How to build a wall
Not too long ago, I finally decided it was time to build a dedicated shop. For the past six years, my converted two car garage was one big space that held my office, my music studio, our laundry and all of my shop stuff (tools, bench, lumber, etc.) I’ve always had to drag tools outside to use them, to avoid making a mess around my computer and instruments. I’d gotten used to it, and it wasn’t too bad until I got a bandsaw.
I was SO excited about using the bandsaw, but it was a huge issue to drag it outside and back in, and this process made me look at how much time I was spending in moving tools and materials outside, using them, cleaning up, moving them back in… I found that a single wood cut, which took about 30 seconds, took me 5-10 minutes and a lot more effort than it should. It was time to erect a wall, to split my office into dedicated spaces.
In my particular space, there was a header that ran right down the middle of the space and it was supported by two steel poles. This header was in a great position for the wall, so I just decided to use it and build a partially supporting wall underneath it. If you didn’t have this beam, you could do this exact same process but extend the wall height all of the way up to the ceiling.
Another option, that may be simpler if it works in your situation, is to frame the wall laying down on the floor, then raise it up in to place. But for the sake of education, let’s talk about the more difficult way to do it.
Here’s what you’ll need:
(These are affiliate links, using them for purchases helps me out!)
- Nail Drive Anchors
- Plumb bob
- Tape measure
- Pry bar
- 48-Inch Level
- lots of 2×4’s
Securing the top plate
Since I was building down from the existing header, the placement of my top plate was a no brainer. If you were just going to add a top plate to the ceiling of your room, you’ll need to find where you want it, and make sure that it’s square to the existing walls. This will take some time, lots of measuring, and probably snapping a chalk line on the ceiling to give you a solid line to build along.
Cut 2×4 to the correct length for your new wall. If it’s long, you may need multiple pieces, but try to minimize to total number of separate pieces in the top plate as much as possible. You’ll need to add a stud under each one of these joints, whether the stud spacing dictates it or not, as a precaution.
Once you’ve found your line where the wall should set, you’ll need to use a stud finder to locate the joists. (Depending on the direction of your wall, you maybe have already had to find these joists to set the placement of the top plate.) Make a mark on each joist next to, but not under, where the top plate will sit. These will guide you, once the plate is held in place, as to where you need to nail the top plate to the joists.
With some help, hold a 2×4 in place along your chalk line, and drive (or shoot) nails through the top plate into the joists.
Securing the base plate
Next, you’ll need to find exactly where to put your base plate, but it’s a little more involved that you might think. You have to make sure that it follows the exact same line as the top plate, so that they are parallel for the entire wall. This was one of the most tedious parts for me.
To do this, I used a plumb bob and hung it from both sides and both ends of the top plate. This showed me the four corners of where my base plate should be. As I was putting the base plate down, I constantly double checked that it was following the top plate, by rechecking with the plumb bob.
Go ahead and cut your base plate to length, just as you did the top plate, but if you’re add it to a concrete floor, you NEED TO USE PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER for it. Even inside, a concrete floor still transfers a certain amount of moisture and temperature difference that a wooden floor wouldn’t. Plus, if your room ever floods for some reason, you won’t have to worry about it rotting as easily.
Since my room is a converted garage, the floor is a concrete slab. Adding the baseplate to a wooden floor would be even easier, although this process isn’t very hard. Either way, you need to make sure that the baseplate is SECURELY fastened down. With concrete, you’ll most likely need to use some sort of concrete anchor. I decided to use a “nail drive anchor” which is a little simpler than some other options.
The anchor is a shaft, with a nail already set inside it (but not pushed down).
Before you start drilling holes and adding anchors, you need to measure out where the studs will sit on the base plate. This is to avoid putting an anchor down where a stud needs to go. The anchors that I used have a rounded head which would get in the way of the stud. Studs are traditionally place every 16″ on center (meaning that the middle of the stud is 16″ from the middle of the previous stud. To simplify the marking and nailing of my studs, I cut a piece of 2×4 to 14.5″ to act as a spacer
A 2×4 is actually 1. 5″ thick. So, from the center of a stud it would be .75 “(outside half of that stud) + 14.5″ (spacer) + .75″ (outside half of next stud) = 16” on center.
