How much does lime plastering cost: Lime Plaster: All Your Questions Answered

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Lime Plaster: All Your Questions Answered

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(Image credit: Simon Maxwell)

Lime plaster is an internal wall finish that has been used for thousands of years and is still in use today thanks to its many benefits, although gypsum-based plasters and cement plasters are now often used in its place.

Plastering walls can be carried out in a number of ways are there are several different types of plaster, including lime plaster, that can be used for the job. 

Here, we give you all the information you need if you are considering using lime plaster on the walls of your home or already have lime plaster in place, including how it compares to modern plaster mixes and how to paint over it.  

What is Lime Plaster?

Lime plaster is a traditional type of mortar used to cover the surface of internal walls and ceilings before painting. Records of it being used date back 140 centuries to northern Jordan.

It is made up of a mixture of lime, sand and water — sometimes fibres such as animal hair are added to strengthen the mix and to ensure a good bind with the substructure.  

The lime for the plaster is a product of limestone, chalk or seashells formed from calcium carbonate that have been burnt to produce quick lime. 

There are two main types of lime:

  • Non-hydraulic lime is made from pure limestone and is available as lime putty. It offers brilliant flexibility and breathability.
  • Hydraulic lime is produced from limestone with natural impurities containing some setting agents — it comes in powder form and begins to set once it comes into contact with water. 

The walls and ceiling of this traditional manor house were refurbished using Lime Green’s Solo Onecoat lime plaster. (Image credit: Lime Green)

Venetian plaster is another type of plaster containing lime, while clay plaster is similar in that it is natural, breathable and very traditional, yet uses clay rather than lime.  

How Do I Identify Lime Plaster?

If you live in a house that was built before 1919 it is likely to have been plastered using lime — although just because your house may have been built later than this it doesn’t mean lime won’t have been used.

Lime plaster is usually an off-white colour (as opposed to pinkish as with gypsum-based mixes.)

When trying to identify your plaster type, check for the presence of sand and hair  — both tend to be good indicators of lime plaster, as is the finish being soft to the touch and obviously old. 

If you have lath and plaster, cob or solid masonry walls it will be likely that lime plaster has been used. 

Lime plaster has a lovely, rustic appearance as well as being softer in texture than gypsum or cement plasters.  (Image credit: Simon Maxwell)

Why Use Lime Plaster?

There are many advantages of lime plaster and although it has largely been superseded by modern gypsum-based plasters, more and more renovators and owners of period properties are realising its importance — although even those building new homes are cottoning on to its benefits.

So, why use lime plaster?

  • It prevents damp. Lime plaster is a ‘breathable material’, meaning air can pass through it, unlike denser cement, or polymer-based renders and plasters. This means that when moisture forms it can escape — so no damp issues to worry about. One of the biggest causes of damp in old properties is the use of modern, impermeable materials.
  • It is an eco-friendly option. As well as requiring less energy to produce than many other types of modern plaster, lime also has the ability to absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. 
  • It can improve air quality. Lime plaster acts a bit like a natural dehumidifier, removing moisture from the air when needed and releasing it back when the air gets too dry. 
  • It is very long-lasting. Because it is made of such tiny particles, lime plaster is able to penetrate deep into even tiny gaps forming a tight bond. What’s more, lime plaster actually becomes stronger over time as calcite crystals form.
  • It is flexible. Lime is a really forgiving material and is less likely to crack than more brittle cement-like materials.
  • It is very attractive. Lime plaster has a beautiful, soft natural finish that is really quite unique — it can be used in rustic and contemporary properties alike. 

This farmhouse, built in 1640, has solid granite walls so a breathable lime plaster was applied alongside the exposed stone.  (Image credit: Simon Burt)

Is Lime Plaster Expensive?

It is generally more expensive to plaster your house using lime plaster than with cement or gypsum plaster. 

There are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly, the process of applying the lime plaster takes longer and is more involved meaning higher labour costs, although most plasterers will still just charge a standard day rate.

The second reason is that lime products tend to be more expensive to buy than cement. 

Your final costs will also depend on the type of lime plaster you use.

Is Lime Plaster Better Than Gypsum Plaster?

Don’t confuse gypsum plaster with cement plaster. It is made with partially or completely dehydrated gypsum (a mineral) and is usually combined with added hardeners — it is now the most commonly used type of plaster in homes.

Although often thought of as a modern material, gypsum was actually being used in the 16th century where it was often added to lime. In fact, it is still sometimes added to lime in an effort to speed up setting times, although this is largely viewed as unnecessary. 

