Cost of underpinning per metre: House Underpinning Costs & Quotes for 2022

House Underpinning Costs & Quotes for 2022

Last Updated on September 18, 2022 By Jon

If you’ve noticed signs of subsidence, or have been advised by a surveyor to carry out underpinning then read our guide to saving on costs, discover average prices and get free quotes from local experts.

Average costs to underpin a house

Here you can get an idea of some of the average costs involved from numerous sources:

Method	Average Price Per metre
Mass Concrete	£1,421.00
Beam & Base	£1,911.00
Piling	£2,499.00
Resin Injector	£1,176.00
(Prices taken from multiple sources and averaged) Prices Checked 18/09/2022

House Underpinning Cost Calculator

Wall Length (metres):

Underpinning type:
Mass Concrete (£1,421. 00 metre)Beam & Base (£1,911.00 metre)Piling (£2,499.00 metre)Resin Injector (£1,176.00 metre)

Total Cost: £

(Live prices updated weekly)

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There are times when houses are affected by subsidence, and such situations require immediate measures to be taken to avoid any catastrophic moments. In some instances, however, these are minor things that should be addressed early enough before they escalate.

To help solve the issue of subsidence, then, underpinning should come in handy. Underpinning provides extra support required to strengthen a building. This article will give a comprehensive guide that will address underpinning costs and causes of structural movement.

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Underpinning Costs

Before taking any projects, calculating the costs inclusive of the miscellaneous is usually the first step. This also happens to underpinning, where the costs are calculated including other costs. These other costs are as discussed:

Cause of The Subsidence

The main cause of the subsidence determines the cost of underpinning. Minor causes such as blocked drainage cost less compared to a major fault such as repairing inadequate foundations of the building.

Scaffolding

Before any construction work is done a scaffold should be erected to help the constructor carry out the work effectively and efficcould be anything from a full wrap-around house scaffold system to a mobile tower. Average scaffolding prices can be seen in our other guide.

Building Control Notification

Issuing a notification to the authorities should be done before embarking on the underpinning process. The notification gives the local building control office to assess and charge which varies from locale to locale or the local council in charge.

Party Wall Agreements

In the case of semi-detached or terraced house, neighbours are given a two months notice in accordance to the 1966 Party Wall Act. If they are of a contrary opinion or do not respond, a surveyor should come on the ground to inspect the boundary wall and give a report of the condition of the wall.

If the semi-detached or terraced house is next to another house, the neighbours should also be given a two months notice on the nature of work intended to be done on or close to the shared wall.

Structural Engineer

The structural engineer helps in the general inspection of the structure before the underpinning work commences. They also try pit tests and advice what underpinning method will be the most appropriate.

Building contractor

The building contractor also carries out various inspections and gives a comprehensive of what type of tools and machines will be needed during the process.

Remedial work

This includes any other work that does not entail the underpinning. After the construction, since this is not a new structure being put to place, there can be damages caused in the other areas such as the garden, plumbing work among others. Therefore this will require a specialist for each specific work depending on the damage done.

Cracks

The most common defect that is likely to happen after underpinning is wide cracks on the walls. If the cracks are not repaired they might bring more damage including collapsing of the wall. To avoid this from happening repair the cracks is the way out. Replacing the broken bricks to prevent the entry of water and insects. This work should be done by an expert.

Tree surgeon

If there are trees around the area a tree surgeon will help to navigate the tree without causing much damage to it. In case the tree has to be removed, they will do that as well.

Rendering

For homes that have rendering on the outside, it is very likely to have cracks on the surface. Adding another layer of render helps the surface and also enhances the look of the home.

However, the rendering can be also done by the homeowner as part of their DIY. However, the right procedure should be followed. The procedure includes; exposing all the bricks to check the extent of the damage and then start laying them, one by one.

Repointing

This is having all the old mortar and replacing it with new. This can be done by the homeowner or have the work done by a professional. The average cost of a professional is £40/m2.

Scale Of Subsidence

The extent of the damage will also determine the cost that will be incurred. The subsidence can result in damage to the other areas close to the damage such as windows, doors, decoration, and others.

These areas will also need to be repaired hence other cost has to be incurred. When reinstating foundations while making sure that further subsidence will not be experienced, the total cost tends to increase.

Types of Underpinning

There are various methods used in underpinning. Discussed below are some of the common methods used in underpinning.

Piling

This is only carried out when very deep foundations are needed. The ground is exposed through hammering a steel rod or pipe. The size of the hole depends on the type of soil in the location and the weight of the structure to be supported. Piles are driven at regular intervals and then connected by concrete or steel needles for the best results.

This method is expensive because it requires a professional to carry out the whole process. There is also special equipment which is used to dig to the ground.

The Pilling method when used in underpinning creates a very strong foundation giving a long-lasting solution. It is also suitable for all sizes of land and spaces. In addition, the pilling method is excellent in water-logged areas where other underpinning methods are hard to manoeuvre. Lastly, there are fewer disturbances compared to other methods.

Mass Concrete

This type of underpinning method involves digging holes in the existing foundation. The location of the holes is as directed by the engineers. The holes are then filled with concrete.

The calculations of the engineer should be followed to the latter to ensure the foundations remain as strong as possible. To ensure the strength is acquired, only expose only one area of the foundation, leave it for some time then proceed to the other area.

The pros of this method are that excavators are not needed because excavations are done manually. This reduces the level of damage to other areas while underpinning. There is also no need of vacating from the premises since the work is done in sections.

Buttress

This method is used when strengthening the wall by building against the already existing wall with bricks and the foundation being the poured concrete.

Beam and base

The holes are dug beneath a wall and then filled with concrete. After the filling is done, a load-bearing beam is put on top. The importance is to spread out the weight.

Resin injectors

This method involves mixing chemicals and a special hardener. The concoction is then injected into the existing foundations through small incisions made in the ground. The chemicals then flow into the soil and expand. The surrounding soil is compressed and any spaces and cracks are filled reinforcing the whole structure.

Repeated injections are capable of lifting the structure and achieve the level targeted. The resin components are tailor-made to suit the soil conditions and the performance needed.

This is the most modern method of underpinning. The advantages include; no or less disturbance comparing with other methods. It is also a fast method of underpinning, there are no excavations of land that are required. Vacating to other areas is also not needed in this method.

House Subsidence Signs and Common Issues

Subsidence is a gradual process and familiarizing the signs early enough is a way to prevent being caught off guard. Contacting the right professionals as soon as something goes amiss is also a way of reducing the financial burden. Some of these common signs are:

Cracks on the external and internal walls: Cracks on new plastered walls and ceiling are probably a result of quick-drying hence this should not be a major bother. Large and wide cracks should be inspected as a matter of urgency.

Uneven floors.

Sticking of doors and windows: This is an indicator that the door frames and window frames have changed in shape.

Bending of the house walls.

Rippling of wallpaper in dry situations.

In conclusion

The biggest aftermath of subsidence and other structural movement is collapsing of the building. However, this is unlikely to happen and only happens in cases of earthquakes, flooding, or other natural causes. Therefore it is good to be on the lookout and address any issue as fast as possible.

Calculating all the costs needed for underpinning is key before embarking on the main cause. The correct professionals should also be hired so that you are assured of quality work. Additional costs which are a subsidiary of underpinning such remedial work should also be summed up.

Prior to underpinning, the type of underpinning to be used should be analyzed and make sure it meets all the final results needed.

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Our Price List Updated For 2022

Update 2022: Home improvement and construction firms in the UK are reporting unprecedented price increases due to a number of factors. This has been widely reported in the media and confirmed by our own research. The prices on this page were updated in 2022 but we urge consumers to use a price comparison service such as Bark as they will be able to provide up to date quotes for complex projects such as house underpinning.

In 2022 we got in touch with several underpinning experts from various locations around the UK and asked them how much it costs to underpin a house. The responses varied from the suspiciously affordable to eye-watering expensive and the advice we received was just as inconsistent.

In a hurry?

In the table below, you’ll see the average price for house underpinning, based on the prices we were given by the respondents:

Project:	Price:
Mass concrete pour	£1750 per linear metre
Beam method	£2000 per linear metre
Piling	£2000 – £2500 per linear metre
Get a fixed quote online ->	Get a Custom Price Here

The prices above include VAT and are per linear metre for our property. Your project may require deeper and wider underpinning which would increase the price considerably.

The Three Different Types of Underpinning

Those sourcing prices for house underpinning are likely to be given quotes or estimates for one of three different methods:

Mass Concrete Pour

This is a time-tested, classic method of underpinning and is the most popular option. Holes around one metre wide and to a depth decided by an engineer are dug under the walls, these are shuttered with boarding and concrete is then filled into the void. The underpinning is completed in one-metre sections so the property above is always supported. Mass concrete pour is generally the best option when the foundations don’t need to go too deep, if the ground conditions require a very deep concrete pour, another option should be considered.

Expect to pay around £1750 per linear metre of wall for a standard underpinning project.

The Beam Method

Instead of digging out one-metre sections under the entire length of the wall and filling them with concrete, one could create fewer concrete sections and bridge them with a beam that would support the wall above. This is the Beam Method and is more suited to situations where the foundations need to go deeper.

Expect to pay around £2000 per linear metre of wall.