Using the spacer and some short scraps of 2×4 as mock studs, mark the placement of all studs on the base plate.
Once that’s done, pre drill the holes in the base plate, set the base plate in place and transfer those marks to the concrete below (or drill them both at the same time). The anchors should be tight enough that they’ll need to be knocked down into the holes, but you can’t just hammer them from the top (the nail should be protruding still). I found the I could sit my small pry bar on the side/top of the anchor and gently hammer on the pry bar. This was enough force to knock the anchor down into place. Once the head of the anchor meets the base plate, just drive in the nail.
I would suggest rechecking the square (relative to the top plate) before and after each anchor is added, just in case you need to make adjustments along the way. Just note that the more anchors are in place (you don’t need many), the harder it will be to adjust/redo.
Adding the studs
The hard part is finished!! Cut your studs to length, making sure that they fit very snuggly between the top and base plates when they’re perfectly upright. If the stud needs a little knocking in place with a hammer, that’s perfect. This is important in case there is any load that the wall needs to carry, it will be transferred evenly to all of the studs, and not to just certain ones.
Add the first stud, at the end of the wall first. In my case, this was up against an existing wall, so I was able to set the stud in place easily. With the first stud set in place, toe nail the stud at the bottom, maybe sure it’s perfectly vertical using a level, then toe nail the top. Toe nailing, is nailing from the side, at an angle. The nail goes through the stud and ends in the plate. Use your level again, make it plumb, then toe nail the bottom of the stud.
Once the first stud is up, set the 14.5″ spacer in place, and you’re ready to add the next stud. Be sure to use the level on EVERY stud to make sure it’s perfectly upright.
Now do this over and over until you’ve finished the wall!!
Most likely, the final gap when placing the last stud won’t be 16″. This is just fine, 16″ is a maximum gap, anything under that is fine, just not required.
In some walls, you may have seen staggered horizontal pieces of 2×4 connecting the studs. These braces are generally only needed in shear walls to provide lateral support. If you’d building an interior wall, there’s little to no chance that you’ll need to put these in place.
Covering the wall
Once your framing is all complete, you’re ready to run electrical wiring through the studs, if you have any to run. I didn’t add any electrical, which helped be avoid having to get a permit, framing inspection, electrical inspection, etc.
When you’re ready to cover the wall, you have several options, but the most common is to use drywall. I won’t go over the process of hanging and mudding drywall here (because frankly, I hate it, and it makes me angry just thinking about it) but I will give one very helpful piece of advice. In between coats of drywall mud, one would typically sand down the rough sections. Sanding drywall mud is insanely messy and frustrating, but I found that you can get 90% of the EFFECT of sanding (and %5 of the mess) by using a wet grout sponge instead.
The water on the sponge softens the mud enough for it to fill gaps and be easy for the sponge to knock down the high points. I’ve used this process in two rooms now, and it’s a HUGE time and mess saver. When doing this, you only have to run over everything with sandpaper in the very last stage.
Anyway, in my situation, I put up drywall on the office side of my wall, but in the shop, I wanted something more useful. I added pegboard to the top 4′ of the wall. I added cut down sheets of OSB plywood to the bottom of the wall. This is really cheap material, and might not be the look you want to go for, but in a shop, it works pretty well (and you can always paint it).
This is definitely not an exhaustive explanation, and you’ll ALWAYS want to verify your plans with the local code, get the proper permits, etc. Hopefully this will help you make plans and get started as you build you wall!
How To Build A Wall
When you are renovating your home and changing any configuration, at some point you may need to build a new interior wall. The construction of building a wall is fairly simple. In this post, we’re going to break it down with the basics and show you how to build a wall with 2×4 studs.
