Acl room thermostat: Drayton (ACL) RTS1 Room Thermostat
Drayton (ACL) RTS1 Room Thermostat
A Potterton PRT2 has a brown wire loop from Com to TL terminals. Where would this loop connect on RTS1?
Thank you.
The loop is not needed on the RTS1.
Existing thermostat is Potterton PRT2. Is there a suitable alternative?
Yes, this will be suitable.
Hello I have a British Gas thermostat model RS2 which needs replaced which model do I replace with thanks
Hi This one would be suitable.
hi i purchased your RTS1 thermostat to replace my old Honeywell T6360B 1028 when i removed the Honeywell it only had 2 wires (Live and Neutral) yours seems to need 3 wires is there any way yours will work with only 2 wires or do i need a different model thanks.
Hi. I’m afraid not. You will need a 2-wire thermostat like the Siemens RAA21 or a digital thermostat.
Hi I am replacing my old ACL TS142 with a Drayton RTS1, can you advise if the terminal 3 is the heating load connection.
thank you
Hi. Terminal 3 on the RTS1 is the heating load.
I have a ACL TS142 thermostat which needs replacement do you have a direct easy to replace model?
If it is controlling a gas or oil boiler, then this RTS1 would be suitable.
should the thermostat be placed in the main living room
Every property is different, but the main living room is normally a good place for the thermostat.
Can this stat work with a remote hard wired sensor in a bathroom?
I’m afraid it does not have a facility for a remote sensor.
I have an old ACL THERMOSTAT that was working when we moved in 26 years ago and still works but the wife wants to have a new one so it looks better on the wall by the front door. THE DIMENSIONS ARE 2 3/4 INCHES SQUARE AND THE DIAL IS SMALL 1 1/4 DIAMETER . What of the ACL DAYTONS WOULD BE THE DIRECT REPLACEMENT
Please let us know the model number of the one you are replacing. Or email us a photo to [email protected]
Hi, when I am clicking the dial round it isn’t clicking on at all. How can I check too see what the fault is?
You will need to check to see if the RTS1 is receiving power. If not, then the fault is likely to be with the timer.
i need to replace my room thermostat — model TS142–what can i buy as a direct replacement
If it is controlling a gas or oil boiler, the RTS1 is suitable as a replacement for the TS142.
Hi, I need to replace a 15 year old Landis & Staefa stat. It has red, yellow and earth wires connected plus a blue wire that isn’t connected. will this work?. Thanks.
You will need that blue wire to be a neutral for the RTS1 to work. It will also need to be a gas or oil boiler that it is controlling.
I have an RS1 thermostat which fails to respond to low temperature settings and I am thinking of replacing it with a two wire battery operated thermostat. I believe the RS1 is a three wire stat, how do I connect the two wire stat? Many thanks.
You will need to isolate the neutral.
Hi , I moved recently and find out that I have no thermostat at the moment for my oil burner that is exactly the same kind of oil burner as the one where i lived before and i had dayton thermostat before , can i set this one up ? And if yes do u have any diy video link or something ?Btw i have that controller to turn on and off the heating
Please let us know the make/model of the burner you have and we will check for you.
In many cases it is easier to fit a wireless thermostat.
will this thermostat be a direct replacement for a british gas rs1 that I currently have.
Yes, it will.
have a british gas rsl, the stat doesn’t click manually, there are three pins on the back, is this the correct replacement please?
Yes it is,.
I have a ACL TS142 room stat which I can’t adjust anymore, it’s over 30 years old, will this replace it? and if not can you recommend another?
As long as it is on a system with a gas or oil fired boiler it will be fine.
If it controlling electric radiators or warm air system, then you will need a 16amp thermostat.
My current thermostat is playing up (doesn’t cut in when minimum temperature is reached and has to be manually set to kick the heating on). I have an old ACL Drayton Thermostat which looks almost identical to this one except the logo is ACL Drayton. There no other model details on the outside. Will this one replace it or do I need to provide more infomration?
There will be a sticker on the back of the unit with the model number. You will need to check this says RTS1.
I have a potteron RS40 boiler and want to change the room 4 wire thermostat, can I use an Drayton RTS8 2 wire room thermostat?
No. if your existing one is 4-wire then you will need another 4-wire one. Please let us know the make/model of your existing thermostat and we will recommend a replacement.
Will this thermostat replace a 17 year old drayton digistat 1 with no electrical work required. if not which model do I need.
No you will need a 2-wire thermostat like the Siemens RAA21.
I have a British Gas RS1 thermostat in hallway. Yesterday would not click on for heating. Radiators stayed cold. About 3 hours later heating came on and I was able to adjust temperature. However this morning cannot turn heating on as thermostat will not click on. The green light is off. The central heating system is new with new radiators but thermostat is from the original system. Will this mean a replacement thermostat? Kind Regards, Diane Howitt
It could mean a failed thermostat, or a failed timer.
I have a RS1 and EMP2 the heating keeps on after gone past turn off 10pm last night still going 2.30 this morning RS1 turned down to 10 some times won’t click on or off will I need both replacements
Thank Alec
It sounds more like a faulty motorised valve.
Hi, is the BG RS1 for use with a combi boiler? Thanks
It depends on the boiler. If the boiler has 230v switching for the controls, then yes. If it is low voltage switching, then no.
Will this replace a British Gas rs1? Using the back plate already on the wall ie no electric work needed to fit?
Yes it will.
How do you get Bg RS1 off wall7
Loosen the screw at the bottom. It then hinges up. Switch the electric off first.
Hi, Is this thermostat compatible with a British gas Model Up 2 Programmer?
Yes it is.
Hi , I have a British Gas RS1 thermostat which is located right next to the airing cupboard, it’s operation is variable & I suspect it would work better if relocated elsewhere in the hall. Can I fit a Wireless Digital Thermostat to replace it & put the thermostat unit elsewhere? If so which would you recommend
You won’t be able to place the receiver in the place of the RS1, as it won’t have the required connections. You will need to place the receiver in the airing cupboard next to the wiring centre.
will the RTS1 replace the British gas ES1 ,using BG backplate ,already wired ?
Thanks
No you will need RTS4.
I bought some Drayton RTS 1 3 wire thermostats and they work very well . What I want to know is what is the difference between a 3 wire thermostat and a 2 wire thermostat or what does a 3 wire thermostat do that a 2 wire one will not do.
Thanks
Matthew
The extra wire is a neutral, the neutral improves accuracy and performance. The exception to this are battery powered digital thermostats which are only 2-wire.
i have a very old room stat (it reads in Fahrenheit!) it has two wire into it. The system is an old baxi Bermuda back boiler with a Randall 102 controller.
Can this stat replace mine? And
Can the Randall 102e7 replace the 102?
Thanks
Mick
This requires 3 wires, so is not suitable. I would recommend a digital thermostat, like the Danfoss Randall RET-B, instead.
Yes, the 102E7 will replace the 102.
Hello
would the RTS1 room thermostat replace a potterton prt2 (which is now redundant)or would you suggest an alternative ? (currently three wire system)
It will replace the Potterton prt2.
RTS1 Technical Data.
Sir,
My RTS1 stat seems to have a temp variation of around 5 deg.C between switching on and off. This results in room temperatures varying too much through the working period.
Can you tell me the design specification for the variation plus or minus around the set temperature.
Thank you
Jim Cottam
The differential is
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Drayton RTS1 1-Channel Wired Room Thermostat | Wired Thermostats
- Reviews
- Q&As
- Specifications
Rated 5 out of
5
by
DaveRomsey from
DRAYTON RTS1 Thermostat
Great value replacement for the old original one. Clip on to the original base plate to use the existing wiring.
Date published: 2022-09-05
Rated 5 out of
5
by
Chippie1975 from
Easy replacement fix
Simple easy replacement fix for RTS1 thermostat. (Please be aware that there are more than one type of thermometer which look very similar from the front)
Loosen the two screws at the bottom of the unit and pull the base forward and lift the top off (please note that you may have some silicon or decorators Caulk holding this on) if so, carefully remove this. Remove the front of the unit and look inside. It should state the code and you will need to match this to the replacement unit. Mine was RTS1.
