Insulation for an attic: Read This Before You Insulate Your Attic

How to Insulate an Attic in a Day

Attic insulation is a no-brainer when it comes to saving money. Follow this easy guide to get the job done.

ByKimberly Dohner| Last Updated:08/29/2022

Insulate an Attic to Help Reduce Energy Costs

Let’s be honest: your attic isn’t the most popular room in the house. If you’re neglecting your attic or crawlspace, you’re not the only one. 90% of attics are under insulated, which is costing you an average $200 each year.

Attic insulation traps precious heat in the winter and cool air in the summer, prolongs the life of your roof, reduces your energy bill and even improves air quality.

Fortunately, you can rectify the situation by installing insulation yourself in this DIY guide that should take about a day to complete, contingent on the size of your attic and pre-existing insulation material.

Should You Insulate Your Attic? (15 Reasons Why It’s a Good Idea)

Prevention

• Stop water vapor from seeping in and eroding walls.
• Prevent gradual harm caused by moisture and mold accumulation.
• Slow down heat buildup, which causes shingles on roof to swell, then crack.
• Put a stop to water ice dams and frozen pipes.
• Deter pest invasions.

Investment

• 25% of heat escapes through the attic, costing you a small fortune in bills.
• Shave off 10-20% of energy bill each month.
• Cut electricity use by approximately 5% and natural gas by over 10%.
• Traps cool air in your home during summer months.
• Helps prevent money pits like roof repair and pest control.

Cost

• Up to 116% return on investment.
• Improves air quality.
• Noise reduction.
• Prolongs roof life.
• Reduces carbon footprint.

Safety Tip

Is your home built before 1990? It’s highly likely you have vermiculite insulation that contains asbestos so don’t move it. You must have a professional contractor handle its disposal.

Attic Insulation FAQs

How Much Does it Cost to Insulate an Attic?

The average cost of attic insulation is typically $1-$7 per square foot. That’s an average of $1,500, including labor and materials. Costs can be as low as $500 for smaller attics and cost up to $4,000 for larger attics.

Insulating your attic yourself will save you approximately $440-680 on labor costs.

How Much Insulation Do I Need?

Pre-Cut Batts or Rolls: To determine the number of precut batts or rolls you need, take your attic’s square footage and divide it by the square footage of insulation in the manufacturer’s packaging.

Loose-Fill or Cellulose: For loose-fill or cellulose, divide your attic’s square footage by 1,000 sq. ft. Then, take that number and multiply the desired R-value to get the number of bags required. (Make sure you round up.) Don’t skimp on insulation or all your work could be rendered useless.

Is it Better to Insulate the Attic Floor or Rafters?

It’s better to insulate your attic floor, especially if you’re on a budget or you have a large attic to insulate. It’s up to you if you want to dedicate more time and money to insulating the rafters too, but it isn’t necessary to reap the benefits.

What R-Value is Best for Cold vs. Warm Climate?

Cold climate: R-49
Moderate climate: R-38
Warm climate: R-25

Follow These 5 Attic Insulation Steps

There’s a variety of insulation materials on the market. The type you choose depends on a number of factors such as attic size, climate and if you’re working with pre-existing material or not.

This guide focuses on the two most popular choices: Fiberglass batt (blankets) and loose-fill (cellulose or blown-in.)

Fiberglass batt insulation comes precut or in rolls with vapor barriers made of paper and are fire resistant. Loose-fill is made out of a combination of fiberglass, cellulose and minerals to form a recycled cocktail. Both materials contain 40-60% glass, which is why wearing safety gear while handling and installing is so important.

Step 1: Acquire Materials

Tool and Supply List

TOOLS	SUPPLIES
Tape measure	Dust mask
Ruler	Goggles
Flashlight	Work gloves
Utility knife	Long-sleeve shirt
Caulk gun	Long pants
Box cutter	Foam sealant
Staple gun	Fire-blocking caulk
Rake	Cellulose (loose-fill) bags
Permanent Marker	Rigid insulation
Notepad	Fiberglass batts or blankets
Hardware cloth (optional)	13-gallon garbage bag
Blower machine (optional)	Plywood access panel
Battery-operated lantern (optional)	Aluminum flashing
	Self-adhesive weather stripping
	Insulated tent (optional)

Plan on Storing Items in Your Attic?

Storage and attic insulation don’t mix. That is, you shouldn’t store items directly on top of insulation (no matter the type), including boxes or household furniture of significant weight. Insulation shouldn’t be compressed because it will lose up to half of its insulation capability.

Now, this isn’t to say you can’t store anything in your attic once you insulate it correctly. Here’s what you need to build a simple platform that won’t negatively impact your insulation efforts:

• Hammer
• 7 1/16th oriented strand board
• 2 x 10 wooden boards

Prepare the Attic

Clear your attic of any boxes or storage items. You’re going to need an empty space to work in. Next, grab a pen and notepad — it’s helpful to draw a basic outline of your attic and mark it as you actively check for air leaks.

Too Much Attic Junk? Rent a Dumpster

Step 2: Seal Air Leaks

1. Take inventory of the biggest gaps in your attic. Focus only on those holes as that will get you the biggest savings.
2. Frequent air leaks occur around windows, wiring holes, pipes, exhaust fans, ducts, recessed lighting, dropped soffits and furnace flues.

Keep in Mind

Make note of a walkway and where you’ll be insulating. Always start in the furthest corner of the attic to prevent barricading yourself in.