Since the first time we walked through our fixer upper, we knew we were going to need to build a new interior wall or two. You may want to do this project yourself. In that case, you will need to learn how to build a wall! One of the main things we needed to fix on this home was the general configuration because it is just weird. And weird doesn’t sell. Luckily for the sellers, Logan and I can look past weird. In fact, we love fixing weird homes! But the truth is that most prospective buyers looked at this house and just couldn’t get past the awkward layout with 2 living rooms, a bedroom in the middle of the home with no windows, lack of en suite bathroom in the master and absolutely no open concept! (…these are all things we’re fixing as part of our renovation plans, which you can read more about here).
A big part of our renovation plan was converting one of the living rooms into a bedroom (our little one’s nursery to be exact), walk in master closet and bathroom. The area is shown above. Whew, I’m exhausted just talking about it! This phase of the renovation, of course, starts with building an interior wall for those new rooms. So grab those 2×4 studs and let’s chat about how to build a wall!
UPDATE: You definitely want to read this post on framing a door in your wall if you have a door you need to add!
This how to build a wall tutorial post contains affiliate links, but nothing that I wouldn’t wholeheartedly recommend anyway! Read my full disclosure here.
General makeup of interior wall framing
Before we just right in, let’s go back to the basics here and talk about the general makeup of the interior wall framing. A standard interior wall with no doors and no other walls attaching to it is pretty simple. Vertical studs need to be spaced 16″ apart on center (Don’t worry: we’ll talk about what on center means in a minute). The vertical studs attach to a 2×4 stud on the top (called the top plate) and on bottom (yep, you guessed it…it’s called a base plate).
What does on center mean?
16 inches on center means the center of your vertical studs are spaced out by 16 inches. If you take out your tape measure, you’ll notice that every 16″ is highlighted with either red or some other way depending on your brand. This is to make it easy to measure your studs.
Here’s a picture labeling the interior wall lingo.
Let’s jump right in and learn how to build a wall!!
Planning your interior wall
The first thing you’ll need to do when you are building an interior wall is:
- figure out where the wall is going,
- what it will attach to,
- what is going in or on the wall.
Where the wall will be located sounds simple enough, but in reality, it can get pretty complicated. Logan and I spent a few hours discussing exactly where the interior walls would go to how best meet our space requirements for the new rooms. Your home will also have its own ideas. We ending up having to move a couple light switches and an outlet to make room for the new walls, yikes!
If you are framing two interior walls that will attach, then you’ll need to frame a “U” channel with three 2×4 studs to connect the two walls. To make the “U”, lay one 2×4 flat on its 3.5″ face. Next lay the other two 2×4 studs on either side on their 1.5″ face. This will allow you to attach to the 2nd wall you’re building and provide a space to attach drywall on any inside corners. See photo below for an example of a channel.
Photo Source – Library Builder
You will apply this same technique when attaching your wall to existing walls. Unless you are lucky and your wall lines up with another stud where they connect.
If you need to frame something into the wall (like a door), there is some additional planning that needs to happen. Don’t worry, we’ve got a whole ‘nother post about how to frame a door and how to install a prehung door!
Drawing your interior wall plan
Now that we’ve covered some of the basics you are finally ready to tackle on getting that interior wall planned out on paper. First thing to do is grab a tape measure, pencil, ruler, graph paper, a 4 foot level, a chalk reel, and a friend.
Start by measuring if your room is square where you are adding the wall. Click here to read about how to figure out if a room is square or not. If your room isn’t square, you’ll need to account for that in your design.
Next measure your room and draw it out onto graph paper. We recommend a scale where each square on the graph paper is equal to 6″. Keep in mind that your finished wall will be 4.5″ wide (3.5″ of studs and two sheets of .5″ drywall on either side). Take the time to look at the new room you are creating and make sure the space is going to work for you. Adjustments are a lot easier to make on paper rather than a framed in wall.