Piling

Piling is where pipes are driven deep into the ground, often more than five metres, these are then used to support the new foundation which underpins the wall. Piling is usually done in areas where the soil is poor and there’s very little natural support for the weight of the property.

Expect to pay around £2000 – £2500 per linear metre depending in the depth of the pile and the complexity of the project.

Extra Underpinning Costs to Consider

The prices on this page include the materials and labour for house underpinning but they exclude:

Party Wall Agreements

If you live in a semi-detached or terraced home, you’ll need to serve two months’ written notice to your neighbours, you should also inform them of their rights under the Party Wall Act.

If your neighbour consents to the work on your home, you can proceed.

If they don’t consent or fail to respond, you’ll need to start the party wall agreement process, this involves arranging for a surveyor to inspect the boundary wall and draw up a legal document detailing the condition of the wall. This can cost between £500 and £1500 per neighbour but protects the party from malicious claims

Structural Engineer Costs

Exactly how deep and wide the foundations must go should be calculated by a structural engineer. Their prices vary but for a typical house underpinning project, expect to pay a few hundred pounds.

Building Control Notification

You’ll need to notify your local building control office prior to the work commencing, there is a fee for this and it varies from council to council.

Unexpected Work

It’s not unusual for underpinning projects to go over budget and this is almost always due to the soil conditions discovered after the excavation has begun. If the foundations need to go deeper, the project will take longer, may require heavier machinery and more concrete or other materials. Allow for a contingency of 10% and you shouldn’t go too far wrong.

Do You Really Need Underpinning?

Vertical movement is quite normal and is seen in many homes, especially those that are older and were built on shallower foundations, it’s called settling and is quite different to subsidence.

In fact, underpinning can cause more problems if only one wall is underpinned and supported while the rest of the property is left on the existing foundations and continues to settle.

Conservatories are a classic example of how one structure can settle at a different rate to another as they are lighter than the house they are attached to, so they don’t settle as deep or as quickly as the heavier house. This can lead to cracks in the walls where the conservatory meets the main house. This type of movement is perfectly normal and is just a case of both structures settling naturally in the soil, just at a different rate. The same issue can apply to extensions and bay windows.

Many cases of subsidence are in fact settling and nothing to worry about. The question is whether the movement is historical or recent and whether it will continue or has stopped.

Only a structural engineer will be able to advise further.

Examples of When You’ll Need Underpinning

Here are a few examples of when you may need underpinning:

Poor quality construction.
Loft extension (esp on older homes built on shallow foundations).
Basement extensions.
Flooding or damage from burst pipes etc.
Ground heave from tree roots etc.

Subsidence Warning Signs

There are several warning signs of subsidence to look out for:

Doors and windows not fully closing and needing adjustments from time to time.
Cracks and splits in the external or internal wall, although some of these might be historical “settling” and nothing to be concerned about.
Cracks appearing after recent wallpapering or decorating are a telltale sign of movement that might otherwise not be detected.
Neighbouring homes needing remedial work to the foundations.
Walls bowing inwards or outwards.
Uneven floors.
Gaps, often uneven, between the floor covering and the skirting boards.

Underpinning Websites We Think Are Worth a Visit

We are not associated with any of the sites listed below but feel they have some great information and/or photos of underpinning work so you can get an idea of how extensive a project like is and the importance of using a trusted and reliable tradesperson.

This Dail Mail article contains a horror story about a couple losing everything after their home collapsed during underpinning work, even though they carried out due diligence and checked the builder’s history and insurance.

One of the biggest problems in the UK is unqualified tradespeople taking on projects that are outside of their expertise. While Checkatrade, Rated People and The Guild Of Master Craftsmen etc are good places to start your due diligence process, we suggest you also check your tradesperson is a member of a specialist association such as ASUC. (Side note: Which is best Checkatrade or Rated People?)

We also recommend taking out specialist renovation home insurance to protect you during the underpinning work. This can be a reassuring backup insurance policy in addition to the liability insurance your builder should have in place.

Can I Claim the Cost of Underpinning on My Home Insurance?

Most instances of subsidence are covered by home insurance policies although not if the property is new and is still covered by a new building warranty. As all policies are different, check your policy paperwork and the small print.

Get an Underpinning Price Today

We’ve teamed up with Bark who can supply you with quotes for underpinning work from their network of specialists in the UK.

Just tap the button below and fill the form with details of your project:

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Underpinning Cost & Prices 2022

Posted on Published: February 11, 2021 – Last updated: January 5, 2022

Subsidence is when the ground beneath your home collapses or starts to sink, causing problems to the foundation and structural issues. This puts a strain on one side of the property’s structure, which causes cracks to appear.

Changes in the soil cause. This can be the result of natural processes such as weather changes or water changes that causes soil to swell or shrink as well as man-made causes such as historic mine shafts, improper ground preparation or bad foundations themselves.

Regardless of the reason, underpinning is used to support the foundations. This is done by strengthening, repairing on increasing the depth of the foundation so that the footing is on more supportive soil.

This article will cover the costs you can expect to pay to exterminate fleas and other factors that can affect the cost.

Average Underpinning Costs

We worked with a professional quantity surveying to price up underpinning of varying depths. The easiest way to figure out to to the cost is to figure out the depth of underpinning needed.

Underpinning Depth	Cost per m²
0. 9m	£480 / m²
1.5m	£680 / m²
2m	£770 / m²
3m	£860 / m²
4m	£930 / m²

A detailed cost of the items that go into the underpinning is as follows:

Item	Cost per m³ labour + plant	Cost per m³ materials	Cost per m³ total
Excavating; max depth not exceeding 0.25m	£57	£0	£57
Excavating; max depth not exceeding 1m	£62	£0	£62
Excavating; max depth not exceeding 2m	£75	£0	£75
Disposal off site	£25	£21	£46
Filling to excavations using excavated material	£13	£0	£13
Concrete – C20	£57	£115	£172

Item	Cost per m² Labour	Cost per m² Materials	Total Cost per m²
Formwork; not exceeding 1m deep	£6	£26	£32
Formwork; not exceeding 2m deep	£7	£26	£33
Formwork; not exceeding 4m deep	£9	£26	£35

Item	Labour Cost per Tonne	Material Cost per Tonne	Total Cost per Tonne
Rebar	£900	£863	£1763

Item	Labour Cost per m²	Material Cost per m²	Total Cost per m²
One brick thick; brickwork	£49	£59	£108

Factors That Affect the Cost of Underpinning

The Thickness of Wall Structure

For depths under 4m, only one brick thickness is likely needed. After that, you’d need to go to two bricks thick, which will add extra brick cost.

Domestic vs Commercial Project

Because underpinning is specialist work, contractors may charge higher to arrange works on smaller domestic projects.

Location

Areas in the south of England and London will be higher than in other parts of the country. The prices quoted in the table above apply for the South East or Outer London area. The adjustments below can be used to calculate costs in your area.

Region	% Adjustment
South East (Southampton, Oxford, Kent, Outer London)	0
Inner London	+4%
South West (Bristol, Exeter)	-4%
West Midlands (Birmingham)	-10%
East Midlands (Northampton, Nottingham, Leicester)	-10%
East Anglia (Cambridge, Norwich, Ipswich)	-5%
North West (Liverpool, Manchester)	-12%
Yorkshire and Humberside (Leeds, Sheffield)	-11%
North East (Newcastle, Sunderland)	-10%
Scotland (Edinburgh, Glasgow)	-6%
Wales (Cardiff, Swansea)	-9%
Northern Ireland (Belfast)	-12%

Get Prices on Underpinning Near You

We’ve done our best to give you a good idea of what you can expect to pay for underpinning.

However, our guides are not a substitute for a fixed quote specifically for you.

We work with all the best underpinning specialists ready to price your job. Get free, no-obligation quotes in your local area and compare prices using the form below.

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About the Author

Alex Johnson is a qualified quantity surveyor and writer with a passion for conducting original research and uncovering the true cost of jobs. His cost data has been referenced by EDF Energy and the Scottish Government.

Posted on Published: February 11, 2021 – Last updated: January 5, 2022

How Much Does Underpinning a Foundation Cost? 2022 Guide

If you’ve found problems in your home due to subsidence, you’ll need to get it repaired before there’s further damage. Many subsidence problems are covered by your home insurance, but there may be things you have to pay for too.

In this guide, we explain the costs of subsidence repairs and what other costs you may have factor into your budget. We advise you about the different methods of treating subsidence and the advantages and disadvantages of each one.

You can also find out the best way to find and hire a subsidence contractor and what questions you need to ask them.

Finally, we’ll answer some frequently asked questions about subsidence and its repair.

Topics

How Much Does Underpinning a Foundation Cost?

The prices below give you an idea of the costs involved in underpinning.

Type of Underpinning	Cost per m2 or m3
Mass concrete method	£1,500 m3
Beam and base method	£2,000 m2
Mini piled method	£2,500 m2
Expanding resin method	£1,200 m2
Cantilever method	£2,000 m2

Additional Costs	Estimated Cost
Building control application (local council office)	£145-£245
Structural engineer	£60-£120 per hour
Planning permission	£200-£500
Party wall agreement	£400-£700
Tree surgeon	£100-£400
Remedial building work	£100-£200 per day

According to most trade resources, the average price for underpinning a three-bedroom semi-detached house is between £10,000 and £15,000 with a timescale of up to six weeks from planning application to completion.

