How to wall tile bathroom: Porcelain Wall Tile for Bathrooms & Showers

How Much of Your Bathroom Should You Tile?

Where should you put the tiles in your bathroom? All over? Just around the shower? On a sloping ceiling? Amid the array of choices to be made when renovating a bathroom, this is one of those that could really affect the cost of your project, since tiling is a highly skilled job. Equally, it can make or break the look of your finished room.

It pays to be working with an interior designer or architect whose taste you trust. They’ll be full of ideas (and reassuring decisiveness). Meanwhile, let these designs get the creative cogs turning.

EMR Architecture

Tile the Bare Necessities

In this walk-in shower room, tiles only cover the parts of wall that will get wet. The floor, shower walls and behind the sinks. The designer has chosen to match the grout carefully, so it’s virtually invisible, giving a smooth, streamlined look.

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Emma Merry Styling

Take It Halfway

The tiles in this bathroom run around the walls uniformly at shoulder height for a very neat look. The details that make this style of tiling work are the choice of paint color on the walls above, and the trim, which is key to helping tiles run nicely into a plain wall.

Here, the soft pink paint color works beautifully with the brass fixtures and dark blue vanity, while the trim is stylish brass —visible as a design detail but not too loud.

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TG-Studio

Go Top to Bottom

Floor-to-ceiling tiles can lend a real air of swish hotel style to a bathroom. This windowless space has pale tiles covering every bit of wall, and even the bath panel, for total streamlining.

Where natural light is lacking, visual continuity like this can really help to open up a dark room (and larger tiles, like these, can also have the effect of stretching a smaller space).

Although the floor has different-colored tiles, they blend with the ceiling, bath and basin for an unfussy look.

Orchestrate

Here, the same all-over approach has been taken with the tiling, but in this case, the bright room gives more scope for a busier choice of tile —smaller in size and varied in tone.

The key to keeping the whole look airy and bright is the pale palette. The color variation is gentle and doesn’t break up the view, which is already punctuated by the bold black faucets and shower hardware.

Floors of Stone

Make Half Tiling Have a Purpose

The tiling in this scheme is the star of the show, yet it barely covers half of the room. The designer has given ordinary white subway tiles standout by laying them in a herringbone pattern. At the same time, the painted sections feel deliberate — the area above the basin is for storage and a mirror, while the other end of the shower (just seen in the reflection), which is finished with a stylish jagged edge, leaves room for a cabinet.

Shear Construction

Work in Feature Tiling

If you’ve fallen for more expensive tiles, but aren’t sure the budget will stretch, consider using them in a small area of the bathroom. Reduce usage even more if needed by choosing just enough tiles to protect the area directly behind the sink. Keep other tiles plain to maximize your feature.

Streamline a Slope

Attic conversions often include a new bathroom, and it’s not always obvious where tiling should start and finish. This walk-in shower is fully tiled, as the ceiling is low and likely to be doused daily.

The tiles continue at half-height in the rest of the room, but what’s clever is how they’re connected: The two triangular tiles on the narrow walls at either side of the shower link the awkwardly shaped enclosure with the rest of the space by helping the line of tiles to flow smoothly. Proof that the small touches are sometimes the ones that make a room.

In this attic bathroom, the sloping ceiling is high enough to avoid too much of a soaking, so tiles only cover the walls. Be sure to use appropriate paint in a design like this, though, as splashes are inevitable.

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Item 3 of 7

What Do You Tile First Floor Or Walls

When it comes to owning a home, there are many projects to consider. Homeowners should also keep in mind that some projects are best left to professionals. Finding the right professional contractor requires a lot of research. A job like tiling is a very specific and detail-oriented project. If you do not hire the right professional tile contractor, then you might as well just attempt complete the project yourself. If you aren’t sure how to do this, reading up on the ins and outs of completing a labor-intensive project like tiling is key. What do you tile first floor or walls? There is no set way, however, tiling the walls first seems like the best choice.

Let’s take a look below at what is involved and how the choice of the floor or the walls can vary.

Why Should I Tile My Bathroom

Taking on the project of tiling your bathroom could be a daunting task. However, it is a necessary one as it produces many positives in your home. Let’s take a look at the reasons for tiling.

