Waterless heating tanks: Tankless Water Heaters: A Buyer’s Guide
Tankless Water Heaters: A Buyer’s Guide
Think about it: The way most households in this country heat water is absurdly wasteful. We fill up big 40- to 50-gallon storage tanks, then pour energy into them 24/7, year in and year out, to make sure we have hot water at the ready whenever we want it.
But often it doesn’t work out that way. If a teenager takes a long shower, or a spouse settles in for a tub soak, there can be a long wait for that emptied tank to reheat. Then there are the nagging worries: Is it filled with energy-robbing sediment? Will it spring a leak? Both are reasonable concerns, as tanks generally fail in 8 to 12 years.
Tankless Water Heater Installation: Is It Worth It?
These are the arguments for investing in a tankless water heater. It generates hot water only when you need it—and for as long as you need it—saving 27 to 50 percent of fuel costs over tank-type heaters. (A typical gas-fired tank wastes 40 to 50 percent of the fuel it burns. )
And because there’s no tank to fail, there’s almost no chance of a catastrophic leak. What’s more, since their introduction in the United States in the 1990s, tankless heaters have become increasingly sophisticated, with features like built-in recirculating pumps (for “instant” hot water), and wireless connectivity that tells you via smartphone exactly when a unit needs maintenance.
Below is our guide to tankless water heaters. In it, we’ll explain how a tankless water heater works, tell you what you need to know before you buy one—and before the installer arrives—and let you in on the units’ operating quirks, so there won’t be any surprises if you go tankless.
How Does a Tankless Water Heater Work?
Illustration by Doug Adams
- It all starts when you turn on the hot-water tap (1).
- A flow sensor (2) detects water coming into the heater and sends a signal to the control panel to start producing hot water.
- In a gas-fired unit, the control panel (3) turns on the fan (4), which draws in outside air, opens the gas valve (5) that lets in the gas, and ignites the burner (6).
- The heat exchanger (7) captures heat from the flames and transfers it to the water moving through the exchanger’s tubing.
- The mixing valve (8) tempers the superheated water exiting the exchanger.
- If the temperature sensor (9) detects that the water exceeds or falls short of the desired setting, the panel will adjust the gas valve, the mixing valve, and the flow-regulating water valve (10) accordingly.
- A sealed vent (11) (or pair of vents) through a roof or outside wall carries away exhaust gases and conveys combustion air to the burner.
Thanks to: Phillip Maxwell, Residential Product Manager, Rheem; Eric Manzano, Product Training Supervisor, Noritz; Joe Holliday Senior Director, Product and Business Development, Rinnai; Fred Molina, Water Heater Products Manager, Bosch Thermotechnology
What to Know About Tankless Water Heaters
Courtesy of Noritz
How Much Does a Tankless Water Heater Cost?
Prices range from about $170 for small gas-fired units to more than $2,000 for high-output heaters that can supply two showers at the same time; $1,000 is about average.
Tankless electric heaters run between $90 and $900. First-time installation costs run more than a simple tank replacement. (See subsection below, entitled “Electric Tankless Water Heater Installation.”)
How to Install a Tankless Water Heater
This is definitely a job for a pro, as it involves making leak-free water, vent, and gas connections, in the case of gas or propane units, or upgrading the wiring and circuit-breaker panel, in the case of electric units.
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance
Sign up to have a pro provide annual service, including cleaning or changing water and air filters and checking the burner. In areas with hard water, a vinegar flush every 500 hours keeps mineral buildup—scale—from clogging the heat exchanger. That 20-minute task can be done by either a pro or a homeowner.
How Long Do Tankless Water Heaters Last?
Gas-burning tankless water heaters should operate for 20 years or more, two or three times longer than tank-type heaters.
Tankless electric units have shorter life spans, on the order of 7 to 10 years.
Where Can I Buy One?
Plumbing supply stores, big-box stores, and online retailers all carry these heaters. Or order one through your plumber.
Pros and Cons of Tankless Water Heaters
Courtesy of Noritz
PRO: They’re Compact
Newer tank-type water heaters have grown bigger as federal regulations now require thicker insulation to reduce standby heat loss.
So they may not be able to fit into spaces where an old heater of the same capacity could go. Tankless gas heaters are about the size of a suitcase and hang on the wall.
PRO: They’re Safer
Unlike a tank-type heater, they won’t spill gallons of water if they spring a leak, or harbor Legionella bacteria, or tip over in an earthquake. And because the air supply and exhaust vents are sealed, carbon monoxide can’t leak into the house due to backdrafting.
PRO: They’re Easy to Winterize
Owners of vacation homes know well how long it takes to drain a water-heater tank before closing up a house for the winter. With a compressor, you can drain a tankless heater in a few seconds; then you just unplug it.
CON: They’re Sensitive to Slow Flow
If there’s too much scale buildup in the pipes, or faucet and showerhead aerators are clogged, or a turned-down faucet reduces water flow to about 0.3 gpm, these units automatically shut off.
CON: The Payback Takes Awhile
Compared with a tank-type heater costing $400 or so, a $1,000 tankless gas heater may save a household only about $100 per year, depending on how efficient it is and how much hot water is used.
But because these tankless gas units last longer, the savings kicks in after six years, about when many tanks are nearing their demise.
New Tankless Water Heater Technology
Courtesy of Noritz
Tankless technology is constantly improving.
Here are some of the latest refinements:
Higher Efficiency
Condensing gas heaters can extract up to 96 percent of a fuel’s heat—a 17 percent improvement over first-generation tankless units—thanks to a second heat exchanger that captures much of the exhaust heat before it goes out the vent.
They’re about 25 percent more expensive than noncondensing heaters, and they create an acidic condensate that has to be neutralized. If a heater isn’t equipped with a built-in neutralizing cartridge, the installer has to add one.
Instant Hot Water
Tankless units take about 15 seconds to bring water up to temperature, but you still have to wait for that hot water to arrive at your shower head or faucet, just as you do with a tank-type heater.
When the distance between heater and fixture exceeds 50 feet, look for units with a built-in recirculation pump, which saves water and reduces waiting time. The pump, which can be turned on by a timer, a push button, a motion sensor, a smart speaker, or a smartphone (above), pushes the cold water in the pipes back through the heater.
After about a minute, the pump shuts off and you get hot water seconds after opening the tap.
Wi-Fi Compatible
Tankless units with digital connectivity let you adjust the temperature and monitor gas and hot-water usage on your phone.
More important, the unit can identify the source of a problem. Relay that information to your plumber and he or she can show up knowing exactly what needs to be done. That feature also eliminates any guesswork about when it’s time to descale.
Tankless Water Heater Rebates: A Great Way to Save
Photo by Carl Tremblay
“Condensing tankless water heaters are so efficient, they’re certified by the federal Energy Star program, making them eligible for utility rebates across the country. These rebates are often enough to bridge the difference in price between the more expensive condensing units and the cheaper noncondensing ones. Then it’s basically a free or low-cost upgrade that will save money for the next 20 years or more.
” —Richard Trethewey, TOH plumbing and heating expert
What Size Tankless Water Heater Do I Need?
Here’s how the pros make sure your heater delivers enough hot water.
It takes a big burst of BTUs for a tankless heater to turn cold water into hot water in just a few seconds. But if a heater’s Btu output can’t keep up with demand, it will cut back the flow, or, worse case, deliver lukewarm water.
To determine whether a heater will be able to meet a household’s needs, a plumber looks at three factors:
- The temperature of the water coming into the heater
- The peak demand for hot water in gallons per minute (gpm)
- The heater’s efficiency, as indicated by its Uniform Energy Factor, found in the product specs.
- The first step: A pro finds out how many Btus per gallon a heater needs to raise the incoming water to 120 degrees (see the map in the next slide).
- Next comes peak demand, the sum of the flow rates for every appliance and fixture that could be using hot water at the same time. (Those rates are listed in the next slide.) The total gets shaved by 20 percent, since we don’t bathe or wash in 120-degree water. You can reduce peak demand by upgrading to low-flow fixtures and water-saving appliances, or by holding off on the washing when the shower is in use.
- Total Btu output is calculated by plugging the Btus-per-gallon and peak-demand figures into the formula. If that output falls between two models, get the one with the higher Btu rating. And if the output exceeds 198,000 Btus, the maximum for residential gas heaters, you’ll need two smaller units that work in tandem.
Btus Output Estimate
Don’t want to do the math? Use these figures to estimate how much heater output you’ll need.
- 1 bathroom, 1–2 people: 140,000 Btus
- 2 bathrooms, 2–3 people: 190,000 Btus
- 3 bathrooms, 3–5 people: 380,000 Btus
Btus Per Gallon by Region
Fixture flow rates
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Showerhead: 1. 25–2.5 gpm
- Kitchen or bath faucet: 1.5–2.2 gpm
- Tub filler faucet: 4 gpm
- Dishwasher: 1–2.5 gpm
- Washing machine: 1.5–3 gpm
25–2.5 gpmHow to Determine gpm?
To find the actual gpm of a fixture, time how many seconds it takes to fill a bucket to a 1-quart mark. Dividing 15 by that number of seconds equals gpm.
Electric Tankless Water Heater Facts
Courtesy of Stiebel and Eltron
Homes without a gas line or propane tank can also enjoy the advantages of on-demand hot water by installing tankless units powered by electricity. These units, which heat water with thick copper rods, are quieter and about a third smaller than gas or propane tankless heaters. And because they don’t need vents, they can be installed almost anywhere, including under sinks and in small closets.
One drawback to electric units is its limited output, which tops out at 36 kilowatts, or about 123,000 Btus.
That may be enough to supply a whole house in areas with warm groundwater, but in colder climes they’re better suited to point-of-use service, where the demand for hot water doesn’t get too high. Whichever type you choose, it will need sufficient amperage at the main panel and heavy-gauge wires.
Also, electric heaters last only about half as long as gas units: Typical warranties are three to five years. Once the heating elements fry, it usually costs about as much to replace the entire heater as it does to swap in new elements.
Tankless Water Heater Installation
Illustration by Doug Adams
What you and your plumber need to assess before installation day:
Gas Line
For the burner in a tankless heater to perform properly, it has to be hooked up to a gas-supply line that delivers enough volume at sufficient pressure. In many cases that means the diameter of the supply pipe has to be increased to 3⁄4 inch.
And if the pressure falls short, the gas company will have to adjust the regulator on the meter.
FYI: Some tankless units, such as those made by Rheem, are able to work with a standard ½-inch gas line, provided it isn’t longer than 24 feet.
Venting
Noncondensing tankless gas heaters use stainless-steel vents that can withstand high exhaust heat. Condensing units have a cooler exhaust, and use less expensive PVC pipes. A concentric vent, which has an exhaust pipe inside a larger air-intake pipe, simplifies installation because only one hole needs to be cut in the wall.
FYI: Typically, vent runs have been limited to just 10 feet. But more powerful fans, like those in Rinnai’s Sensei series, now allow vents to run up to 150 feet.
Water Hardness
Scale deposits that form in a heat exchanger (or on electric heating elements) slow down heat transfer and constrict water flow. Scale won’t be an issue if you already have whole-house water-softening.
But if your water isn’t being softened, and its hardness exceeds 120 milligrams per liter, then it’s worth investing in a treatment system.
FYI: A dedicated, point-of-use cartridge like the TAC-ler water conditioner (Stiebel Eltron) alters hardness without adding salt or other chemicals.
Outdoor Tankless Water Heater
Photo by Matt Risinger
Consider the advantages of hanging a heater outdoors, if your climate and local codes permit.
- Saves space: That’s one less appliance you have to make room for inside.
- Simple to install: The built-in exhaust vent eliminates having to cut a big hole (or two) through the side of the house.
- Easy to service: A plumber can get to it at any time, whether you’re home or not. But keep in mind…
-
Building regulations: You may need permission from your local building department to put it outside.
- Cold weather: Internal heaters keep components toasty down to −22-degrees F, but exposed water pipes must be insulated and wrapped in heat tape that turns on automatically in freezing temperatures. Frozen pipes are less of a concern south of the Mason-Dixon Line.
Tankless Water Heater Venting
Photo by Carl Tremblay
“Old tank-type gas water heaters commonly funnel their fumes into chimneys, but that’s no place to vent a tankless gas heater. It must be connected to dedicated vent pipes that exit through a roof or an outside wall.” —Richard Trethewey
Looking for help with repairs around your home? A home warranty may help. Check out these in-depth guides from the This Old House Reviews Team:
- Best home warranty companies
- American Home Shield reviews
- AFC Home Club reviews
- Select Home Warranty reviews
- Choice Home Warranty reviews
Tankless or Demand-Type Water Heaters
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Tankless water heaters, also known as demand-type or instantaneous water heaters, provide hot water only as it is needed.
They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save money. Here you’ll find basic information about how they work, whether a tankless water heater might be right for your home, and what criteria to use when selecting the right model. Check out the Energy Saver 101: Water Heating infographic to learn if a tankless water heater is right for you, and our #AskEnergySaver discussion on water heating for more answers on efficient water heating.
How They Work
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Tankless water heaters heat water instantaneously without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water faucet is turned on, cold water flows through a heat exchanger in the unit, and either a natural gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, tankless water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. However, a tankless water heater’s output limits the flow rate.
Typically, tankless water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons (7.
6–15.2 liters) per minute. Gas-fired tankless water heaters produce higher flow rates than electric ones. Sometimes, however, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a tankless water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more tankless water heaters. You can also install separate tankless water heaters for appliances — such as a clothes washer or dishwater — that use a lot of hot water in your home. However, additional water heaters will cost more and may not be worth the additional cost.
Other applications for demand water heaters include the following:
- Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
- Booster for appliances, such as dishwashers or clothes washers
- Booster for a solar water heating system.
Advantages and Disadvantages
For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters.
They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water — around 86 gallons per day. In some cases you may be able to achieve even greater energy savings if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet.
The initial cost of a tankless water heater is greater than that of a conventional storage water heater, but tankless water heaters will typically last longer and have lower operating and energy costs, which could offset their higher purchase price. Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. They also have easily replaceable parts that may extend their life by many more years. In contrast, storage water heaters last 10–15 years.
Tankless water heaters avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. However, although gas-fired tankless water heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric ones, they can waste energy if they have a pilot light. This can sometimes offset the elimination of standby energy losses when compared to a storage water heater.
In a gas-fired storage water heater, the pilot light heats the water in the tank so the energy isn’t wasted.
The cost of operating a pilot light in a tankless water heater varies from model to model. Review the manufacturer’s literature to determine how much gas the pilot light uses for the model you’re considering. Look for models that have an intermittent ignition device (IID) instead of a standing pilot light. This device resembles the spark ignition device on some natural gas furnaces and kitchen ranges and ovens.
Selecting a Demand Water Heater
Before buying a demand water heater, you also need to consider the following:
- Size
- Fuel type and availability
- Energy efficiency (energy factor)
- Costs
Installation and Maintenance
Proper installation and maintenance of your demand water heater can optimize its energy efficiency.
Proper installation depends on many factors. These factors include fuel type, climate, local building code requirements, and safety issues, especially concerning the combustion of gas-fired water heaters.
Therefore, it’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor install your demand water heater. Do the following when selecting a contractor:
- Request cost estimates in writing
- Ask for references
- Check the company with your local Better Business Bureau
- See if the company will obtain a local permit if necessary and understands local building codes.
If you’re determined to install your water heater yourself, first consult the manufacturer. Manufacturers usually have the necessary installation and instruction manuals. Also, contact your city or town for information about obtaining a permit, if necessary, and about local water heater installation codes.
Periodic water heater maintenance can significantly extend your water heater’s life and minimize loss of efficiency. Read your owner’s manual for specific maintenance recommendations.
Improving Energy Efficiency
After your demand water heater is properly installed and maintained, try some additional energy-saving options to help lower your water heating bills.
Some energy-saving devices and systems are more cost-effective to install with the water heater.
Tankless Water Heaters: 7 Pros and 6 Cons You Should Know
Tankless water heaters, also known as on-demand or instant water heaters, have many advantages over traditional tank-style water heaters and can be an excellent long-term investment.
But, like any product, they have their downsides and they are not the right solution for every home.
Unlike traditional tank-style water heaters, which continuously use energy to maintain a hot water supply, tankless water heaters only expend energy when you turn on a hot water tap or when you’re using appliances.
This on-demand style of operation results in their most significant advantage: energy and cost savings.
Besides energy and cost savings, there are several other reasons to choose a tankless water heater over a traditional tank-style heater. Tankless water heaters produce an endless supply of hot water, take up less space, have a lower risk of leaking, are safer, and have a significantly longer lifespan on average.
The main disadvantage of tankless water heaters is their upfront cost (unit and installation) is significantly higher than tank-style heaters. Including installation, tankless water heaters cost 3 times more than tank-style water heaters on average.
In addition to high upfront costs, tankless water heaters have several other disadvantages compared to tank-style water heaters:
- they take longer to deliver hot water
- the water temperature is inconsistent when multiple outlets are on simultaneously
- they cannot provide hot water during a power outage
Investing in a tankless water heater is a difficult decision, so it’s important to understand all the facts before you make up your mind. In this article, I provide a comprehensive list of the pros and cons of tankless water heaters so you can make a well-informed decision based on your unique situation.
Let’s get right into it. Click the links below to skip to a section.
The Pros of Tankless Water Heaters:
- Pro: Long-term Energy and Cost Savings
- Pro: Unlimited Supply of Hot Water
- Pro: Less Space
- Pro: Lower Risk of Leaks and Water Damage
- Pro: Zero Risk of Tank Exploding
- Pro: Lower Risk of Burns and Exposure to Toxic Metals
- Pro: Life Expectancy of Over 20 Years
The Cons of Tankless Water heaters:
- Con: High Upfront Cost of the Unit and Installation
- Con: Take Longer to Deliver Hot Water
- Con: Cold Water Sandwich
- Con: Inconsistent Water Temperature When Multiple Outlets Are in Use
- Con: Difficult to Achieve a Lukewarm Temperature
- Con: No Access to Hot Water During a Power Outage
- Bottom Line: Is a Tankless Water Heater Worth It?
