Replacing cast iron guttering: Replace cast iron guttering with plastic or cast iron again?
Replace cast iron guttering with plastic or cast iron again?
SirGalahad
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#1
A small property I rent has two leaks and I am thinking it might be better long term to replace the guttering which is currently cast iron.
Now is it recommended to replace with more cast iron or go with plastic guttering? If going with plastic guttering what is a high quality brand or make?
Its a standard terrace – about 5.5m with one downpipe. So what length does guttering come in?
Nige F
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#2
Replace with aluminium powder coated gutter. Better in all ways than cast and can use the same brackets
Leofric
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#3
Are there any Planning considerations , is it in a Conservation area for example
SirGalahad
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#4
Leofric said:
Are there any Planning considerations , is it in a Conservation area for example
Click to expand.
..
..Nope as far as I know but will check thanks.
Notch7
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#5
Or Brett Martin imitation cast iron
http://www.brettmartin.com/en-gb/plumbing-and-drainage/products/cast-iron.aspx
If you want metal then cast aly is best.
Cast iron is horrible to fit -its heavy!
SirGalahad
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#6
Had a quote £300 for replacing the gutter with a cast iron one.
This seems too cheap? and I will have to rely on agent to sign off.
johnny2007
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#7
Replace all with plastic.
It’s cheap, lightweight and indestructible.
With brackets placed correctly even the strongest storm won’t move it, tried and tested.
One thing to consider is what the landlord has to say about this, it should be his problem and priority to fix it.
OwainDIYer
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#8
Is the guttering itself leaking/split or is it the joins?
bobasd
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#9
yes, as above, take pics of the guttering and point out where its leaking – its often easier and safer to repair some kinds of CI leaks rather than take it down.:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/Cook-the-perfect-restaurant-steak-336360_final-d0c928820c5543d384d04f8e711b4196.png)
get up on a footed ladder, and have a look at the CI and the brackets and condition of the fascia.
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#10
The danger with using plastic is that someone wanting to work on the roof, (or even clean out the gutters at some future date), will not use a ladder stand off but rest the ladder against the gutter. This will distort, and potentially break, the guttering or at least lead to distortion resulting in leaky joints.
SirGalahad
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#11
OwainDIYer said:
Is the guttering itself leaking/split or is it the joins?
Click to expand.
..Its leaky in two places. I am the Landlord but relying on my Agent to inform me.
The gutter for some reason is actually 4 pieces and its leaking at two joins.
bobasd
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#12
the “joins” are simple to repair.
first you clean and dry the gutter as best as possible.
then you open up the joins usually at a fitting.
you might have to hack saw the gutter bolt off.
and then clean out the fitting connector.
then use gutter sealant or putty to seal the join, fit new bolts and nip the join up.
then water test it/them.
johnny2007
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#13
conny said:
The danger with using plastic is that someone wanting to work on the roof, (or even clean out the gutters at some future date), will not use a ladder stand off but rest the ladder against the gutter. This will distort, and potentially break, the guttering or at least lead to distortion resulting in leaky joints.
Click to expand…
I suppose that the landlord would be there if someone has to use a ladder to go on the roof, so could tell the worker to simply unclip the gutter and put it back it when finished.
I always do, i would never rest s ladder on a plastic gutter, some of the new ones are really really thin.
datarebal
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#14
Oh my!
And of course dont forget full scaffold , fall arrest harness……
If you can’t fix the joints, cast aluminium is a good option , as mentioned by others
FrodoOne
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#15
OMG
You wrote “cast iron guttering”
Was/is “cast iron guttering” (or even wrought steel guttering) actually used in the UK.
Perhaps you mean “Galvanised iron” – as opposed to Aluminium, or Plastic.
Of course, the main problem with “plastic” guttering in Australia is that it can be UV sensitive. (Maybe that is not such a problem in the UK.)
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Repairing cast iron gutter | DIYnot Forums
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#1
Hi,
As the title suggests I have a cast iron gutter that is leaking at the joints.
