Painting a new plaster wall: How To Paint New Plaster Walls And Ceilings
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i have made significant indoor plaster repairs (as i calculated it was simpler and cheaper than framing + DW) and now i need to paint it.
the question is: what should i do to prep it for the paint? is regular primer OK or should i use something else (or in addition and in which order). i have heard some emulsion is needed but i am not very familiar.
thanks
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– Must be brit- there ar different products over there- but best I know a good acrylic primer /sealer ( like zinsser 123) would work fine for priming- but somewhat depends on what you intend for final finish.
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Brushjockey said:
– Must be brit- there ar different products over there- but best I know a good acrylic primer /sealer ( like zinsser 123) would work fine for priming- but somewhat depends on what you intend for final finish.
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I am in the U.S. — it’s just that the house is old. I want just a regular wall that is painted like the most regular wall. flat enamel, white.
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You using the word emulsion rather than latex -is very brit- that’s why I thought.
If you did plaster repair with modern materials ( like setting muds and joint compound) there is no problem priming right on them.
However old style limed plaster needs to be either aged or neutralized. And they do still use that over there.
Prime and 2 coats and your good to go.
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i used the old-fashioned plaster recipe. for the initial two coats, i mixed 2.5x masonry sand with 1x hydraulic lime. for the finish coat, i used 1x of the same lime and 1.5x of really fine sand (quickrete makes it and was really hard to find — had to go to a material store in B.F. Egypt to get it).
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First q- why..I have repaired miles of plaster with the other stuff..
But now you will have to neutralize- Haven’t needed to do it ( in almost 35 years..) but I think vinegar will do it. Some chemist will be stopping by..
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why? because someone told me. there is very little info on plaster repair out there since the technology is outdated
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The heavy lime concentrate plaster needs an oil based primer from what I have always been told AND needs to dry for 30 days before you paint it.
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Matthewt1970 said:
The heavy lime concentrate plaster needs an oil based primer from what I have always been told AND needs to dry for 30 days before you paint it.[/QUOTE]
at the minimum
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amakarevic said:
i used the old-fashioned plaster recipe.
for the initial two coats, i mixed 2.5x masonry sand with 1x hydraulic lime. for the finish coat, i used 1x of the same lime and 1.5x of really fine sand (quickrete makes it and was really hard to find — had to go to a material store in B.F. Egypt to get it).
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quote” I am in the U.S. “
I have not had my coffee yet( not allowed, off topic) but what am I missing here?:huh:
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as usual- the humour ( see what i did there! – probably not..)
:laughing:
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amakarevic said:
i have made significant indoor plaster repairs (as i calculated it was simpler and cheaper than framing + DW) and now i need to paint it.
the question is: what should i do to prep it for the paint? is regular primer OK or should i use something else (or in addition and in which order). i have heard some emulsion is needed but i am not very familiar.
thanks
Click to expand.
..
Hmmm…you’re probably not aware of it, but you bring up a plethora of issues that just don’t get addressed all that often anymore. Plaster, unfortunately, is not a common building material anymore (at least in most areas of the U.S.) due to the labor-intensive expense of application – plus all the other eccentricities and behavior characteristics of a substrate that can sometimes be “difficult” to hold paint over long periods of time.
To begin, plaster is a highly alkaline, masonry/cementitious coating that will require 30 days to cure before priming/painting. When plaster was a more common building material, the only primer recommended was an oil based product since latexes (of that time) were pretty much guaranteed to burn and peel shortly after application. Back in that day, painters/craftsmen used to size new plaster with a product called “Adhesium” glue size – a clear wall size that, when applied to fresh plaster, would turn pink if the plaster was still too hot to paint. This told the painter that either more cure time was necessary – or more prep was needed before applying oil based prime coat (while the “Adhesium” trade name is owned and used by the Muralo Company, I don’t think the original glue size is even made anymore).
Since that time, paints have changed dramatically and the recommended products have pretty much done a 180 degree role reversal. Oil based paints (back then) were more oil – and much less alkyd than they are today. Modern day “oil based paints” are actually more alkyd and less oil, and don’t work particularly well on plaster if there is any degree of moisture present (which there always is with plaster – remember, it is a cementitous surface containing soluble salts that hold water)…Alkyds applied to an alkaline surface, with moisture present, will result in saponification (making soap) that causes alkyds to peel in sheets.
At the same time, latexes have changed even more dramatically. Back then, latex paints were pretty lousy products. They had a hard enough time adhering to innocuous, inert surfaces – let alone the more “difficult” surfaces such as plaster. The “latex” products of today don’t even use the same type of resins that were used back then – the only similarities are their ability to dry fast and clean up with soap and water. Todays acrylics have outstanding adhesion, and are pretty alkali resistant (that’s not to say surface prep isn’t necessary for new plaster)…and today’s acrylic primers hold their purchase to new plaster far longer than the old oil based products from many years ago.
So…to finally answer your question, allow your plaster to dry 30 days. After 30 days, your plaster should be hard and relatively slick. I’ve always believed the best prep for plaster is to scuff sand with medium grit paper, followed by sponging the surface with a mild vinegar solution. Unfortunately, the vinegar solution then needs to be neutralized with clean water and allowed to dry before priming. The vinegar wash neutralizes surface alkalinity – plus slightly profiles the hard plaster for better adhesion of the prime coat. A vinegar etch may be unnecessary, but it’s easily applied and may actually prevent problems down the road.
