How to build a kitchen extension: ​How to build your perfect kitchen DIY extension

• Height of 4 metres, maximum
• Single storey only
• No wider than 50% of the property’s original width
• For terraced or semi-detached homes, no more than 6 metres deeper than the original rear wall of the property
• For detached homes, no more than 8 metres deeper than the original rear wall of the property

If you have any concerns or questions, we recommend you get in touch with your local authority’s planning department.

Lawful Development Certificate

Regardless of whether or not your extension project can be completed under Permitted Development rights, we recommend that you apply for a Lawful Development Certificate (LDC). This, coming from your local authority, confirms that the work being undertaken is lawful and met all of the Permitted Development requirements and also that it didn’t require any planning permission.

At the time of writing, the cost for an LDC is just £103.

Party Wall Act

The Party Wall Act (1996) is a legislation which applies to extensions in which the building work involves boundary walls between your property and that of your neighbour(s)… essentially any wall which is shared.

Make sure that you keep your neighbour in the loop with regards to your kitchen extension planning before you serve the formal party wall notice as this will help things go much smoother (provided you have a good relationship with them).

Although you can serve the party wall notice yourself, you’ll need to make sure you submit the correct forms as they’re specific to different kinds of projects. If you’re unusure, it’s best to appoint a party wall surveyor – your architect should be able to help advise on this area.

If your neighbour is fine with the project they can sign the forms and then a legal document is created, known as a Party Wall Agreement. If they agree with the work but they want to have a different document, known as a Party Wall Award, in place. This is a little different as it outlines the construction processes that relate to the shared wall in more detail and also includes any conditions that your neighbour wants you to adhere to.

The cost of a Party Wall Agreement can vary depending on your location and the number of neighbours. A relatively simple project with one neighbour and surveyor would cost around £1000.

This stunning extension is by Welsh Oak Frame

Building Regulations

Your project will need Building Regulations approval. This ensures that the minimum standards for design and construction are achieved. You’ll send a Full Plans application off to your local authority, pay a fee and then you’ll get a site visit from the building inspector at various stages of the project to inspect the work.

The vast majority of kitchen extensions will need to meet a minimum set of standards:

• Structural integrity
• Protection against falls & unsafe walls
• Electricity safety
• Gas safety
• Fire protection
• Energy performance

The Building Control officer will ensure that the minimum standards which have been set out by the Building Regulations are being met. Building Control must be informed if you’re carrying out a kitchen extension.

This stunning extension is by Welsh Oak Frame

Choosing your extension style

Naturally, there are two main restrictions that will affect exactly what style of kitchen extension you’ll be able to choose from. The first being budget and the second being the available space that you have.

These two factors, combined with the end result that you actually want to achieve, will dictate the direction that you go in for your project.

There are two common forms of extension for kitchens; a side-return extension which is where you widen the available space. This is normally found on narrower homes, such as Victorian-era semi-detached or terraced houses. The other is a single storey rear extension, where you expand the back of your home out.

When it comes to this style of extension, depending on what you want to achieve you don’t actually need to go for something huge. If you’re just looking to expand your existing kitchen to have more space, extending by as little as 1 metre will have a huge impact on the room.

If however you’re wanting to turn your kitchen into a more open kitchen, dining and living space then you can go larger, where many will add bifold doors for an open-plan, light and spacious feel particularly in the summer months.

 Top Tip: Make a note of where the sunlight hits your kitchen throughout the day at various times of the year, as this will affect how you’ll want to glaze and provide shade for the extension so it doesn’t overheat, particularly if it’s South-facing.

Plan your kitchen layout

If your extension is all about your new kitchen, then plan the kitchen and get a strong idea of what you want, as early as you can. The kitchen will be the heart and central focus of this space, so you don’t want to compromise on the style, layout and theme that you dreamed of.

If you speak to a kitchen designer and start thinking about the kitchen after getting planning permission then yuou will run the risk of not having enough space for the style and layout that you really wanted and hoped for. For true luxury, opt for a bespoke kitchen that’s customised down to the millimetre for your exact requirements. (For more: find out what a bespoke kitchen really means).

Engage with your local kitchen designer to discuss some ideas, considering your space and concepts and what really matters to you. The extension can then be build around this foundation.

Put together a wishlist or a mood board (Pinterest is great for this) of styles, ideas and things you want. Instagram is also a great place to search for inspiration (as is the Kesseler brochure!).

Think about whether you want to go for something open plan. If you’re having a side-return kitchen and your space is narrow, many people opt for a galley kitchen, with the cabinetry either side of you. Those building a single storey rear extension will often add an island or a peninsula kitchen, with some seating. This is great if you like to occasionally eat in the kitchen or want it to be a social space.

When planning the space, we recommend that you leave between 100-120cm of clearance between all your units, this gives you plenty of room to manouvre comfortably and can also allow for what’s known as the working triangle, where all your common sections of the kitchen are within easy reach. 

If your extension is going to have a lantern or some other glazing for natural light, you can place your island below it (if you want an island!). If only part of the room will be glazed, you can use that area for dining and socialing, with the kitchen in the darker part of the room that can be lit with downlights or beautiful pendant lighting.

Think about things like which is the best worktop for you or what colours combine or contrast the best.

A Kesseler designer will work with clients who don’t even have architects plans yet. Whilst they may not put together a full design (which is difficult without accurate plans) they can guide you in terms of sizes, cabinetry, colour and door options and some base pricing so you can start to build a budget.

Our designers will also work directly with your architects or builders to help with the project and ensure that everything fits together smoothly. Initial consultations or home visits are complimentary, allowing you to ask all the burning questions you’ve had saved up, like whether gas or induction hobs are better or what the best boiling water tap is.

A kitchen extension by Basfords

Finding your builder

Many Kesseler showrooms offer a full turnkey solution and have a number of builders that they’ve worked with previously, so it’s worth speaking to them for recommendations.

If you wish to source your own builder then it’s worth searching social media or asking your friends for recommended companies. Your architect will also have construction firms that they’ve previously worked with and can vouch for.

Nothing beats a good recommendation from someone you trust. If you can, see if you’re able to visit one of their previous sites to talk to the client and find out how the builder performed and whether or not they delivered the project on budget.

Failing that, be sure to check websites such as ratedpeople.com or checkatrade.com to create a shortlist of builders to speak to. Have a good conversation with a potential builder about your project and get an understanding of previous similar extensions they’ve worked on. See if they can share photos of their previous projects and search for online reviews from previous customers. Also see if they’re registered as part of any trade schemes such as the Federation of Master Builders.

Our top tip for builders is to get them to agree to a fixed price for the quote, in writing. This will allow you to budget more effectively; avoiding day rates is key to stopping costs from ramping up unexpectedly.

Want to discuss your kitchen project?

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10 things you need to know when starting a kitchen extension

A kitchen extension is a big undertaking, but if done right can transform your living space and way of life while also increasing the value of your home.

If you’ve never done an extension before then there’s a lot to take on board; but if you go into it with your eyes open and armed with as much information as possible, you’re much more likely to come out with the kitchen of your dreams.

Doing what we do has given us a unique inside view into the process. We’ve seen it all in our time making and fitting kitchens – the good and the bad. We’ve compiled a list of our top ten tips when planning a kitchen extension.

1. Start planning your kitchen at the beginning of the project

Your kitchen will be what makes or breaks your extension.  

You need to ask yourself: Is it just going to be a kitchen or dining area, or do you want it to be more than this? Is this where you will spend your time with guests? and if so, how can you design the space to meet all those needs.

The earlier you plan your kitchen, the better chance you have of getting it right. It’ll also be much easier for your preferred kitchen company to be able to work to your timescale and make any suggestions with regards to how to make the best of your space, which may involve making small changes to the build.

Good kitchen companies will liaise with the builder, during the build, to help ensure that everyone is on the same page. Sometimes they can be a useful second pair of eyes. We should know. We’ve seen a lot of extensions, and we know what to look out for – we can tell if there are any red flags.

2. Get lots of quotes

The more quotes the better, but we’d recommend a minimum of 7 or 8. Happily, quotes are free so, if you can spare the time, meeting multiple builders is an invaluable safety net.

Every builder you see provides context for the other builders, both in terms of price, and also personality (do you like them?), expertise, ideas etc. They may bring completely new ideas to the table. Even informal chats with a contractor can be illuminating or suggest things that you or your architect may not have previously thought of. 

The more quotes you get the more you find out the true price of the build. If you get 7 quotes and there are 3 quotes of similar price in the middle then that is a good indication that that is the real cost, whereas if you only get 3 or 4 then you are none the wiser. You’d be surprised how much quotes for a single project can vary! 

3. Make decisions early

There are a surprising number of decisions to make when planning a kitchen extension. From floor finish, kitchen, worktops, taps, toilet, basin, colours to appliances, glass doors and lights. It goes on and on.   

This is why it pays to be organised and think about these things in advance, or risk endlessly rushing to buy supplies throughout the build. 

Your kitchen is the heart of your home, so the earlier you start planning out the details, the better chance you have of getting it right. Speak to your preferred kitchen company as soon as possible so you can start budgeting immediately and set an achievable timescale.

4. Be realistic about cost and timescale

This is a simple but important one.  

Make sure you’re being realistic in terms of the cost and time frame of the project, and make sure your contractors are being realistic too. 

The single biggest reason we see for problem builds is when clients go into the project with unrealistic expectations and choose the builder who says he can meet them. Only after the build is well under way and there is no turning back do the costs and time frame begin to escalate, and you’re left unprepared, which leads us to our next point. .. 

5. Be cautious about contractor recommendations  

Recommendations can be useful, and are a great starting point, however never rely on recommendations alone. Do you own research too. Recommendations are often based on one positive experience alone. How long ago was it? How big was the job? When building firms grow they can struggle to find enough really quality trades, so a firm that were brilliant 5 years ago when they were a small operation may not be so good now they’re much larger. 

6. Don’t be afraid to ask questions

People are worried that builders will get annoyed with them if they ask too many questions, and the work will suffer as a result. In fact, the opposite is true! No self-respecting builder will have a problem with you asking questions, and the more you’re involved in the build, the more you’ll know what’s going on and the better the outcome is likely to be. 

If you spot that the tiling doesn’t look quite right, don’t be afraid to point it out and make them do it again! Don’t feel intimidated to ask why things are being done a certain way (or not being done a certain way) or point out mistakes and ask for them to be rectified.

You should have a good rapport with your chosen designer and make sure they understand exactly what it is you’re looking to achieve. It’s ok to demand and expect perfection. Any contractor who has a problem with that is a problem contractor. 

7. Budget wisely

The budget doesn’t stop with the build itself. You need to leave room for finishes, as well as a contingency. If you don’t, you may have to cut costs on the floor, kitchen, taps, tiles, etc, and these are the things that you will notice more than anything else. So, work your costs out for these items in advance, and make sure you’re sticking to the budget.

Also, expect costs to rise! You’ve all seen grand designs – need we say more? 

It’s sensible to set a healthy contingency to cover any unexpected costs or price rises. It’s amazing how often work on an extension project uncovers underlying problems with the existing house that need to be addressed.  

We recommend a contingency of somewhere between 10-20%.

8. Use your space wisely

When designing your extension, it’s easy to get caught up in looking at it in terms of square metres instead of the overall value it’s adding to the house. The truth is there are a number of clever ways you can create the feeling of more room without adding extra floor space to your extension. 

Intelligent design goes a long way towards maximising the potential of a new extension as well as improving what’s already there. 

The extension will be where people spend most of their time and is often the best space in the house, the lightest and often the most social. As a result, you should really be considering ways to integrate comfy seating into the design. A kitchen extension these days is not just a kitchen, its a kitchen, diner, social space and daytime sitting room. Make sure your space fits around the everyday and aspirational functions of the room.

A kitchen extension is a significant investment, so you want to make sure your new space will deliver. In order for it to do that, you can’t just look at what’s required right now. Consider the changing dynamics of your family and ways in which you can future-proof your kitchen to be a space that continues to offer long-term value. 