Pro: Long-term Energy and Cost Savings
The main advantage of tankless water heaters is that they are energy efficient and save you money over the long term.
A tank-style water heater expends energy around the clock to maintain the temperature of a 40 to 50-gallon water supply so that hot water is ready when it’s needed.
Tankless water heaters, as their name suggests, heat water on-demand and do not maintain a supply of water.
By only heating water when it’s needed, tankless water heaters do not experience standby heat loss, which occurs when heat escapes the water tank and needs constant reheating.
When a tap, shower, or appliance is turned on, cold water passes through the tankless water heater where it’s heated by either a gas-fired burner or electric coils.
Once the water is heated (this happens in seconds), the hot water travels through the pipes and out the tap, showerhead, or any other outlet in your home.
So how much energy will you save?
Your energy savings depends on the amount of water you use and the efficiency of your previous tank-style system.
According to the U.
S. Department of Energy, tankless water heaters can be between 8% and 50% more energy-efficient than tank-style water heaters, but the actual efficiency depends on the amount of hot water you use.
If you use less than 41 gallons of hot water per day, a tankless heater is 24%-34% more efficient than a tank-style heater.
If you use a lot of hot water, around 86 gallons per day, tankless water heaters are only 8% to 14% more efficient since they are running more often.
If you install tankless water heaters at each outlet (shower/sink) instead of a centralized system for your entire house, you can save even more; between 27% and 50%.
Switching from a tank-style water heater to a tankless water heater will save a family of four an average of $100 per year or over $1500 throughout the lifetime of the system, according to Energy Star.
Pro: Unlimited Supply of Hot Water
Here’s a scenario; you come home from a family beach day and everyone in the house needs to take a shower.
By the fifth shower in a row, the hot water is running low, and you’re the one stuck taking a cold shower.
If you have a tankless water heater, you will never find yourself in that scenario. Let me explain.
Each tankless water heater has a maximum flow rate; in other words, they’re only able to heat a certain amount of water at a given time.
If you have 5 showers running simultaneously, most tankless heaters won’t be able to keep up.
However, as long as your water usage at any given time is below the maximum allowable flow rate, tankless water heaters provide an endless supply of hot water.
Since tankless water heaters work by heating water from the external source on-demand, you could take a shower for 10 hours (or longer), and the water would be as hot as it would be for a 10-minute shower.
Pro: Take Up Less Space
If space in your home is limited, tankless water heaters provide a huge benefit. They are usually mounted to the wall and take up significantly less physical space compared to tank-style water heaters.
To give you an idea of how tankless and tank-style water heaters compare in terms of size, the average 40 to 50-gallon tank-style heater is 54 to 60 inches tall with a 20-inch diameter and is shaped like a cylinder.
The average tankless unit is around 27 inches tall, 18 inches wide, 10 inches deep, and rectangular.
Tank-style (left) vs Tankless (right)
Tank-style heaters take up floor space, usually in the basement, while tankless units are mounted to a wall like a circuit breaker and can fit in most closets.
Pro: Lower Risk of Leaks and Water Damage
One of the biggest risks with tank-style heaters is, over time, minerals from hard water build-up within the tank which leads to corrosion and eventually leaks.
Since tankless water heaters don’t have a tank, there is no risk of leaks or flooding.
This doesn’t mean that tankless water heaters are immune to issues. They can and will run into problems that could result in leaking, but the chances of having a major leak that floods your entire basement and causes significant damage are slim.
Pro: Zero Risk of Tank Exploding
Today’s plumbing code requires all tank-style water heaters to have a temperature and pressure relief valve that opens to release pressure and eliminate the possibility of the tank exploding.
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
Over time, minerals and sediment from the water can clog up the valve and prevent it from functioning properly.
When this happens, a dangerous amount of pressure can build-up and put you at risk. If you have a tank-style water heater, experts recommend testing the valve at least once a year; learn how in this video.
Although it rarely happens, explosions are a serious risk with tank-style water heaters. Fortunately, since tankless heaters do not have a tank, there is absolutely zero risk of an explosion ever occurring. One less thing to stress out over.
Pro: Lower Risk of Burns and Exposure to Toxic Metals
Many experts argue that tankless water heaters are safer than tank-style heaters.
Besides the fact that they don’t have a tank that could explode, they also provide more precise control over the temperature so you’re less likely to be burned by hot water.
Also, as I mentioned earlier, tank-style heaters break down over time due to hard water causing the inner lining of the tank to rust and corrode.
Those minerals and particles eventually make their way into your water lines and expose your family to harmful toxins.
Since tankless water heaters don’t maintain a supply of water in a corroding tank, the water they distribute throughout your home is more pure and safer on your skin.
Pro: Life Expectancy of Over 20 Years
I recently published an article that covers the topic of how long water heaters last and explains how to extend the life of your water heater.
On average, tank-style water heaters last between 8 and 12 years, however, tankless water heaters usually last over 20 years.
If you’re already in your “forever home” or plan to stay where you are for a while, investing in a tankless water heater will save you from needing a replacement for a very long time.
Con: High Upfront Cost of the Unit and Installation
The biggest downside of tankless water heaters by far is the high upfront cost of the unit and installation.
According to HomeAdvisor, the average cost of a 40 to 50-gallon tank-style water heater including installation is $889. The average cost of a tankless water heater including installation is $3,000.
Tankless water heats are more expensive primarily due to higher installation costs. Often times, special wiring needs to be installed in order to handle the increased load and/or a new vent pipe needs to be installed.
Also, since tank-style heaters have been around longer and are more common, more professionals are capable of installing them and the labor costs are lower.
Additionally, hard water (water containing high levels of minerals) can cause tankless water heaters to work harder and eventually break down.
Due to this risk, some manufacturers require that you also install a water softening system, or the warranty is voided.
Installing this additional component adds to the overall cost.
Use the links below to compare the prices of popular tank and tankless water heaters. Please note that these prices do not include installation.
Tankless Water Heaters (links open listings on HomeDepot.com)
- Rheem Performance Platinum 9.5 GPM Natural Gas High-Efficiency Tankless Water Heater
- Rheem Performance Plus 8.4 GPM Natural Gas Indoor Tankless Water Heater
- Rinnai High-Efficiency Plus 11 GPM Natural Gas Interior Tankless Water Heater
Tank-Style Water Heaters (links open listings on HomeDepot.com)
- Rheem Performance 40 Gal. Tall 6 Year 36,000 BTU Natural Gas Tank Water Heater
- Rheem Performance 30 Gal. Short 6 Year 30,000 BTU Natural Gas Tank Water Heater
- Sure Comfort 40 Gal. Tall 3 Year 34,000 BTU Natural Gas Tank Water Heater
Con: Take Longer to Deliver Hot Water
Another downside to tankless water heaters is the fact that they take longer to generate and deliver hot water compared to tank-style heaters.
Remember, tankless water heaters don’t keep a supply of hot water ready to flow immediately when you need it.
When you turn on a hot water tap, the idle water in the pipes is cool or, at best, room temperature.
Once that cool water is flushed out, heated water comes through, however, it can take between a few seconds and a minute depending on the distance between the heater and the tap.
Tank-style heaters don’t produce hot water instantly either but since they have a supply ready to go and don’t need to kick on, it reaches the outlet more quickly.
Con: Cold Water Sandwich
In researching tankless water heaters you’ve likely come across the term “cold water sandwich”.
A cold water sandwich occurs when intermittent use of hot water causes you to feel an initial surge of hot water, followed by cold water, which quickly turns hot again.
When you turn the hot water off and on quickly, like you would when you’re hand-washing dishes, the pipes have hot water in them from moments ago.
The short delay between when the water starts to flow and when the heater kicks on causes a short burst of cold water before turning hot.
The cold water sandwich sensation isn’t a major issue but it can throw you off if you’re not used to it.
Con: Inconsistent Water Temperature When Multiple Taps/Showers/Appliances Are in Use
Earlier in this article, I talked about the scenario when your family comes home from a beach day and everyone needs to take a shower.
The benefit of tankless water heaters in that scenario is that your whole family can take showers back-to-back without worrying about running out of hot water.
The downside is that, if you have multiple showers running at the same time, tankless water heaters are not able to keep up.
This isn’t just a problem with showers, depending on the size of your water heater, you can run into issues by having a shower and the dishwasher running at the same time.
When your shopping for tankless water heaters, the key metric you want to look at is flow rate.
Flow rate is the amount of water that a tankless unit can heat at a given time. It’s measured in Gallons Per Minute or GPM, the higher the GPG, the more water can be heated at the same time.
The chart below gives you an idea of the average flow rates for each type of outlet.
| Outlet | Average Flow Rates (GPM) |
|---|---|
| Bathroom Faucet | .5 – 1.5 |
| Dish Washer | 1 – 1.5 |
| Kitchen Faucet | 1.5 |
| Washing Machine (Clothes) | 1.5 – 3 |
| Shower | 2.5 – 3 |
| Tub | 4 |
Bottom line— tankless water heaters come in many different sizes with some equipped to handle households that use a ton of water to smaller units built for low water usage.
It’s important to determine what you need for your household and buy the appropriate size heater. Just remember, if you run too many taps/showers/appliances at once and exceed the flow rate capacity of your water heater, the water won’t be hot.
Here’s a quick guide to help you determine which size tankless water heater you need.
Con: Difficult to Achieve a Lukewarm Temperature
One of the lesser-known downsides of tankless water heaters is that they have difficulty achieving a lukewarm water temperature.
Since tankless water heaters need a minimum amount of water flow before activating, there’s a gap between completely cold water and the coolest warm water that you can create with a hot and cold water mix.
Not the end of the world since there are very few scenarios where you won’t be able to reach the temperature you need, but it’s worth mentioning if you’re the type of person that really enjoys cool showers.
Con: No Access to Hot Water During a Power Outage
When a storm comes and knocks out power in your home, it also knocks out the hot water.
Tankless water heaters can be powered by gas or electricity but even gas-powered tankless water heaters rely on an electric control panel to operate the system.
So, regardless of the type of tankless water heater you have, you’ll be out of hot water in the event of a power outage.
This is an area where tank-style water heaters have a significant advantage over tankless. Regardless of the power source, the water stored in their tank will remain hot for several days.
Bottom Line: Is a Tankless Water Heater Worth It?
Tankless water heaters have several advantages over traditional tank-style water heaters. They save energy (and save you money), they provide unlimited hot water, they’re small and compact, they never leak and don’t contribute to harmful metals in your water.
Best of all, they last twice as long as tank-style water heaters.
On the flip side, you’ll have to invest around $3,000 upfront, they provide inconsistent water temperature in many situations, and leave you without any hot water during a power outage.
The best way to decide whether a tankless water heater is right for you is to audit your situation.
Here are some simple questions to ask yourself:
- Do you have $3,000 to invest in an appliance that won’t provide a return on your investment for several years?
- Is your house new construction or are you planning on staying in it for a long time (10+ years)?
- Do you often run out of hot water due to several showers back-to-back?
- Could you benefit from extra space in your basement (who couldn’t?)?
If you answered “yes” to one or more of these questions, a tankless water heater might be right for you. If you answered “no” to one or more of these questions, especially, question #1, you should probably hold off and stick with a tank-style heater.
To learn more and check out the latest models, check out tankless water heaters on Amazon and HomeDepot.com.
To get a sense of the installation costs in your area, you can get free, no-obligation quotes from professionals on HomeAdvisor. com. You’ll get quotes from several professionals instantly and so you can compare them side-by-side and get the best rate possible.
If you found this article helpful, you should also check out these recent articles:
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Tankless Hot Water Heaters vs.
Tank Storage Water Heaters
Water heaters can be a costly investment for home owners that you’ll be living with for over a decade. That’s why when it’s time to equip your new home, or replace your old water heater it’s important to consider cost, efficiency, and longevity of your new water heater. We’ve put together this comparison of storage water heaters vs tankless water heaters to help homeowners and contractors decide on the type of water heater that’s best for you. We’ll examine the pros and cons of tankless and traditional water heaters so you can make an informed decision.
What Is a Tankless Water Heater?
Tankless water heaters, also known as on-demand water heaters, use high-powered burners to rapidly heat water as it runs through a heat exchanger and deliver it directly to your faucets or shower without storing it in a tank. Tankless water heaters are usually powered with electricity or gas. These types of water heaters were found to be 22 percent more energy efficient on average than the gas-fired storage-tank models in tests conducted by Consumer Reports.
How are “Traditional” Tank Storage Water Heaters Different?
Storage tank water heaters are commonly found in most homes. Their components are an insulated tank, typically holding 30-50 gallons of water, to heat and store the water until it’s needed. A pipe emerges from the top to deliver hot water to its destination, kitchen, bathroom, or other sinks.
Typically, there are storage-tank water heaters that use either natural gas or electricity for their fuel. Natural gas storage-tank water heaters use almost 50 percent less energy, costing less to operate, than the electric variety. However, they cost a bit more than electric models. They also feature a temperature and pressure-release valve that opens when either temperature or pressure exceeds preset levels.
Tankless Water Heater Energy Efficiency
Homeowners with on-demand (tankless) water heaters that use less than 41 gallons or less of hot water each day, enjoy between 24 and 34 percent more energy efficiency than storage tank water heaters. If you use lots of hot water daily (around 86 gallons), you might enjoy energy efficiency of an additional 8 to 14 percent.
Purchasing a tankless water heater will cost you a bit more than a traditional storage tank water heater, but, tankless varieties las longer than conventional water heater models which translates to a 20+-year useful life, as compared to storage tank types which last only 10 to 15 years before self-destructing, possibly flooding your basement or home, depending on their location If you want to “hit a home run,” install a tankless water heater at each hot water outlet. Why? You may receive energy savings of 27 to 50 percent if you put on-demand water heaters at all hot water outlets in your home.
Pros & Cons of Tankless Water Heaters
Since there are no perfect products (tankless water heaters are no exceptions), there are good points and downsides to on-demand water heaters, too.
Tankless Water Heater Advantages:
- Saves you money over time.
- According to Energy.gov, “For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand (or tankless) water heaters can be 24% to 34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters.” Tankless water heaters (if gas-fired) will save homeowners over $100 annually the longer they remain in service. Electric tankless water heaters still save homeowners around $44 per year according to the US Department of Energy.
- Longer useful lives than storage tank water heaters.
- Tankless water heaters typically last 20 to 30 years, double the forecasted useful life of a storage tank water heater. Be aware that “hard water” areas, may reduce the useful life of both types of water heaters.
- Does not consume the space of a storage tank water heater.
- On-demand water heaters are small and may be installed in “tight quarters.” They can even be installed on outside walls if your home is terminally space-challenged.
- You’ll have hot water whenever you need it.
- You won’t have to wait even 15 to 25 seconds for your water to become hot, as tankless water heaters deliver two to three gallons of hot water per minute. Many storage tank water heaters take longer to heat water, because of the larger volume of water they must heat, than most tankless types.
Drawbacks of Tankless Water Heaters:
- Higher purchase cost than storage tank water heaters.
- Tankless water heater installation can be costly if you’re replacing a storage tank water heater with a tankless-type water heater
- When you choose to retrofit a tankless water heater in place of a storage tank variety, your plumber-installer will take more time, increasing the installed cost, of replacing a storage tank water heater because of the complexity of relocating existing piping.
- They can be “output challenged.”
- Simultaneously taking showers and doing laundry can cause your tankless water heater to fail to keep up with the hot water demand on it.
If you have multiple showers in use in your home, you often will have one of the shower-takers endure a “chilly” experience.
Pros & Cons of Storage Tank Water Heaters
(Tank) Water Heater Advantages:
- Storage tank water heaters have lower initial cost by a significant margin.
- Storage tank water heaters operate simpler than tankless varieties, resulting in less costly maintenance and repairs.
- Their simplicity makes for easy, low-cost repairs when these water heaters are not functioning properly. Tankless water heaters are more complex and expensive to repair and, obviously, replace.
Drawbacks of Storage (Tank) Water Heaters:
- Somewhat higher utility bills.
- Since storage tank water heaters heat, then reheat water to pre-set temperature, irrespective of what your hot water needs happen to be, they increase your utility bills. If these water heaters function in a cool environment (location), they’ll work harder in the winter months, driving your gas or electric bills even higher during the cold winter.
- Occupy more space because of their size than on-demand water heaters.
- if your home is space-restricted, you’ll have challenges finding enough area to locate storage tank water heaters. Also, they cannot be located outside your home like tankless water heaters.
- You don’t want to be the last family member to take a shower.
- If you have a typical home water heater, you might want to get a larger one if you often have multiple showers taken. While this option may relieve the hot water shortage, but your energy bills will increase along with your hot water availability. Average storage tank water heaters can only support three showers in a row. You won’t like being the fourth shower-taker unless you prefer chilly, not hot, showers
- Need to be replaced more often than tankless water heaters.
- Since storage tank types have a shorter useful life (about ½ the life of on-demand water heaters), typically 10 to 15 years, you may need to buy and install them almost twice as often as tankless water heaters, reducing your purchase savings.
Summary
If your bank account can manage the higher initial cost of a tankless water heater, you’ll save more money over time by choosing tankless. But, if you are on a fixed modest income, a storage tank water heater might make more sense for you. Discuss the two types of water heaters with your plumber to weigh your options.
Now that you know the “good, bad, and the ugly” of both primary water heater options, you might want to call a top firm, like Petro Home Services (1-888-735-5651), to help you decide on the type, size, and brands of water heater you should consider.
When you want help navigating the often confusing waters (no pun intended) of making the best choice of water heater for your home, you’ll be pleased you contacted the professionals at Petro Home Services today. Why wait? Petro professionals will give you the objective information you need to make the right choice for you and your family.