There are many brands of acrylic primers that can be used for new plaster (and there are other types of primers beside acrylics that will work) – Zinsser makes BullsEye 123 (acrylic – my recommendation), or Cover Stain (modified oil), or BIN (pigmented shellac)…each would work, and each can be found in most paint stores or hardwares. Talk to your local independent dealer for his recommendation of product brand that’d work best in your application – and good luck.
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ric’s always good for the straight up info! there you go.
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Zinsser claims that Gardz has a high alkalinity resistance and can be applied to fresh plaster within days. What is your opinion of that Ric, and does that mean it would be a barrier for a latex or oil topcoat? By the way, good to see you.
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Hey Ric you been on vacation.
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jsheridan said:
Zinsser claims that Gardz has a high alkalinity resistance and can be applied to fresh plaster within days. What is your opinion of that Ric, and does that mean it would be a barrier for a latex or oil topcoat? By the way, good to see you.
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Personally, I would not do it, no matter what they said:whistling2:
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jsheridan said:
Zinsser claims that Gardz has a high alkalinity resistance and can be applied to fresh plaster within days. What is your opinion of that Ric, and does that mean it would be a barrier for a latex or oil topcoat? By the way, good to see you.
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Hiya Joe…
Thanks for the welcome back – unfortunately, I’m gonna be in and out pretty sporadically over the next couple-o-weeks…(sigh – I’m counting the days until retirement. As of today, there are only 36,000 days to go).
Anyway, Zinsser claims you can apply Gardz over new plaster with only 24 hours dry time. My common sense side says to wait a tad bit longer, but Zinsser and Rustoleum make some bold statements regarding their products and they seem to know what they’re doing, so…and, if that’s true, it would work as a barrier coat for an alkyd topcoat to – theoretically – provide the necessary protection to stave off saponification)…
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ric knows paint said:
Hiya Joe…
Thanks for the welcome back – unfortunately, I’m gonna be in and out pretty sporadically over the next couple-o-weeks…(sigh – I’m counting the days until retirement. As of today, there are only 36,000 days to go).
Anyway, Zinsser claims you can apply Gardz over new plaster with only 24 hours dry time. My common sense side says to wait a tad bit longer, but Zinsser and Rustoleum make some bold statements regarding their products and they seem to know what they’re doing, so.
..and, if that’s true, it would work as a barrier coat for an alkyd topcoat to – theoretically – provide the necessary protection to stave off saponification)…
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very diplomatic:wink:
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Matthewt1970 said:
The heavy lime concentrate plaster needs an oil based primer from what I have always been told AND needs to dry for 30 days before you paint it.
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what needs to dry 30 days, the plaster or the primer?
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As far as I know- I would trust ric’s info- he is the closest thing to an informed chemist we have here..
He isn’t one, but knows several I think- and works with them often.
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Sanding newly plastered walls prior to painting?
Akshay
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#1
Can I simply use an appropriate grade sanding block or should I be using something else? I was watching 60min makeover the other week and one of the guys was using a sanding sheet on the end of a stick to do a wall – is that common and where can I get that?
joe-90
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#2
If they are newly plastered they don’t need sanding. You’ll ruin the surface if you do and then they’ll need plastering again.
roughcaster
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joe-90 said:
If they are newly plastered they don’t need sanding. You’ll ruin the surface if you do and then they’ll need plastering again.
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Nicely put Joe, and very true.
Akshay
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#4
No I meant once the plaster had dried after a few days as there a few imperfections in places.
roughcaster
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#5
If there are some minor imperfections on the surface of the plaster, the best thing to do is give the wall/s a “mist coat of white “matt” emulsion”, and then use a “fine filler” to touch up any blemishes,,, and then gently sand them down, using a fine sandpaper, (150 grit or so). If you use a rough sandpaper, you’ll scratch the wall surface. As i said, it’s always better to mist paint the surface first. Once you have mist painted, patched and sanded the wall surface, you’re then ready to give the wall/s the coats of your chosen coloured emulsion.
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#6
Here is the sanding head that you refered to
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODSPSH/
I tried one years ago but didn’t like it, too much like hard work.
I prefer to work off raised platorms and use my electric sanders.
If money is no object then buy one of these
http://www.festool.co.uk/Products/P…pid=583477&name=PLANEX-LHS-225-EQ-Set-GB-240V
Richard C
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#7
I agree with joe & RC; you should never need to sand new plaster, it’s not intended for sanding. A decent plaster job should not be over polished & you should only see the odd trowel mark if any; I’ll give you a couple on a really bad day!
If your looking to take care of minor blemishes, mist coat as RC says; ordinary (own brand will do) white matt emulsion, thinned 25-30%, 2-3 coats in quick succession, leave overnight, then fill sand & re-prime any blemishes, dry again & then your finish coats.
Overdo the sanding & it will destroy the grain leaving it looking like a suede coat brushed the wrong way & need many more coats to cover & whatever you do, don’t use an electric orbital sander.
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Richard C said:
whatever you do, don’t use an electric orbital sander.
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Richard not all plasterers plaster to your standard.
There are times when I turn up on site and discover that the finish is not absolutely perfect. I am not going to insist that the client spend more money on replastering the room again.
I decorate in the real world, I am part of a chain, often commissioned after the builder or plasterer. I have no control over the people higher up the chain.
In the real world people like Akshay have to deal with imperfections- telling them that imperfections should not exist really isn’t going to help anybody.