Compared to gypsum plaster lime plaster is far more breathable, allowing moisture to escape and evaporate, as well as actually drawing moisture out of the house. For this reason it is far more suitable for old buildings with solid walls, as they can retain a large amount of water which will result in damp problems when a non-breathable substance is applied. 

Lime plaster is more flexible than gypsum plaster too, so is less likely to crack should movement occur.  

On the downside, lime plaster takes longer to set than gypsum. 

How Does Lime Plaster Compare With Cement Plaster?

Cement plaster is a mixture of sand, cement and water. Although it is used as an internal finish, it is not as easy to get a smooth surface with cement plaster as with gypsum so sometimes a gypsum plaster will be applied on top. 

Compared to cement plaster, lime plaster is again more breathable, flexible and eco friendly. It is also a better thermal insulator and provides an excellent bind with the wall. 

On the other hand, cement plaster will set quicker and tends to be a cheaper option, both in terms of purchasing the materials and the labour required. 

Are There Any Modern Types of Lime Plaster?

Several companies out there now produce modern lime plasters that aim to cut down on the curing time. These can often be applied in a single coat, skipping the need for a scratch coat — Solo Onecoat from Lime Green is one such product.  

You may also have heard of the current trend for using tadelakt. This is a lime-based plaster commonly used in the Marrakech region of Morocco and is both decorative and waterproof, with a smooth surface that looks a lot like natural stone.

It comes in a range of colours and is ideal in bathrooms where it offers a beautiful yet practical finish on both walls and ceilings. Applying tadelakt plaster is a specialist skill.

Is Lime Plastering Difficult?

Like all plastering jobs, it will be far easier and quicker for a professional to apply lime plaster to your walls than to do it yourself. While many people do try their hand at plastering this is one skill that definitely looks easier than it is. 

It can be more difficult to find plasterers skilled in applying lime plaster than more modern types of plaster but they are out there — be sure to get trusted recommendations before hiring. 

This refurbished thatched cottage has been finished using Lime Green’s Solo Onecoat lime plaster. (Image credit: Lime Green)

How is Lime Plaster Applied?

Lime plaster is usually applied using a three coat system that involves building up thin layers over time, allowing each to set before the next is applied. 

The first layer is the ‘scratch coat’. This is a layer of around 10mm and is applied to the substrate, such as lath or exposed masonry. It consists of coarse aggregate which is scratched to give a rough finish that offers a good key for the next coat. This layer usually takes 10 days to set but can take more.

The second coat is called the ‘float coat’. It is also made using coarse aggregate and is 10mm thick, but is smoothed flatter and only scratched lightly to give a key for the final coat. This coat also takes around 10 days to set.

The finish coat – or ‘skim coat’ – is just 4mm thick. It is made with a smooth aggregate for a decorative end result. It takes around four days to set.

If you are using a lime-based plaster, there are products on the market that have been designed to reduce the labour involved and can mean the initial base coat is unnecessary.

How do I Prepare Walls for Lime Plaster?

If you are using a professional plasterer to apply your lime, they may well carry out wall preparation for you. However, it can save you money to do this job yourself. 

If the wall is solid stone or brick, remove any old or loose lime plaster, along with all dust and loose material. If some old plaster is still in good condition it can often be left in place.  

If your walls are made from timber laths, remove broken laths and replace them and get rid of old, loose plaster. 

If you want your new lime plaster to match any old plaster that you are retaining you should ask your specialist to match it as closely as possible.

Once walls are clean and ready they are usually sprayed with a fine mist of clean water. 

How Long Does Lime Plaster Take to Set?

Lime plaster is usually applied using a three coat system and each coat must be left to dry out before the next can be applied — although the initial ‘scratch coat’ should only take around 10 days to set, it can take up to three or four weeks in some conditions.

The next coat usually takes another 10 days to set and the final coat around four days.

The lime paster in this period home has been finished using distemper from Little Greene in Rolling Fog.  (Image credit: Little Greene)

What Paint Can I Use on Lime Plaster?

It is pointless plastering your walls with beautiful, natural and breathable lime plaster only to cover them with a non-breathable paint. 

For this reason it is important to use a paint suitable for use over lime plaster and also to wait as long as is recommended by your plasterer before painting. Earthborn Paints suggest that every 5mm thickness of lime needs a minimum of four weeks to cure before being painted or lime washed. 

Lime wash is a very traditional way to finish lime plaster and is used not only to add colour but also to protect the wall beneath. It has microporous, alkaline properties that can deter algae growth and many conservation specialists recommend it.  