3. Cut a 16-inch piece out of your batt and fold it over.
4. Place it into the bottom of a 13-gallon garbage bag to create a vapor barrier.
5. Now, fold it over the bag and stuff it into the open stud cavity of any dropped soffit vents.
6. Cover with aluminum flashing and seal in place by caulking the sides.

Pro Tip

It’s very important that you leave external soffit vents (installed under eaves of the roof) free-of any blockage to allow fresh air to enter into an attic, which creates necessary air flow.

7. Repeat steps 1-3 as needed. You will cover these areas with insulation later.
8. Caulk around windows, doors or gaps using fire blocking caulk or foam sealant.
9. Have a hatch instead? Seal around stair frame and opening using this same method.
10. For chimneys and flues, apply precut aluminum flashing and seal in place with caulk.

Safety Tip

Use hardware cloth to create a 3-inch safety gap around all light fixtures.

Already Have Existing Insulation? Start Here.

1. Measure current R-Value with tape measure or ruler (approximately 6 inches equal R-19). Note how much loose-fill insulation you’re going to need to bring that value up to 38+ and to cover joists.
2. Take your tape measure and hook it to the outside of the wall joist and measure to the inside of joist to get the length.
3. For the width, you’ll measure the same way but subtract ½-inch less than the center measurement. This is for the batt insulation you’ll apply later.

Step 3: Cut Insulation

1. Hook your tape measure to the furthest point of your wall joist, then measure length-wise to the inside point of the other joist to get your first measurement.
2. Cut batt 1-inch less than center measurement. For example: 12-inch gap between joists means you’ll cut your batt to 11 inches.
3. Use your permanent marker to mark the batt where you’ll cut it. Then, use your hand to compress the insulation down and cut out each section with a utility knife or box cutter.
4. Make sure you’re cutting double the amount for the second layer. Repeat until you have all your insulation ready to install.

Keep in Mind

Certain fiberglass batt is sold with perforated edges so you can tear it off.

Step 4: Install Insulation

Installing insulation isn’t so much labor-intensive as it is a technical process. There are a few things that can go wrong here so be sure to follow the directions closely, otherwise you could end up with a soggy mess from trapped moisture, or an under-insulated attic because you’ve packed your insulation in too tightly or left gaps.

Fiberglass Batt or Blanket

1. Take a section of batt you cut and turn it over so the vapor barrier faces down. Install it with paper side to the attic floor. Stuff tightly between joists.
2. Repeat all around the attic.
3. Next, you’re going to apply the second layer. However, this time you’re going to remove the vapor barrier before application.
4. Once the vapor barrier is removed, lay each section perpendicular to the first layer. This way, all your joists will be covered. Repeat around attic.

Pro Tip

Do not cover soffit vent(s). Your attic needs ventilation, otherwise moisture and mold will build up under the insulation.

Optional:

To help speed things up, you might consider renting a blower machine. Here are two quick steps to keep in mind:

1. Remove necessary plank boards to blow loose-fill insulation under floor with hose from a blower machine.
2. Measure ¾-inch distance into bay, then turn the blower on. Blow insulation into cavity. Hose will naturally push back as it’s being packed in, which is how you know it’s time to move to the next section. Repeat until finished.

Pro Tip

Blowing loose-fill after securing fiberglass batt means dealing with less dust.

To avoid taking multiple trips to the store, make sure you calculate how many bags of insulation you’ll need. Keep in mind that it’s better to have too much than too little, and remember vapor barriers should always be removed between layers.

Cellulose (Loose-Fill)

1. Dump out cellulose insulation strategically around the attic and rake it around until it’s level, similar to how you’d spread mulch. Add enough that covers the top of your joists.
2. Now take your fiberglass batt. Mark where you’re going to cut with your permanent marker. You’ll use the width measurement between your joists as point-of-reference between sections.
3. Cut using your utility knife or boxcutter, or use pre-measured perforated batting and tear at seams.
4. Align with the joists length-wise and install with the vapor-barrier removed.
5. Apply all around attic, then start laying your 2nd layer perpendicular to joist. Pack tightly.

Keep in Mind

Use a 2 x 10 wooden frame to create platform that you’ll use to set storage on later. Rest it across the joists before adding second layer of insulation. Fill in gaps with fiberglass batt. Hammer your oriented strand board on top.

Step 5: Final Touches

It’s important that you don’t neglect your attic entrance, whether that’s a typical door, or a hatch with a ladder or stairs. Just like in step one, this opening is another big hole that needs insulation. If you don’t properly seal it, you may miss out on the cost savings you’re hoping to see on your energy bill.

How to Insulate an Attic Door

1. Take precut rigid foam boards and install them against the attic side of the hatch with adhesive caulk. Make sure there are thick beads on the ends and multiple zig-zag beads that cross the center.
2. Line up the board with the edges of the attic door and press the foam board onto the caulk. Allow it to dry.

How to Insulate Attic Stairs

There are two ways to insulate your attic stairs yourself. The first requires a little more work, but is usually more cost-effective.

Harder but cost-effective method:

1. Remove old weatherstripping, if there is any, then measure and cut along the bottom edge of the trim.
2. Install a gasket around attic access opening.
3. Apply the self-adhesive weatherstripping until it fits snuggly on all four sides.
4. Take your plywood cut-to-fit your attic opening and staple fiberglass batt to attic-facing side
5. Attach a hook-and-eye fastener to the gasket that compresses when you latch the hook.