A single wall of a terraced house will be around £6,000-£8,000 while an average detached house could cost from £20,000-£35,000.

Costs will also be dictated by the type of underpinning that is most suitable for your property.

Due to the complex nature of the work and the many variables involved it is difficult to accurately break down costs.

An easy way to find a subsidence specialist is to use HouseholdQuotes! Fill in the online form. Tell us briefly what you need, and we’ll find subsidence specialists to give you no-obligation quotes fast.

Comparing Quotes Could Save You Up To 40%:

Click To Get Quotes

What Affects the Cost of Underpinning?

Several factors affect the cost of underpinning.

Condition of the Footings

If the footings aren’t in good condition, it may not be possible to repair and reinforce them. Instead, the old footings will be removed, and new footings built in their place.

Method of Underpinning

Some methods are cheaper than others. For example, extended resin is the cheapest method, but this may not be suitable for your property.

The mini piled and cantilever methods are the most expensive, but these are necessary if you have deep foundations.

If Subsidence Has Affected Part of a Wall or Whole Wall

If only part of the wall has been affected, then this should cost less than if the whole wall needs to be repaired.

Level of Cover Your Insurance Policy Provides

If you live in an area that is known for subsidence, then your insurance company may only cover you for certain costs.

Specialist subsidence cover, on the other hand, should make sure you are well-covered.

Whether Your Wall Is a Party Wall

If you share your wall with a neighbour this is called a party wall. You’ll have one if you live in a terraced house or a semi-detached property.

The law states you must give your neighbour 8 weeks written notice about the subsidence work. They must give their permission.

If they don’t give permission, it means you have to instruct a surveyor to draw up a report. Your neighbour is also entitled to instruct a surveyor, but you must pay.

Therefore, if there is any dispute you are looking at costs of around £1,000 or potentially more depending on your location.

Services of a Tree Surgeon

If you are going to cut down or prune a tree in your garden, you will need the services of a tree surgeon. Tree surgeons often work as a team of three, so you will have to pay the hourly rate for all three.

Cost of cutting down a tree and removing the waste range from an average of £350 for a 20ft tree up to £1,250 for a large 70ft tree.

Skip Hire

Underpinning can create a lot of waste so you might want to hire a skip if rubbish removal is not included in the quotation.

Skip hire is between £150 and £200 for a small skip. Larger skips are between £300 and £400.

How Can I Save Money on the Underpinning of the Foundation of My House?

There are a few ways you can save money on underpinning the foundation of your hour house.

If you are able, you could carry out the remedial work yourself. This includes

External rendering
Plastering
Painting
Decorating
Gardening

When the work is finished there may well be cracks to fill, turf to replace and rendering and decorating to carry out. These are jobs you can do yourself if you want to save money.

For example, a painter and decorator will typically charge between £175 and £195 per day.

A plasterer will charge between £20 and £30 in the north of England and between £40 and £50 in London and the south of England.

All these costs will be saved if you’re able to carry out the work yourself.

One of the best ways to save money is to use HouseholdQuotes to help you find the building contractor you need. Fill in the online form (it takes less than a minute!).

Tell us what you need. We’ll find subsistence specialists to give you no-obligation quotes fast.

Comparing Quotes Could Save You Up To 40%:

Click To Get Quotes

How Do I Know My Foundations Need Underpinning?

Some signs that your foundation needs underpinning are:

Bulging walls – Bulging walls can be caused by a failure to tie the wall into the floor or roof structure. They can also be caused by rotting bonded timbers and by a lack of support from the ceiling joists because of the poor condition of the rafters.

Subsidence – When the ground underneath the foundations shrinks this causes the wall above it to drop because it doesn’t have any support. Shrinking soil is caused by leaking drains or by trees sucking up the moisture.

Tree related subsidence – Trees have long roots which spread to look for moisture. They can suck all the moisture out of the soil around your foundations and this causes subsidence.

What’s Involved in Underpinning a Foundation?

We take a look at each different method for underpinning a foundation.

Mass Concrete Method

This is the most common method used to treat subsidence. A builder will dig holes around the existing foundations. Concrete is then poured into certain locations which strengthen the pre-existing footings. Mass concrete is an ideal solution for shallow foundations, it’s not recommended for deep foundations.

Beam and Base Method

The Beam and Base method uses a concrete beam to either replace or strengthen the existing footings. The weight of the building is spread between each concrete beam which will be placed in strategic positions.

Expanding Resin Method

The expanding resin method uses a resin injector to insert a special hardening glue into the ground under the footings. The glue expands and covers any cracks or gaps and compacts any loose soil.

Mini Piled Method

The mini piled method is used when the foundations are deep. Mini piles with steel reinforcement are placed on either side of the foundation wall.

The foundations are either dug down further which gives additional support or more suitable soil is transferred for the foundations.

Mini piling requires specialist machinery and is one of the most intrusive methods of treating subsidence.

Cantilever Beam Method

The cantilever beam method is carried out by constructing a beam supported at one end, with the weight along its length. The support is provided on one side of the wall from the concrete cantilever beam.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Each Method

The table below breaks down the advantages and disadvantages of each underpinning method, so you can have an idea of which method would be best suited to your needs.

Method	Advantages	Disadvantages
Mass concrete	-No heavy machinery used -Cost-effective -Doesn’t remove original foundations -May be able to live in the house while the underpinning is carried out	-Takes time to complete -Only suitable for shallow foundations
Beam and Base	-More advances than mass concrete -Better stability and strength -Replaces or enforces existing beam	-The depth depends on the condition of the ground -More expensive than the mass concrete method
Expanding resin	-Fast and clean -Isn’t disruptive -Cheaper than other options	-Doesn’t offer the same standard of stability as other methods
Mini piled	-Less disruptive than other methods -Can be used when ground conditions are variable -Used for deeper foundations	-Expensive -Requires heavy machinery and skilled labour
Cantilever Beam	Ideal when the subsidence is only on one side -High load capacity -Faster than some other methods -Doesn’t require as much excavation	-Needs plenty of space around the property’s exterior

How Do I Find and Hire a Professional Tradesperson?

Always see if you can get a personal recommendation. Ask family, friends, and colleagues at work if they know of a contractor specialising in subsistence work.

If you can’t find any personal recommendations, then use HouseholdQuotes. There’s a simple form to fill in which takes less than a minute.

You tell us what type of contractor you’re looking for and what you need. We’ll then find contractors in your area to give you no-obligation quotes for the subsidence work.

Comparing Quotes Could Save You Up To 40%:

Click To Get Quotes

Ensuring the Professional Is the Right Fit

Before an appointment with a building contractor, write down the questions you want to ask them.

Make sure when the builder gives you the quotation, it is in writing. A written quotation will lower the risks of any excess costs being added that you didn’t know about.

Have you done a lot of this type of work? If you want someone with plenty of experience this question will help you to make up your mind. This is important if you need to have your underpinning done using a method that requires some skill like the cantilever method.
Have you got customer feedback and photographs of any work you’ve done in the past? The tradesperson may have a portfolio to show you, or they may direct you to their website. Websites often have case studies, photographs, and customer testimonials.
Do you have insurance? Is your public liability insurance up to date? Public liability insurance is vital for all tradespeople. It protects them and you from any injury or damage claims should an accident occur during the work on your building subsidence.
Are you a member of any trade association? It’s not vital that your subsidence contractor is a member of an association, but if they belong to the Association of Specialist Underpinning Contractors (ASUC), this will demonstrate they have a high standard of workmanship. They may have also received training from the association.
Do you include the disposal of soil and any other waste, in your quotation?

As you can see, the cost of underpinning your home isn’t cheap, but it is necessary. If you are covered by insurance, make sure they are going to pay for everything on the contractor’s quotation.

It could be that only certain things are covered or you may decide to carry out other repairs at the same time which you will need to budget for. If you have an excess on your policy, you will need to pay this.

Final Checklist

Use the checklist below to make sure you’ve got everything you need to hire someone for underpinning your foundation:

Contact your insurers and report the problem
Wait for the report from the structural engineer (your insurers might send one)
Decide whether you are going to do any of the remedial work yourself
Set a date for the work to begin
Once the subsidence has been treated you can either do any plastering, rendering, or painting and decorating yourself. Or you can use HouseholdQuotes to find the appropriate tradesperson for each job

Comparing Quotes Could Save You Up To 40%:

Click To Get Quotes

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Claim for Subsidence on My Home Insurance?

In most cases, yes you can claim for subsidence on your home insurance. But if you live in a newly built home that is still under guarantee the builder will be responsible, not your insurance.

One other reason why subsidence won’t be covered on your home insurance is if you have changed the structure of the building or you intend to change the structure.

For example, you want to build an extension and the foundations need underpinning.

Do I Need to Notify Building Control About My Subsidence?

If you are going to get the subsidence repaired, you will need to get building control permission.

There are fees of between £145 and £245 for the application fee, depending on where you live.

Is There Any Way to Prevent Subsidence?

There are steps you can take to reduce the risk of subsidence.

Remove any trees close to your house. If you don’t want to remove them then regularly prune trees and bushes to limit their growth.

Keep a close eye on pipework and gutters to prevent any blockages that could cause leaks. Leaks affect the soil beneath your property.

Can I Still Live In My Home During Underpinning?

Most underpinning methods are evasive and will mean staying elsewhere during the work.

