Formica countertop paint: How to Paint Formica Countertops and Cabinets

How to Paint Formica Countertops and Cabinets

Photo: istockphoto.com

It’s a dilemma shared by many homeowners: Yes, those tired Formica countertops and cabinet doors in the kitchen or bath date the room, but the cost to replace them exceeds your current budget. Don’t assume you simply have to accept that your space is firmly tethered to the 1970s by its avocado green or harvest gold Formica counters or cabinets, however. There’s another way to deal with outdated or ugly laminate, as long as it’s in reasonably good condition: paint.

Created in 1913 as a form of insulation, Formica—which is the brand name of the laminate made by the Formica Group—is not made entirely of plastic, despite the feel and appearance. It’s actually made from many layers of paper, which are soaked in resin, dried, and then sealed in clear melamine. Hugely popular from the 1950s through the 1970s as an inexpensive, colorful, and fairly durable countertop material, it’s no wonder that Formica is making something of a comeback today in new installations. Still, many homes still sport Formica counters or cabinets in yesterday’s colors and patterns.

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While updating the color of Formica with fresh coats of paint can be a bit time-consuming, it isn’t especially difficult, even for a beginner to the do-it-yourself scene. As long as you prep patiently and properly—starting with a bonding primer to aid paint in adhering to the slick, nonporous surface of the Formica—you can achieve professional results. This detailed guide on how to paint Formica will walk you through transforming your kitchen or bathroom from ho-hum to wow.

Tools & Materials

Drop cloths
Painter’s tape
Screwdriver
Carpenter’s pencil
Degreasing cleaner
Sponge
See full list «
Protective goggles
Work gloves
Dust mask
150-grit sandpaper
Sanding block
Vacuum
Epoxy putty
Putty knife
Cotton cleaning cloths
Bonding primer
Acrylic paint
Foam paint rollers
Acrylic or oil-based sealer
Paintbrush

Photo: istockphoto. com

How to Paint Formica

STEP 1: Prep your space with drop cloths and painter’s tape.

Whether you plan to paint Formica counters or cabinets, protect the surrounding areas—floors, namely, but also lower cabinets if painting countertops or countertops if painting upper cabinets—and any nearby fixtures using drop cloths held in place by painter’s tape.

At the same time, tape off anything near the Formica that you don’t want to get paint on.

If painting a Formica countertop, tape off the sink, the backsplash, walls that edge the counter, and the lower cabinets. If painting cabinets, tape off surrounding walls (and, potentially, hinges if you aren’t planning to unscrew them).
If you’re painting Formica cabinets, remove handles or knobs from doors and drawer fronts. Then unhinge doors and pull out drawers altogether. While it is possible to paint cabinet doors while in place, it can be easier to remove them and lay them flat during the painting process. One pro tip: If you do remove the doors and drawers, make sure to mark each with their location on the back or inside so each will be easy to replace them in their correct spot when you’re finished.

STEP 2: Remove all dirt and grease from the Formica.

Clean the Formica with a degreasing-cleaner-soaked sponge, working from top to bottom. Follow with a clean, water-soaked rag to remove any last traces of grease, and then wipe the laminate dry with a clean towel or rag.

STEP 3: Sand the Formica for better paint adhesion.

Protect your eyes, skin, and lungs from airborne laminate dust with goggles, gloves, and a dust mask. Then, use 120- or 150-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to scuff the glossy surface. (Because Formica is non-porous and slick, paint won’t adhere properly without first roughing it up a little.) Don’t neglect corners, divots, and edges, and don’t skip this step or skimp on the process—it’s tedious, but it’s crucial to achieving a professional-looking result.

RELATED: The 8 Painting Mistakes Almost Everyone Makes

STEP 4: Repair any dings that would show through a coat of paint.

Vacuum or use a clean rag to remove all traces of sanding dust so that you can inspect for imperfections. Then, repair any small holes, scratches, or cracks in the Formica surface with epoxy putty, spreading the putty as smoothly as possible with a putty knife.

Let the putty dry for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer, and then lightly sand it until it blends in with the rest of the surface.

STEP 5: Clear the dust before you continue.

Again, vacuum the Formica counter or cabinet doors to remove sanding dust. Finish by wiping these surfaces with a slightly damp rag to remove any final traces of dust—these loose particles can prevent paint from fully sticking to your Formica.

Photo: istockphoto.com

STEP 6: Roll on a coat of bonding primer.

Open a window and set up a fan to provide good ventilation; the primer and paint you will apply is generally strong-smelling stuff because of the volatile organic compounds (VOCs) the products contain.

With a paint roller, prime the Formica with a coat of bonding primer intended for glossy surfaces. Bonding primer tends to be thick, so for the smoothest application, a foam roller is best.

Once it has fully dried, apply a second coat. Let the primer dry according to the manufacturer’s directions.

STEP 7: Paint Formica with your choice of paint and color.

You can top bonding primer with either oil-based or water-based paint. Extra durable oil-based paints may make a better pick for countertops that see lots of wear and tear, but, generally speaking, water-based paints are more popular because they dry faster and give off less noxious VOCs in that time.

Stir your paint, and apply a thin, even coat to your Formica using a clean foam roller or pad. Brushes aren’t the best choice for painting over Formica; they’re likely to leave stroke marks. If painting cabinets, work from the top down; if painting a counter, start at the back and work your way forward.

Let the paint dry completely, and then apply a second coat. If you primed properly, this should be enough. If you are painting a light color over very dark Formica, however, you might need to apply a third coat of paint for full coverage.

STEP 8: Peel away the tape before you wash up.

Remove any protective painter’s tape once the paint is tacky but not quite dry. This keeps edges clean and prevents the tape from sticking or tearing.

STEP 9: Wait the full recommended dry time.

Let the paint cure for the full duration recommended by the manufacturer. This could be anywhere from hours to days, but don’t get impatient—sealing paint that isn’t properly cured is likely to end in bubbled or imperfect results as the underlying moisture tries to evaporate.

RELATED: 12 Easy Fixes for a Botched Paint Job

STEP 10: Top with a sealer to protect your paint job.

Seal your painted counter or cabinets with a clear semi- or high-gloss protective finish. Use oil-based polyurethane over oil-based paint or clear acrylic sealer over acrylic paint. Apply two coats of sealant, allowing time to dry completely between the two passes. You’ll achieve the smoothest results with a natural-bristle paintbrush for oil-based polyurethane or a synthetic-bristle paintbrush for acrylic sealer.

STEP 11: Reassemble your kitchen or bathroom.

Replace hardware, return your cabinet doors to their proper positions if you removed them for painting, and clean up your work area. Your job is complete!

Go easy on your freshly painted Formica for a couple of weeks. Even though the primer may dry quickly, it needs time to cure completely. During this time, don’t scrub the surface—just wipe with a damp sponge if necessary.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Caring for Painted Formica

Congratulations! Now that you’ve completed the steps for how to paint Formica, you’ve given your kitchen or bathroom a whole new look—and you didn’t have to spend a bundle to do it. Follow these tips to keep your newly painted Formica counters or cabinets looking their best.

Don’t cut directly on your painted countertop. Instead, use a plate or a cutting board to prevent scratches or dents.
Avoid scorch marks by protecting your counters with a trivet, mat, or towel before setting down a hot bowl, plate, or pan.
Even though the paint is sealed, overly vigorous scrubbing could still lift or strip the paint. Avoid abrasive scrubs, steel wool, or stiff scrubbing brushes. When removing grease from everyday cooking, for example, clean your painted Formica using a sponge or rag with a gentle liquid cleaner.

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Painting Formica in 10 Steps

Choose your Formica paint color and read on to find out how you can easily and affordably bring your kitchen into the modern era with this simple DIY.

For many people, the kitchen is the heart of the home. It’s the place where everyone gathers to enjoy each other’s company, so it makes sense that you’d want it to look its best. The downside? The kitchen can also be the most intimidating and costly room in your home to renovate.

Big-ticket items like cabinets and countertops are some of the most expensive to replace, and the first to show your home’s age. If you’ve ever wondered whether you can paint Formica, you’re in luck. You can take that 70’s avocado-green counter and make it look brand new with a fresh coat of Formica paint.

10 steps to painting Formica

Step 1: Choose your Formica paint color

You’ve asked the question, “can you paint Formica?” You’ve learned the answer is yes! The next part may be the most exciting – choosing your Formica paint color. Make sure to choose a semi-gloss or high-gloss enamel paint. This will stand up well to knicks, dents, and scratches, and provide the toughest painted surface to sustain daily wear and tear.

Step 2: Prep your workspace

Now that your Formica paint has been chosen, let’s prepare your workspace. Clear everything off your counters and wash with a damp rag and a kitchen counter degreaser. Don’t forget to lay a drop cloth on the surrounding floor to protect from paint splatter.

Step 3: Sand counter

Sand your counter using 150-250 grit sandpaper. This will dull down your counter’s smooth surface and help your paint adhere better.

Step 4: Fill counter imperfections

Using an epoxy putty, fill any holes, scratches or dents to create a smooth countertop for painting.

Step 5: Tape the edges

Using painter’s tape, tape off any edges you don’t want to be covered in paint. This will also ensure you get pin-straight lines to help you achieve that professional, polished look.

Step 6: Apply primer

Next, take out your roller and apply a water-based bonding primer. Depending on the Formica paint color you are looking to apply, this may require two coats. Use a high-quality paintbrush to get in any tight corners or edges. When the primer is dry to the touch, you’re ready to move onto the next step.

Step 7: Paint counter

Stir paint, then pour into a tray. Using your paintbrush, smoothly apply the paint to the edges and corners. Next, use your roll in long smooth strokes to apply the rest of the paint. Depending on your Formica paint color, you may want to use two coats. Wait until the first coat is dry to the touch before applying the second coat.

Step 8: Apply top coat

Once your paint is dry, you can apply a protective sealant. Choose a high-quality clear gloss acrylic topcoat. This will provide another protective barrier against daily use.

Step 9: Remove tape

Once your countertop has been dry for 24 hours, you can carefully remove the tape. The sealant will take 2 – 3 weeks to cure, but that doesn’t mean you can’t gently use your counter. Do not scrub or use abrasive chemicals until the sealant has cured. In the meantime, gently wipe with a damp rag and water and avoid setting heavy objects on top of it.

Step 10: Enjoy

Congratulations! Your counter has been brought out of the past and into the present day. Accessorize your space to reflect your updated look.

Products and tools you’ll need to paint Formica

Semi-gloss or high-gloss enamel paint – Choose a Formica paint color to brighten and modernize your space.
Kitchen counter degreaser – A critical step to ensure you have a clean surface to work on.
Dropcloth – Protect your floors from paint splatter, it’s bound to happen!
150-250 grit sandpaper – Rough up your Formica to allow for better paint adhesion.
Epoxy putty – Fill in any cracks or knicks for a smooth painting surface.
Painter’s tape – Protect your walls or tile from paint and create smooth, clean edges for painting.
Water-based bonding primer – The first step to achieving your new countertops.
Paintbrush – Tackle tight corners and edges.
Painter’s stir stick – Prepare your paint for application.
Painter’s tray – Helps you dab off excess paint before each use.
Clear gloss acrylic topcoat – Seals your countertop and protects your new color from daily wear and tear.

Don’t want to use chemicals? Here’s how to paint Formica naturally

It’s no secret that some paints contain harmful chemicals. Different people and environments can make for varying reactions to chemicals, making it tough to know how the Formica paint you choose could impact your health. But there is a healthier alternative to help you cover your bases.

Look for primer and paint that are non-toxic and ‘No-VOC’ or ‘zero VOC.’ VOC stands for volatile organic compounds. The gasses that VOCs emit may have short term consequences including headaches and dizziness, while the long-term consequences are more uncertain.

Using a non-toxic primer and paint products will help you reduce the risk of harmful chemical exposure in your home.

The bottom line on how to paint Formica

Ten simple steps and a fresh coat of Formica paint can quickly bring your home back into the present day. A project that once seemed daunting and expensive is only a weekend away. With the right supplies and know-how, you can forget about hiring professionals to replace your countertops with expensive quartz or granite and give your home the quick refresh it needs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you paint Formica?

Yes, Formica is easy to paint and is often done in rental suites or DIY makeovers to quickly and affordably update your kitchen efficiently.

Do you need to seal your paint job with a topcoat?

Yes, the kitchen counter is used every day and can experience a lot of wear and tear. The sealant will protect your counter’s smooth and glossy finish and keep it looking new longer.

How to Paint Formica Countertops

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Ugly counters? Painting formica countertops will change the whole look!