On the downside, lime wash is quite maintenance heavy — it is applied by being built up in multiple layers and may also require re-application every couple of years.

An alternative is to opt for a breathable paint. These come in a wider range of colours than lime wash too.

Opting for a paint with a very matt finish is a great idea and looks very in keeping with the surface of lime plaster.

There are now several companies offering paints and lime washes suitable for lime plaster, including Earthborn Paints , Edward Bulmer , Little Greene and Farrow & Ball . 

Look out for distemper too — a traditional breathable paint with a lovely soft, powdery finish. 

Claypaint from Earthborn is a breathable finish perfect for lime plaster.  (Image credit: Earthborn)

Natasha is Homebuilding & Renovating’s Associate Editor and has been a member of the team for over two decades. An experienced journalist and renovation expert, she has written for a number of homes titles. She has renovated a terrace and is at the end of the DIY renovation and extension of her Edwardian cottage. She is now looking for her next project.


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lime plastering – expected costs vs gypsum

    • S

    • Stephen Fasham

  • posted

    18 years ago

I have an 18th century house (no DPC) which is lime plastered on the
inside. I am doing quite a lot of work to the house and need to get
quite a lot of plastering done. I was planning to use lime plaster on
the ground floor, and the ordinary gypsum stuff on the upper floors
where damp is not an issue. Does anyone have an idea of how much extra
the lime plastering will cost, and should I persuade a plasterer to
‘have a go’ or get a specialist?
Please don’t suggest that it’s easy and I should do it myself, as
plastering is the one and only job I’m NOT doing. Plumbing, wiring,
central heating installation, bricklaying etc. YES but plastering NO!!
Fash

Loading thread data …

    • A

    • Andy

  • posted

    18 years ago

Take a look at

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are many useful articles and a list of specilaists in all areas. Also
try you local conservation officer at the council. In my experience it
probably isnt worth trying to persuade a plasterer to have a go. Although
they would certainly possess the neccersary skills most will think that you
just want some builders lime (hydrated lime) added to ordinay gypsum stuff –
this is not what you want.

    • P

    • Peter Taylor

  • posted

    18 years ago

ordinay > gypsum stuff – this is not what you want.
Maybe I’m wrong, but can’t you use Hydrated Lime to make the lime putty? It
would work out a lot cheaper probably. I seem to remember at college years ago
learning about slaking pits and lime putty mixers
Peter

    • A

    • andrewpreece

  • posted

    18 years ago

That’s what I’ve been using to make lime putty/mortar: hydrated
non-hydraulic lime. As I understand it in the old days limestone would be
roasted to get quicklime ( CaO) then doused with water to get slaked lime
( CaOH? ). I’m pretty sure slaked lime is the same as hydrated lime, so
you don’t have to contend with dealing with quicklime, which is caustic
stuff.
Andy

    • A

    • Anna Kettle

  • posted

    18 years ago

You can use hydrated lime to make lime putty (put it in a tub of water
overnight to soak) but who would bother these days when a ready
prepared tub of lime putty is available ex stock from Jewsons. In the
old days ie 5 years ago, lime putty was much harder to get hold of and
hydrated lime was sometimes the only easy source.
Quicklime is the previous stage in the manufacturing process so there
is no need to bother about that unless you are a keen home lime
producer (and there are a surprisingly large number of them)
The Building Conservation Directory as recommended above is a good but
expensive source of lime plasterers. \ // Overmantels, pargeting etc
|____|

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01359 230642

    • A

    • Andy

  • posted

    18 years ago

Yes you can use Hydrated Lime to make lime putty but this is considered
inferior. The point I was making was (in general) builders/plasterers when
asked whether they work with lime plasters or mortars think it means adding
a quantity of hydrated lime to a gypsum plaster or cement based mortar or
render – which is not what is required for period property restoration.
Im interested to here that lime putty is available at Jewsons.
Pity you live in Suffolk Anna. (Pity for me that is !).

    • S

    • Stephen Fasham

  • posted

    18 years ago

Thanks for the info Anna, I will ask the conservation officer next
time I speak to him. Just for comparison what would your daily rate
be? If you prefer not to post it generally please e-mail me (email
exactly as posted).
Fash

    • J

    • John Rouse

  • posted

    18 years ago

In article , Andy
writes

Try asking them if they slake their own lime – it doesn’t matter whether
or not they do, its the response that counts – “Yer wot” is a bit of a
give-away.
J.