Cost – durability and moisture resistance allows you to enjoy tile longer than any other material. Even though the upfront cost is higher for tile, you will enjoy the tile a lot longer and have reduced replacement costs.
Moisture resistance – with tile being waterproof, you will be able to use soaps, shampoos, and other strong cleaners in the bathroom without causing damage. Tiles are great at keeping the water from being absorbed into the walls and floors of your bathroom.
Durability – a hard material that can last a long time. Most stone tiles will last 100 years and ceramic tiles can last up to 75 years.
Heat absorption – tiles are great at keeping the heat in. This keeps your shower at room temperature in the summer and even warmer in the cooler months. Also, they will not damage or crack due to the changes in heat levels.
Ease of maintenance – if mold or mildew begin to show up on your tile, they are very easy to clean. Any wet environment in a home promotes mold and mildew growth. So, being able to use soap and water or any other solution and simple scrub away the mold and mildew with a sponge is a huge plus.

What Do I Need For This Project

A project such as tiling can require a lot of extra tools and equipment. Before you decide to take on this project yourself, go ahead and price out all of the equipment and materials and compare that with your time costs. Let’s take a look at what is required for successful project completion.

Materials

Tile
Grout
Plaster
Spacers
Adhesive
Sealer
Trim

Tools

Sponge and dry cloth
Trowel
Tile Cutter
Tape measure
Ruler
Pen or pencil
Sealant smoother
Level
Goggles
Gloves
Mask

Installing a bathroom wall.

How Do I Tile The Wall

Just like every home project, there is a list of instructions that you should follow to tile the floor or walls. Let’s take a look at the recommended instructions for tiling a wall.

Attach a baton in the horizontal position, on the datum point that you have originally measured out. Double-check that the baton is level for your initial starting point.
Begin adding tiles from the middle of the wall and work your way outward. Make sure to apply tile adhesive in an even covering of the entire tile.
Continue to work along the wall and use tile spacers to ensure that each tile is evenly spaced as it is affixed to the wall. As you approach a smaller area on the wall, go ahead and use your tile cutter to cut your tiles to fit the area.
As soon as you have finished your first row of tiles and can verify that they have stuck, you can remove the baton and begin working downward.
Using an edging strip to conceal a raw edge will require you to place it at the bottom edge underneath the end of the tile in your first row. You can then continue to place the tiles on top as you work up the wall.
After giving the tile adhesive time to dry you can begin removing the tile spacers. You will also dig out any excess adhesive to create an even grout line opportunity.
Now you will begin grouting your tile lines. Do your grouting in small sections as you go. You will want to give yourself time to sponge the excess grout off the tile before it hardens.
Now you will take your damp sponge and wipe away the grout residue. After the grout has had a couple of hours to dry, you will take a dry cloth and buff out any excess dried grout to create a nice shiny finish on the tiles surface.
In your wet areas of the shower, use a water-proof silicon to seal the joints.

Bathroom floor installation.

How Do I Tile The Floor

As you read above, there are instructions for every project. Following these instructions will all but ensure successful project completion. Let’s take a look at the instructions to complete the tiling of the floor.

Your first step is verifying that the floor you are about to tile is strong and solid. In most cases, you will be affixing your floor tile to the concrete slab foundation with tile adhesive.
Layout your tile pattern the way you would like to see it. This way you can be sure that the tile design fits your original planned idea. If you are working in a square space, you will likely work from the middle of the floor and fan-out from there.
Make sure that the first row is straight. Use your level and ruler to measure out the room dimensions. Once you have placed your first middle tile, you will work toward the edges of the room. Only spread adhesive in an area that you can tile quickly. If you adhesive the floor too much, it could dry too quickly and would cause extra work.
Be sure to use spacers in the same manner that you used them on the wall tiles. This keeps your floor tiles evenly spaced. Keep in mind that it is recommended that you use a lash clip system on any tiles that are considered polished and finished. Always use what is necessary to ensure spacing and leveling.
The moment the floor tiles are dry, you can begin grouting the floor tile. Remember to use a sponge to wipe away excess grout.

Is There A Right Or Wrong Choice

Believe it or not, there is no right or wrong answer to tile the floor or walls. Depending on the design of your bathroom, will determine your best course of action. In most cases, professional tilers recommend tiling a wall first. This ensures that no damage is brought to the tiles on the floor. It can get messy with grout and accidental tool drops, and you wouldn’t want to crack or stain the floor tile. In addition, by tiling the wall first, you can move onto the floor without waiting for the wall to completely dry. However, if you were to tile the floor first, you would have to wait for the tiling to completely dry before starting on the wall tile.