If you have the correct replacement unit, you could get away with leaving all of the wiring intact and just placing the new front unit onto the old back plate by slotting the unit over the two location lugs at the top and then tighten up the two screws at the bottom and job done.
If you have a little bit of knowledge with DIY, this can be done without paying someone to come and do a 5 min job.
Stay warm…
Date published: 2022-04-04
Rated 5 out of
5
by
TRJH from
Drayton Room Thermostat
I have just bought a drayton room thermostat from Screwfix and have found that all is now working correctly, it was supplied by Screwfix very quickly and l am pleased with the over all performance of both. I can recommend both Drayton and Screwfix.
Date published: 2022-03-10
Rated 5 out of
5
by
hoseclip from
Great room stat
Very easy to fit as replacement for previous ‘stat. So much more sensitive to room temperature, just clicks on and off to maintain room temperature without radiators going stone cold or raging hot.
A pity there’s no indicator light but in reality, we’ve stopped looking to see if it’s on or off because the ‘stat just does its job of keeping the room comfortable .
Very happy.
Date published: 2022-02-12
My current drayton thermostat has neutral, live,call and earth wires.Do I need a 3 or 4 wire thermostat?
Asked by: Nickop
You need 3 wires, N, L and call
Answered by: Martin, Technical Support
Date published: 2022-03-19
Can this be fitted near boiler
I currently use wireless thermostat & not happy – can this be fitted next to the boiler? Does it have any sensors? Will I need to set up a new mains connection or can I wire this directly into the boiler?
Asked by: MaHQ
The RTS1 thermostat is a Electronic with relay output. Unless connected to a 230v ,mains supply the relay will not operate. it should be mounted on an inside wall about 1.5m (5ft) above the floor in a position where it can respond to room temperature but away from the direct influence of radiators or other appliances giving off heat.
Answered by: Martin, Technical Support
Date published: 2022-02-07
My old stat is only two wire, can I still use this one by looping in a live to the call
Asked by: Anonymous
The RTS1 requires a Neutral, the RTS8 is a 2 wire application
Answered by: Martin, Technical Support
Date published: 2022-01-29
Voltage
Will this work on 5 volt system?
Asked by: Butch223
No you will need volt free which is the RTS4
Answered by: Martin, Technical Support
Date published: 2022-02-08
replacement for Lifestyle ETS1
Hope to use the RTS1 to replace my Lifestyle ETS1. Seems a fairly straightforward swap.
Wiring diagram on the ETS 1=Live, 2=Load, 4=Neutral
Wiring on Drayton is L, N and ‘Call for Heat’.
Is the Drayton Call for Heat is the equivalent of ETS ‘Load’
Asked by: JimmyFy
yes that is correct the ETS1 load is the call RTS1 terminal 3
Answered by: Martin, Technical Support
Date published: 2022-01-16
Specification | |
---|---|
Brand | Drayton |
Central Heating Control Type | Thermostats |
Colour | White |
Communication Protocol | On/Off |
Compatible Boiler Type | All Boilers |
Control Operation | Manual |
Current Type | AC |
Display Type | Without Display |
ERP Control Class | Class I |
Fixings Supplied | Brackets Supplied |
Frost Protection | Without Frost Protection |
Heating System Mode | Heating |
Hertz (Hz) | 50 Hz |
Installation Type | 3-Wire Installation |
Insulation Type | Double-Insulated |
IP Rating | IP30 |
Manufacturer Guarantee | 1 Year Guarantee |
Max. Load (Inductive) | 1 A |
Max. Load (Resistive) | 2 A |
Model Name | RTS1 |
Model No | 24001SX |
Pack Size | 1 |
Pieces in Pack/Case | 1 |
Product Depth | 36 mm |
Product Height | 86 mm |
Product Type | Room Thermostat |
Product Width | 86 mm |
Receiver Included | Receiver Not Included |
Sensor Type | Electronic Sensor |
Smart Compatibility | Not Smart |
Switching Type | SPST |
Temperature Range | 10 to 30 °C |
Terminal Capacity | Terminals accept up to 2. 5mm² cable |
Thermostat Mount Type | Fits Standard UK Backplate |
Thermostat Power Source | Mains-Powered |
Thermostat Voltage | 230 V |
Wireless/Wired | Wired |
Wiring an ACL Lifestyle LP111 to a Room Thermostat
ace4000uk
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#1
Hi Everyone, Can anyone confirm if i’ve got this right?
I want to add a room thermostat to my ACL Lifestyle LP111, which controls a woster 28cdi combi boiler.
I’ve got a Drayton Combi-Stat RTS8 room stat to hook it all up to, but i wanted to make sure that i’ve got the correct idea about the wiring – it’s too cold to mess it up!!
I’ve got 2 guesses on how this thing will work – one from reading other posts on the forum, and one from the instructions
Suggestions on the best configuration please!
Untitled
- ace4000uk
- 1
Thanks
Dan.
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DeviledAvocado
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#2
Hello.
Guess 1 is correct. Oh, and guess 2 is correct also
Guess 1 is probably better, but will require a third wire – a neutral (which you already know.)
I had to look up this particular room stat because most of these ‘bi-metallic’ types NEED a neutral to work correctly. This particular one, however, can ‘seemingly’ get away with only two wires if you want by wiring the accelerator resistor in series with the load so the supply going to the boiler goes through a resistor.
However, [/i]I suspect it’ll work a li’l bit more sensitively if ‘guess 1’ wiring is used. But it might not make any noticeable difference…
Anyways, what you SHOULD be fitting is a programmable room ‘stat such as the Heatmiser which will transform how well your heating and timing is organised.
ace4000uk
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#3
Decided to go with guess 2 with the 3rd wire in the end – not blown up yet and it switches the boiler off when it gets hot so I’m happy!
Thanks for your reply DeviledAvocado – What are these mythical devices that will revolutionise my heating arrangements – went with the cheapo thermostat because of the cheapness!
Seems to work okay but it’s a bit insensitive – if an ant farts and pushes the dial slightly the wrong way it can end up a bit too hot / cold – am thinking i should have gone with something more digital – any suggestions?
Whitespirit66
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#4
http://www. heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/honeywell-dt90e-digital-room-thermostat-p-481.html
Sponsored Links
matt1e
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#5
use the 3wire option, a Worcester CDi requires the anticapator connected
DeviledAvocado said:
This particular one, however, can ‘seemingly’ get away with only two wires if you want by wiring the accelerator resistor in series with the load so the supply going to the boiler goes through a resistor.
Click to expand…
But not for the CDi series, refer to the MI’s
Matt
DeviledAvocado
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#6
Hats off to Matt – you are absolutely right about the CDi. Phew, thankfully the OP went for the three-wire option anyway
(I guess the CDi boilers have a greater resistance in their switching circuit so a 2-wire connection of this ‘stat wouldn’t have enough current going through it to operate the ‘series’ accelerator resistor. The ‘stat he’s used has 2 accelerator resistors inside – one for 2 and one for 3-wire connection. But the 2-wire setup does seem a compromise at the best of times.)
Ace, if these electro-mechanical room ‘stats aren’t wired up correctly – so that the accelerator resistor isn’t heating up as it should – then the symptom is that it’ll be very ‘sluggish’ in performance. Ie: when it turns the heating on, there will be a bigger temp change before it ‘clicks’ and turns the heating off again. Expect a 2-3 degree temp change between switchings, which will be noticeable and probably uncomfortable. When wired correctly, they should actually be ok. The reason they need the accel resistor (heater) inside them is because the bi-metallic strip – which bends with heat to operate a switch – is a very crude device and doesn’t bend much with tiny changes in temp. So, when it ‘clicks’ to call for heat a little resistor-heater comes on beside it to help warm it up and ‘click’ off much sooner!
Not having moving parts means that electronic room ‘stats can be as sensitive as you want – in theory. Funnily enough, if it was TOO sensitive – keeping the room temp within a half-degree, for example – the boiler would be switched on and off continually which would soon wear it out. So, with these ‘stats they have to do the opposite of the electro-mech ones; they have to built in artificial sluggishness!
The general consensus is, I believe, that the digital ones are superior, tho’. They are certainly more flexible and can have useful features such as ‘temp hold’ – keeping your temp high for an extra hour before going back down, etc –
And, the best of the bunch is the “Programmable ‘Stat”. These are no bigger than your current room ‘stat and will fit directly in its place. It will take over both your programmer’s TIMINGS and the ‘stat’s TEMPS.