    • J

    • John Rouse

  • posted

    18 years ago

In article , Stephen
Fasham writes

Lime plastering should be cheaper, the materials are cheaper, and any
that falls to the floor can be re-used, unlike gypsum (as long as the
floor is clean), so there is less wastage. As the plaster can be worked
for longer, its easier to apply, the only downside is that it takes
longer to set.

Lime plastering is quite different to gypsum plastering – for one thing
you’re not working against the clock so much.
If you’re anywhere in the middle of England, give Dean Hicks in Derby a
call, he’s done a lot of lime rendering, including quite a few straw
bale houses, and our 150 year old pile.
J.

    • A

    • Andrew Gabriel

  • posted

    18 years ago

In my experience, the cost of the materials (for gypsum plastering)
is quite insignificant compared to the labour cost (like about 1/10th).

No one’s mentioned the horse hair yet…

    • A

    • Anna Kettle

  • posted

    18 years ago

I charge £20 an hour if I’m doing an hourly rate, but generally I give
a price for the job
Anna
—
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England
|””””| ~ Plaster conservation, freehand modelling in lime
/ ^^ \ // Overmantels, pargeting etc
|____|

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01359 230642

    • A

    • Anna Kettle

  • posted

    18 years ago

No its not cheaper its more expensive because lime takes longer to set
than gypsum and it has to be tended during that time. \ // Overmantels, pargeting etc
|____|

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01359 230642

    • N

    • N. Thornton

  • posted

    18 years ago

It shrinks and cracks during that time? I ask cos I have this insane
idea of trying a small bit of lime plastering one day later in the
year. I’ve never plastered anything.
I was reading up on making the stuff, and I gather quicklime is whats
wanted, slaking it yourself. I have some hydrated lime here – is it
possible to put it in the oven to dry it out? Or is that nuts? 🙂 I
ask because I know lime based dehumidifiers can be recharged by oven
heating the wet lime.
I looked up quicklime manufacture, but that process is quite different
to just driving off moisture, and I would expect one need not use the
same kind of high temps just for drying. \ // Overmantels, pargeting etc
|____|

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01359 230642

    • P

    • Peter Taylor

  • posted

    18 years ago

N. Thornton wrote

No, this is slightly wrong. The hydrated lime you buy in bags from builders
merchants has already been slaked and then dried out again. It doesn’t need any
more oven treatment. You can soak it in water and make it into lime putty, but
it’s a long, laborious job and unnecessary if you buy tubs of lime putty as Anna
suggests.
If you ever try slaking yourself, remember quicklime is nasty stuff. It is
highly alkaline and reacts quite violently with water, giving off heat. Think
of the rules when you mixed acid and water at school – you should always
submerge the quicklime in the water, not add the water to the lime.
Peter

    • N

    • N. Thornton

  • posted

    18 years ago

Thanks for the tips. I’ve decided though, I’ll try a little bit in the
oven and slake it, see if it works. If it does I’ll do it on a bigger
scale later. I’ll hopefully incorporate some fibres when I mix it up
as well.
I’m not going to travel to Jewsons, which I dont think we have here,
and purchase what I have already. Far rather do it myself, more
absorbing and less time.
Regards, NT

    • A

    • Anna Kettle

  • posted

    18 years ago

Certainly. And then you become a certified limey and get to go to the
Buildings Lime Forum Conference and Pissup

formatting link

less time. \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc
|____|

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01359 230642

    • C

    • Chris Holmes

  • posted

    18 years ago

I think there is a uk.d-i-y lime mortar FAQ

I was just about to recommend you as author Anna :=))

    • G

    • G&M

  • posted

    18 years ago

“N. Thornton” wrote in message

Unfortunately yes. A lot in summer, very little in winter. Only don’t
expose it to frost or it cracks big-time.

Just throw a bag of hydrated lime in a clean plastic dustbin, fill with
water (use ALL the safety clothing you can get) and leave for a month,
stirring occasionally. Not quite as good as some of the best lime putties
but good enough.

    • J

    • John Rouse

  • posted

    18 years ago

In article , G&M
writes

The problem is that you don’t know how long it has been hanging around
in the builders’ merchants, and how much of the hydroxide has turned to
carbonate.
J.

How Much to Plaster a Room

Plaster is one of the most common forms of interior décor and finishing in a house. It is used to create plain, smooth surfaces for door surrounds, windows, and walls.

The cost of plastering a room is based on the area to be covered. The cost for each square foot increases with how difficult it is to access and height of the wall. Difficult to reach areas may cost up to 50% above normal rates.