What can you do when you buy a house that has really ugly formica kitchen countertops? You could remove them and put in a new one.

You know what else you can do? Paint it! Follow along as we take you through one of our home projects.

Here’s how to paint a counter top and completely change the look of the kitchen.

We made our counter top look like Granite. But first let me show you just WHY we felt so strongly about changing out the colour of the kitchen counter.

It won’t take long for you to understand our reasoning.

Yup, seriously. Welcome to the ’70’s!

This kitchen was in our small place in California. It was built in the early 1970’s – you think the counter top is crazy? This was a popular color for formica countertops back then.

Check out the wallpaper in those bottom cabinets! Double Crazy!

I wasn’t living in a place with a lime green counter top. No way, sorry. I woke up to this screaming at me for a few weeks.

Listen, I am not a morning person – I like my first cup of coffee in silence. So, this was not going to work. Way too jarring, at any time during the day to be honest.

We looked into replacing the counter top. There was only one problem…

The counter is curved, here’s a closeup. That ruled out heading to the home improvement store and getting a stock counter, right?

We would have to order a custom counter top and that would be pretty expensive.

A custom counter would also take weeks to get delivered. We had to find another way.

Painting Formica Countertops to Look Like Granite

And that’s when I read about this Giani Countertop Paint Kit – it includes both the primer and paint you need.

We had to go searching high and low for it, but later I found that you can buy the kit on Amazon.

Giani Countertop Paint Kits

The Giani countertop paint kit is perfect for updating your counters in the kitchen or bathroom.

This wasn’t a hard project, but it does take several days. You have to do a lot of prep work (which makes sense, right?)

Graham removed the stove top and the sink. He removed the caulk at the top of the backsplash.

Then we scrubbed the counter down with TSP and SOS pads. Right before we started the painting, we again were sure to wipe the counters again, to be sure they were free of any dirt or dust.

We used Painter’s Tape to mask all the edges. There were some deep scratches or nicks in the counter, so we had to patch them with wood patch.

We let it dry and then sanded it down nice and smooth.

Primer – Painting Formica Countertops

OK, ready for painting. The first coat was just black primer for the background.

Absolutely everything you need (aside from prep work) is included in the Giani Kit. Graham rolled it on in 3 foot sections, so that there would always be a wet edge.

You only need to put one one coat of primer! Don’t put on multiple coats of paint, and you shouldn’t have to; the coverage is really excellent. The one coat covered that old lime green counter top really well.

Take a really good look at the entire counter when you have finished painting the primer. You need to make sure the old counter top doesn’t show underneath at all.

Let the paint dry for 8 hours. It is really important to let the primer dry completely.

We took a lot of time with this kitchen project. We really wanted to be sure to give the paint lots of time to dry.

Sponge Painting Formica Countertops

Now here comes the fun part. I admit I was a bit nervous to get started on this part – the sponging!

But really it was easy to do it and once you get in the groove, just keep on going until you are done.

Ready for Sponging

I used a paper plate to hold small amounts of paint and cut the included sponge into several smaller pieces.

Working in small sections, I sponged one color of paint at a time. There are 3 colors included in the kit and you can work with them at the same time or sponge them on one at a time.

I practiced a bit on the paper plate before starting on the actual counter. The only tricky part is to keep it even as you go along.

As in if you’re going to dab that much over here, you also need to dab that much over there.

Know what I mean? That’s how you get it looking like granite. Don’t push with the sponge, just lightly dab the paint on.

Once you are done and satisfied with the way it looks, let it dry for 4 hours. (We left it alone overnight.)

At this point, it was time to pull out the sander and sand the counter top.

It has to be sanded smooth because the sponging leaves raised bumps all over the counter. Graham used 600 grit sandpaper.

After he finished, I wiped down the surface and we got ready for the final step.

Ready for the Top Coat

Included in the kit is the topcoat. Using the roller included in the kit, we applied the topcoat. We made sure to keep a wet edge. After letting it dry for 4 hours, we put one final topcoat on.

(A close up of our finished counter – ignore that bright spot, that is just a reflection)

There is no need to sand the counter again before the second coat. Then we removed the Painters Tape and walked away.

We left the counter alone for a few days, but Giani says you can use the counters in 24 hours.

I’m a Nervous Nellie when it comes to this kind of thing, so we waited several days before putting the coffee maker and toaster back on the counter.

What do you think? One of the great things about using this product is that every counter top will look different.

Yours will look different than mine, because two different people are doing the sponging.

Giani has several different kits with a variety of colors.

We wanted ours to have the dark background but you can choose the kit with a light background if that is what you would like.

And here is the finished kitchen….

The Finished Kitchen

We were really happy with the way it turned out.

The best part? Under

$100. Believe it!

We managed to completely change the look of the kitchen for under $100. And it really does look like granite.

We were so glad to get this project done; it didn’t take long and it completely transformed the kitchen. And I even like the curved counter top now!

So if you have a house that needs a little updating when it comes to the counter top, think about trying this instead of going to the expense of installing new counter tops.

If you are going to paint formica countertops, I really recommend this Giani Kit. It is durable, looks great and is easy to clean with soap and regular cleaners.

We even had enough left from the kit that we could do the bathroom vanity. Bonus!

FAQ’s:

What is the difference between painting formica countertops and painting laminate countertops?

Nothing. The only difference is the terms that are being used. Formica is a brand name, whereas laminate is the name of the actual material.

What if I want to have a marble countertop instead of granite countertop?

If you want a marble look rather than granite, Giani has a Marble Countertop Kit – you use a very fine paintbrush to paint veins in various shades on the counter.

Painting Formica countertops is one of the cheapest and easiest ways

to completely update your kitchen and bathroom.

Interested in our other home renovation projects?

How to Fix Up That Ugly Stairwell – You HAVE to see this “before” picture; that stairwell was scary and super ugly!

Building Closets in the Loft – we needed more closet space and so we turn the loft off of our master bedroom into a spacious closet area.

How to Paint Over Ugly 1970’s Wood Paneling – we had to. We just had to.

We brightened up the entire house with this very simple project!

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How To Paint Laminate Countertops

Replacing countertops isn’t a whole lot of fun. First, it’s expensive: A new granite countertop can cost as much as $100 per square foot. Then, factor in removing the old countertops without damaging the cabinets, and the stakes are even higher.

Finally, the disruption a big kitchen reno can cause is typically a massive headache. But, there’s good news: You can avoid the expense and inconvenience and still achieve a new look—if you know how to paint laminate countertops.

Can You Paint Laminate Counters?

Laminate counters are absolutely a candidate for a paint-based makeover.

Most homeowners believe they have two choices: rip out their counters and start fresh or live with what they have. But there’s a third option that’s often best. They can learn how to paint their laminate countertops to achieve an entirely new and improved look. All it takes is a bit of research, some prep work, and the right tools and materials.

How To Paint Laminate Countertops

Painting laminate kitchen countertops is well within the capabilities of a DIY-savvy homeowner. This section will cover everything you need to know for a new laminate countertop look.

Tools and materials

You’ll need several items, but most are fairly affordable, and you may even have a few on hand already:

Contact cement
Medium-grit sandpaper
Sanding block
Palm sander (optional)
Small paint roller and roller covers
Paint tray, fitted with liner, plus extra liners
Paintbrush
Rag
Mineral spirits
Painter’s tape
1 gallon latex-based primer
1 gallon latex-based paint
1 gallon topcoat sealer

Step 1: Prepare the surface

Laminate countertops are smooth from the factory, so they aren’t a great surface for priming or painting—at least initially.

Give the primer and paint something to grab onto by scratching the countertop’s surface with medium-grit sandpaper (220 is usually sufficient). A palm sander is optional and will speed up the process, but you’ll need the sanding block for the corners and backsplash. The goal is not to sand through the laminate but just to scratch it up.
Once sufficiently scratched, use a rag and some mineral spirits to clean the dust from the surface. Be sure to check for any areas you might’ve missed and give them a quick scuffing as well.
Also, take note of sections of laminate separating from the particle board underneath and repair them with some contact cement.

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape

Once the mineral spirits have dried, move on to taping along the countertop’s edges. Be sure to tape anything directly adjacent to the counter, such as the sink, cabinets, refrigerator, stove, and wall.

Steps 3: Prime the laminate countertops

With everything taped, you can begin priming the counter.

Start by pouring some primer into the paint tray, then, with a back-and-forth motion, use the roller to apply it to the laminate counter. Be sure to overlap each previous pass by a few inches to ensure you’re maintaining a wet edge.
When you get to the inside corners and the edges, be sure to switch to the paintbrush. It’s best to brush the primer onto the counter while the rolled primer is still wet, as it will dry with a more consistent, flat texture.
Always allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4: Prepare for paint

While the primer is drying, you can start preparing for paint.

Pour any remaining primer back into the can, discard the tray liner, and place a new liner in the tray.
Throw out the roller cover and clean the paintbrush with soap and water (mineral spirits also work well).

Step 5: Paint the laminate countertops

You can start painting the countertops as soon as the primer is completely dry.

Mix and pour some paint into the paint tray and use a fresh paint roller cover to apply it to the laminate countertop.
Be sure to overlap each stroke to ensure you’re maintaining a wet edge. Again, switch to the brush when you reach inside corners, the sink, the backsplash, or other hard-to-reach areas.
Most laminate counters will require a second coat, so repeat the process once the first coat dries.
After the second coat, clean the paintbrush and replace the tray liner and roller cover.

Step 6: Apply the topcoat

The final step in painting laminate kitchen countertops is to protect the painted surface with a water-based topcoat, also known as a clear coat. This layer will protect the paint from water and other sources of damage.

Applying the topcoat is very similar to the priming and painting process. The only difference is that the clear coat can be difficult to see, so take your time.
Be sure to overlap each roller stroke to ensure a wet edge, and use the brush to cover the corners, edges, and other areas. A second coat is highly recommended, but luckily, latex-based topcoats dry quickly.

And, with that final layer of topcoat dry, you’ve given a fresh new look to an old laminate countertop. The painted surface is durable, but not quite as resistant to water and scratches as the laminate, so be sure to wipe up spills quickly and avoid scratching the paint as much as possible.

The 7 Best DIY Countertop Refinishing Kits of 2022

Theresa Holland

Theresa Holland is a freelance writer specializing in home improvement, cleaning, and bedding. She shares her favorite life hacks on her blog The Taboo Textbook.

Learn more about The Spruce’s
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Updated on 04/23/22

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The Spruce / Chloe Jeong

If you’re not ready to replace them, a DIY countertop refinishing kit allows you to refresh the look of your countertops without making a significant investment. We researched dozens of the top refinishing kits on the market, rating them on ease of application, adhesion, and durability.

Our top choice, the DAICH SpreadStone Mineral Select Countertop Refinishing Kit, is made of natural stone, has a semi-gloss finish, and can be used on laminate, plywood and particle board.

Here are the best DIY countertop refinishing kits.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall:

DAICH SpreadStone Mineral Select at Home Depot

Best Budget:

Rust-Oleum Countertop Coating at Walmart

Best for Kitchens:

Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations at Amazon

Best for Bathrooms:

Beyond Paint Countertop Makeover Refinishing Kit at Home Depot

Best for Concrete:

TotalBoat Epoxy Resin & Hardener Kit at Amazon

Best Granite Finish:

Giani DIY Granite at Amazon

Best for Tile:

Rust-Oleum Tub & Tile Refinishing Kit at Amazon

In This Article

Our Picks
What to Look For
Why Trust The Spruce

Courtesy of The Home Depot

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What do buyers say? 2,100+ Home Depot reviewers rated this product 4 stars or above.

Our No. 1 pick is DAICH SpreadStone Mineral Select. This low-VOC refinishing product is made of real stone and comes in lots of natural colors and finishes. The three-step kit creates an entirely new surface over your existing kitchen or bathroom countertops.

You don’t need any special tools or resurfacing experience either. Just roll on each layer as directed by the easy-to-follow instructions. Then, watch as all existing flaws and finishes imperfections disappear and your counters transform into a durable, even, semi-gloss stone surface.

Courtesy of The Home Depot

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If you’re looking for a more affordable option, consider picking up a can of Rust-Oleum Countertop Coating. It’s formulated with epoxy and acrylic to restore laminate and other synthetic materials, leaving counters with a smooth, durable, scratch-resistant finish. The base can be tinted to 12 different colors or left as is with a white satin sheen.

This resurfacing kit can be used on various countertops, bar tops, and workbenches in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, offices, or studios. It covers as much as 25 linear feet and is dry to the touch within a couple of hours. Once the coating cures, it’s resistant to moisture, bacteria, mold, and mildew.