Related Links
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- Tank And Tankless Hot Water Heaters
Tankless Water Heaters | Navien
Tankless Water Heaters
- Overview
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- Credits & Rebates
- Downloads
- FAQs
Condensing
Non-Condensing
Navien NPE-2 Series and NPN Series high efficiency tankless water heaters provide endless domestic hot water, all while keeping your utility bills low.
A tankless water heater is a type of water heater that doesn’t use a storage tank to heat water. Instead, hot water is produced only when you need it. Tankless water heaters are smaller and more efficient than traditional water heaters.
Navien offers models of tankless water heaters that use either condensing or non-condensing technology. Details on the differences between the two are below.
Condensing Tankless
Water Heaters
Navien Premium Efficiency condensing tankless water heaters are the #1 selling high efficiency condensing tankless water heaters in North America. The NPE-2 series offers ultra-high efficiency up to 0.96 UEF to keep your utility bills low, endless hot water, and exclusive ComfortFlow® technology with a built-in recirculation pump and buffer tank.
New NPE-A2 Series
Three NPE-A2 Advanced Premium models offer a Uniform Energy Factor up to .95 and feature Navien’s patented ComfortFlow system.
Learn more about the
NPE-A2 Series
New NPE-S2 Series
Four NPE-S2 Standard Premium models offer a Uniform Energy
Factor up to . 96, providing more output, lower installation costs
and lower operating costs.
Learn more about the
NPE-S2 Series
Non-Condensing
Tankless Water Heaters
Navien Premium Non-condensing tankless water heaters deliver a continuous flow of hot water for as long as you need it. No waiting for a tank to reheat more water, wasting time and energy. NPN series is the only non-condensing tankless water heater to offer NaviTech™ stainless steel heat exchanger and stainless steel burner for durable and eco-friendly performance.
NPN-U Series
NPN-U (Universal) premium non-condensing tankless water heaters offer a compact tankless solution for both indoor and outdoor installations.
Learn more about the
NPN-Universal Series
NPN-E Series
NPN-E (Exterior) non-condensing tankless water heaters offer a compact tankless solution for outdoor installations.
Learn more about the
NPN-Exterior Series
Condensing vs Non-Condensing Tankless Water Heaters
What’s the difference between condensing and non-condensing tankless water heaters?
| Condensing | Non-Condensing | |
| Initial cost | Usually higher than comparable non-condensing | Usually lower than comparable condensing |
| Long term operating cost | Lower than typical non-condensing tankless and storage tank system | Could be higher than condensing but lower than storage tank systems |
| Efficiency | Ultra-high Efficiency (UEF up to . |
High Efficiency (UEF > .80) |
| Maintenance requirement | Annual service recommended | Minimal |
| Venting | PVC acceptable | 3″ x 5″ metal concentric required |
| Installation Location | Indoor or Outdoor | Choice of interior or exterior |
| Durability | Stainless steel heat exchanger extend service life | Stainless steel heat exchanger extend service life |
| Dimensions | Slightly larger than non-condensing, about 70-80% smaller than tank system | Slightly smaller than condensing, 80% smaller than tank system |
Learn more about the
types of tankless water heaters
Condensing Tankless Water Heaters
Non-Condensing Tankless Water Heaters
All the hot water you need, for as long
as you need it
NAVIEN TANKLESS WATER HEATERS FEATURES
Bulky tanks are history.
.. Navien high efficiency tankless is the future
- Endless hot water when you want it
- Compact space-saving design
- Lower energy bills
- Longer life than tanks
- 15 year warranty dual stainless steel heat exchangers
Learn more about the
NPE-A2 Series
Learn more about the
NPE-S2 Series
Tankless Water Heaters FAQs
Below are the top questions (and answers) about tankless water heaters from our customer service team.
Installing a Navien tankless water heater is best done by a licensed plumbing contractor professional because it involves disconnecting and reconnecting gas lines. Venting and wiring also require professional expertise to ensure the installation meets building codes. Use Navien’s installer and service locator to find a specialist in your area.
It is worth switching to a tankless water heater if you are looking for a more efficient option. Tankless water heaters can save you money on your energy bill, and they can also have a longer lifespan than traditional water heaters.
To choose the right size tankless water heater for your home, you will need to consider a few factors, such as: the number of people in your household, the average water usage in your household, and the climate in your area.
A Navien tankless water heater must be purchased and installed by a licensed plumber. Find a Navien installer near you.
Condensing tankless water heaters need a condensate drain. This is because when the water is heated, it produces condensation that needs to be drained away. The condensate drain ensures that this doesn’t build up and cause problems with the tankless water heater.
Descaling is a process that removes mineral deposits from the inside of the tankless water heater. It’s something that needs to be done every few years, depending on the hardness of your water.
Navien tankless water heaters have a lifespan of up to 20 years. However, proper maintenance is required in order to achieve this lifespan.
Find a Navien Tankless Water Heater Installer Near You
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Solved! How Does A Tankless Water Heater Work?
Photo: istockphoto.com
Q: I recently moved to a home with a tankless water heater, and I want to make sure I’m correctly maintaining it. How does a tankless water heater work, and what issues should I look out for?
A: Tankless water heaters are becoming more common in new homes. While hot water heaters like storage tank heaters hold volumes of hot water in an insulated water tank to be used at any time, tankless heaters can produce hot water on demand. This is achieved when cold water enters the tankless unit and then exits almost immediately, fully heated to the target temperature. Depending on if the heater is a gas water heater or an electric water heater, the water is heated by either a gas burner or electrical resistance heating coils.
Despite being more expensive than a storage tank heater, tankless heaters are becoming more popular because they are more efficient over a long period. This means that while homeowners may pay a premium to purchase and install a tankless water heater upfront, in the long run, their energy bill will be lower compared to other water heaters.
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Tankless water heaters heat water directly without using a storage tank.
Photo: istockphoto.com
Traditional water heaters with a water tank store hot water over time to be used at a moment’s notice. Tankless heaters do not need to store water to deliver it to the rest of the house. When a hot water tap is turned on in the house, cold water flows through the tankless heater. As it travels through, the unit is heated by either a gas burner or electric heating coil. It then gets distributed to the tap in the house.
In addition to the electrical efficiency it provides, one of the biggest benefits to a tankless water heater is its size. Since there is no tank to store water, a tankless heater can be easily mounted to a wall. This gives homeowners more space while also giving them an option to hide a tankless heater more easily than a storage tank.
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Tankless water heaters deliver a constant flow of hot water: about 2 to 5 gallons per minute.
Water heaters with the storage tank can provide hot water until the water tank is empty. With a tankless water heater, a home can have a steady flow of hot water at a rate of 2 to 5 gallons per minute. Some gas-powered tankless heaters can produce even higher flows of water than electric ones. On average, this is less water per minute than a storage tank heater; however, storage tank heaters are more likely to run out of hot water, especially when multiple sources are using it simultaneously.
While tankless water heaters provide a steady rate of hot water, problems can arise for some homeowners if hot water is simultaneously needed throughout the house. If someone is taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time, the water may not be as hot, or it’s released with less pressure. To alleviate this issue, some homeowners with larger houses will install two or more tankless water heaters. They can also install separate heaters for different appliances.
Photo: istockphoto.com
The panel adjusts the gas valve, the mixing valve, and the water flow to achieve the desired temperature setting.
Most tankless water heaters have a front-facing panel that allows the user to control its settings. This panel enables homeowners to adjust the gas value to exactly how much they’d like to use. For electric tankless heaters, panels can also control the amount of electricity. This allows homeowners better to manage their water, electric, or gas bill.
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The tankless water heater panel also allows personalized settings, such as the mixing value and the amount of water flow. When installing a tankless heater, homeowners should discuss with their plumber what their preferences are and ask them to set the water heater accordingly. Homeowners should avoid drastically changing their settings if they do not have a precise reason for the shift.
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Some common issues with tankless water heaters include system overload, blockages, and ignition failure.
Though they’re praised for their overall efficiency and generally need less maintenance than storage tank water heaters, tankless water heaters are not without their issues. As mentioned, if homeowners are using too many hot water applications at once, it can overload the unit. The system will then struggle to supply hot water and may shut down altogether. However, this issue can generally be avoided with mindful or preventative practices.
Tankless water heaters can also have issues if their air supply is blocked. When this occurs, the heater is having problems venting, which can also cause overload. Identifying and solving this issue is vital as it’s a major risk that can become a fire hazard.
Another common problem is when the tankless heater fails to ignite. This happens when heaters running on gas have issues with their gas supply. Homeowners should check that their gas and water valves are not fully open, as that’s usually the primary cause of the failure.
Photo: istockphoto.com
Regular maintenance keeps water flowing and removes mineral buildup.
One issue that both storage tank water heaters and tankless heaters share is the potential for mineral buildup. As time goes on, minerals have the potential to build up inside the water heater. The heat causes calcium and magnesium to create a scaly buildup, impairing the water heater’s function.
Homeowners should regularly monitor their water. They can do this by checking on the consistency of the water, as well as checking and changing the water filter. If a water filter is not regularly maintenanced, it can affect the lifespan of the system.
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If you’re experiencing persistent issues with a tankless water heater, call a professional.
Tankless water heaters tend not to need a lot of maintenance and are relatively easy to use. However, there can be issues or complications with them outside routine maintenance. Any homeowner that finds any of the above issues regularly occurring should contact a professional plumber who can easily assess the problem and discuss the best solution with the homeowner.
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How to properly drain water from a water heater: how to empty a boiler
Storage water heaters are a practical solution to the problem of ensuring uninterrupted hot water supply. Such devices are used very widely. Someone connects them only for the period of seasonal shutdown of hot water, someone uses the device constantly. In any case, from time to time the devices have to be cleaned, for which they are turned off and the liquid is drained from the tank.
There are a number of other cases when it is necessary to empty the container of water. It is very important to do it right. Experts know exactly how to drain the water from the water heater so as not to damage the device and not flood the room. Let’s try to understand all the subtleties and nuances of a seemingly very simple process.
Article content:
- To drain or not to drain?
- We understand the electrical appliance device
- We drain the water from the electric heater
- Nuances of the procedure
- Lack of the cutting crane
- Simplified connection scheme
- Lack of the flag on the safety valve
- City
- To repair a breakdown or to replace the anti-corrosion anode, but only if the warranty for the device has already expired.
- For the conservation of a boiler that remains in a room that is not planned to be heated during the cold period. Mandatory for execution if the ambient temperature is guaranteed to drop below +5C. At such values, crystallization processes begin in the water, which will certainly lead to a breakdown of the water heater.
- For cleaning heating elements and tank. The frequency of the cleaning procedure depends on the hardness of the water. On average, it is performed every 1-2 years, otherwise a large amount of scale significantly slows down the process of heating water, which leads to an overrun of electricity and an increase in the cost of its purchase.
- The water heater is under warranty. Draining the water in this case is tantamount to attempting self-repair and will automatically void the warranty. If you find a breakdown of the warranty device, immediately contact the masters.
- Temporary shutdown of the device, for example, for the summer period. If the heater will be located in a room where low temperatures are not expected, it is necessary to leave water in the tank. This will protect it from rapid corrosion. If, having forgotten, the boiler is turned on, it will not be empty, which will prevent not only damage to the device, but also its possible ignition.
- Desire to understand the design of the heater. Some home masters are so inquisitive that they try to conduct “training” plums for no particular reason. You should not do this, because the heater, like any electrical equipment, is not designed for such entertainment.
- Thermostat with double protection, which makes it possible to smoothly regulate the temperature up to + 75C. The maximum overheating is calculated at + 85C, after which the heating element automatically turns off.
- Magnesium anode designed to reduce galvanic corrosion in the inner vessel.
- Thermal heater or heating element, most often a nichrome spiral placed in a copper casing.
- Disconnect the boiler from the mains or disconnect it from the electrical wires. This is a mandatory procedure, failure to comply with which threatens with serious electric shock.
- Close the tap supplying cold water to the water heater.
- We open the valve with hot water, it is best to use the tap closest to the boiler, and bleed the pressure from the device.
- We unscrew the mount on the safety valve flag, which is mounted on the pipe supplying cold water to the heater. To do this, it will be most convenient to use a small Phillips screwdriver.
- We put a deep container under the spout of the safety valve and raise the flag. This is necessary if the spout is not led into a sewer pipe, which is usually done by experienced boiler installers.
- We drain the water, periodically raising and lowering the flag when changing the filled container.
This is possible if the force of atmospheric pressure is sufficient to lift the water. If there is no gurgling of air, indicating a normally running process, in the pipe with hot water, we carry out additional measures.
- We disassemble collapsible connections such as metal-plastic fittings, American or flexible piping. We select the pipe with hot water closest to the water heater, ideally we disassemble the connection located at the outlet of the device. If the connections are non-separable, we put a piece of rubber hose on the spout of the faucet closest to the water heater.
- Blow the water out of the DHW line into the boiler by blowing hard into the hose. You can try to use a compressor or pump, but very carefully. After that, you can drain the water.
- Disconnect the power supply from the device.
- Close the valve to shut off the cold water supply.
- We dump the rests of hot water through the mixer.
- Open the flag on the valve and drain the water. You need to be prepared for the fact that the liquid will drain for a very long time.
- Disconnect the device from the mains or unscrew the electrical wires from it.
- Turn off the tap that supplies water.
- We wind the outlet hose onto the drain cock. In the ideal case, when installing the boiler, a branch was made leading from the tap to the sewer. Then we don’t need a hose.
- Open the drain cock.
- Open the air supply valve.
- Completely de-energize the device.
- We drain the water from the tank in any way possible.
- We substitute a deep container for collecting water under the boiler and disassemble the device.
- We unscrew the bolts on the electrical part of the device. This is a circle located in the center of the bottom of the heater. To make it convenient to work, it is recommended to remove the device from the wall and, turning it over, install it on the floor.
- Carefully take out the heating element, which is fixed on the part released from the bolts. We try to perform the procedure very carefully so as not to damage the gasket.
- We inspect the heating element, if necessary, replace it.
- We take out the anode, if it is in poor condition, we change the part.
- We clean the tank from rust, thoroughly rinse it and dry it thoroughly.
- In the reverse order, we assemble the heater, fix it on the wall.
- height – 2-3 m;
- width – 1.5 m;
- length – 1.9-2 m.
- polycarbonate sheets;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- sheet metal;
- flat slate;
- lining;
- brick.
- the material from which it is made;
- tank capacity.
- to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors of decaying organic matter;
- to minimize the risk of foundation failure.
- gutter reinforced with metal mesh;
- ball valve;
- float valve;
- divider.
- building level;
- tape measure;
- corner;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws.
- Territory marking . To create the right foundation, wooden stakes are hammered in at the outer corners of the future building and string is pulled between them.
- Digging a “pit” . A layer of soil is removed from the marked area, deepening, depending on the type of building, by 15-40 cm.
- Piping site preparation . Dig trenches and level the bottom in such a way as to ensure unhindered flow of waste water in the direction of the drain pit.
- Drain and outlet pipe assembly . A reinforced gutter is installed on a leveled and compacted bottom, not forgetting to maintain the angle of inclination.
- Concrete grouting . To create an even base, pouring is carried out using a level and guides.
- wooden beams with a section of 10 * 10 cm;
- aluminum profiles;
- metal poles.
- manually using buckets;
- by pumping with a circulation pump;
- if there is a water supply system by connecting to it.
- Do-it-yourself polycarbonate summer shower: step-by-step instructions for building
- Country toilet project with shower: scheme selection + construction briefing
- By location – attached to the house or freestanding.
- According to the method of heating water – using an electric heating element, using solar energy, using a wood-burning stove.
- According to the material of the frame and casing for a country shower.
- Finally, they can be summer or winter. Indeed, in the end, it became fashionable to spend time in the country in the winter, and the bathhouse is too global a structure and it is inconvenient to use it every day. Hygiene procedures are highly desirable to carry out daily. Therefore, a winter shower in the country is becoming more and more popular every year.
- Base or foundation.
- Drain and shovel.
- Cabin consisting of frame, floor, pallet and trim.
- Water tank.
- Shower heater.
- Film, oilcloth or even an advertising banner.
- Any impregnated fabrics.
- Wood: lining, boards, slats, wicker rods.
- Polycarbonate of any shades, it is better to use opaque.
- Polymer slate and any plastic sheets.
- Profiled sheet – especially if there are trimmings left from the roof decking or fence construction.
- Flow electric.
- Bulk and storage electric.
- Wood-burning, in the form of an oven or column.
- height
– 2-3 m; - width
– 1.5 m; - length
– 1.9-2 m. - polycarbonate sheets;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- sheet metal;
- flat slate;
- lining;
- brick.
- gutter reinforced with metal mesh;
- float valve;
- divider.
- building level;
- tape measure;
- corner;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws.
- Territory marking
. To create the right foundation, wooden stakes are hammered in at the outer corners of the future building and string is pulled between them. - Digging a “pit”
. A layer of soil is removed from the marked area, deepening, depending on the type of construction, by 15-40 cm. - Preparing a site for laying pipes
. Dig trenches and level the bottom in such a way as to ensure unhindered flow of waste water in the direction of the drain pit. - Drain and outlet pipe installation
. A reinforced gutter is installed on a leveled and compacted bottom, not forgetting to maintain the angle of inclination. - Grouting
. To create an even base, pouring is carried out using a level and guides. -
Outdoor heated shower is ready.
To prevent stagnant water, it is advisable to operate the shower at regular intervals. Before a long break in use, so that the sediment does not clog the watering can, it is recommended to empty the tank completely.
- heated tank;
- crane;
- watering can;
- stands;
- moisture resistant material;
- mat.
- when using such a shower as a summer shower, polycarbonate warms up very well, so in summer the heating elements are practically not used;
- cabin retains heat for a long time;
- polycarbonate is resistant to mold, so this surface is more antiseptic;
- material is durable and has a long service life;
- ease of installation and dismantling;
- a variety of colors, allows you to choose polycarbonate in accordance with the desire of the buyer.
- oval;
- rectangular;
- square;
- flat.