9. Let there be light 

Light is an amazingly simple way to give the illusion of added space and can make a significant difference to the overall atmosphere of a renovation. 

How much natural light will be available in your extension? Answering this question reveals how much artificial light will be needed, which in turn may affect the entire layout of your kitchen and the positioning of the main workspaces.

10. Combining old and new  

Lastly, take some time to consider how your new extension will sit alongside your original property, and whether or not it will complement or contrast with the main building. 

This could have a big influence on the materials you choose, as well as the entire design of the project. In the long run, you want something that will fit in with your home and your lifestyle. No matter how good your new extension looks, it needs to be liveable – first and foremost! 

Are you planning to build a kitchen extension? We can help get you started with projects of any shape or size.

Get in touch

GuidesTom JarvisNovember 4, 2018bespoke kitchens, extensions, contractors, carpentry

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Tips on Planning and Designing a Kitchen Extension – masterbuildteam

Adding a kitchen extension to your home is a great way to update the central hub of your home, making it a place people will love spending time in. It’s also one of the most cost-effective ways of adding value to your house. We take a look at some top tips for kitchen extension ideas, as well as how much kitchen extensions cost.

How Much Does a Kitchen Extension Cost?

One of the most important aspects to consider when planning your kitchen extension is the cost. Not only is it useful to know roughly what the project is going to set you back, but it’s also essential to budget for it ahead of time.

Of course, it’s impossible to say exactly how much your kitchen extension design will end up costing. However, there are some good guidelines on kitchen pricing:

• Single storey extensions. Will cost around £1,500 per m²
• A more individual extension. Includes things like bespoke windows and doors. Will cost from £1,900 to £2,200 per m².
• Higher specification extension. With extra details and flourishes. Can cost up to £3,000 per m².
• Redesigning work. Includes things like reworking an interior layout. Can cost £500 to £900 per m².

Make sure that you allow some extra room in your budget for any unforeseen costs.

You’ll also need to bear in mind that, depending on the size and scale of your extension, you may need to get planning permission. This is another key factor when you’re trying to figure out how much kitchen extensions cost.

Several variables determine what kind of permission you’ll need. However, in general, you can avoid the need for planning permission for your rear kitchen extension if:

• A single-storey extension. These can be up to 6m from the original rear wall of an attached house or 8m on a detached property. It can be up to 4m in height unless it’s within 2m of your property’s boundary. In those instances, height is limited to 3m.
• A double-storey extension. These have to be at the rear and can’t be any taller than the highest part of your existing roof. They also can’t extend beyond your rear wall by more than 3m, and they must match the original structure.

If you want to find out more about whether you need planning permission, you can check planningportal.co.uk for full conditions.

What and Who Do You Need?

It can be a daunting prospect when figuring out how to plan a kitchen extension. There are many different aspects to consider aside from how much the kitchen extension costs. To make the process easier for you, we’ve outlined some of the dos and don’ts of planning a kitchen extension:

• Do get detailed plans. Work with professional builders and tradespeople to come up with a cost estimate and detailed plans. Make sure to cover all angles and don’t leave anything to chance.
• Do plan for material storage. There will likely be many different building materials that will need storing somewhere on or near your property. Make sure there’s a safe place for them.

• Don’t micromanage. Once you’ve agreed on a price and timescale with your builders, let them work in the way they’re used to. Each tradesperson has their own way of working, so respect their profession.
• Don’t be unclear. If you’re taking on some parts of the project yourself, make sure your builder knows exactly which parts. Sometimes the line between where one job starts and another one ends can blur, so be sure to discuss this in advance.

Timeline of Building a Kitchen Extension

So, how long should your project take? Well, that depends on factors such as the size and scale of the work. You may be planning a rear kitchen extension, a conservatory kitchen extension, or a glass roof kitchen extension, and each would take a different amount of time.

However, as a general rule, you can expect:

• Week 1. Prep.
• Week 2. Groundwork and Foundations.
• Week 3-4. Low-Level and Ground Work.
• Week 5-6. Internal and External Walls.
• Week 7. Build Roof Structure.
• Week 8. Lay Roof Covering.
• Week 9-10.Guttering, Windows, Doors.
• Week 11-12. Knock Through and Plastering.
• Week 13. Final Work.
• Week 14. Snagging and Garden Work.

Again, there’s always the potential for things to move faster or slower than these estimates, and delays may be possible.

Kitchen Extension Layouts

Now that we’ve covered some of the basics of the prep, it’s time to provide some inspiration. Below, we’ve picked out seven gorgeous kitchen extension designs to give you some ideas:

This beautiful open-plan kitchen extension gives a light and airy feel to the room.  

Those in search of a rear kitchen extension will love this design, which mixes modern and contemporary themes.

This sleek, modern design gives plenty of space with monochrome stylings.

The gold of the lamps and the leather bar stools accentuate the clean design of this kitchen.

Those looking for small kitchen extension ideas can take inspiration from this design.

If you’re looking for a kitchen extension with skylights, they don’t come much better than this one.

When it comes to conservatory kitchen extensions, this modern take is absolutely stunning.

Start Planning Your Kitchen Extension Today

You now have all the information on planning your project and how much kitchen extensions cost. Hopefully, you also have plenty of inspiration to get started on your own plans with. Adding a kitchen extension can significantly increase your space and improve your life. So contact us today and let us build the kitchen of your dreams!

90,000 annex to the house kitchen and bathroom

Content

1. General information
2. Building the foundation
3. Lower bind and floors
4. Wall
5. How to add a kitchen, bathroom and pantry to the house?
6. What do bathrooms, toilets and kitchens have in common?

Sometimes it happens that after the construction of a country house, it turns out that it has a small area, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, hozblok, workshop or shed. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to the house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof – later in the article.

Brief content of the article:

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then you should provide for floor insulation, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over in the case of living in winter how to heat the room.

As an easy option for an extension, a veranda can be equipped – it provides protection from wind and bad weather. In winter, it will not be possible to live on the veranda, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

• ease and speed of erection;
• relative cheapness;
• ecological cleanliness of the extension;
• there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Building a foundation

For a porch or a frame-type residential extension, a column foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is low. If there is a need to bring communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation.

The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to burden the structure.

Concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50×50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is covered with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is carefully rammed.

The pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete has gained strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the poles.

Bottom rails and floors

In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bituminous mastic.

A 150×150 mm beam, preferably made of larch, is used as the bottom trim. Under it, a roofing material is necessarily planted to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, with the help of studs, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50×150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected to self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the beds, on which the logs are laid. Insulation is placed between the lags, for example, polystyrene, and subfloors are laid. Finishing floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

Walls are made in two ways – either the structure is assembled on the ground and then erected, or the frame is gradually built in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The erection process begins with the corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a section of at least 100×100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional posts and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Roof and insulation of extension

The easiest way to equip the roof is a conventional shed. It should be done as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is side. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements – rafters, beams, lathing must be treated with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Styrofoam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then an insulating material is placed between the racks of the frame, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or drywall to the racks, and proceed to the fine finish.

Photos of extensions to the house

This article allows you to fully learn how to build an extension to the house in your city. Detailed information about pouring the foundation for construction. A large number of high-quality and clear images make this article more attractive to read.

I would also like to note convenient site navigation and a small amount of advertising that does not interfere with viewing.

I made two extensions to the house in the village – a bathroom and a boiler room (before there was neither water nor gas). The boiler room heats itself, so there were no questions with it – the walls are one and a half bricks, thermal insulation inside, drywall. But I had to tinker with the bathroom – in the very first winter we found out that it was very cold there.

I had to make additional insulation of the outer walls and sheathe them with clapboard. Now it’s warm and cozy.

Good article, nothing to complain about
Five years ago I made an extension to my house measuring 3×4 meters. The foundation was poured columnar, here everything is written by the author correctly – it makes no sense to fill in a solid one, only extra costs. I put the sleepers at the base, poured the posts only at the junction, and then leveled the entire base with screenings, flush with the posts.

Stands securely.
I also wanted to say that when building a warm extension, attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the seam between the wall of the house and the wall of the extension.

If the extension room is used as a summer building, why should it be weighted with windows. I added an open porch to the house. Decorated with columns and wooden bars.

In summer it is very cozy, the lattice curls with flowers. I would like to hear about the legal side of the design of such an extension. Is it necessary to take a building permit or documents are drawn up after the fact.

They added a terrace to the house. The foundation for it was a sand-gravel cushion up to twenty centimeters thick. Tropical wood was used for construction.

The flooring was made from a wood-polymer composite. When constructing the flooring, you should not lay out the boards very close to each other, because if it rains, the water will stagnate. A gap of two millimeters will be enough.

Where to start

If you lack knowledge and skills, it is advisable to invite a professional master as a partner. So it will be calmer and more reliable.

Otherwise, errors and alterations are indispensable. And this is fraught with loss of time, money and effort spent. And the mood from such experiments will not improve.

When there are problems with choosing the type of extension, it is better to first look at the photo of the extension to the house. Select the appropriate option and start implementing it.

At the beginning it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan (preferably a project and estimate). Then coordinate your ideas with your partner. Obtain the necessary permits from the local authority, the fire inspectorate and the sanitary and epidemiological station.

It is not rational to purchase all the necessary building and finishing materials at once. You can’t put them in the open air, and there’s no point in moving them to the warehouse and back.

Particular attention should be paid to the way the foundations (main and extension) are combined into a single whole. Otherwise, the new building may shift on unstable ground and everything will have to start over.

The roof of the extension will require no less thought. It is necessary to correctly calculate and design the truss system for the selected type of roofing materials.

Choose suitable options for insulation, water supply, sewerage, heating, ventilation, electrical wiring. The number of windows and entrance doors. Decide on the type of interior and exterior decoration.

Frame extension

Depending on the purpose, it is constructed from different materials. Usually a wooden beam with a section of 150 × 150 mm is used. If the extension is a living space, insulation will be required.

How to add a kitchen, bathroom and pantry to the house?

Both in the multi-apartment housing stock in the city and in private country cottages, the bath, toilet and kitchen are made side by side or combined. This layout is found not only in old houses, but also in new buildings. What is it – a tribute to the traditions in housing planning or a need in technical terms?

• What do bathrooms, toilets and kitchens have in common?
• Features of the arrangement of the extension
• Conclusion

This issue is especially of interest to the owners of plots outside the city, where housing is just being built. You also need to know this if an extension to the house is made, a kitchen, a bathroom, a pantry, the layout of these premises takes a separate stage.

When moving to a private house or dacha, accustomed to the conditions of a toilet combined with a bathroom, apartment owners tend to make them separate – this will not only add comfort to living, but also increase the attractiveness of these premises.

Let’s consider whether it is possible to make a redevelopment and make a separate attached toilet, bath and closet out of the combined bathroom. Information about outbuildings in a private house will also be useful.

What do bathrooms, toilets and kitchens have in common?

Bathroom and kitchen are often combined because of the common sewage pipe. For example, in a private house, when arranging, they use special normalization tables for these communications. There is a relationship between the diameter of the pipe and the slope made from the house. So, for pipes of 50 mm, the slope will be from 2.5 to 3.5 cm. And for 200 mm, the slope will be from 0.5 to 0.8 cm. It is necessary to know a number of its features:

• There is no forced movement in the drains of such a system, which causes the obligatory slope of the pipe away from the house;
• The slope depends on the diameter of the pipe, while it is necessary to lay allowances of no more than 0.2 cm;
• A branch is made from the house to the septic tank or storage tank. This type of system involves the use of pipes with diameters of 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. Each section of communications is placed at a slope and has some common denominator for all equipment in the house, which is placed in the toilet, kitchen or bathroom. If there is a washing machine in the pantry, its drain must also be agreed.

Considering these features, it is advantageous for the owner to put all units with plumbing pipes nearby. Technically and technologically, this is justified by the location of the communication connection.

Some owners move the toilet or shower to the closet. This is possible if the sewers are nearby. The toilet is always connected to a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm; for large sizes and non-standard faience products, a reduction type adapter must be installed.