There is scaffolding up for other work. I know some will straight away say replace, but replacing in plastic is not an option (conservation area) and to buy a like for like replacement that the planners would accept is beyond my budget!
I know that the traditional repair is to remove the gutter and putty up but given the age of the thing I would rather not risk removing it if possible and I wondered if anyone has experience of brush on repair materials in this context.
I saw this Roofix 20/10 stuff on toolstation https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p12672?searchstr=roofi and it gets great reviews there and on Amazon, and supposedly stays flexible.
Any thoughts, alternatives, gladly received.
Cheers,
footprints
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#2
Those sort of products work well in the shopping channel ads on a clean bit of gutter, but usually not in practice with years of C**p on them.
If you have scaffolding then I would split the joint and remake it with a black gutter mastic.
Usually only held with one nut and bolt, cut /grind the nut off underneath and with a little bit of levering it should come apart. Surprisingly the screws fitting to the gutter board if they are the proper large headed ones often come out pretty easy if you need more movement.
Diver Fred
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#3
Traditional repair is to split the leaking joint:
Cut/Grind the nut off the bolt and use a woodern wedge to open the joint,
clean all the old putty off with(old) blunt chisel or broad screwdriver,
Wire brush loose rust,
paint cleaned surfaces with (old) oil paint,
Whilst still wet putty the lower joint face and re-fix with gutter bolt – tighten up so that the water channel is level on both sides of the joint.
Clean up/off the surplus, squeezed out putty.
After 24 hours over paint the joint on all sides.
Or you could clean out the gutter (yes – all of it) and then apply a 5mm coat of ‘Acropol’ or similar. But do make sure the gutter isn’t painted with any Bitumous paint…
If it is then it will need priming with the correct primer.
Last edited:
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#4
Thanks folks. I know the traditional way to repair is to remove, but on my inspection I have a bad feeling that I would be opening up a can of worms by dismantling that gutter, I can’t see the bolts and its not completely clear how its being secured, and the masons have pointed the bottom of it to the cornice stone so it may even have been bonded to the stone underneath it for all I know.
Having said that the gutter itself seems fairly solid, and its really just leaking at the joints.
The Acropol looks good, and sounds similar to the Roofix I mentioned before. I don’t think these are “shopping channel” type products as footprints said, but my worry is whether they would cope with movement. My inclination is to force some kind of sealer into the joint, whether it is traditional linseed oil putty or a modern sealer, and then paint over the top with Acropol/Roofix type stuff trying to create a one piece membrane if possible.
A mad thought I just had (cue laughter from everyone else), was as a belt and braces to fit a cheap half round plastic guttering inside the existing gutter. I know it seems a bit weird but it would probably fit snugly in there, wouldn’t be seen from below and would keep at least 95% of the rainwater away from the joints!
Nige F
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#5
I don’t think any of us realised it was a gutter bedded on to masonry – that makes a lot of difference.
However your inner gutter idea isn’t so mad Perhaps line the whole length with Flashband or similar – you don’t need to do it in one length because overlaps stick well – and it’s primer is bitumen based
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#6
I should probably have been clearer on that Nige. I am not certain that it is bedded to the masonry, but it sits on top of the cornice stone and there is pointing between the cornice and the gutter so there is chance that it is bedded on. I don’t have any real experience with roofing but I was a mechanic and a technician, and sometimes you look at something and think there are going to be complications in taking that apart!
Flashband sounds like a good option, I had thought about lead flashing and shaping it into the internal shape of the gutter, expensive but still a lot cheaper than replacing the gutter, but its what to do with the corners.
A long, broad length of flashband would cover most of the joints, and 2 out of 3 of the corners are above the porch so easy to get to if they need resealed later.
Too many options now, need to make a decision!!!
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#7
Thought I would just update this to say what I did in the end. Pic below shows how the gutter sits on the stone. I think its actually originally clipped on to a wooden strap at the back but is effectively sitting on top of the cornice stone, and its looks like slates would need to be removed if it was to come off.
Below is one of the joints before I started, the design of the gutter means that water sits between the joints so the putty, or the flashband in this pic is almost permanently submerged.