Marking for your interior wall
Now it’s time to remove any necessary flooring to get down to the subfloor. If you are keeping your current flooring, then just take out the 4.5″ inches of flooring necessary for the wall to sit in. You’ll notice in our photos that we actually didn’t remove our oak flooring because it was very solid and nailed every 3 inches. Removing this flooring wasn’t necessary for us, but in MOST cases you will want to remove the flooring before installing your new interior wall.
Once the subfloor is exposed, you can put down chalk lines for your base plate. Get your tape measure and make a mark at one end where the wall will go (measuring from the wall opposite). Then make a second mark on the floor adding a 1/2 inch to account for drywall. Now also do this for the other end of the wall you are putting up.
Take your chalk reel and snap a chalk line spanning to each mark. Repeat this process on the ceiling.
Cutting top and base plates
Now that you’ve got your plan on paper and your chalk lines marked, it is time to set it in motion and get to actually building that wall! The first pieces of 2x4s you will cut for your interior wall are the top and base plate.
Marking your top and base plates for vertical studs
Lay your top and base plates flat on the floor and line them up side by side perfectly. Make a mark every 16″. These marks represent the center of your vertical studs.
You’ll notice in the photo above that Logan created boxes that have an “X” where the studs will be attached to the top and base plates. Go back to your top and base plates and make a mark 3/4″ on either side of each 16″ mark. Now you’ll take a square, like the one we use here, place it on the plates at a right angle, and draw lines on those 3/4″ marks you made (not the 16″ marks). This step makes boxes that are 1.5″ wide and the vertical studs will fit perfect inside them. Mark with an “X” so you know that is exactly where the stud is supposed to go.
Repeat these steps to make boxes on the 3.5″ side of your top and base plates. You want your marks to be seen on the top and side of the plates so you can easily see them when you put in your 2×4 studs.
Building your interior wall frame
Now you are ready to start framing the wall! Start by putting your base and top plates together on the ground on their 1. 5” faces. Now count how many X’s you have on one of the plates and start cutting the 2×4 studs to length for every X you have. The length of the vertical studs you’re cutting will depend on the height from your ceiling to subfloor. Whatever that measurement is be sure to take out 3″ total to account for the top plate and base plate otherwise your studs will be too long.
Next it’s time to put the wall together. Start by separating the top plate and base plate on the ground so you can fit the studs in between them. Line up each stud with their corresponding X and start putting the wall together by nailing the the vertical studs into the base plate first. After the base plate is attached to the vertical studs, you can move to the top plate.
Apparently toddlers work out as great 16″ inch spacers between studs 🙂
Be sure that you are keeping things level and square as you build. Keep the studs flush with the plates when you are nailing them. You don’t want your studs hanging off either plate when you stand your wall up.
Attaching your interior wall
Once your wall is put together, you can put it into place. Line up the base plate with the chalk line you made earlier and lift the wall frame upright.
Most likely your top plate is going to be attached to joists or rafters depending on which floor the wall is going on. However, if your new wall is going to be parallel to your joists/rafters then you have some extra work on your hands. You will need to frame in new 2×4’s to span the gap between the joists/rafters so you can attach your wall to them. You simply cut down 2×4 studs to fit between your joists/rafters and nail them in your basement/crawlspace and above your ceiling. When adding these supports try to have them spaced out so they line up with the vertical studs in your new wall.
Once your wall frame is upright and the base plate is lined up perfectly on that chalk line, you can begin to nail it in. The base plate will either be going into concrete, subfloor, or both. This really depends on your home’s foundation and what type of floor you’re building the interior wall upon.
- If you’re going into subfloor then just use the framing nails that you’re putting the wall together with.
- If you have to go into concrete then you will need to use a .22 caliber powder actuated tool, and you will load .22 powder shot, a 3 inch nail, and literally fire a nail by pulling a trigger. This will secure your stud into the concrete. As always, be sure you’ve got your ear protection and safety glasses if you need to do this.
Once your base plate is secured, use a level and a hammer to move the top plate into level position. Start from one side of the new wall you built nailing and leveling as you go to the other side. Secure each side of your wall to the existing walls.