Easier but expensive method:
The second option to insulate your attic stairs is to purchase an insulated zippered tent cover. You’ll just need to measure to find the right size to cover the gap, then install by stapling around the edges with a staple gun.

Top 10 DIY Insulation Mistakes to Avoid

Nobody wants all their hard work to go to waste, or even worse, to get hurt during the project. Here are the most common mistakes DIYers run into when insulating their attic.

Neglecting to seal air leaks.

Not spreading and tucking insulation out to all the edges.

Covering up ventilation or restricting airflow.

Compressing insulation by walking on it or storing items directly on top.

Using incorrect materials or installing them improperly (keeping vapor sheet attached between batt layers, for example).

Stepping through the ceiling. Plant your feet on the joists, not the attic floor.

Using too much fiberglass material, which can restrict airflow between layers and render the insulation ineffective.

Removing old insulation that may contain asbestos, especially if your home was built before 1990.

Not replacing non-IC rated canned lights, which don’t always switch off when overheated.

Neglecting to insulate and seal the attic door or hatch.

Now That You’ve Insulated Your Attic

What are you going to do with the extra money you’ll be saving each month on energy bills? Consider other projects around your home, especially if you have leftover insulation material. Affixing insulation to the attic rafters, creating joist risers and installing flooring can transform your attic into a livable space. Garage insulation can be just as effective in cost reduction and home investment. Plus, you can’t go wrong with finishing your basement. You’re a DIY pro now — don’t be afraid to tackle your next project.

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Best Attic Insulation For Texas Homes| Superior Attic

Texas is hot and summer energy bills can be outrageous. Here is how to pick the best type of attic insulation for your Texas home.

Research shows that approximately 90 percent of single-family homes in America do not have sufficient insulation. It is an alarming figure since a poorly-insulated home is an energy hog and the loss of conditioned air makes it an uncomfortable place to work and live. 

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By installing insulation, you can avoid paying extra on cooling and heating due to energy loss and possibly cut your energy bills by half. Insulation has also been shown to pay itself off in 3-5 years. Keep Mother Nature out and your paid cool and warm air in.

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Let’s start with your attic. What is the best attic insulation and when should you install attic insulation? The most suitable time to insulate your attic is during the construction phase, a major renovation, and the moment your energy bills are unusually high or a family member has recurring respiratory issues.

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How about the best attic insulation for the Texas climate? Let’s go over the types of attic insulation and see which one is the right fit for your Texan home and attic.  

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Common Types Of Insulation In Texas

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Different types of attic insulation work better for different tasks. As you carefully weigh each of these options to determine the best insulation for Texas homes, carefully consider the attic insulation cost, the shape & size of your attic area, and the material’s R-value. 

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R-value refers to the material’s ability to resist the transfer of heat. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation reduces energy loss. 

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There is cellulose insulation and reflective insulation such as radiant barriers, but the top pick types of insulation in Texas are batt insulation, blown-in insulation, and spray foam insulation.  

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Sheets/Batts

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Manufacturers typically construct batts with fiberglass, which is essentially recycled glass and reinforced plastic. Fiberglass batts are the most common, but batts made of plastic fibers, sheep’s wool, mineral wool, and cotton are also available.  

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Batt insulation fits into the standard width between attic rafters, making it perhaps a DIY-friendly and inexpensive project. Traditional fiberglass batts have R-values between R-2.9 and R-3.8 per inch of thickness, while high-performance or medium-density and high-density fiberglass batts have R-3.7 and R-4.3 per inch of thickness.  

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Cost: Batt fiberglass insulation costs $1,000 to $2,400. The average cost per square foot is between $0.30 to $1.50.

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Blown-In Attic Insulation

Another type of fiberglass attic insulation is blown-in insulation, blow-in, or loose-fill insulation. Certified attic specialists apply loose-fill fiberglass to cracks, crevices, and attic floors using an insulation blower. Because of this, loose-fill insulation is considered one of the best types of insulation for attics and walls. 

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Manufacturers can also make loose-fill insulation with cellulose or recycled cardboard and newspapers, but fiberglass is preferred these days as cellulose is more predisposed to dust and lint accumulation and fiberglass is less of a fire hazard. For loose-fill insulation, R-values range from R-2.2 for fiberglass up to R-3.8. 

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Cost: Blown-in insulation costs between $944 and $2,138. Loose-fill runs from $1 to $1.50 per square foot.

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Spray Foam Insulation

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Hailed as the more expensive insulation and one of the best types of attic insulation, spray foam insulation adequately seals gaps and leaks in hard-to-reach and irregularly-shaped spaces. Certified attic specialists use a spray foam gun to apply spray foam insulation. They also either use an open-cell or closed-cell foam. 

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Closed-cell foam has the highest R-value of any insulation, around R-6.2 per inch, but it can be expensive. Open-cell foam values are around R-3.7 per inch of thickness.

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Cost: The average cost of professionally installing spray foam is $1,317 to $3,888. 

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So What’s the Best Type of Attic Insulation?

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You’ve looked at the DIY-friendly batt insulation, the eco-friendly blown-in insulation, and the high-performing spray-foam insulation. What is the best attic insulation for your home? 

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It boils down to the square feet of your attic, your needs, preferences, where you’re going to apply it, and the application method you can accommodate. 

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Fiberglass batts are the least performing but take the slightest effort to install. Loose-fill insulation is more prevalent among newly-constructed homes, and you will need a respirator as fiberglass is a lung and skin irritant. Spray foam provides the perfect air barrier but is costly and not for the DIYer. 