Courtesy of Amazon

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The best option for kitchen countertops is the Do-It-Yourself Countertop Coating System from Rust-Oleum, though it’s also suitable for bathrooms. If your counters are looking dingy or dated, the quick and hassle-free system is an excellent solution. You can even use it to update your kitchen backsplash.

It’s available in two sizes (small and large) and four stone colors (Desert Sand, Charcoal, Java Stone, and Onyx). This user-friendly kit comes with easy-to-follow instructions, doesn’t require any special skills or tools, and is dry to the touch within 12 hours.

When you’re finished, you’ll have a durable, water-resistant, aesthetically pleasing surface that’ll last for years. Plus, the super-strong silicone-epoxy formula won’t yellow over time.

The 8 Best Kitchen Carts of 2022

Courtesy of Beyond Paint

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If your bathroom counters could use a facelift, we suggest getting a Beyond Paint Countertop Makeover Refinishing Kit. The unique water-based formula is a bonder, primer, and finisher all in one.

It’s easy to apply—no stripping or sanding needed—and dries quickly. Once the solution cures, you’ll have a beautiful, professional-looking, washable surface. This multi-surface product can also be used on cabinets, fixtures, and other bathroom accessories if you’re feeling inspired to transform the whole space.

The 8 Best Tub Repair Kits for Chips and Scratches

Courtesy of Amazon

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If you have concrete counters in your home, we recommend TotalBoat TableTop Epoxy Resin & Hardener Kit. The two-part epoxy formula is easy to use. Just mix a 1:1 ratio of the resin and hardener, and tint it to your desired color (or leave it as is). Then, pour it onto your countertops at room temperature, and watch as it self-levels and cures.

The result? A super-glossy, crystal-clear, and ultra-smooth finish that’s resistant to scratches, stains, and yellowing. What’s more, TotalBoat is 100 percent waterproof once it cures. Aside from concrete, it can be used on stone, wood, ceramic, and metal.

Courtesy of Amazon

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If you like the look of granite counters, pick up a Giani Granite Countertop Kit. It comes in a few different colors, too, including bright white, brown, and slate. The low-VOC, low-odor system uses water-based acrylic paint to transform old surfaces and extend their lifespan without replacing them.

It can be used to cover laminate, Formica, ceramic, wood, marble, or existing granite. This kit is easy to follow with step-by-step instructions. You can effortlessly mimic the appearance of natural granite within just a couple of days. Once dry, you’ll have a resilient, high-gloss finish with an acrylic topcoat for added protection against wear and tear.

The Best Granite Cleaners to Prolong the Life of Your Counters

Courtesy of Home Depot

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If you’re looking to resurface ceramic or porcelain tile counters, we recommend Rust-Oleum Tub & Tile. This refinishing kit comes with a two-part epoxy-acrylic formula that can be prepped and painted within hours. Once cured, your tile countertops will be completely transformed with a hard, protective coating that resists moisture damage and corrosion.

The Best Bathroom Sets to Suit Every Style

Final Verdict

Our top choice for resurfacing counters is the DAICH SpreadStone Mineral Select Countertop Refinishing Kit (view at Home Depot). This user-friendly three-step system allows you to create an entirely new surface with a formula containing real stone. With that said, Rust-Oleum Countertop Coating (view at Home Depot) is an excellent option if you’re on a budget. The affordable, easy-to-use solution can be tinted to several colors and leaves a smooth, durable finish.

Application

Depending on the countertop refinishing kit you choose, the application process may require several steps. Some require stripping and sanding your existing counters, while others can be poured or painted on top and will cure over a short period of time. Look for kits that come with necessary tools, such as brushes and primers, for the easiest application experience.

Odor

Some countertop refinishing kits emit strong VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that have a strong smell and can be harmful to inhale—especially when they are heavily concentrated indoors. Look for kits that tout low VOCs, and always wear a mask when applying a substance that may contain chemicals. As an added step, make sure to open a window or two for proper ventilation in the process.

Resiliency

Keep an eye out for countertop refinishing kits that promise water, chip, and scuff resistance. This will help maintain the look of your countertops for a longer period of time, and make them more well-equipped for handling the wear and tear of everyday life. Most kits come with a finisher or topcoat as a final step. This will seal your work and secure its resiliency for the long run.

FAQ

Concrete countertops can be tricky to refinish because you typically need to remove the sealer on top first. This may require sanding or for you to chemically strip the sealer off. However, if your counters are in good shape and you’re looking to restore their former luster, a simple wax and re-buff may be enough to make them shiny and new again.
To refinish a bathroom countertop, first, you’ll want to remove the sink faucet. Then, you should start by scraping or sanding off the sealant from your existing counters, before taping off the edges of both the surrounding walls and your sink. After that, mix up your countertop refinishing kit and get to work. Don’t forget to seal the countertop with a durable epoxy or resin and provide the room with plenty of ventilation.
Laminate countertops can easily be refinished. Usually, these counter types can be painted over, covered with contact paper, or refinished with a counter refinishing kit to look brand new. Just make sure to thoroughly clean the surface before applying your desired refinishing method, and finish it off with a few coats of enamel to seal in your work.

This roundup was written by Theresa Holland, a freelance writer and homeowner with substantial professional and personal experience covering home improvement products. You can find more of her writing on Byrdie and MyDomaine. Additional reporting was done by Mackenzie Dunn, a writer and editor with expertise in the fashion, beauty, home, and lifestyle spaces. She enjoys covering a wide variety of topics from decor trends to cleaning hacks and has a penchant for curated bookshelves and cozy throw blankets.

How to Paint Countertops

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Mackenzie is a writer and editor for The Spruce with expertise in the fashion, beauty, home, and lifestyle spaces.

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How my Painted Countertops Look After 3 Years of Use

Since sharing my budget kitchen makeover a few weeks ago, the number one question I have been asked is how my painted laminate countertops are holding up. It has been almost three years since I originally painted my countertops and they have definitely been put to the test during that time!

Today I am sharing all of the details about how our countertops look today, the pros and cons of the countertop painting method I used, and what I would do differently if I were starting all over today.

If you haven’t yet, be sure to read my tutorial on the actual process of painting laminate countertops including the cost and time involved.

This post contains affiliate links which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link I will earn a small commission but it won’t cost you a penny more. Click here to see my full disclosure policy.

Painting Laminate Countertops: The Good

I chose to paint our laminate countertops because they were incredibly ugly and more than ready for an update.

To be honest, I was unsure about painting our laminate countertops. Kitchen countertops get daily use and abuse from water, heat, spills, and constant cleaning.

And in our house, they take an extra hard beating. My three boys are two, four, and six years old and they have definitely put every surface in our home to the test.

The bar stools at our kitchen counter are their favorite spot to eat breakfast and lunch, do homework, play with toys, do art projects, build with Legos. Basically anything the older two don’t want the toddler messing with, gets done at the counter.

barstools, fireplace painting tutorial, DIY mantel tutorial

I worried that with all of that heavy use, paint was not a very practical solution.

Thankfully, I was wrong and the counters have actually held up very well!

When I finished painting and sealing our countertops, I loved them right away. They were shiny and clean and so much more beautiful than the horrible laminate we had before.

And they still look as shiny and new as they did when I finished painting them. The paint has not faded, chipped, worn away, or scratched off at all. Hallelujah!

Painting Laminate Countertops: The Bad

Even though our countertops overall look amazing and I absolutely continue to love them, they aren’t perfect. I’m going to get a bit nit-picky here, but I’m a perfectionist, it’s what I do.

Plus I want to share all of the relevant details so you can make the best decision about whether or not this is a project for you.

The biggest issue I have had is some slight yellowing of my countertops, most noticeably in the corner beside our range.

I am not sure what the cause is, but it is something that happened during the initial painting/sealing process. I noticed the yellowing within a few weeks of finishing the countertops and it hasn’t gotten worse at all in the months and years since.

The yellowing itself is very slight. There are no yellow, discolored spots; there is simply a more yellow undertone than I would like.

It is very subtle. My husband doesn’t see it at all. But I do, especially against the white range, white cabinets, and white backsplash areas. It isn’t something that bothers me a lot, but is something to be aware of.

The other issue I have noticed is that there are a few areas where you can see light scratches on the countertop finish when the light hits it. This is primarily an issue in the area where the kids like to do craft projects and is only noticeable when the light hits at a certain angle.

This is an extreme close-up of some of the scratches. They are really hard to capture in a photo but hopefully, you can get the idea.

There may be some way to buff these scratches out, but they are so minor, I really haven’t looked into it.

The Best Paint for Countertops

Ok, so here’s the thing. It really doesn’t matter what kind of paint you use. I know that sounds like a lame answer, but it is true.

Using a certain kind of paint is not the key to painting countertops so they last. I used a combination of leftover wall paint and acrylic craft paint and both were great. You absolutely do not need to buy a special countertop painting kit unless you really want to.

If you use a good primer and a high quality sealer, it doesn’t matter what paint you use on your countertops. The paint is simply the color – the sealer is the actual finish that takes all of the abuse. (This is the primer I use for almost everything because it sticks to anything.)

The key to the longevity of our painted countertops is 100% the resin topcoat I used over the paint. Resin is a thick clear finish that you pour on rather than brushing on.

It gives the finished project a glossy, three dimensional look that more closely mimics the look of a true solid countertop. When the light from the window hits the countertop, it shines through the layers of the finish rather than simply bouncing off.

painted cabinets tutorial, stenciled backsplash tutorial

Working with this type of pour-on finish is more difficult than simply painting on a top coat and has a bit of a learning curve, but the finished look is so worth it.

(Several people share their after photos in the product reviews on Amazon if you are looking for more examples and they are all amazing.)

Would I do anything differently?

First of all, if I had it to do all over again, I would most definitely still paint my countertops. Changing the dated laminate without the expense of actually replacing the countertops was completely worth it.

And I would also use the same resin sealer. Even though it hasn’t been perfect, it has held up incredibly well and just looks so darn good.

I do, however, wish that I had added a lot more gray graining to my ‘marble’ countertops. Once the sealer was added, the shine and dimension really softened the color variation in the paint finish.

The marbling of the final countertops is a lot more subtle than I would have liked. In fact they more closely resemble white quartz countertops than marble – but since it’s really just paint, I’m pretty happy with that result!

In fact to make things even easier, I would love to try using marble contact paper instead of paint. I know, I know, nothing says classy like a contact paper countertop, but I think it could be a beautiful, inexpensive solution.

There is some really gorgeous contact paper available these days that looks very similar to Carrara marble. I don’t think contact paper alone would necessarily make a long-lasting countertop, but you could easily use the same resin finish over the contact paper.

That way the paper does the hard work of mimicking a true marble finish and the resin takes care of making everything durable and shiny.

And that’s it. The good, the bad, and the ugly of our painted laminate countertops nearly three years later. If you have other questions I did not address, be sure to let me know in the comments.

And if you haven’t checked out the rest of our budget kitchen makeover, you are in for a treat! You can see the entire kitchen reveal here including info on all of the DIY projects involved.

More budget kitchen DIY projects to check out:

Painting Oak Cabinets White
My Painted Cabinets Two Years Later: The good, the bad, the ugly
Stenciled Kitchen Backsplash
Painted Countertops: How to Paint Your Countertops to Look Like Marble
Where to Buy Inexpensive Cabinet Knobs and Pulls

Google Web Story: How my Painted Countertops look After Three Years

How to cover ugly formica countertops?

How to cover ugly formica countertops?

How do I coat old Formica countertops? Put laminate on top

If you have old laminate countertops (Formica, Wilsonart, etc. ) with square edges, you can cover them with a layer of new laminate, which is sold in sheets up to 5 feet wide and up to 12 feet long .

Can I refurbish Formica countertops? For example, a Formica countertop that is nearing the end of its life can be refreshed by first sanding the surface so that an adhesive such as epoxy can easily adhere to the surface. Wait for the epoxy to dry, then sand the surface with an electric grinder to give the surface an industrial concrete look.

How do you temporarily cover ugly countertops? Unsightly old countertops can be temporarily turned granite with something like Appliance Art’s Instant Granite. As with contact paper, Instant Granite can be applied directly to old countertops and pulled back out when you’re ready to move again.

How long will the peel and stick worktop last?

To remove, he says to heat a hair dryer on one corner to melt the adhesive, then slowly pull the counter up, heating and melting as you go. To give you an idea of quality and durability, let’s say that the maximum warranty period is about five years.

How can Formica top be coated?

Use paint to coat old laminate flooring and give it a new fresh color. Oil paint will hold up if countertops are properly prepared and finished. This includes cleaning through, sanding and re-cleaning followed by a coat of primer designed to bond to the plastic.