I don’t imagine that he wants to sand the ceiling just because there is nothing worthwhile watching on tv.
If there are high spots then they need to be sanded. it beggars belief that you think that hand sanding will give a better finish than a quality sander, attached to a dust extractor with the appropriate abrasives.
joe-90
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#9
Richard’s the daddy. If you have to sand – then you shouldn’t be paying the plasterer. That’s how we live in the real world. We don’t pay for bad work.
Richard C
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#10
Oh dear we don’t seem to be getting on too well do we . Why single me out! While you’re here, why not have a go at RC & joe ; I was merely echoing & expanding on their comments; but I am known to waffle on a bit you obviously took exception to my comment on the orbital sander bit!
opps said:
Richard not all plasterers plaster to your standard.
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So what standard is that then? There is cowboy standard (very common) & BS standard; but if you can’t meet that, you can’t call yourself a plasterer, it’s not exactly perfection either!
opps said:
There are times when I turn up on site and discover that the finish is not absolutely perfect. I am not going to insist that the client spend more money on replastering the room again.
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Nor would I; needs must & you have to make the best of it but it doesn’t mean you have to condone or preach it!
opps said:
I decorate in the real world, I am part of a chain, often commissioned after the builder or plasterer. I have no control over the people higher up the chain.
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I appreciate it depends where in the “chain” you fit &, once again, needs must. I’ve always positioned myself at or near the top end of the “food chain” rather than near the bottom. Your personal standards & expectations really can make a big difference to your achievements; you can control it, you just have to learn how!
opps said:
In the real world people like Akshay have to deal with imperfections- telling them that imperfections should not exist really isn’t going to help anybody.
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The “real world” jibe is total boll oc ks, the OP could be a merchant bwanker looking to amuse himself at the weekend for all we know. As far as I can establish from the OP’s post, he is not part of a building contractor chain or been commissioned after a cowboy builder or plasterer, he’s merely looking for good advice for his project.
opps said:
I don’t imagine that he wants to sand the ceiling just because there is nothing worthwhile watching on tv.
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Neither would I; pointless jibe; your point is?
opps said:
If there are high spots then they need to be sanded. it beggars belief that you think that hand sanding will give a better finish than a quality sander, attached to a dust extractor with the appropriate abrasives.
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I didn’t (& still haven’t) looked at the links you posted but if you use an orbital sander on plaster it will totally fcuff it. If you think that’s OK, fine! Keep that sander & roller going
Richard C
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#11
joe-90 said:
Richard’s the daddy.
If you have to sand – then you shouldn’t be paying the plasterer. That’s how we live in the real world. We don’t pay for bad work.
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I smell smoke again joe should I go & have another look It is my “real world” & I can’t imagine for one minute it not yours!
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#12
Richard
You strike me a being pretty intelligent yet I cannot understand why you are surprised/take offence when you criticise me and I retort.
The right sander set up will always outperform a hand sander and will have the added advantage of leaving the local atmosphere dust free.
I regularly sand plaster with no adverse effects- other than clogging the bags in the dust extractor.
Richard C
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#13
opps said:
I cannot understand why you are surprised/take offence when you criticise me and I retort.
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How is advising the OP not to use an orbital sander on new plaster a criticism of you
opps said:
The right sander set up will always outperform a hand sander and will have the added advantage of leaving the local atmosphere dust free.
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In some instances I would agree but not for finishing plaster or wood or paint of any sort; hand sand is more time consuming but I would chose it every time, using a linear action, not orbital.
opps said:
I regularly sand plaster with no adverse effects- other than clogging the bags in the dust extractor.
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Well, as I said before, we obviously work in a different market & to totally different standards, at least as far as plastering is concerned. If youve got to sand plaster skim before you paint it then whoever did it is a total joke, should be told so & chucked off site; believe me I’ve done it more than once.
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#14
It really must be a long time since you used an electric sander, either that or you have never used a quality sander such as one of the festool sanders.
The right set up will leave you with a flatter finish than you could achieve by hand and in a fraction of the time. Not only will the finish be better but you wont need to wear a mask.
Additionally the size of the pad enables you to remove highspots much more accurately than you could do with a 4″ sanding block.
Don’t take my word for it- find a local Festool supplier- it used to be a requirement that resellers had workshops where you could try the tools.
Off hand, one trade that works to high finishes is the automotive trade- they have been using DA sanders with extraction for years.
Incidentally I do have a linear electric sander but I seldom use it. I only use it for handrails etc and it has user defined bases so the risk of losing the profile/shape is mitigated.
ajrobb
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#15
I’ve seen them dot’n’dab plasterboard on 60MM, maybe they were sanding tape and fill.
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Mechanized Wall Plaster in Blagoveshchensk
What is mechanized plaster
Mechanized plastering is a fast and accurate wall finishing process.
This option is much better than a similar application of plaster material with your own hands. It’s lovely
mechanization option for those situations when you need to complete the task quickly and as accurately as possible.
At the moment, it is machine plaster walls and semi-dry floor screed that stand out and are used for large
areas. It is simply impossible to process warehouses, shopping centers or an entire apartment building with your hands.
Machine plaster is called preparation for the fine finishing of the room, in the future it will be possible to paint,
glue wallpaper or use any other materials, depending on personal preferences about the interior.