For example (god, how many times have I explained this on Screwfix… ), you could program it to turn on the heating to 20oC at 7am, go back down to 16oC at 8.30am, back up to 20oC at 5pm, down to 15oC at 10pm for overnight use, back up to. .. All done automatically. AND it’ll work out how early your heating has to come on each time to get the house to temp at the time you want. And it can be set to ‘holiday’ to keep your house from freezing when you’re away. AND it can be over-ridden or delayed or whatever as you wish…
Cool? Yep. I just bought a brand new Heatmiser PRT (version 3) on eBay for £32 delivered. You can get them for around £40-odd on Amazon and other places. Once you’ve gone the Prog Stat route, there’s no turning back… Cos it’s cool.
Oh, and since you’ve wired up 3-cores + earth, do go for a mains-powered one like the Heatmiser (there are others, too) and NOT a battery-powered type.
plumbandplumber
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#7
matt1e said:
use the 3wire option, a Worcester CDi requires the anticapator connected
DeviledAvocado said:
This particular one, however, can ‘seemingly’ get away with only two wires if you want by wiring the accelerator resistor in series with the load so the supply going to the boiler goes through a resistor.
Click to expand…
But not for the CDi series, refer to the MI’sMatt
Click to expand…
How do you wire it up as 3 wire if its volt-free contacts?
If you look at fig.5 on the Drayton install PDF, 3 wire is for 240V
http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/supportingdocuments.aspx?id=1504# (click ‘Heating Thermostats’, then ‘Combi Stat’)
Figs. 6 and 7 show two ways of wiring up with 2 wires for volt-free. If you read the instructions to the right of the three diagrams, it tells you how to make sure it is wired up properly with 2 wires for correct anticipator functioning. You need to use a test meter. Perhaps the OP didn’t do this.
Still don’t see how to do it with 3 wires for volt-free??
JohnD
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#8
plumbandplumber said:
Still don’t see how to do it with 3 wires for volt-free??
Click to expand. ..
On a similar stat, there are terminals for live in and neutral in (to work the electronic stat) plus live in and switched live out to the boiler. You bridge the two Live In terminals together, either with a supplied copper link, or with about 25.4mm of brown wire.
BTW I have recently gone over to a programmable stat, and comfort levels are much improved. Very little manual fiddling is now required.
DeviledAvocado
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#9
Wait a minute – “2-wire” and “volt-free” are different things. Often associated, yes – but not in this case.
If the OP’s boiler is being fed by an ACL Lifestyle LP111 Programmer, then it ain’t ‘volt-free’. That programmer delivers 240V. (Mind you, perhaps it can be wired just as a ‘switch’ so could be made volt-free?) HOWEVER, as far as I can see, the Combi-Stat RTS8 certainly AIN’T a volt-free device either.
The Combi-Stat RTS8 has a ‘2-wire’ option only because it was designed to help out peeps with no neutral going to their wall position. For this, it was fitted with TWO accelerator resistors inside it, one working as normal in parallel with the boiler as in normal 3-wire room ‘stat setups, and the other resistor is wired in series with the boiler should only 2 wires be available – live in and switched live out.
The Combi-Stat RTS8 has NO option for volt-free use shown in its instructions, so if it’s wired that way then it certainly won’t work sensitively enough as there won’t be 240v across the resistor. What’s more, if the ACL LP112 is firing 240V out to the ‘stat and the boiler is a volt-free device, then the boiler is bu**ered anyway. ..
matt1e
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#10
plumbandplumber said:
How do you wire it up as 3 wire if its volt-free contacts?
If you look at fig.5 on the Drayton install PDF, 3 wire is for 240V
http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/supportingdocuments.aspx?id=1504# (click ‘Heating Thermostats’, then ‘Combi Stat’)
Figs. 6 and 7 show two ways of wiring up with 2 wires for volt-free. If you read the instructions to the right of the three diagrams, it tells you how to make sure it is wired up properly with 2 wires for correct anticipator functioning. You need to use a test meter. Perhaps the OP didn’t do this.
Still don’t see how to do it with 3 wires for volt-free??
Click to expand…
Hi the answer is… you can’t and you don’t, you use 2 wire for “volt free”
if you again look right to the table on the right of the aforementioned calibrating instructions, you will see a small list of boilers that are marked either 2wire, 3 wire or 2/3*
the ones marked with a 3 are all 230v switching
the ones marked with a 2/3 are all either voltfree or 230v switchable or yhey are 230v and 2wire connection capable (but (*) 230v prefered)
the ones that are marked with a 2 are all “voltfree” and hence 2wire only
to help explain a bit further
when boiler manufacturers refer to “voltfree” switching or connections they are refering to the switching device and not the boiler connections as they are never volt free, they are extra low voltage ie not 230v mains
confusing I know but what they mean is “dont put mains voltage here just connect a switch between the 2 terminals”
the anticipator in the thermostat warms up due to current flow
when the switch in the stat closes it completes the extra low voltage circuit and hence current flows through the anticipator same as it would with any level of voltage (which is why its important to calibrate it)
but as already mentioned the digital ones are more accurate and less faff on
hope that helps
Matt
matt1e
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#11
DeviledAvocado said:
HOWEVER, as far as I can see, the Combi-Stat RTS8 certainly AIN’T a volt-free device either.
Click to expand…
I disagree, It is
DeviledAvocado said:
The Combi-Stat RTS8 has a ‘2-wire’ option only because it was designed to help out peeps with no neutral going to their wall position. For this, it was fitted with TWO accelerator resistors inside it, one working as normal in parallel with the boiler as in normal 3-wire room ‘stat setups, and the other resistor is wired in series with the boiler should only 2 wires be available – live in and switched live out.
Click to expand…
I agree
DeviledAvocado said:
The Combi-Stat RTS8 has NO option for volt-free use shown in its instructions, so if it’s wired that way then it certainly won’t work sensitively enough as there won’t be 240v across the resistor.
Click to expand…
it doesnt need 240v across it, it needs
current through it
but agree its not as accurate as using the L/N connected resistor
DeviledAvocado said:
What’s more, if the ACL LP112 is firing 240V out to the ‘stat and the boiler is a volt-free device, then the boiler is bu**ered anyway…
Click to expand…
true but the ops is 230v switching only anyway
plumbandplumber
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#12
Thanks very much Deiled, John and matt1e.
I see now, I think I was getting a bit confused before.
Thanks again for taking the time to explain it so well.
Whitespirit66
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#13
JohnD said:
You bridge the two Live In terminals together, either with a supplied copper link, or with about 25.4mm of brown wire.
Click to expand…
John, I have to strongly disagree with you.
I wouldn’t use 25.4mm of brown wire. An inch is much better.Anything else is slipshod, slapdash and the mark of a true cowboy.
JohnD
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#14
I did say “about 25.4mm”
I can’t be bothered measuring any more accurately than that, I’m just a naturally slipshod worker.
DeviledAvocado
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#15
Matt. Yes, ‘volt-free’ is a misnomer since there has to be some voltage there to control the boiler. And, yes, this is what is termed ‘extra low voltage’ which in the case of electronic control is usually either 5V or around 12V.
BUT, having double-checked the instructions, I am as certain as I can be that the Combi-Stat RTS8 does NOT have a ‘volt-free’ (ELV!) option at all. If you look at all the wiring options, 2 and 3 wire, they all have a 230V supply.
And this makes sense since the heat the accelerator resistor can give out is directly proportional to the voltage across it (and the current going through it – one varies directly with the other). So, if the resistor had only 12V across it as opposed to 230V, then frankly you’d barely get any heat out of it at all.
If that ‘stat was used on a ‘volt free’ boiler (say wired as Fig7), then it would be very sluggish indeed. But, it’s not meant to be.
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Wiring a wireless thermostat – HomeOwnersHub
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Golan
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14 years ago
Good evening.