What paint do you use on Formica?

Products and Tools You’ll Need to Paint Formica

Semi Gloss or High Gloss Enamel Paint – Choose a Formica paint color to brighten and modernize your space. A kitchen countertop degreaser is an important step to make sure you have a clean surface to work with.

Can I paint over Formica?

Formica® Worktops – Can they just be painted? Yes, Formica® countertops can be painted, and over time people have begun using latex paints, epoxies, and even enamel spray paint.

Can a new laminate be glued onto an old laminate worktop?

A: Yes, but the existing surface must be level and smooth. Repair any gouges or loose edges and make sure the existing laminate is firmly bonded. Bond the new laminate with contact adhesive applied with a natural bristle brush. (Be sure your work area is well ventilated when working with contact cement.)

Is Formica the same as laminate?

Formica is a laminate, a brand name for a specific manufacturer’s laminate for use on an underlay. It may be of a different quality or have a better warranty, but Formica is a type of laminate flooring.

Can kitchen worktops be coated?

Resurfacing a countertop is a fairly simple process of covering an existing surface with tiles or sheeting. In just a few hours or days, you can give your kitchen a whole new look for a fraction of the price of brand new countertops. Sanding works best on a smooth laminate.

Damage to the countertop from peel and sticks?

This peel and stick can be used as wallpaper or on other surfaces. But for a kitchen countertop, it is still perfect. It is water resistant, oil resistant and dirt resistant. It is made of durable plastic so you don’t have to worry about damaging it.

Are the finishing and gluing tiles suitable for worktops?

Cleaned and glued tiles are a great way to renovate. Sometimes referred to as self-adhesive countertop laminate, tile offers homeowners an economical option for decorating old or distressed countertops. Vinyl tile provides a durable and easy-to-clean surface in high-traffic kitchens.

How well does the contact paper adhere to the table top?

Contact paper is inherently strong and unless a hot pot is placed on it, it is very strong and does not need to be sealed. However, you can apply sealant around the edges of the cut where there is a lot of water and moisture present, such as in the kitchen or bathroom.

How much does it cost to coat a countertop with epoxy?

How much do epoxy countertops cost? Epoxy resin countertops can cost $100 to $200 per square foot for professionally made surfaces. Even a DIY epoxy countertop kit can cost anywhere from $100 to $200 plus your sanity considering how difficult they are to install.

How long will epoxy resin countertops last?

In general, epoxy resin countertops have generally performed well over time. Epoxy resin countertops can easily last 10 years or more with proper care. Epoxy resin countertops are non-scratch and resistant to most causes of meter damage. They will definitely outlive laminate countertops and similarly priced products.

How long will treated countertops last?

With proper care and maintenance, refinishing can extend the life of your fixtures by 15-20 years or more. Our bonding agent MM-4 creates a chemical bond between old and new surfaces, ensuring the long life of the repaired countertop.

What color do you use for laminate worktops?

Many recommend a water based acrylic primer, paint and top coat. Acrylic paint dries to a hard surface, essential for heavily used surfaces such as countertops, while water-based acrylic paint washes off with water and is almost odorless.

Can you put a new Formica on top of an old Formica?

For rectangular edged countertops, Formica® brand laminate can be laid over existing laminate flooring provided it has been cleaned, degreased and lightly sanded. Before cutting the surface of the laminate, check the corners with a carpenter’s square so that there are no problems later.

Can Formica be tiled?

Basics for tiling countertops over laminate

If the surface of the laminate and its underlay are in good condition, ceramic or porcelain tiles can be laid directly on top of the laminate. In fact, a laminate countertop in good condition is an almost perfect surface for tiling: flat, smooth, and level.

What is the best paint for Formica worktops?

Use epoxy based paint to paint formik countertops. It dries to become harder, more durable and will last longer than any other conventional paint. Another benefit of using epoxy paints is that they are available in many colors and styles.

What is the cheapest way to remodel a kitchen worktop?

Painting Countertops

This is probably the cheapest way to refinish old countertops, especially old wood or linoleum tops. It is very easy to paint the countertop yourself. Just sand, prime and then paint. You can use a grinder, but hand sanding will work too.

Which sealant is best for painted worktops?

Instead, invest in the best sealant you can find. You don’t need a clear polyurethane layer, use an acrylic sealant designed for countertops. Get one that is semi-gloss or glossy that are made for durability.

Can laminate be laid on top of laminate?

Laminate over old laminate is possible, but there is a product that you may need to apply to the old floor first to prevent the old pattern from wearing off under the new one. Make sure you are using the specific type of adhesive or adhesive recommended for bonding laminate tiles.

Is Formica a good choice?

Not only are Formica counters affordable, the main reason homeowners still prefer them is because of their durability. While they are not bulletproof (you can’t place very hot pots and pans directly on top of plastic, and the surfaces will sometimes get stained), they are much stronger than natural material.

Can laminate worktops be painted?

Can laminate worktops be painted? Yes, laminate can be painted, but not with conventional paints. The laminated surface of the countertop must be pre-prepared so that the paint lasts longer. The same goes for painting any smooth surface such as polished wood, cabinets, furniture, tiles, etc.

What color do you paint your laminate countertops with? Many recommend a water based acrylic primer, paint and top coat. Acrylic paint dries to a hard surface, essential for heavily used surfaces such as countertops, while water-based acrylic paint washes off with water and is almost odorless.

Can laminate or Formica be painted? There’s another way to deal with an outdated or ugly laminate, if it’s in reasonably good condition: paint it. If you patiently and properly prepare, starting with a primer to better adhere to Formica’s smooth, non-porous surface, you can achieve professional results.

Can laminate flooring be painted? Yes, you can paint laminate flooring! The frames are laminate and the doors are real wood, so they’ve aged in different colors. If you paint natural wood furniture or cabinetry, the wood will absorb some of the paint or primer into its pores, which will create a strong bond and help the paint stick to the wood.

Can enamel paint be used on laminate flooring?

The second option for sealing the laminate is to paint the surface with enamel paint. Each of these paints is designed to adhere to almost any surface (wood, metal, glass, etc.). And trust me, they do. They also harden, unlike any other paint I’ve used, so they really seal the laminate.

Can laminate worktops be polished?

. Yes, laminate can be painted, but not with conventional paints. The laminated surface of the countertop must be pre-prepared so that the paint lasts longer. The same goes for painting any smooth surface such as polished wood, cabinets, furniture, tiles, etc.

How much does it cost to replace a laminate worktop?

If you’re installing laminate countertops, expect to pay $50 to $250 per m2 for labor. However, if you want to install a high quality countertop, labor costs for wood countertops can range from $200 to $650 per m2. (Note: the price includes fabrication.)

Can laminate worktops be polished?

Laminate worktops – what is the worktop finishing process? Laminate countertops can be painted or polished. Any type of enamel or latex paint can be sprayed or applied to laminate countertops, but you’ll be disappointed if you don’t do it professionally.

Can I spray paint my laminate top?

Light brushstrokes of Rust-Oleum spray paint work best on cabinets. This time, use 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out your fresh laminate cabinets. Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy for Countertop is a super hard moisture resistant enamel that works well with your bathroom surface.

Can laminate cabinets be painted?

DO NOT PAINT DAMAGED LAMINATE

If the laminate is cracked, warped, or peeled off, this damage may prevent the paint from sticking to the cabinet. Before applying paint, make sure the laminate is in good condition by repairing minor damage to the laminate or by re-tiling the cabinets.

Which primer should I use for laminate flooring?

Zinsser Primer for Laminate Furniture

Zinsser BIN Primer – This challac-based primer adheres to all surfaces, including laminate furniture, without sanding. This primer is applied in smooth, thin coats. It dries very quickly and works with any top coat, including water-based latex paint.

What paint will Formica cover?

Products and Tools You’ll Need to Paint Formica

Are laminate flooring and Formica the same thing?

Can laminate flooring be painted without sanding?

So yes! You can paint laminate furniture without sanding! Keep in mind that if you have any scratches or nail polish stains (like mine), you’ll need to sand those areas down so you have a nice smooth surface for your paint.

How do I get paint to stick to laminate?

Lightly sand the whole part

Yes, SAND! Laminate is a smooth and non-porous surface, so it’s best to lightly rub the surface. I use 150-220 grit sandpaper to sand laminate flooring because it’s the BEST way to ensure primer and paint adhere properly.

Will chalk paint stick to laminate flooring?

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint adheres beautifully to laminate flooring. All I do is clean my part to remove any residue or dirt and then apply paint.

Will acrylic paint stick to laminate?

After the cabinets are primed, you can paint them with oil paints, acrylic paints or melamine paints. Melamine paints are specially formulated for painting laminate surfaces, as the moisture-resistant materials in the paint make it ideal for the moisture and steam that are so common in kitchens.

Does laminate paint really work?

Laminate is not the ideal surface for painting, but it can be done. If you consider painting a temporary solution until you can invest in a new cabinet, you will probably be more satisfied with the results.

Can a new laminate be glued onto an old laminate worktop?

A: Yes, but the existing surface must be level and smooth. Repair any gouges or loose edges and make sure the existing laminate is firmly bonded. Bond the new laminate with contact adhesive applied with a natural bristle brush. (When working with contact cement, make sure your work area is well ventilated. )

How to seal a laminate worktop?

Secure the tabletop segments with a full coat of silicone adhesive. Close the joint and allow excess adhesive and sealant to squeeze out of the top of the joint. Secure the connection with the work surface connectors (do not overtighten) and remove excess adhesive and sealant with a suitable solvent.

Are laminate tops suitable?

The use of laminate tops also has a number of disadvantages. They are prone to scratching, burning and burning, and the surface loses its luster over time. While quality laminate countertops are water resistant, they can be damaged by water seeping into cracks or scratches.

How much does laminating a worktop cost?

Relaminate countertop costs $200 to $650. Expect to pay $100 to $300 for materials and an additional $35 to $85 an hour for labor. You can relaminate post-formed surfaces with straight edges. You will need to replace the preformed types.

How much does it cost to polish a worktop?

What is the average cost of a countertop repair? The average cost to repair a kitchen countertop is between $2,500 and $6,000, depending on the type of material used. The cost of polishing the countertop can rise to 7000-9000 dollars for larger projects.

How do I renew my laminate worktop?

Start by sanding the entire countertop and backsplash/edge area to slightly roughen the surface and help the paint stay on forever. Then wipe off any dirt and clean the surface with mild soap and water. Wait until the surface is completely dry before moving on to the next step.

Is rustoleum top coat necessary?

Countertop Transformations uses a system of strong adhesive basecoat, decorative colored vinyl chips and a two part clear topcoat to create a very durable finish. PACKAGE . Two kit sizes are available. The small kit covers 30 square feet or 12 linear feet.

Question: How Do You Repair A Laminate Countertop??

You have a beautiful new laminate worktop in your kitchen and it looks amazing. Unfortunately, after a few weeks or months, the surface begins to peel off, leaving ugly cracks. How to fix it?

Laminate top is a type of material that combines natural wood veneer with plastic layers. They come in a variety of colors, textures and patterns and look like natural stone or solid wood.

Here’s how to repair a laminate countertop.

How do I repair a Formica worktop?

You can use a product called “Formicare” which is manufactured by Formica Corp. It is a liquid solution that dries to form a hard protective coating on Formica’s surface. The Formica product will not affect the color of the original finish.

Formica countertops are an excellent choice for kitchens because they are easy to clean, durable and affordable. However, if you notice any cracks or scratches on your Formica countertop, you can easily fix them yourself. Here’s how:

1) Use a dry cloth to wipe dirt or grease from the surface.

2) Apply a thin layer of clear nail polish to fill in the crack.

3) Leave to dry completely.

4) Wipe the area with a soft cloth.

5) Buff off excess residue

6) Repeat steps 1-5 for any other scratches.

7) Wipe with a damp cloth.

8) Wait about 30 minutes

9) Use a wet cloth to polish off the residue

10) Voila! Your Formica worktop is ready to go again.

How to repair a crack in a laminate worktop?

If the crack is small enough, you can fill it with clear silicone sealant. This is available at any home improvement store. If the crack is large, then you will have to change the entire upper part.

Laminate countertops are one of the most popular kitchen surfaces. They are durable, easy to clean and look great. However, they are not impermeable and may crack under heavy use. To repair a cracked laminate countertop, remove any loose pieces of debris that could cause damage. Then, using a spatula, apply a thin layer of epoxy to the damaged area.