If you use the mass concrete method you should be able to stay in your home while the work is being carried out.

How Long Does It Take From Inspection to the Work Being Done?

Unfortunately, it’s not something that’s done quickly. From the initial inspection to the subsidence repairs you should expect it to take around 3 to 6 weeks.

It may take longer if your insurance company are slow to authorise the jobs to be done.

Is It Legal to Cut Down a Tree in My Garden?

You can’t cut down a tree if you live in a conservation area or if the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). Cutting down a tree may bring other problems like ground heave.

Before cutting a tree down, seek professional advice from a tree specialist. There may be other remedies such as installing root barriers.

Underpinning Cost Guide, Plus Causes of Structural Movement

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Whilst discovering that your home is suffering from subsidence can be unsettling and leave you panicking about how much underpinning costs, it doesn’t always spell disaster. In fact, many subsidence issues can be solved fairly easily.

This guide will not only explain how much underpinning costs, but also what causes the structural movement in the first place.

What Does Structural Movement Mean?

It is a fact that all buildings move. It is also a fact that many older properties were built with shallower foundations meaning they tend to move more than modern buildings in response to factors such as seasonal changes in ground conditions or new loadings — particularly in regions with clay subsoils.

Whilst it is often the irregularities of period properties, such as sloping walls, that often lends them a sense of character and overall charm, they can also point to a potential movement issue (Image credit: Getty Images)

Whilst structural movement might cause the odd door or window to stick in its frame, a little judicious planning could soon put right such minor niggles. So, for homebuyers with a cool head, concerns about structural movement and underpinning costs can sometimes be turned to an advantage by securing a bargain.

Is Underpinning Necessary?

Although much advice might say that the solution to subsidence is underpinning, which involves excavation below the sunken wall and pumping in large volumes of concrete, underpinning costs money and should only be carried out as a last resort.

This is particularly true of older properties because the part that hasn’t been underpinned will continue to naturally move in tune with ground conditions, setting up stresses with the newly rock solid underpinned length of wall.

Underpinning also tends put off future buyers and insurers.

Before you begin to think about underpinning costs, make sure the cause of the subsidence is thoroughly investigated.

What Causes Subsidence?

Some cases of subsidence can occur if the ground under part of the foundations shrinks, robbing the wall of support (commonly caused by leaking drains, or long periods of drought exacerbated by trees extracting moisture). The unsupported part of the wall immediately above can then suddenly drop, with this movement causing cracking.

This is very different from ‘settlement’, where the ground is slowly compressed over time by the loading placed upon it by the building. All buildings settle after construction or in response to major new structural change such as extensions and loft conversions – as the ground adjusts to the new weight imposed upon it.

Interestingly, most insurance claims for alleged subsidence turn out only to be cosmetic damage, and the majority are rejected as invalid because the cause lies elsewhere, such as differential movement cracks between lightweight conservatories and the main house. Of the valid claims, nearly three quarters are tree-related.

Regardless of the precise cause of movement, the big question to answer in all cases is whether the movement is historic or ‘progressive’, and likely to move more in future.

Of all the valid subsidence claims, nearly three quarters are tree related (Image credit: Getty Images)

Tree-related Subsidence

Tree-related subsidence leaves you with two basic options:

remove the offending tree
manage it (usually by pruning).

But if you simply cut down a large, thirsty tree, the ground may then react by swelling with moisture which is no longer being absorbed — causing ‘heave’. Be aware too that cutting down a tree protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or in a Conservation Area without consent can lead to prosecution.

One remedy is ‘pollarding’ (severe pruning), but not all trees will tolerate heavy crown reductions. For pruning to be effective, reductions of around 90% are required, and some species respond to pruning with vigorous new growth which quickly restores the tree’s moisture uptake. This is why specialist advice should be sought before deciding whether to prune, pollard, or remove a tree.

Installing root barriers can provide an alternative method of tree management. This involves excavating a trench around 4m deep between the offending tree and the building and inserting large sheets made of rigid plastic to protect the whole building from the influence of the vegetation.

This method can have considerable advantages compared to underpinning, plus there’s the benefit of retaining trees. However, there can be practical limitations; barriers, for example, can’t be inserted so close to the tree that the main roots are damaged, risking instability. It’s also important that they are sufficiently robust and designed to accommodate any drainage pipes and underground services.

All houses move, and period properties often had shallower foundation than today — check what is causing the movement before packing about underpinning costs (Image credit: Getty Images)

What Causes Bulging Walls?

Solid walls that bulge outwards or lean, with resulting cracking internally to plasterwork and sticking windows are not unusual and there are a number of possible causes. Leaning tends to be most visible at window and door reveals near roof level.

Bowing or bulging in old solid walls is often due to ‘jerry building’, whereby the walls were never properly tied into the floor or roof structure in the first place, or were just cheaply built. This is sometimes evident in the side walls of Victorian houses and end terraces, for example.

Solid walls were sometimes built with small embedded ‘bonding timbers’ to tie them together. These timbers can, over time, be prone to rotting and expanding, causing the wall to bulge.

Walls can also bow outwards because they are overloaded, having been built too thin or as a result of botched structural alterations. The most common cause of leaning is from ‘roof spread’ where the rafters push the tops of the main walls outwards if they’re not restrained by collars or ceiling joists. This may have happened because the joists were poorly nailed to the rafters or have rotted.

Remedial Action for Bulging Walls

Top Tip

Before the affected wall section(s) can be repaired – or indeed cut out and rebuilt –the cause of the movement must first be identified and eliminated.

Bulging walls caused by excessive loadings need some form of additional support and a structural engineer will need to be consulted. A thin, 115mm single-leaf wall, for example, may need to be entirely rebuilt, or the loadings could be diverted or relieved by installing a steel beam
Walls suffering from a lack of restraint can be secured to the upper floor joists or roof structure by building in metal ties — a modern variation on traditional S or X iron tie bars (below) that can be seen adorning the walls of many an old cottage
Sometimes a wall will have ‘come loose’ because of rotten floor joist ends that used to hold it in place. The rotten timbers must be cut out, the cause of the damp remedied, and the ventilation improved, before defective lengths can be replaced with new pre-treated timber protected by a damp-proof course
Similarly, where the roof has pushed out the walls causing them to spread, the solution is to provide additional restraint such as new ceiling joists or collars, and, in serious cases, to rebuild the upper wall

What Causes External Cracks in Masonry?

Potentially problematic external cracks in masonry, which could allow damp to penetrate, should be addressed before doing anything else.

There are two main kinds of vertical cracking in masonry: those that run straight down through the bricks or stones, and stepped cracks that follow the mortar joints in a zigzag pattern (either tapered or uniform in width). Less commonly, cracks may also run horizontally. Internally, cracks to plasterwork and sticking doors and windows are signs that something is not right, too.

Identifying the Cause of the Movement

Before carrying out repairs, the first step is to identify the cause of the movement. Diagnosing the cause can be difficult, so insurance companies often want to monitor and measure the rate of cracking for at least 12 months in order to diagnose the risk of future movement. This typically involves fitting ‘tell tales’ across the crack. Tell tales are best described as graduated glass microscope slides, screwed in place or secured with epoxy resin adhesive.

Thermal Movement
One of the most common causes of cracking is thermal movement due to adjacent materials expanding and contracting at different rates. This is usually found at the juncture between different materials, such as where old solid brick walls meet blockwork walls. But large stretches of wall made from a single material can also develop thin, vertical thermal movement cracks (hence the need to incorporate vertical movement joints every few metres when building).

Certain materials are especially prone to this form of cracking, such as white calcium silicate bricks (commonly used in the 1960s and ’70s) and reconstituted stone blocks.

Differential Movement
Differential movement is commonly found where new extensions with deeper foundations abut an old house, or when bay windows and porches were built with shallower footings than the main property. Different foundation depths and loadings mean that these will move at a different rate, setting up stresses which in turn lead to cracks.

Water and Rust
If water penetrates a wall and then freezes, it can, over time, cause metal components to rust and expand. If rainwater gets into a crack and there’s an old steel lintel in the wall which begins to rust, for example, the expansion can force the surrounding brickwork to move.

Similarly, iron cramps embedded within traditional stonework can rust where the protective lead coating has cracked. The rust expansion will ultimately crack the stone it was meant to restrain.

Rust too can be the cause of cavity wall tie failure where ungalvanised ties have corroded and expanded. (This is more common in exposed walls in coastal areas.) The expanded ties can jack up the wall, resulting in horizontal cracks at periodic mortar joints corresponding to the tie positions. This is usually more evident to upper walls.

Doors and Windows
It is very common to find stepped cracks above openings in cavity walls where the doors or windows have been replaced, too. This is fairly common in properties built from the 1940s to ’70s with no lintels in the outer leaf; the original steel windows were often designed to support the wall loadings. A lack of support during replacement work can cause the wall to drop slightly.

Shallow Foundations
Subsidence is more likely to occur in older properties with shallow foundations on clay subsoil, on slopes, and with trees nearby. Alarm bells should start to ring where cracks extend below damp-proof course level down to the foundations — this may well be the time to begin thinking about underpinning costs and how they may impact your budget.

Other clues are where tapered diagonal cracks increase in width as they go up the building (typically widening in summer and closing during winter), and where you can see ‘mirror image’ cracking visible both inside and out.