- steel;
- plastic.
- stainless steel tanks;
- in galvanized steel;
- from ordinary metal.
- waterproofing roll materials;
- roofing material;
- gutter reinforced with wire mesh;
- hydrostekliosol.
- polycarbonate;
- slate sheets;
- films;
- lining;
- moisture resistant plywood.
- manual – involves pouring water in buckets;
- pump – connection to the circulation pump;
- plumbing – connection to the water supply system, if any.
- economy – affordable price that justifies its quality;
- environmental friendliness – a heated shower must be made of materials that are harmless to human health;
- fire safety is another requirement, since the heated shower is connected to electricity, all contacts and connections must be made with high quality and in accordance with fire regulations;
- comfort – being in the shower should be pleasant, and the size should be comfortable for bathing;
- modernity is a requirement for the design of the purchased, it must be in harmony with the overall exterior.
- indicator, which is responsible for the level of filling the tank with water;
- heating devices or off timers;
- devices for draining or filling water;
- thermostats.
- The main problem for a shower that is separate from the house is hot or at least warm water – if this can be organized in a building from a common system, then autonomy is needed here
.In this case, the most convenient option is a flow-through electric heater, because almost any country house is connected to the mains, therefore, the installation of such a device is a minor technical problem, where the safety instructions from electric shock must be observed.
- Let’s say right away that this is not some kind of super option – the device does not heat water to a very high temperature, especially if it is cold, but, given the very specifics of a country shower, warm water will be enough for you
. In most cases, even if the price of the device is high, it will not heat water above 40 ⁰C, but you are unlikely to need more. - Another option is the hot water supply from the house
– pipes are laid underground and insulated, but during transportation there are too large heat losses, and if this does not bother you, then this option is better than the first one. - Shower design options
- Tank recommendations
- Determination of the location of the building
- Drainage pit equipment
- Acquisition of necessary materials
- Instructions for the construction of a summer shower
- Step 1: Preparatory work
- Step 2: Construction of the shower enclosure
- Step 3: Installation of a heated tank
- Step 4: Ventilation and insulation of the shower
5
Tips for finishing
- Conclusions and useful video on the topic
- height – 2-3 m;
- width – 1.5 m;
- length – 1.9-2 m.
- polycarbonate sheets;
- moisture resistant plywood;
- sheet metal;
- flat slate;
- lining;
- brick.
- the material from which it is made;
- tank capacity.
- to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors of decaying organic matter;
- minimize the risk of foundation failure.
- gutter reinforced with metal mesh;
- ;
- float valve;
- divider.
- building level;
- tape measure;
- corner;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws.
- Territory marking . To create the right foundation, wooden stakes are hammered in at the outer corners of the future building and string is pulled between them.
- Digging a “pit” . A layer of soil is removed from the marked area, deepening, depending on the type of construction, by 15-40 cm. Dig trenches and level the bottom in such a way as to ensure unhindered flow of waste water in the direction of the drain pit.
- Installation of drain and discharge pipe . A reinforced gutter is installed on a leveled and compacted bottom, not forgetting to maintain the angle of inclination.
- Concrete grouting . To create an even base, pouring is carried out using a level and guides.
- wooden beams with a section of 10 * 10 cm;
- aluminum profiles;
- metal poles.
- manually using buckets;
- by pumping with a circulation pump;
- if there is a water supply system by connecting to it.
- Shut off the cold water supply;
- Turn on the hot water so that there is no vacuum and the water drains;
- Turn off the tap, open the cold water inlet;
- Connect a hose to the cold water inlet and direct it to the sewer to drain the residual liquid.
- Turn on the hot water tap;
- Open the hot water tap;
- Connect the hose and open the release valve.
water or not?
Water heater owners often hear a lot of different advice about the need to drain the water from the boiler.
Most of them are mutually exclusive. For example, if the boiler is fully functional, but for some reason it is rarely used, “knowledgeable craftsmen” are advised to empty the container.
They motivate this by saying that the water will allegedly stagnate and deteriorate. In fact, this is far from the case. It must be understood that an empty tank corrodes faster, since changes in the environment accelerate oxidative processes.
In addition, the anti-corrosion magnesium anode can only work in liquid, without it it is useless.
Thus, the process of corrosion of the inner walls of the tank and heating elements in the absence of water is significantly accelerated.
You can drain the water from the heater yourself, but only if the warranty service of the device has already ended
twice.
In addition, it is good to “rinse” the tank once every two or three months, passing through it about 100 liters of cold water.
If the storage heater is used from time to time, it is necessary to drain water from it only if the temperature in the room where it is located can drop below + 5С
Another thing is if the water contains certain impurities, such as hydrogen sulfide. Such a liquid, which has stood in the tank for some time, acquires an extremely unpleasant pungent odor.
In this case there are no options, any interruption in the use of the boiler will be “waterless”.
Based on the recommendations of the manufacturers, you can make a list of cases when draining the water heater is necessary:
Over time, scale settles on the heating element, and the magnesium anode deteriorates. To replace them and clean the water heater tank, it is necessary to drain the water from the tank at least once every 1-2 years
In some cases, it is unnecessary and even harmful to drain the water from the storage heater. These include the following common situations:
Understanding the design of an electrical appliance
Before you start draining water from the boiler, you need to get acquainted with its design. It is very reliable and yet very simple.
There are only two main elements of the system: a heating element and an internal storage tank. The device can be compared to a thermos with heating, in which water is stored and heated.
That is why in modern devices much attention is paid to the inner lining of the tank.
In order to drain the water from the heater and not damage the device, you need to know its structure. The scheme shows a general view of the storage boiler
The best option is a tank made of stabilized, corrosion-resistant steel coated with glass porcelain. This coating does not peel off and does not pollute the water.
There are, of course, tanks made of other materials that are less resistant to corrosion. Two pipes are placed inside the water heater: for taking hot and supplying cold water.
The first is at the top of the container and the second is at the bottom. The cold liquid entering the lower part enters the jet divider, which makes it possible for it to be distributed throughout the entire volume of the tank as evenly as possible.
It gradually displaces the heated water supplied from the heater into the upper part of the tank.
Thus, the liquids do not mix, which allows you to get water at the right temperature.
In addition, a removable support flange is installed inside the tank, on which several elements are mounted:
Another mandatory element of the system is a safety valve, which is installed on the supply tube.
The device prevents arbitrary draining when the water supply is turned off, relieves excess pressure when it rises in the line, and also equalizes the pressure of the heated liquid and the pressure in the plumbing system.
Draining the electric heater
Since the boiler is a pressurized vessel, it is not easy to drain water from it.
Even if you turn off the supply tap and open the hot water valve, only part of the liquid that is in the DHW pipe can be drained. Everything else will remain in the container.
In order to extract water from there, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air into the tank. Most often this is done through a hot water pipe.
In general, the drain procedure is as follows:
To completely drain the water from the heater tank, the heating element must be removed. When unscrewing the part, be very careful not to damage the gasket
After the water stops flowing from the tank, you need to understand that there is still water in the tank.
This is due to the fact that the cold water pipe is fixed at a certain height, which determines the amount of liquid not drained.
It is important to understand that when changing the heating element or when storing the device, water must not be left in it. It can be completely drained only by unscrewing the heating element in order to pour out the remaining liquid through the mounting hole.
We unscrew the heating element very carefully so as not to damage the gaskets.
Experts draw attention to two important points. Before draining the water, be sure to de-energize the device.
Do not forget that the heater is an electrical device and any manipulation with it requires strict adherence to safety regulations.
Otherwise, electric shock cannot be avoided. Another caveat: the water in the tank must be cooled. Otherwise, the risk of getting burned is too great.
A simplified water heater connection diagram, which is literally completed in an hour. But when draining water from such a system, it takes a very long time to wait.
Unfortunately, this is not always the case in real life. Let’s consider some “non-standard” cases.
No shut-off valve
In the standard installation, a so-called shut-off valve is installed on the supply pipe, which prevents water from entering the heater when it is mixed through the mixer.
If this valve is not installed, great care must be taken when draining the water and disassembling the appliance. If any of the taps is accidentally turned on, water will begin to flow into the open hot water line, and from there to the floor.
The flood in the apartment is guaranteed.
Simplified connection diagram
It is assumed that the installation process is carried out according to the most simplified scheme. As a result, the connection is carried out, literally, within an hour.
However, that’s where the benefits end. In this case, we drain the water as follows:
Some pressure relief valves are available without flags. In this case, you will have to press the spring. The direction of action is shown in the diagram with a red arrow.
Safety valve flag missing
Some safety valve models do not have flags.
It will be a little more difficult to drain water from a boiler equipped with such a device, therefore, when installing, it is worth carefully considering the valve and refusing to install a model without a flag.
If this design is already installed, you will have to manually depress the valve spring. This can be done with a drill or any suitable metal tube.
This procedure is quite troublesome, but quite doable. Some “masters” advise in this case to simply twist the safety valve, drain the water and put it in place.
But the process of depressing the spring is still much easier.
Connection with air cock
This type of connection can be considered the most successful and simplest for draining water. Its main difference is the presence of a valve that supplies air to the system.
The procedure for releasing the container in this case is as follows:
The water will drain, literally, in a matter of minutes.
For convenient draining of water from the storage heater, when connecting it, install a tap for air supply and install a pipe for draining directly into the sewer
Cleaning the water heater
The procedure is carried out once every one or two years, depending on the hardness of the water. In addition to mechanical cleaning of the tank, it is recommended to conduct a careful inspection of the heating element. If there is a thick layer of scale on it, it is better to replace the part with a new one. Cleaning the device will not give the desired result.
A descaled heating element installed in its place will re-contaminate much faster. In addition, it is desirable to change the anode, which weakens the electrochemical corrosion of the inner surface of the tank.
The cleaning procedure is carried out as follows:
To make it easy to clean the tank, the heater is removed from the wall and placed upside down on a horizontal surface or directly into the tub
During the operation of a storage water heater, a situation often arises when it is necessary to drain the water from the tank.
You can perform the procedure yourself, it is only important to follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations. In this case, it must be remembered that the device, which is under warranty, cannot be disassembled.
Therefore, in the event of a breakdown, you should immediately call the masters who will drain the water and take care of troubleshooting.
T50, T75 anhydrous hydrogen fluoride ISO storage tanks
| Кодексов и положений | Мпог и ДОПОГ, МКМПОГ, ASME VIII DIV 1-2017Ed. | |||
| T75 Переносные цистерны ООН КНИЖКИ; UIC; CSC; TC; ОЛР; CFR49; ISO 1496/3; Стандарт ISO 1161 | ||||
| Руководящие принципы для емкость топливного бака | T75 Переносные цистерны ООН | |||
| ISO размер и тип кода | 42K7 | |||
| Максимально допустимый вес | 17510кг | |||
| Собственный вес | 11700кг | |||
| Допускается в стек вес | 1
кг |
|||
| Производство уровень лицензии | Внутри бункера | C3 | ||
| Вне топливного бака | ||||
| Max. Рабочее давление (МПА). | Внутри бункера (МПА) | 0, 75 | ||
| За пределами бака (МПА) | -0, 1(вакуумные) | |||
| Min. Рабочая Tempretrues | Внутри бункера | -196°C | ||
| Вне топливного бака | -40°C | |||
| Расчетное давление (МПА). | Внутри бункера | 0, 8 | ||
| Вне топливного бака | -0.103 | |||
| Дизайн Tempretrues | Внутри бункера | -196°C | ||
| Вне топливного бака | 50 °C | |||
| Основной материал | Крышка | Внутри бункера | SA-240М 304 | |
| Вне топливного бака | Q345R | |||
| Shell | Внутри бункера | SA-240М 304 | ||
| Вне топливного бака | Q345R | |||
| На раме | Для скрытых полостей | Q345-D-GB/T1591 | ||
| Пластины | Q345-D–GB/T1591 | |||
| Перенесены в разделе | Q345-D-GB/T1591 | |||
| Общий размер(рамы)/L*W*ч/мм | 12192*2438*2591 | |||
| Средства массовой информации | Внутри бункера | Спг | ||
| Характеристики печатного материала | Внутри бункера | Взрывных | ||
| Покраска | Рамы | 30мкм до +40мкм +50мкм | ||
| Shell | 30мкм до +40мкм +50мкм | |||
| Общий объем(L) | 45700 | |||
| Типа короткого замыкания | Высокий вакуум многослойной изоляции | |||
| Материал | Алюминиевая фольга | |||
| Предусматриваются ассигнования для перегородки | Пять комплектов уравнительный перегородки должны быть установлены. | |||
| Коррозия миссии | Внутри бункера | 0мм | ||
| Вне топливного бака | 0мм | |||
| Номинальная толщина | Shell | Внутри бункера | 6 мм | |
| Вне топливного бака | 4.0Mm | |||
| Головка блока цилиндров | Внутри бункера | 8 мм | ||
| Вне топливного бака | 6.0Mm | |||
| Давление для проверки давления воздуха | Внутри бункера (МПА) | 1.17 | ||
| Фитинги | Все фитинги, в том числе клапаны и секции трубы должны быть очищены и затем установлен на топливном баке. | |||
| Сварка совместных коэффициент | Внутри бункера | 1 | ||
| Вне топливного бака | 0, 85 | |||
| Проверка на отсутствие утечек и ограждения зоны очистки | После очистки всех клапанов, слепых фланцы, крышек и подключения трубопроводов установлены и проверка герметичности выполняется на16.2 бар с помощью чистой и сухой воздух. Судно будет доставлено в продувке сжатым азотом. Азот будет использоваться (O2 < 0, 5% остаточного кислорода, 0, 5 бар). | |||
| Основные категории опасности | 2.1 | |||
| Дизайн срок службы | 20 лет | |||
| Режим транспортировки | Дороги, море, железнодорожного транспорта | |||
| Предохранительный клапан | Количество | Два | ||
| Заданное значение давления | +8бар | |||
| Индикатор уровня жидкости | Класс | 2.5 | ||
| Одним из | ||||
| Диапазон измерений (КПА) | 0~2.0M h3O | |||
| Устройства загрузки и разгрузки | Газовой фазы совместных | Тип | Фланцевые соединения | |
| Номинальный диаметр | DN50 | |||
| Жидкая фаза совместных | Тип | Фланцевые соединения | ||
| Номинальный диаметр | DN50 | |||
| Манометр | Количество | Одним из | ||
| Диапазон измерений (МПА) | 0~1.6 | |||
| Precision | 1.6 класса | |||
1. Внутренний слой – 6 или 8 мм толщиной Q235-B стальной пластиной, по сравнению с обычными толщиной 5 мм однослойных бак, сила значительно улучшилось;
2. Наружный слой -закаленное стекло толщиной 4.0mm волокон и более хороший компрессионной и сейсмических сопротивление. Она имеет надежную защиту от коррозии и коррозии;
3. Уникальная технология находится между внутренней и наружной слои для достижения зазора 0.1-1мм, с тем чтобы исключить скрытые опасности в корневом каталоге;
4. Для обнаружения утечек 24 часов для контроля для предотвращения утечки в результате рисков безопасности;
5. Широко используется для хранения и транспортировки в молочных продуктов, напитков, вино, с помощью функции по борьбе с сейсмических, взрыв, утечку и системы охлаждения двигателя.
На заводе рабочее совещание:
3. Нескольких стилей для ISO танкер емкость:
4. Предложения о разработке 20 футов ISO цистерны:
—Net: Не менее 20 куб; Оболочку цистерны материалов с использованием Wisco Q235 высокого качества углеродистой стали 6 мм перегородки;
—Два отверстия для подачи, больше крышки люка, 2 NOS. Клапаны сброса давления( дыхательный клапан), В конце нижней части, DN80 Клапан сброса давления(разгрузочный клапан). Винт из отверстия и клапаны принять винты из нержавеющей стали, одна плата coating на верхней части бака молибден светоотражающей лентой красного цвета;
—Рамки выполнен из высококачественной стали, каждый из них лестницу на назад и вперед. С помощью двух кислоты, две трубки к 4гг огнетушители.
5. Дополнительные детали для танкера емкость:
Объем: 20 куб метров до 52 куб метров
Материал: Углеродистой стали и алюминия/материал из нержавеющей стали
HYDROFLUDRIC Medidum: КИСЛОТА HCI 32 %, каустическая сода NaOH 32 %, NaCl. NaClO и т. Д. химические жидкости.
6. Краткое введение в нашем заводе:
Провинции Хэнань Jushixin транспортного оборудования Co Ltd – это профессиональный производитель ISO цистерны, таких как стандартное баков, электрические нагревательные баки, холодильными танков, food grade танков, отражательной танков, замены танков, баках, h3O2 Цистерны, AHF танков, битума цистерны, разные типы кузова танков и т. Д., и 10ft танков, офшорных танков, IBC/SBC, и т. Д. , с высоким уровнем машин и оборудования, Мощные R&D и элитные группы продаж, мы построили в течение длительного деловые отношения со многими всемирно Известного предприятия. Пожалуйста свяжитесь с нами при любой interset.
7. гибкого обслуживания мы обещали для каждого элемента с нашего завода:
> > > с одного полного жизненного цикла;
> > > Наш автомобиль пользователи получат 24 часов источник бесперебойного “всего путешествия”;
> > > КХЦ& ISO соглашения 1- Летнего гарантийного срока, срок службы дальнего света обещание;
> > > Маленький заказ может быть принят;
> > > любого цвета и Логотипы;
> > > размер продукта + Спецификации могут быть разработаны в качестве Ваших потребностей.
8. При покупке направляющих втулок клапанов
**Пожалуйста отправьте нам свой запрос;
** Мы должны ответить вам с котировки в течение 12 часов;
** Мы ведем переговоры о конфигурации, вам потребуется;
**Утверждение tech data Европа Подписать контракт (P/I) Европа 30% (или л/с выдачей)→ производства;
**Производственного процесса обновлено новости → Завершение производства;
**Баланс оплаты Европа Ex works | Тихий океан и Австралия отгрузки Таможенного досмотра и Австралия A/S службы на 1 Год.
step-by-step construction instructions © Geostart
Heading:
Cabins, toilets, outdoor showers
Do-it-yourself heated outdoor shower: step-by-step instructions for building
Country life attracts with the opportunity to enjoy fresh air and unity with nature. Outside the city, everything is fine, except for the difficulties with taking hygiene procedures. Agree, it would be nice to make a summer heated shower with your own hands to solve this problem?