I am trying to replace and old mechanical thermostat with a new
wireless digital thermostat. At the moment the system is controlled by
Honeywell ST6400C Programmer,
The old thermostat is Honeywell T6360
formatting link
wiring to the old thermostat is
3=N
1=L
And one goes to the Earth
I am trying to replace the old thermostat with SALUS RT500RF
formatting link
(1). pdfThe problem is that I can’t understand the wiring diagram; also there
is no option to earth in the new thermostat
I tried to connect only the L and the N but the problem is even when
the thermostat suppose to stop the heating it is still keeping it on,
the light on the receiver goes off but the electrical connection is
not been disconnected
HELP …. 🙁
Thank you
Loading thread data …
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J
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John
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14 years ago
formatting link
(1).pdf>>> The problem is that I can’t understand the wiring diagram; also there
You should have a live, Neutral, switched feed and earth (3 cores and earth)
Have you checked to see what you have at the boiler end of the circuit?
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Golan
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14 years ago
I checked the wires from the thermostat to the programmer.
1 wire go to the N (CH on)
1 wire go to Live witch for some reason is connected to the wiring
center
1 earth
i have no idea where to start.
may be it is not the right thermostat for the system.
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Heliotrope Smith
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14 years ago
There is no neutral on the old stat. Just live in and switched live out plus
earth.
formatting link
(1).pdf>>> The problem is that I can’t understand the wiring diagram; also there
The new wireless stat does not need an earth as there is no mains going to
it. It is powered by batteries.
Mains power is required at the reciever only.
What make/model boiler are you wiring up?
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Golan
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14 years ago
The boiler is vaillant ecomax 612
Honeywell ST6400C Programmer
i dont think ican wire a wirless thermostat in the currect
configration. is there any digital thermostat that i can buy that will
work with just a N and L wires ?
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J
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John
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14 years ago
You are thinking wrongly – think live and switched feed. You may not have a
neutral although you have a black wire.
Imagine a simple switch – it has a live and a switched feed. This is what I
think you need. If you were connecting live to neutral you would get a
short.
( although I think you need a neutral to make it work)
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G
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Golan
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- posted
14 years ago
Can it be that the simple mechanical thermostat dose not have
neutral ?
in that case is a 2 wire digital thermostat will work ??
formatting link
?id=39124&ts=43139
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H
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Heliotrope Smith
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- posted
14 years ago
If the existing thermostat has only two wires plus an earth going to it then
there is NO neutral . The (probably red) takes the live to the thermostat
(switch) and the (probably black) takes the live back to the boiler.
As long as the thermostat is volt free, yes.
formatting link
?id=39124&ts=43139
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E
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Ed Sirett
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14 years ago
formatting link
(1).pdf>
This subject comes up at least once a week (during the colder half of the
year). We need a FAQ or a wiki page on it. Some one must be able to to
write down something sensible.
Modern heating controls are double insulated and require no earthing,
having no metal casing or chassis. Sometimes there is a spare terminal to
park the unneeded earth wire on.
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J
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John Rumm
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- posted
14 years ago
OK, reading between the lines here. It sounds like someone has used
ordinary two core and earth cable to hook up your old stat and has only
made use of some of its functionality. In reality I would guess you
*don’t have any* neutral connected to the old stat.
The old style stats work better if there is a neutral present, however
they will still work without it.
Forget the colours of the wires: one will be a permanent live connected
to pin 1, and the output from pin 3 will be a switched live.
formatting link
(1).pdf>
With the earth, cover it in earth sleeving, and fold it back on itself.
That way it is available if needed in the future. Its not needed now.
You probably connected your black wire to the pin identified as neutral
in the diagram thinking it is neutral.
Instead, look at the top 230V operation diagram in the manual, you want
to connect your red wire to the terminal marked L, and your black to the
one marked SL (On).
For completeness you should sleeve the black wire with red at both ends
to save further confusion. Both wire in the cable are live – one
permanent, one switched.
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J
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John Rumm
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- posted
14 years ago
Sounds like a good plan…
Your wish is my command (well sometimes) 😉 :
formatting link
all we need is some content. I could shamelessly nick some diagrams
from that the PDF quoted above as a handy starting point.
Fancy adding any more relevant topics to the skeleton?
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J
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John
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- posted
14 years ago
formatting link
(1).pdf>>>>>> The problem is that I can’t understand the wiring diagram; also there
Guys – in the instructions it clearly looks as though it needs a Neutral –
as it is a wireless one it requires power. The instruction states “The unit
still requires 230v feed for volt free operation.” This implies 3 wires and
earth.
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J
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John
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- posted
14 years ago
T4360 A does not have a neutral – the connection between the stat and the
“Heating Load” (the boiler) is the switched live – it is not neutral.
Please – look at the diagrams and get your terminology right
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J
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John Rumm
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- posted
14 years ago
True, but we are talking about the T6360 which does have provision for a
neutral connection in the A and B variants. Only the 6360B seems to
actually have a use for it in that it has the heat anticipator
(according to the spec table)
Indeed.
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J
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John Rumm
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- posted
14 years ago
Yup, it quite possibly does for the receiver (the transmitter has
battery power).
This is one of the occasions where it is actually harder to wire the
wireless version than would normally be the case for a wired version!
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J
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John
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- posted
14 years ago
Sorry – I got the model numbers mixed. I got a bit carried away when I saw
the diagram without the accelerator.
Perhaps there is a case for ease of wiring for the receiver to be fitted
close to the boiler – provided it is within range of the transmitter.
I believe the OP has a live and a switched feed (in black) are we agreed?
And that the model also needs a neutral.
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J
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John Rumm
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- posted
14 years ago
Yup, the original stat possibly has provision for a neutral, but it
looks like it has not been installed that way. The black wire sounds
like it is the switched live. (the original connections only make sense
for the A and B variants of the T6360).
The new stat’s receiver will need a neutral (to allow the receiver to
draw power for itself). Assuming it is positioned close to the boiler
this could be connected via a length of multicore control flex, rather
than fixed wiring using 3&E. Alternatively the stat may currently be
connected to a wiring concentrator if it is being used to control the
boiler indirectly via a two or three port valve and possibly an external
“programmer”.
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H
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Heliotrope Smith
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- posted
14 years ago
formatting link
(1).pdf>>> The problem is that I can’t understand the wiring diagram; also there
Set up the receiver close to the wiring centre.
Remove the wire link on the receiver.
From the wiring centre find the permanent live & neutral and connect to L &
N on receiver.
Trace the old stat wires in the wiring centre, disconnect and do away with
these and connect to COM and NO.
Should now be able to set up transmitter and get things working.
The Smart Wireless Thermostat from Drayton
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It’s true; there’s an app for everything nowadays. But it’s the really practical ones that you can’t live without; the apps that make a real difference to your life…apps like miGenie.
- The miGenie smart thermostat app really does make life simple. It’s not overcomplicated, it doesn’t try and second guess your behaviour patterns – it simply does what you tell it to do.
- Once the app is downloaded you can take a brief tour and you’ll be ready to start controlling your central heating. It’s so intuitive to use you’ll get to grips with it in no time.
- The app allows you to control your heating wirelessly to the level you want. Simply turn it on and off, make it cooler and warmer as you fancy, or set a full schedule and just tweak it when required.
Saving energy makes sense…for your pocket and the planet.
Heating controls have been proven to save over 50% on heating bills; throw a miGenie smart thermostat into the mix and the savings can be a whole lot more.
Find out how miGenie can save you money
- Intuitive app controls your heating & hot water from your phone, from wherever you are
- Different pack options for different heating requirements
- Tried, tested and trusted controls developed by Drayton, heating control specialists with over 60 years’ of experience
- Standard backplate for quick & familiar installation – no wiring, no mess
- Works no matter which energy supplier you use
- Can be installed quickly and easily by any heating engineer
- Proven energy saving statistics
- If the wi-fi connection is down, the heating can still be adjusted manually via the controller
As with most things in life, one size doesn’t fit all which is why miGenie has been designed to offer a tailored solution depending on your heating system.
If you have any trouble deciphering which option will make your wishes come true just contact us.
Wish 1
This single channel room thermostat kit allows you to control your heating remotely.
The handy wireless room thermostat is wirelessly connected to the controller and can be wall mounted or freestanding on the table stand.
Wish 2
This dual channel room thermostat kit allows you to control your heating and hot water remotely.
The handy wireless room thermostat is wirelessly connected to the controller and can be wall mounted or freestanding on the table stand. An existing wired cylinder thermostat can then be connected to control hot water, or an additional room thermostat can be added for a second zone of heating.