Other sanitary ware connected with 50mm or 32mm pipes. The toilet should not be allowed to be far from the kitchen (for example, more than 15-20 meters). The siphon in this case will be about 0.47 m high, which is not only inconvenient, but also aesthetically unattractive.

Experts recommend – an extension to the house, a kitchen, a bathroom, a storage room – the layout is made as a single unit with partitions.

What can you make an extension out of. How to make an extension to the house – expert advice. Stages of building a columnar foundation for an extension

How to create a frame extension to a house, the reliability of building a foundation, walls, floor and roof. Stages of work, advice on insulation. Extension types.

Over time, the living space gets used and you want to expand it, for this case you will need a frame extension to the house, which will be an excellent solution. So that all the pitfalls do not bring problems, below is described in detail what the extension is intended for. How to choose the right foundation, features of creating a strip and column foundation. What to choose for the floor wood or concrete, how the walls and frame are erected. How is a reliable overlap and roofing. What is the literacy of floor and wall insulation.

What is the technological feature of the extension, what are the ways to install a frame extension to a wooden floor. Stages of building a frame house with your own hands. How to create a construction project, how an additional living room, kitchen or bath is being built, especially the installation of a veranda.

How to choose a frame extension to a wooden house, fastening to a wooden structure, the importance of finishing. What materials and tools are used, how the site is planned, how to choose the material for the floor: concrete or wood.

Purpose of extension

When for various reasons it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill in working with a carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the stages of construction will help to make a useful and beautiful extension that will last for many years.

So that the extension does not have to be transformed later, it is necessary to consider the nuances of the structure even at the planning stage.

First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

1. Extra room.
   The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom.
   Take care of the plumbing before you start building the foundation. The places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
3. Veranda
   is a light extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of brickwork.

Various materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete.

It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

• tape;
• slab;
• columnar;
• pile;
• pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a strip foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.

1. Use string and pegs to mark where the trench will be dug.
2. The soil is chosen to the depth of the sole of the foundation of the house. Sand is poured at the bottom, rammed. A layer of crushed stone is laid on top, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
3. Prepare formwork equal to the height of the future foundation. Waterproofing is laid inside along the perimeter and welded reinforcement is installed on a layer of rubble.
4. Prepare a concrete solution in a ratio of 1:3:6 (cement, sand, crushed stone).
5. Pour the prepared mixture onto 1/3 of the formwork. After solidification, fill the remaining height. The solution is compacted with a vibrator to remove air bubbles. Or tapping with a hammer on the walls of the formwork.
6. Level the top. Cover with foil. While the solution is gaining strength, periodically wet the surface to prevent cracks.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

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Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.

Pillar foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a pillar foundation, which is made of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. Distance between posts approx. 60 cm.

Operation sequence:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully tamped;
• , a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• concrete support is made in the same way as a strip foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pole, covered with several layers of roofing material on top – the material will protect the wooden beam of the floor from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its ramming is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is placed on a strip foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor.

Consider both technologies:

1. Concrete.
   Inside the foundation, soil is selected to a depth of 35 cm. They equip a sand cushion, compact it well. Then you can fill it with rubble, but expanded clay is used to insulate the screed. Enough 20 cm layer. A reinforcing grate is laid on top. With the help of the level, beacons are set, along which a cement screed is subsequently poured. Lay tile or wood flooring on top.
2. The wooden floor is arranged along the floor beams
   , which are laid on the base over the waterproofing. The beam with the foundation is connected with through fasteners, anchors or self-tapping screws. In the corners they are connected with a direct lock and additionally fixed with corners. Next, lags are mounted, insulation is laid and flooring is laid.

Erection of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled coronal girders. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series.

Step by step instructions:

• On the lower rails of the harness, make a notch every 50 cm for the uprights.
• Mount the uprights by fixing them with corner pieces and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the top harness.
• The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical beam to the wall.
• Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to immediately sheathe the finished “skeleton” of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
• After the roof has been erected and insulated, insert the windows and doors.

Slab and Roofing

Shed roofing can be combined with almost any house roof and is therefore the most common configuration. Let’s consider it.

1. The rafters are installed with one end under the slope of the roof of the house, and with the other they rest on the wall of the veranda. Fixed with metal corners. The main thing is to accurately choose the angle of inclination.
2. The rafter legs should protrude at least 30 cm beyond the wall boundary. Such a roof overhang will protect the walls of the veranda from precipitation.
3. The issue of roofing is decided in advance. Usually choose the material with which the house is covered. Under the soft roof, solid material is laid on the rafters: plywood, OSB sheets or frequent lathing. Slate or metal tiles are laid on the rafters if the logs are installed in small increments.
4. The construction is covered with waterproofing, which is selected individually for the coating material.
5. Start laying the roof from the bottom of the rafter.
6. Mineral wool is used for insulation, which is placed between the rafters. The ceiling is sewn up with boards or panels and decorated.

Wall and floor insulation

Mineral wool is used as a wall insulation material. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams.

Expert opinion

Evgeny Filimonov

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

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The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed with a finishing material on top.

Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, plasterboard and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

Wall cake towards the outer wall looks like this:

• inner lining;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation material;
• wind insulation;
• outer lining.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, a fine floor covering is mounted.

Concrete floors can be insulated in the same way as wood floors, dry screed, concrete screed and hot water or electric heating.

Do-it-yourselfers often overlook the need for safety precautions. Use personal protective equipment and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

Sometimes it happens that after the construction of a country house, it turns out that it has a small area, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, utility block, workshop or barn. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to the house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof – later in the article.

General information

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in the summer, then you should provide for floor insulation, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over in the case of living in winter how to heat the room.

As an easy extension, a veranda can be built to provide protection from wind and weather. In winter, it will not be possible to live on the veranda, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

The extension must be in harmony with the main building. An economical, warm and prefabricated version of the building is a frame made of wood, after erection it is easy to finish it under the main building. It has many advantages:

• simplicity and speed of erection;
• relative cheapness;
• ecological cleanliness of the extension;
• there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Foundation construction

For a frame-type veranda or residential extension, a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is low. If there is a need to bring communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to burden the structure.

Concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50×50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is covered with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is carefully rammed.

Pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete has gained strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the poles.

Bottom rails and floors

In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bituminous mastic.

As the lower trim, use a beam 150×150 mm, preferably from larch. Under it, a roofing material is necessarily planted to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, with the help of studs, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50×150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected to self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the beds on which the joists are laid. Insulation is placed between the lags, for example, polystyrene, and subfloors are laid. Finishing floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

Walls are made in two ways – either the structure is assembled on the ground and then erected, or the frame is gradually built in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The erection process begins with corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a section of at least 100×100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional posts and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Extension roof and insulation

The easiest way to equip a roof is a conventional shed. It should be done as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is side. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements – rafters, beams, lathing must be treated with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Styrofoam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then an insulating material is placed between the racks of the frame, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or drywall to the racks, and proceed to the fine finish.

Photos of extensions to the house

When for various reasons it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill in working with a carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages with photos will help you make a useful and beautiful extension as in the video, which will last for many years.

So that the extension does not have to be transformed later, it is necessary to consider the nuances of the structure even at the planning stage. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

An extension can expand the area of ​​the house

1. Additional room. The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the engineering communications before you start building the foundation. The places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
3. The veranda is a light extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

Veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of brickwork.

Pillar foundation made of bricks

Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a strip type of foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.

Post foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is made of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. Work sequence:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted;
• a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• Concrete support is made in the same way as a strip foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

For a veranda, a columnar foundation is enough

• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the column, covered with several layers of roofing material on top – the material will protect the wooden beam of the floor from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its compaction is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finishing floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on a strip foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let’s take a look at both technologies.

Frame and wall erection

Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled crown beams of the strapping. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step by step instruction:

• On the lower rails of the harness, make a notch every 50 cm for the uprights.
• Mount the uprights by fixing them with corner pieces and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble the top harness.

Construction of the frame

• The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
• Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to sheathe the finished “skeleton” of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
• Once the roof has been erected and insulated, insert windows and doors.

Ceiling and roofing

The shed type of roof is compatible with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let’s consider it.

Wall and floor insulation

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from the accumulation of moisture, and sheathed with a finishing material on top. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, a fine floor covering is mounted.

Concrete floors can be insulated in the same way as wood floors, dry screed, concrete screed and hot water or electric heating.

Do-it-yourselfers often overlook the need for safety precautions. Use personal protective equipment and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

Frame extension on piles: video

Extending the usable area of ​​a private house with the help of an additional extension allows us to solve a lot of problems, first of all, to increase the usable area and increase the level of comfort. An extension to a wooden house is easier to formalize legally than a new building, and it can be built much cheaper than if you rebuild the entire box of the house. It is only necessary to choose the right project to make the wooden extension box one with the building box.

Features of planning an extension to a wooden house

Don’t let the simplicity and modest size of the attached premises fool you. Not so simple. Experienced craftsmen recommend taking the problem of arranging an extension to a wooden house as seriously as if you had to build a real house or make another floor.

There are two “narrow” moments in the construction of the extension:

• It is necessary to properly plan and make a junction of two foundations. It is not enough to build an additional base for an extension, you also need to make it safe so that a small foundation does not cause settlement or deformation of the walls;
• Select the form and method of attaching the extension truss system to the frame of the wooden house. Depending on the chosen project, part of the roof of a wooden house will have to be dismantled in order to build one common slope or make it in a broken pattern.

It is no more difficult to build walls, cut windows, doorways, lay the floor in the annex, hang insulation and perform decorative finishing, equipping the ceiling is no more difficult than when building an ordinary house.

The most interesting type of extension to the house is made with a sliding front wall. If necessary, the room can be easily transformed into a living room or made into a summer kitchen.

Extensions to a wooden house: types, purpose

Of course, building planning begins with the general idea of ​​building an additional space. Most often, the owners decide to build a separate room, floor or even part of a wooden house in order to allocate additional living space for guests or family members, equip a recreation area, make a utility room or install additional boiler equipment.

A modern wooden house is considered to be a fairly complex structure. After assembly, the wooden house adjusts to the foundation for a long time, the walls and crowns shrink. In order to build a strong and stable extension to a building from a bar or log, it will take at least a year of waiting.

Traditionally, the owners prefer to make an extension of:

• Aerated concrete blocks;
• Profiled timber;
• Red or sand-lime brick;
• Sip panels or self-made wooden boards.

One of the most popular trends is the use of glass or polycarbonate panels. Double-glazed windows provide good thermal insulation, and excess sunlight makes it possible to make the extension room in the form of a closed veranda or winter garden.

Often an extension has to be built by blocking the windows in a wooden house with walls. A transparent roof or a polycarbonate wall solves the problem of shading the living space.

Frame house extension

If you want to build an additional room to a wooden house in the shortest possible time, it is best to make an extension in the form of a frame-panel structure. At first glance, the frame scheme looks very complicated: a lot of wooden racks and lintels sheathed with OSB boards, plywood and tongue and groove board. In fact, making the frame of an extension to a wooden house is not difficult even for a novice carpenter.

The frame scheme has its advantages:

• The light weight of the extension makes it possible to make a simple and inexpensive pile foundation instead of the traditional strip foundation. The time needed to build an additional building is reduced from two to three weeks to a few days;
• The cost of erecting a frame extension is approximately half that of a similar structure made of timber or aerated concrete;
• Frame extension with low weight has high rigidity due to the use of a large number of struts and struts;
• Thanks to the use of an openwork power scheme of the frame, the attached room can be quite large, even two floors;
• Even if a wooden house is equipped with a complex sloping roof, it is much easier to build a full-fledged roof for an extension and connect it to the building’s truss system than if the attached box is made of brick or foam block.

In the form of a frame extension, you can make an insulated veranda, a bathhouse and even a rest room. If a wooden house is placed on a concrete strip foundation, huge window openings can be made in the attached room, turning it into a studio or dining room.

The frame scheme of the extension is ideal for building an attic room on the second floor of a wooden house. Even if the building is built of logs, modern insulation materials provide comfortable living conditions in winter.