The last steps after you get the framing up is to hang the drywall sheets, mud and tape the joints and texture walls.
Viola! You just put up a wall.
When you are renovating your home and changing any configuration, at some point you may need to learn how to build a wall. The construction of building a wall is fairly simple, right?! Hopefully you learned a lot as we showed you how to build a wall with 2×4 studs.
Next up if you learning how to build a wall, you need to know how to frame a door. Check out our tutorial for framing a door next!
Did you learn a lot from this how to build a wall tutorial? Where are you going to build a wall in your home?
Let me know in the comments below!!
Want to see more of our modern farmhouse nursery??
- Modern Farmhouse Baby Nursery Inspiration
- 10 White Modern Farmhouse Crib Ideas
- Setting Up A Nursery? Here’s What You Really Need (+ Baby Checklist Printable)
- Modern Farmhouse Rugs & Rug Buying Tips
- How To Build A Wall – you are here!
- How To Frame A Door In Interior Wall
- How To Install A Board and Batten Wall
- How To Plan Your Gallery Wall Layout (and Nursery Wall Art Reveal)
- Hardwood Floor Refinishing
- Interior Painting Tips & Tricks
- How To Install A Prehung Door
- DIY Yarn Wall Hanging
- Changing Table Organization
- Modern Farmhouse Floor Lamp Ideas Under $100
- Hanging Flower Box
- Room Reveal
Chelsea @ Making Manzanita
Chelsea is the founder of Making Manzanita – a DIY and renovation blog – where it’s all about making your house a home you love one DIY at a time. Chelsea and her husband, Logan, have been renovating homes since 2015 and have seen the sweat equity pay off. They enjoy teaching readers how to renovate with confidence. As an influencer, Chelsea has collaborated with brands like The Home Depot, Etsy, Behr Paint, DAP Products, Walmart, Frog-Tape, and Kreg Tools. Making Manzanita has participated in One Room Challenge and was a finalist in the Fall 2019 Jeffrey Court Renovation Challenge.
Materials for the construction of walls and partitions
Materials for the installation of external walls
The base of the facade system is the outer surface of the external walls, existing or newly erected buildings and structures, on which the SFTK is installed.
The following can serve as a bearing base for the installation of “wet” type facade systems:monolithic reinforced concrete walls and panels
prefabricated reinforced concrete wall structures, as well as wooden frames.
Brick and block masonry walls
A wall is the enclosing structure of a building. Walls can be load-bearing (perceiving additional loads), self-supporting (perceiving only their own weight) and non-bearing. As a rule, load-bearing walls are used for facade systems.
Walls can be made of:
- ceramic bricks (solid and hollow)
- light concrete and foam blocks
- natural stones
polymer solution. Also, with a small wall height, it is possible to connect light blocks using a special adhesive foam.
The thickness of external bearing walls is usually 380 (1.5 bricks) and 510 mm (2 bricks). Self-supporting walls have a thickness of 250 mm (in 1 brick).
In addition to bricks, also solid cellular concrete stones or hollow lightweight concrete blocks. Such blocks are larger and lighter than brick ones, which increases the speed of installation. Also, such a material transmits heat less, respectively, the thickness of the wall in this case will be less (200-400 mm).
Such blocks in relation to bricks have a number of disadvantages:
- lower strength
- low resistance to moisture and temperature changes
- impossibility of storage in damp rooms
Natural stone is used as a masonry material only in places where the material is affordable. Due to its high thermal conductivity, this material is rarely used in northern construction areas.
Reinforced concrete panels
Reinforced concrete panels are manufactured in the factory. They can be one, two or three layers. At the same time, there is already a heater inside the three-layer panel.
These panels are made from heavy concrete class not lower than B15 and reinforced with steel reinforcement and reinforcing mesh.
At the construction site, such panels are joined together by welding, and the seams between the panels are sealed with a special sealant.
Such constructions are typical for low-price mass buildings.
Over time, it becomes necessary to additionally insulate the structure, because heat losses through the seams of structures increase. As a rule, plaster systems of facades are used for this.