The surface that needs plastering needs to be prepared before the plaster is applied. This is an additional cost. The cost of preparing the area varies and is determined by the surface to be plastered.

Prep work includes:

  • Application of drywall primer and mud
  • Masking socket and/or switches with tape and crown molding
  • Filling holes in the wall
  • Moving furniture
  • Sanding textured surfaces

The cost of plastering prep work ranges from $1 to $3 per square foot. Normally it increases project costs by 10% – 30%.

Resurfacing Versus New Installation

Third Plastering Day by Brett and Sue Coulstock / CC BY 2. 0 A worker smoothing out a newly plastered wall

Resurfacing is significantly more expensive than installing new plaster. This is due to the extra restoration and preparation work required before installing the new plaster overlay.

New plaster goes for approximately $800 for 100 square foot surface. Resurfacing of the same size costs a minimum of $1,200.

Any plastering project involves other tasks such as:

  • Preparing the mortar
  • Screeding the surface for bonding
  • Removing deleterious materials such as mold and dust
  • Preparing the surface

When it comes to resurfacing, extra tasks are involved. For starters, removing old plaster costs $2 – $3 per square foot.

Other tasks include restructuring and tearing down whole walls and repairing holes and cracks. Resurfacing typically costs $10 or more per square foot. New plastering averages about $2 – $10 per square foot.

The table shows a summary of the costs, pros, and cons associated with the application of new plaster and resurfacing.

Type of plaster Pros Cons Cost
New plaster
  • Has a more even finish
  • More durable
  • Does not add weight to the structure
 Takes more time to accomplish $2 to $10 per square foot
Resurfacing
  • Saves time
  • Saves the cost of removing old plaster
  • Adds extra loads to other surfaces and walls
  • Does not last as long as new plaster
 $10 per square foot or more

Types of Plaster

Makeover 8 by Robert Wallace / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 A plasterer applying a new coat of plaster.

The cost of plastering is determined by the type of materials used. Wet plaster is mostly made up of cement and lime mixed with sand and water to standard consistency. They cost an average of $5 to $10 per square feet.

There are different varieties of plaster available, and they all come with different disadvantages and advantages. The style, durability, ideal environments, and cost all factor in, and it makes it difficult to understand each one. Another factor that plays in is the project’s complexity, and some plasters may require that the contractor has special training and more experience to install them correctly. The following will outline the benefits, drawbacks, and average price of each type of plaster. 

Acoustic Plaster Price

Acoustic plaster will cost between $13.00 and $14.00 a square foot. This plaster comes mixed with cotton fibers in it, and this helps it to be more soundproof. Additionally, it’s relatively easy to install, and you get a very pretty finish that can mimic the look of stone, marble, or cement. This makes it easy to tie into your marble countertops. It works wonderfully as long as your average humidity index doesn’t exceed 70%, and it doesn’t react well to leaks or water. You’ll typically see this installed in commercial buildings where they require soundproofing, but it’s also popular for a theatre or music room in the house. 

Cement Plaster Price

Cement plaster will cost you between $11.00 and $12.00 a square foot. Cement plaster is very easy to work with and strong. It does well with damp conditions, but it isn’t flexible. So, if your home is settling or older, this plaster won’t do as well, and it can develop cracks. It uses water, cement, sand, and plaster in the makeup, so it can last a decent while. 

Gypsum Plaster Price

You’ll pay between $10.00 and $11.00 a square foot for Gypsum plaster. It’s a fantastic choice because it doesn’t require an extra finish, is easy to install, and it gives you excellent insulation. It’s stylish while deterring fire spread if you were to have one. However, it won’t recover well from any water damage, it’s prone to rust because of steel corrosion, and it’s less mechanically robust than other options. 

Lime Plaster Price

This plaster runs between $9.00 and $11.00 a square foot. It’s one of the best choices for plaster available on the current market, and it’s flexible, lightweight, and resistant to cracks. It uses a mixture of water, sand, and lime in the makeup, but applying it requires an experienced, talented plaster contractor. It’s common in older homes because it’s flexible, and white lime plaster is breathable. Don’t put it up in very damp environments because it won’t last well. 

Tadelakt Cost

Tadelakt is a more expensive option at $15.00 to $16.00 a square foot for materials and labor. It originated from Moroccan architecture, and this is a lime-based plaster that gets mixed with black soap that comes from olives. The soap works to make it water-resistant and waterproof, and this makes this unique plaster a great choice for your kitchen or bathroom. Even though it’s very durable, one major drawback is that it’s very difficult to repair. If you damage it, you’ll most likely have to replace the whole piece instead of patching it. 