Ideally, the frame extension should be built on a strip concrete foundation. It may not be the cheapest way to build additional space, but there are several tangible benefits to using MZLF:

• Firstly, the concrete strip significantly increases the rigidity of the frame extension. An exception may be the options when a wooden house for a number of reasons had to be made on a pile foundation;
• Secondly, a rigid base will exclude the manifestation of such unpleasant phenomena as wall distortion or settlement of door and window openings, even if the windows in the extension are made half a wall.

If you correctly tie the concrete strip under the extension to the base of the wooden house, then regardless of the course of shrinkage processes, there will never be cracks or gaps between the walls of the house and the attached building, which are typical for heavy structures made of brick and stone.

But there is one limitation, experts do not recommend building frame rooms on concrete strip foundations in conditions of heavily watered soils. In addition to the forces of frost heaving, which deform the base of the attached premises, the wooden frame extension, even when waterproofing is used, is quite sensitive to ground moisture.

One example of solving a similar problem in the construction of frame extensions is the joint construction of an extension and an open terrace on a foundation of grillage or pile type.

A huge shield terrace made of larch or polymer board is installed on a foundation of screw piles, photo. The strength and rigidity of the pile foundation field is enough to build a huge frame structure on the terrace with just huge windows. The wooden walls of the house and the attached premises are covered with ventilated siding with a natural stone finish.

Foam block house extension

The use of a foam block greatly simplifies the task. The light weight of the wall block allows you to build extension boxes of various shapes and sizes. The only essential condition is the use of the most rigid foundation. Even if, before the construction of the extension, the wooden house was built on piles, the foam concrete box must be installed on the MZLF.

Due to the low rigidity of foam concrete masonry, an attached room is usually extended along one of the walls of a wooden house. This allows you to make the extension sufficiently stable without internal lintels and walls. A wooden house due to an extension, as it were, increases in length.

Wooden and foam concrete walls need protection from rain and frost, most often with clapboard or siding. In this case, the dimensions of the attached box are adjusted to the dimensions of the wooden house so that after laying the siding or ventilated facade, the building looks like a single monolithic building.

Easy to handle and fit, the foam block makes it relatively easy to build an extension box of the most intricate shape and configuration. For example, if you can build a closed veranda on the entire wall of the house, while making part of the extension in the form of a bay window.

The construction of an extension from foam blocks on the entire wall of a wooden house is possible only if an additional concrete strip can be added to the strip foundation of the building for the attached room.

In addition, the walls of foam blocks at the level of window openings must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt made of a metal profile. The easiest way is to make a belt from a channel with metal embedded in the corners of the wooden walls of the house.

In this case, the extension can be built even on a relatively weak foundation, the channel belt will keep the extension from overturning or bulging walls.

Extension to a wooden house made of timber

It is technologically much more difficult to make a log extension to a wooden house than to build an additional building from brick or aerated concrete.

First of all, the foundation, experts categorically recommend making a foundation of the same type under the extension as under the main building. If for some reason it is impossible to use the advice, then the attached timber box is best done on a pile foundation.

The second problem is the shrinkage of the wooden walls of the building. Regardless of the chosen design of the foundation and roof, the timber extension will shrink for at least another year, so it will be necessary to make expansion gaps on the walls and the roof truss system.

The easiest way is to build an additional room below the installation level of the truss system of a wooden house. In this case, the roof of the extension does not exert much pressure on the mauerlat and the upper rims of the roofing system. It is enough to make a swinging node adjoining the shed roof of the extension to the wooden wall of the house, if the node is built correctly, then the shrinkage processes of the timber walls will not affect the stability of the main box of the building.

If an extension from a bar needs to be made equal in height to the walls of a wooden house, then it will be necessary to build a common roof for the entire structure. To do this, it will be necessary to disassemble the roofing and make a transitional part for the articulation of the truss system of a wooden house with a shed extension system.

The above method of combining the roofing of two buildings guarantees no leaks, even if the shrinkage of the attached building exceeds the calculated values. If necessary, a canopy over the entrance to the house can be made from a new common roof slope or a wooden terrace can be built. It is enough to lengthen the overhang and install additional supports, however, this can be done no earlier than the shrinkage of the walls of the extension ends.

Do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house: step by step instructions

The problem of expanding the existing housing stock is especially relevant for country and country houses. As a rule, a cottage is bought together with a house. In the process of the first redevelopment and distribution of the usable area of ​​the building, it becomes clear that the wooden house requires a radical reconstruction. At a minimum, you will need to attach a veranda or covered terrace for relaxation. The earlier a wooden extension is made, the cheaper the construction of a country house will be.

Construction preparation

It is best to build an additional space on the sunny side of the building. Wooden walls do not like direct sunlight, so the surface of the wood is additionally primed with a protective varnish, Tikkurila is best. Regardless of which side of the wooden house it is planned to build an additional room, the box is reinforced with staples, vapor barrier and mineral fiber boards are laid. It is extremely necessary to insulate the extension, even if the project involves the construction of a warm extension.

Foundation laying

Following the golden rule for the construction of extensions, the foundation for the base of the attached premises must be chosen the same as for a wooden house. In this case, the attached box can be built on a columnar foundation. Such a scheme is simpler and cheaper than a tape or pile version.

If the purchased wooden dacha has problems with the shrinkage of part of the supports, then it is best to make a remote MZL foundation that will cover both the old building and the new building.

Important!
In this case, the problem of joining the bases of the attached and main wooden premises is automatically solved.

In order to make a columnar foundation, you will need:

• Clean the top layer of soil under the base of the extension, remove the sod, remove grass and roots, the surface is covered with geotextile so that weeds do not grow, covered with a layer of sand and rammed in two or three passes ;
• The next step is to make columnar supports, the easiest way to build supports is by pouring a concrete mixture into a wooden formwork. If the site has a slope of the surface, then the supports must be connected to each other with reinforcement bundles, even without embedding it in concrete. Anchor studs, 100-150 mm high, are embedded in the supporting surface of the pillars;
• Approximately four hours after pouring, the supporting surface must be trimmed so that all platforms are located in the same strictly horizontal plane.

After the concrete has set, it is necessary to remove the wooden formwork and make waterproofing, it is best to paste over the supports with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Next, you need to build the harness and the base of the extension, which will connect the sole of the attached room with the foundation of the wooden building.

Connecting the foundation to the base of a wooden house

Strapping can be done no earlier than three days after pouring concrete. In winter, the exposure time is doubled. First you need to build a mounting plane. To do this, one beam is laid on two edge rows of columnar supports, so that they are parallel to the wooden wall of the house. Next, a support beam is sewn onto the adjacent wall of the wooden house, this must be done strictly along the horizon line.

The transverse beams of the column foundation framing will rest freely at one end on the beam sewn to the wall, the rest of the wooden framing after alignment will be fixed on the supports. In this way, it is possible to build and connect the foundations of an extension and a wooden house using a flexible ligament.

If a concrete strip foundation is made for a wooden house and an attached room, then the connection between the bases will need to be built according to the diagram below. An expansion joint is made between the concrete strips of the two foundations, into which a triple-folded glass roofing material is laid.

Installation of the floor in the outbuilding

After completing the foundation work, before building the floor and the load-bearing elements of the walls, it is necessary to do, as they say, “welding” the wooden parts. Foundation wood is treated three times:

• Fungus, woodworms are etched with an aqueous solution of chrompic, the second pass is to treat wooden structures with vitriol oil;
• Next, the wooden beams are fired with a blowtorch or gas burner to make the pores in the wood susceptible to finishing with drying oil or oil paint;
• All wooden elements of the foundation of the extension are painted with a protective compound, it is best to do the treatment with silicate protective paints.

Please note!
After impregnation with organosilicon protective compounds, a wooden extension can be built even on wet marshy ground.

Before building the floor, it is necessary to measure the distance between the cross beams of the strapping to make the floor as strong as possible, without creaking boards and deflections. The distance between the lags should be no more than 60 cm, so the strapping beams are either diluted with intermediate beams, or oblique wooden corners are sewn on.

The next step is to make the flooring. The lower plane of the wooden strapping is lined with a tongue-and-groove board, plywood or an ordinary sawlog. Waterproofing and mineral seal mats are laid inside the box, then another layer of vapor barrier film is laid, and the future floor can be laid with a rough floorboard. As long as the board is only tacked to the base, the finished floor can be built after the walls and ceiling have been erected.

Windows and doors of the extension

One of the most difficult steps in the construction of an extension involves the erection of the supporting pillars of the walls and ceiling. For the equipment of the load-bearing racks of a wooden extension, a bar with a section of 90×90 mm is used, preferably spruce or pine, but always of the first grade, without knots or signs of damage to the fibers.

Instead of an expensive beam, the racks can be made from a forty board. Two edged boards are knocked down at the edges with nails and loosened into blocks on a circular saw. For each pair, you need to make sizing with carpentry glue, and then dry it under pressure. From a home-made timber, you can easily make load-bearing racks, floor beams, window and door frames without any problems.

Homemade beams are installed vertically on the strapping beam and secured with braces. After alignment, the elements of the future frame are sewn together with beams of the upper and middle strapping. After assembling the racks, you need to make blanks for window and door openings.

Boxes can be built directly into the frame of the outbuilding or made separately to fit the window frames. The door latch is installed together with the door, reinforced with struts and side ligaments. If it is planned to use a plastic door and windows, then the transitional wooden frame can be immediately fixed to the frame using mounting foam.

Roof and its connection to the main roof

Before building the roof and walls of the extension, the ceiling beams must be laid. The principle of laying ceiling beams practically does not differ from the construction of lags for the floor.

Initially, the upper ceiling trim is marked for laying another layer of a wooden beam – Mauerlat, on which it will be possible to build a roof frame. Next, in the upper harness and the Mauerlat beam, you need to make cuts or cut the grooves for laying the ceiling beam.

Depending on the size of the wooden extension, the ceiling is made of timber 70×90 mm or 90×90 mm. In places of tie-in, the floor beams are attached to the upper trim with self-tapping bolts. After assembling the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat beams, after combining the sawn grooves with the protrusions of the ceiling beams, it is nailed to the upper strapping of the wooden frame of the extension.

Before constructing the roof truss frame, experts recommend hemming the ceiling with a grooved board, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, 15-18 mm thick. Ceiling filing will give the opportunity to work freely and move around the ceiling.

Common roof rafters

In order to build a common truss system for the roof of a wooden house and an extension, it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the roof covering of the adjacent slope. If an attic room is built on the second floor of the cottage, then the lower part of the rafters will need to be removed. So that the frame of the attic room does not deform, it is necessary to make several struts or stops to compensate for the pressure on the attic of the roofing pie from the opposite side.

In order to build a new slope, it is enough to replace the old rafters with new, longer and heavier ones. The upper end of the rafters rests on the auxiliary ridge bar of the attic, with the lower cut they stand on the Mauerlat of the upper trim of the extension.

To compensate for the weight of the heavier new rafters, an additional brace-reinforced support must be built under each beam. Next, a crate, cornice and wind slats are stuffed onto the rafters. If the attic is planned to be built in an insulated version, it will be necessary to build a counter-lattice and ventilation of the roofing pie.

Roof finishing and insulation

The main difficulty faced when renovating or laying a new roof covering is the limited access to the insulating and insulating materials of the top roof slope. In order to build reliable insulation and waterproofing of the roof, without cold bridges and lines of condensate leakage, it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier membranes of the upper and lower roof slopes very tightly and with high quality.

This is not easy to do. To build a single protection, it is necessary to lift the bottom row of slate or metal tiles in order to run the film under the roofing and securely glue it to the top layer of the film material.

The rest of the roll of waterproofing and vapor barrier film is rolled down the slope and fixed with the counter battens. The heater returns to its place. To prevent the redistribution of condensate from warmer layers to colder parts of the roof, the roof insulation must be built from the same material. If it is not possible to build up the enlarged plane of the new slope with a material identical to the old insulation, then it is better to replace the fiber boards throughout the roof with new mats.