Let the epoxy dry overnight. When the epoxy is fully cured, sand the surface until smooth. Apply another coat of epoxy and let dry overnight. This process must be repeated several times. After all layers have dried, give the surface a final polish.

Can laminate worktops be repaired?

Yes, but it requires special tools and skills. First, you must properly prepare the surface so that it doesn’t crack when you’re done.

Remove loose debris from the surface. Then cut out any areas where there are holes or cuts. Sand the surface with an orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper. Finally, apply two coats of polyurethane to protect the surface. Let each layer dry before applying the next.

How to glue a laminate worktop?

There are many different adhesives that work well for bonding laminate worktops. Some of them include:

• Epoxy adhesive (available at hardware stores).

• Polyurethane adhesive (available at paint shops).

• Clear silicone sealant (available at home improvement stores)

• Wood adhesive (available at home improvement centers)

• Liquid nail polish (available at home improvement stores or paint stores)

• Acrylic paint (available at home improvement stores and paint stores)

• Spray foam putty (available at a home improvement center)

• Bonding paste (available at a home improvement store)

• Wood stain (available at a home improvement/paint store)

How to repair an edge laminate countertops?

To repair the edges of a laminate worktop, use a razor blade to gently scrape off excess material. Trim the edge of the countertop to the original line. Fill the hole with wood filler. After the putty has hardened, sand the surface. Finish by coloring the area.

How do I fix an uneven countertop?

Use a ruler to mark the level of the worktop. Using a utility knife, make cuts in the countertop every inch or so. Remove the old countertop material and then install the new material over the cut lines. Level the surface with a grinder. Use fine grit sandpaper to finish the surface.

Can you polish Formica worktops?

Formica is a type of laminate used for kitchen worktops. It is available in various colors and finishes.

The best way to polish a Formica countertop is to first sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper, then 320 grit sandpaper, and finally 400 grit sandpaper until the surface is smooth. Then apply three coats of clear sealant. Refinishing Formica counters can be done easily. You can simply wipe the surface with a damp cloth and wipe away any stains. Then apply a coat of wax or varnish and let dry. This will give the surface a new shine.

How do you update your countertops?

You can resurface the countertop with a chemical solution or a heat gun. The chemical solution method involves thoroughly cleaning the countertop with soap and water.

Allow surfaces to dry completely. Mix 1 part ammonia with 3 parts vinegar. Pour the mixture into a bucket and add enough water to cover the entire surface. Wipe the countertop with a cloth soaked in the solution. Rinse the countertop with warm water and let it air dry.

If you want to avoid chemicals, use a heat gun to refresh the surface of your countertop. Preheat your propane torch or hair dryer to high heat. Place the hot tool about 2 inches above the surface and move it slowly. Repeat this process until the entire surface is covered.

How to fix a cracked marble countertop?

A cracked marble top can be easily repaired. First, remove all loose parts from the countertop. Clean the surface with a soft brush. Apply a thin layer of shellac to fill in cracks. Let the shellac dry for 24 hours. After that, polish the surface with a polishing wheel.

Clean the chip and surrounding area with acetone applied with a cloth or sponge.

Squeeze a small amount of putty or laminate paste suitable for your Formica worktop onto the edge of a stainless steel trowel.

Apply a spatula to the chipped surface and completely fill the chips.

How do I repair a Formica worktop?

Formica or plastic laminate are common choices for countertops.

Wipe the opening and surrounding area with a dry washcloth.
Apply Laminate Repair Paste, also known as Laminate Putty, to the hole you want to fill.
Spread the putty with a spatula over the damaged area.

How do I repair a tear in a laminate worktop?

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Repairing damaged laminate countertops with SeamFil – YouTube

Youtube

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Is it possible to remake a laminate countertop?

Refinishing Laminate Countertops (Instructions) Start by sanding the entire countertop and back/edge area to slightly roughen the surface and keep the color consistent. Then wipe off any residue and clean the surface with mild soap and water. Then it’s time to draw.

How to glue a laminate worktop?

Contact adhesive is the best adhesive for gluing laminate flooring because it only sticks to itself. So apply cement to the existing countertop and the back of the laminate. Let the cement dry a little. The cement itself is not sticky, but immediately bonds with other contact cement.

How do I repair the edges of a laminate worktop?

How to re-glue the edges of plastic laminate:

Carefully remove the edge of the laminate from the countertop without breaking it.
Apply a thin coat of contact adhesive to both the edge of the laminate and the countertop.
Use a pencil or water ice to keep the two surfaces from touching for 15 to 30 minutes while the cement dries.

How do I repair an uneven work surface?

All you have to do is lower the table top slightly in the direction you need to level it.

Level. Place a spirit level on the counter and dive in to determine the direction and degree of the angle.
Poles and rails.
Water flows.
Pick it up.
Rear.
Repair leak.

Can you re-edit Formica worksheets?

To paint Formica countertops, use a strong, durable paint such as laminate paint, interior acrylic paint, or a water-based two-component epoxy paint. Once you have your paint, apply 2 coats of primer to help the paint adhere better to the countertop. Let the primer dry after each coat.

How to update counters?

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9:25 am

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Metallic epoxy | Silver and Charcoal

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How to repair a crack in a marble countertop?

Method 5 – Epoxy

If the marble is broken or chipped, carefully remove the chip or splinters. Thoroughly clean the area with acetone and a clean cloth. Apply a thin layer of epoxy and carefully attach the chip or damaged part. Wipe off excess epoxy.

How do I fix a broken countertop?

Remove old sealant from joints around sinks and faucets. Repair chips and large cracks (greater than 1/8″ wide) with a two part epoxy putty. Let the putty dry completely and then sand thoroughly. Apply painter’s tape to anything you don’t want to paint, including the sink, faucet, and backsplash.

How to seal the edges of a laminate worktop?

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Formica LifeSeal Tabletops: Sealing Edges – YouTube

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Flickr Feature Photo https://www. flickr/sphotor.com editor/7558657392

How to lay tiles on a wooden countertop

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Various types of tiles are used to make worktops. All of them differ in their technical and operational characteristics, but have one common property – high mechanical strength. Countertops can be made from ceramic, porcelain stoneware and natural stone tiles. Not only kitchen countertops are covered with such materials, there are options for manufacturing elements of coffee tables and dining tables.

Tile worktop

General tips for tiling worktops

The execution of works must be approached very carefully. It must be said right away that the use of tiles as a finishing coating for countertops is not the best solution and has many risks, which we will discuss in this article a little lower. If for flooring such errors go unnoticed, then countertops react extremely negatively to them. What is the best tile to use?

Table. Types of tiles for finishing worktops

Tile material	Brief description of technical parameters and performance characteristics
Ceramic tiles	The cheapest and most common option in budget versions. In terms of mechanical resistance of the surface to various kinds of damage, it occupies a leading position and is far ahead of the properties of artificial and natural stone. The tile is covered with glaze, and this is glass, a very hard material. Ceramics has an unlimited choice of design solutions and linear dimensions. The disadvantage is the great fragility. Ceramic tiles are completely non-plastic; when exposed to critical forces, they do not bend, but immediately crack.
Porcelain tiles	In all respects, it occupies an intermediate position between ceramics and natural stone. The tile has a different thickness and surface area, the appearance most often imitates natural stone. The cost is cheaper than natural stone tiles, but much more expensive than ceramic tiles. It is made using synthetic resins – this is a significant drawback. Professionals strongly do not recommend using it for kitchen countertops. The lining has direct contact with food products, including hot ones. In such conditions, porcelain stoneware releases harmful chemical compounds that get into food.
Natural stone tiles	The most expensive option, used only in exclusive interiors. Stone tiles are thick and are more often used as countertops without various bases. Such kitchens are very prestigious, testify to the high social status of the owners. As for operational characteristics, natural stone in all respects is significantly inferior to the two described above. Its surfaces are easily scratched, the stone reacts with many chemical compounds, cracks under the influence of medium-sized dynamic forces.

Choice of tiles for countertops

We have summarized the physical characteristics of the tiles, but there are also very strict requirements for the bases of the countertops.

Prices for tiles

~~Ceramic kitchen tiles~~

Which substrates can be tiled

The requirements for substrates are mainly influenced by the physical features of the tiles and the adhesives used to install them. What do customers need to know about which countertops are best to tile?

Mechanical strength. All tile coverings do not have plasticity, they cannot bend and return to their original state again. This means that the base should not be deformed, the best option is concrete coatings. For countertops, such materials are used extremely rarely, the best substitute that can occasionally be found is cement-bonded particle boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm. But they must have many points of support, such a condition is very difficult to fulfill in the manufacture of furniture. It is not recommended to tile countertops made of gypsum board, which is very fashionable today; in extreme cases, you can use thin tiles or mosaics.
DSP – the best base for tiles
Moisture resistant.
The surface should not change linear dimensions with increasing relative humidity values. This requirement must also be strictly followed. The fact is that an increase in the size of the base causes the tiles to peel off, even very expensive two-component composite adhesives do not help. Conclusion: you can not lay tiles on wooden countertops or chipboard, it is also not recommended to use plain plywood for the base. It is allowed to use for these purposes OSB or waterproof plywood, additionally treated with protective compounds.

OSB base requires primer treatment
Workability of the material. Worktop surfaces must have the same adhesion to adhesives as tiles. We have already mentioned that when laying tiles, cement-based materials are most often used. They don’t stick well to wood surfaces.
The substrate must adhere well to the tile adhesive

Steps for laying tiles on a worktop

After making the final decision and choosing a specific material, you can begin to realize your desires. All work is conditionally divided into several stages, the implementation of each of them is considered an important condition for the proper quality of work.

Worktop analysis. It must be durable, withstand large multidirectional loads, and not react to moisture. If your countertop does not meet these requirements, you will have to take special measures. Strengthen furniture with additional spacers and supports, coat surfaces with moisture-proof compounds, etc. Choose impregnations that have good adhesion with adhesives for laying tiles.
Need to make sure that the countertop can withstand the additional load
Calculate the range and quantity of materials needed. Keep in mind that countertops have complex geometric shapes, and this has a direct impact on the amount of non-productive waste, buy tiles with a margin. At the same time, select the optimal glue for it.
Tiles must be bought in excess
Prepare tools and fixtures. To work with tiles, a cutter is required, depending on the type of material, it can be ordinary or stationary with water cooling. Curvilinear cuts are made with a grinder with a diamond disc, the glue is applied with a comb and spatula. It is desirable to stir the mass with a mixer, due to this, the presence of dry lumps in the solution is excluded. You will need a level and measuring tools.
When working with tiles, you will definitely need a tile cutter. Be sure to clean the room before you start laying, consider the placement of materials.

Beforehand, you need to think over the layout of the tiles on the countertop

When you have everything ready, you can start laying the tiles on the countertop.

Step-by-step work instructions

Consider a very original version of the kitchen – the lower cabinets are made of facing bricks. This is a very solid construction, but such kitchens can only be installed in private homes. Brick walls made it possible to make an optimal base for the countertop – a reinforced concrete slab 2 cm thick. The slab was poured by the master on his own, 14 days passed before laying the ceramic tiles. This time is quite enough for the concrete to gain more than 50% of its maximum strength.

The whole structure is made of bricks, the top is made of concrete

Step 1 . Clean the surface of the plate from dust and sand and coat at least twice with a deep penetration impregnation. Impregnation performs several tasks.

Significantly slows down the absorption of moisture from the adhesive, and water is essential for the mortar to gain strength. The fact is that only with its help chemical reactions take place, leading to the hardening of cement. Without moisture, it simply dries up and turns into powder again. Due to the fact that the thickness of the adhesive is only about 5 mm, efforts must be made to ensure a favorable course of the curing reaction.
Increases adhesion efficiency. During the manufacture of a concrete slab, technologies could be slightly violated, as a result, the upper thin film does not have sufficient strength and can peel off from the structure along with the tile adhesive. Impregnation does not allow the negative process to manifest itself.

The base surface is treated with a primer

Laying tiles is possible only after the impregnation has completely dried.

Keep in mind that tiles must be glued onto the countertop in such a way that the surface is completely flat and without seams. This is the most difficult method, only very experienced craftsmen can work. If you lay tiles with crosses, then due to a slight change in the size of the gap, inaccuracies can be compensated. The seamless method does not allow for such an adjustment, everything must be done at once with perfect accuracy, corrections are impossible.

Important. Buy tiles without a chamfer around the perimeter of the front surface. The chamfer forms grooves, and the countertop should have the most even surface.