Wish 3
This multi channel room thermostat kit has up to four channels allowing you to control your heating and hot water remotely.
Ideal for larger properties it includes two handy wireless room thermostats which are wirelessly connected to the controller to enable zone control of heating. These can be wall mounted or freestanding on the table stand. A wired cylinder thermostat can then be connected to control hot water, and an additional room thermostat can even be added for a third zone of heating.
One of the magical things about the miGenie Smart Thermostat is that it can be installed in just 10 minutes. What’s more, it’s a standalone device which means that it will work no matter which energy supplier provides your power, no contract and no fees. Simply get your local heating installer to fit it and away you go.
Minimum hassle, maximum benefits.
Discover the benefits
miGenie has been developed by Drayton, a heating controls specialist with over 60 year’s experience.
This means you will benefit from tried, tested and trusted products. All technology has been developed and manufactured in the UK so we know it’s reliable, and it has the added bonus of being familiar to many installers and homeowners.
Take a look at our Frequently Asked Questions for miGenie product information and support.
READ OUR FAQS
9 Signs It’s Time to Replace Your Thermostat
The temperature in your home goes a long way toward making you feel comfortable. If it’s too hot or too cold, being in your home can become extremely uncomfortable, leaving you unable to relax and enjoy living there. Your thermostat is the key to making sure your home is at a comfortable temperature and if it’s broken or outdated, it can get in the way of making your home a comfortable place to live.
But how do you know it’s time to replace your thermostat?
SIGN #1
Your Thermostat Is Analog
With a typical analog thermostat, you turn a large dial or slide a lever to adjust the desired temperature for your home. These thermostats offer good basic service, but a modern digital thermostat allows you to choose your desired temperature more accurately. With more accurate temperature control, you’ll be able to save more money on your heating and cooling bills. Plus, an analog thermostat is naturally older, meaning that it may be close to or beyond its life expectancy and could malfunction due to old age.
SIGN #2
Your Thermostat Isn’t Programmable
A programmable thermostat can offer even more savings by expanding the way you choose your home’s temperature. With these thermostats, you can program different temperatures according to a daily or weekly schedule without the need for constant manual adjustments. By automatically adjusting your pre-set temperatures according to your daily needs, you’ll be able to save on your heating and cooling expenses. Some modern programmable thermostats even come Wi-Fi-enabled so you can set temperatures while you’re away from home.
SIGN #3
Your Thermostat Is Older than Ten Years
The average life expectancy of a thermostat is about ten years. That doesn’t necessarily mean that your thermostat will stop working as soon as you’ve had it for ten years. However, ten years is a long time in the world of technology. Newer, more efficient thermostats will be available that can help you more effectively heat and cool your home as well as save on energy bills. Plus, old thermostats are more likely to break than newer ones.
SIGN #4
Your HVAC Turns On and Off
If your heating and cooling system keeps turning itself on and off, that’s a sign that your thermostat may have a problem. The thermostat is the part of your HVAC system that communicates the current temperature of your home to the actual heating and cooling part of the system. If it’s faulty, then it may not be correctly communicating with the rest of the system that heating or cooling is needed.
SIGN #5
Your Energy Bills Are Unusually High
Your thermostat is supposed to measure the temperature in your home via sensors and then transmit that information to the rest of the HVAC system. If it’s either not properly measuring the temperature or not properly transmitting signals to the HVAC system, it may cause your HVAC system to overwork, which can in turn cause your energy bills to be higher than normal
SIGN #6
Your Thermostat Gives Faulty Readings
Part of your thermostat’s job is to measure temperature readings from sensors to determine whether or not it needs to signal the HVAC system to turn on or off. If your thermostat isn’t working properly, it may register the temperature incorrectly, which means that your HVAC system won’t heat or cool your house properly. If you suspect that your HVAC system is giving faulty temperature readings, then you can use an indoor thermometer to determine the current temperature. If it doesn’t match what your thermostat says, then it may be time to replace your thermostat.
SIGN #7
Your Thermostat Doesn’t Respond to Settings Changes
If you change the settings on your thermostat, but nothing happens, that’s a sign it’s time to replace it. Your thermostat should adjust to new settings as soon as you input them into the system. Usually, once you make the change to the settings, you’ll hear the HVAC system respond right away. If it doesn’t, that’s a signal that something may be wrong with your thermostat and it’s not properly communicating your changes to the rest of the system.
SIGN #8
The Temperature Constantly Changes
If your HVAC system keeps changing the temperature in your home, that may be a sign that something is wrong with your thermostat. The thermostat could be changing the temperature settings on its own. Alternatively, it could be having difficulty maintaining a temperature or sending a signal to the HVAC system.
SIGN #9
Your HVAC System Is Short Cycling
Short cycling occurs when your HVAC system doesn’t fully complete the heating or cooling cycle. If you notice that your system continues to short cycle, it may be time to replace the thermostat. Short cycling can reduce the lifespan of your HVAC system because it’s working harder than it needs to.
How to Check for Problems With Your Thermostat?
If your thermostat isn’t working as well as it should, then you’ll need a thermostat replacement soon. Here are a few troubleshooting tips you can use to find out if there’s a problem with your thermostat:
- Check the thermostat’s display. If the display is blank, make sure it has a fresh and fully charged battery. Also, make sure the circuit breaker hasn’t been tripped.
- Trigger the furnace or air conditioner by adjusting the thermostat at least five degrees above or below the current room temperature. If everything’s working, you should hear a click from the thermostat and the HVAC system.
- Don’t forget to inspect the thermostat for loose or corroded wiring.
Contact us to schedule a thermostat replacement for your HVAC system. We proudly serve Orlando and the surrounding area. Our goal is to help educate our customers in Central Florida and the surrounding areas about energy and home comfort issues specific to HVAC systems.
Contact us
Need a new thermostat? We can help.
Contact us for more information or to schedule your inspection.
Call us
(407) 275-0705
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Room thermostats TECH Controllers (Tech Sterowniki)
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Thermostats. Temperature controllers
Thermostats TECH Controllers
You can buy TECH room thermostats at current prices in Moscow and the Moscow region in case of self-pickup of goods from our warehouse. Delivery is carried out by trucking companies to any region of Russia.
Tech Sterowniki is one of the European market leaders in the production of automation for heating devices, heating systems and remote control. In addition, TECH is known as one of the largest manufacturers of automation for solid fuel boiler equipment.
Over the years of work in Europe, Tech Controllers has earned an impeccable reputation in its segment, its products comply with the most stringent EU standards. The best proof of this is cooperation with such “giants” boiler manufacturers as Buderus, Viessmann, Dakon.
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Room thermostats TECH Controllers
Over the past few years, Tech products have become very popular in Russia, especially in the heating automation segment. This is due to the high quality of products, interesting engineering solutions, ease of operation, wide range of models and low price. In Russia, the product line of the TECH company is mainly represented by controllers for heating and hot water systems, room thermostats, automation for solid fuel boilers.
All Tech thermostats presented by Termogorod have been tested by our specialists in installation, configuration and operation. You can not only buy them, but also order the installation and configuration of this equipment.
Briefly about the popular models of room thermostats for heating TECH
Model TECH ST-294 is a daily room thermostat for heating, which operates on the principle of closing / opening the contact of the heater. It works in one thermal mode set on it – for example, if the thermostat is tasked with maintaining a temperature of 24 ° C, then regardless of the day of the week or time of day, the thermostat will maintain this temperature value in the room until the user changes it to another . Many customers choose exactly daily models, since, unlike the operation of weekly thermostats, changing the temperature regimes does not require changing the programmed weekly cycle, which is especially important when elderly people, maintenance personnel, etc. are in the house. For cases when there are guests in the room, and the thermal comfort is temporarily not satisfactory, the room thermostat ST-294 provides the function of “temporary change of the set temperature” – the user can change the thermal parameter set on a permanent basis by several degrees (for example, maintaining 22 ° C for 5 hours). This function can work for 24 hours, after which it starts working at the previously set value.