I also found in a couple of places that the gutter had been broken at the back and the flashband was an attempt to seal this but water was just running past the flashband and out the back of the gutter into the wall. I repaired these with chemical metal before proceeding.
Below is the same section of gutter after. I filled all the joints with putty first, then cleaned and painted with flashband primer, the lined the gutter with a single piece of 220mm width flashband the full length of the gutter (about 6 metres) spanning about 5 joints, with one end terminating near the downpipe, and the other at the corner pictured and raised above the static level of the water. This means that one sealing edge of the flashband is at the dryest part of the gutter beside the downpipe, and the other is at this corner above the porch where I can easily access it to check and reseal if necessary. I painted over the flashband with the remaining primer, mainly for an extra seal at the joins, and was thinking about painting over the whole thing with bitumen paint.
Poring rain last night and no leaks but I suppose time will be the teller!
datarebal
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#8
Just keep applying the lotion.
Nice slate, don’t like the look of the etching in the valley lead.. is the rest ok?
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#9
The lead is not in great condition in the valleys, it has had a couple of patches and will probably need replaced sometime in the near future.
Having said that there is no evidence of any water ingress on the inside of the roof, and the next priority is a chimney rebuild that I can’t do myself and which will probably drain the available finances for a while.
Alastairreid
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#10
Cast iron og wallhead gutter! they are bolted to the facing at the back of the gutter, they always rot at the back face first..
we used this company when replacing them in the past.
http://www.alumascrainwater.co.uk/
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#11
OP,
Given that you have no leaks then why not wait on doing any roof work until you have funds for every remedial item – that way you only pay for one erection of scaff.
CI guttering sitting on stone will typically rot out from the almost permanently damp gutter bottom thats permanently in contact with the stone – all rainwater will trickle under and sit on the ledge, touching & condensing on the permanently unpainted gutter bottom.
FWIW: quite how that valley hasn’t leaked is a mystery.
For instance, you have Code 3 lead when it should be Code 4 or 5.
Plus it looks to be poorly “designed”. But if it works it works – so dont do anything until you are totally ready to do the lot.
Last edited:
Alastairreid
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#12
vinn said:
CI guttering sitting on stone will typically rot out from the almost permanently damp gutter bottom thats permanently in contact with the stone – all rainwater will trickle under and sit on the ledge, touching & condensing on the permanently unpainted gutter bottom
Click to expand.
..http://bentleyheritage.com/tired-gutters.php
Quote
all cast iron gutters rot from the back first,
Last edited:
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#13
and?
whats your point?
and why the capitalising?
perhaps, given the difficulty you still seem to have with simply expressing your point, you find yourself shouting?
unfortunately, inarticulate roaring isn’t an argument.
Your referenced “expert” doesn’t appear to know that a sprocket is part of the eaves area timber detail.
Neither does he explicitly consider CI guttering sitting on masonry.
Occasionally roofers refer to a socket end – which, of course, means the female end.
However, we have always referred to CI gutter ends as male & female.
It keeps it simple.
Alastairreid
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#14
Capitalising was automatic when I quoted from his site.
My point! The gutter rots from the back first, always does on ci rainwater products…you imply it rots from the bottom.
The term sprocket is used in gutter terminology where I am as well.
It is important to highlight where the gutter rots first as that is where it is fixed by coach bolts to the plate attached to the rafter ends.
Attempting to do a repair on a joint when the gutter is supported on a narrow plinth with nothing holding it in place can cause the lot to come down.
That Vinn is where inaccurate advice can become dangerous.
Last edited:
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#15
Hi Folks,
To be honest, I know nothing about lead codes, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was the wrong type, and there are one or two flashband patches here and there.
However, there is no evidence of leaking and I have closely inspected the loft and it is dry as a bone in there.
We only bought the place at the end of last year and it has previously suffered from a lack of maintenance and neglect and there is a very long list of things needing done, hence the reason that I am doing whatever I can myself, although I would be the first to admit that rebuilding a sandstone chimney is beyond me and that is why that is the next priority – also because it is heavily patched and is a possible cause for dampness we have on that gable end.