Trees
‘Heave’ is the opposite of subsidence: the ground swells up rather than sinks. It can often occur on clay subsoils typically after the removal of a large nearby tree. The water that would have been absorbed by the roots swamps the ground, and this can then freeze and expand further, pushing the shallow foundations upwards.

Bad Building Work
Finally, we mustn’t overlook the power of botching. Incompetent builders or faulty materials can cause structural defects — steel beams installed with inadequate support at either end being a prime example.

Repairing Wall Cracks

In any case, both thermal and differential movement need to be addressed. This can be done by forming an expansion joint with a flexible mastic sealant. You must notify your local Building Control department in advance of all structural works.

Where the cause of the cracking has been stabilised, stepped cracks can be made good simply by repointing with a suitable mortar or using a clear flexible mastic
With vertical cracks, on the other hand, the damaged bricks or stone will normally need to be cut out and replaced
Another remedial technique for areas of substantial cracking, is to drill a series of holes along the crack and inject them with thixotropic resin grout. The face of the brick can then be repaired with colour-matched mortar which should be undetectable
Alternatively, engineers sometimes recommend that cracks are stitched up using stainless Helifix small diameter rods cut into the masonry and bedded in epoxy mortar
To prevent unsightly cracks reforming in rendered surfaces, a fresh coat of render can be carried across the hidden joint on stainless steel lathing; this gives flexibility to accommodate future movement
Original lintels that were too thin, missing or have become overloaded will need cutting out and replacing
Rusted metal components can be cut out and replaced too with more durable new components, such as stainless steel cramps
Where there’s horizontal cracking along mortar beds, specialist firms can carry out cavity wall tie replacement
Movement due to poorly executed past structural alterations may require a structural engineer to design a new method of additional strengthening.

Underpinning Cost Table

If all of your investigations leave you no choice but to rely on underpinning to resolve the problem, then it pays to understand how much underpinning costs before you begin.

As always, it’s good to get at least three quotes and make sure you know what’s included so you can compare like for like.

	Works	Labour & Material (incl VAT)
Repairing Cracking	Repair vertical cracks in brickwork to prevent further cracking Reinforcing rods to extend 500mm each side of crack. Rake out mortar joints and insert 6mm helical reinforcing rods, bonded with masonry grout; repoint to match existing	£400/m length
	Repair cracks in brickwork (one brick thick) including cutting out bricks and replacing with new, and pointing to match existing	£87/m length
	Cut out defective facing bricks and replace with matching new bricks, including pointing	£17 (single brick)
	Pointing up a crack or replacing a few bricks	Typical costs around £300
Lintels and Beams	Renew defective 1,200mm-long timber lintel, remove old lintel and one course of bricks, fix new steel lintel and brick courses and make good	£358 (in 265mm-wide cavity wall)
	Fix new steel lintel 2,100mm long in prepared opening and make good	£185 (in 265mm-wide cavity wall)
	Remove defective brick arch, clean off bricks, prepare and rebuild arch, and point in mortar	£163 (up to 1m long and half brick wide)
Cavity wall tie replacement	Removal of say 200 defective wall ties, replacement and additioal ties, and allowing for scaffolding. (Add for repointing brickwork or re-rendering and making good disturbed plaster finishes)	£4,500 (total)
Underpinning Costs	First excavation of trenches down to base of existing foundations, say 1m deep	£112/m²
	Support sides of trench	35/m length
	Extra for breaking up 150mm-thick concrete bed	£20/m²
	Second excavation below level of existing foundations (say 1m deep)	£109/m³
	Support to sides of trench (second excavation)	£37/m length
	Cutting away existing foundations (projecting concrete 300mm wide x 300mm deep)	£57/m length
	Concrete underpinning: plain concrete (1:3:6 with 20mm aggregate) filled into form work in foundation trenches, 150–300mm thick	£335/m³
	Typical ballpark cost for underpinning an average house	£10,000 to £15,000

For more information head over to our guide on repairing brickwork and render.

Chartered surveyor Ian Rock MRICS is a director is Rightsurvey.co.uk and the author of eight popular Haynes House Manuals, including the Home Extension Manual, the Self Build Manual and Period Property Manual.

Ian is also the founder of Zennor Consultants. In addition to providing house surveys, Zennor Consultants provide professional guidance on property refurbishment and maintenance as well as advising on the design and construction of home extensions and loft conversions, including planning and Building Regulations compliance.

Ian has recently added a 100m2 extension to his home; he designed and project managed the build and completed much of the interior fit-out on a DIY basis.

Underpinning Cost Guide, Plus Causes of Structural Movement

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This guide will not only explain how much underpinning costs, but also what causes the structural movement in the first place.

What Does Structural Movement Mean?

Is Underpinning Necessary?

Underpinning also tends put off future buyers and insurers.

Before you begin to think about underpinning costs, make sure the cause of the subsidence is thoroughly investigated.

What Causes Subsidence?

Regardless of the precise cause of movement, the big question to answer in all cases is whether the movement is historic or ‘progressive’, and likely to move more in future.

Of all the valid subsidence claims, nearly three quarters are tree related (Image credit: Getty Images)

Tree-related Subsidence

Tree-related subsidence leaves you with two basic options:

remove the offending tree
manage it (usually by pruning).

All houses move, and period properties often had shallower foundation than today — check what is causing the movement before packing about underpinning costs (Image credit: Getty Images)

What Causes Bulging Walls?

Solid walls were sometimes built with small embedded ‘bonding timbers’ to tie them together. These timbers can, over time, be prone to rotting and expanding, causing the wall to bulge.

Remedial Action for Bulging Walls

Top Tip

Before the affected wall section(s) can be repaired – or indeed cut out and rebuilt –the cause of the movement must first be identified and eliminated.

Bulging walls caused by excessive loadings need some form of additional support and a structural engineer will need to be consulted. A thin, 115mm single-leaf wall, for example, may need to be entirely rebuilt, or the loadings could be diverted or relieved by installing a steel beam
Walls suffering from a lack of restraint can be secured to the upper floor joists or roof structure by building in metal ties — a modern variation on traditional S or X iron tie bars (below) that can be seen adorning the walls of many an old cottage
Sometimes a wall will have ‘come loose’ because of rotten floor joist ends that used to hold it in place. The rotten timbers must be cut out, the cause of the damp remedied, and the ventilation improved, before defective lengths can be replaced with new pre-treated timber protected by a damp-proof course
Similarly, where the roof has pushed out the walls causing them to spread, the solution is to provide additional restraint such as new ceiling joists or collars, and, in serious cases, to rebuild the upper wall

What Causes External Cracks in Masonry?

Potentially problematic external cracks in masonry, which could allow damp to penetrate, should be addressed before doing anything else.

Identifying the Cause of the Movement

Certain materials are especially prone to this form of cracking, such as white calcium silicate bricks (commonly used in the 1960s and ’70s) and reconstituted stone blocks.

Similarly, iron cramps embedded within traditional stonework can rust where the protective lead coating has cracked. The rust expansion will ultimately crack the stone it was meant to restrain.

Repairing Wall Cracks

Where the cause of the cracking has been stabilised, stepped cracks can be made good simply by repointing with a suitable mortar or using a clear flexible mastic
With vertical cracks, on the other hand, the damaged bricks or stone will normally need to be cut out and replaced
Another remedial technique for areas of substantial cracking, is to drill a series of holes along the crack and inject them with thixotropic resin grout. The face of the brick can then be repaired with colour-matched mortar which should be undetectable
Alternatively, engineers sometimes recommend that cracks are stitched up using stainless Helifix small diameter rods cut into the masonry and bedded in epoxy mortar
To prevent unsightly cracks reforming in rendered surfaces, a fresh coat of render can be carried across the hidden joint on stainless steel lathing; this gives flexibility to accommodate future movement
Original lintels that were too thin, missing or have become overloaded will need cutting out and replacing
Rusted metal components can be cut out and replaced too with more durable new components, such as stainless steel cramps
Where there’s horizontal cracking along mortar beds, specialist firms can carry out cavity wall tie replacement
Movement due to poorly executed past structural alterations may require a structural engineer to design a new method of additional strengthening.

Underpinning Cost Table

If all of your investigations leave you no choice but to rely on underpinning to resolve the problem, then it pays to understand how much underpinning costs before you begin.

As always, it’s good to get at least three quotes and make sure you know what’s included so you can compare like for like.

	Works	Labour & Material (incl VAT)
Repairing Cracking	Repair vertical cracks in brickwork to prevent further cracking Reinforcing rods to extend 500mm each side of crack. Rake out mortar joints and insert 6mm helical reinforcing rods, bonded with masonry grout; repoint to match existing	£400/m length
	Repair cracks in brickwork (one brick thick) including cutting out bricks and replacing with new, and pointing to match existing	£87/m length
	Cut out defective facing bricks and replace with matching new bricks, including pointing	£17 (single brick)
	Pointing up a crack or replacing a few bricks	Typical costs around £300
Lintels and Beams	Renew defective 1,200mm-long timber lintel, remove old lintel and one course of bricks, fix new steel lintel and brick courses and make good	£358 (in 265mm-wide cavity wall)
	Fix new steel lintel 2,100mm long in prepared opening and make good	£185 (in 265mm-wide cavity wall)
	Remove defective brick arch, clean off bricks, prepare and rebuild arch, and point in mortar	£163 (up to 1m long and half brick wide)
Cavity wall tie replacement	Removal of say 200 defective wall ties, replacement and additioal ties, and allowing for scaffolding. (Add for repointing brickwork or re-rendering and making good disturbed plaster finishes)	£4,500 (total)
Underpinning Costs	First excavation of trenches down to base of existing foundations, say 1m deep	£112/m²
	Support sides of trench	35/m length
	Extra for breaking up 150mm-thick concrete bed	£20/m²
	Second excavation below level of existing foundations (say 1m deep)	£109/m³
	Support to sides of trench (second excavation)	£37/m length
	Cutting away existing foundations (projecting concrete 300mm wide x 300mm deep)	£57/m length
	Concrete underpinning: plain concrete (1:3:6 with 20mm aggregate) filled into form work in foundation trenches, 150–300mm thick	£335/m³
	Typical ballpark cost for underpinning an average house	£10,000 to £15,000

For more information head over to our guide on repairing brickwork and render.