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Regardless of the attic insulation in Texas you choose, the golden rule is to have at least an R-38 value or 14-inches thick insulation. Consult with a pro attic specialist for the proper attic insulation for your home. They’ll be able to recommend the most energy-efficient, fire-resistant, and least prone to water damage insulation material for your attic, basement, or crawl spaces. Water damage can cause mold and mildew and can make family members sick.

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Find Out What Is Best For Your Home

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For the best insulation in Texas, contact Superior Attic for a free estimate, no-obligation attic inspection, and instant quote. 

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Installing Attic Insulation – InterNACHI®

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Barry Fowler

 

According to the EnergyStar™ Program, heating and cooling costs can be slashed by up to 20% per year by properly sealing and insulating the home. Insulating the attic should be a top priority for preventing heat loss because as heat rises, a critical amount of heat loss from the living areas of the home occurs through an unfinished attic.  During the summer months, heat trapped in the attic can reduce a home’s ability to keep cool, forcing occupants to further tax the home’s cooling system.

The aim should be to insulate the living space of the house while allowing the roof to remain the same temperature as the outside. This prevents cold outside air from traveling through the attic and into the living area of the home. In order to accomplish this, an adequate venting system must be in place to vent the roof by allowing air flow to enter through soffit-intake vents and out through ridge vents, gable vents or louver vents.

If there is currently a floor in the attic, it will be necessary to pull up pieces of the floor to install the insulation. In this case, it will be easier to use a blower and loose-fill insulation to effectively fill the spaces between the joists. If you choose to go with blown-in insulation, you can usually get free use of a blower when you purchase a certain amount of insulation.

When installing fiberglass insulation, make sure that you wear personal protective equipment, including a hat, gloves, and a face mask, as stray fiberglass material can be inhaled and cause irritation to the lungs, eyes and exposed skin.

Before you begin actually installing the insulation, there is some important preparation involved in order to ensure that the insulation is applied properly to prevent hazards and to achieve maximum effectiveness.

Step 1: Install Roof Baffles

In order to maintain the free flow of outside air, it is recommended that polystyrene or plastic roof baffles are installed where the joists meet the rafters. These can be stapled into place. 

 

Step 2: Place Baffles Around Electrical Fixtures

Next, place baffles around any electrical fixtures (lights, receptacles, etc.), since these may become hot while in use. Hold the baffles in place by cross-sectioning the rafters with 2x4s placed at a 3-inch clearance around the fixture.  Cut the polystyrene board to fit around the fixture and inside the wood square you have just created.

Step 3: Install a Vapor Barrier

If you are installing insulation with a vapor barrier, make sure it faces the interior of the house. Another option for a vapor barrier is to take sheets of plastic and lay them between the ceiling joists.  Then, using a staple gun, tack them to the sides of the joists. 

Step 4:  Apply the Insulation

Begin by cutting long strips of fiberglass to measure, and lay them in between the joists. Do not bunch or compress the material; this will reduce the insulative effect.

If you are not planning to put in an attic floor, a second layer of insulation may be laid at 90º to the first layer. Do not lay in a second moisture barrier, as moisture could potentially be trapped between the two layers. This second layer of insulation will make it easier to obtain the recommended R-value. In colder climates, an R-value of 49 is recommended for adequate attic insulation. In warmer climates, an R-value of 30 is recommended. Fiberglass insulation has an R-value of roughly 3 per inch of thickness; cellulose  has an R-value of roughly 4 per inch, but it doesn’t retain its R-value rating as well as fiberglass.

If an attic floor is in place, it will be easier to use a blower to insert cellulose insulation into the spaces. The best way to achieve this is to carefully select pieces of the floor and remove them in such a manner that you will have access to all of the spaces in between the joists. Run the blower hose up into the attic. A helper may be needed to control the blower. Blow the insulation into the spaces between the joists, taking care not to blow insulation near electrical fixtures. Replace any flooring pieces that were removed.

Loose-fill insulation, either fiberglass or cellulose, is also a good option in cases where there is no attic floor. In such circumstances, you won’t need a blower, and can simply place the insulation between the joists by hand. You may also wish to even out the spread with a notched leveler.

 

When inspecting an attic, ensuring that there is a free flow of outside air from the soffits to the roof vents is key to a well-functioning insulation system. The lack of adequate ventilation in insulated attics is a common defect. When inspecting the attic, look behind the baffles to see if there is any misplaced insulation obstructing the natural air flow, and check the roof vents to make sure that outside air is exhausting properly. Check for a moisture barrier under the insulation.  Also, look for spots where the insulation is compacted; it may need to be fluffed out.  In the case of loose-fill insulation, check for any thinly spread areas that may need topping up. Finally, look for dirty spots in the insulation where incoming air is admitting dust into the material.

 

 

Attic insulation from the inside if the roof is already covered

Article content:

• Which types of insulation are suitable for
  attic?
• Non-pressing expanded polystyrene (PSB) or polystyrene for
  roof insulation
• Extruded polystyrene foam application for
  roof insulation from the inside
• Characteristics of PENOPLEX
• Attic insulation with mineral wool
• Use of glass wool in attic insulation

The presence of an attic gives the house an attractive appearance and increases the amount of usable space. In this
In this article, we propose to learn how to make the attic residential. To do this, it is necessary to insulate the attic from the inside, if
the roof is already waterproofed. Many homeowners who plan to equip attic space are faced with
a similar question. When deciding it, it is necessary to take into account some factors that will directly affect the result:

• When choosing materials for arranging the attic, consider their thermal insulation properties. At low
  the thermal insulation properties of the insulation sharply increase its thickness to ensure a comfortable stay.
  This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the useful under-roof space.
• Pay attention to the configuration of the roof structure. It can be a classic lean-to or
  gable, have a complex broken shape. In each case, the amount of work and consumption of materials will be different.