For such work, only very high quality tiles with perfectly even edges and planes can be used. A lot of domestic and Chinese manufacturers cannot produce goods of good quality, it is recommended to purchase tiles from well-known world brands. In the store, carefully check the evenness of the surfaces yourself, apply two tiles to each other with planes and ribs. If you see the slightest gaps or fluctuations, then this product is unsuitable for facing the countertop.

Tiles should be of good quality and not chamfered

Tiles used for laying at an angle must be specially prepared – chamfered on the inside and leaving only a small strip of initial thickness.

Step 2 . Prepare the glue. We advise you to use Ceresit, in all respects this is an excellent mixture, the cost is affordable for the vast majority of consumers. Before cooking, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions and strictly follow his recommendations. Always pour water into the container first, and only then add the dry mix.

Prepare the adhesive mixture

Step 3 . Measure the desired size of the tile and cut off the excess. In our case, a durable tile of increased thickness is used for the countertop. It is very difficult to cut it with an ordinary diamond cutter, it is recommended to use a stationary machine with a diamond blade and water cooling. Make the first cut to a depth of one millimeter, it should guarantee a smooth edge and exclude the appearance of small chips. In the future, increase the depth to 2-3 mm, perform several passes until the tile is completely cut. This technology slightly increases the preparation time, but completely eliminates spoilage. Do not rush, laying tiles is a rather lengthy process, it does not tolerate hack work.

Cut tiles to size

Step 4 . Remove one edge of the tile from the chamfer on the reverse side. It is required for a tighter fit of two pieces, the angle of inclination should be 45 ° or more. Less is not allowed, the planes will abut and will not allow the tiles to be tightly connected. Work with a grinder with a diamond disc, make sure that the line is as even as possible, and the width of the thin edge is the same along the entire length and on all workpieces.

Using a grinder, make a chamfer on the corner pieces

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

~~Angle grinders (grinders)~~

Step 5 . Cut out the tile for the sink hole. This is done in several stages.

Lay the material on the worktop around the perimeter of the hole. Make sure the tiles are in place. You should not worry too much, the diameter of the outer edge of the sink is about 1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the hole, the edges will hide all the irregularities.
Tiles are laid over hole
Draw a circle on the back with a pencil or marker. It is better to use a felt-tip pen, its line is better visible during cutting, it is not so often covered with dust.
On the reverse side, mark the cut line.
Very carefully cut the contour of the hole with a grinder. Take your time, ceramic tiles crack easily.
The grinder cuts the tiles according to the markings

Important. To cut tiles, use only a special diamond wheel, it does not have radial slots. With cutouts, they are used to cut concrete, they remove a large amount of dust, but at the same time they hit the cut edge with considerable force. Tiles from such loads at best give small chips, and at worst completely crack.

Step 6 . After all the details of the coating have been dry prepared, you can start laying them on cement glue. The technology is no different from the usual, only everything must be done with double accuracy and attentiveness. To increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the concrete slab, it is recommended to use a comb at least twice in one place, the location of the grooves and tubercles changes, the mortar is pressed deeper into the base. When preparing the surface of the countertop, try not to change the angle of the comb, the thickness of the adhesive depends on it. Lay the tiles in turn, level the surface of each with light taps, make a final check of the position with a level.

Apply adhesive and begin laying tiles

Tile adhesive prices

~~Tile adhesive~~

Step 7 . Start tiling the end of the countertop. So that it does not fall down under its own weight, make staples out of thick wire and fasten an even rail at the bottom with them. It is required to stop the vertical tiles during the setting of the adhesive. After the composition has hardened, it is necessary to seal the corner seams with a rubber spatula.

Emphasis is placed on the level and wire and end elements are glued

Finishing the ends of the tabletop

The surface of the tabletop must be perfectly flat, if there are gaps, this indicates a lack of skill of the master. It is useless to seal these gaps with grout, they are very small, and a thin layer of grout will fall out after a few days of using the countertop. If everything is done correctly, then such a coating will regularly serve for more than a decade.

Video – Tile worktop

A tile worktop has both advantages and disadvantages. Do not rush to make a final decision, carefully analyze the information in the article. Professionals do not consider this countertop option to be optimal, today there are many other technologies that allow you to get excellent results with much less loss of time and money. But not all base materials are suitable for such technologies. On the pages of our site there is a very useful article on this topic, we recommend that you read it.

frame, choice of tiles and adhesives

Arrangement of working space in the kitchen is very important both for the convenience of the hostess who is busy cooking, and from the point of view of a holistic perception of the interior. When the color of the walls and furniture are in harmony with each other, a favorable mood and a desire to use one’s strength to create culinary masterpieces are created.

The most important element of the kitchen, along with the stove, is the work table – a comfortable and functional surface of which must withstand daily mechanical and thermal loads, exposure to moisture and grease, and aggressive environments. At the same time, it should be easy to wash and not be afraid of cleaning and disinfecting agents. For this, as well as possible, ceramic tiles are suitable. Manufacturers of kitchen furniture rarely, on their own initiative, make tile countertops lined with artificial stone or tiles. In production, this is not technologically advanced. But with your own hands, a tile countertop is made without difficulty.

What this article is about

Materials for making countertops

Do-it-yourself tile countertop, lined with ceramic tiles, can be made from the work surface available in the kitchen set, or made independently from moisture-resistant fiberboard (MDF) or plywood. When making a countertop yourself, it is possible to slightly increase its size or give it the necessary shape: for example, make a recess in it for a more convenient location near the kitchen table or perform it on two or more levels – by arranging additional surfaces on which you can place small household appliances or other kitchen utensils.

In case of self-manufacturing of the entire desktop, the ceramic tile worktop is made from furniture fiberboard boards, laminated or industrially painted, choosing a color depending on the interior of the kitchen. The degree of moisture resistance of the material used is very important, since in the kitchen there is usually high humidity, especially during cooking, and it is also possible for water or other liquids to spill onto the countertop. If you use chipboard that is unstable to moisture, it will begin to delaminate and insects can settle in it or mold can develop.

Pedestal for countertop

Before making a tile countertop, carefully measure the dimensions and select the appropriate tile size (format) so as not to cut the pieces.

The easiest way is to use an already made pedestal frame – from the kitchen set.

If the pedestal is made outside the kitchen set, the best option is furniture painted chipboard panels. They are cut to size with a circular saw. A hand saw and a jigsaw do not provide a smooth edge and can be used as an alternative.

The edges of the sawn chipboard are treated with a moisture-resistant impregnation for wood – for example (Senezh, Belinka, Pinotex, Tikuurila, etc.) after drying – a polymeric tape for the edges is glued or a layer of oil putty is applied. Putty is best applied in 2-3 doses. Do not immediately apply a thick layer

After complete drying – this can take up to 7 days, processed first with coarse and then fine sanding paper stretched over a bar.

Be sure to apply masking tape around the edges of the chipboard before applying the putty.

Sanded ends of fiberboard are painted with oil paint.

Assembly is carried out using furniture fittings:

Metal corners;
Plastic dowels;
Screws.

Wooden or screw metal furniture spikes can be used.

Before assembling the base frame, do not forget to use a Forstner drill d-35 mm to drill holes in which the door spring hinges will be placed.

Doors for the plinth (if provided), it is best to use ready-made. Their choice is very large in furniture and construction stores.

Preparing the worktop for pasting

The main problem of chipboard and other wood-based materials is high hygroscopicity – susceptibility to moisture. Therefore, before gluing ceramic tiles to the outer surface, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of the countertop with water-repellent impregnations.

You can use the ones already mentioned, you can go down the path of cheaper prices and use drying oil of the Oksol brand. Before applying to the surface of the countertop, the drying oil should be heated to a temperature of 90-95°C in a water bath.

Best applied with a wide natural hair brush.

Drying oil is applied twice, with an interval of 12-24 hours.

After the impregnation or drying oil has dried, which can be determined by touch: the surface should not be sticky. You can start laying ceramic tiles.

Which adhesive to use

Standard cement based tile adhesive is not recommended. Cement mortar has poor adhesion to wood. It is better to use acrylic or epoxy adhesive.

It is more ductile and does not crack on impact. Does not flake when the wood gets wet, easy to apply and dries quickly. Holds ceramic countertop tiles well.

A very good option is to use liquid nails glue in syringe tubes that are squeezed out with a special gun.

The adhesive layer must not exceed 2-3 mm. A thicker layer dries longer and does not increase the strength of the bond between the ceramic and the worktop. In addition, if you lay the tiles on a thick layer of glue (mortar), you will have to use a level to give a strictly horizontal position. Otherwise, moisture may accumulate in the recesses, and the tile may burst under mechanical load.

The adhesive must be leveled with a comb trowel over the entire surface. It is impossible to glue the tiles by applying glue in stripes or dots.

Laying ceramic tiles

The laying process is simple given the small surface area of the worktop. The laying of tiles always starts from the front side and goes to the wall (back edge of the countertop). The first row, laid along a plank nailed to the end of the tabletop or along a long building level (rule), will be a guide for subsequent rows.

Subsequent rows are laid end to end with the ends of the first row.

Masonry crosses can be used, but not recommended. They give a wide seam between the tiles. Even the darkest grout from grease, moisture and vegetable juices will quickly darken, soak and acquire an untidy dirty shade and lose its color.

Therefore, when making a do-it-yourself tile worktop, you should strive to make the joints as narrow as possible.

In the process of tiling with ceramic tiles, horizontality must be checked with a spirit level. Construction debris can get between the tile and the countertop and the tile will not lay flat. This is usually very noticeable on the finished product.

If the whole tile does not fit on the surface, it is cut with a manual or electric tile cutter.

Manual is better. It does not give a lot of dust when working.

Finishing the edge of the worktop

After laying the tiles, the edge on the front side must be finished. To do this, you can use a wooden rail painted with oil paint or (preferred option) aluminum furniture profile. The upper edge of the lath (profile) should be 2-3 mm higher than the surface of the tile. This is to prevent chipping of the edges of ceramics during operation and the flow of spilled liquid onto the floor.

Grouting tile joints

The final process of making ceramic tile countertops with your own hands is grouting. A standard grout is used, for example: Prospector, Ceresit, Ultracolor Plus. Which is selected either close to the color of the tile – then the seams are less noticeable, or contrasting.

Never use light-coloured countertop grout!

It will get dirty after 2-3 weeks even with the most thorough care, since the porous surface absorbs fats, vegetable (fruit) and meat juices very well.

Apply the grout with a rubber spatula or a finger; be sure to press the grout tightly into the joints without leaving gaps and air bubbles.

Immediately after grouting, wipe the surface with a damp sponge or cloth; dried grout is difficult to remove from the surface of the tile.

Ceramic tile worktops can be used 12-24 hours after the grout has dried.

Tiled worktops – already quite rare, outdated option for arranging work surfaces in the kitchen, those who do not cook a lot in the kitchen may be interested only for design purposes.

Ceramic is not resistant to mechanical stress (brittle). Meat cannot be beaten on such countertops.

Seams quickly clog and pathogens settle in them.

Glossy ceramic surface is slippery. It doesn’t hold cutting boards well. Kitchen knives quickly become dull on the surface of the tile.

How to put wood molding on granite tile worktop | Home Guides

Beautiful, durable and less expensive than granite slabs, granite tile countertops are a great alternative for kitchens and bathrooms. Because the tiles are 3/8″ thick, the counters require a finished edge in addition to the tiles on the surface. There are many different materials that make an attractive granite tile counter edge, including wood molding. In this case, wood is especially well suited, because the top of the cornice effectively covers the raw edge of the front row of tiles, as well as the base.

Stain or paint the wood molding ahead of time to match the color of the porcelain stoneware or kitchen cabinetry.

Measure the open edge of the counter. Measure the angles of all corners of the opposite edge with a protractor.

Cut the profile to the length of each counter section using a miter saw. Test the molding on the edge of the counter. The top of the stucco should be flush with the top of the counter so that the stucco covers the unfinished edge of the granite. Install both mating pieces into the inside and outside corners of the countertop.

Drill pilot holes in molding for finishing nails. Hardwood is best used for strength, and nailing without pilot holes is difficult.

Set the molding aside and squeeze a thin bead of silicone adhesive onto the edge of one section of the post. Silicone sets very quickly; do not glue the entire edge at once. Cover only as much as you can apply the molding within one minute.

Align the molding with the top of the pillar and press it firmly against the edge of the pillar. Silicone glue is very sticky; it will hold the molding in place with little pressure.

Drive finishing nails through the molding every 6 inches to secure it in place. Drive the nail heads just below the surface of the wood using a set of nails and a hammer.

Cover the nail heads with a small amount of wood filler to be painted. Once the putty is dry, sand it down with fine sandpaper and touch up with a little paint or stain to match the rest of the stucco.