Ian has recently added a 100m2 extension to his home; he designed and project managed the build and completed much of the interior fit-out on a DIY basis.

Price list for construction work | FUNDAMENT-NSO.com

Excavation
Name of work	Change	Price
Geodetic works, laying out the main axes of the building	m²	50 ₽
Excavation and trenching engineer supervision	hour	350 ₽
Manual excavation	m²	900 ₽
Manual earth moving up to 30 m	m³	400 ₽
Manual leveling of the bottom and walls of the excavation	m²	70 ₽
Manual sand or gravel foundations	m²	110 ₽
Manual backfill without rammer	m³	450 ₽
Layer-by-layer compaction of soil th. 300 mm	m²	100 ₽
Thick clay layer-by-layer rammer, clay lock device	m²	60 ₽

Foundations
Name of work	Change	Price
Installation of strip foundations (grillages) with double reinforcement and formwork	m³	3200 ₽
Reinforced bored piles	m³	3000 ₽
Installation of small monolithic reinforced concrete pads and grillages with reinforcement and formwork	m³	4000 ₽
Installation of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt and beams with a section of 300 * 300 with reinforcement and installation of formwork	m³	3800 ₽
Installation of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt with a section of less than 300 * 300 with reinforcement and installation of formwork	m. p.	800 ₽
FBS installation with mortar preparation	pcs.	600 ₽
Monolithic and brick embeddings in FBS with formwork installation	m³	3500 ₽
Manual mixing of concrete	m³	900 ₽
Installation of straight retaining walls 250 – 300 mm thick with space frame and formwork	m³	4000 ₽
Concrete preparation device with formwork	m²	300 ₽

Warming and waterproofing
Name of work	Change	Price
Cleaning the foundation surface with brushes from soil	m²	50 ₽
Coated vertical waterproofing with bituminous mastic	m²	70 ₽
1 layer vertical waterproofing	m²	220 ₽
Insulation of basement walls with foam plastic in 1 layer	m²	130 ₽
Flat slate mechanical protection device	m²	150 ₽

Wall construction
Name of work	Change	Price
Masonry walls over 380 mm thick	m³	2200 ₽
Foam block masonry, sibita 300-400 mm thick	m³	1600 ₽
Brick (sibit) masonry partitions 120 mm (100 mm) thick	m²	550 ₽
Brick (sibit) masonry of walls and partitions 250 mm (200 mm) thick	m²	650 ₽
Facing brickwork	m³	1300 ₽
Pillar masonry (380*380)	m. p.	1000 ₽
Pillar masonry (640*640)	m.p.	1400 ₽
Masonry pillars (380*380) of facing bricks	m.p.	1250 ₽
Unlined bricklaying of ventilation ducts and pipes	m.p.	850 ₽
Brickwork for concealed ventilation ducts	m. p.	350 ₽
Simple wall plaster without beacons	m²	250 ₽
Beacon wall plaster (high quality)	m²	350 ₽
High-quality plaster for lighthouses with mesh installation	m²	550 ₽

Floor installation
Name of work	Change	Price
Installation of floor slabs with mortar preparation and grouting, without anchoring	pcs.	700 ₽
Anchoring floor slabs	pcs.	250 ₽
Manufacture of lintels, beams with a section of 380*200 mm	m.p.	1200 ₽
Installation of monolithic reinforced concrete sections 200 mm thick, with installation of suspended formwork and reinforcement, without concrete preparation	m³	2500 ₽
Fabrication and installation of small metal structures primed	pcs.	$0

Roof device
Name of work	Change	Price
Full range of roofing works without insulation (soft tiles)	m²	1350 ₽
Full range of complex roofing works with insulation (soft tiles)	m²	1650 ₽
A full range of works on the installation of a complex roof with insulation (metal tiles)	m²	1400 ₽
A full range of works on the installation of a complex roof with insulation (profiled sheet)	m²	1350 ₽
Full range of roofing works without insulation (metal tiles, corrugated board)	m²	1100 ₽
Installation of a horizontal and vertical drainage system (with scaffolding)	m. p.	400 ₽
Cornice hemming with frame (with scaffolding)	m.p.	500 ₽
Installation of complex ventilation ducts	m²	2000 ₽

Floor arrangement
Name of work	Change	Price
Technoelast type waterproofing device with welding of seams and junctions in 1 layer	m²	150 ₽
Insulation of floors with foam plastic in 1 layer	m²	90 ₽
Installation of reinforced floors 50-130 mm thick along beacons (without concrete preparation)	m²	400 ₽
Installation of reinforced floors 130-200 mm thick along beacons (without concrete preparation)	m²	450 ₽

Fence construction
Name of work	Change	Price
Concreting fence posts	pcs.	500 ₽
Installation of a metal fence frame with painting	m²	750 ₽
Fence strip foundation	m³	3200 ₽
Laying posts for a fence made of facing bricks	m²	1250 ₽
Installation of a metal fence on the fence	m²	300 ₽
Manufacture of forged fences	m²	2500 ₽
Installation of profiled sheet (corrugated board) on the fence	m²	250 ₽
Masonry fence made of facing bricks	m²	1300 ₽
Manufacture of gates from corrugated sheet, corrugated board	m²	3000 ₽
Production of swing gates from corrugated sheet, corrugated board	m²	3000 ₽
Production of sliding gates from corrugated sheets, corrugated boards	m²	5000 ₽

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Turnkey strip foundation at a bargain price in Yekaterinburg

Prices and estimates for the construction of a strip foundation. The price is per square meter:

Name of work	type	price
Preparation of trenches and pits
Manual excavation with compaction	cubic meters	700 rubles
Manual excavation with attachment device	cubic meters	500 rub.
Compacted backfill	cubic meters	700 rubles
Preparing the sand bed 15-20 cm	cubic meters	500 rub.
Preparing compacted gravel base	cubic meters	450 rubles
Concrete preparation device 10-15 cm thick	cubic meters	1500 rub.
Trench and pit cleaning	cubic meters	400 rubles
Monolithic reinforced foundations
Manufacturing of spatial reinforcement frame	tons	12000 rub.
Formwork construction and demolition	sq.m	250 r.
Installation of monolithic foundations for columns	cubic meters	3000 rub.
Installation of monolithic reinforced slab foundations	cubic meters	3000 rub.
Concrete pads (manual concrete preparation)	cubic meters	4000 rub.
Column foundation (all works)	cubic meters	4000 rub.
Installation of concrete lintels with reinforcement and formwork	pcs.	1500 rub.
Installation of piled (in a pipe) foundations (all works)	cubic meters	3500 r.
Strip foundations (all works)	cubic meters	3000 rub.
Lightweight concrete block strip foundations	cubic meters	3500 r.
Shallow strip foundations
Under a junk or frame-panel house 6×4, 1st floor	p.m.	2000
Under a timber or frame-panel house 6×8, 1st floor	p.m.	2500 rub.
Under a timber or frame-panel house 7×9, 1st floor	p.m.	3000 rub.
Under timber or log house 6×4, 2 floors	p.m.	3200 rub.
Under timber or log house 6×8, 2 floors	p.m.	4000 rub.
Under timber or log house 7×9, 2 floors	p.m.	5000 rub.
Piling and pile driving
Diving supports, pipes up to 5 meters	p.m.	400 rubles
Immersion of supports, pipes using a vibrator over 5 m	p.m.	500 rub.
Screw pile driving	p.m.	600 rubles

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Strip foundations – the optimal design for individual construction

Strip foundations are used in the construction of buildings in the presence of a threat of their uneven settlement in the ground. The installation of a strip foundation, performed by our company, allows you to successfully redistribute efforts, protecting the walls of houses from deformations and cracks. Such foundations are laid under load-bearing walls along the perimeter of the building.

We will immediately answer the popular question of developers “how much does a strip foundation cost?” – its price is affected by the design depth, the width of the structure, the materials used for its construction, their delivery and unloading.

The construction of such foundations requires strict adherence to building technologies, so laying such a foundation at home is not recommended.

Types of strip foundations: where and how supports for the house are used

Of the varieties of strip foundations offered by our company, the most popular are:

recessed,
with bored piles.

The choice of the type of foundation for a particular house depends on the customer’s budget for the implementation of the construction, the design features of the buildings, as well as the characteristics of the soil.

Shallow strip foundation for small houses and fences

Used in the construction of small houses located on dispersed soils, as well as for the construction of fences.