Mechanical plaster
Machine plaster
Turnkey mechanized plastering
Machine plaster walls
Mechanized ceiling plaster
Machine plaster for a private house
Technology
Mechanized wall plastering is carried out using a special apparatus. The machine is a unit with a capacity
under the material, as well as with a hose from which the mixture is supplied under a certain pressure. The work is carried out step by step:
Preparatory work
First of all, it is important to obtain a plaster mortar of the desired consistency and density. For this it should
read the instructions for the plaster and dilute the dry mix with water directly in the bunker. Be sure to mix the resulting composition well.
Application
After mixing, the solution is applied under pressure. Evenly it is fed through the hose. The employee is only
exactly sequentially carry out the apparatus and the walls will be neatly processed.
Leveling
Further, after the completion of the automated stage, all irregularities are neutralized with a spatula along the beacons.
Grouting and cleaning
Allow to dry completely, time may vary depending on materials used. When plastering
the layer is dry, beacons are removed and the entire surface is rubbed. The client area is being cleaned.
Handover
As a result, the walls are perfectly smooth and even, ready for any further processing.
Mechanized plaster price per m2 is slightly higher than similar work by hand. This is due to a host of benefits.
1
Working speed on request
In this way, even a large area is covered with a screed very quickly. Modern construction is largely
automated. The service of mechanized wall plastering price per m2 is carried out in a matter of hours.
2
Smooth coat
With the manual method, shortcomings can often occur. In particular, this is a change in the thickness of the material layer. Eye gauge
in any case, it can fail, even if a real professional works. Regarding the automated process,
everything is as accurate as possible.
3
The perfect surface, ready for any finish
Even if the walls are planned to be tiled later on or painted with bright paint, under which everything is visible in detail
disadvantages, mechanized plastering is relevant.
4
Walls can be processed inside and outside
Different plaster materials can be used, the approach to work is also somewhat different.
5
High quality
Treated walls and partitions keep their perfect appearance for many years. These surfaces are different.
strength, they are resistant to mechanical stress, as well as to humidity, winds and other natural tests.
6
Optimum solution
Due to the many advantages, this type of wall treatment is now most often chosen.
It remains only to enjoy the finished result, which will suit the most fastidious tenant
apartments in Blagoveshchensk or a country cottage.
Equipment and tools
Machine applied plaster is an automated process. There are several devices that can be used
for this task. There are pneumatic superchargers, augers, Knauf PFT and PFT Ritmo stations. In order for the plaster mix
supplied evenly used air pressure. For this, a simple compressor of 2-3 atmospheres is enough. Better
do not play with power, it is believed that these indicators are the golden mean. There are also units and devices,
which are focused on mechanical pressure and with its help the mixture is supplied.
From a small machine, inside which there is a mechanical or pneumatic mechanism, a hose must extend,
it is through it that the solution will be supplied in the future. Be sure to pay attention to the detail that everything is accurate
is regulated and under pressure the mixture is supplied in the same rhythm, under this condition the material was laid perfectly evenly on the walls.
Since beacons help to control in detail the evenness of the application of the material.
Advantages and disadvantages
Recently, turnkey machine plastering of walls and ceilings has become very popular. In all
construction companies must use special equipment. This has a lot of advantages, below we will consider them in more detail.
1
Speed
For many objects it is very important to finish all plaster work as soon as possible. This property
allows you to quickly complete the facility and save on wages for employees, because they will be busy
less time. It is noted that this option is almost 7 times faster.
2
Cost
You can save on the price of the mixture, as well as on labor and delivery. Of course original machine plaster
the price per m2 will be higher due to the cost of the apparatus, but in the future this disadvantage will be quickly compensated. Finite
The price tag depends on many factors. The measurer will help you calculate the price during the site visit.
3
Easy to mix materials
Additives and various other additives can be added to the plaster. Mixes the composition of the machine in a special
tank, it does this quickly and easily, in predetermined proportions with fillers of fine and coarse fractions.
Sets up in seconds. Eliminates the possibility of uneven mixing.
4
Quality and guarantee
The plaster is applied evenly and the walls are perfectly smooth. They are prepared and suitable for any
further decorative finishes, such as Venetian plaster.
Call a measurer
A few words about the disadvantages
1
Use of electricity
Also a negative feature is the need to use electricity. If processing is carried out in places where
there are no utilities yet, you will have to use a generator.
2
Compliance with safety regulations
It is imperative that all safety regulations be observed in detail during plastering. Under pressure, the solution is produced and exits
at a fairly high rate in large numbers. Accidentally particles can fly into the eyes or hit the face, this is extremely
unpleasant and dangerous to health. Protective goggles for work can help in such a situation. Respiratory organs are protected
using a respirator, then the specialist can feel safe. In general, machine plastering is a safe process.
application of the mixture, it is simply better to prevent unpleasant accidents in advance and adhere to special measures.
3
Cost of equipment
Only the cost of equipment can be noted among the shortcomings. Of course, every construction company in Blagoveshchensk is obliged
purchase this technique and automate your plastering work, but private individuals may not be able to afford the machine. machine
cement plaster is used if it is planned to process the surfaces of walls and ceilings more than 1000 square meters, in this case
even the purchase of the unit is fully justified.
4
For professionals only
This work should only be ordered from professionals. A team of specialists is able to carry out everything as quickly as possible.
Beginners may not cope with the technique, despite the simple operation. In addition, the machine allows you to increase speed, improve
quality and evenness, but only with the professionalism of the worker.