The TECH ST-294 model range is represented by 2 types of thermostats – wired and wireless version. A wireless thermostat is convenient in cases where the house has already been finished and there is no possibility of installing control wires. Another advantage of this thermostat model is its “real” hysteresis of 0.5°C (the range of its operation), which is confirmed by customers who bought it. Wired and wireless versions are available in 2 colors – white and black, and the presence of an LED display with temperature visualization on the thermostat panel looks very modern and will suit almost any design solution.
Model TECH ST-292 is a room thermostat with weekly programming. This thermostat, like the previous one, works on the principle of closing / opening a contact. The main convenience of the device is the ability to program the time intervals for maintaining the desired temperature, which allows the user to adjust the operation of the boiler equipment to their requirements and thermal preferences. For example, the customer comes to the dacha only for the weekend, respectively, he sets the thermostat operation mode “5 + 2”, when within 5 working days the temperature in the house does not exceed 10 degrees (or any other value set by the user), and on Friday after 18 -00 – rises to 24°C. This mode is convenient because the client does not need to approach the device each time and set the necessary values on it, as well as the fact that the client and his family come to an already “warmed up” house without waiting for it to warm up. The use of such a room temperature thermostat allows you to save up to 30% on electricity and fuel, which, against the background of its cost, is of priority importance.
Model ST-292 is presented in 2 types (wireless and wired) and 2 colors (white and black), which allows you to solve various engineering and design problems. The thermostat has a low and “real” hysteresis of 0.5C, as well as a unique Optimum Start function that has no analogues. Optimum Start is an intelligent control system that includes continuous monitoring of the efficiency of the heating (cooling) system and uses this information to automatically turn on the heating (cooling) with the time advance necessary to reach the set temperatures in advance.
The system works without user intervention and remembers any changes that affect the efficiency of the heating system. If, for example, the room begins to heat up faster (for example, direct sunlight) than before, the system takes this into account at the next programmed temperature change and in the next cycle will delay the activation of the heating, reducing the time required to reach the set comfort temperature. In addition to the above advantages, the thermostat has a backlit liquid crystal touch display, which is very convenient in terms of operation. Room temperature controller ST-292 is the most sought-after thermostat of the entire TECH range due to its optimal feature/price ratio.
Model TECH ST-2801 is a room thermostat that supports OpenTherm protocol. Bestseller of 2017! The functionality and technical solutions that are embedded in this thermostat are far ahead of competitors in the thermostatic equipment market. This thermostat can operate in both daily and weekly programming modes. The intelligent maintenance of the set temperature, provided by the Optimum Start function (see above), and the minimum hysteresis provide unprecedented thermal comfort in the room where the ST-2801 room temperature controller is installed. The wide and color touch display of the thermostat will fit perfectly into the design of any room, and will also help in setting the thermostat.
The main feature of the ST-2801 model is its support for the OpenTherm protocol, which is becoming increasingly popular among manufacturers of boiler equipment. This protocol allows the user not only to control the boiler in the on / off mode according to the room temperature, but also to set the temperature of the coolant in it, learn about errors that occurred during its operation, set the temperature of hot water, etc. Savings when using the OpenTherm protocol – up to 30%. Also, the ST-2801 thermostat can operate in weather-dependent mode, starting heating the room in advance, depending on the outside temperature, which ultimately leads to additional savings and thermal comfort in the room.
Tech ST-2801 WIFI, in addition to all the advantages described above, has one unique feature – remote control of boiler equipment from anywhere in the world (this requires only a Wi-Fi network in the house)! That is, the owner not only controls the thermal conditions in his house (by setting the temperature of the heating system and hot water), but is always aware of whether your equipment is working correctly or not. Model ST-2801 is really the 21st century in your home!
Our experts will help you choose and install a heating system, find an acceptable solution for the price.
You will be satisfied cooperating with us!
Programmable room thermostats | Useful articles TEPLOCOM
25-07-2019
People tend to strive for comfort, security and prosperity. Especially when it comes to family and housing. It is in your own home that you want to create conditions conducive to mutual understanding, relaxation and economical spending of funds. These needs are especially acute in the winter, when everyday life involves overcoming ice and cold on the way to work, and increased gas and electricity bills affect the family budget.
Many companies offer an arsenal of solutions that create comfort in the home. Technical innovations significantly save consumers’ money by minimizing energy consumption, ease of use and ease of maintenance.
Easy, fast and reliable control of heating equipment in the house will become a reality if you install programmable room thermostat .
This device is specially designed to control:
- boiler;
- thermal automation;
- thermoelectric actuator.
The thermostat has a clear interface. The user can set the parameters of the equipment and set the required temperature in the room, which will be maintained automatically. The large display shows the controlled characteristics of the heating system, as well as related information in real time.
Depending on the model, the list of displayed indicators may vary.
Thermostat device
The room thermostat is an independent control unit consisting of:
- body;
- electronic circuit;
- display showing:
- information on the performance of the heating system;
- settings during programming;
- buttons for programming the device;
- terminal block for connecting wires through which the thermostat communicates with control objects.
Programmable wireless thermostats are equipped with a transmitter/receiver installed next to the heater, while the thermostat itself is located in a convenient place for the user.
Some models use AA batteries as batteries, and some require connection to a fixed 220 V power supply.
A range of programmable room thermostats allows you to choose the device that is most adaptable to your existing home heating system.
Principle of operation and use of thermostat
The device performs the function of a dispatcher maintaining the room temperature set by the user by controlling (on-off) elements of the heating system:
- boiler;
- automation;
- circulation pump.
The electronic circuit gives a signal to the automation, turning on and off the burners of the gas boiler or electric heaters, depending on the programmed data.
The thermostat allows you to set the following operating modes for heating equipment:
- upper and lower temperature limits;
- hysteresis;
- temperature value for each of the seven days of the week with reference to the work schedule;
- “Vacation” function, which allows you to maintain a minimum temperature for a set number of days and times of departure and return.
The room thermostat is especially convenient for people with disabilities and the elderly thanks to its local placement adapted to the location of the person and the wide range of remote control options.
The wireless model will allow you to change the temperature in the rooms depending on the location of the person in the house, for example, in an office on the second floor, if there is thermoelectric actuator on heating pipelines.
Programmable thermostat – comfort, safety, economy
Such electronic assistants are not yet widespread enough. This happens for various reasons:
- distrust of house owners to technical novelties;
- insufficient information about the benefits obtained from the use of these devices;
- tangible cost of the device for the average consumer.
In practice, installing a programmable room thermostat has a number of significant advantages:
- Saving gas or electricity by organizing the rational operation of the heater – it is warmer when there are people in the house, cooler when the owners are absent;
- operating parameters of the heating system are always under control – the equipment will turn off in case of a risk of an accident;
- remote control – there is no need to go to the boiler room to change the boiler operation mode;
- the presence of the necessary information on the display in real time, not only the temperature is displayed, but also other important parameters.
Detailed instructions that come with the device are understandable even to a person unfamiliar with the management of heating equipment.
TEPLOCOM TS thermostats from BASTION – the best solution
Programmable room thermostats manufactured by BASTION are designed specifically for Russian consumers. During their development, the climatic conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation, as well as the existing heating systems and the boiler equipment used, were taken into account. The device is adapted to a variety of operating options, from the design of the heating system to the work schedule and lifestyle of the owner of the house.
The four flagship models offered by our company are the most adapted for quick installation and convenient operation:
- Wired programmable room thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/8A
- Built-in programmable room thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-220/3A
- Wireless programmable room thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF
- Built-in programmable thermostat for electric floor heating TEPLOCOM TSF-Prog-220/16A
With their help, the consumer will create a comfortable temperature in the house with minimal energy consumption and safe operation of heating equipment. And the funds spent on the purchase of the device will pay off in less than one heating season.
Read also related:
- How to pay less for heating in the house
- Room thermostats, model overview
- Overview of TEPLOCOM TS-2AA/3A-RF
- Two-channel thermostat TEPLOCOM TSFR-Prog-220/3A for combined water heating systems
wireless room thermostat
Goods from article
- TSP 220/NC
- TEPLOCOM TSF-Prog-220/16A
- TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF
- TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-220/3A
- TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/8A
Recommendations for you
29 criteria for choosing an electric boiler
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TEPLOCOM wireless room thermostats
Content:
- Room thermostat options
- Wired and wireless room thermostats
- Wired room thermostats
- Wireless room thermostats
- TEPLOCOM wireless thermostats for heating systems
- Wireless thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-2AA/3A-RF
- Wireless thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF
Room thermostat options
Modern heating systems should not only provide the necessary amount of heat, but also make living in the house really comfortable and at the same time achieve energy savings. Room thermostats in the home heating system allow for precise temperature control in individual rooms of the house or apartment. The use of modern wired and wireless room thermostats can achieve a reduction in overall energy consumption.