This option will help increase the comfort of staying in the country, but it will not greatly affect the family budget. We will show you how to realize this idea.
Options for shower structures
Comfort and ease of use of the design depend on how competently the outdoor shower is designed. The task of a zealous owner is to build an economical, easily designed and at the same time the most functional shower equipped with heating.
The simplest version is an open shower.
An outdoor outdoor shower is a frame-mounted block or a modular container, one of the walls of which is adjacent to the main building right angle.
Do you prefer closed designs that are convenient to use both in the warm season and in the cold months? Build a stationary outdoor shower with a simple heating system. It can be a frame structure or a capital building.
The main advantage of this solution is that in warm weather the water in the tank is heated by sunlight, and in the cold months with the help of a heating element
The indicated dimensions are convenient when building a structure from wooden planks. Taking into account the thickness of the walls in the finished form, the structure in terms of area is approximately 2 * 1.5 m, of which an area of \u200b\u200b1 sq. m, and under the locker room – 60 * 40 cm.
When using planks of standard sizes, the material is consumed almost without residue.
In addition to wooden boards, the most commonly used building materials for cabin construction are:
When choosing a facing material, it is important to focus on the exterior of the site so that the building harmoniously complements the already created architectural ensemble.
Polycarbonate shower cubicle:
Recommendations for choosing a tank
You can buy a ready-made water tank by choosing one of the models you like, or you can make a tank yourself from improvised materials, for example, from a 200-liter barrel.
There are several types of tanks available on the market, depending on the form of execution: square and rectangular, flat and oval
Finished tanks can be made of plastic, metal or galvanized steel. On sale there are containers of simple design, the design of which has a bevel and holes for installing a heating element, and models that are already equipped with heating elements.
When choosing a tank, you should be guided by two criteria:
A 100 l tank is sufficient for a family of two. And for the adoption of water procedures by three or four family members, it is better to set the option to 200 liters.
Would you like to make your own heated tank? There is nothing difficult in this. Buy any suitable container. Separately, on the construction market, you purchase heating elements.
As a heating element, a heating element for 1-2 kW is suitable, equipped with a temperature controller, for installation of which you will need two nuts and a ½ inch drive
5 to 2 kW. Their only drawback is that they are not able to maintain the set temperature.
For the installation of a heating element in the center of the tank, after holding 15 cm from the bottom, make a hole. At the bottom of the container, closer to the edge or in the center of the bottom, another hole is made for the arrangement of the drain. The outer part of the heating element is hidden in the wiring box.
To drill a hole for a heating element with a nut, a drill D 40 mm is required, for an overflow of ½ inch, a drill D 20-21 mm.
Determining the location of the building
To ensure that water flows quickly, it is better to place the building on a slightly elevated area. For this purpose, a flat part of the site is quite suitable. The main thing is that she should not be in a strong lowland.
The best option for placing a summer shower is an open area well-lit by the sun, which is located at a slight distance from other buildings
When choosing a place, take into account the moment that electricity is supplied to the future building. It will be required to power the heating element, which will act as a heating element.
Wooden shower on a slope:
It is not recommended to place an outdoor shower too far from home. Not everyone likes to carry out long runs along the street after water procedures, preferring to immediately find themselves in a warm, enclosed space.
Pit equipment
From the point of view of biochemistry, it is a gross mistake to bring wastewater into a common pit from a shower and an outdoor toilet. Under the cabin it is necessary to build a separate pit. To equip a summer shower, which is supposed to be used only from time to time, a drain pit with a capacity of no more than two cubes is sufficient.
When calculating the required volume of the structure, follow the rule that its capacity should be 2.5 times greater than the contents of the water tank
the buildings.
This option of arrangement allows solving two problems at once:
For the construction of a drain pit, a pit is dug to a depth of 2-2.5 m. With such a depth, the runoff will be discharged into the soil below the fertile layer. Due to this, the soil microanimal will not suffer from such a “neighborhood”.
To make drainage, the bottom is lined with gravel-sand filling. The thickness of the drainage layer should be 20-30 cm.
Clay should not be used when creating a water-resistant layer, as during operation, as a result of the natural erosion process, it can simply break the drainage system.
To avoid shedding of the walls of the drain pit, they must be laid out in several rows of bricks or decorated with used tires
The upper part of the drain pit must be tightly closed. The lid can be built from a wooden shield or a piece of sheet metal.
Acquisition of necessary materials
In addition to the manufacture or purchase of a heating tank, it is necessary to purchase plastic water pipes Ø 50 mm. It is convenient to use a flexible silicone hose for water supply.
To equip the material system you will also need:
To make a foundation pour when arranging a cesspool, cement with a marking of M150 and above is required. The drain can be covered with waterproofing roll materials or hydroglass.
For the manufacture of a wooden floor in the shower, it is best to use a tongue-and-groove board “forty”, treated with a water-polymer emulsion or oil white.
For the final finishing and arrangement of the bathroom, you will need paint for exterior and interior work, spacious shelves for bathroom accessories and hooks for clothes
The following tools will be needed to erect the structure:
For preliminary marking of the territory, it is also necessary to stock up on a skein of twine and wooden pegs.
Instructions for building a summer shower
There are no particular difficulties in building an outdoor shower on your own in the country. The only stumbling block for a novice master may be the question of how to mount a heated tank and how to organize a waste disposal system.
Step 1: Conduct preparatory work
The amount of work involved in site preparation depends on the type of structure being built. If you plan to build a temporary frame structure, to prepare the base, it is enough to remove a 15-centimeter layer of earth from the marked area, and then level the bottom of the dug “pit” and fill it with sifted sand.
When installing a shower cubicle on very heaving soils, in order to reduce the risk of tipping over, the thickness of the non-foaming “cushion” of gravel and sand should be increased to 30-40 cm.
When constructing a wooden pouring floor over gravel, be prepared for the fact that during bathing you will experience some discomfort due to a slight draft
Are you planning to build a permanent country shower with heating? For its construction will require laying the foundation. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of materials used. For example, for a brick building, a foundation deepened by 30-40 cm is quite enough.
The foundation is laid in the following sequence:
When constructing a frame made of wood, it is advisable to raise the shower cubicle above the ground by 20-30 cm.0003
When equipping the floor between the shower cabin and the dressing room, in order to minimize the likelihood of water leakage, it is worth providing a low threshold.
Step 2: Building the shower enclosure
A simple frame structure will require the installation of support legs. Since a tank filled with water will be installed on the frame, the frame should be made strong enough.
Support posts can be made from the following materials:
To prolong the “life” of wooden structural elements, it is desirable to treat the workpieces twice with a moisture-repellent and antiseptic composition. For greater reliability, the lower part of the supporting pillars, which is planned to be buried in the ground, should be treated with bituminous mastic.
In accordance with the markings on the dimensions of the shower, supports are installed at the corners of the foundation and every 1.5 m of the contour.
To facilitate the work of burying the support posts, pre-drill holes in the ground 60-80 cm deep and slightly larger than the size of the posts. Depending on the type of execution of the lower ends of the supports, they can be buried by driving in or by screwing into the ground.
When arranging a doorway, two adjacent support posts are placed, maintaining the distance of the width of the door. Mechanisms and a frame are attached to them, which acts as the frame of the future door.
To maintain a warm and comfortable atmosphere inside the room and prevent drafts, special sealing mechanisms are mounted on the door. To simplify the task, the frame is first assembled on a horizontal, flat surface. The finished structure is attached to the supports with long bolts. To create a log floor in the shower, dressing is performed inside the frame structure. The roof in the shower cabin is made simple and sloping.
Step 3: Installation of a heated tank
A tank is installed on the roof of the structure, the outer walls of which are painted black. Dark colors attract the sun’s rays well, thereby contributing to the rapid heating of the surface.
Prefabricated shower tanks already equipped with tap holes. If you make a tank on your own, for example, from a barrel, then before installing it on the roof in one of the walls, you must first make a tap for the thread. The diameter of the hole must correspond to the cross section of the branch pipe connected to the ball valve with a watering can installed.
In order to increase the speed and efficiency of water heating inside the tank located on the roof, it is chosen in dark color water pressure.
Since the heating elements are very sensitive to anhydrous environments and can even burn out in case of lack of water, it is important to control the fill level of the tank. To do this, a plumbing valve is mounted on the installed tank, which indicates the amount of water.
Hose, faucet and watering can are attached to the bottom of the tank. In order for clean water to flow from the watering can, and not sediment, the selective pipe must be placed higher. In this case, the hot supply should be 1-2 cm above the mark of the source of selection.
The same requirement must be observed when installing the supply pipe in order to ensure thermosiphon circulation inside the tank. At the same time, do not forget to take into account the moment that the mouth of the supply pipe should be carried as far as possible from the source of the outlet.
Wooden cabin with 250 l tank. The tank is equipped with a built-in heating element, heating is carried out from the mains.
Cabin ready. It remains to install a water tank and make a connection for heating.
Step 4: Ventilate and insulate the shower
One of the most common mistakes in outdoor showers is building thick walls that don’t allow air to pass through at all. Insufficient air flow contributes to the formation of mold in the corners and the spread of fungus on the walls.
To ensure air circulation and water runoff, the floor is made with slots between the boards, and a gap is left in the upper part of the wall.
Prefabricated pallets can be used for drain and flooring.
For a summer shower, steel pallets with a size of 1000*1000 mm are most often chosen, which have a simple shape with low sides. Immediately, until the foam has hardened, lay the pallet. Squeezed out excess is carefully removed.
At the installation stage, it is also important to think about how to ensure the water supply.
Water can be filled into the tank in one of three ways:
If funds allow, it is better to make the water supply automated so that each time you need to fill the tank you do not have to climb up the ladder with a bucket of water.
When planning to use the shower cabin during the cold months, it is worth taking care of the thermal insulation of the structure. The easiest way to solve this problem is by lining the walls with extruded polystyrene foam plates.
Tips for finishing
For interior decoration choose facing materials with increased moisture resistance: PVC film, linoleum, plastic. When choosing a wooden sheathing, the surface must be treated with drying oil and painted without fail.
To make the adoption of hygiene procedures more convenient and safe, a grate knocked together from wooden boards is installed on the floor, on top of which a rubber mat is laid. Wood preparation is the same. If you want to increase its resistance to shoe wear, treat the material with an acrylic compound used for repairing bathtubs.
It is desirable to separate the dressing room and the bathing area with a curtain made of waterproof textile fabric or PVC film
If desired, both the inner and outer walls of the cladding material can be painted and decorated with patterns. The original design will turn the shower not only into a place for taking water procedures, but also into a decorative element of a suburban area.
Construction and repair of frame structure:
Shower tank from an old washing machine:
Organization of the heating system:
Heated summer shower ready. To prevent stagnant water, it is advisable to operate the shower at regular intervals. Before a long break in use, so that the sediment does not clog the watering can, it is recommended to empty the tank completely.
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author Rybakov Semyon |
do-it-yourself summer shower
How to make a warm shower. Do-it-yourself warm shower in the country with heating. We install the tank and organize the water supply
Progress is moving forward and by now the very idea of creating a summer shower for a summer cottage with heating does not look intimidating. After all, water in the country is a vital necessity – this statement is an undeniable truth for the vast majority of owners of summer cottages.
Until recently, hot water was far from being as life-affirming as cold water, and many summer residents were forced to consider it almost a kind of luxury that only the elite can afford. Although many were not going to put up with such a situation and literally on their knees came up with various ways to heat water with the least effort.
The problem is rather in choosing the right shower option. Moreover, the variety of summer residence options also dictates its own laws. For owners of land with a small summer-type garden house, who come mainly to cultivate the land and care for the garden, having, for example, a wood-burning column will become a meaningless luxury. For them, a heated country shower may well look like a compact portable suitcase. The choice of this kind of model will not present difficulties, they are widely represented on sale. And the water for them, if desired, can be heated with the most ordinary boiler.
The one for whom a dacha is a place where he spends almost half of his time with pleasure, is unlikely to be satisfied with a water heater in the form of a boiler. He will want more coziness and comfort, and the question – how to make a shower in the country – will rise in all its acuteness.
There are a great many options for installing a shower with heated water in the country house. Listed below are all the main types that exist today.
Compact versions
It makes sense to start the review with the simplest options, moving gradually to more complex ones.
The most primitive type of summer shower is the so-called mobile shower. It is a small container of no more than 20 liters, made of durable flexible plastic. Attached to it is a hose with a shower head. Water of the required temperature is poured into the container. If you pour water in the morning, then by lunchtime it will already warm up to a comfortable heat. It is enough just to hang the container just above the head and open the valve so that water flows from the watering can. You can take a shower in any place where it is possible to attach a container.
A fairly popular model is a garden shower that does not even require an electrical connection for its operation. Only a bucket with a volume of 10 liters is enough. The device itself is a mat, which is also a foot pump. One hose from it descends into a container of water, and at the end of the other there is a watering can. If you stomp evenly on the rug, then the long-awaited water will pour out of the watering can. You can wash both on the lawn and in the basin in the house. To get warm water, you can use any electric heater or, more simply, a boiler.
More advanced models are usually equipped with electric pumps so that you do not have to bother yourself with unnecessary physical exercises. Similar portable shower models also fit in any container of water. As a rule, they are able to raise water to a height of two or more meters, which is quite enough for a comfortable bath.
The most versatile models of this type also include an electric heater. They operate on the same principle – the device is placed in a tank of water, the cord is plugged into an outlet, and after 10-20 minutes, when the indicator shows readiness (that is, the water temperature rises to about + 45 ° C), you can take a warm shower. Such a water heater for giving with a shower is indispensable when cool rainy weather sets in in the summer.
Portable options
Even when using the simplest mobile devices, it is usually more comfortable for people to take a shower in a place closed from prying eyes. Therefore, you should immediately consider the design of the so-called garden showers.
A shower cabin for a summer residence in these cases is a frame made of lightweight plastic pipes covered with any opaque material. It can be either a film or a colored tarpaulin or plastic. On the ground, such structures are most often fixed on reinforcement pins driven into the ground. If such a shower is transferred every week – two to a new place, then you don’t even need to take care of the drain – the ecology of the site is unlikely to suffer. You can use any of the above portable designs in it, and water is heated either with the help of the sun, or in bad weather, any electric heating element is used.
In principle, when installing a septic tank or building a cesspool, nothing prevents a garden shower from being installed in a permanent place. In this case, it is possible to use one of the portable water heater models to heat water.
Stationary structures
Among such structures, the choice is also quite diverse. They may vary:
In the latter case, it is not necessary to arrange an outdoor shower. You can allocate a small place in the house for a shower device, especially if it is possible to connect it to an existing water supply system.
If we have in mind a more or less reliable design that can be used, if desired, not only in warm summer time, but also in spring, autumn and even winter, then the main components of the shower are:
Country chores certainly require the constant availability of water. This is watering the garden, and a shower after work. And if the house …
Strong foundation
A heated cottage shower without a foundation can only be installed in the case of the aforementioned lightweight portable design or the use of special modular shower enclosures. They are installed directly on the ground, and special adjustable legs make it possible to compensate, if necessary, for all possible soil movements. But such structures are very expensive, and it is quite possible to build a stationary one, using 2-4 times less money to purchase the necessary component materials.
Whatever it is, it still weighs a little. Therefore, the foundation for it is usually used columnar. As pillars, you can use either foundation blocks raised above the ground at a height of 20 to 30 cm, or pieces of asbestos-cement pipes, 80 to 150 cm long. It is better to hammer them to a depth slightly exceeding the layer of annual soil freezing. You can also make the pillars yourself by pouring pre-constructed formwork with concrete.
Drainage pit
The easiest and at the same time expensive way to arrange a safe and reliable drain for an outdoor shower is to use a septic tank with regular replacement of its fill. But it is more reasonable to arrange a drain hole.
Moreover, for reasons of ecology and safety for health, it is better to arrange it a few meters from the proposed location of the shower.
The size of the drain pit can vary from 1 to 2 cubic meters. In any case, in comparison with the water tank, the volume of the drain pit should be twice its size. For a drainage device, the best option would be to fill it with expanded clay or broken bricks.
shower cover
The construction of a shower cabin in the country house is perhaps the most creative part of the whole process. After all, all this prose of life in the form of heating elements, tanks, wood-burning columns and other things does not allow fantasy to roam. While, making out a booth, you can safely implement your most daring design ideas.
The frame itself can be metal, plastic or wood. You can choose from what is at hand or from what the mind and soul are inclined to. It is only necessary to remember that all wooden parts must be carefully treated with any rot biocide and varnished before installation.
When choosing the height of the frame, you should proceed from the fact that in the shower it is not bad to occasionally raise your hands and wash your hair comfortably. On average, it can be 2.2-2.5 meters. The dimensions of the building itself are determined only by the future users of the shower. Usually it consists of two parts: the shower cabin itself and a small room in which a dressing room is arranged, and sometimes a water heater (wood or electric) is placed. If we talk about the minimum dimensions, then they can be about 100 by 190 see
The following materials are most commonly used for sheathing:
A regular plank shower floor is only suitable for areas with sandy soil and when using the shower only in warm weather. Otherwise, there will be a noticeable blow from below. In other cases, the use of a pallet is necessary. It can be bought ready-made and connected through a siphon with a flexible hose to a pipe that will go to the main drain pit. Or you can make it yourself out of concrete with a small drain hole.
Water tank
The volume of the tank is chosen based on the number of people who will use the shower regularly. For one person, an average of about 50 liters of water is enough.