One of the first things I did when I was up there was check that the gutter was secure, I gave it a good yank and its securely stuck in place. In this case it’s certainly true that any rot is at the back although only at a couple of points, surprisingly although its almost always under water the bottom of the gutter seemed solid. The scaffold is due to come down soon as it was up for replacement of the cornice stone which was badly cracked and worn.
More scaffolding would have been required to replace the whole gutter as the scaffolding that was up was only to one half of the house so it wasn’t a case of doing it all when the scaffolding is up. It made sense to repair the section that was accessible to me while the scaffolding was up to protect the new stone underneath, event if it is only delaying the inevitable for a few years.
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How to replace a cast-iron sewer with a plastic one
Replacing sewer pipes from cast iron to plastic for residents of old houses is a very urgent problem.
The old cast-iron sewer is worn out, clogged. From the point of view of aesthetics, cast iron pipes also do not please many. Hence the conclusion: it is time to solve the issue.
Contents
Why is plastic sewer good?
Plastic pipes (PVC or PP) have several advantages:
- light weight for easy handling of pipes;
- plastic sewer installation does not require special equipment;
- perfect smoothness of internal surfaces reduces riser blockages;
- are not afraid of corrosion.
There is one drawback: the noise insulation characteristics of plastic are noticeably lower than those of cast iron.
Who will do it?
If you are sure that sewer replacement is up to you, carefully understand the process. There are some subtleties of preparation and work itself. You can also hire professionals. Then knowledge about the whole process will be needed just in case.
To understand what to look for and how to accept a job.
Materials and tools
How many pipes, fittings and fasteners you need depends on the sewer layout. Make the calculations a little easier if your new sewer must completely repeat the old one. If you are planning any alterations, refinements of the old system, be very careful in all calculations.
It is advisable to plan an inspection hatch on the new sewer riser, even if it is not on the old pipes. Pay attention to the shaped connecting elements (tees, revisions, crosses) – their choice depends on the design of the sewer wiring. Cuffs that are placed at the junction of plastic and cast iron pipes must be rubber.
Another very important detail of the future sewer system is the expansion pipe. It will help to precisely fit the new sewer elements to the existing ones.
One of the main tools when replacing cast-iron sewer pipes with plastic ones is a grinder. It is she who will be needed when dismantling the riser.
Depending on the technology used to seal the existing sewer, a gas burner or a blowtorch may be needed. Other tools:
- hammer;
- chisel;
- level;
- tape measure;
- marker;
- plumb;
- goggles and respirator.
Plus silicone plumbing sealant, cement mortar and some liquid soap.
Organizational issues
How to replace cast-iron sewer pipes and not get a bunch of problems with neighbors? The ideal option is to agree immediately with all the risers. This can be quite difficult and time consuming. But this method is the most efficient. All vertical neighbors are aware of what is happening, no one is offended. Plus, they will react more and more calmly to the impossibility of operating the sewer for some time.
If you took on such work on your own, you still have to negotiate with your neighbors above and below. First, about the work, and then about checking the system after the replacement.
Dismantling
- It all starts with the riser. The pipe must be sawn at a height of approximately 0.6 m from the floor and 0.1 m from the ceiling. You can not make one continuous cut – they are made by two with a small jumper. It is destroyed with a hammer and chisel, after which the pipe can be removed. This kind of work is quite difficult to do alone. The best option is for one person to knock out the jumper, while the second one holds the pipe at this time.
- All these works are done without jerks. Otherwise, part of the sewer riser in the ceilings can be damaged. This is not scary only when it is planned to replace pipes along the entire vertical. Dismantling the riser is the most difficult part of the work; all other sewer elements are much easier to remove.
- When might a torch or blowtorch be needed? In some old houses, the sealing of the sewer riser is made by pouring sulfur. This substance cannot be simply removed, it can only be burned out. During work, vapors harmful to humans are formed. That’s why you need a respirator.
- If the seal is made with cement mortar, it must be carefully hollowed out and removed. During these works, it is also important not to damage the lower part of the old pipe.