In order to build the first row of roofing on the line of joining slopes, it is necessary to make a transition node. Usually it is a wooden plank cut with a wedge or a bar stuffed along the edge of the upper slope. This must be done, since the angle of inclination of the new slope, under which the extension and part of the wooden house fit, has become smaller, which means that part of the rainwater can penetrate through the junction line. To avoid leakage, the joint line is glued with polyurethane foam and bituminous mastic.

Construction and wall insulation

After the roof and ceiling have been assembled, waterproofing and insulation have been laid, it is necessary to build insulation for the walls and floor of the wooden extension. Initially, you need to check how much the geometry of the walls has changed, window and door openings have deformed under load from the weight of the truss system, insulation and ceiling. In places where the formed cracks and gaps are visible to the naked eye, it will be necessary to tighten and align the racks so that they return to their original place, this can be done with an ordinary heavy hammer and mount.

After leveling the places where the gaps have formed, they are reinforced with metal plates, if the vertical stand has led, then two additional horizontal spacers will need to be made. The walls of the wooden extension are reinforced with horizontal and side braces at the installation sites of window frames and doors.

Next, the outer surface of the extension frame is sewn up with a lath, if it is supposed to be siding, then the lath can be stuffed in 1. 5 cm increments, in other cases the surface is clogged solid. The next step is to build the insulation of the room, most often fiber mineral thermal insulation is placed in the windows-niches of wooden walls, which is glued with adhesive tape and blown with foam. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the basalt fiber.

The inside of the wall upholstery can be made of wooden lath, but most often OSB boards or plywood are used in extensions, but walls can also be clad with plasterboard or MDF panels with the same success.

To insulate the floor, you can use cheaper expanded clay backfill, the material is quite strong and durable, on its basis you can build an ideally warm base of a wooden extension. Its only drawback is the strong absorption of water, if the extension room is heated intermittently for several days, then in a month the expanded clay will become wet from condensate, and it will be extremely difficult to dry it.

Some legal issues

One of the reasons why the owners decide to build an additional building to a wooden house is a common misconception that light wooden extensions are not subject to registration with the state authorities.

In fact, the situation is ambiguous. On the one hand, the Town Planning Code states that only small structures and details of capital buildings that do not affect communications, characteristics, fire safety and load-bearing elements of the structure are classified as non-permanent buildings. These include canopies, canopies, balconies and porch groups built on the same foundation with a capital house.

It is difficult to construct an ordinary extension to a wooden house in such a way that it looks like a balcony or a porch. The only exception is an extension in the form of a porch group or a covered veranda. It is enough to declare such an extension as an explicit character. To do this, an application is submitted to the BTI to amend the passport of a wooden house. In fact, a decision will be made, on the basis of which it is possible to re-register the documents.

For all other options for an extension to a wooden house, regardless of the size, material and foundation scheme, before starting work, you will need to make a building permit, provide a package of documents and pay a fee. All that remains is to build an extension and sign an acceptance certificate at the inspection.

The package of documents includes:

• Cadastral plan,
• Passport for a wooden house;
• Site plan;
• Copies of documents of the owner;
• Extension project.

After coordination with the supervisory authorities and a positive decision of the commission, it will be possible to register the property and make changes to the technical passport.

Conclusion

It is possible to build an additional building to a wooden house without a permit. If all the norms of SNiPs for the construction of extensions are observed, then it is possible to register an unauthorized construction by a court decision. As a rule, objects with a readiness of more than 60% that do not pose a threat to the population and the environment receive a positive decision. This is not a quick and expensive business, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to build a wooden extension than to register it.

Over time, the owners of private wooden houses sometimes plan to increase the area of ​​their own home. The fastest and most reasonable way to implement this plan would be to build a frame extension to the house with your own hands. The frame is easy to erect, does not require special construction skills. If this is not a complex project, then it can be erected in a fairly short period of time. How to choose the type of frame extension to the house, what materials and what recommendations exist for each of the stages of construction.

Frame extension to a wooden house

When a frame extension to the house is being erected, the step-by-step instructions provide not only for the preparation of estimates and the coordination of the project of the future building. There are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account.

Do-it-yourself frame extension.

Before coordinating the project and building a frame extension, you need to choose what it will be and what goal is pursued by the new construction work:

1. The easiest do-it-yourself frame addition to the house in terms of implementation and costs is a summer veranda or a terrace for relaxing in the summer. Due to the seasonality of operation, the premises will not require large investments. Minus high-quality insulation, moisture-proof and heat-insulating membranes. You will also need to use high-quality terrace tiles when installing a summer kitchen. If the summer veranda is not used as a summer kitchen, then it will not be necessary to lay engineering communications at the initial stage of construction.
2. A frame extension to a wooden house can be an additional full-fledged living space in an existing dwelling – with one or more rooms. In this case, the design will require additional insulation to reduce the cost of heating the room, choosing a more solid type of foundation and carrying out moisture insulation work.
3. Addition of additional utility rooms to the old house, which will require timely and competent laying of engineering communications at the construction stage. All pipes must be carefully insulated for their further year-round use.

Note

The choice of the type of frame extension to the house is also important in order to ensure the best connection with the already built walls, foundation and roof of the old house. If you do not attach importance to the similarity of the structures of both buildings, there may be a skew or shrinkage of the house, cracks and further destruction of the structure.

Foundation selection

The type of foundation that is being built also depends on the further intended use of the frame extension. Ideally, the foundation of the main part of the house should match the extension.

Pile foundation.

The choice of a foundation for a do-it-yourself frame extension depends largely not only on the characteristics of an already erected wooden house, but also on the natural conditions and the quality of the soil at the construction site. The main list of materials used is as follows:

• Concrete.
• Brick.
• Stone.
• Wooden beams and piles.
• Metal rods.

Note

When choosing the type of foundation, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the main structures. When erecting a multi-storey or massive extension, the depth must be made by more than 700 mm.

The main types of foundation that are selected when building a frame extension with your own hands are:

1. Tape.
2. Slab.
3. Pile.
4. Columnar.
5. Pile-grillage.

Strip foundation.

If the building is planned to be two-story or massive, it is necessary to make a choice in favor of a strip foundation. When using it during the construction of a do-it-yourself frame extension, the following step-by-step instructions:

1. It is necessary to mark the territory. This is done with the help of wooden pegs and a rope stretched between them. The marking will mark the place for the trench under the future strip foundation.
2. The soil is excavated to the depth of the already installed foundation for the house itself, or to the depth necessary for the construction of an extension. The bottom of the trench must be covered with a layer of rubble. Each of the layers must be carefully compacted.
3. Formwork for pouring concrete is prepared from wooden boards. Its height should be equal to the height of the future base. An important point is that it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work around the entire perimeter of the future foundation, as well as to lay metal reinforcement to give strength.
4. A third of the installed formwork is poured with prepared concrete mortar until completely cured. Subsequently, the remaining part of the cement is poured with the removal of air bubbles using a special vibrator or tapping the formwork walls with a hammer.

Note

The top part of the grout must not only be evenly leveled, but also covered with a film to dry more thoroughly. Light wetting of the surface is recommended to prevent cracks.

Flooring installation

We found out how to attach a frame extension to the house with a high-quality foundation, now we’ll figure out how to install the floor. There are two ways to install the floor:

Wooden floor installation.

Concrete, most suitable for an extension with a strip foundation – which will provide the greatest stability of the structure. The soil inside the already installed foundation is dug to a depth of about 350 mm. The bottom of the resulting niche, as well as the foundation trench, is covered with sand and gravel, or a 20-centimeter layer of expanded clay is covered, for better insulation.

If the extension to the house is frame, then with the help of the level, beacons are installed for further pouring the cement screed of the floor, on which tiles, wooden flooring, or flooring are already laid, corresponding to the purpose of the room. It is easier to lay a floor heating system in a cement screed, if one is planned.

It will be more economical and environmentally friendly to install a wooden floor. According to it, beam ceilings are laid, installed above the waterproofing membrane. Fastening wooden beams to the foundation occurs with the help of special anchor bolts.

Corner joints of floor beams installed along the perimeter of the foundation of a frame extension to a wooden house are made according to the type of lock joints. Next, the transverse beams of the ceilings are mounted, the layers of insulation and the finishing coating of the floor of the extension are laid.

Extension installation

Video and photo reports from real objects will tell you more precisely how the frame extension is mounted to the house.

In short, the do-it-yourself frame extension to a wooden house and the most important part, its base, are mounted as follows:

• Using dowels and a perforator, wooden beams are mounted to the floor and the first wooden crowns;
• Vertical beams of the frame are installed along the perimeter of the foundation of the extension and the places where future doors will be installed, with a step of no more than 70-100 cm;
• To give strength to the frame extension, transverse floor beams are mounted;
• If it is necessary to install the second floor of the extension, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the ceilings of the first floor.

Fastening to a wooden building

One of the important points in the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house is its docking with an already built structure.

If the selected materials, the depth of the foundation or other technical characteristics do not match, then it is necessary to perform an expansion joint at the junction of the foundations of the old house and the extension.

Frame technology extension.

Work can be done in two ways:

1. Laying roofing felt between foundation parts, if their parts are even and vertical.
2. Laying of foamed polyethylene and expanded polystyrene in the joints with filling the upper part with sealant and a special closing pad.

Roof

If the simplest type of roofing is chosen – a shed, then the installation of the floors is quite fast:

• Beams are mounted at an angle – from the slope to the vertical beams of the extension with a protrusion of at least 300 mm;
• OSB sheets, plywood or frequent rows of lathing are laid for finishing installation of roofing;
• Actually, the final touch will be the installation of the selected roof – slate, iron sheets, tiles or other options;
• sheets of mineral wool placed between the rafters;
• The insulation is masked by sheathing with OSB sheets and decorative elements.

Insulation

One of the final stages of construction – the process of warming the extension to the house – also depends on the purpose of the future building. If the building is not intended for year-round use, then the most economical type of insulation is selected, or work to preserve heat indoors is not carried out at all – when choosing a summer type of construction.

Do-it-yourself insulation.

In other cases, insulation layers are laid not only during the installation of the floor and roof, but also at the stage of sheathing the frame racks with sheets of OSB boards. consisting of:

1. Internal cladding.
2. Vapor barrier membrane.
3. Insulation layer.
4. Windproof material.
5. External cladding.

Insulation of the frame extension to the house can be carried out using mineral wool from the middle price category, or more expensive ecowool, but environmentally friendly and treated against fire and.

Finish

The final stage of construction is the finishing work inside the frame extension. They depend not only on the purpose of the premises, but also on the costs that the owner of the house is willing to bear. However, when choosing an installation, one should also take into account the type of foundation laid and the reliability of the supporting beams – heavy coatings will significantly reduce them.

Do-it-yourself summer kitchen

Take a steam bath in the house in the summer, if you can spend time outdoors? Not the best idea. And cooking or spinning is even worse. It is much more pleasant and useful to spend time under a canopy or in a light, ventilated building, which many call a “summer kitchen”. Do-it-yourself summer kitchen is easy to build, especially open options. 9Ol000 with an open veranda

Open summer kitchen: views and photos

An open one is rather an open gazebo or a veranda. A very good option for the warm season. Not in all regions, even in summer, you can stay outside for a long time. Then they make closed summer kitchens – this is already a small house that can be built using any technology that seems most attractive to you.

Summer kitchen – extension

Let’s start with outdoor areas. If it is supposed to transfer the main activity to fresh air for the summer, it will be more convenient to attach the summer kitchen to the existing house. In this case, make a veranda. Most often, they open it first. The easiest way is to make a wooden extension. In a very open version, these may simply be pillars supporting the roof.

The easiest option – a few pillars supporting a light roof – a do-it-yourself summer kitchen is ready

This option is very good for the southern regions, where most of the year you can stay outside for as long as you like. For more northern regions, or if it is a house of permanent residence, it is usually decided to make the extension more closed. First they make railings, and then they often think about closing the spans with something else: they want to extend the “period of use”. As a result, the open summer kitchen becomes closed.