A shallow strip foundation under the house is laid to a depth of up to 0.7 m, i.e. above the expected level of soil freezing. It is more reliable than a non-buried foundation and much cheaper than a buried one. Such a foundation allows you to equip a basement under the house.

Performing the construction of a shallow strip foundation, they carry out work on marking, digging trenches, erecting formwork and concreting.

Buried strip foundation

For heavy buildings, a foundation is used below the freezing depth of the soil, called buried. Its design requires more than that of a non-buried one, the consumption of materials. When planning the construction of garages and basements under houses, such foundations will be ideal.

The list of works during their erection is the same as during the construction of an unburied foundation.

Foundation on bored piles

It is better to arrange a strip foundation on bored piles on “weak” soils, erecting wooden and foam block houses. To do this, they drill the required number of wells (in rows) and reinforce them. Then formwork is installed along the wells around the perimeter of the foundation and poured with concrete. The grillage (shallow tape) and concrete-filled wells form an integral monolithic structure.

The price of a strip foundation with bored piles is lower than monolithic ones due to the use of fewer materials.

Using quality materials for the construction of all foundations, the latest equipment and innovative technologies, our company guarantees their reliability and durability.

Scheme of work

1. Call us
2. Call the measurer
3. Fixed payment agreement

4. Designation of terms,
penalties for violation of terms
5. Payment on site
6. Year of warranty repair

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Customer reviews

Alexander Sergeev

The wife decided to make repairs and change the interior of the bedroom. The room is small 16 sq. m. In order not to waste their time and nerves, they turned to Sokora. The company’s designers came up with several solutions. I really liked the bedroom with decorative wooden inserts at the head of the bed, as well as how it turned out to place mirrors in the room, it was important for us. Done well and quickly, thank you!

Ekaterina I.

After a long bad bathroom remodeling experience, which was done almost free of charge by another company, we were very afraid to turn to other contractors.
After much deliberation, we decided to order a bathroom renovation in Sokor. It was necessary to redo the floor, make new tiles and fix a leak in the shower cabin, and carry out minor plumbing work. After evaluation and measurements, they provided several options and did their job quickly and efficiently, for which special thanks!

Evgenia Kostyreva

I will write an honest review about the company Socor.
I ordered the renovation of a one-room apartment. Corridor, bathroom, kitchen and turnkey room. At the first stage, everything was perfect. I ordered a measurer, discussed all the nuances, received an estimate. I arrived at the office, the manager Ekaterina and the measurer Ilya, checked the estimate again, signed the contract. Work began after 7 days. 2 craftsmen came, poured the floor, prepared the walls. Then the tiler came, but after 2 days. They said he got sick. Waited 2 days for a new tiler in the bathroom. And you know, a young master came, there were no comments on the work. Bathroom done in 9days is fast. Then the wallpaper in the room. Laminate and stretch ceiling. The entire repair took 35 days. I am satisfied with the work. A month has passed, nothing has disappeared. I won’t attach a photo. It’s personal.
Feedback taken from the FLAMP website – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6258027

Polina M.

Sokora’s company did a bathroom and toilet renovation for us. Market prices are cheaper than private sellers

Antoha Bui

We ordered a “turnkey” apartment renovation in Socor’s company.
Actually came “zamershchik” so we call it. They told us what and how we want, walked around, measured, “set” the points where new sockets and switches would be located. He told how the work will be performed, in what sequence and approximately how long it will take. The next day, they called from the company and announced the cost of all the work that had been discussed. A contract was drawn up and work began.
The masters worked, so to speak, “from and to” with a break for lunch. Once every 3-4 days, I went to see how the work was going and to chat with the guys, all of a sudden they were doing something wrong)
In general, in almost 3 weeks, we did all the work that was discussed, by the way, I got a tension in the hall as a gift, they planned to do it later, but here’s such a bonus.
Briefly: We arrived, discussed, did, we are satisfied. We will recommend to friends
Thank you company!

Take a review from the FLAMP website – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6263184

Anastasia

We ordered the refurbishment of two bathrooms.
Organizational issues were resolved quickly enough, thanks to the manager Ekaterina, she was always in touch. Someone has already written about interaction with the technical department, and I confirm that a single phone without understanding which of the employees is assigned to us is completely inconvenient. Every time you call, you start the story with your address and a description of the issue, they promise to call back. And then you have to contact on a new one, if they didn’t get in touch at the designated time, and again tell who you are and why you are calling.
And now thanks! A huge thank you to tiler Hovik for my peace of mind. Every day they came on time (from 9hours), work all day and very conscientiously. Excellent quality of work and fast deadlines, as promised, they did it in 8-10 days. They do it as they please, they try to make everything aesthetically beautiful, he cares how the tile at the entrance will look, how the cabinet with the sink will be fixed – he will definitely strengthen it additionally, advise on the choice of materials. I understand that we are very lucky with the master.
In the process of work, a problem arose with the painter. We were assigned first one master, the quality of work (to put it bluntly) is disgusting. Then another, who immediately refused, because. there was already an understanding that it would be necessary to tinker with “this” now. Then they said to wait 4 days, because. all masters are busy. Here we immediately decided to stop the confusion and abandoned this part of the work.
Cooperation with Sokora left a positive impression, thanks to master Hovik and manager Ekaterina. Thank you very much for your work!

Feedback taken from the site – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6218388

Alexandra Mordorovskaya

I want to express my deep gratitude to the entire workforce of the company for the excellent work, I would especially like to note the performers of individual works: Elena, the wallpaper sticker master, who promptly responded to the finishing touches, arrived and made edits, Alexander and Andrey, the stretch ceiling masters, who pulled ceiling and completed additional. work on foaming the seams on the ceiling, and Maxim is a jack of all trades, and he delivered the linoleum and installed the skirting boards and everything was very neat and fast.
Many thanks to the guys for the human and professional attitude!
The only thing that caused difficulties was process management; I’m used to the fact that all stages are coordinated by one manager of the company, and here there are several people and for any question you need to call those. department, and there different people pick up the phone and you have to explain the same thing again and again …
I wish good luck to the whole team of the company and will definitely contact you next time.

Feedback taken from the site – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6214440

Dmitry Savchuk

For a long time I chose from whom to do repairs and settled on Socor’s company, I did the repairs myself directly in the toilet.
The first step was to make new plumbing to connect the water heater and sink.
Installed a toilet bowl. Installed an outlet for a water heater.
I was present at all stages of the renovation. For all the time there were no complaints about the work. I am quite satisfied with the work, it was done with high quality as for myself. There were a couple of days when the master did not come to 9, and by 11. But Alexander always worked, until 6-7 pm, in order to have time to make a toilet. I express my deep gratitude for the quickly done work!

Feedback taken from the site – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-61

I applied to the construction company Sokora 2 years ago. I had a complete renovation of my apartment. Satisfied with the repair. But there was still a small plywood wallpaper in the kitchen. Now it’s time to finish the bathroom. Contacted this company again. All repair work was carried out by Harutyunyan Kadzho. This Master can do it all! Does quality work! He dismantled everything in the bathroom, and ditched the walls, and processed the walls, laid tiles, and put everything back in place. I am happy with my new bathroom! Thank you so much! If anyone will apply to the Socor company, I recommend this particular master! This is a master – golden hands! You will not regret! I’m waiting for the ceiling to be stretched to me. There is one difficulty – the cornice for curtains must be attached to the ceiling, so I’m worried … But I hope this work will also be done with high quality!
Feedback taken from the Flamp website – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6141223#comments

Dmitry Parkhimchik

Booked a bathroom remodel! The manager Tatiana was very friendly. The price is right, not expensive! Master Andrey went to work. Excellent specialist. Everything was done exactly according to the design project. The quality of the work done is excellent. Andrei does not drink or smoke at all. I sometimes worked until 22 to finish faster. I am very satisfied, definitely recommend!
Feedback taken from the Flamp website – https://ekaterinburg.flamp.ru/firm/sokora_remont_stroitelnyjj_dom-1267165676350912/otzyv-6130229

foundation pouring in Ufa

Construction of the foundation in Ufa on a turnkey basis in Ufa. The price per m3 is from 1500 rubles m3.