- Upon completion of the dismantling work, the junction of the old and new sewers must be thoroughly cleaned.
During work, vapors harmful to humans are formed. That’s why you need a respirator. Installation of plastic pipes
Be very careful when you start installing a new sewer. There are three important nuances:
- Installation is carried out only from the bottom up.
- All sockets are installed against the flow.
- If the plastic does not “seat” tightly into the cast iron, additional linen or silicone sealant will be required.
More tips: to make the cuffs, which are placed at the junction of the new plastic with the old cast iron, easier to install in their places, lubricate them with liquid soap. Particular attention should be paid to cutting pipes to the desired length.
Work begins with the riser and is carried out in the following order:
- Insert a rubber collar into the lower section of the pipe, then a cross or a tee. Check the tightness of the connection.
- Insert the expansion socket into the cut pipe (as far as it will go). Try on the assembly to the upper segment of the riser. The distance to the lower edge with the fitting installed must be greater than 5 mm. All fittings are carried out without rubber pads and cuffs. They are installed when the fitting is over and the final assembly begins.
- Fixings to be installed in the wall. For a vertical riser, three are enough for standard ceilings.
- Assemble the riser and other elements of the sewer system.
After completion of all work, the structure must be tested. The best way is to pass a significant drain volume through the new pipes. If there are no leaks, the job was done successfully.
Now you can imagine how to properly replace the old cast-iron sewer with a new and beautiful plastic one.
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Selection and installation of drains for multi-storey buildings
In cities, towns, villages, a large percentage of residential development is occupied by apartment buildings (MKD). For MKD of different heights, it is necessary to think over the drainage and drainage system so as not to disturb the facade and not increase the permeability of the walls to moisture. The requirements are stricter for regions with heavy rainfall and strong winds. Insofar as the maintenance of the MKD is carried out by the management company, it is necessary to resolve issues with the catchment area promptly. You should select a reliable drain for a multi-storey building so that it lasts a long time and, if necessary, can be easily repaired. Particular attention is paid to the quality of installation.
Types of drains for a multi-storey building
There are many requirements for an MKD drainage system. Rationing is carried out according to SP 17.
13330.2017.
The document regulates the distance at which the drain should be located from a multi-storey building. The slope of the roof, the quality of the elements of the drainage system, the dimensions of the gutters, pipes, funnels and other things are taken into account.
Based on the position of the drainage complex (pipes, bends, distribution elements), it is possible to distinguish between the external and internal principles of installation of structures. Which drain for an apartment building to choose depends on the design of the roof, the number of storeys, the climate, and the required performance.
Outer
Outer (outer) drain suitable for multi-family houses with pitched roof. Otherwise, it will not be possible to concentrate the flow of water from the upper points of the roof. Not suitable for flat roofs. The number of floors is less important, but more often such structures are chosen for buildings with 2-5 floors. For multi-storey buildings, the outdoor method of collecting precipitation is only suitable in dry climates.
How it works:
- Water collects on the slopes of the roof and, thanks to the slope, falls into the gutters. To protect the gutters from debris, leaves, branches, special gratings are used.
- Fluid is directed from the troughs through a funnel down the pipes. Pipes are most often installed in the corner parts of the building. With heavy rainfall, additional risers can be located in the central part of the wall.
- Downspouts drain water into drainage systems. Each sink has its own receiver. It looks like a tray fixed at ground level. Closed with bars.
- Storm water inlets are located at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from the facade. They look like a closed ditch. They are made of concrete, cast iron, plastic. As a result, the water is sent to the city storm sewer.
Due to the simplicity of design, an external drainage system is more often installed to drain rain and melt water from the roof of private buildings, and for an apartment building, internal systems are used.
The outdoor catchment complex is popular for commercial, industrial, outbuildings.
Inner
Inner system suitable for flat roofs or roofs with complex architecture. This type of catchment is most often used for MKD. The internal drain in a multi-storey building is more reliable than the external one, because it is located inside the building and is protected from freezing. But designing and maintaining it is more difficult.