Open plan summer kitchen attached to the house

The most common material for this kind of outbuildings is wood. It is plastic, it forgives many mistakes that can be subsequently corrected without disassembling the structure, therefore it is easy to work even without skills. It is also light, because the foundation for a summer kitchen made of wood can be made lightweight – columnar or pile, you can – with a grillage.

The second most popular material is brick or decorative stone. In the presence of “direct” hands and the observance of technology, amateur developers can work with this material. You should not take on the construction of a house without experience, but you can try to lay down pillars and partitions for a summer kitchen.

An example of an extension to a house with brick pillars

But since even a brick or stone pillar no longer weighs a hundred kilograms or more, a more solid foundation is required for it. Considering that it will still take the load from the roof, then you will have to make pillars or piles with good bearing capacity.

Removal from the side of the house – an open terrace with a stove and barbecue

If you are thinking about putting up brick walls later, it is better to immediately pour the pile-strip foundation, and deepen the tape below the freezing depth. If this option is not suitable – the freezing depth is large or the soils do not allow, you will either have to make a monolithic slab, or abandon brick walls, making them using a different technology, even if they are of the same tree or using frame-panel technology. A self-built summer kitchen is good because, knowing all the design features to the smallest detail, you can later modernize the building.

Detached building

Some people don’t really like kitchen smells that can enter the house from an extension. Then they erect a small building at some distance from the house. The presence of summer kitchens is an almost obligatory attribute of private houses in the southern regions. Before the era of air conditioners, cooking in the heat of the room was a real torture: the high temperature “overboard”, heated walls, and even the heat from the stove – the conditions are hellish, while the rest of the rooms are also heated. That is why they made at least small detached houses-arbors, in which they put a gas stove and a cylinder with liquefied gas in the cities, in the villages they put a small stove. Some even cooked on “kirogaz” or primus.

Combined open-closed type

Modern climate technology can negate all these inconveniences, but free-standing summer kitchens are still being built. They are often still used as a guest house – having made them with an attic floor.

The cheapest option is roof poles. They can be wooden, brick or combined – consisting of a stone plinth, and the top of a bar. This is the best option from the point of view of operation: the wood is protected from the effects of most of the precipitation, and at the same time the weight is not very large.

The optimal type of pillars for an open summer kitchen

There are a lot of options for free-standing open summer kitchens. They are built according to the same type as the arbors, only, perhaps, they are large. The technology for building an open area made of bricks can be viewed here, the process of building from wood is described here.

Sometimes, they may have barbecue or barbecue areas. How to make a simple brick barbecue, read here, about a brick barbecue – here.

One of the light options

What to make the floor from

The floor in such a kitchen can be plank. It is easier to do, but many are confused that the wood will be located with little or no protection. There are two ways to solve the problem. The first is to use effective protective impregnations – such as oils or wood waxes intended for outdoor use. They do not create a shiny surface, but protect well from moisture and dirt. Using varnishes for summer kitchens is not the best idea. They begin to burst and crack, in order to renew the coating, the old one must be completely removed, while oils and wax require only thorough pre-cleaning, after drying, a fresh layer can be applied.

This terrace has been treated with Pinotex Terrace Oil

The second way is to use wood-polymer composite (WPC) instead of wood. These are boards that consist of a mixture of wood fibers and polymers. They look and feel very much like wood. The only difference is that they almost do not change size depending on humidity, however, thermal expansion is present. Such boards are called “decking” or “planken” depending on the profile of the board. There is also a “garden parquet”. This is a coating made of the same material, only assembled into panels, like parquet. They can simply be laid on the ground, without any preparation.

The terrace and the floor in the summer kitchen are made of WPC – wood-polymer composite

The advantages of WPC include a long period of operation without changing the original properties. It is calculated in tens of years, but varies greatly depending on the manufacturer. Minus – not the most democratic price. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the technology is relatively new, not yet particularly mastered, although there are Russian manufacturers of such products.

Stone or specialized tiles are more resistant to the weather, but the installation of such a floor is not an easy task. If you simply put it on a gravel-sand bedding, locking it up in the fall, the tile may crack or bounce in frost. We have to make an insulated monolithic slab, observing all the technology: with a sand and gravel layer, insulation, reinforcement, pouring concrete. The dimensions of this slab are 50-60 cm larger along the perimeter than the planned building. In general, the costs and work are serious, although it is convenient to operate.

One of the options for the floor – large concrete slabs of high grade concrete

After the time when the concrete gains strength (at least 2 weeks should pass, and this at an average temperature of +20 ° C), the coating can be laid. You can use flagstone – a stone sawn into layers, you can – porcelain stoneware, or frost-resistant tiles.

An easier option is to lay out the area with paving slabs. But this is only a summer option. But – without fuss with the foundation.

The area for the summer kitchen can be laid out with paving slabs

If a do-it-yourself summer kitchen is being built in the country, this is perhaps the best option. It turns out inexpensive and practical.

Closed summer kitchen

Those who want to have an all-season summer area for gatherings or cooking, install more permanent buildings. Most often, these are buildings using frame technology – quickly and relatively inexpensively, more expensive, but more thorough – from a log or timber.

A variant of the “framework” – racks made of timber are sheathed with clapboard

In the case of frame construction, everything is very simple: racks of timber are placed with a small step (you can even splice the boards), then they are sheathed on both sides with some kind of finishing material. What – at your choice, even clapboard – wooden or plastic, blockhouse, any other material. Inside, to save money, they often sheathe plywood, fiberboard, GVL, OSB, or something similar. If desired, it can be insulated. The frame is sheathed on one side, insulation is laid (usually mineral wool), the sheathing is mounted on the other side. You can insulate not only immediately, but after some time, you just have to remove the casing on one side.

What does the “skeleton” of a summer kitchen look like using frame technology? Such foundations are also needed for wooden buildings – from logs or timber. All the rules are the same here. It is important to find or order a project, and to assemble it is a matter of technology.

Log summer kitchen

Naturally, you can build from any other materials – from foam blocks – to brick or even rubble. It’s all about the amount that you plan or can spend on this building. The construction of foam concrete, aerated concrete, some building blocks, adobe will also be inexpensive. Cinder block, like adobe, can be made independently, so the choice of material is up to you, and then everything is built according to all the rules. With only one deviation: insulation for the summer kitchen is either not done at all, or it is made minimal. Another point – heating, as a rule, is absent, and this must also be taken into account when choosing materials for construction and decoration.

Photo report of the construction of a summer kitchen with an open veranda

A summer kitchen was built with the opportunity to “sit in the air”. Therefore, the option with an open veranda was chosen. The base of the house is assembled from a bar 200 * 200 mm, internal piers – from 150 * 100 mm. Outwardly, I like the carriage, but it is godlessly expensive, because the beam was hewn to create a similar relief.

The foundation is made columnar. Since the construction is light, the soil is normal, the posts were buried only 60 cm.

Finished foundation

The harness was assembled from a bar 200 * 200 mm. It was pre-soaked with an antiseptic. The corners were connected as usual – they made gashes. The crossbars were mounted on metal U-shaped plates. The beam was not rigidly fastened, since there will still be heaving, so that the building has the opportunity to “walk”.

Assembling the harness

The posts were made of timber 200*200 mm, internal filling of 150*100 mm.

Assembling the walls

The walls were assembled quite quickly and without problems: no cuts, just the required length of pieces of timber are nailed to the posts. The roof is gable, with a slight slope. On the one hand, the extension of the rafter legs is larger – in order to make a canopy from the side of the veranda, which will also cover from oblique rain.

After the walls were assembled, they took up the truss system.

The ceiling filing was made from unedged boards, which were then brought to mind on their own machine.

Ceiling filing with a plank This is after the frames have been painted and installed.

Design of the summer kitchen: photo

After the construction of the summer kitchen, another problem arises: it needs to be decorated. Arrangement includes not only the choice of a table and chairs, it is also necessary to organize the working area in some way, to store somewhere for the oven, which is often placed here.

Extension to a wooden house made of timber: photos and tips

09/03/2014

No wonder they say that a private house is a permanent job. And the point is not at all in the quality of the building (houses made of timber will last longer than most panel structures), but in the desire to improve your home. After the box is ready, many owners realize that they are missing something. Some decide to make an additional bathroom, others dream of a cozy veranda with access to the garden, others understand the need to build a garage on the site, and still others want to move the kitchen to a separate room. After all, it is nice to have not only a working area for cooking, but also a comfortable dining room that can accommodate a good dozen guests. An extension to a wooden house must be carried out by professionals, because depending on the functional purpose of the premises, its construction and arrangement can seriously differ.

Garage extension to a wooden house

Usually the decision to make a garage on the site comes to the owner of a country house after purchasing a car. Often, the vehicle appears in the family after the building is fully built. There are several ways to implement an extension.

Let’s look at the basic rules for creating an extension garage. Practice shows that it is most convenient to arrange a car house to the right or left of the house: if you attach a garage to the main building, you will get all the benefits of a built-in space. You can access your car directly from the main building, as well as easily let down all communications.

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a place for a garage is the distance from the entrance. Ideally, the garage should be directly opposite the main gate. Another important condition is the remoteness of the garage from residential premises. Alas, exhaust gases and other specific odors can enter the house if the garage is an extension.

An important condition is the presence of two exits from the garage. The first of them is the main gate through which the car will leave the building. The second exit should lead to the house. This allows residents to get into the extension, bypassing the street. Especially saves the internal entrance to the garage in bad weather: there is no need to overcome the path in the rain or snowfall.

Creating an extension to a wooden house has practically no consequences. If you decide to attach a room for a car to a brick house, then there is a high risk of cracks and distortions of the walls, problems with the foundation bond may appear. In the case of wooden construction, all these problems are minimized: timber construction is much lighter than concrete slabs and brick walls.

Extension of a veranda to a wooden house

Often, having already moved into a brand new wooden mansion, the owners of the house realize that they lack a spacious veranda with access to the garden. The extension of the veranda is not a super difficult task: any professional builder will cope with such a contract in a short time. However, before starting the construction of an additional room, you need to decide for yourself why exactly you need a veranda.

If you plan to use the new premises solely for the purpose of outdoor recreation, then it is enough to attach an open terrace. If the veranda should also become an additional insulation, then the extension must be reliably insulated. This will not only make the microclimate of the house more comfortable, but also organize a room for year-round gatherings: a warmed veranda is suitable for relaxing at any time of the year. Such an extension project to a wooden house should be carried out by a high-class professional, because he will face an extremely difficult task: how to make the room as warm as possible in winter, while getting maximum fresh air in summer.

An important issue that the owner of the premises must decide before starting work is the choice of material from which the veranda will be built. Naturally, the structure should look harmonious, therefore, when building a veranda, it is recommended to use the same type of wood and roofing materials as in the construction of the main building.

Creating a veranda involves completing a whole list of mandatory items and choosing materials – this is only the first position from an extensive list of cases. We list the list of mandatory works and briefly explain each of them.

One of the most time-consuming stages is the creation of a project plan and its legalization. The plan should be created by a professional, taking into account the features of the landscape and the design of the main building.

Further, the specialists who will erect the structure will face the following tasks: they need to break and mark the area on the site, and then pour the foundation. Once the foundation is ready, it’s time to create a subfloor. Is the base ready? So it’s time to start creating the frame of the veranda and installing the roofing pie. In fact, the veranda is ready – it remains to complete the finishing work, which includes lining the walls, ceiling, as well as installing windows and doors.

Kitchen extension to a wooden house

In the first part of the text, we talked about non-residential outbuildings: a garage and a veranda, which, by the way, may look like a summer gazebo, do not require as many communications as an extension for a kitchen or bathroom. What is special about these buildings? Let’s consider further.

The room for the kitchen must be warm. Therefore, it is recommended to use foam blocks or bricks as materials for construction. It is worth remembering that for the construction of a building made of such materials, it is required to have a reliable foundation. If you plan to build a kitchen out of bricks, then you need a reliable mortar, but the blocks can be easily laid on a special glue, which will take noticeably less time. If you chose foam blocks as the main material, then it is important to remember their shortcomings. One of them is the need to accurately calculate the dew point, as well as the need to protect the room from freezing.