Other Recommended Maintenance

While you are adding tile to to the floor or walls in the house, there are other areas to pay attention to as well. If you have a baseboard that is coming off or need to replace it, you should know how long it takes for caulk to dry. Silicone takes 24 hours to cure, while fast drying takes 30-60 minutes. This is important to know so you have an idea of how quickly you can finish a project in the house and you give the caulk the time it needs.

Another area is the washing machine. As homeowners, we often forget maintenance around the home because of busy schedules. One of those maintenance areas is removing mold from the rubber seal of the washing machine. This is something that needs to be done when you see mold growing. There are a few ways you can avoid this such as leaving the washing machine door open after using it so it airs out. Another way is not leaving wet clothes sitting in the washing machine as this promotes mold growth.

Lastly, if you notice that your water heater is leaking water, you can still use the water in the home. This will give you time to call a professional to come to the house and allow you to continue on with your daily water needs. Unfortunately, you may be looking at a repair of the pressure relief valve, or temperature gauge or an aging water heater. However, a professional can help you determine the issue.

Professional tiler installing a bathroom floor.

When Do I Call A Professional

Calling on a professional tiler for this project is probably the best choice. Oftentimes homeowners do not have the tools or the patience and time to spend the weekend working on tiling a bathroom floor and wall. Leaving this one up to the professionals will save you money and ensure that the job is done correctly. If you aren’t sure who to call in your local area, reach out to your local home inspection team. Not only can they refer a reputable professional tiler, but they can also look for other potential bathroom repairs during the home inspection. Keep in mind, that they might find that other bathrooms or rooms in the home could benefit from a professional tiler. Always use your resources first before spending money.

Conclusion

When it comes to a flooring project, it can be very stressful. Making sure that your tiles are level and the design flows is very important. If you don’t have the tools or the time to complete this project, it is highly recommended that you call on a professional tiler. Before you begin any major upgrade to your walls or flooring, make sure to call on your local home inspection team. They can ensure that you don’t have other issues such as mold growth or water leaks in the walls. Contact Inside and Out Property Inspectors in Jacksonville, FL, and surrounding areas to get your home inspection done today.

Laying tiles in the bathroom St. Petersburg

PRICES

OUR WORKS

Bathroom tiling in St. Petersburg and Leningrad region

Price from 1000 rubles per m2

We cover everything: from a standard bathroom to a hammam and a pool

Laying tiles in the bathroom requires special skill from the tiler. Only if all technological standards are observed, the finished coating will last a long time. But no less important is its beauty and individual design. Our specialists are able to perform even the most complex options for laying tiles and mosaics in rooms with high humidity.

5 reasons to work with us

PROFESSIONAL TILE LAYER

Only tilers and mosaicists of the European level work for us. Experience from 10 years.

CUSTOMER FOCUS

We strive to optimize your costs, we provide all checks and calculations. We work on the days and hours that are convenient for you.

WARRANTY 2 YEARS

We are confident in the quality of our work, so we provide a guarantee for laying tiles in the bathroom under the contract.

ASSISTANCE IN PURCHASING MATERIALS

During the first visit, the master will advise on the materials – where is cheaper, what is better. If necessary, he will buy everything himself.

NO ADVANCE

Yes, we do not take advance payment for order fulfillment. Actual payment.

Operation

In order for each client to get the maximum result, we have a rule: the order “from” and “to” is performed by one master.

Give us a call and we’ll find a tiler who can do the job in the best possible way.


Stepan – more than 13 years of experience	Andrey – work experience over 10 years	Yuri – work experience over 11 years	Alexander – work experience over 13 years	Saveliy – more than 14 years of experience

First meeting with a client – consulting. The specialist looks at the scope of work, makes calculations and makes an estimate *. This does not oblige you to order.
The master tells what materials and in what quantity are needed. Don’t have time to shop on your own? And this can be entrusted to us, we guarantee a full report on checks.
We conclude a written contract with fixed terms and cost. The contract is your and our legal insurance.
The specialist brings all the necessary tools with him. If large-format tiles need to be cut, this is done in production.
Step-by-step execution of the order in accordance with the technology, including preparatory work.
A tiler puts garbage in bags. Please note that we do not collect rubbish.
The client takes a ready-made bath / bathroom / hammam / pool and pays after the fact.