Foundation rates. Without digging – from 1500 – rubles per m3. Digging separately 900 rubles per m3. The work includes the following: (marking on the site, manually digging a trench around the perimeter, drilling for piles, assembling reinforcement, assembling formwork, receiving concrete – and bringing the foundation to zero)

Work and material turnkey; Price from 8900-up to 11000 rubles per m3. Depends on the volume and distance from the city; Materials such as (metal-diameter 12-14 reinforcement, concrete M-250. Pgs, Planed boards subsequently remain to the customer. Drilling depth 2, 5 meters – every 1.8 meters, manual digging 30-60cm around the perimeter. PGS pillow with tamping. In a word, for this money, the foundation will be ready within 10 days. The project and the money are up to you and the foundation is ready. Prices depend on distance from the city and volume

Reinforced concrete foundation

Concrete preparation device up to 100 mm thick.

m3

1600

Installation of a monolithic concrete foundation for columns, with formwork, up to 3 m

m3

from 2500

Installation of monolithic flat foundation slabs with the manufacture of a reinforcing cage and installation of formwork

m3

from 2500

Installation of small monolithic reinforced concrete grillages and foundation pads with laying of viscous reinforcement, assembly and disassembly of formwork from boards and manual concrete preparation

m3

2800

Construction of strip foundations and basement walls from concrete blocks with mortar preparation and formwork assembly and disassembly

m3

from 2500

Installation of concrete lintels with formwork

pcs.

from 600

Filling in multiple places with bricks

m2

from 800

Production of pile foundations up to 300 mm with installation of ac pipes, viscous and installation of reinforcing cage, preparation and pouring of concrete

l.m.

from 3200

Installation of precast concrete floor slabs

pcs.

from 600

Reinforced laying of a solid brick plinth for plastering with mortar preparation

m3

from 2200

Laying blocks and slabs of strip foundations, weighing up to 0.5 tons

pcs.

from 300

Leveling screed device for pasting rolled waterproofing up to 30 mm thick.

m2

from 280

Coating vertical waterproofing of the foundation with bitumen with mixture heating

m2

from 120

Wall waterproofing device roll (1 layer)

m2

from 140

Wall waterproofing device, roll (2 layers)

m2

from 210

Insulation of flat and curved surfaces with mineral wool products

m2

from 160

Expanded clay filling device

m3
300
Installation of prefabricated stairs

pcs.

from 600

Concreting of the pool bowl 300 mm thick. With reinforcement, installation and removal of formwork

m3

3800

Manufacture and installation of trays for receiving concrete

m.p.

from 200

Making round formwork

m2

from 250

Filling interblock spaces with mortar

m.p.

from 450

Installation of foundation blocks with equipment

pcs.

from 400

Installation of monolithic reinforced concrete steps with concrete preparation, formwork installation, reinforcement

Turnkey slab foundation – Filling price per meter in Moscow

Monolithic slab – a common type of foundation in the construction of buildings from massive building materials. It can withstand high loads and can be used in the construction of a house on different soils, including moving ones. Turnkey monolithic slab foundation is a job that our company can do quickly and with quality assurance. The base of this type is a concrete slab, which is suitable for the construction of multi-storey brick houses and country cottages.

UWB

Monolithic slab

Its installation is recommended in areas with the following characteristics:
moving topsoil;

loose soil structure, which is characteristic of sandstones.

For additional protection against moisture, waterproofing is used, deep drainage is arranged.

Construction of a slab foundation for a house

Size, m*m HEIGHT Area, m2

150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm

6×6 119 000 rub. 121 000 rubles 195 000 rub. 255 000 rub. 36

6×8 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 rub. 48

8×8 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 rub. 64

8×10 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 rub. 80

10×10 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 rub. 100

10×12 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 rub. 120

12×12 119 000 rub. 138 000 rub. 219 000 rub. 277 000 144

12 or more on request

Benefits of slab foundation

Heavy concrete is used to cast a monolithic slab foundation.

The main advantageous characteristics of such a foundation-slab are:

increased strength;

uniform load distribution over the entire area;

reduction of design load per square meter of surface;

prevention of deformation of load-bearing elements;

resistance to vertical and horizontal loads;

due to reinforcement – resistance to bending and compression;

can be used as a house made of heavy material.

How is the price for pouring a slab foundation formed?

The cost of construction services and works is calculated for each case separately and depends on the size of the foundation, building design, remoteness of the construction site, prices for materials.

The total amount with itemized costs of work is reflected in the estimate and includes the following items:

preparation of design and estimate documentation;

purchase and delivery of building materials;

use of special equipment and labor of workers.

In practice, we use progressive construction technologies, which allows us to speed up construction, reduce its estimated cost and create a structure with high technical parameters.

Why should you contact us?

We independently carry out a set of works related to the preparation and laying of the slab foundation of the house, which includes geodetic and geological surveys, engineering calculations, project preparation and turnkey construction work.

For our part, during construction, we guarantee:

accurate calculations, taking into account the design features of the building, on the basis of which a project is developed for specific conditions;

the use of certified building materials, which ensures high performance of the finished object;

savings – we buy building materials in bulk from trusted suppliers, so our customers do not pay extra money to intermediaries;

constant control, observance of terms of works and other obligations.

If you have any questions about cooperation or need a preliminary consultation on the cost of building a slab foundation, call our managers or send an e-mail.

price calculation, what determines the cost of construction

In private construction, strip foundations are still most often used – it is simple in execution and reliable, its durability has been tested by time. A house, a bathhouse, a fence or a garage is placed on a reinforced concrete tape of constant section, passing along the perimeter of the entire building and under the walls. This is a universal option used for buildings with walls made of brick, stone, concrete, as well as in the presence of massive ceilings.

Turnkey cost of a tape base in Moscow

Table 1 shows prices for several types of tape intended for houses, outbuildings, fences.

Table 1.

9000
Table 2.

Company Foundation The price of one chassel meter, rubles

Build the foundation Small -sized of 3 400
900 2 900

The price of the foundation, rub/pog.m Dimensions of the house, m Current cost, rubles

3 400 6×6 81 600

6х8 81 200

7 000 6х9 210 000

2 600 8х8 83 200

7 800 10х10 312 000

What determines the cost and how can you save?

A rational approach to foundation work begins with the choice of reinforced concrete strip, which will form the foundation of the house. There are the following varieties.

1. Shallow-buried belt (MZLF) – a wooden or small brick house (6×6 m, 6×8 m), a bathhouse or an outbuilding is placed on it, provided that the soil on the site is low-pitched. MZLF is characterized by small volumes of earthworks (its depth is 0.5-0.7 m), low labor intensity of formwork manufacturing.

The concreting of the tape takes place in a shorter time, the reinforcement requires less rod and wire. We should not forget only that the pouring of concrete should be preceded by adding a dense sand cushion. The price of construction of shallow strip foundations is 2-3 times lower compared to other types.

2. A deep foundation is required if the building has massive walls or ceilings. In this case, the base is placed 20-30 cm below the soil freezing limit. Experts recommend laying a deep foundation for a house with a basement, or if a garage is planned under the residential floor. Due to the great depth, the device of such a base will cost more (both materials and work).

3. Precast concrete. It is made up of prefabricated blocks (FBS), fastening them with mortar right on the construction site. Any low-rise building can be placed on a block base, the main advantage of the option is the speedy installation work and ease of assembly. The downside is the lack of a single structure, the need to use a crane due to the large weight of the FBS. With the same design thickness, the cost of a prefabricated foundation is practically the same as that of a monolithic counterpart.

4. Tape and pole for a fence made of corrugated board. The base is a combination of tape and individual cushions (supports for supporting pillars). The work is carried out in this order: digging holes for poles, digging a trench for the tape, backfilling a pillow of sand and gravel, installing supports and formwork, pouring concrete and reinforcing it. For a profiled sheet fence, unlike heavy forged or stone fences, continuous concreting of the monolith is not required – this saves materials, and the work will cost less.

Studying the prices for ready-made strip foundations and looking for the most profitable option for making the foundation of a turnkey house, you should not forget about the nuances of the work. A specialist usually draws up an estimate for an order after visiting the site and analyzing the project of the house, having completed the calculation. The costs of laying the foundation of a house are divided into several articles, each of which is worth talking about in more detail.

Costs of building materials

Calculation involves determining the dimensional parameters of the foundation, concrete grade, calculating the amount of each component (including reinforcement). The price of the material is then multiplied by its calculated volume or weight (increased by the safety factor). In general, the price of the tape is determined by its width, depth and length, corresponding to the sum of the perimeter of the building and the total length of the bearing walls. Of course, the foundation of a two-story cottage 10×10 m will cost more than a one-story house 8×8 or a summer cottage 6×6 m, laid out in half a brick.

To perform concreting, the components of the mixture (cement, sand, crushed stone) or ready-made concrete are purchased. It should be noted that the independent production of concrete will reduce its cost by about 15-20%, but you also need to take into account the cost of renting a concrete mixer and ensure its uninterrupted operation. Filling should be carried out continuously to ensure the solidity of the base.

Reinforcement is carried out using special rods, binding wire or welding electrodes. It is not recommended to reduce the design footage of the reinforcement, since the frame structure will lose strength in this case. If there is no project, reinforcement is recommended to be carried out at the rate of at least 10 linear meters of a bar with a diameter of 12 mm per 1 m2 of the foundation area.

Experts do not advise saving on the purchase of polyethylene film, which is laid on the formwork. If pouring is done without waterproofing, concrete milk flows out – as a result, the bearing capacity of the base decreases.

In addition to material costs, a significant share in the estimate is the cost of construction work.

Site preparation. It includes cutting down trees, uprooting stumps, laying temporary roads, and arranging a site. Preparatory work in order to save money can be done on your own.

Digging a pit. The volume of earthworks significantly affects the price. At this stage, the real location of groundwater is revealed, the homogeneity of the soil, it becomes clearer how to prepare the foundation. Sometimes you need to adjust the calculation.

Formwork. Trying to save money, you should not use partial installation of the formwork, subsequent concreting, and then dismantling the boards and further increasing the height. If the casting is interrupted, cold seams form – the price will decrease, and the strength will suffer.

Pouring of concrete mixture or installation of FBS.

Installation of floors.

Hydro and thermal insulation. They help to increase the life of the base and reduce the freezing of the soil under the house in winter (at the same time, heating costs will decrease).

Drainage. It is inexpensive, but prevents the appearance of mold and dampness in the house.