The principle of operation of the internal drain:
- From the flat roof of a multi-storey building, rain and melt water is directed to a special receiving funnel. It is installed with a decrease so that the water flows freely along a slight slope.
- From the funnel, water passes through the riser and special pipelines inside the building.
- Then it is sent to the outlet, which transfers the precipitation to the city sewer.
The system has a coarse filter to protect against leaves, an air filter to normalize the flow of water.
A clamping flange is often used, which provides a rigid fastening of the element, its protection from damage.
Advantages of the internal system: it is cheaper, well protected from negative environmental factors.
The choice of catchment type depends on more than just the roof. In harsh climates, internal drainage is used more often. Located inside a multi-storey building, it is protected from icing. As a rule, in extremely cold regions, the roof, catchment area, filters, clamping bars, seals are selected so that the system works as a complex.
Multi-storey building drainage materials
Materials must be strong, wear-resistant, withstand water hammer, and be easy to maintain. The drain of an apartment building is made of impact-resistant plastic (PVC) or steel with a protective anti-corrosion coating (most often galvanized). The choice of material depends on the decision of the designer, the climate, the likelihood of cracks in the gutters.
Material features:
- Lightweight plastic, easy to manufacture. Gutter elements made of PVC are easily adjacent to each other. The risk of leaks is minimal. Suitable for roll roofing. However, plastic can be used in regions with a mild climate. Due to severe frosts, PVC elements can crack, exfoliate. The seal is broken. The stronger the frost, the higher the risk of damage to adjacent joints. Another negative feature of plastic is that microcracks can appear even with slight frosts.
- Galvanized steel is durable, not afraid of heat and frost, chemically resistant due to alloying additives. The abutment can be broken due to corrosion, therefore it is recommended to choose elements with a thicker zinc layer. With point damage to the zinc layer, a rust center appears, the system wears out faster. But a typical steel drain lasts almost one and a half times longer than a plastic one. The metal system is heavy, so its installation is more laborious. But on average it costs less than plastic. It is more practical for installation in MKD.
But on average it costs less than plastic. It is more practical for installation in MKD. The prospects for replacing the system in an apartment building with modernized ones depend on the material of the drain. Metal gutters are more maintainable.
The “combined” type is gaining popularity – galvanized steel with a thin layer of polymer coating. In this case, anti-corrosion protection is increased, but resistance to climatic factors is maintained.
Design features of installation of drains
Much depends on the load: the higher the number of storeys of the building, the humidity of the climate, the higher the risk of water hammer. Compared to private houses, the complexity of system maintenance has been increased.
Main features:
- To protect against frost, it is recommended to line the drain with insulation, especially if the multi-storey building is old and not adapted to maintain a comfortable microclimate. You can optionally install electric heating. At the same time, it is important to monitor the protection of wiring from precipitation by electrical insulation.
- A layer of sound deadening material may be required to keep the sound of falling water from disturbing occupant comfort. This is especially true for tall houses and / or a gravity system.
- The dimensions of the riser must be selected during the design of the building. It should take place away from residential premises, the elevator shaft, the control room and other important areas of the building. Even slight deviations in the diameter of the riser are unacceptable, as they can lead to turbulence, blockages and other negative consequences. A special drainage system will help reduce the noise level.
- Pipes and gutters must be vented to remove air. For this, exhaust pipes are used. They must be displayed at a distance of more than 4 m from balconies, loggias, windows.
- For additional tightness, the joints are treated with waterproof sealants.
- The calculation is carried out taking into account the area of buildings and is approved simultaneously with the project of the house. The launch is carried out after testing and commissioning.
You can optionally install electric heating. At the same time, it is important to monitor the protection of wiring from precipitation by electrical insulation. 
It is obligatory to check the riser so that the repair of the drain in the apartment building is carried out in a timely manner.
Arrangement recommendations
Designers take into account the roof area, required slope, number of storeys and other parameters of the building.
Principles for arranging the drain of an apartment building:
- For clarity, the roof is divided into equal segments, taking into account that one riser accounts for 150-200 m 2 of the roof.