In order to insulate the roof from the inside, if the roof is already covered, the developer needs to make a choice
insulation. Since the load-bearing elements of pitched roofs are usually made of wood, it is necessary to protect them from
waterlogging, which in turn can cause mold, rot and subsequent data destruction
structures. To protect the building envelope from moisture, a vapor barrier film is usually used. Same with
high humidity in the attic room will help to cope with supply and exhaust ventilation.

Which types of insulation are suitable for attic floors?

For internal attic insulation, a large number of suitable heaters are presented on the construction market.
Choose a heater based on the climatic characteristics of the region, because the run-up in temperatures in different cities
our country can be very significant. If you focus on the regions of the Urals and Siberia, you should
approach with particular care.

Also, when choosing a coating, the nuances of the roof structure are taken into account. We offer to find out what types of thermal insulation
the most popular, and what are their features in attic insulation.

Styrofoam (EPS) or Expanded Polystyrene (PSB)

Polyfoam belongs to the category of budget heaters, which have long been used in construction. Such a heater
economical and has certain advantages:

• The material has a light weight, so there are no problems with transportation and lifting to a height, fitting to size.
  It also reduces the load on the supporting structures;
• The dry thermal conductivity of foam is low enough to reduce heat loss.

On the other hand, the use of foam for roof insulation from the inside has its own significant drawbacks.

Firstly, the foam is a very fragile material that crumbles easily, crumbling into individual granules, so that
when working with it requires special care and accuracy. Secondly, the foam requires protection from moisture,
since, by absorbing water, the material sharply worsens its thermal insulation properties. Moisture saturated foam
undergoes destruction, which will eventually lead to the original state of the attic, as if it were not
insulated.

Extruded polystyrene foam application

When choosing a material for attic insulation from the inside, many developers decide in favor of extrusion
expanded polystyrene (PENOPLEKS). This material is made from products of the polystyrene group and is devoid of
foam imperfections.

Among the technical and operational advantages of PENOPLEX, the following characteristics should be noted:

It is known that slabs of extruded polystyrene foam were used in the repair of the Mirny station building in Antarctica,
including roof structures. This says a lot about the unique heat-shielding properties of such a material.

PENOPLEX is safe for health and the environment, since it does not contain components that destroy the ozone layer,
formaldehydes and small fibers that can cause allergies.

Use of mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fibrous thermal insulation material, for the manufacture of which minerals are used,
mined from the depths of the earth. The main types of mineral wool:

• stone wool;
• glass wool.

Roof insulation from the inside, if the roof is already covered, can also be performed using mineral wool insulation. Such
the method of thermal insulation is used throughout our country and has long been known. Minvata has a characteristic
fibrous structure and is supplied in rolls and plates. During the laying process, the material is placed between the rafters.

The heat-shielding characteristics of mineral wool are not very high, this material has long been used as a heater, but together with
it has many shortcomings. Due to the fibrous structure, the material is susceptible to moisture accumulation. After wetting the cotton
its thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply and cold enters through the roof in the attic.

The category of the most expensive cotton wool insulation includes stone wool, which is represented on the construction market in
slabs of various thicknesses. Stone wool has:

• Medium thermal conductivity;
• Stone wool is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic components when heated and is not subject to combustion;
• Stone wool slabs act as a noise barrier;
• The material has high vapor permeability.

Glass wool

Roof insulation from the inside, if the roof is already covered, can be performed using this material. glass wool
similar in structure and appearance to mineral wool, however, it is more elastic due to its greater length
fibers. Thanks to this, the strength and sound insulation indicators are increased. The disadvantage of this material is
low resistance to moisture, since the insulation quickly gets wet and loses its properties.

From an environmental point of view, the use of glass wool for the arrangement of attic spaces is rational
decision. In the manufacture of products do not use substances hazardous to the body. The material is characterized by low
flammability factor, which is also of great importance. At the same time, experts advise using
respirators during thermal insulation work, since glass wool is capable of disintegrating into small particles and
rise into the air, getting into the respiratory tract.

Return to the list

Choosing the best insulation for the attic

Attic insulation should be approached with maximum attention – competent thermal insulation will significantly save on electricity for heating, as well as increase the life of the room itself.

Attic floor design

A bit of history

It is important how stairs and doors are placed in the attic. Ideal when the ladder is installed parallel to the pitch of the mansard roof

Attic is fashionable and prestigious. For the first time, the attic space was used for residential purposes in 1630 by the Frenchman Mansart Francois. To do this, it was necessary to correctly select and install an attic insulation, thanks to which the attic floor became not only a zone of romance, but also comfort. The insulated attic is an ideal place for the creativity of artists, poets, writers, a cozy corner for romantics and lovers. That is why designers and builders pay special attention to the design of the attic floor and carefully choose materials for attic insulation.

