcloth.

The most reliable mortar is gypsum plaster and tile adhesive. You can knead it with a special nozzle on a drill (mixer) or manually. What is important to consider? If there is no experience in repair work, do not knead a large amount of the mixture at once. If you don’t have time to apply it, it will dry out.

Pexels

Plaster can be applied with a spatula or by hand. But it is better to level the solution with a wide spatula in an upward direction.

You need to tear off the adhesive tape immediately, without waiting for the plaster to completely harden! Otherwise, later it will be impossible.

Correction of the shape

To make the imitation of a brick wall look natural with your own hands, you need to slightly correct it. This is true if you did not level the surface before removing the adhesive tape.

When the bricks have hardened, you can go over them again with sandpaper or, for example, make neat small chips. The texture of the surface depends only on your wishes.

Instagram @stone__spirit

Painting

Before applying paint, the surface must be prepared: walk with a dry brush, remove dust not only from the stones, but also from the gaps.

Then comes the primer. Here it is also important not to forget about the gaps. After that, start painting.

Only stones can be painted, and the seams can be left as they are. Or paint over the seams. In this case, be careful, take a thin brush so as not to stain the brick if the paint is contrasting. It is advisable to choose one that can be washed. Especially if you are remodeling your kitchen. One of the suitable options is the usual water emulsion.

By the way, instead of plaster, you can take gypsum putty, the principle of operation will be the same.

• This imitation adheres well to the wall.
• Styrofoam is easy to cut and handle.
• It does not generate dust, which is important for interior work.
• Cheaper than plaster.
• The main disadvantage: low impact resistance, it is easily crumpled and broken upon impact.

In this case, it is better to purchase dense foam with fine grain, it does not break or crumble when cutting.

It is most convenient to use liquid nails as glue for single bricks, and mounting foam for a solid sheet.

Pexels

Marking

How to make the imitation of brickwork on the wall as natural as possible? There are two ways to create such a masonry.

Individual elements

The size of the bricks is exactly the same – 250 mm x 60 mm. If you have a sheet of expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) in front of you, then the optimal width of one product is about 12 mm.
The material is easy to cut with an ordinary construction knife with a sharp blade. In this case, each detail will have its own texture.

Sheet

Instead of individual bricks, you can make a decorative sheet that imitates masonry. Since the foam melts easily, a soldering iron is used for this. They are carried out at the seams, controlling the depth of pressing. Be especially careful with the corners – they should be even, without roundings and bevels.

I must say that this method is suitable for those who are already familiar with the material; It’s unlikely to be perfect the first time. Need to practice.

When burning, be sure to wear a mask and ventilate the room well! Styrofoam emits harmful fumes when melted.

Instagram @muravina_designer

Laying

Start laying the bricks always from the corner, then lay the door and window openings.

Can be attached directly to the wall using liquid nails, or to a sheet of drywall or plywood. Subsequently, such a sheet can be fixed on self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, since the sheet lies on the floor, the work is carried out on a horizontal surface.

Painting and decoration

Some leave the texture of the foam, while others cover it with putty – to give a special structure to the stone.

In any case, the material must be primed before painting. Carefully choose the paint, it can ruin the polystyrene foam. Suitable paints without solvents, for example, water-based. The result can be fixed with matte acrylic varnish.

Learn more about making foam bricks in the video below.

Today, you can find several options for tiles in the hardware store. This is not only standard ceramic, but also modern soft – elastic clinker based on polyacrylic.

Working with flexible clinker

• Very flexible material, adheres to any surface, bends even around sharp corners.
• Easy to cut with long scissors, can be cut into any shape.
• UV and frost resistant, non-fading, breathable.
• Suitable for both interior decoration and house facades.

Instagram @klinker05

Surface preparation in this case is the same: it is leveled and primed. The difference is in the materials used. Most often, clinker is planted on tile adhesive, but the seller may advise you to purchase a special one from the manufacturer. Such a composition will make the tile more stable and solid.

1. First, rows are marked with a simple pencil and ruler.
2. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel, a layer of 2-3 mm is sufficient. No need to completely cover the entire area! Fill in small areas so that the adhesive does not have time to dry.
3. Apply the tile carefully, without applying too much pressure. Making half a brick is easy, just cut it with scissors.
4. After the main stage is completed, the adhesive on the seams is leveled with a thin brush slightly moistened with water.
5. Flexible clinker does not require the use of grout. This is an undoubted advantage of the material.

Pexels

Features of hard materials

• Rigid gypsum tiles are cheaper than analogues. However, its main disadvantage is that it is not at all resistant to moisture, so it cannot be laid in rooms with an aggressive environment, for example, in a bathroom, in a kitchen. However, there are also products with a protective coating.
• Another type – from cement. Inexpensive yet durable, it is often used to create both indoor and outdoor decor. Interestingly, you can even make it yourself. The solution is simply poured into a special form.
• Finally, the third type is clinker tiles. It has the highest performance characteristics, but the price is appropriate. It is rarely purchased for interior decoration.

Instagram @shedarchitecture

Mounting

Working with rigid material is similar to working with elastic material. The main difference is that solid bricks will have to be cut, and one cannot do without the appropriate tools. You will need a circular saw or grinder with a disc.

In addition, the joints must be grouted with a special compound after installation. This must be done very carefully so as not to get on the stones, because it is difficult to wipe it off.

In general, if you have experience in laying tiles, there will be no problems.

Pexels

The more light hits a brick wall, the more natural and natural it should look. An illuminated decorative brick wall attracts attention, and if done carelessly or poorly, it reduces the cost of the interior.

Choose a color based on the overall gamut of the room. Standard terracotta is suitable for warm interiors, cold gray – for more brutal ones. By the way, it is better to add a little ocher to neutral white, so it will not seem flat and lifeless.

Material prepared

Anastasia Khripunkova

Bricks for the wall made of plaster

5