Veneer Plaster Cost

Veneer plaster will run between $5.00 and $10.00 a square foot. You put it up by applying very thin veneer plaster over a thicker substrate. The substrate is usually blue board or gypsum. This type of plaster is harder than traditional drywall, so it gets rid of the problems with dings and dents. It also doesn’t show joints to give you a great surface for any paint you apply to go on smoothly and evenly. It does have to be installed correctly for it to last longer, so you will need a professional. 

Venetian Plaster Cost

This plaster starts at $5.00 and goes up to $15.00 a square foot. It is made using fired lime plaster, and it was very popular for the Tuscan movement in the 1990s. However, it has been improved upon in recent years to make it very popular for the minimalist design style. There are no aggregates mixed in, and this sets it apart from other plaster. Traditional plaster in this style comes with a shiny surface, but the Marmorino plaster gives a matte finish. It’s low-maintenance, durable, and extremely forgiving. However, applying this plaster is very complicated, and you need an experienced contractor to come in and do it for you. 

Labor

The plaster application is done by plaster professionals. DIY of a plaster project is not recommended.

The plasterer will start by taping any joints on the drywall. They will follow by giving these joints a skim coat of plaster. The purpose of a skim coat is to offer a flush surface to work on.

Plaster dries quickly. The plasterer will trowel the plaster onto the walls quickly using even, smooth strokes.

A typical wall cures within an hour. During this time, plaster needs to be applied, smooth out to an even, flat finish without blemishes, and cut into the edges. The majority of plasters charge a rate of $2 to $10 for each square foot.

Big Areas by Gnomedude / CC BY 2.0 You will have to work slower when you work with plaster, and this can cause your project to drag out for several days while influencing your labor costs. 

Cost to Plaster a Wall by Surface Type

If you want to add plaster over an existing wall, it has several advantages. Plastering has become immensely popular over paint, exposed brick, or wallpaper today. Many contactors will advise against applying plaster over wallpaper, but other surfaces form a solid platform for your plaster. It gives you interest and texture to your space. 

On the other hand, exposed brick is a more industrial design. So, those who want a chic and minimalist style to match their modern bathrooms or decor can use smoothed plaster to pull it all together. Painting it gives it a very airy and light look, but this can be problematic in any high traffic areas. So, plaster is a go-to. 

Plastering Over a Painted Wall

To apply plaster over a painted wall, you’ll pay between $3. 50 and $6.00 a square foot. Generally speaking, as long as your paint isn’t in bad conditions, peeling, or cracked, you can apply plaster directly over it without a problem. Before you do this, you want to ensure that the paint has absolutely no dirt, dust, or grease buildup on it so the plaster adheres to the surface correctly. The walls should also be 100% dry. If there are issues with the paint, you will want to strip it before applying the plaster to ensure a smooth finished product. 

Plastering on a Brick Wall

You‘ll pay between $3.50 and $6.00 a square foot to apply plaster to a brick wall. Applying plaster over brick is fairly straightforward and simple, it does involve extra preparation. You want the plaster to stick easily to your brick surface, and it will, unless the brick has damage on it. You want to dust your brick with a brush to get rid of any dirt or dust before you start, and you should dampen it thoroughly to help the plaster adhere better. 

Plastering over Concrete

Per square foot, the cost to create an interior concrete wall out of plaster will range from $3. 50 to $6.00. Concrete is an ideal surface for plaster, just like brick is. You’ll need to make sure your concrete is free of dust and grime before you apply the plaster, and it should also be undamaged in any way. You should apply water to the concrete to dampen it before applying the plaster so it sticks better. 

Plastering Over Wood

Plastering over wood is more expensive at $5.00 to $12.00 a square foot. The biggest concern with this project is the moisture levels. You can’t have any water damage at all in the wood because this can allow mildew or mold to grow under the plaster. You want to clean, sanitize, and completely dry any wooden walls before you apply the plaster. You should also add a waterproof sealant to protect the wood from the plaster’s moisture. Some contractors will try to talk  you out of applying your plaster over wood. 

Plastering a Breeze Block Wall

Plastering over a breeze block wall starts at $6.00 a square foot and goes up to $8.00 per square foot. You’ll typically see a breeze block wall in warmer climates, and they usually feature open-style concrete blocks. This design gives you more of a breeze between two buildings or in a carport area. The bricks are usually hollowed out, so you’ll need to add a bonding plaster to the hollowed out area before adding a finishing layer. 