Shower tanks are available in plastic and metal. The latter are better heated from the sun, but with a do-it-yourself water heating device, this item is not so significant. But plastic tanks have many other advantages: they do not react with water, they are not able to rust. They have little weight. Often they are sold in a square shape, which allows them to be placed on the roof to save on covering the top of the shower. After all, shower tanks are most often placed on top, on the shower, in order to be able to heat up the water inside them additionally from solar heat.
If you do not know how to choose a suitable shower tank, then it makes sense to look at models with a built-in heating element – a heating element. They are called so – water tanks with heated water and are, in fact, ordinary boilers. The heating temperature in them is set by a thermostat, and with the help of a thermostat, the heating is turned off if necessary. True, in this case, in addition to connecting the shower to electricity and plumbing, it is necessary to use an automatic control system for filling the tank with water.
The water we drink or use for domestic needs must be clean. This is not a whim, but a vital necessity. From…
Different types of water heaters
When constructing a warm shower for your home or garden, it is difficult to do without a water heater in our climatic conditions. There are the following types of these useful constructions:
Electric instantaneous water heater is usually used in suburban areas where there is access to a central water supply. It is easily mounted on any vertical surface and is able to quickly provide even a hot shower in the country house under the most adverse weather conditions. The downside of instantaneous water heaters for summer cottages is a rather large load on the power grid.
The storage water heater is much more energy efficient, but the shower water is heated much more slowly. Most models are equipped with a thermostat that allows you to set the desired temperature.
Tankless water heater is ideal for summer cottages where there is no central water supply. Based on the name, water can be poured into it either manually or using a pump, which is preferable. In most cases, a bulk heater for a summer residence is equipped with a heating element – a tubular electric heater. And having the design of a thermos, it allows you to keep the dialed temperature for quite a long time.
If you don’t want to mess with electricity, there is a great alternative to heat water in your country house using a wood-burning stove.
Of course, this is not an ordinary stove, but a wood-burning stove. This design is also sometimes called titanium. A wood-burning water heater can also be connected to the local water supply, but it can be used in conjunction with a tank installed on the shower roof.
If such a heating mechanism is installed in a room next to a shower cabin, then with appropriate insulation, it can play the role of a heater. In this case, with a not too large heating area, the shower can be used even in winter. An even better idea would be to install a wood-burning water heater along with a shower in an extension to the house. In this case, the area of the heated territory will even expand, and after a warm shower you will not have to go out into the frosty street.
Of course, it is difficult to do without heating the water in the shower in the country house. Yes, this is not necessary, given the variety of choice of devices focused on solving this problem. After all, staying in the country should bring only joy and satisfaction.
Country life attracts with the opportunity to enjoy fresh air and unity with nature. Outside the city, everything is fine, except for the difficulties with taking hygiene procedures. Agree, it would be nice to make a summer heated shower with your own hands to solve this problem?
This option will help increase the comfort of staying in the country, but it will not greatly affect the family budget. We will show you how to realize this idea.
The article discusses in detail the best design solutions and technologies for erecting booths. Effective help will be useful tips on choosing the materials required in construction, arranging a drain, and simple and quick heating of water. The information presented is supported by photo and video applications.
The comfort and ease of use of the design depends on how competently the outdoor shower is designed. The task of a zealous owner is to build an economical, easily designed and at the same time the most functional shower equipped with heating.
The simplest option is an open shower.
Outdoor outdoor shower is a frame-folding block or a modular container, one of the walls of which is adjacent to the main building
right angle.
Do you prefer closed designs that are convenient to use both in the warm season and in the cold months? Build a stationary outdoor shower with a simple heating system. It can be a frame structure or a capital building.
The main advantage of this solution is that in warm weather the water in the tank is heated by sunlight, and in the cold months with the help of a heating element
The indicated dimensions are convenient when building a structure from wooden planks. Taking into account the thickness of the walls in the finished form, the structure in terms of area is approximately 2 * 1.5 m, of which an area of \u200b\u200b1 sq. m, and under the locker room – 60 * 40 cm.
When using planks of standard sizes, the material is consumed almost without residue.
In addition to wooden boards, the most commonly used building materials for cabin construction are:
When choosing a facing material, it is important to focus on the exterior of the site so that the building harmoniously complements the already created architectural ensemble.
Polycarbonate shower enclosure:
Image gallery
Purchase of necessary materials
In addition to the manufacture or purchase of a heating tank, it is necessary to purchase plastic water pipes Ø 50 mm. It is convenient to use a flexible silicone hose for water supply.
To equip the material system you will also need:
To make a foundation pour when arranging a cesspool, cement with a marking of M150 and above is required. The drain can be covered with waterproofing roll materials or hydroglass.
For the manufacture of a wooden floor in the shower, it is best to use a tongue-and-groove board “forty”, treated with a water-polymer emulsion or oil white.
Finishing and decorating the bathroom will require paint for exterior and interior work, spacious shelves for bathroom accessories and hooks for clothes
The following tools are needed to erect the structure:
For preliminary marking of the territory, it is also necessary to stock up on a skein of twine and wooden pegs.
Instructions for building a summer shower
There are no special difficulties in building your own summer shower in the country. The only stumbling block for a novice master may be the question of how to mount a heated tank and how to organize a waste disposal system.
Step 1: Preparatory work
The amount of work involved in site preparation depends on the type of structure being built. If you plan to build a temporary frame structure, to prepare the base, it is enough to remove a 15-centimeter layer of earth from the marked area, and then level the bottom of the dug “pit” and fill it with sifted sand.
When installing a shower cubicle on very heaving soils, in order to reduce the risk of tipping over, the thickness of the non-foaming “cushion” of gravel and sand should be increased to 30-40 cm.
When constructing a wooden pouring floor over a gravel bed, be prepared for the fact that during bathing you will experience some discomfort due to a slight draft
Planning to build a permanent heated country shower? For its construction will require laying the foundation. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of materials used. For example, for a brick building, a foundation deepened by 30-40 cm is quite enough.
The foundation is laid in the following sequence:
For interior decoration, facing materials with increased moisture resistance are chosen: PVC film, linoleum, plastic. When choosing a wooden sheathing, the surface must be treated with drying oil and painted without fail.
To make the adoption of hygiene procedures more convenient and safe, a grate knocked together from wooden boards is installed on the floor, on top of which a rubber mat is laid. Wood preparation is the same. If you want to increase its resistance to shoe wear, treat the material with an acrylic compound used for repairing bathtubs.
It is desirable to separate the dressing room and the bathing area with a curtain made of waterproof textile fabric or PVC film
If desired, both the inner and outer walls of the cladding material can be painted and decorated with patterns. The original design will turn the shower not only into a place for taking water procedures, but also into a decorative element of a suburban area.
Additional interesting options for arranging a garden shower are offered in these articles:
Not every dacha has a shower, although it is practically indispensable here. After working in the garden or around the house, everyone wants to freshen up. This is where the economical and easy-to-design outdoor heated shower comes to the rescue. The main advantage of this type of shower is that it is used both in cold and warm seasons, unlike an ordinary summer shower. We will consider recommendations for the construction of a heated shower with your own hands below.
Manufacturing features of combined garden shower with heating
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations that will help you build a combined heated shower at your summer cottage. The main advantage of this shower is that on warm days it is used as an outdoor shower and does not turn on heating, while saving electricity, and when it is cold outside, the water in the shower is heated with a heating element.
Building a shower with your own hands is not a difficult process, if you carefully understand everything. The main advantages of such showers are the availability of their arrangement, due to the minimum number of components, and if the shower is properly decorated, it will become a real highlight of the summer cottage.
The process of bathing in the shower after hard work has a positive effect on human health, relieves fatigue, relieves stress and relaxes. It is possible to buy a ready-made shower, but its independent production will cost several times cheaper.
When choosing a place where the shower will be located, one should proceed from the fact that in summer the water should warm up well, therefore it is not recommended to place the shower in the shade, since the water tank must be constantly exposed to direct sunlight.
The best option for the location of the shower – an open area of the garden. But, it should be noted that electricity must be supplied to the shower, which will provide heating of the water using a heating element. Garden shower includes:
When constructing a shower of this type, after choosing a place, it is necessary to install racks, and make sure that the structure is strong and stable. A dark tank is installed at the top of the shower. Since it is he who will attract heat at a time when the water is heated by the sun. A hose, a faucet and a watering can are installed at the bottom of the tank. Installing a rubber mat on the floor will make bathing more comfortable, and the racks are covered with moisture-resistant material, such as film or shower curtains. Such a shower is perfect for swimming in the summer or spring season.
Another way to arrange the shower is its extension to one of the walls of the cottage. You should carefully consider the choice of the wall to which it will adjoin, since the sun’s rays should fall straight on the tank.
In this case, the tank is connected to the wall and clings to it, a frame, hoses, a watering can and a faucet are installed, electricity is supplied. To protect the wall from moisture, it must be made moisture resistant. To do this, overlay it with tiles or fix the film. But, keep in mind that the water will not warm up well in such a shower, so you will need to use heating more often, since the shade from the house does not provide good access to the sun.
Heated outdoor shower:
manufacturing instructions
We offer to consider the construction of a heated polycarbonate summer shower. Before proceeding to study the instructions for its manufacture, let’s get acquainted with the main advantages of the equipment of such a shower:
When constructing a heated summer shower, it is necessary to plan in advance the location and make a project.
The place where the shower will be installed must first be leveled. Water must flow downhill, so this aspect also requires organization. The surface of the drain must be lined with a waterproof material, such as concrete, roofing material or waterproofing foil. To prevent unpleasant odors and ensure ventilation, a special mesh should be laid over the drain. If the shower will be used by more than three people, it is recommended to build a drain hole into which water will flow. The recommended depth of the pit is from two to three meters, and the distance from the pit to the shower is at least three meters. Sand or gravel is laid at the bottom of the pit. Use old car tires or a plastic sewer barrel as walls. The drain pit must always be closed, for example with wooden boards, for the safety of animals or small children.
When the preliminary work is completed, proceed with the construction of the structure frame. To do this, it is recommended to use an aluminum profile, which will help to give the soul the desired shape. Use polycarbonate sheets eight to sixteen millimeters thick. A water tank is placed on the roof, and to ensure the operation of the shower in the cold season, you need to install a heated tank or an autonomous water heater.
Heated outdoor shower tanks are different. In relation to the form they are divided into:
Depending on the material from which the tank is made, they are:
Steel water tanks include:
When choosing the size of the tank, you should be guided by how many people will bathe in the shower. The average recommended volume for a family of four is 100 liters. It is better to choose dark-colored tanks, as they have higher thermal insulation properties. Heated tanks are equipped with special taps and heating elements that are connected to electricity. Therefore, they do not require preparation; after purchase, they are safely installed on the roof of the shower.
To increase the heating efficiency even more, a polycarbonate roof should be installed on top of the tank, which will create a greenhouse effect and keep the water warm.
Another mandatory component of each tank is a device that indicates the amount of water in the tank. Since the heating elements are very sensitive to an anhydrous environment, and burn out with a lack of water, this parameter must be constantly adjusted.
To equip the floor in such a shower, a drain pipe should be installed and a small threshold should be made separating the shower part from the dressing room, in which clothes, towels and soap products will be stored. A pallet is installed on the floor, and then a rubber mat.
The door must be made of polycarbonate; for this, its frame is preliminarily constructed, to which the hinges are attached. After installing the polycarbonate, a handle is attached to it. With a moisture-proof bath screen, separate the washing and changing areas.
To make the shower more beautiful and inviting, it is recommended to decorate the area nearby with beautiful flowers, decorative figures or mosaics.
1. When choosing a place for a shower, make sure that there are no strong drafts that will lead to the possibility of getting sick, the person using the shower.
2. The volume of the drain hole must be two and a half times the size of the water tank.
3. Do not place drains and septic materials directly under the shower cubicle, they must be installed near it. This procedure will reduce the risk of unpleasant odors.
5. Do not use clay in the construction of the impermeable layer, as due to its erosion, it will clog the drainage system.
6. To increase the efficiency of water runoff, install the shower stall on an elevated area, if available.
8. The minimum cubicle size is one square metre, but additional dressing room space will be required.
9. Practically, the most convenient size of a heated summer shower is a cabin 190 cm and 160 cm wide.
10. Watch out for the strength of the base frame of the shower cabin, as a tank filled with water is installed on top. It must be strong and withstand heavy loads.
11. One of the following materials is required to make the outer shower enclosure:
12. It is desirable that the cladding material harmoniously fit into the exterior of the entire area. It is possible to paint it or apply decorative patterns that will make the shower not only a place for bathing, but also a decorative element of the cottage.
13. Make sure the door closes tightly, because drafts are not allowed in the shower room.
14. Since the shower door is constantly exposed to moisture, it is recommended to install special sealing mechanisms on it to save heat inside the room.
15. To use the shower in winter, it is required to resort to its insulation. For this, any insulation in the form of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is suitable. To fix the insulation, a film is used that is laid on top of it and fixed with a stapler.
Features of the construction of the heating system, floor and installation of the water tank
The location of the water tank – support pillars that are above the shower. In order to save money, it is possible to buy an ordinary barrel of one hundred or two hundred liters, and independently arrange it for the soul. Before installing the tank, a threaded outlet should be made in it, into which a ball valve with a watering can will be installed.
There are three ways to fill in water:
For the construction of the water supply, use metal-plastic pipes. Adjustment of the water flow is carried out using a tap or water pressure. It is better to worry about installing a plumbing valve that will regulate the amount of water in the tank.
To install the floor in a heated outdoor shower, it is recommended to make a concrete screed. Next, a wooden pallet is installed, on which it is convenient to stand with bare feet. It is possible to install a wooden floor without a cement screed, but in this case, a small draft will appear, causing discomfort when swimming in winter.
Another way to equip a shower is to install a commercially available sanitary tray that has a siphon hose for draining. In this case, the arrangement of a waterproof layer in the lower part of the shower is not required.
A popular mistake when arranging a heated summer shower is installing a leaky door and thick walls that do not allow air to pass through. Poor ventilation contributes to the spread of fungus and mold, due to the fact that the walls practically do not dry out.
In summer, when the water is heated by the sun’s rays, there are no problems when swimming. But, sometimes you have to come to the dacha in autumn, spring and even winter. In this case, it will be very cold to swim in the summer shower. For these purposes, it is recommended to equip a heating system that will provide a shower with hot water.
Consider the option of building heating with a blowtorch:
1. Use only pipes made of metal. The pipe that delivers water to the tank on the roof of the shower is removed from the cabin for several meters. Outside the room, a shelf with a heat exchanger and a water heater is installed. In the absence of a shelf, it is possible to use a table.
2. For the manufacture of the heat exchanger, a coil should be made from a thin pipe, pre-twisted with a spiral. If warm water is required, then three layers of pipe winding are sufficient, if hot water is needed, about eight windings are required.
3. Insert the casing into the prefabricated coil. For its manufacture, a large saucepan or a bottomless bucket is quite suitable. Fix the coil in the casing by welding.
4. The ends of the coil are connected to a metal pipe that brings water to the shower. It is better to make a coupling mount, which can be easily removed in winter.
Another important aspect in the construction of a heated summer shower is its aesthetics and attractive appearance. In addition, properly selected finishing materials play an important role. Indoors, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant materials that will not collapse over time. To improve soil drainage, it is recommended to plant moisture-resistant plants next to the shower, thus avoiding waterlogging of the soil.
Before you buy a heated shower, you should study the requirements that apply to it:
When choosing a purchased shower model, you should be guided by the volume and shape of the tank, which are chosen based on individual preferences. There are models with or without cabins. It is possible to install additional options, such as automatic heating and draining of water, additional nozzles and hygienic devices.
There are pedal versions or showers with separate changing rooms, they differ in cost, the latest models are more expensive, but much more convenient to use.
Another requirement for a heated shower is the convenience of its installation, since the shower is purchased, a maximum of three hours is allotted for its connection or installation.
The shower cubicle must have a window or mesh elements through which light and air will enter, killing fungus and mold.
Additional features of the purchased heated outdoor shower include:
The location of the heating element is lower, middle and central.
Of course, before you start building, you will have to make drawings of a warm shower in the country with your own hands in order to calculate all the materials, and in addition, the technical capabilities with which you are going to endow this building.
Indeed, often heated water is found in such buildings only in hot weather, that is, it is heated naturally, depending on weather conditions, but it can also be forced heating.
It is about this forced method of heating water, as well as about the insulation of the architectural structure itself, that we want to tell you, and also bring to your attention the video in this article.
Warm shower enclosure
How to supply hot water
How to heat a shower cubicle
Of course, in the summer you will not have a question about how to heat the shower cabin – it will be warm or even hot there without that, but in spring or autumn, when you plant a garden or harvest, in your shower you will most likely feel too cool. But you can make such a box with heating and here, they are the best fit and there are good reasons for this.
Firstly, the IR panel will heat up a small room very quickly, since there is a special principle of heat calorie release here – the panel will not heat the air, but nearby objects, which will just become a source of heat.
Secondly, such devices can be installed in any place convenient for you – on the floor, on the ceiling and on the wall, and, thirdly, they can be easily switched off and removed. This very “third”, perhaps, is the dominant factor in favor of IR systems – they will not be stolen, since you will have the opportunity to bring them into the house for the winter, or even take them to the city.
Infrared heaters come in not only different power, but also different configurations.
That is, it can be a device in the form of a panel, but it can also be a film type – the latest models can be installed under wall and ceiling cladding.![]()
How to keep warm in a country shower
So, we need an insulated shower in the country, that is, given that the design we will have is quite simple, most likely from boards or OSB, this will not be enough to keep the cold from the street inside. Two materials are best suited here as thermal insulation – mineral wool (glass or stone (basalt), but not slag) and polystyrene foam (in extreme cases, extruded polystyrene foam, but it is much more expensive).
The process of laying such insulation is actually no different from installation in other rooms – all the same frame and fasteners that are most suitable for the material used.