Call a measurer
Types of work
Not only internal plastering is carried out with the help of automation, but also mechanized plastering
outer facade. This surface treatment protects the building and prepares the walls for further finishing.
and performs the function of insulation. It should be noted that special materials in the composition of the plaster mixture allow the coating
easily withstand temperature extremes, humidity and other tests. There are cement, polymer, cement-sand,
gypsum, cement-lime and lime-gypsum compositions. For example, high-quality solution Volma Gypsum Active,
gypsum mixture Prospectors, cement Knauf Unterputz and cement-lime MPA 35 Baumit. Selection of quality materials
guarantees good penetration and adhesion of the plaster to the wall after laying. Therefore, it is better to immediately buy good
materials. After carrying out these works, it will be possible to enjoy an ideal appearance for several decades.
Mechanical plastering is a modern approach to interior and exterior finishing. Sometimes plaster is used
and lime-gypsum compositions that make the walls perfectly white and maintain perfect geometry. The room will
ready for any finish, and sometimes used without applying additional materials, only with finishing plaster.
Automation makes it possible to quickly deal with this separate stage of repair work. It is used by builders for
processing areas of any size. This type of plaster is better and faster than hand-made by a person.
Feedback on the work
It was necessary to quickly make repairs in the apartment in Blagoveshchensk before the wife arrived from the maternity hospital. Ordered machine plaster
walls and ceiling, so as not to suffer and level it yourself. Everything about the electrics has already been done, including strobes.
I looked at the result and you know, I’m very pleased! We recently arrived in a new apartment, and the walls here are of a rough finish,
so there was no problem with applying gypsum plaster.
Bottom line: the workers quickly coped with the task and the perfectly even walls are drilled well, the wallpaper does not move away! Thank you, everything
top notch, just like I wanted!
For fifteen, maybe twenty years, the apartment has not even had cosmetic repairs. So now we decided to change everything
and completely “pat up” housing.
It got to the point that due to the heterogeneous layer, when the wallpaper was removed, pieces of plaster fell off and holes formed.
We decided to call a team of specialists to fix the problem! I found contacts on the official website, sent the form with
with your questions. A few minutes later I received a call back and a commercial offer.
We called the measurer by phone, called back immediately, answered all questions. Conducted free measurements, made an estimate
on the calculator and concluded a personal contract. Made an advance payment for materials. Plastered walls with modern materials
according to the new German technology of machine plastering. They did everything in detail: from unloading materials, priming (primer from
Knauf Mittelgrund) and the installation of beacons and before grouting every meter of the wall and adjoining the floor – the result is excellent!
All irregularities are smoothed out, there are no cracks, and the new tiling looks much better on a flat surface. We are with
My wife is very happy with the result. Recommended!
I am engaged in construction. I have been running my own business for ten years.
A high-rise building was recently rebuilt, and after the construction of the walls on most of the floors of the new building, the walls went in “waves”.
I had to do something, the first time! – signed a contract with an untested brigade!
Friends advised a quick machine plaster, they say, it will correct any unevenness. Indeed, several hours
work and the building can already be handed over to new settlers. I decided to order an improved plaster with reinforcement, since deviations
levels were significant. Plastered after installing reinforcing meshes with smoothing under puttying.
Thanks to the professional plasterers for the corrected work. Mechanized plastering in my case –
this is the optimal choice.
This is just a godsend! Discovered just a unique technology!
For a long time I tried to manually somehow align the aerated concrete wall and the ceiling in order to apply photo wallpaper, putty
or painting, but nothing happened: either waves, or incomprehensible lumps.
I contacted the masters of the company and on the same day I have the smoothest walls ready for further transformation! To be honest,
I am so happy!
It’s very good that the price of materials and work is favorable, savings in person, much cheaper than I thought! told
your friends – are interested!
Thank you very much to the masters of the company for high-quality and fast machine-type plastering!
Recently moved, bought a house and urgently needed repairs in it.
The team did 100%, there were no nuances in the work or calculation, everything was clear and competent from the very beginning. expected
prices are nowhere higher from the capital, but it turned out that it is very economical to properly prepare room walls. They also provided a discount
costs are minimal.
I will need to equip my mother-in-law’s dacha, of course, I will only contact you! Looking at the result, I can definitely say that I am satisfied with the work.
I expected a different final result from the contractor for such money in Blagoveshchensk, I thought the result would be average, but it turned out to be 5+.
It’s nice that there are the most responsible workers with experience who immediately do their work inexpensively and “in good faith”,
and do not deceive people with a “temporary result”. Conduct daily consultations.
Discovered machine-made gypsum plastering, although she knew that traditional plastering technologies had long reached a new level.
Here’s what else I liked: the work was done with the signing of the contract, the conditions are written and understandable, without pitfalls and hidden
complexities, everything is clean, without debris and spattered floor.
Thank you for your good customer service, reasonable prices for materials and excellent work. I will be glad to cooperate with the new
possibilities. I agree to fill out the order form for subsequent work.
Price list for work in Blagoveshchensk, Moscow region and regions
Service name | Prices RUB/m |
---|---|
Wall surface rough plaster (no gloss) | from 480 rubles per 1m2 (up to 20 mm) |
Plaster for puttying (with gloss 1 time) | from 500 rubles (up to 20 mm) 1m2 |
Plaster for wallpapering (2 times glossy) | from 520 rubles 1m2 |
Slope plaster | from 450 rubles 1mp |
Facade plastering | from 700 ₽ / m2 |
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Our mechanized plastering work
Steps for applying mechanized plaster
Machine plaster is a popular technology for leveling wall areas with a variety of mortars using
automatic technology. It is able to greatly facilitate and speed up the production of plaster mortar and carrying out various
finishing work.