How to tile Formica backsplash | Home Guides

With their flat finish projecting upwards from the countertop, Formica backsplashes don’t really add much detail or design to the kitchen. Formica is a plastic laminate often used on kitchen counters. In some kitchens, it also extends on the back right up to the cabinets. Because the adhesive is so strong, often removing the Formica from the backsplash causes serious damage to the wall behind. So the best way to change the look of this area is to tile directly above it.

Wash Formica apron with degreaser cleaner and cleaning brush. Make sure the surface of the apron is completely clean and free of grease or food debris. Dry the Formica thoroughly with a soft cloth.

Sand the Formica with an orbital sander and coarse sandpaper. Roughen the surface of the apron until the plastic is smoother and slightly textured or grainy. Remove any remaining dust with a damp cloth.

Measure the area of the apron and mark a spot on the floor nearby of the same shape and size. Lay the backsplash tile on the floor here to determine the correct pattern and tile placement. Start each backsplash wall at the bottom center and spread the tiles evenly on each side. Use tile spacers if necessary to keep straight lines.

Cut the tiles around the edges of the backsplash and go around the outlet holes on a wet tile saw. Double check their alignment with other tiles on the floor before installation.

Apply a small amount of thin mortar to Formica at the bottom center of the apron. Use a spatula to apply the thinner; As soon as it is on the wall, comb it with cuts until the mortar is an even depth.

Press the tiles into the mortar in the same pattern as you determined on the floor. Set the tiles into the mortar at a slight angle and gently rotate them into place to get a good coverage of the mortar.

Place a block on top of the tile and tap it with a rubber mallet to drive the tiles evenly into the mortar. Let the solution dry for 24 hours.

Grout the backsplash by spreading the grout between the tiles with the grout. Hold the float at a 45 degree angle to the apron to apply the solution in place. Rotate the grater 90 degrees to scrape excess grout off the surface of the tile.

Let the mortar dry for 10 minutes, then wash the tile surface to remove excess. Dampen the grout sponge and apply in a circular motion over the backsplash, rinsing frequently until the tile is clean. Let the solution dry for 24 hours.

.Tile countertops

are back – know your options

Different regions of the world have different standards and popular kitchen countertop options. So what is basic and standard for some of us may be perceived as unusual or outdated for others. However, everyone agrees that some options are in the top five anywhere in the world. Countertop tiles are on this list, representing one of the most popular choices.

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Tile countertops throughout history

There was a time when tile countertops were all the rage. kitchens and bathrooms. After that, there was a period when everyone seemed to forget about tiled countertops.

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But that period has recently ended and tile counters are back in fashion. They have begun to adapt to complement modern and contemporary interior design, and although some things have changed, the basic idea has remained the same. {found in regular and life time photo}.

Pros and cons of tiled countertops

Like anything else, there are good things and bad things about tiled countertops. Let’s start with Pro . First of all, tiles come in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and sizes, and this makes these countertops highly customizable.

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When it comes to color, there are many options and how to use them. Neutral elements allow the countertop to blend in, but if you want it to stand out, choose a bright color. You can also use color to match the counter with other elements in the kitchen such as an accent wall, cabinet, etc., or use different colors to define different functions. For example, one part of the counter could be a food preparation area and could have a certain color, while the rest could be a breakfast area with a different color.

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Another big plus is the fact that the tiles are heat resistant, which means you can place hot pans and pans on top of them without fear of them getting damaged. Tile countertops are also scratch and stain resistant. . {Found in echelons of custom homes).

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The tile is economical and relatively easy to install. You can even turn this into a DIY project and install your own tile countertop. You just need to know the basics and from there you can get creative. {Found on jacksondesignandremodeling}.

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One of the biggest benefits is that if one or more tiles are cracked, chipped or otherwise damaged, you can replace them without having to purchase a new countertop.

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Now let’s also look at some of the cons of . The big disadvantage is the fact that the tiles do not create a smooth and even surface. This can be a big disadvantage when you’re trying to roll out a pie or spread a cutting board on a table.

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Also, as strong and durable as they are, tiles have their limits and can sometimes crack or even be damaged by extreme heat. Cleaning can also damage the glossy finish, which can ruin the look of your kitchen countertop.{found on cgnd}.

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Grouting is a big problem for us. An unsealed solution can be easily soiled or damaged by moisture, not to mention that it also contains bacteria. The grout is also a bit difficult to clean. Your best option is to grout and get a shade slightly darker than the tile.

Facts and tips on care

Basically, a tiled worktop is fairly easy to keep clean. You just have to clean it regularly like you would with any other type of counter. However, you have to be special when dealing with grout between tiles. Ideally, the lines should be as thin as possible.

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Make sure the grout is sealed, and generally don’t let it soak up stains, as cleanup becomes very difficult, if not impossible, after that. Also, try not to let the solution soak up moisture, as it can trap bacteria. {Located on the rear beam}.

Concrete Edges – Concrete Network

Swipe to view slides

Concrete counter with fancy edges from Stone Passion.
Turned edge residential bar top from Custom Crete Werks LLC.
Rope edge detail of a concrete table top from The Green Scene.
Surfacing Solutions concrete edge.
Detail of the bullnose of a concrete countertop from The Green Scene.
Straight Edge Concrete Countertop from SureCrete Design Products.
Concrete top with thicker edges from Solid Concrete Tops.

Adding edges is an easy way to personalize a concrete countertop and give your kitchen, bathroom or countertop a finished, high-end look. Edge details are created using special edge shapes when the tabletop is cast. Usually molds or molds are clamped onto the cabinet when pouring cast countertops. Many companies offer ready-made edge shapes with various patterns. The two most popular options are the bulbous nose and the live edge.

Concrete worktop edges come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Since concrete can take on the shape of almost any shape or shape it is cast into, it can be given the appearance of stone, rope edges, vines, and more. Here are some resources for molds and countertop molds.

Contractors can also make their own edge molds, creating any design their customer desires. This can be done by purchasing molded products such as liquid rubber or liquid plastic and custom moldings. There are also companies that will create custom molds and molds for contractors.

Edge shapes add custom detail to concrete countertops

Concrete can give your countertop a traditional look with old world edge details like this thick, ornate ledge edge.

Part of the uniqueness of concrete is the variety of edge shapes available. Choose one that will complement the style of your room, such as this rock look.

Shapes attached to the edge of the table top frame can be smooth, rough or patterned like this piece of rope. For this, a molding of a wooden rope was created.

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Find out more about concrete worktop molds.

Rubber Edge Molds

The use of rubber edge molds allows concrete countertop manufacturers to create shapes that granite, tile, Corian or Formica countertops cannot. These molds are usually used in combination with wooden or melamine supports to provide the base and structure for the mold.

Here are some rubber edge profiles:

Concrete Solutions Concrete Solutions Oaklear Edge Concrete Mortar Scoop Edge

Concrete Countertop Molds and Molds

Plastic Molds

Plastic molds are commonly used to make cast-in-place concrete countertops. That is, the countertop is cast on the spot. For example, contractors will take molds and concrete mix for countertops to a person’s kitchen and cast the countertops in their final position on top of the cabinets.

Pictured left: plastic molds for concrete countertops from Concrete Countertop Solutions.

induction cookers pros and cons

A range of edge profiles available with plastic molds:

what can be done with egg noodles

Foam Molds

Concrete countertop installers use foams for several reasons:

They mold faster from wood or melamine because fabricators don’t need to use saws, routers, or power tools to shape the concrete countertop.
These molds also allow you to create unique designs and edge shapes that are not available with granite, tile or engineered stone countertops.

Surecrete Design Xtreme Series Molding System. Foam profile from Renew-Crete Systems.

Watch these videos on how foam molds are used:

Foams for making concrete counters
Time: 03:33

Construction sinks for concrete countertops
Time: 05:25

The royal baby was named

Molding with melamine and wood

Molding concrete worktops with melamine or wood can be cheaper, but takes more time. After the template is made, each edge must be cut with a table or circular saw. After each piece has been cut, it will need to be twisted into the desired shape.

Melamine concrete pouring from CHENG Concrete. Melamine and wax mold from the Concrete Countertop Institute. 100% silicone sealant in melamine countertop form from CHENG Concrete.

The use of melamine or wood molds requires more detailed work after the initial molding process (cutting and gluing pieces together). The inner edges must be filled with some material to prevent moisture from escaping from the mold and also to create an edge profile. Typically, concrete contractors use wax or 100% silicone sealant around the edges.

Using silicone sealant to form concrete countertops
Time: 02:58
Using 100% silicone sealant to form concrete countertops

Using melamine for the manufacture of concrete racks
Time: 01:39
Using melamine for the manufacture of concrete racks

Forms for concrete countertops to order

Forms and rubber for forms
Time: 03:45

BETOTON Concrete countertop molds come in hundreds of standard shapes and sizes. However, if you are looking for a unique pattern or style, many concrete contractors can cast a custom mold with edges.

How to paint wooden blanks for the New Year

Spot painting of New Year’s pendants. What could be nicer and more valuable than a gift that is made with your own hands? After all, a soul is invested in it, good thoughts and warmth giving! And to receive a New Year’s gift made by one’s own hands is doubly pleasant, since the New Year is a kind and magical holiday! One of such wonderful gifts can be a set of New Year’s pendants painted using the dot painting technique.

Everyone can master this wonderful technique, for this it is not at all necessary to have special artistic skills, the main thing is patience and perseverance, and, of course, your desire!

For spot painting of New Year’s pendants we need:

1. Wooden blanks for New Year’s pendants;

2. Sandpaper;

3. Acrylic paint “Decolor” of the following colors: Red metallic, Blue metallic, Pure gold;

4. Acrylic outlines in the following colors: Metallic Blue, Pearl Blue, Cyan, Red, Metallic Yellow, Gold, White;

5. Acrylic varnish glossy;

6. Brush for applying varnish;

7. Brush or sponge for applying paint.

So, let’s begin!

Step 1. Preparing blanks for painting

We grind the blanks if necessary. Then we cover with acrylic paint in three layers. Red was chosen for the mitten, blue for the Christmas tree, pure gold for the ball. After applying each layer of paint, the workpiece is thoroughly dried and, if necessary, polished again. Then we apply the third, final coat of paint.

Step 2. Painting with acrylic outlines of the ball blank

After the blanks have dried and are ready for painting, we outline our drawing. We start with a ball. We take the workpiece and, using a ruler and a pencil, divide the workpiece into eight equal parts, as shown in the photo. After applying the drawing with an acrylic contour, the traces of the pencil will no longer be noticeable.

On the lines marked with a pencil, we put dots with a white outline. We try to observe the same minimum interval between points, so the drawing will look neater. The dots must not merge.

Next, draw lines of white dots in rows of red dots. We try to strictly adhere to the previous row. Thus, it will be easier to achieve smooth lines and more accurate painting.

Then, in each triangular window formed, draw semicircles that connect to each other, as shown in the photo. To do this, use a white outline.

Inside each semicircle we put large blue dots.

On the outer side of the semicircles we pass a number of yellow metallic dots.

Next, in each triangular window, draw a wavy white line, narrowing towards the center of the ball.

The remaining free space inside the windows is filled with blue and red dots in a chaotic manner.

The rectangular base of the ball is filled with a number of yellow metallic dots. When the ball dries well, cover it with one or two layers of acrylic varnish. Acrylic itself is very strong and durable. A drawing applied with acrylic contours on a wooden surface will hold very firmly and without the use of varnish, in this case the varnish is needed rather to give our decoration a more complete look.

As a final touch, we use a blue satin ribbon, thanks to which the balloon can be hung. Our ball is ready.

Step 3. Go to the blank in the form of a Christmas tree.

We start painting from the bottom of the Christmas tree. We make a small curl, as shown in the photo, with a white acrylic contour.

Further, strictly adhering to the previous row, we circle the curl next to the golden dots.

Repeat the previous step with rows of metallic blue and red dots.

Then we put down a row of larger white dots. To create a large dot, we press a little harder on the contour tube, due to which we increase the amount of paint at the tip of the dispenser nozzle. We keep the same distance between the points. The use of dots of different sizes in the painting allows you to achieve greater expressiveness and some delicacy of the picture.

Then, adhering to the previous row of white dots, we put down rows of dots of red, gold and blue colors.

We make a new curl with white dots, as shown in the photo.

With this curl, we perform the same manipulations, only slightly change the sequence of colors. And so we got two multi-colored curls, looking in different directions from each other.

Now, at the top of these elements, we make a new curl, and also circle it in rows from different points, changing the sequence of colors as desired. To the left of our already finished curl, we make another one – smaller and carry out the same actions with it as with the previous ones.