- A slight slope towards the funnels is sufficient, about 1-2°.
- The underground collector at the point of connection to the sewer must have additional protection elements: polymer gaskets and a layer of liquid sealant.
- If there is no separate storm sewer in the city, the output is carried out immediately to the general household sewer.
- For harsh climates, it is imperative to think over the heating system for the funnels.
For roofing use waterproof, but “viscous” material. It is practical in an apartment building located in a mild climate, but must be tightly connected to the drain funnel so that no leaks occur and frequent repairs of the catchment element are not required.
Method for calculating the drainage system
The calculation is carried out according to SP 17.13330.2017. All elements made of galvanized steel must comply with GOST 103-2006.
Calculation rules:
- If the system is outdoor, the slope angle must exceed 15°.
- One internal riser for a maximum of 200 m 2 roofs.
- The number of connecting sections depends on the type of roofing material, the branching of the drainage system, and the number of storeys.
- The cross section of the internal pipes is calculated taking into account that 1-1.5 cm 2 of the riser section corresponds to the elimination of precipitation from 1 m 2 roofs. At the same time, typical risers are selected based on GOST or the standards of the manufacturer of structures. Most popular riser diameters: 8, 12, 16, 20 cm.
- Funnels must not be placed too infrequently. Neighboring funnels must be a maximum of 48 m apart from each other for any form of roof.
Depending on the dimensions of risers and funnels, auxiliary elements are selected. For example, in order to ensure unhindered repairs, the size of manholes, revisions is chosen taking into account the parameters of the riser.
The specifics of the installation of gutters in multi-storey buildings
All elements are planned at the design stage. Installation is carried out simultaneously with all communications, when the “box” of the apartment building has already been built.
At the same time, it is calculated that during heavy rain, about 120 liters of liquid fall on 1 m 2 of the roof, so the drain must quickly divert flows.
The laying of the system depends on the condition of the roofing. If the “pie” of the roof is broken, it is first necessary to eliminate leaks, and only then move on to the catchment elements. Tools are used to facilitate installation. For example, with the help of the expanding base of the gutter, the edges of roofing materials can be clamped.
Basic installation rules:
- gratings are welded after the funnel position has been adjusted;
- inspection windows are installed in hard-to-reach places at a distance of up to 10 m from each other, while in straight sections the presence of blockages can be checked visually;
- sometimes it is required to install sand traps in storm water inlets in order to screen out the solid fraction from the water;
- blockage prevention is carried out 1 time in 6 months or more often.
Modern designs include a special collector with a primitive cleaning system. Water enters the storm sewer already cleaned of oil products, sand, mineral flakes, greasy films and other easily separated chemical compounds.
Troubleshooting
Installation should be carried out by experienced builders. They work in accordance with the current joint venture, GOST, SanPiN. The warranty for installation and the products themselves (pipes, gutters, funnels) often reaches 7-10 years. But due to installation errors, the system may fail.
Major malfunctions during operation:
- Mechanical damage to the riser section. It can be repaired pointwise if the damage is not serious. With a more complex breakdown, it is advisable to replace only the damaged area, and not the entire system.
- It is recommended to install or repair the drain of a multi-storey building in dry sunny weather, when the gutters and pipes do not come into contact with moisture.
- Blockages are very rarely so complex that parts of the riser have to be replaced. More often it is possible to remove the blockage through the hatches.
Installation, repair and replacement of elements in the event of their failure are required to be carried out by management companies, HOAs that service buildings.
The contract, as a rule, prescribes all the conditions for maintaining the maintainability of the water collection and drainage system. Repair is carried out if depressurization has occurred due to a violation of the connection points of the elements or their mechanical integrity. Or for other reasons, due to which the system ceases to remove precipitation.
Conclusion
To reduce the load on the roof due to the mass of precipitation and eliminate the risk of leaks, rain and melted snow are drained from the roof. For pitched roofs, external drainage systems are used, for flat roofs – internal ones. Depending on the branching and the principle of combining vertical and horizontal sections, siphon-vacuum and gravity varieties of internal conduits are distinguished.