Interior solutions for a modern attic

The attic allows you to place on its territory not only a rest room, but also a bath, toilet and even a kitchen, despite the unconventional geometry of the space. It is important how the stairs and doors are placed in the attic. The ideal option is when the staircase is installed parallel to the slope of the mansard roof from the axial boundary of the building. With this installation of the stairs, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bspace can be used as productively as possible. Another important point in mastering the space of the attic floor is the choice and installation of insulation in the attic. Even when designing an attic, it is necessary to decide which insulation is best for an attic of a given area.

Attic insulation type and functionality

Attic insulation value

Polyurethane foam is absolutely harmless for both animals and humans

You must immediately realize that the best attic insulation will allow you to install a toilet there and use the bathroom. If the density of the attic insulation does not meet the requirements for its functionality, then it will not be possible to use the attic as a kitchen or bathroom. That is why, when designing a house and deciding on the appointment of an attic floor, it is necessary to immediately calculate what thickness of the insulation for the attic is suitable in this particular case, based on the future operating conditions of this room.

Design features of the attic floor

Heat loss occurs very quickly in the attic. This is due to the fact that the attic is not protected from above by a “thermal cushion”, often in the attic, in addition, there are a lot of windows, which are additional holes for heat loss. Thus, it is the attic floor that has the largest area of ​​​​contact with the external environment. Therefore, to create a comfortable zone of the attic floor, a well-thought-out surface insulation system and the right insulation for the attic are required. Very often, homeowners want to insulate the attic on their own. There are many ways to make the attic warm, for example: insulation of the attic with sawdust.

The choice of insulation for the attic

Covering the attic floor should protect the room from rain and snow, wind and low temperatures home from the inside. Only detailed and up-to-date information will make it possible to understand which insulation is best for the attic in this climate zone. Covering the attic floor should protect the room from rain and snow, wind and low temperatures. Not all materials for attic insulation can cope with the tasks.

Attic insulation and air exchange

When choosing the roofing material and subsequent attic insulation, it is necessary to create a special ventilated air gap. In this case, the thickness of the interlayer depends on the selected roof profile, for example, for sheets of galvanized steel, the size of the interlayer is required to be 25 mm or more, and for bituminous tiles, this value should be doubled. Proper ventilation through the holes in the eaves, as well as the correct density of the insulation for the attic, will allow the room to “breathe” competently.

Condensate and attic insulation

The roof is an ideal place for condensation to settle. Warm air, rising up, remains on the attic roof structures after cooling in the form of condensate. The higher the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, the more intense the condensation process. In harsh climatic zones, laying insulation in the attic requires professional skills and knowledge. Obviously, in this case, insulation of the attic with sawdust will not work. After all, a wet insulation, whether it be sawdust or cotton wool, retains heat very poorly. In winter, the moisture in the insulation will turn into ice. In the spring, such a heater will begin to rot. 9Attic insulation rules then you should know the basic rules for choosing an attic insulation:

• The best attic insulation is one that has high thermal insulation and low flammability
• Materials for attic insulation should have low density and not make structures heavier
• The density of attic insulation must be combined with ease of installation and long service life
• Attic insulation must be environmentally friendly and odorless

Do-it-yourself attic insulation algorithm

1. Attic insulation must be laid on the roof, it is additionally worth insulating the floor and walls.
2. Laying insulation in the attic implies the organization of proper ventilation, the fight against water vapor, wind protection.
3. Even the best attic insulation needs steam and water protection.
4. Properly chosen density of attic insulation will protect it not only from frost, but also from summer heat.
5. The method of attaching the material to a sloping surface depends on the thickness of the insulation for the attic.

Attic insulation materials

The choice of attic insulation is huge, for example, you can use the following attic insulation:

• Basalt attic insulation
• Glass wool for roof insulation
• Ecowool for walls
• Traditional foam
• Modern polyethylene foam
• The best insulation for the attic – polyurethane foam

Features of insulation using different materials

Polyurethane foam is very durable – does not lose its qualities up to 50 years

If the attic insulation is made of fiberglass or mineral wool, then its thickness should be at least 15-20 cm. boards are not allowed. In addition, it is necessary to prevent the formation of cracks and at the same time make sure that the insulation mats do not bend. Insulation of the gables of the attic walls involves an additional layer of waterproofing. For external wall insulation, the following scheme is used: wall → vapor barrier layer → insulation material → waterproofing layer → finishing. Internal insulation of the attic involves: wall → wind protection → horizontal frame → insulation material → vapor barrier → finishing.

Insulation wind protection

Insulation wind protection – this is to prevent the attic from blowing through and creating drafts with heat loss. Wind protection is organized using a special membrane. It is better to take a roofing sheet for this and refuse roofing material or polyethylene. It is important that the air membrane allows steam to pass through, but prevents direct penetration of water and wetting of the insulation material. In the attic, windproof material is attached to existing rafters.

Vapor barrier device

The attic air is saturated with water vapour, so classic attic insulation materials require vapor barrier. It is performed either from a polyethylene film or from glassine. Sometimes ruberoid is used for these purposes. In order to avoid gaps, the vapor barrier layers must be strengthened with construction tape, and the material should be overlapped. The adhesive tape seals the seams perfectly. The fastening of the vapor barrier in the attic is complicated by the presence of a slope of the working surfaces.