Machine plastering of the wall plane makes it possible to save a lot of time and effort in order to get a perfect
flat surface. After such processing, the concrete walls are ready for the subsequent stages of finishing the room. Advantages of this technology
there is a mass. In addition, machine plaster price per m2 is available.
Thanks to the control unit, it is possible to monitor the performance of the plastering stations and offer the required data.
Some equipment has a remote control, which simplifies the use of equipment and you can work comfortably.
Mechanized surface plastering is a special technique to apply the mixture to any surface. They can
treat both wall and floor areas. Consider what constitutes mechanized wall plastering. This method
involves the mechanized application of the mixture under high pressure on the area.
Mechanical application of plaster includes:
Preparation of the room
Initially, we clean the surface of the walls for plastering from the remnants of the formed building debris, if
needs to be dismantled and cleaned up.
Next, the docking areas, metal protrusions are checked, and all unnecessary details are removed. Areas
removal of metal structures must be protected from possible corrosion.
Primer
Then we prepare the cleaned area with rollers. These works are carried out in order to ensure
the maximum possible adhesion of the walls with further applied layers.
The primer can be applied to various areas, eg monolithic or panel. Ground work also
allow you to save finishing materials. The use of a primer also makes it possible to increase the adhesive characteristics.
base, for this reason the supply of further layers can be much easier. Most often, an absorbent primer is performed
sponge roller vertically over the entire width. Sometimes the walls are primed 2 times.
Installation of beacons
It is also required to install beacons (gypsum or metal profiles) to level the plaster layer. Without beacons
it is very difficult, almost impossible, to achieve a perfectly even coating. Usually beacons are guides that set the top
layer boundary. During the installation of beacons vertically and horizontally, a non-contact laser level is necessarily used, so
required accuracy is achieved. You need to be careful when choosing metal beacons, as over time, the walls may appear
rust (even from galvanized).
Mortar Mixing
a homogeneous surface is obtained in a short period of time.
The receiving hopper together with the mixer carry out mixing work together with each other, the first one is filled with dry mix
and add the required volume of liquid, and then the components are mixed.
Applying plaster
In the mixer, the solution is thoroughly mixed and the result is a homogeneous mass. The supply system into which
mortar, a compressor and a gun for applying plaster are working. This element provides compressed air, thus solution
sprayed onto surfaces under high pressure.
Before applying the main layer, go through the joints and corners. The sequence of work consists of
successive application of any new layer with the application of the solution on the new half.
Leveling
After all layers have been applied, we start leveling with a special rule-rail, then the treated area
leave to harden. To obtain even walls, then we proceed to manual work with a large spatula. If a mixture remains, then it
redistributed to reduce the consumption of the solution.
After a certain time, begin to cut the surface with a trapezoidal cutter-rule. Irregularities and protrusions are cut off. Important
trim the mortar until it sets and dries completely.
Completion of work
Concluding stage: it is necessary to remove the beacons and putty the plastered area. Holes are closed
and recesses. To give the walls smoothness, grout corners and scratches from the rule with a mesh, as well as glossing after 1.5 hours
after all the work done. If it was not possible to grout before the layer dries, the walls are abundantly wetted.
Now is the time to pay attention to the details that have arisen during the work on bringing even surfaces or
after their completion. Thus, the plaster is applied mechanized.
Types of work
Mechanical plastering of the facade surface has a high productivity and is carried out in the shortest possible time,
and the price per m2 of mechanized wall plastering is available, is set after acceptance and does not exceed the market average. The bill is being prepared
and is formed individually in the order. To draw up an estimate, specialists contact the customer and go to the site. At
drawing up an invoice and an agreement, you must leave consent to the processing of personal data. By clicking on the submit application button
you agree to the company’s privacy policy. You can see a standard contract template on the website.
The company operates in Blagoveshchensk, Moscow region and other cities. Masters for free
they go to the object, give recommendations on the choice of material and make an estimate.
The cost of this type of work depends on the area in square meters, the height and distance of the object, the thickness of the layer, accessibility
connection of electricity 220 volts and selected materials. The price and quality win significantly compared to the manual method.
As you can see, machine application plaster is carried out quite quickly and in accordance with the requirements of modern standards.
Walls with adhesive tape – geometric wall painting
Painting walls with masking tape
06/30/2022
Using masking tape
The essence of the method is that a special masking tape is glued to the wall (just lines or combinations of them), then paint is applied, and when the tape is removed (without leaving marks on the wall), a geometric pattern is formed .
ATTENTION: When painting, it is important that the paint does not get under the tape. Here we will work with a roller, each time picking up paint, make sure that it is not too much
How everything is done
must be taken into account when working. First of all, it is necessary to properly prepare the plane on which to work. Preparation is simple: cleaning, if necessary – leveling and priming. If the wall is already painted, the primer can be discarded and immediately proceed to the next step.
Next, you need to decide what kind of drawings on the walls will be created using masking tape. You can draw a sketch and clearly follow the invented scheme, or you can come up with patterns directly during gluing. However, even if you are a born artist at heart, it is better to draw up at least an approximate gluing scheme in advance.