*The estimate contains approximate estimates. An increase in cost is possible in several cases: if the customer asks to perform additional work; during dismantling, nuances were revealed that require additional investments. For example, walls in old houses require more leveling compound, etc.

Bathroom tiling – the most practical finish

Gallery of works

We work in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region in all districts

We carry out all types of installation, from simple to designer

more work done

What kind of work we do

Dismantling of old bathroom/shower/toilet covers.
Surface preparation (filling with a level, making a screed, plastering walls on beacons, waterproofing, primer treatment, concrete contact).
Laying tiles on walls and floors (porcelain stoneware, tile, mosaic, stone).
Other related works: installation of underfloor heating, production of shower trays, wiring and installation of plumbing fixtures (installation of sinks and bathtubs), production of tile bath screens, creation of niches and boxes, installation of hidden hatches, installation of slatted ceilings, installation of lamps and fittings.

“Your tiler” is a small, close-knit team of craftsmen.

We do not pursue volumes and turnovers, we do not increase the price per m2.

It is more important for us to do our job honestly and get excellent results.

Prices for laying tiles in the bathroom in St. Petersburg:

Surface preparation work for bathroom tiles
Dismantling old tiles	from 200 rub/m2
Wall plastering on lighthouses	from 500 rub/m2
Alignment of walls with glue	from 300 rub/m2
Floor leveling	from 200 rub/m2
Wall and floor waterproofing	from 350r/m2
Surface treatment with primer	from 150r/m2
Surface treatment with concrete contact	from 170r/m2

Wall tiling
Direct tiling	from 1000r/m2
Matching tiles to the ceiling	from 180r/m rm.
45 degree tile cut	from 400r/m rm.
Ceramic plinth	from 300 rub/m
Grouting tiles	from 200 rub/m2
Box lining	from 1100r/m2
Laying a border (tile decor)	from 250 r/m
Installation of a ceramic corner on the bathtub	from 400r/m rm.
Drilling holes for pipes/dowels	from 200r/pc.
Mosaic installation	from 1100r/m2
Grouting (mosaic)	from 300 rub/m2
Stone laying	from 1100r/m2
Grout (stone)	from 400 rub/m2
Manufacture of boxes	Contractual price (calculated as per product, not per square meter or per linear meter)
Installation of concealed hatches	Negotiated price

Floor tiles
Tiling (straight laying)	from 1000r/m2
Diagonal tiling	from 1100r/m2
Grouting tiles	from 200 rub/m2
Mosaic installation	from 1100r/m2
Mosaic grouting	from 300 rub/m2
Installation of underfloor heating	from 350r/m2

*Prices on the site are not a public offer and are indicative.

Do you like our prices? We propose the following algorithm of actions

You call or leave a request for a call back.

(You can ask questions, the call is answered by the master tiler, not the operator)

The master goes to the place free of charge.

(Calculations and budgeting are being made, terms of work are being negotiated)

Start of work as agreed.

(The master can start work on the first day, immediately after the completion of order discussions)

In accordance with the terms, you accept the finished work and pay for the services of the master.

Would you like a consultation:

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS?

Call right now and get comprehensive advice
on all issues!

PLANNING TO LAY TILE IN YOUR BATHROOM?

Departure for measurement and estimating FOR FREE!

LOOKING FOR A MASTER?

Any kind of work. Call!

Master Yury: +7 921 438-91-71

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How to properly tile a bathroom

Home » Miscellaneous » How to properly tile a bathroom

Tiling a bathroom, stages and technology of work

From the point of view of aesthetics and compliance with the sanitary regime, tiling a bathroom is the most acceptable option. The tile is moisture resistant, durable, easy to clean. In addition, the widest range will allow tiling bathroom tiles in accordance with any idea or design idea. It is not difficult to lay walls and floors with ceramic tiles with your own hands, the main thing at the same time is to acquire high-quality material so that it can easily withstand temperature extremes, high levels of humidity, and exposure to steam. And then the renovation in the bathroom will delight the owners for a long time.

Tools and materials

When choosing a bathroom cladding material, consider the following characteristics:

technical parameters – strength, abrasion resistance, surface smoothness or porosity, chemical resistance. So, floor ceramic tiles for the bathroom should be distinguished by high wear resistance and a non-smooth surface;
aesthetic parameters – color, ornament, compliance with the style decision of the room being designed;
size and correct geometric shape.