Simple and effective material for attic insulation

Economical attic insulation

No matter what thickness of attic insulation is needed, polyurethane foam is effective, as it is able to create an even layer of a strictly specified thickness

All the difficulties with the preparation of work surfaces the formation of vapor barrier and wind protection can be avoided if you know in advance which insulation is best for the attic in a particular region, taking into account climatic features. If attic insulation with sawdust or ecowool is environmentally friendly and cheap, then you need to understand that this type of insulation is susceptible to moisture, quickly starts to rot and needs to be replaced. In order not to return to the issue of attic insulation regularly, but to solve it simultaneously with the construction of the house, you need the best attic insulation, the service life of which corresponds to the useful life of the room. Then, having installed a heater for the attic once, you will no longer need to invest material resources and labor in warming the room.

Polyurethane foam will solve the problems of attic insulation

The advantages of polyurethane foam in insulating attic floors are obvious. Polyurethane foam is a modern insulating material and has the following competitive characteristics:

• No matter what thickness of attic insulation is needed, polyurethane foam is effective, as it is able to create an even layer of strictly specified thickness
• PPU insulation has no seams, does not require adhesive tape, does not bend, while the PPU layer does not crack from frost or summer heat and does not require special care
• Attic insulation based on polyurethane foam does not require special preparation of the working surface, it has excellent adhesion to any materials, except for polyethylene
• In addition to excellent thermal conductivity and vapor barrier parameters, attic insulation made of polyurethane foam protects the room from extraneous sounds due to the high sound insulation of material
• Despite the fact that the best attic insulation is foam, it is harmless, the use of polyurethane foam insulation is safe for people and the environment
• The correct porosity of polyurethane foam, its ability to quickly increase in volume makes the installation of polyurethane foam insulation the fastest and most convenient
• Attic insulation in the form of foam does not make structures heavier, i. e. if the attic is insulated using polyurethane foam, then it is not necessary to additionally strengthen the structure

Attic insulation Ecothermix

Ecothermix 300 – the best material for attic insulation from the outside

Ecothermix – material for attic insulation in the form of polyurethane foam. The Ecothermix line of products is designed to meet the needs of any construction site in different climatic zones. Ecothermix foam withstands impressive temperature changes, does not crumble, does not create cracks, has no seams and irregularities, is easy and affordable to apply.

Advantages of Ecothermix

The main advantage of Ecothermix is ​​its application technology. After processing the wooden parts of the structure from decay, Ecothermix can be applied. Ecothermix does not require any special fasteners, or cutting rolls, or a complex mechanism for attaching mats, which is why Ecothermix is ​​the best insulation for the attic of the latest generation.

Attic insulation Ecothermix

The process of attic insulation using Ecothermix material will not take much time. In this case, the Ecothermix layer will turn out to be of a strictly specified thickness. To do this, it is necessary to monitor the creation of the correct pressure when applying the foam. The adhesion of Ecothermix to a degreased surface will become more reliable.

which is better for the roof, which one to choose for the mansard roof, the choice of density, which one to use

Content:

What properties should an attic insulation have?

Most regions of Russia can “boast” of the predominance of cold, which leads to space heating using heating systems. And in the presence of an attic floor, the situation becomes extremely serious. After all, the attic has the largest area of ​​​​contact with open air, which becomes quite cold in winter. Therefore, the insulation of this type of room should be approached very responsibly.

Due to the occurrence of a large temperature difference on different sides of the roof, the heat flow begins to move towards cold. Therefore, the task of insulating the attic is to put an obstacle in the way of the heat flow and reduce its heat loss. For this purpose, various heaters can be used, that is, materials with low thermal conductivity.

When deciding which insulation is better to use for the attic, it is important to take into account not only the qualitative characteristics of the material, but the design features of the attic, the materials for its manufacture, as well as the expected temperature indicators inside this room.

What properties should an attic insulation have?

Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. In most cases, a consumer choosing an attic insulation pays attention to the following:

• The ability of a material to retain heat.
• Operating period.
• Moisture resistant.
• How simple and easy it is to install.
• Is it possible to save on material.
• To what extent the material reduces the level of noise and extraneous sounds.
• whether universal use of the material is possible.

If we approach the question of which insulation is better for a mansard roof, from the professional side, then the most valuable characteristic of a heater is its thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient indicates how much heat a material can transmit. Each insulation is assigned its own coefficient, the lower its value, the higher the thermal insulation properties of the material. The value of the coefficient determines the thickness of the insulation, taking into account climatic conditions (read: “What thickness of the mansard roof insulation is needed, depending on the material”).

The second most important is the versatility of the insulation. Many people are interested in the question of whether it is possible to use one insulation for the roof, floor and walls of the attic. In this case, you need to carefully study the manufacturer’s recommendations on the package: if the term “universal” is available, you can safely purchase material for insulating the pitched walls of the attic and floor. The use of universal insulation helps to avoid the problem of varying degrees of surface insulation.

The next significant property when deciding which insulation to choose for the attic is the absorption of sound and noise. Even taking into account the fact that there is no noise and clatter from neighbors in the attic room, sound insulation is a must for the roof. This is especially true of attic rooms, the roof of which is covered with metal profiles and metal tiles. Insulation with good soundproofing properties contributes to the creation of a comfortable environment in a residential attic.

An excellent choice for attic insulation can be a material with low flammability. This property is very important for rooms with a wooden supporting structure. When choosing a heater for a mansard roof, one should remember the rule: the higher the risk of fire of the frame of the attic room, the greater the incombustibility of the insulation should be. Only in this case it is possible to reduce the degree of ignition of the entire floor.

Of no small importance for the attic insulation are its hydrophobic properties, since water vapor will always be present in the room. It is best to use materials with low water absorption. Otherwise, it is recommended to use additional waterproofing.