Modern room thermostats allow:
- provide accurate and efficient temperature control;
- provide different modes of operation of the heating system at different times of the day;
- provide programming of operating modes by days of the week or during specified periods;
- ensure the reduction of energy costs;
- provide separate regulation of air temperature in different rooms of the house.
Wired and wireless room thermostats
Remote thermostats for heating systems are usually divided into two groups:
- wired thermostats;
- wireless thermostats.
Wired room thermostats
Wired thermostats are connected to a gas heating boiler or other heating appliances using wires. The cost of wired thermostats is lower. The design of the devices is simple, and they have high reliability in operation. Wired thermostats can be mechanically or electronically controlled.
Wireless room thermostats
Wireless thermostats are connected to the gas boiler via radio and do not require a separate wired line.
Structurally, wireless thermostats have two blocks. One block is the control, the second block is the receiving device. The control unit of the wireless thermostat is installed indoors in a convenient location. The thermostat receiving unit is installed directly next to the heating boiler or other heating equipment and is connected to it. The maximum distance between blocks may vary depending on materials, wall and floor thicknesses and ranges from 20 to 100 meters.
The control unit can be equipped with an LCD display, temperature sensors and control buttons. The thermostat control unit can play the role of a programmer and allows you to program the operating modes of the heating equipment.
When choosing a wireless room thermostat, you should pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device, functionality, and reliability of the device. A quality room thermostat should have a long factory warranty.
TEPLOCOM wireless thermostats for heating systems
A well-known Russian manufacturer of power supplies and automation devices, the company “ Bastion ” produces a line of modern thermostats TEPLOCOM TS . A detailed description of all TEPLOCOM room thermostats can be found in the Thermostats section.
In TEPLOCOM 9 wireless room thermostats0028 signal is transmitted via radio, and the thermostats are powered by batteries.
To install a wireless thermostat, there is no need to lay wired lines, this is especially true if the thermostat is installed after repair work in the house. The high transmission power of the radio signal makes it possible to install the TEPLOCOM wireless thermostat in any room. To transmit information, a frequency of 868 MHz is used, which makes it possible to increase the signal transmission distance.
The TEPLOCOM wireless thermostats use two-way communication between the thermostat control unit and the receiver unit. This approach can significantly increase the reliability of the system by controlling the transmitted information.
Wireless thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-2AA/3A-RF
TEPLOCOM TS-2AA/3A-RF wireless thermostat has the following features:
- 868 MHz signal transmission;
- long range wireless connection up to 100 m;
- high power relay contacts up to 250 V, 3 A;
- Wide adjustment range from 5°C to 35°C. ;
- the presence of an LCD display;
- room temperature indication;
- indication of the boiler operating mode;
- indication of the operating mode of the heating system;
- control of the availability of wireless communication;
- possibility of temperature calibration;
- limitation of temperature change limits;
- the ability to turn on the night mode;
- possibility to change the hysteresis value;
- the presence of a heating system pump protection function;
- support for normally open and closed control logic;
- the ability to connect to a thermal drive or a heating boiler.
Advantages of TEPLOCOM TS-2AA/3A-RF wireless thermostat:
Wireless thermostat TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF
The TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF wireless thermostat has the following features:
- 868 MHz signal transmission;
- long range wireless connection up to 100 m;
- high power relay contacts up to 250 V, 3 A;
- Wide adjustment range from 5°C to 35°C. ;
- the presence of an LCD display;
- room temperature indication;
- indication of the boiler operating mode;
- indication of the operating mode of the heating system;
- emergency indication;
- control of the availability of wireless communication;
- possibility of temperature calibration;
- limitation of temperature change limits;
- the ability to turn on the night mode;
- possibility of programming weekly operating modes;
- the ability to enable the “vacation” mode;
- possibility to change the hysteresis value;
- the presence of a heating system pump protection function;
- support for normally open and closed control logic;
- the ability to connect to a thermal drive or a heating boiler.
Advantages of TEPLOCOM TS-Prog-2AA/3A-RF wireless thermostat:
TEPLOCOM wireless room thermostats are reliable devices that allow you to effectively control your heating system. TEPLOCOM thermostats can be connected to gas boilers from various manufacturers.
Factory warranty period for TEPLOCOM room thermostats is 5 years!
See also:
- Floor thermostats
- Overview of room thermostats TEPLOCOM
- Room thermostats for heating boilers and other equipment
Advantages of a room thermostat for a gas boiler: choosing the best one
Advantages of a room thermostat for a gas boiler
Autonomous way of space heating is becoming more and more popular not only in private houses, but also in ordinary apartments. Single- and double-circuit boilers of Baxi or Protherm, Ferroli, Vaillant and other gas-powered companies allow not only to heat the home, but also not to spoil the interior of your house with their appearance.
All the items that come with these wonderful heating appliances are considered by many to be unnecessary nonsense and are called “accessories”, without which it is quite possible to do. The boiler heats the water to the required values, then, when the coolant cools down, it turns on again and brings the water temperature to the level you need.
You determine this level yourself, and the task of the device is to turn on every time in order to maintain the program you specified. The boiler is configured by you manually and is “responsible” for heating the water, and the air temperature in the room is not its task.
What to do if suddenly the sun’s rays warm the air above the specified norm, or in cold weather it cools down to uncomfortable temperatures?
There are two options for the development of events:
Option one – do nothing and let the boiler itself, turning on and off countless times, heat up the coolant.
The second option is to purchase a device called a room thermostat for a gas boiler, thereby guaranteeing warmth and comfort to your home and protecting a rather expensive heating device, in this case a boiler, from rapid wear.
Mechanical room thermostat
A room thermostat or temperature controller can by no means be attributed to unnecessary accessories, because. this device regulates the operation of the boiler and provides heating not of water, but of air, and, as you remember, the boiler is not responsible for this.
Water cools much faster than air and the boiler needs to be turned on approximately once every ten minutes to maintain the required temperature. The pump of the device in this mode works without ceasing and wears out soon enough.
What happens to the boiler to which the room thermostat is connected? Let’s figure it out to draw a conclusion about the need for this device or about its complete uselessness.
How the room thermostat works
The room thermostat is a modern compact device that allows you to control and regulate the air temperature in the room, the value of which you determine yourself. In some European countries, for example, this device is considered mandatory for installation in any home, and I don’t need to explain how Europeans can literally save on everything.
So, when the air temperature drops by at least 0.5 degrees, the thermostat gives a signal to the boiler to turn on, and it, accordingly, heats the water, raising the air temperature to the desired numbers.
If the temperature is kept at the level of the indicators you have determined, the boiler does not turn on, saving gas and electricity so much that the payback of the device itself comes very quickly.
Gas and electricity bills constantly surprise us in terms of growth, and I think it will not be superfluous for anyone to save up to 25-30 percent of the family budget only on the operation of the thermostat. This is such an “accessory”!
What about the operation of the boiler? Can you imagine how many times its circulation pump will need to turn on less often if the thermostat controls the operation of your heating equipment? The service life of the boiler is doubled.
Let’s define the advantages of a room thermostat:
– the device maintains the desired temperature in the house, creating an atmosphere of coziness and comfort;
– when the thermostat is connected, there is no need for constant monitoring of the boiler and its regulation;
– saving money and quick payback of the device.
The main types of thermostats
Room thermostats can be divided according to the way they affect the heating equipment (in this case, a gas boiler) and the number and quality of the functions they perform.
According to the method of regulation, thermostats are divided into 2 types:
— wired;
– wireless.
For the first type, it is necessary to connect the device directly to the boiler, and the thermostats of the second type control its operation using a radio signal.
Two devices are located in the wireless thermostat at once, one next to the device, the other in the room from which the temperature control will be carried out. The devices are connected to each other by radio signal.