Next, the hardest part is carefully sticking all the paper strips onto the surface. Here you should show patience and attentiveness, since the final result depends on how careful you are. It is better to glue all the strips at once, without leaving any fragments for later. This moment is especially important if it is supposed to paint the entire wall in different colors.
Important: you need to glue the strips very carefully by smoothing the paper tape along its entire length and area.
In no case should the paint get under the stripes. Take only a small amount of ink onto the roller to prevent the paper from getting wet and getting ink underneath.
Then everything will be relatively easy. A little paint is collected on the roller and the sections of the wall separated from each other are painted over with the selected color. Do not rush and be careless. – it is better to spend a little more time, but do everything the way it should and avoid mistakes.
The final step is peeling off paper strips and cleaning. It is worth considering that you need to peel off strips of paper only when the paint is completely dry. It is impossible to name the specific drying time for sure – the instructions for your paint have exact data, which you should be guided by. At the same time, despite the fact that the surface is already completely dry, peeling must also be done carefully. After that, it remains only to remove the peeled off pieces of paper tapes and enjoy the result of your work.
Masking tape 25mm*30m
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Masking tape 48mm*35
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Masking tape 48mm*150m
208.85
–
+
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Masking tape 120mm*45m
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Master class: Stepped forms
Here we will create patterns on the walls – steps. To paste the adhesive tape evenly and evenly, use a cardboard stencil.
Tools:
- Scotch tape, thick cardboard (you can cut the box),
- paint, small roller.
Drawing technique:
- Cut out the stencil from cardboard and cover it with tape (so that the edges do not tear). For example, let the first step be 5 cm high, and the second and third steps 10 cm each, each step 10 cm wide.
- Make even, parallel lines with masking tape. Then apply the stencil, glue it with masking tape and repeat this action, shifting the stencil each time at the same distance. And so on, level after level.
The result should be as in the picture:
- Before you start color painting, it is better to apply white paint. This is necessary in order to be sure that the colored paint does not get under the adhesive tape and a neat pattern is formed.
- Now apply paint of different colors on each level with a roller.
- Carefully remove the adhesive tape and get a beautiful even pattern with clear lines, without mixing colors.
Tutorial: Triangles for Ombre Walls
Triangles that change color from the base to the top from pronounced to lighter shades will make the room elegant and modernist.
You will need the following materials:
- Ruler
- Utility knife
- Rollers and brushes
- Paint tray
- 4-5 shades of the same paint color (one can of each)
- 1 can of paint in contrasting color
- Masking tape
Instructions:
- Stick masking tape on the wall, forming triangles with it. Make sure all lines are straight.
- With a utility knife, carefully trim the corners of the triangles, in which the adhesive tape is superimposed on different sides and can protrude beyond the lines. It is very important not to damage the wall!
- With the lightest shade, start painting the top of the wall, continue until a quarter is covered.
Then take the paint a tone darker and paint from the place where you left off before. And so on to the darkest shade, that is, to the bottom of the wall.
- After the previous step, the wall doesn’t look very neat, the colors go too sharply, we need to smooth it out. With a dry brush, blend the lines where the different shades converge.
- Wait for the paint to dry (according to your specific paint instructions)
- Remove the masking tape, leaving only those parts of the triangles that you will paint over with a contrasting color. To do this, grab the corner of the triangle and pull towards you at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Apply contrast paint to the remaining glued triangles.
- Wait for the paint to dry and remove the masking tape as described above.
Master class: Optical patterns
This method of painting will require a little more calculations and preparatory steps than the previous ones. But the resulting drawing with a 3D effect is worth it.
You will need the following materials:
- Masking tape
- Paint in different colors (3-5 will be enough)
- Paint tray
- Roller
Steps to create a pattern:
- Draw on a leaf a rough sketch of the pattern that you will apply to the wall.
- Choose a base color (whose elements will appear most often) and paint the entire surface of the wall with it.
- Tape all surfaces that may be exposed to paint to protect them. For example, skirting boards, tiles.
- Based on the sketch, evenly apply marks with a pencil and a ruler, creating a pattern grid.
- Designate a color for each section, this will facilitate and speed up the work, eliminating confusion.
- Decide which paint you want to apply first and cover those areas with masking tape.
Apply paint and wait until it dries (about a day). Remove the tape by pulling it towards you at a 45 degree angle.
- Tape the areas for the second color and repeat from the previous step. The same goes for the rest of the flowers.
- Make sure there is no tape left anywhere and your pattern is complete.
In this way, you can paint both the entire wall and part of it, then there will be a 3D effect of the picture.
Master class: Geometric figures on the wall
Triangles, squares, circles and other geometric shapes scattered on the wall will create an original composition.
Materials:
- Masking tape
- Paint in two colors (for backgrounds and patterns, the first one needs more)
- Paint tray
- Roller
- Stencils for shapes with uneven lines (e.g. circles and ovals)
Workflow:
- Apply background paint.
If you want the pattern not to cover the entire wall, glue the part of it that you will not touch.
- Use painter’s tape to form outlines of geometric shapes.
- Paint the shapes with a different paint color.
- Let the paint dry for 24 hours.
- Remove the tape by pulling it towards you at a 45 degree angle.
Masking tape 48mm*50m
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Masking tape 19mm*35m
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Masking tape 38mm*20m
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Masking tape 75mm*25m
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Brick effect plaster with mortar and masking tape
One of the options for modern wall decoration is imitation brickwork, the popularity of which is due to its versatility, as it is suitable for almost any room: kitchen, living room, hallway and even bedroom.