Routine Plaster Maintenance and Cleaning Costs

Cleaning your plaster is important for maintaining them. The plaster will look much better and last longer if you get rid of dust, dirt, and stains regularly. It can be challenging to clean textured plaster walls. So, even though this may seem like a project you can DIY, you should consider hiring a professional to take it on for you. Some cleaning agents can have chemicals in them that can damage the plaster, and a cleaning expert will know which things you can use. Only professionals will be able to get special non-toxic but very effective cleaning product brands. For the whole house, you’ll typically pay between $300 and $400 to clean the plaster.  

You should only use soap and water to clean any water-based plaster types like Tadelakt. You won’t have to worry about maintaining each-based plasters except to repair holes or cracks as you see them. You can fill in these areas with joint compound, and it’ll blend nicely into the plaster. Per square foot, simple maintenance and repairs cost between $50.00 and $120. 

Plaster Removal Cost

080700_082550 by Remixing Çatalhöyük / CC BY-NC 2.0 Removing plaster can be a very labor-intensive and time-consuming process to take on. However, it’s critical that you call in a professional in case you have asbestos hiding behind the wall. 

You may have to remove plaster ceilings or walls in older homes. The biggest issue with removing older plaster is that there could be asbestos behind it. THis is a very dangerous material that was used for insulation through the 1980s. It’s a natural mineral, but it’s also a carcinogen, and it can cause a deadly cancer called mesothelioma. This is why only people who have the experience and training should attempt to remove plaster from your home. Also, this is a messy project that can create a lot of dust and make it very easy to accidentally inhale asbestos. 

If the contractor finds asbestos in your home when they’re removing the plaster, it can be very challenging to remove. The average removal cost for asbestos starts at $400 to $500, but the cost can quickly exceed $10,000 if it’s more complicated and dangerous. 

Plaster can crack, obtain water damage, bulg, buckle, or become unusable. However, you want to remember that you can typically repair your plaster, and this is usually the best option. Plaster gives you a natural acoustic barrier since it’s thicker than other wall types. Plaster is also a big factor in ranking a home’s authenticity. To remove plaster from your walls, you’ll pay between $2.10 and $3.20 a square foot. 

If you want to remove a plaster ceiling, this is more expensive because it’s more complicated. The contactor will have to stand on scaffolding or a ladder with their arms up for hours at a time. So, you can expect to pay between $3.50 and $7.00 a square foot for this project. 

Comparing the Prices of Plaster vs Drywall 

Drywall is typically the preferred material people go with for their new homes because it’s easier and quicker for the building teams to install. Plaster requires a more specialized technique and it’s more labor-intensive. So, finding a contractor for plaster can be more expensive. However, drywall doesn’t work well on curved walls, so this is where you’d want plaster. Plaster can also be much more aesthetically-pleasing, and it can give you specific finishes and textures that you can’t get with drywall. 

Both drywall and plaster will give you good insulation from the cold or heat, especially because you can now get drywall in various thicknesses. Older homes that have plaster might not have good enough insulation, and retrofitting these walls is an expensive process. Both products give you a very durable and long-lasting finish. The cost difference comes down to installation. Drywall typically ranges from $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot where plaster is between $5.00 and $10.00 per square foot. These costs include both labor and materials. 

Comparing the Prices of Spackle vs Plaster

You’ll typically use spackle to plaster walls and repair drywall. You’ll only use plaster on plaster walls. Spackle tends to dry much quicker than plaster, and you can spread it out into an extremely thin layer. Plaster needs more drying time, multiple layers, a thicker application, and time to dry between each layer. Spackling will cost between $50.00 to $80.00 a square foot, and plaster is between $50.00 and $120 a square foot. 

Improvement and Enhancement Costs

Paint

Once the casing or plastered wall is dry, you may want to paint it. Painters usually charge $20 to $35 an hour. It takes one painter approximately 2 hours to paint 100 square feet of wall. This means the total cost for every 100 square feet should not exceed $70.

Finishes

Finish work may increase the cost of plastering a room. Various styles and textures can be used to finish a plastered surface. Examples include fine sand, two-tone, lace, and dash. Finishing usually costs between $1 and $3 per square foot.

Additional Costs and Considerations

Location

The cost of plastering may be affected by the location of the area you want to be plastered. External areas are more expensive than interior walls.

One of the reasons for higher costs is workers do not have to struggle with complications such as unpredictable weather. Expect to pay 5% to 8% more for outdoor plastering.

High Walls

Plastering a high wall includes the installation of scaffolding and extra labor. The rate of work is also slower. This results in a higher cost or quote than work on low-level walls. The cost of plastering walls that require scaffolding is about 20% higher than normal walls.