This type of load-bearing enclosing structure is most popular in cottage and low-rise construction because of its environmental friendliness and installation speed.
The wooden frame is mounted from dry lumber – edged or planed boards and timber of various sections.
Particular attention is paid to the moisture content of the material. Lumber of natural moisture content – 40% and above – is not suitable for assembling the frame, since subsequently, during natural drying, their dimensions change unevenly and they can be severely deformed. Because of this, the geometry of walls and ceilings changes, the bearing capacity of prefabricated elements is violated, and the house may become unsuitable for permanent residence.
Partition wall materials
The following materials are most commonly used for the construction of the structure:
Other materials may also be used.
- Light weight
- Environmental friendly
- No wet work during installation
- Ease of laying communications
- No further plastering required
- Humidity limit
- Load limit
- Easy installation
- No further plastering required
- Environmentally friendly
- Moisture limit
- Low price
- Easy installation
- Easy to saw
- Increased water absorption
- Requires further plastering
- Water and vapor permeability
- Easy installation
- Requires further plastering
- Moisture resistance
- Environmental friendliness
- Labour-intensive installation
- Requires further plastering
- Basic materials for building a house
- Ceramic brick
- Sand-lime brick
- Cellular foam concrete and aerated concrete blocks
- Foam concrete
- Aerated concrete
- Expanded clay concrete
- Construction of walls with wooden materials
- Handmade log house
- Timber house
Tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
Expanded clay concrete
- 90 009 Durability
Modern materials for house walls
Own house is what each of us would like. In order to have our own home, we are ready to save money for many years, keep savings in the bank and work hard. A home is not only a place where we will live for a while, but also something that we will leave to our generation. After all, we do not build such a structure with the calculation of temporary residence, because we hope that the house will be built with high quality, and several of our generations, children or even grandchildren will live in it. What memory of ourselves we leave depends only on us.
Many factors affect the construction of a house, such as: the amount of funds for construction, the location of the house, the climatic conditions of the region and much more. And when choosing a building material, your head is spinning, because more and more new materials appear on the market, those that are more expensive and those that are cheaper, those that we know something about, and those that we can see for the first time. However, you must agree that when choosing a building material, you need to take into account not only its advantages, but also all its inherent disadvantages. Let’s look at modern building materials for the walls of the house.
Basic materials for building a house
Although no houses are exactly the same, however, almost all of them are built from the same materials, such as stone or wood. However, all these materials are pre-treated, which gives them the necessary properties.
Let’s take, for example, a tree: glued or plain beam, log, carriage. At first glance, everything seems simple. However, it should be noted that such materials have very different characteristics. For example, a rounded log and a beam are two completely different materials in terms of their characteristics. But this is not even all wooden materials.
When it comes to stone, it is not a wild stone, but an artificial one. Such a stone was created with all the necessary properties that are needed when building a house. Although there are really a lot of varieties of such a stone, they can still be classified into three types:
- Blocks where cement acts as a binding component.
- Blocks based on clay or lime.
The largest variety of materials exists in the group of building blocks, the binding component of which is cement. Often, lightweight concrete is used in construction, the difference of which is the brand of cement, heat-insulating components and the composition of the filler.
Brick is one of the most widely used materials in residential construction. With this material, you can build not only a house from scratch, but also complete additional structures. Why is brick so popular? Because such material is strong enough, not afraid of fungus, frost-resistant. Compared to wood building materials, brick does not rot. Also, it is not afraid of fire, ultraviolet rays and does not give a strong precipitation. Brick is a durable material that meets all environmental standards. The strength of a house built of bricks is explained not only by the quality of the material, but also by the method of laying, since the upper row is knitted onto the lower row of bricks. Thus, you will not see any continuous vertical seams on the wall.