Popular materials for attic insulation – which is better

To find out which insulation is best for the attic, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of some materials. Materials based on mineral wool and fiberglass are very popular for attic insulation, little-known heaters are a little behind them: ecowool, foil board and natural materials.

Glass wool

Among the budget materials for attic insulation, fiberglass wool can be distinguished. It is easy to install and non-toxic. The absence of organic components in the composition of the material makes the material uninteresting for rodents. But the main advantage of glass wool is a low degree of ignition.

As a disadvantage, one can single out the presence of fine glass dust, which can cause damage to the mucous membrane of the eye and irritation on the skin. However, this problem can be solved by using personal protective equipment.

Mineral wool for mansard roof

In the composition of this material, you can find small stone or clay chips, as well as a small amount of fiberglass. Mineral wool is based on synthetic fibers, so it is safer for human health. The material is characterized by low weight, good vapor permeability and low hygroscopicity, which makes the material no less popular than glass wool.

The multilayer structure of mineral wool allows you to keep warm, due to the fact that air is able to linger in the layers.

However, the material contributes to the accumulation of dust and poorly resists high humidity. But this problem is solved by the implementation of waterproofing works.

Mineral wool belongs to a high class of fire safety; particles of quartz sand in the composition of the material contribute to the retention of even open fire.

Among the large number of mineral wool manufacturers, two leaders stand out, which are most suitable as an answer to the question of which mineral wool is best for the attic.

Izover insulation has high thermal insulation properties and perfectly absorbs excess noise. Therefore, it is ideal for arranging a children’s room or home cinema in the attic. In addition, such a heater will protect against the noise that raindrops make when they hit metal surfaces. Such material properties are ensured by the presence of special air lenses in the insulation cavity.

Ursa heaters incorporate only natural raw materials, in particular, we are talking about quartz sand and fiberglass. Therefore, the material does not pose a danger to the environment and human health. It perfectly retains heat, absorbs most noises and sounds, and is not damaged by rodents. The density value of mineral wool for the attic ranges from 30 to 225 kg / m ³ .

Mineral wool is characterized by a fairly long service life, for half a century the material does not bloom and does not rot.

Basalt or rock wool

The most popular and safe type of mineral wool is basalt wool. This material is based on natural stone – basalt, which is melted and stretched into thin fibers under the influence of high temperature. Basalt wool is able to withstand heating up to 1000 ⁰ C, but is not able to resist rodents.

The most popular brand of stone wool – “Rocklight” – is characterized by the ability to retain heat, absorb excess noise, fire resistance and easy installation. At the same time, basalt insulation for the attic of sufficiently high quality can be purchased at a relatively low price.

Another advantage of the material can be called durability and maintaining the ability to “breathe” over a long service life. The vapor permeability of the insulation is of great importance when finishing the attic, as this prevents the appearance of mold and various fungi.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Simple and easy installation, no skin irritation during operation and a fairly low cost – these are just minor advantages of expanded polystyrene. However, in most cases, the material is used in combination with other heaters. For example, the gaps in the frame are filled with mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene is laid on top.

Styrofoam

The cheapest option for attic insulation is foam. It is easy, so the work can be done independently, without the involvement of experienced craftsmen. This property is especially important when insulating sloping roof walls.

Styrofoam is an excellent soundproofing material, as it has several levels of density. In addition, it is not characterized by shrinkage during operation.

The density of the mansard roof insulation in this case shows the degree of its resistance to mechanical stress, but denser foam is less resistant to fire. Therefore, to insulate the roof of the attic, you can choose materials with less rigidity, since in this place significant loads will not be exerted on the insulation.

Polyurethane foam

Spraying with polyurethane foam is a good way to insulate the attic. In addition, the material has the following properties:

• Excellent thermal protection.
• Possibility of insulation without frame and special fixings.
• No seams, which are always conductors of cold.
• Creation of tightness in hard-to-reach places.
• No reaction with any roofing material, excellent resistance to moisture and vapor permeability.
• Good grip on any surface.
• Polyurethane foam is not afraid of rodents and insects, and is also not affected by mold and rot.

But PPU still has a drawback: it cannot be applied independently without special equipment.

Virgin wool

In some regions, natural wool or felt is used as insulation for the roof. These materials have good vapor permeability and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Wool can be used on its own, but its use in a roofing cake is considered more effective.

For the Caucasian area, wool is the most affordable insulation, which gives a great advantage over ready-made, more expensive materials. But in this case, do not forget about insects and rodents that can start in natural material.

Ecowool

Relatively recently, a new insulation has appeared on the construction market – ecowool. For its production, newspaper waste is used, which is pre-crushed and treated with flame retardants and antiseptics. At the same time, dangerous lead, which, according to many, is contained in newspapers, is completely excluded from ecowool.

The composition of the material fully complies with environmental requirements, even in the process of smoldering and with a sharp change in temperature. This property makes ecowool more efficient and profitable compared to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.

But due to insufficient fame, only specialized construction organizations carry out insulation with this material.

Which to choose: roll material or mats

When choosing a heater for the attic, the question may arise, is it better to roll material or slabs? In this case, the answer for each will be individual, since everyone has different preferences.

Practical experience shows that material in rolls is more convenient to use. It is enough to roll the roll to the desired length and cut off a piece. In addition, when insulating a roof that has a standard distance between the rafters, you can easily cut the material in half and fill the free space with them.