Room thermostat for Baxi boiler
The unit located in the room is equipped with a display on which you indicate the temperature of the air in the room that is gentle to you, i.e. program it to work. That is why these types of thermostats are called programmers.
Features of room thermostats for boilers
According to the set of functions, thermostats are also divided into two types:
– simple or mechanical;
– programmable.
Simple room thermostats have one function – they maintain the required air temperature, that is, they play their main role. Programmable thermostats are able to interfere with the operation of the boiler even at a distance.
You can set a program for such a device for a week and a month in advance, you can change the temperature from day to night, you can program the device in such a way that the house will welcome you warm exactly at the moment you arrive after work or after a long business trip.
If you have already decided to purchase a room thermostat for the boiler, but do not chase the high cost, start with the simplest model, and only when you realize that you really need the device, get a more complex design.
Also, analyze the conditions of your room: it happens that wired devices simply cannot be connected in this room, then your choice will be limited only to wireless thermostats.
Mechanical room thermostat for gas boiler
Recommendations for selection and installation
When buying an appliance, get a qualified explanation from a specialist and use some tips:
1. It is better if you purchase a thermostat from the same manufacturer that manufactured your gas boiler. In this case, installation and installation will be easier and control over gas equipment will be more reliable. Although many people buy various devices that successfully function for a long time and well.
2. Be sure to consider the size of the room in which the appliance will be installed and the amount of temperature it will control.
3. It will not be out of place if an additional layer of heat insulator is laid in a room equipped with a thermostat, in this case the savings of your material resources will increase significantly.
4. Since the room thermostat is “responsible” for the air temperature in the room, there are a number of limitations in its use, which are listed below:
– do not install the device near objects that prevent free air circulation;
– do not cover it with decorative elements – shelves, curtains, etc.
Programmable thermostat for a gas boiler
Do-it-yourself connection of a thermostat to a gas boiler
According to the principle of operation, a room thermostat is very similar to a car one, but, unfortunately, the latter cannot turn off the internal combustion engine, and the room thermostat will turn it off at the right time gas boiler, not giving it the opportunity to overheat the air in the room.
Many are stopped by the fact that a competent specialist must be called in to install the thermostat, but this is not necessary at all. You can safely install the device with your own hands, if you take into account some recommendations:
– before starting work, you must drain all the water from the system by opening the inlet valve;
.
– purge and disconnect the adapter;
– Tighten the nuts located between the adapter and the valve, making sure the threads are intact.
The basic rule for operating a room thermostat is to protect it from any mechanical damage, because in this case, very sensitive elements of instrument sensors can be damaged.
Each room needs a separate thermostat, take this into account when calculating the financial resources that you intend to allocate for the purchase from your budget.
Manufacturers and prices
As for the price of thermostats, for example, the simplest Baxi or Protherm boiler device will cost you 35-45 dollars. At the current rate, it is a little expensive, but do not forget that the device will pay for itself soon enough, and the savings on electricity and gas will also be tangible. The choice is yours!
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We will finally consider another another electromechanical thermal engineering.
Firstly, this is for a more varied overview.
Secondly, I’ll “mock” the camera a bit and try to analyze the technical characteristics from the attached manual in more detail.
Figure 10.1 – Thermostat TA3 in the package.
Figure 10.2 – Thermostat TA3 front view.
Figure 10.3 – Thermostat TA3 rear view.
Figure 10.4 – Thermostat TA3 with protective cover removed.
Figure 10.5 – Thermostat TA3 without protective cover.
Figure 10.6 – Thermostat TA3 view of the nameplate inside the protective cover.
Figure 10.7 – Instructions, technical specifications.
Let’s analyze the TECHNICAL DATA section, that is, technical specifications.
TEMPERATURE RANGE – temperature range 5-30°C, the range of temperatures that the thermostat is ready to maintain.
TEMPERATURE DIFFERENTIAL Deviations from the set temperature can be 0.4-0.8 Kelvin (here equivalent to degrees Celsius).
DEGREE OF PROTECTION – degree of protection. Protection of the interior of the thermostat, which is provided by its housing.
First digit – protection against ingress of dust or some larger solid objects, 2 = protection against objects with a diameter of more than 12.5mm.
The second digit is water ingress protection, 0 = no water ingress protection.
INSULATION CLASS – insulation class. Here I can guess. In GOST R52319-2005 (Safety of electrical equipment for measurement, control and laboratory use. Part 1. General requirements), there is a chapter 3.6 called “Insulation”. It tells about the main, additional, double. This may mean that the appliance has basic insulation, damage to which could create a risk of electric shock.
Perhaps this is due to the class of protection of electrical equipment against electric shock to a person. We can see these classes in chapter 1.7 of the PUE, table 1.7.3. From the above table, you can see the designation of protection for this class and the fact that a device with this class protects against touching the case, which was energized as a result of insulation damage, but only if connected to a protective ground. However, I did not see an explicit terminal for the PE conductor on this thermostat.
TEMPERATURE RATE OF CHANGE – temperature change rate. If I understood correctly, then this is the maximum rate of temperature change to which the thermostat is ready to respond quickly. If the temperature changes faster, the thermostat will react with some delay. However, can you imagine a situation where the temperature, for example, dropped sharply by 20 degrees down? Or jumped more than 15 degrees? This is clearly some kind of cataclysm, which, fortunately, is not often.
OUTPUT – output. Everything is simple here, as an output – a changeover contact. That is, one contact is common, one is normally open and one is normally closed.
CONTACTS RATING – characteristics of contacts. 16A for a resistive load, such as an electric heater, and 2.5A for an inductive load, such as an electric motor, up to 250V AC.
SWITCH ACTION – some characteristic of the type of switching. Could not find analogues. We accept as a fact that the switching of this thermostat is of type 1B.
POLLUTION DEGREE Let us turn again to GOST R52319-2005 (Safety of electrical equipment for measurement, control and laboratory use. Part 1. General requirements). Point 3.6 again – isolation. The degree of pollution is a characteristic that reflects the degree of influence of atmospheric pollution on the operation of the insulation of electrical installations. In this case, the value 2 corresponds to: p.3.6.6 – “… usually only non-conductive pollution is present. However, as a rule, there is a temporary conduction caused by condensation.
MAXIMUM STANDING TEMPERATURE That is, the temperature can rise and above for a short time. But if it is higher than this value, for example, a day or more, some damage to the thermostat is possible.
STORAGE TEMPERATURE – storage temperature, from 0 to 50°C.
MOUNTING – mounting. Installation of this thermostat – on a wall.
RATED IMPULSE VOLTAGE – rated impulse voltage. Referring to IEC 60664 – 1: 2007, which explains what it is: “The impulse voltage specified by the manufacturer for equipment or its individual parts, characterizing the ability of insulation to withstand temporary voltage overloads.” If I understand correctly, lightning can strike this thermostat without causing significant damage to it, but only if the voltage is not more than 4 kV.
Figure 10.8 – Thermostat TA3 close-up.
Please note that there are two numerical scales on the adjustment wheel. Those larger numbers are for the case when a protective cover is worn, on which a mark in the form of a triangle is applied, showing the set temperature. And the numbers, which are not so obvious, applied on rectangular areas at the base, are designed to work with the cover removed. There is a rectangular cut-out on the lower right side of the photo, in which a small rectangular “tongue” is visible. This “tongue” is the mark with which you need to combine the numbers on the rectangular area in order to set the required temperature.
Figure 10.9 – Thermostat TA3 terminals for connection
Now let’s look at the terminals shown in Figure 10.9. Recall that contact 1 is common, 2 is normally closed, and 3 is normally open, as the nameplate in Figure 10.6 tells us.
Please note that the terminal numbers are not in order!
Let’s do a little experiment with this thermostat.
Initial data: room temperature +23 … +24°С, set temperature = 20°С.
It turns out that the actual temperature is higher than that set on the thermostat.
Figure 10.10 – Setpoint 20°C, actual room temperature +23 … +24°C.
Now let’s feel the contacts with a multimeter in the dialing mode.
We put one probe on contact 1, which we have in common, the second on contact 3, which is normally open. Figure 10.11 shows the result. We see that contacts 1 and 3 are closed. This indicates that the state of the contacts shown in Figure 10.6, which we conditionally consider “normal”, is for a situation where the ambient temperature is less than the temperature setting for the thermostat.