Of course, learning how to make masonry with your own hands is not difficult at all. This is possible even for those who do not have much experience in construction work. However, such work will be easier to perform for a qualified specialist, since he knows many of the subtleties in performing such work. Another disadvantage in building a brick house is that the brick has a high heat dissipation, which leads to a rapid cooling of the room, and it will take several days to warm up the house. In addition, you won’t be able to finish all the construction work fast enough, because brick is a heavy material, because of which you will have to wait for the house to completely shrink, that is, several months (although wood shrinks for about a year). Well, perhaps one of the main drawbacks is that the price of a brick is quite high.
I would also like to talk about silicate and ceramic bricks. It is these two types of bricks that are often used in construction work. Therefore, this information will be useful to you.
Has a red tint. It is made from fired clay, which makes the material quite durable. Since clay is a natural material, the brick does not have harmful toxic substances. It can be hollow and full-bodied, it all depends on the percentage of emptiness inside the material. Such a brick has good thermal insulation properties.
White. It consists of sand, lime and a small part of the necessary additives. Like the previous version, this brick is also made both solid and with holes inside. The advantage of solid silicate brick is the variety of colors. A brick with cavities inside has better thermal insulation properties. Both options are quite durable.
Cellular foam concrete and aerated concrete blocks
What makes these two materials different? Inside the foam concrete there are cells with air, and inside the aerated concrete there are cells with hydrogen. Both the first and second types of materials have their pros and cons. Let’s consider each of them separately.
Masonry with this material is not too laborious, since the blocks are quite light and slightly larger than bricks. The foam block has good heat-insulating properties. An important advantage of the foam block is that it will not be difficult to give it the necessary shape and size. The thing is that it can be cut with a simple hacksaw or chopped off with an ax. Thanks to this, you can give the block different shapes, make it oval, create bay windows, etc. In addition, the foam block does not burn, and it is quite convenient to transport it.
Among the shortcomings, it can be distinguished that the foam block is a material that has moisture-absorbing properties. Full shrinkage of the walls will be completed in about a year. Only after complete shrinkage, you will be able to proceed with the facade and interior work of your home. As for the foundation, it must be made of stable foundation slabs or monolithic concrete, thanks to which the walls will not crack.
Cheap enough material for building a house, which is why it is very popular in the construction industry. The gas block has a small weight, it is even lighter than the foam block, which reduces your labor costs. You can give the material the required size and shape using the same hacksaw. Such material boasts high-quality thermal protection and high strength. According to some experts, aerated concrete combines the strength of stone and the lightness of wood.
A big disadvantage of aerated concrete is that the wall will constantly accumulate moisture. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the surface of the wall must be sealed with a high-quality waterproofing finish. The second disadvantage is that the material is quite brittle, so when the wall is displaced, large cracks can form. To avoid this, you need to build a high-quality strip foundation.
Expanded clay concrete
This material contains rather light components, such as foamed and degreased clay. Although the material is lightweight, it is used both for creating partitions and for load-bearing walls. It has the following features:
- more moisture resistant than concrete;
- resistant to aggressive environments;
- has excellent sound deadening properties.
The downside of expanded clay concrete is that when moisture enters the pores, it reduces its frost-resistant properties. The porosity of the material also affects its strength, since you have to constantly calculate whether the lower blocks can withstand the weight of the next row.
Construction of walls with wooden materials
Handmade log house
This method of building walls in the house was used by our grandfathers. How did everything happen? First, the size of the tree trunk was determined, after which grooves and locks were cut out on the tree. After that, the logs were connected, while laying out the outlines of the house. Further, it was necessary to wait for the complete shrinkage of the house, which would occur during the year. Only after that they began to seal the cracks and trim the doors and windows. However, this method is no longer used, since it is a rather complicated and time-consuming work. A new method has come to replace it, we will talk about it further.
Building a log house is a fairly simple and quick process. In order for the logs to be smooth and neat, they are processed in production. During the construction of the walls, you will use ready-made parts, assembling the house as a constructor.
Such bars can be of different sizes and sections. For example, if the beam is oblique, then this is done so that excess water can drain from it and not stagnate on the surface. You can build such a house with your own hands.
These were the main modern materials for the walls of the house.