Unfinished Rooms

The final surface of an unfinished room needs to be finished before plastering can begin. It requires an extra labor cost of 10% for the extra time spent on unfinished rooms.

Rooms Currently in Use

Extra costs are to be expected when you plaster a room already in use. This is because the plasterer will need to move around furniture and other objects in the room.

The owner can reduce the cost by moving objects and furniture by herself/himself. Alternatively, they can pay an additional 2% to 5% to the plasterer to do the work.

Sealing

You should seal your plaster before you paint it. The sealant will help to make the plaster less absorbent so that the paint sticks better. You should try to use a watered-down emulsion product when you paint, but this can be very messy unless you’ve done it before. If you use a white topcoat, you could end up with darker patches that you’ll have to use a stain block to fade. There are paints that you can use specifically for plaster, but they are expensive so the costs can add up very fast. Per square foot, you’ll pay around $1.00 to apply sealant. 

 

Decorative Plastering

Ornamental or decorative plastering is a specialty term. The contractor will use a mold to apply your chosen design to the wall. You could have seen this done on arches, cornices, fireplace surrounds, or on ceiling domes. The decorative plaster ceiling molds include rosettes, medallions, and roses, and they’re very unique additions that can boost your decor. 

The average cost will vary with a large fluctuation depending on how intricate your design is, and how large it is. If you wanted a very finely detailed cornice in your home, you’d pay around $1.50 a square foot.

Cheat Sheet for Remodeling Terms

When you talk about plastering a room, there are a few terms you should know to help avoid confusion. They include: 

  • Asbestos – This is a fire-resistant silicate mineral that you can find in older construction materials, including paint. When this product starts to deteriorate due to old age or damage, it can release particles out into the air. This is a carcinogen, and it’s very bad for your health. 
  • Crown Molding – This is a decorative finish that gives you visual interest in your room, and you’ll see it where the top of the wall meets the ceiling. It can also outline where the window meets the wall. 
  • Drywall – Drywall is a type of plasterboard, and it’s a very common material used to make ceilings and walls. It uses gypsum that gets layered between several sheets of heavy paper. 
  • Joint Compound – Joint compound is a material that you will use to fill and smooth over any gaps between your drywall sheets to give you a flat, even finish. It is made of clay, gypsum, and latex resin that you mix with water. 
  • Plasterers – This is a paste featuring water, sand, and either cement, gypsum, or lime. It forms a hard and smooth surface on your ceilings, walls, or other structures. 
  • Scaffolding – This is a temporary structure that you’ll use during maintenance, construction, or painting projects to support and raise workers, equipment, and materials. 
  • Stucco – Stucco is a durable plaster finish that has a binder, aggregates, and water. You’ll find it used in walls, masonry, ceilings, and a host of decorative moldings.
  •  Veneer – It’s a very thin layer of a decorative finish that you apply to more coarse construction materials.

Frequently Asked Questions

Painting the House by Bill Barber / CC BY-NC 2.0 It’s very common to have questions if you’ve never had to plaster a room before. Asking questions will ensure that you do the project correctly, and the biggest questions to ask include: 

1. Does using plaster come with any disadvantages?

The time it takes and the cost are the two biggest disadvantages of using plaster in your home. Applying plaster is also a messy process from start to finish. Your plaster walls can easily block your Wi-Fi signals, and it’s more difficult to decorate and hang up decor or pictures because the surface is very hard. 

2. Is it expensive to put up plaster walls?

When you compare it to drywall, plaster is more expensive. Plaster can easily range from $5.00 to $10.00 a square foot, any drywall typically falls between $1.50 adn $3.50 a square foot for materials and installation. 

3. How do you treat mold on plaster walls?

If you have mold on your plaster walls, you want to carefully clean them with a non-ammonia based soap and water. You should then clean them a second time with a gallon of water and one cup of bleach mixture. 

4. Will plaster crack as it ages?

It’s normal for plaster to develop hairline cracks. If you start to see several cracks that include discoloration, bulging, or bubbling, or the cracks all converge in one direction, you should start to worry. This all points to your house settling. 

5. What is the average cost to plaster a ceiling?

To plaster a ceiling, you’ll pay a little more than you would a wall at $300 to $800. The actual price will depend on the height and size of the room. 

Conclusion

Plastering a room is not a small project. Make sure you consider all these factors before you start. This way, you can avoid spending more than you can afford.

 

How much does it cost to apply plaster?

How Much Does It Cost To Apply Plaster?

$850

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