But there is one very important nuance here, which arises in connection with the specifics of the shower box – it is constantly humid there, therefore, the thermal insulation must be protected from water splashes. If you are doing installation from the side of the street, then this question disappears, as it were, by itself, but inside it is extremely important, otherwise you risk getting fungus and mold there.
Foil – excellent waterproofing
So, it is best to cover the insulation with a regular dense cellophane film, and then cover this entire structure with foil or any thin foil insulation, as shown in the photo above. Here you immediately, as it were, “kill two birds with one stone” – protect the insulation from moisture penetration and create an infrared reflector.
The fact is that the foil has an excellent property – it reflects infrared rays, therefore, the overexpenditure of heat calories in boxing will be minimal.
It is very important that you insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling, because according to the laws of physics, the heated air rises and if there is poor thermal insulation, then the warm air will evaporate very quickly.
The same applies to the waterproofing of the ceiling – the steam, rising up, will be reflected by the foil insulation.
Plumbing details
Since we are insulating the shower box on the street, it is quite natural that we will not make a drain (lattice) floor there, since cold air will flow from below and all heating will be useless. In such cases, of course, it is best to fill the floor with a concrete screed with insulation, which is most often used as an expanded clay pillow laid on a layer of sand.
That is, the screed is poured here according to all the rules – the soil is planned, then a waterproofing film is laid with a twist on the walls, then a layer of sand 2-3 cm is poured and after that – an expanded clay cushion, the thickness of which depends on the coldness of the soil, but not less than 4- 5 see
Do not think that we have made a reservation about – the film is needed here not so that water does not get into the soil, but so that the pillow is dry – thereby reducing the thermal conductivity of materials.
You will need to install a drain in the floor and take it to the general sewer, to the septic tank, or dig a cesspool nearby, only use it exclusively for soapy water. But still, the best option would be a septic tank – you will not only not pollute the soil, but also will not dilute the unpleasant odors that stagnant water exudes.
Conclusion
You understand that building a wooden box is easy enough, but how to make it so that you can wash in it during the cold season is a completely different question. So such a seemingly insignificant building in this case will turn out to be a capital object, but if you bring water underground, you can wash there at any time of the year.
Hooray! To the cottage. Dacha is a great way to take a break from office routine or hard work in production. At the cottage, you can perfectly relax with friends, barbecue and cognac, or work on the site.
But in any case, after working in the garden or relaxing with your best friends, you need to clean yourself up in the shower. Not every summer resident has an estate equipped in the same way as a city apartment. But organizing a warm shower in the country is easy and simple.
What is needed for this? The answer to this question is different for everyone. Someone chooses a home-made design, someone will get a ready-made heated one, especially since the assortment is very wide.
If you decide to make amenities with your own hands, then first of all study your site. Evaluate his winning and losing zones. The shower room should be located near the house in order to wash and immediately be warm. You also need to take care of the drain. And of course, you need to choose exactly the area where the shower cabin fits well and harmoniously into the landscape.
In addition to choosing a place to build a shower, you should choose a water heater for a shower in the country. Water can be heated by the sun or by electricity.
To do this, choose a black water tank, or paint a metal barrel black. It heats up the water faster. A tank is installed on the shower cabin and a shower head is welded from below. You can make such a garden warm shower with your own hands. The big drawback is that it will only work on hot sunny days.
In this case, the water for the country shower can be heated using the sun’s rays. For this, a solar storage water heater was created. In these devices, water is heated, thanks to vacuum tubes. The water here is heated at any air temperature. In winter, such a device heats water up to 60-70 degrees, and in summer you can get boiling water. The device works perfectly even in cloudy weather, since the work depends on the ultraviolet solar radiation.
When installing an electric water heater, check the quality of the wiring. If you do not have a central water supply in your country house, and the supply of water is limited or it has to be delivered, then you need a bulk heater. Typically, such heaters are equipped with a 50-100 l tank, a heating element, protection and a thermostat. Water is supplied by buckets or a pump.
Which heating method to use depends on your capabilities. Today, many companies offer a heated country shower as a turnkey solution. Such complexes are equipped with a cabin, a tank, an electric heater.
And if you like to do everything yourself, then a heated garden shower will be an exciting adventure for you. To do this, you need to choose a place for a country shower, put a metal frame and hang wall-curtains from all sides, and install a heated tank on top.
There are metal and plastic in the country shower. The advantage of plastic ones is that the water does not bloom in them, the welds do not rust, which means that the water in them remains clean, without impurities. The volume of tanks can be from 100 to 320 liters, both classic round and square.
Do-it-yourself heated summer shower: construction briefing
Country life attracts with the opportunity to enjoy fresh air and unity with nature. Outside the city, everything is fine, except for the difficulties with taking hygiene procedures. Agree, it would be nice to make a summer heated shower with your own hands to solve this problem?
This option will help increase the comfort of staying in the country, but at the same time will not greatly affect the family budget. We will show you how to realize this idea.
The article discusses in detail the best design solutions and technologies for erecting booths. Effective help will be useful tips on choosing the materials required in construction, arranging a drain, and simple and quick heating of water. The information presented is supported by photo and video applications.
Contents of the article:
Options for shower structures
Comfort and ease of use of the structure depend on how well the outdoor shower is designed. The task of a zealous owner is to build an economical, easily designed and at the same time the most functional shower equipped with heating.
The simplest option is an open shower.
Outdoor outdoor shower is a frame-folding block or a modular container, one of the walls of which is adjacent to the main building
right angle.
Do you prefer closed designs that are convenient to use both in the warm season and in the cold months? Build a stationary outdoor shower with a simple heating system. It can be a frame structure or a capital building.
The main advantage of this solution is that in warm weather the water in the tank is heated by sunlight, and in the cold months with the help of a heating element
These dimensions are convenient when building a structure from wooden boards. Taking into account the thickness of the walls in the finished form, the structure in terms of area is approximately 2 * 1. 5 m, of which an area of \u200b\u200b1 sq. m, and under the locker room – 60 * 40 cm.
When using planks of standard sizes, the material is consumed almost without residue.
In addition to wooden boards, the most commonly used building materials for cabin construction are:
When choosing a facing material, it is important to focus on the exterior of the site so that the building harmoniously complements the already created architectural ensemble.
Polycarbonate shower cubicle:
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Their metal profile needs to be welded to a frame slightly taller than a person. Sheets of yellow polycarbonate turn even a cloudy day into a sunny one. We cut them into pieces, smoothly bend and fix them on the profile with self-tapping screws
We hang shelves for soap accessories on profile supports, which can also be made of wood, and also install a bar with a shower head. Water comes from a tank with a pump, heating – from a boiler
To prevent the floor from “walking” and bending underfoot, we equip a concrete base. It can be round, oval, rectangular or square, depending on the formwork configuration.
Where there is soap, there is always a risk of injury. In order not to slip, we make small walkways from the sanded boards. Under them is a drain into the reservoir
Cabin base – metal frame and polycarbonate
Inside – everything is like in a real shower
Concrete screed base
Anti-slip wooden scaffolding
Recommendations for choosing a tank
You can buy a water tank ready-made by choosing one of the models you like, or from improvised materials, for example, from a 200-liter barrel.
There are several types of tanks available on the market, depending on the form of execution: square and rectangular, flat and oval
Finished tanks can be made of plastic, metal or galvanized steel. On sale there are containers of simple design, the design of which has a bevel and holes for installing a heating element, and models that are already equipped with heating elements.
When choosing a tank, you should be guided by two criteria:
A 100 l tank is sufficient for a family of two. And for the adoption of water procedures by three or four family members, it is better to set the option to 200 liters.
Would you like to make your own heated tank? There is nothing difficult in this. Buy any suitable container. Separately, on the construction market, you purchase heating elements.
As a heating element, a heating element for 1-2 kW is suitable, equipped with a temperature controller, for installation of which you will need two nuts and a ½ inch drive
5 to 2 kW. Their only drawback is that they are not able to maintain the set temperature.
For the installation of a heating element in the center of the tank, after holding 15 cm from the bottom, make a hole. At the bottom of the container, closer to the edge or in the center of the bottom, another hole is made for the arrangement of the drain. The outer part of the heating element is hidden in the wiring box.
To drill a hole for a heating element with a nut, a drill D 40 mm is required, for an overflow of ½ inch, a drill D 20-21 mm.
Determining the location of the building
To ensure that water flows quickly, it is better to place the building on a slightly elevated area. For this purpose, a flat part of the site is quite suitable. The main thing is that she should not be in a strong lowland.
The best option for placing a summer shower is an open area well-lit by the sun, which is located at a slight distance from other buildings
Choosing a sunny site for the construction of a shower, you will ensure that the tank is able to warm up well naturally. Such a solution will reduce the cost item by combining forced water heating in cloudy weather and with natural heating of water containers from the sun on fine days.
When choosing a location, take into account the moment that electricity is supplied to the future building. It will be required to power the heating element, which will act as a heating element.
Wooden shower on a slope:
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We make a 1.75×1.25 m frame from six thick beams, install it on a slope, under which the used water will flow. The lower ends of the supports are buried in the ground and concreted, the wood is treated with impregnation
We nail the boards across the supports, on the door – along. If you take boards 3 m long, then one product is just enough for sheathing two sides. On top we place two or three thick boards for attaching a barrel of water
We knock together flooring from a small lining so that the feet do not slip during washing. The distance between the boards is 1 cm, this is necessary for the free flow of water. For contrast, paint in a darker color
Decorate the upper part, which will act as windows and let in sunlight, with a lattice. To do this, we cut small slats and fix them diagonally. We fix the grate with self-tapping screws
The flooring can be extended if the area around the cabin is uneven. Get comfortable bridges. We paint them in any color you like, here it is darker
To make it possible to sit down during or after taking a shower, we make a small bench from the remaining boards. We treat it with protective impregnation and install it in the “dressing room” – near the doors
After final finishing – coating with paint or varnish – we complete the arrangement of the shower: install a tap, shower head, bring soap accessories, you can hang a curtain
To ensure water supply, we fix it on the roof barrel. So that it does not roll, we prepare a stand from a metal profile. Water heating will be carried out naturally – by sunlight
Step 1 – Timber frame
Step 2 – Boarding the frame
Step 3 – Floor decking
Step 4 – Grating as decoration
Step 5 – Access walkways
Step 6 – Shower furniture – bench
Step 7 – arrangement of the interior space
Step 8 – barrel on the roof
It is not recommended to place an outdoor shower too far from home. Not everyone likes to carry out long runs along the street after water procedures, preferring to immediately find themselves in a warm, enclosed space.
Drainage pit equipment
It is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry to bring drains into a common pit from a shower and an outdoor toilet. Under the cabin it is necessary to build a separate pit. To equip a summer shower, which is supposed to be used only from time to time, a drain pit with a capacity of no more than two cubes is sufficient.
When calculating the required volume of the structure, follow the rule that its capacity should be 2.5 times greater than the contents of the water tank
The drain should not be located under the shower structure itself, or even near its walls, but two or three meters from the building.
This option of arrangement allows solving two problems at once:
For the construction of a drain pit, a pit is dug to a depth of 2-2.5 m. At this depth, the runoff will be discharged into the soil below the fertile layer. Due to this, the soil microanimal will not suffer from such a “neighborhood”.
To make drainage, the bottom is lined with gravel-sand filling. The thickness of the drainage layer should be 20-30 cm.
Clay should not be used when creating a waterproof layer, because during the period of operation, as a result of the natural erosion process, it can simply break the drainage system.
To avoid shedding of the walls of the drain pit, they must be laid out in several rows of bricks or decorated with used tires
The upper part of the drain pit must be tightly closed. The lid can be built from a wooden shield or a piece of sheet metal.
The technology for constructing a drain pit from tires is described in.
Acquisition of necessary materials
In addition to the manufacture or purchase of a heating tank, it is necessary to purchase plastic water pipes Ø 50 mm. It is convenient to use a flexible silicone hose for water supply.
To equip the material system you will also need:
To make a foundation pour when arranging a cesspool, cement with a marking of M150 and above is required. The drain can be covered with waterproofing roll materials or hydroglass.
For the manufacture of a wooden floor in the shower, it is best to use a tongue-and-groove board “forty”, treated with a water-polymer emulsion or oil white.
For the final finishing and arrangement of the bathroom, you will need paint for exterior and interior work, spacious shelves for bathroom accessories and hooks for clothes
The following tools are needed to erect the structure:
For preliminary marking of the territory, it is also necessary to stock up on a skein of twine and wooden pegs.
Instructions for building a summer shower
There are no particular difficulties in building an outdoor shower on your own in the country. The only stumbling block for a novice master may be the question of how to mount a heated tank and how to organize a waste disposal system.
Step 1: Conduct preparatory work
The amount of work involved in site preparation depends on the type of structure being built. If you plan to build a temporary frame structure, to prepare the base, it is enough to remove a 15-centimeter layer of earth from the marked area, and then level the bottom of the dug “pit” and fill it with sifted sand.
When installing a shower cubicle on very heaving soils, in order to reduce the risk of tipping over, the thickness of the non-foaming “cushion” of gravel and sand should be increased to 30-40 cm.
When constructing a wooden pouring floor over gravel, be prepared for the fact that during bathing you will experience some discomfort due to a slight draft
Are you planning to build a permanent country shower with heating? For its construction will require laying the foundation. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of materials used. For example, for a brick building, a foundation deepened by 30-40 cm is quite enough.
The foundation is laid in the following sequence:
When it is desirable to raise the shower cubicle from the ground by 20-30 cm.
The best way to raise the shower cubicle above the ground is to install a pile or column foundation, using drilled, driven or screw piles for this
When equipping the floor between the shower cabin and the dressing room, in order to minimize the likelihood of water leakage, it is worth providing a low threshold.
Step 2: Building the shower enclosure
A simple frame structure will require the installation of support legs. Since a tank filled with water will be installed on the frame, the frame should be made strong enough.
Support posts can be made from the following materials:
To prolong the “life” of wooden structural elements, it is desirable to treat the workpieces twice with a moisture-repellent and antiseptic composition. For greater reliability, the lower part of the supporting pillars, which is planned to be buried in the ground, should be treated with bituminous mastic.
In accordance with the markings on the dimensions of the shower, supports are installed at the corners of the foundation and every 1.5 m of the contour.
To facilitate the work of deepening the support posts, holes are pre-drilled in the ground 60-80 cm deep and slightly larger than the size of the posts. Depending on the type of execution of the lower ends of the supports, they can be buried by driving in or by screwing into the ground.
When arranging a doorway, two adjacent support posts are placed, maintaining the distance of the width of the door. Mechanisms and a frame are attached to them, which acts as the frame of the future door.
To maintain a warm and comfortable atmosphere inside the room and prevent drafts, special sealing mechanisms are mounted on the door. To simplify the task, the frame is first assembled on a horizontal, flat surface. The finished structure is attached to the supports with long bolts. To create a log floor in the shower, dressing is performed inside the frame structure. The roof in the shower cabin is made simple and sloping.
Step 3: Installation of a heated tank
A tank is installed on the roof of the structure, the outer walls of which are painted black. Dark colors attract the sun’s rays well, thereby contributing to the rapid heating of the surface.
Prefabricated shower tanks already equipped with tap holes. If you make a tank on your own, for example, from a barrel, then before installing it on the roof in one of the walls, you must first make a tap for the thread. The diameter of the hole must correspond to the cross section of the branch pipe connected to the ball valve with a watering can installed.
In order to increase the speed and efficiency of water heating inside the tank located on the roof, it is chosen in dark color water pressure.
Since the heating elements are very sensitive to anhydrous environments and can even burn out in case of lack of water, it is important to control the fill level of the tank. To do this, a plumbing valve is mounted on the installed tank, which indicates the amount of water.
Hose, faucet and watering can are attached to the bottom of the tank. In order for clean water to flow from the watering can, and not sediment, the selective pipe must be placed higher. In this case, the hot supply should be 1-2 cm above the mark of the source of selection.
The same requirement must be observed when installing the supply pipe in order to ensure thermosiphon circulation inside the tank. At the same time, do not forget to take into account the moment that the mouth of the supply pipe should be carried as far as possible from the source of the outlet.
Wooden cabin with 250 l tank. The tank is equipped with a built-in heating element, heating is carried out from the mains.
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We remove the sod in a small area, fill it with river sand with a layer of 15-20 cm. We pour a layer of about 30 cm. Bricks are installed in it – the “foundation” for flooring
The frame consists entirely of a metal profile pipe 40×40 mm. We cut with a circular from the profile 4 long racks, 9smaller ones – for the base (5) and roof (4), 4 more small ones – for the corners
To get a reliable frame, we weld. The seams can later be made more even with the help of grinding equipment
To protect the metal elements from dampness, we cover the profile on all sides with a protective anti-corrosion compound
For facing the frame, we use edged pine boards. We pre-coat the parts with Avatex oil. You can use the color “oak” or any other
We cover the frame with boards on all sides, except for the one on which the door will be hung. To make the fasteners strong, we use self-tapping screws for metal
We hang the door, also made of boards, on a pair of galvanized metal hinges. They can be purchased at the store. A curtain instead of a door will also work
Step 1 – sand base
Step 2 – gravel filling
Step 3 – profile frame
Step 4 – welding parts
Step 5 – painting the frame
Step 6 – preparing the wooden elements
Step 7 – installing the boards on the frame
Step 8 – hinges for the door
The cabin is ready. It remains to install a water tank and make a connection for heating.
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Once again we check the strength of the fasteners, the reliability of the foundation and the floor. Flooring on the floor is made on the same principle as wall cladding
We install the tank on top of the frame. To do this, it must be placed on the profile, so the shape and dimensions of the frame are adjusted to the dimensions of the tank
In the summer, the water in the tank is heated naturally, and in early spring or autumn it can be connected to the mains by plugging the plug into the extension socket. To turn on the water, just turn on the tap
Step 9 – test the cabin
Step 10 – water tank
Step 11 – connect electricity
Step 12 – test the operation
Step 4: Ventilate and warm the shower
One of the most common mistakes when designing a summer shower is building thick walls that don’t allow air to pass through at all. Insufficient air flow contributes to the formation of mold in the corners and the spread of fungus on the walls.