Ceramic tiles are of various types, depending on the manufacturing method:

bicottura are glazed ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding, their surface is double fired. Also with double firing there is a metlakh tile made from quarry clay. Not suitable for flooring. Glazed ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding are very durable, but their smooth surface is not suitable for laying on the floor. The exception is embossed tile glaze;
monocottura – single-fired tiles. Durable, suitable for flooring;
the most durable clinker tile, usually used for laying on the floor, resembles a brick in its appearance;
mosaic – small tiles glued to a mesh;
porcelain stoneware imitating natural stone;
glass and mirror tiles for walls and ceilings. It is subject to mechanical stress, so you can not lay the floor with it.

Mosaic

Mirror

Clinker

Bicottura

Porcelain stoneware

Monocottura

5 percent on stock (trimming, scrap, defects in cutting material).

In addition to tiles, the following materials are required:

tile adhesive;
primer, which must be anti-fungal;
grout;
spacers (crosses) to regulate the thickness of the joints between tiles;
silicone sealant;
bathtub sealing tape;
masking tape.

Do not forget that all materials used for ceramic tiling must be moisture resistant. From the tools you will need devices for applying and mixing the solution: a rubber or notched trowel for grouting, a container for primer and glue. Cutting tiles is carried out with a tile cutter, grinder or ordinary glass cutter, depending on the thickness and strength of the tile. In order to grind the edges of the tiles, you will need sandpaper. A rubber mallet is needed for tapping the material, its snug fit to the glue base. Also, you can’t do without a building level, a wooden slat to support the bottom row of tiles, as well as bricks, if necessary, to lay the screen space under the bathroom.

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage of the process of cladding surfaces for the bathroom consists of the following work:

, if necessary, clean the bathroom from the old plumbing;
Top coating (lime, paint, old tiles) is removed from walls and floors. If the walls previously had a painted surface, the paint is burned out and carefully removed to the concrete to achieve the best adhesion. You can remove old paint with a special remover, which can be purchased at a hardware store;
if the sewerage and drainage system is old, then it is recommended to replace it by distributing the pipes to the pre-thought-out location of the bath (shower), washbasin, toilet bowl and washing machine. In this case, it is better to hide the sink piping in the wall by making strobes vertically to the width of the faucet connector. If desired, you can also hide the liner for the heated towel rail in the wall;
the bathroom floor is thoroughly swept and cleaned of debris;
Walls and floors are level checked for irregularities for further correction. The turn of the corners is checked with a square;
The walls are leveled with beacons, preferably using gypsum plaster, because when it dries it becomes lighter than cement, which prevents it from crumbling and facilitates the leveling process. Gypsum plaster mortar is prepared using slightly more water than indicated on the package. So it will be more pliable and easier to apply to the walls. The primer solution is applied in 2-3 stages as each previous layer dries. You can learn more about the process of preparing walls for bathroom tiles here, which reveals all the points;
the composition of the mixture for pouring the floor (economical option): cement and screening of crushed stone in a ratio of 1 to 3 are diluted with water to a consistency resembling thick sour cream. Using the rule, the mixture is leveled between the beacons. The drying time of the solution is approximately one day. After this time, you should use the rule to knock down bumps and bumps from the floor surface. The primer is applied in two or three layers, in the same way as on the walls;
the ceiling is cleaned of paint and lime, prepared for plastering, primed.

Removing old paint from the walls

Removing the old flooring

Concrete screed for leveling the floor

Leveling the walls

Types of installation th amount of tiles.

The classic way of laying, “seam to seam”, forms even horizontal or vertical rows. In this case, the vertical seams are leveled by a plumb line, and the horizontal seams by level.

The tie-in method is a laying in which each ceramic tile is located in the middle of the seam that separates the two tiles of the bottom row. Tiling diagonally, the seams between the tiles are perpendicular to each other, and the tiles are laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This is a more difficult way to tile surfaces because a lot of well-calibrated tiles are required.

Combined wall cladding technology with ceramic tiles combines several types of cladding. This method is suitable for spacious bathrooms, while you can combine mosaic tiles with ordinary tiles, smooth tiles with relief tiles in various color combinations, it is important to observe the harmony of the ornament and the thoughtfulness of the combination.