There are various ways to make such an imitation: it is an artificial stone, wall panels from various materials, decorative, textured plasters, and so on. In this material, we will consider one of the cheapest ways to make decorative brickwork with your own hands – using adhesive tape:
- tools;
- sticking masking tape;
- 2 ways to apply mortar;
- remove the tape;
- final works.
The essence of the method is the use of ordinary gypsum plaster and packing tape. The result is impressive: the finish looks like real decorative brickwork.
This method is for you if :
- You want a realistic brick wall, with rough stone texture and chipped edges;
- Cement left, tile adhesive, gypsum mixture – these binders will definitely work. Conducted an experiment, used a composition of: cement, sand, chalk, tile adhesive, acrylic.
- No money to buy a mold, die or roller.
Time consumption for a wall of 11 sq.m: marking – 2 hours, gluing tape – 5 hours, putty – 3 hours. Total 10 hours, it takes about 1 hour per square meter.
Faster methods are described in article
Necessary tools and materials
a selection of methods for decorating a brick wall.
For work you will need:
- Dry gypsum plaster, any manufacturer will do.
- Solution container.
- Water, construction mixer.
- Regular packing tape.
- Bulgarian.
- Several brushes.
- Beacons 10 mm.
- Construction level, pencil or laser level for marking.
- Knife.
- Spatulas in various widths.
Please note ! The rough base is pre-leveled on the beacons with a cement composition. After the leveling layer has dried, the wall is treated with a deeply penetrating reinforcing primer in 2-3 passes. If the gypsum mixture is applied to smooth concrete (panel house), then such a surface is treated with a concrete-contact primer.
Economy version . Do not level the surface, but clean, prime. Practice has shown that such a finish also rests on weak plaster, which in some places bays. Be prepared, you will see that the walls will remain crooked, but it will become less noticeable.
Preparation, marking, gluing masking tape
Using a grinder with a disc on the tile, the adhesive tape is cut into “washers” about 10 mm wide. The edges of the adhesive tape should be uneven so that the masonry is more natural. The second way is to use emery, it turns out something like working on a lathe.
Then the wall surface is marked out, taking into account the size of the brick (25065 mm) and the joint thickness of 10 mm. This can be done with a tape measure, a building level and a pencil, but the process takes a lot of time. After marking along the lines, horizontal and vertical strips of centimeter masking tape are glued
To save time, you can do it easier, but a laser level is required:
- Dots are marked on the wall indicating vertical rows.
- Then a laser level is set in turn at these points and horizontal strips of adhesive tape are glued. At the same time, do not forget to leave long free ends so that the adhesive tape can then be peeled off the wall.
- Next, vertical strips of adhesive tape are glued with a distance of half the length of the brick. Then, with a knife, excess vertical pieces are cut out to form a brickwork.
Important! Vertical stripes must be glued on top of horizontal ones.
Preparing the mortar and applying the plaster
The next step is to prepare the mortar. To do this, a measured amount of clean water is poured into the container, which is indicated by the manufacturer. Then the dry mixture is poured into the water and the composition is thoroughly mixed with a mixer or a drill with a mixing nozzle. The finished plaster should have a sufficiently thick consistency and not completely fall off the spatula, but at the same time be very plastic.
Plaster method #1, which I used:
- With a wide spatula, apply the solution on the first 4 rows.
- Decorating the surface under a brick with a roller.
- Tape removal.
Advantages of the method : highly realistic brickwork is obtained. Bricks are obtained somewhere thinner, somewhere smaller, as with laying for jointing.
Method for precise application of mortar No. 2, found this on the Internet, someone is clearly overplaying with decor:
- Beacons are placed along the vertical level. The width between them – depending on the length of the rule with which the solution will be leveled. The lighthouses are fixed on a gypsum mixture, since they are then removed after plastering.
- The solution is thrown onto the base in a thick continuous layer and leveled by the rule along the beacons. Special evenness is not required, on the contrary, it is better if the surface is embossed.
- The beacons are then removed and the resulting grooves filled with mortar.
- Pay attention! All work must be done very quickly, since the viability of gypsum plaster is on average 40 minutes.
Advantages of the method: very smooth.
Disadvantages : the total time to complete the work is increased by a few more minutes per 1 sq.m.
Removing the adhesive tape (painting tape)
The most crucial moment is to give the plaster an imitation of brickwork. To do this, the strips of adhesive tape for the previously left free ends are carefully removed. This is done immediately after application, when the solution has set a little, but has not dried up: it is important not to miss the moment here.
Tip! If the area is very large, then applying plaster and giving it a decorative shape (pulling out strips of adhesive tape) is best divided into several stages, which should be carried out in one day.
Final step
Immediately after removing the tape, the resulting “bricks” are processed with a wet brush. Such processing allows you to smooth out sharp edges, remove crumbling mortar, and make the masonry more natural.
When the plaster is completely dry, it is recommended to prime it with a binder. After the primer has dried, the wall can be painted: for this, an ordinary water-based emulsion is suitable, into which, if desired, you can add any color to get a colored finish. You can use a brush or spray gun to apply the paint.
After the paint dries, a beautiful imitation of decorative masonry is obtained, in which all the bricks have a different texture.
Sources:
- https://kallibry.ru/uzory-i-risunki-na-stenax/
- https://wikipotolok.com/kak-s-pomoshhyu-skotcha-sdelat-risunki-na-stenah/
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