To attach a foam block kitchen to a house made of timber, reinforcement is required. Installation is the following operation: every three rows it is necessary to cut three by three centimeters in size. The depth of this groove should be five centimeters. Reinforcement is inserted into this hole, which is then filled with adhesive. A hole is drilled in the wooden wall of the main building, into which reinforcement is inserted. After that, concrete is poured into the holes. Thanks to this method of fastening, the main building and the annex have the maximum number of joints, which guarantees a minimum level of shrinkage.

The second way to add a kitchen is a frame construction method. First you need to take measurements to calculate the required amount of materials. After that, you can start building the foundation. For frame construction, a columnar or shallow foundation, as well as piles, is suitable. If you have already prepared the foundation, then you can begin to assemble the frame. Important: do not forget to treat the frame elements with antiseptics. Bolts, screws and nails can be used as fasteners. The final stage of work is the installation of the roof and cutting through the windows. After that, the frame is sewn up. The final is the decoration of the room.

Experts agree that the extension of the kitchen must be warm. Therefore, it is better to use brick for its construction. In second place in popularity are aerated concrete and aerated concrete blocks. Also, timber can be used as a material.

Extension of a bathroom to a wooden house

Another common type of extension is a bathroom. Experts recommend using a strip foundation as the basis for such a room. Its creation can take a whole month, but subsequent work will take noticeably less time – just a week. A warm extension to a wooden house is usually built from thermoblocks, followed by the installation of a roof. It is important to remember that both the roof and the wall of the future bathroom must be insulated. After the box is ready, a sewerage system and water are brought to it. A professional should be engaged in the design and construction of a bathroom, because in the course of creating such an extension, it is necessary to correctly calculate the depth of freezing of the earth, as well as the level of thermal insulation of the room.

What materials can be used for the outbuilding?

In addition to the materials described above, an extension to a wooden house can be made from:

• – timber;
• – sip panels.

What are the advantages of these materials?

Sip panels are characterized by ease of installation, high thermal insulation properties, and lightness. The use of such material allows you to significantly save on the creation of the foundation.

The advantages of timber should include its naturalness, and, consequently, environmental friendliness. Another distinctive feature of the material is its high thermal insulation properties. It should be noted that the timber extension does not need additional decorative trim.

Timber house: a home that can be improved

As you can see, creating an extension to a wooden house is not a serious problem. If a professional team of designers and builders cooperates with you as performers, then the house can be gradually built up. In addition to the veranda, bathroom, garage and kitchen, additional rooms can be attached to a country dwelling. This is a more time-consuming and responsible job: after all, the requirements for heat and sound insulation of a living space are much higher than those of a kitchen or, especially, a summer veranda.

Remember that it is important to invite not only an experienced contractor, but also to purchase quality materials. The presence of a reliable foundation, a solid roof and walls of the main building will allow the extension to become a full-fledged part of the house made of timber, which will serve you for many years.

How to start an extension to a private house with your own hands

24.07.2022 16:48

Need an extension to the house? Perhaps you want to expand the veranda or build a summer kitchen? Or have you bought a car and decided to create a cozy home for it? Then this article will help make your dream come true and tell you how to make an extension to the house with your own hands.

What to do before buying building materials?

Before going to the construction hypermarket, you need to take care of the following:

• clearly imagine the extension;
• think about communications;
• decide on the foundation;
• think over the walls;
• consider the location of windows, if needed;
• what material to lay the roof;
• create a project;
• get permission.

If you are short on finances and cannot immediately buy building materials, in order to save money, it is worth following the previous points. After obtaining permission, no one will push you. Plan the work into stages and purchase materials according to the stage.

Outbuilding

If you still don’t know what you want, but you have an empty corner of the house on your plot? Stand in front of you and think about what you need the most: a room, a garage, a kitchen, a gym, etc.

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But, in any case, do not attach a bath or sauna. Such things are built separately. Otherwise, your house will simply become damp. There are projects that are allowed, but their implementation will cost a lot.

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As soon as we have decided on the extension, we move on to the next item.

Communications

These include sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, etc.
Light is a must, but many do not think about water and gas. But in vain. Imagine that you are building a garage. This is not only a home for the car, but also your mini-workshop. Now imagine how you spent half a day poking around in grease and gasoline, and then go through the whole house to relieve yourself and wash your hands.
If everything is fixable with need, then for the sake of hygiene it is worth taking care of a small sink for washing hands. If you don’t want to, then you can use the “rural” option. Water is poured into a special canister for consumer needs. Below or on the side there is a special tap that holds water in the canister.
And if you don’t need gas in your garage, heating won’t hurt. In severe frosts, cars and in the garage freeze. Yes, it works best in a warm environment. Of course, during the work you can put heaters. But they will give voltage to electricity, so the same welding machines will have to be used by turning off the heat source.
It is better to install a radiator and connect it to the general heating system, or install a small boiler in which you can burn garbage, firewood, special briquettes.
If this is a kitchen or an additional room, then it is better to install radiators or a stove, depending on what serves as the main source of heating. Well, wiring is a must. Every building needs lighting. Extension cords are not an option. They serve as a source of short circuits and fires.
If you need an additional bathroom, then in addition to light, there should be heating, a water supply system and a sewerage system for draining water.

Foundation

Before starting work, it is necessary to bring all the necessary communications to the site of the future extension.
There are four types of foundations:

1. Pile;
2. Columnar;
3. Tape;
4. Slab.

By depth:

• Shallow;
• Deep buried.

The type is determined based on soil freezing data. The foundation is laid below the freezing layer of the earth. Such data should be indicated in the project of the house itself.
Also in the project there should be information about the type of foundation of the house itself. Ideally, the same is laid on the extension.

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If it is not possible to lay the same one as at home, then you need to consult with the master. He will tell you what type of foundation for the extension will be compatible with the foundation of the house itself.

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Do not forget about waterproofing. Foundation waterproofing is a set of measures aimed at protecting against water, dampness, ice.
If you ignore the fortification, then the coming winter and spring will destroy the foundation. And he is a key pillar of the house. Consequently, the house will begin to warp and crack.
Waterproofing is of two types:

• protection of the concrete itself;
• covering the foundation with waterproofing materials.

Concrete protection

To avoid the hassle of cladding, you need a special foundation mix. It in itself retains heat, does not let in cold, does not freeze and repels moisture. The whole problem is that such a concrete mixture is difficult to get. And in some areas it is not possible at all. You can’t cook on your own either. So the mixture itself will be expensive.
Therefore, it is easier to choose the second type of waterproofing. It consists of two stages:

1. Vertical;
2. Horizontal.

Types of vertical waterproofing

1. Coating

This is the most affordable and simple type. The corners are rounded, the foundation is sheathed with fiberglass reinforcing mesh. After that, the frame is smeared with several layers of bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mixture or mastic.
Cons – lack of protection against blurring. The service life is 10-15 years.

2. Penetrating

Such protection is not only external, but also internal strengthening of the foundation. For waterproofing, a cement-quartz mortar with active additives is used. The mixture is applied to a wet foundation with a layer of 3-5 mm, and penetrates to a depth of 5 cm. The solution is applied inside and out, which ensures good tightness of the foundation on both sides. The most interesting thing is that each contact of water strengthens the waterproofing.
Cons – the mixture is very expensive and not suitable for foundations made of porous concrete materials.

3. Pasting

This is the most versatile and cheapest way. It will require a primer and film / tape material for gluing.

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Ruberoid was popular in the Soviet years. Progress has gone ahead and today other materials for gluing are available: hydrostekloizol, stekloizol, technoelast, steklomast.

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As a rule, roughnesses are ground with a primer, it also enhances the adhesive function of materials.
Cons – this type of waterproofing is not for every season. Before gluing, you need to wait a few days until the foundation is completely dry. If you are caught in the rainy season, construction will be up before the start of the dry week.

4. Screen waterproofing

Recognized as the most reliable protection. The screen not only protects against moisture, but also serves as thermal insulation and reinforcement. The service life of such a foundation is unlimited. The maximum will need to update the lining, which will fade and thin over time.
Bentonite mats or clay concrete slabs serve as a foundation screen.
Cons – expensive materials, self-plating without building education is impossible. Unprofessionalism will lead to critical errors that are difficult and expensive to fix.

Horizontal waterproofing

It is also called cut-off. If the vertical one serves to protect the foundation itself, then the horizontal one also protects the load-bearing walls from fungus, freezing and dampness.
Made from pasting or penetrating materials. The materials are the same as in the vertical insulation. They are superimposed (lubricated) in several layers on the foundation before pouring the floor.

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Approved standards for foundation waterproofing can be studied in the document “Foundations of buildings and structures” SP 22.13330.2016.

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But, if you are going to attach a garage, then the foundation is not needed. It is enough to dig and sheathe a hole for repair work and insulate and fill the floors well.
Also, it is important to understand that the new foundation is not just built next to the old one. It is attached to the foundation of the house with reinforcement and special seams. These actions will not give a strong shrinkage and securely attach the extension to the house.

Walls

Do you think the hardest part is the foundation? You are wrong. Walls play an important role in construction. And in the extension, it is also important to attach them correctly.
Attach them in three ways

1.

Expansion joints

First, several vertical holes are cut from the foundation to the roof, 5-6 cm deep. They are called expansion joints. Next, the wall begins to be laid. After these holes are filled with elastic bands, polystyrene foam, acrylic or silicone. And external cracks can be filled with mounting foam.

2. Reinforced

Several holes are drilled in the wall of the house, 25-30 cm deep on one side and on the other. Enough for 2-3 such holes. Concrete, cement or adhesive mortar is poured into it. Reinforcement 50-60 cm is taken and driven all the way into the hole. After the mixture has completely dried, laying the wall begins.

3. Frame

The method is complex and costly, but very reliable. With the help of metal bars and electric gas welding, a strong frame is built. Then the walls are laid.
As soon as you have decided on the method of attaching the extension to the house, you need to take care of the convenient location of doors and windows. After that, you can start laying the walls.

If you do not pay attention to the walls, then the extension will shrink over time, which will cause cracks. Water, dust will clog in them, they will begin to expand. There will be pressure on the windows and doors, they will burst. Because of this, the room will warp and collapse. And it’s good if only the extension suffers, but it can damage the house itself. And this will already lead to large-scale construction work and large cash costs.
Outbuilding walls are made of:

• plywood, OSD;
• timber;
• brick;
• foam block.
• monolithic blocks.

Depending on the chosen material, the wall will consist of several more layers:

1. Waterproofing and heat-saving. These are rolled, lubricating, penetrating materials.
2. Interior decoration. For example, gypsum board, plaster, etc.
3. Decorative trim. This is tiling, wallpaper, liquid wallpaper, paint.

Roof

There are many building materials on the market for roofing. Slate is the last century. But if you have a dozen good sheets of slate lying around somewhere, why waste good?
Usually the roof of the extension is made the same as that of the house itself. However, if the house has a sloped roof, no one will stop you from building a flat one. But it has a significant disadvantage – rainwater stagnates on the surface until it dries completely. And the snow will not lie until warm days. Therefore, it will have to be repaired more often.
The roof also consists of several layers:

1. Ceiling beams;
2. Floor covering.
3. Insulation and waterproofing layer;
4. Frame for sheathing;
5. Waterproof film, which is fastened with beams;
6. Tiling.

The roof is laid to all standards and serves as protection for the entire extension. If you lay it anyhow, then it will let moisture through, freeze. Over time, the ceiling and walls will begin to deteriorate. As a result, the premises will need a major overhaul.

Extension project

After you have thought out the future building to the smallest detail, you need to transfer your imagination to the control project and make an estimate for building materials.
You can prepare it yourself using 3D applications on your computer. Then take the electronic version to the printing house and print it on paper of the desired size.
If you do not consider yourself an engineer, then contact a construction company or find a specialist who specializes in the development of projects for houses and other structures.