To ensure air circulation and water runoff, the floor is made with slots between the boards, and a gap is left in the upper part of the wall.
Prefabricated pallets can be used for drain and flooring.
For a summer shower, steel pallets with a size of 1000*1000 mm are most often chosen, which have a simple shape with low sides
To seal the pallet during the installation phase, apply building foam along the contour of the cutout. Immediately, until the foam has hardened, lay the pallet. Squeezed out excess is carefully removed.
At the installation stage, it is also important to think about how to ensure the water supply.
Water can be filled into the tank in one of three ways:
If funds permit, it is better to make the water supply automated so that each time you need to fill the tank you do not have to climb up with a bucket of water on a ladder.
When planning to use the shower cabin during the cold months, it is worth taking care of the thermal insulation of the structure. The easiest way to solve this problem is by lining the walls with slabs.
Tips for finishing
For interior decoration choose facing materials with increased moisture resistance: PVC film, linoleum, plastic. When choosing a wooden sheathing, the surface must be treated with drying oil and painted without fail.
To make the adoption of hygiene procedures more convenient and safe, a grate knocked together from wooden boards is installed on the floor, on top of which a rubber mat is laid. Wood preparation is the same. If you want to increase its resistance to shoe wear, treat the material with an acrylic compound used for repairing bathtubs.
It is desirable to separate the dressing room and the bathing area with a curtain made of waterproof textile fabric or PVC film
If desired, both the inner and outer walls of the cladding material can be painted and decorated with patterns. The original design will turn the shower not only into a place for taking water procedures, but also into a decorative element of a suburban area.
Additional interesting options for arranging a garden shower are offered in these articles:
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
In interesting videos you will find a lot of useful information for installing a heated garden shower.
Construction and repair of the frame structure:
Shower tank from an old washing machine:
Organization of the heating system:
Outdoor heated shower ready. To prevent stagnant water, it is advisable to operate the shower at regular intervals. Before a long break in use, so that the sediment does not clog the watering can, it is recommended to empty the tank completely.
Do you have personal experience with a heated shower? Do you want to share practical skills or ask questions on a topic? Please leave comments, participate in discussions and add photos of your homemade shower enclosures. The contact form is located below.
How to drain water from the water heater: all ways to drain water
How to remove the boiler and what to do if the water needs to be drained urgently
There are cases when you need to drain the water very urgently, so in this case the method using a tee is suitable. Thanks to him, when properly connected, you can drain the water in 10 minutes, which is the fastest way.
There are times when people act irrationally and remove the water heater from the wall along with water, while its weight becomes very large. Therefore, before dismantling the water heater, it must be drained so as not to damage it. It will be very easy to drop a heavy boiler, it can explode from a sharply rising pressure.
Dismantling the water heater is easy because it just hangs on the hooks and can be easily removed from them. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the device, since any breakdown may require repair, for which you will have to pay a large amount of money.
Emptying the water heater is very easy if you follow the clear instructions. The main point is that it is necessary to prepare all the tools in advance so that no tricky situations arise. The water heater must be cleaned at least once every 5 years, so it will be impossible to avoid the procedure for draining the water. Pollution in the boiler accumulates a large number of bacteria that can lead to various diseases.
Drainage schemes
The main body of the boiler consists of a storage tank. The tank is made of stainless steel or coated steel. To maintain the temperature for a long time, the inside of the tank is covered with heat-insulating material.
Water heaters are equipped with thermostats to automate the heating process. To drain the water, the manufacturer equips the water heater with a tap.
The photo shows how to drain the water from the Thermex boiler:
The scheme for draining water from the Ariston boiler is slightly different:
How to properly drain the water from the Electrolux boiler:
- Screw on the cold water supply valve;
- Attach a hose to the drain and lead it into the sewer;
- Turn on the hot water and raise the non-return valve.
- Drainage conditions.
If your water heater is located in an unheated room, you will definitely have a question about how to drain the water from the boiler for the winter. It must be emptied otherwise the water will freeze with the onset of frost, and the expanding ice will damage your water heater.
In a situation where there is no time to wait for a long time or the water discharge valve does not work, the question arises, how to quickly drain the water from the boiler?
- Shut off the cold water supply;
- Open a hot water tap;
- Place a basin or bucket under the boiler;
- Remove the hot water hose;
- Remove the tee.
This method is used only in extreme cases
The water drains very quickly, it is important to have several containers for draining. Be sure the device must be unplugged, and the water must cool down
When using boilers, the quality of the water must be taken into account. Scale and lime deposits complicate the operation of the water heater.
In order to clean the heating element from rust and sediment, you need to know how to drain the water completely:
- Drain the main amount of water in a way depending on the model of the water heater;
- Remove the cap at the bottom of the tank;
- Disable electrical sensors;
- Unscrew the flange gradually, allowing the remaining water to drain;
- Take out the heating element counterclockwise.
When performing this procedure, be careful not to damage the heating element and additional gaskets. Otherwise, you will need a lot of time to find new ones, or fix the water heater leak. Water protects the inner walls of the boiler from rust and corrosion.
Stagnant water in the boiler does not need to be completely drained either. To do this, you need to fill a full tank several times and the water will be completely renewed.
If your appliance is under warranty then any tampering will void the warranty period.
Useful recommendations from professionals
Recommendations of specialists will help eliminate common mistakes that will help prevent equipment breakdown:
Installation, connection and first filling with water should be carried out by a certified store specialist, with a mandatory note in the warranty card. This guarantees you the replacement of equipment in the event of a malfunction.
For a boiler that is installed in a heated room, it is not necessary to drain the water when the owners leave.
When reconnecting the wires, refer to the connection diagram supplied with the instruction manual.
Different models have their own connection characteristics.
All connecting rubber and plastic gaskets should be replaced when draining the fluid. Consumables are sold in specialized and hardware stores.
To avoid a mistake when buying, take the gasket with you and show it to the seller.
Regular maintenance by manufacturers is recommended every few years. But the regularity largely depends on the quality of the water in your home.
If the water in the water heater comes from a centralized water supply, it contains disinfecting components (chlorine).
Water heaters are equipped with filters that need to be cleaned or changed regularly, so the heating elements will last much longer.
Filter replacement time depends on the water heater manufacturer and their recommendations.
By following the recommendations and instructions, the question of how to drain water from the water heater will no longer be in front of you. And the equipment will serve the whole family for a long time.
Like any device that comes into contact with water, an electric water heater requires special care.
Quick drain with cold water connection
A cold connection that can be used for draining is usually marked blue
If you do not have time for the previous method, you can drain the heater using the following method. If you connected the device correctly and according to the instructions, then for this procedure you will need an adjustable, gas or some other key with similar characteristics.
Yes, you understood everything correctly, we will have to disconnect the pipes, but we can’t do without it. So it follows these steps:
We need to wait until the hot water in the boiler is cold or at least warm, but you can also just use warm liquid.
Next, we need to stop the supply of cold water to the apartment, to do this, release some water from the tap and leave it open. Next, turn off the boiler from the network.
At this stage, we will need to use a gas or adjustable wrench, we must unscrew the connections to the heater with it.
We cling to the cut of the valve with the key, and start to twist. It is important at this stage to shut off the air into the hot pipe, because under the influence of the air that penetrates into the container, the water will rush like a river, and under very strong pressure, then no buckets will save you and the floor will definitely be flooded with water.
We twist the safety group to the end, you need to put a bucket from below, and then you can remove the finger with which you plugged the hot pipe
If you need to stop the water supply for a while, then just plug the hot water pipe again.
When everything is ready and drained, we recommend that before you collect the tank back and fill it, take the pressure relief valve and clean it well, you can still blow it out.
Why the boiler is drained
Any boiler needs periodic maintenance. And if your device has been working properly for many years, and you see no reasons for preventive maintenance, this does not mean that they do not exist. The thing is that the inner walls of the storage tank are slowly covered with scale. As for the bottom of the water heater, the same scale, debris and rust accumulate there. Depending on the quality of the water, the total mass of accumulated precipitation over several years of operation can reach one kilogram.
During operation, a lot of rust and other debris accumulate in the tank of your water heater, which will lead to a breakdown of the boiler. Periodic maintenance of the water heater will increase its service life.
The accumulation of garbage contributes to the accelerated failure of the tank, as well as the appearance and reproduction of bacteria – water does not boil inside the tank, so the conditions for their reproduction are almost ideal. A clear accumulation of debris may be indicated by an increased level of noise coming from inside – under normal conditions, the boiler operates silently, but when scale accumulates, the heating element begins to overheat, as a result of which the water heater begins to hiss softly, hinting to the owner that it would not interfere for some time look inside and clean out the trash.
Boiler maintenance and dirt removal requires the boiler to be drained. There are also other reasons for this:
- Long-term non-use of the boiler – if you are going on a long vacation, it is best to drain the water so that it does not stagnate. Otherwise, it can cause intense corrosion and bacterial growth;
- Non-use of the boiler in winter – if the water heater is located in an unheated cottage, then the water must be drained for the winter.
Otherwise, it will freeze and burst the tank, and you will be left without a boiler;
- Replacing the magnesium anode – the anode does not last forever, so it must be changed periodically. And for this you have to drain the water;
- Transferring the boiler to another place – in this case, the water must be drained.
Another cause may be the detection of a leak – to eliminate the leak, the tank must be emptied.
To drain or not to drain
Water heater owners often hear a lot of different advice about the need to drain the water from the boiler.
Most of them are mutually exclusive. For example, if the boiler is fully functional, but for some reason it is rarely used, “knowledgeable craftsmen” are advised to empty the container.
They motivate this by saying that the water will allegedly stagnate and deteriorate. In fact, this is far from the case. It must be understood that an empty tank corrodes faster, since changes in the environment accelerate oxidative processes.
In addition, the anti-corrosion magnesium anode can only work in liquid, without it it is useless.
Thus, the process of corrosion of the inner walls of the tank and heating elements in the absence of water is significantly accelerated.
You can drain the water from the heater yourself, but only if the warranty service of the device has already ended
twice.
In addition, it is good to “rinse” the tank once every two or three months, passing through it about 100 liters of cold water.
If the storage heater is used from time to time, it is necessary to drain water from it only if the temperature in the room where it is located can drop below + 5C
Another thing is if there are certain impurities in the water, for example, hydrogen sulfide. Such a liquid, which has stood in the tank for some time, acquires an extremely unpleasant pungent odor.
In this case there are no options, any interruption in the use of the boiler will be “waterless”.
Based on the recommendations of the manufacturers, you can make a list of cases when it is necessary to drain the water from the water heater:
- To repair a breakdown or to replace the anti-corrosion anode, but only if the warranty on the device has already expired.
- For the conservation of a boiler that remains in a room that is not planned to be heated during the cold period. Mandatory for execution if the ambient temperature is guaranteed to drop below +5C. At such values, crystallization processes begin in the water, which will certainly lead to a breakdown of the water heater.
- For cleaning heating elements and tank. The frequency of the cleaning procedure depends on the hardness of the water. On average, it is performed every 1-2 years, otherwise a large amount of scale significantly slows down the process of heating water, which leads to an overrun of electricity and an increase in the cost of its purchase.
Over time, scale settles on the heating element, and the magnesium anode deteriorates. To replace them and clean the tank of the water heater, it is necessary to drain the water from the tank at least once every 1-2 years
In some cases, draining the water from the storage heater is unnecessary and even harmful. These include the following common situations:
- The water heater is under warranty. Draining the water in this case is tantamount to attempting self-repair and will automatically void the warranty. If you find a breakdown of the warranty device, immediately contact the masters.
- Temporary shutdown of the device, eg for the summer period. If the heater will be located in a room where low temperatures are not expected, it is necessary to leave water in the tank. This will protect it from rapid corrosion. If, having forgotten, the boiler is turned on, it will not be empty, which will prevent not only damage to the device, but also its possible ignition.
- Desire to understand the design of the heater. Some home masters are so inquisitive that they try to conduct “training” plums for no particular reason.
You should not do this, because the heater, like any electrical equipment, is not designed for such entertainment.
To drain or not to drain?
Water heater owners often hear a lot of different advice about the need to drain the water from the boiler.
Most of them are mutually exclusive. For example, if the boiler is fully functional, but for some reason it is rarely used, “knowledgeable craftsmen” are advised to empty the container.
They motivate this by saying that the water will allegedly stagnate and deteriorate. In fact, this is far from the case. It must be understood that an empty tank corrodes faster, since changes in the environment accelerate oxidative processes.
In addition, the anti-corrosion magnesium anode can only work in liquid, without it it is useless.
Thus, the process of corrosion of the inner walls of the tank and heating elements in the absence of water is significantly accelerated.
You can drain the water from the heater yourself, but only if the warranty service of the device has already ended
twice.
In addition, it is good to “rinse” the tank once every two or three months, passing through it about 100 liters of cold water.
If the storage heater is used from time to time, it is necessary to drain water from it only if the temperature in the room where it is located can drop below + 5С
Another thing is if the water contains certain impurities, such as hydrogen sulfide. Such a liquid, which has stood in the tank for some time, acquires an extremely unpleasant pungent odor.
In this case there are no options, any interruption in the use of the boiler will be “waterless”.
Based on the recommendations of the manufacturers, you can make a list of cases when draining the water heater is necessary:
- To repair a breakdown or to replace the anti-corrosion anode, but only if the warranty for the device has already expired.
- For the conservation of a boiler that remains in a room that is not planned to be heated during the cold period.
Mandatory for execution if the ambient temperature is guaranteed to drop below +5C. At such values, crystallization processes begin in the water, which will certainly lead to a breakdown of the water heater.
- For cleaning heating elements and tank. The frequency of the cleaning procedure depends on the hardness of the water. On average, it is performed every 1-2 years, otherwise a large amount of scale significantly slows down the process of heating water, which leads to an overrun of electricity and an increase in the cost of its purchase.
Over time, scale settles on the heating element, and the magnesium anode deteriorates. To replace them and clean the water heater tank, it is necessary to drain the water from the tank at least once every 1-2 years
In some cases, it is unnecessary and even harmful to drain the water from the storage heater. These include the following common situations:
- The water heater is under warranty. Draining the water in this case is tantamount to attempting self-repair and will automatically void the warranty.
If you find a breakdown of the warranty device, immediately contact the masters.
- Temporary shutdown of the device, eg for the summer period. If the heater will be located in a room where low temperatures are not expected, it is necessary to leave water in the tank. This will protect it from rapid corrosion. If, having forgotten, the boiler is turned on, it will not be empty, which will prevent not only damage to the device, but also its possible ignition.
- Desire to understand the design of the heater. Some home masters are so inquisitive that they try to conduct “training” plums for no particular reason. You should not do this, because the heater, like any electrical equipment, is not designed for such entertainment.
How to drain the liquid from the Ariston water heater
If the Ariston brand water heater is not supposed to be used for some time, the contents from it must be drained. To empty the tank, use the key to unscrew the plug on top of the mixer.
Prepare wrench or adjustable wrench, screwdrivers (hex and straight). Drainage of water is carried out in the following sequence:
- Close the taps at the mixer and for water supply.
- Twist the shower hose and outlet valve.
- Remove the water supply hose and route it into a container. If there is a check valve on the inlet, it must also be removed. At the same time, water flows out of the outlet pipe.
- Remove the plastic nuts on the inlet and outlet pipes.
- Remove the cap from the faucet handle and unscrew the screw. Remove the handle, remove the gaskets around it.
- Disconnect the body of the water heater from the tank – this must be done towards the mixer, without completely removing it.
- Using a hexagon, unscrew the plug at the top of the faucet.
- Drain completely the water from the hole where the plug was.
Place the housing in a vertical position. Do not close the mixer tap. The whole procedure will take about twenty minutes.
We drain the water from the boiler Ariston
In what cases is it necessary to drain the water, and when it is not recommended to do so.
The issue of draining water from the boiler becomes relevant in many cases. In some situations, emptying the tank is indispensable, for example, it needs to be cleaned. But sometimes such actions can only lead to damage to the system and a significant reduction in the life of the device.
When water is drained from the tank:
- At the first start-up of the boiler or each subsequent one, if it had to be cleaned, it is recommended to fill the full capacity and heat the water to the maximum. After that, it is drained and recruited again. Thus, it will be possible to prepare the walls of the tank for further use;
- Sometimes draining water is motivated by the appearance of a foreign smell. This is due to the accumulation of impurities from tap water on the walls of the boiler.
In this case, the tank really needs to be cleaned and disinfected;
- The water tank often has to be drained in the event of a breakdown. When the tank is turned off for a predetermined or indefinite period and left in an unheated room, it is recommended to drain the water to prevent damage to the tank as a result of freezing, but before starting the vessel must be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned. If there is no water supply in the system, and a certain number of liters remain in the boiler tank, they are usually drained as needed and used for their own needs.
Diagram for draining water from the boiler, in the diagram the drain valve is indicated as a “drain valve”
When it is not recommended to drain the water from the tank:
- Sometimes the water from the tank is drained if it will not be used in the near future. In this case, it is categorically not recommended to empty the vessel, since changes in the environment of exposure to the material accelerate the oxidative process.
A tank without water will rust faster than a vessel filled with water.
- If the device is under warranty, it is not recommended to drain the water and clean it yourself. Masters must determine the conditions in which the device is operated and fix the problem on their own. Sometimes such overall devices are repaired on the spot, which makes it possible to immediately check them for serviceability. When there is no apparent reason or need to drain the water.
Regardless of the type of construction and connection method, there are a number of requirements for working with electric water heaters. All work must be carried out after de-energizing the device. The boiler must be cleaned periodically. The frequency of the procedure depends on the degree of operation and the quality of the water. Water before draining must be cooled to the optimum temperature.
Before starting work on a specific model, it is advisable to read the installation and maintenance instructions.