And a little tip: you should definitely have napkins or a paper towel on hand so that you can wipe the contour nose at any time, removing small dust particles and accumulated paint residues. Only with a clean dispenser spout will you get even and neat dots.

Then, at the top of the Christmas tree, draw the last curl of white dots, also circle it in rows of dots of different colors, only this time there will be more rows, since we fill all the remaining space. We do the same with all the unfilled spaces on our Christmas tree.

At the end, we put one large red dot inside each circle of our curls. We wait until the workpiece dries and varnish. Decorate with satin ribbon. The pendant is ready!

Step 4. Go to the blank-mitt

From the right edge of the mitten, we start painting, namely, we put a large white dot and circle it in rows of dots of different colors. The sequence of rows is as follows: blue, yellow metallic, blue metallic, blue and again yellow metallic.

Then we put down another row with a metallic blue outline and draw a border of semicircles with a blue outline along this row.

Inside each semicircle we put a large white dot, and on the outer side of the semicircles we put down dots with yellow metallic.

Next, draw large petals with white dots. If you can’t draw such petals by hand, then you can first make a sketch with a simple pencil.

Sticking to the outer side of the petals, we put down the dots with a blue outline. Then a blue outline.

On the inside of the petals, we frame the yellow metallic dots, and inside each petal we draw a wavy line with a white outline.

The remaining empty space inside the petals is filled with blue dots in a chaotic manner.

Then we move to the left edge of the mitten, where we repeat the same manipulations, as a result, we get, as it were, a mirror image of our drawing.

We fill the empty space of the background with a fairly simple but nice motive, namely: we draw such a kind of comma with a white outline, as shown in the photo. To make it clearer, we make a large dot and, without tearing the contour from the surface, we draw a line, making a curl. We draw such curls over the entire unfilled surface of the workpiece, observing the intervals between the curls. You don’t need to make them too close to each other.

Then we put blue dots between the curls. And metallic yellow dots. When the drawing dries well, apply acrylic varnish. If desired, you can paint the reverse side of the workpiece.

And again, as a final touch, we use a satin ribbon. The mitten is ready!

Here we have such a wonderful, elegant set of New Year’s pendants! Such bright and unusual decorations will surely fill your home with joy and magic, and will also become an amazing gift that carries the warmth of your hands and the best wishes!

Artist: Natalya Kryukova

How to paint a wooden porch | House Manuals

Your front porch is the first thing guests notice when they approach your home. You want it to look fresh and clean. A new coat of paint on your porch is a good way to spruce it up. It not only looks good, but also extends the life of the wood. Wear safety goggles and gloves when painting your porch.

Lead test

Lead is often present in paint used before 1978 years old. If your home is near a freeway, you can also test for lead in vehicle exhaust. Before you start a project, have your existing paint tested to see that it meets the requirements of a certified government examiner. Another option is to send the paint chips off the porch to a lab for testing. Your local county health office can provide you with a list of certified laboratories. Building codes in your municipality may require professional removal if lead is present.

Preparing the porch

Remove all furniture, plants, and other items from the porch. Carefully inspect the surface of the floor, walls, ceiling, and railings for loose screws or nails. If you find any loose, secure them in place by positioning their heads slightly below the surface of the wood. Scrape off the old paint with a paint scraper. If the paint left on the porch looks uneven after you put a coat of paint on it, consider sanding the entire surface. If the old paint is glossy, it needs to be lightly sanded to get the new paint to adhere to it.

Clean the porch well with a wet and dry vacuum cleaner. Remove any debris stuck between wood floorboards. Washing wood surfaces with Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) removes contaminants from the surface. You can find this cleaner in the paint aisle at the hardware store. Mix according to package instructions. After you have cleaned all surfaces of the porch with TSP, rinse them well with a garden hose and let the wood dry completely.

Choose a paint color

Choose a paint color that matches your home’s exterior colors, especially the roof and shutters. Choose a wall color that matches the wall color of the rest of the house. Light colors reflect light and can make the veranda appear cooler. Darker colors absorb sunlight and can be uncomfortable if you walk barefoot on your porch. Paint manufacturers offer latex and oil based exterior porch paint. Both paints are thicker than regular paint. Some brands of porch floor paint contain granules that provide a non-slip surface when the paint dries. Non-slip granules are also available as a separate additive. It is good if adults or young children regularly walk on the porch.

Porch painting

To prevent drips of paint from falling on the new paint, paint the porch from top to bottom. Let’s start with the ceiling and top trim. A brush with a slanted belt works well to get you into hard-to-reach places. Apply the paint with a brush or roller in the direction of the wood grain. Then paint the walls, working from top to bottom. Next, move on to railings, columns or pillars. This will probably be the most tedious part of the task. Finish off the project by painting the floor. Paint the outer edges of the porch. Don’t forget to paint the outer edges of the porch floorboards as well as their open ends. After you paint the outside edges with the brush, paint the rest of the porch with a long-handled paint roller if you like. When you’re done painting, let the paint dry. Because porch paint is thicker, you may only need to apply one coat of paint.

Fence Painting & Painting Guide: Quick Tips

Your fence is an important part of your home. It provides security, privacy and – with proper care – great appeal. Once you’ve invested in a fence, regular maintenance can keep it looking strong and looking good for years to come. By maintaining the finish, you will prevent damage from rot and insects and help slow decay.

When it comes to fences, moisture is the enemy. Proper staining or staining creates a barrier that prevents moisture from damaging the wood. How often to paint or paint a fence depends largely on the weather in your area. In particularly rainy regions, you may need to do this more frequently, while in dry regions, less maintenance may be required. Many experts recommend every 2-3 years, but the best way to determine what you need is to check for beads. On a soiled and sealed fence, if water no longer accumulates on the surface but is absorbed, it may be time for maintenance. Check painted surfaces for cracks, chips, and wear.

There is a debate about whether to paint the fence or stain it. Any of these options will provide protection from weather, insects, and normal wear and tear and extend the life of your fence. While it’s a personal choice, there are a few things to consider:

Ready to breathe new life into your old fence? Check out the gallery below for easy step by step instructions.

How to paint wooden furniture

I know this post has been in preparation for a long time! After I wrote about my free cycle painted furniture, many of you asked for a lesson on how to paint wood furniture and I finally got to it.

Although I am not a professional artist and my coloring pages are not perfect, I hope that reading what I have learned will be helpful to you.

Before I get started, I should probably warn old furniture lovers to leave before this post ends. .

Hm.

Sanding

The first step is, of course, sanding. Don’t be tempted to skip this step… sanding properly will ensure a smooth, chip-free finish.

I use an orbital sander (I use this Bosch), but other small sanders will work too.

I wouldn’t recommend sanding by hand unless you’re very strong/patient. It takes a LOT of sanding to remove old paint and stains and I’d get really tired of sanding if I had to do it by hand.

Tired of sanding even with an orbital sander!

I usually start with 80-grit or 100-grit sandpaper, especially if there is a strong varnish on the part. After removing most of the stain/paint, I switch to 150 grit or higher to get rid of the remaining stain/paint and smooth the surface.

The furniture I received had areas that could not be sanded with an orbital sander. So after I sanded wherever possible with an orbital sander, I sanded the rest by hand.

Depending on the size of the area to be sanded, I sometimes use a sanding block, but more often than not I just use a piece of plain sandpaper as it can be bent and folded to get to hard to reach areas.

On this nightstand, for example, I was able to use an orbital sander on the top, sides, inside, and bottom front, but it was useless for the under top and under the drawer. So I sanded them down with a small piece of sandpaper. I managed to get away from the texture of the wood almost completely here, but this is not always necessary.

As long as you sand enough to remove the gloss, the primer and paint should adhere.

Some of the old pieces of furniture I received had tops made out of what looked like formica (maybe it’s formica? I don’t know.)

When I’m dealing with this kind of thing, I just sand the top until it’s no longer shiny. It won’t look nice and clean, but the primer will hold.

After sanding, it is important to remove all dust, as residual dust will prevent the paint and primer from adhering.

I often use a damp cloth and sometimes use a dry cloth and then vacuum thoroughly.

Primer

And now the fun part! (I hate preparation).

After the product is clean, it must be primed. I prefer to use a spray primer as it usually gives a cleaner and thinner coat than a brush applied primer. I use the Painter’s Touch brand which comes in gray and white.

Obviously gray is best for dark colors and white for light colors.

When priming, apply several very thin coats. In fact, when you apply the first coat, it hardly needs to look like you’ve even primed. Let the primer dry for about 10 minutes (depending on weather conditions) and apply another coat.

Let this coat dry and apply one or two more coats. At this stage, the furniture should be almost completely covered with a thin layer of primer.

However, if a piece of wood is still visible here and there, I don’t worry.

Depending on the type of wood, I sometimes need to sand before applying the last coat of primer (primer can raise the roughness of the wood). If the surface of the furniture doesn’t feel smooth when I run my hand over it, I just run the sander lightly over it using fine grit sandpaper. I wipe it off, apply another coat of primer, and then I’m ready to paint.

This is how my products usually look after priming.

Painting

Ok, let’s paint! Here’s the paint I use:

It’s sold at Home Depot, but I’m guessing other stores sell something similar. This paint is thinner than regular paint, making it easier to get a smooth finish. It comes in different shades, but I like to use semi-gloss.

(UPDATE-9-2012: My last can of this paint was a bit thick. I’m not sure if this was an anomaly or if Painter’s Touch changed its formula. If yours seems as thick as regular paint, it’s too thick. Add a little paint thinner until the consistency is like a runny cream soup.Thin paint will help you achieve a smooth finish.)

A can of this size costs about $8, which is incredibly far away. To give you an idea, the 2 1/4 tins I’ve used so far have covered two dressers, three bedside tables, a chair, a table, and a filing cabinet.

Mix the paint well with a paint stick (these are free in the paint section of most hardware stores). Using a clean brush (I use a regular bristle brush, not a foam brush), apply a very thin first coat.

As with primer, it is important to apply several thin coats. I don’t think I can overestimate this… 5 thin coats is much better than one thick coat. Thin coats look better and will be more durable.

To give you an idea, here’s how sparse and thin my first coat of paint was.

I’ve found that when you’re painting a large flat area (like the top of a chest of drawers), it’s best to use long strokes that cover the entire length of the subject. This will help ensure a smooth surface with an even sheen.

This paint dries very quickly, so unless you’re painting in very wet conditions, by the time you’ve covered all the furniture, the area you first painted should be dry again. If it doesn’t, wait 10 minutes or so and apply another very thin coat. Repeat this process until the furniture is painted the way you like it.

If you’ve sanded wood, you’ve been careful applying thin layers of paint, and your furniture is made from good wood, you can still see the beautiful wood grain through the paint.

You can also see an example of grain in this post (just scroll down) about one of my black chests of drawers.

This is the limit of my painting wisdom… In short, , if you carefully sand, dust well, prime with a few thin coats and paint with a few thin coats, you can get a piece of furniture with a smooth, durable surface.

And if you’re anything like me, once you see how much paint can change, you’ll be hooked and start looking for something else to paint with.

Happy painting!

P.S. This post also appears on BobVila.com as a guest post. Long after I posted this here, Bob Veal’s team asked if they could share the content on Bob’s site, so please don’t worry I stole it from him. My content is on his site, not the other way around!
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If you want to see some more examples of my painted furniture, check out these posts.

Black paint:

Two nightstands from Goodwill

A small table from Freecycle

White paint:

Crystone nightstand from Freecycle

Crystone and chest of drawers from FreecyCle 9000

picture frames. Here’s how I made it with three frames from Goodwill (plus you can see the little bedside table I drew).

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Would you like to learn about cabinet painting? I used a slightly different method as I didn’t want to use spray paint in my house. Here’s how I painted my kitchen cabinets without spraying.

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Step by step painting – Painting on canvas with acrylic paint for the absolute beginner!

This painting website/blog is filled with easy acrylic painting tutorials for beginners designed by Tracey Kiernan!

Each guide has step-by-step pictures, written instructions and videos to help you learn from home for FREE!

Newest and Coming Soon Acrylic Canvas Tutorials:

Links:

Blog Posts:

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Most Popular Lessons From Friends:

Paintings:

While I believe that any of my paintings can be adapted and simplified for all ages and skill levels, these in particular are especially suitable for children! Most of them include trackable objects that can be printed and transferred to canvas.

LEARN MORE!

Digital Downloads:

VIEW OTHER ELECTRONIC LESSONS!

Everyone can draw!

Painting is a wonderful stress-relieving activity that helps you get away from life for a while.