Approval

This is the last step before building the extension. Of course, if at the stage of building a house in the project there was an item and markings for a specific extension, then you can go to the store and purchase according to the estimate.
When creating a house plan, calculations of the required amount of building materials are attached, plus possible risks are taken into account.
If an extension is not registered in the project of the house, then you need to obtain a building permit.

What happens if you build an extension without a permit?

And there will be the following:

1. Sudden check for the object. It can be planned or denounced by envious neighbors.
2. Requirement to provide a project and building permit for a house, along with documents confirming identity and ownership.
3. According to the project, there is only one house, but in fact it has an extra detail. Questions will arise, and the requirement to provide permission for an extension.
4. Through courts and disputes, the commission recognizes the extension as illegal. In the best case, you will pay a fine and go to receive documents for an already finished building. At worst, if the extension violates the rights of neighbors, is unacceptable or emergency, it will be asked to be demolished.

Just imagine what will be the losses and wasted nerves. In addition, every year the punishment for illegal construction is tougher. Most often, the fine for ordinary citizens is unbearable. If the extension caused damage to a neighbor or area, then you can get a criminal penalty.
It’s better to do everything at once and sleep peacefully than to be afraid all your life.

Where and how to get permission?

A document that allows any construction and reconstruction work to be carried out on the site is issued by the local administration.
If you live in a village where this organization does not exist, you need to go to the city to which the village is attached.
A specific office where permits are dealt with can be found by phone, or at the checkpoint in the building itself.
And in order to get an appointment and get permission, you need to provide the following documents:

• passport – original and copy;
• extract from the USRN or house book;
• site plan, house plan;
• a document confirming the right to property. This is a deed of gift, a contract of sale, a power of attorney, an inheritance.
• written consent of all adult owners if your house is divided into shares;
• project of the future extension. It can be ordered from a construction company or compiled independently.

After that, a building permit will be requested from other special services: power engineers, gas workers, water utilities.
Permit is prepared from 5 to 21 working days. It all depends on the location, the correctness of the documents and the condition of the house itself. It may be necessary to adjust the extension project for some reason.
As soon as the document falls into the hands of the owner, construction can begin.

Conclusion

How to start an extension to a private house with your own hands? From design, budgeting for materials, obtaining permission. An extension to a house is just as important as the construction of the house itself. To build an additional room, it is necessary to understand in detail the types and compatibility of foundations, methods of attachment to the house, and the features of the construction of the roof. It can be built with your own hands without a building education, but at some points you will need the advice of a master. An extension erected without a permit is subject to demolition and a fine on the owner.

Gazebo with a summer kitchen, barbecue and barbecue with your own hands: projects with photos

In good weather, it’s nice to spend time outdoors. An ideal option for the warm season would be a gazebo with a summer kitchen. Here you can not only relax, but also cook, make preparations. For frying meat, you can install a barbecue or barbecue. You can make such a gazebo-kitchen with your own hands by choosing one of the many projects. We will tell you in the article how to choose a project, what to build a gazebo with a summer kitchen and how to equip a brazier.

Content

1. Summer kitchens with a gazebo of
2. Brick
3. Wooden
4. Metal
5. Advantages and disadvantages of
6. Disassium 9000
7. Councils of an expert on the construction of summer kitchen with a gazebo 9000 9000 9000 how foundation
8. Construction of the frame of the gazebo
9. Installation of the roof
10. Features of the barbecue equipment

Varieties of summer kitchens with a gazebo

According to the architectural design and area, the gazebo with a summer kitchen can be absolutely anything. It all depends on the area of ​​​​the site, the architecture of the house, the desire and financial capabilities of the owner. It should be noted that the minimum recommended extension area is 4×2 meters. In terms of style, the gazebo should be in harmony with the main building, but there are interesting options when the gazebo is made in a completely different architectural style, different from the style of the house, but at the same time fits well into the landscape of the site.

If you decide to make a gazebo with a summer kitchen with your own hands without the involvement of designers and architects, then it is better to stop at the simplest option, in which the gazebo is fully consistent with the style and finish of the house. At the same time, the material from which the extension frame will be made may differ from that from which the walls of the main structure are built.

Depending on the material used for the construction of the frame, the following types of arbors are distinguished

Brick

Brick gazebo with summer kitchen – suitable for a cottage made of brick or with ceramic cladding. During the construction of the gazebo, supporting pillars are laid out with bricks and the spans between them are filled by 1/2 of the height. The upper parts of the spans can be partially or completely glazed and then a closed veranda will be obtained or left without filling. If necessary, the brick can be replaced with any cellular blocks: aerated concrete, foam concrete, silicate.

Advantages:

• high strength and structural stability;
• fire safety, fire resistance;
• minimum requirements for finishing;
• the structure does not require regular maintenance and renovation.

The disadvantages of a brick extension include a relatively high cost and the need to make a good load-bearing foundation. The brick has a fairly large weight, so even a small gazebo will require a wide strip or slab foundation, which must necessarily be connected into a single structure with the base of the house. 9Ol000 Yecilinder logs

3.53%

Monolithic house

3. 94%

House from foam blocks

3.72%

House from SIP panels

9000. 3.3%

voted: 3601

Wooden

Wood is an eco-friendly material that is great for a light gazebo with a summer kitchen. A wooden extension is combined with a house made of timber or a cottage lined with wooden clapboard. For construction, edged boards, profiled and non-profiled timber, less often rounded timber are used. It is better to choose wood that has undergone chamber drying. In this case, the shrinkage of the extension will be minimal.

Advantages:

• simple design, easy assembly;
• minimum load on the house wall and foundation;
• sustainable, attractive.

The disadvantages of a wooden gazebo are the need to regularly treat wood with antiseptics and paints and varnishes, as well as low fire safety. If it is planned to install a barbecue inside the gazebo with a summer kitchen, then the organization of thermal protection must be approached as responsibly as possible. We will talk about the features of an extension equipped with a barbecue or barbecue below.

Metal

The metal extension harmonizes well with half-timbered houses, loft and fusion cottages. The metal is painted in any color, which allows you to create unusual color schemes. For construction, metal structures that have undergone anti-corrosion treatment are selected. Self-treatment with anticorrosion is possible. The easiest and cheapest way to make a gazebo frame with your own hands is to take metal pipes with a diameter of up to 100-120 mm. The pipes are connected by welding.

Advantages:

• strength, durability;
• does not require regular maintenance;
• high fire safety.

Sergey Fedorov

Construction of houses, extensions, terraces and verandas.

Ask a question

The disadvantage of a metal extension lies in the technology of its construction: the elements are connected by welding, which requires equipment and professional skills.

How comfortable and safe are gazebos with a summer kitchen and a barbecue, the project of which involves its extension to the house? The extension has several key advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account before starting construction.

Benefits include:

1. Easy installation. An open gazebo does not have load-bearing walls, the roof rests on the main wall of the house, to which a summer kitchen is attached.
2. Functionality. In the gazebo you can equip a recreation area, a dining room, a summer kitchen. You can also install a barbecue, oven, barbecue or tandoor.
3. Buffer at the entrance to the house. The extension acts as a buffer between the street and the house. Thanks to the veranda, the house retains heat better.
4. Aesthetics. A gazebo with a summer kitchen is a decoration of the site, giving the building a complete look and a special style.
5. Access to communications. From the house to the annex, you can easily conduct light, water supply.

The gazebo with a summer kitchen attached to the house has few shortcomings:

1. The need to connect the foundations of the house and the extension.
2. Compliance with the general style – the building must be combined with the existing architecture and landscaping.
3. Financial costs – the cost of a summer kitchen will be from 5 to 15% of the estimated cost of building a cottage.

In any case, a gazebo with a summer kitchen is a useful and frequently used building. In order for the extension to serve for many years and not disappoint the owners, you need to be smart about choosing a project.

Projects of a summer kitchen with an arbor

A project of a summer kitchen with an arbor under one roof means a plan that indicates the size of the building, the slope of the roof, the type of frame and filling, decor elements. The choice of summer residents and owners of country houses is presented with many projects of extensions, from which you can choose the one that you like and suits you. What to look for when choosing a gazebo project with a summer kitchen?

• Type of building: open or closed. An open gazebo-veranda is simpler in execution, but it does not protect from the wind:

The closed structure has glazing or wickerwork, which protects well from wind and sunlight:

• Area. The extension can be large, spacious, on which there will be a barbecue, furniture for relaxing and cooking, household appliances:

Or you can make a small, compact gazebo for several people:

• Location. Relative to the house, the extension can be located on the side of the facade. In this case, the building will play the role of a vestibule in front of the entrance to the house:

If the house has two entrances, the extension can go to the backyard. This is convenient if the facade faces a busy street or a not too picturesque landscape:

A convenient location option is the L-shaped extension. Such a structure is well zoned, separating places for recreation and cooking:

An extension can have a large area due to its complex shape. For example, the area of ​​the U-shaped veranda is quite large, but the building looks compact:

Expert advice on building a summer kitchen with a gazebo

It is not difficult to build a gazebo with a turnkey summer kitchen on your own. Before starting construction, we recommend that you read the advice of a specialist for each stage of work.

How to pour the foundation

The rule applies here: the foundation of the extension must be of the same type as the foundation under the house. The foundations of both structures must be connected with a rigid clip or damping joint. If there is a pile foundation under the house, a strip foundation is made under the gazebo, which is connected to the grillage or basement of the house.

Stages of construction of the strip foundation for the summer kitchen-outbuilding:

1. The foundation of the house is dug out and a trench for the strip foundation is laid next to it.
2. Reinforcement with an allowance for a rigid connection is installed in the foundation of the house.
3. Formwork is installed in the trench, the cushion is filled for shrinkage.
4. Concrete is poured into the formwork with concreting of reinforcement allowances.
5. After curing, the formwork is dismantled, the foundation strip is lined with waterproofing.

Arbor frame construction

Arbor frame consists of load-bearing supports, between which spans are located. Bearing supports are installed on the ground or logs, if the extension provides for a floor device. The supports are fastened to each other from below and from above, forming two crowns. Wooden supports are fastened with dowel-nails, metal – by welding. The distance between the bearing supports is from 1.5 to 2.5 meters. The spans are filled in according to the project or left blank.

Installation of the roof

It is better to make the roof of the gazebo with a summer kitchen lean-to with a wooden truss system. For metal frames, it is advisable not to make rafters, but trusses – rod metal structures. The rafters are covered with a crate on top; a crate is not needed for trusses. Then the roofing is installed. According to the type of material, color, the roof of the extension must exactly repeat the roof of the main building. Lastly, a drainage system is installed.

Features of barbecue equipment

When constructing a stationary barbecue, barbecue or stove in the gazebo, it is important to follow fire safety rules

1. The installation site is chosen as far as possible from the house or at least its residential part and the location of people.
2. The smoke from the barbecue or stove must be removed naturally, the structure must not be located near the windows or the load-bearing wall of the house.
3. The floor under the brazier must be thermally insulated – laid out with fireclay bricks, metal sheets or other refractory material.
4. Next to the stove, a place for storing firewood should be provided, the firewood rack should hold at least 0. 5 cubic meters of firewood.
5. The brazier should be well lit, therefore, in case of insufficient natural light, consider options for installing artificial light.
6. It is obligatory to have a fire extinguisher near the brazier, placed in accordance with the rules for its storage.

A gazebo with a summer kitchen is sure to become a favorite place for your family and friends to relax, if done correctly and safely!

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10 Will there be a drainage system?

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11 What material is on (floor, ceiling, inside and outside walls)?

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12Insulation thickness/without insulation?

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13 Are there partitions (with/without door)?

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14 Will there be a front door? What, if any: metal, wood, PVC?

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15Will there be windows (dimensions, number, material)?

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16Entrance group (steps, handrails, porch, dimensions)?

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17 Is the door made in the adjoining wall?

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18 Is the adjoining wall finished and with what?

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19 Do you need any demolition work?

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20Will there be paint work?

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21Construction address?

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22Availability of housing for workers?

The fact is that the builders are from Novgorod and there is no way to come and leave.