Tiling options

Where to start

Good bathroom tiling depends on the correct tiling of all surfaces, including the ceiling. Tiled masonry of each of them has its own characteristics:

walls – facing ceramic tiles are laid first on the floor, then on the walls. Facing the width of the wall should always start from the far corner relative to the entrance to the room. Thus, a base surface is created for further cladding. It must be remembered that the wall with the doorway is laid out last, then a strip is formed above the door. This will avoid numerous pruning in prominent areas of the walls. In height, laying wall tiles starts from the floor level or the edge of the bath, if it is already installed. When laying relative to the level of the bath, a rail is attached around the entire perimeter of the room, at the level of which the first row of tiles will be laid;
floor – marking for laying tiles on the floor starts from the most visible corner and continues around the entire perimeter of the room;
ceiling – when laying ceiling tiles, you can start from the center or from the edge along the marked line.

From the corner of the floor

From the corner of the wall

From the center of the wall

About the center of the floor

Bathroom tiling process

Before designing a bathroom, it is necessary to make accurate calculations of the required amount of tiles in accordance with the area of the room. You need to purchase the entire required volume of tiles at once in order to avoid color discrepancies if you make several purchases. This is due to the fact that different batches of one supplier, and, moreover, one brand of tiles from different suppliers may have differences in shades and texture.

In addition to tiling the surfaces of the room, you can tile the bath itself to create a harmonious interior. Before tiling the bath with tiles, it is necessary to make a base for tiling. This frame is brickwork or moisture-resistant drywall. A facing screen can be made from drywall if the bath is rounded. Since it is problematic to lay ceramic tiles on a curved surface, tiling the bathtub with mosaics is the best option. It can be glued both from the outside and from the inside. Facing a cast-iron bath with a mosaic will allow you to return it to a new life if it has long lost its original appearance.

Walls

Walls are measured in width and height, then distribute the tiles in such a way that the corners have the same undercuts, or they converge in an inconspicuous corner. The height of the undercuts must be at least half the width of the whole tile.

Tile adhesive for wall cladding is diluted strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package, mixed thoroughly. The adhesive solution is applied to the tile in an even layer of approximately 0.5-0.7 cm using a notched and capped trowel. The grooves formed by a notched trowel contribute to the removal of air from the adhesive and a tighter fit of the tile to the wall, while filling minor defects and irregularities.

Preparation of tile adhesive

At the level of the bottom row of tiles, a wooden block is fixed exactly in level. From this rail begins to lay out the tile. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles is carried out with a “ladder”, that is, along the tile of the bottom row ascending from the corner, while not forgetting to insert cross stitches. The joint between the walls is decorated with a decorative corner or the tiles are laid joint to joint. After one day, the holding level is removed, trimmings are marked and glued on top and bottom of the walls.

Almost any type of tile is suitable for decorating wall surfaces, glazed ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding look especially aesthetically pleasing, as well as a combined combination of mosaics with smooth matte or glossy tiles. A more complete technology on how to lay tiles on a wall will be presented here.

Install the guide rail using a spirit level

Laying the first row of tiles

Adjusting the tile position and joint width

Grouting

Flooring

Flooring with ceramic tiles is usually done before the walls are laid. The length and width of the floor surface are measured so that the trimmings in the corners go under the bathtub and are invisible. The space between the wall tiles and the floor is filled with silicone sealant. Often, floor tiles are laid diagonally, despite the fact that this method can cause difficulties with marking and laying directly.

The marking of the tiles on the floor starts from the most visible corner, from which further laying continues. The process of gluing tiles to the floor is similar to laying on the walls. For better shrinkage after gluing, the tile should be tapped with a rubber mallet so that it lies more tightly on the floor surface. The adhesive solution is not applied to the entire floor area, but only to the space for two or three tiles. During the working process, it is necessary to check the evenness of the laid tiles with a level. At the end of the work, when the crosses are removed and the solution has dried, the lined floor is rubbed with a grout mixture using a rubber spatula. Excess grout is then easily removed from the tiled surface. It is better to read the full version of how to carry out the technology of laying tiles on the floor, so as not to miss important nuances.

Tile grout must be not only moisture resistant, but also antifungal.

Floor marking for traditional and diagonal laying

These tools are indispensable when laying tiles on the floor

Laying tiles perfectly flat. To do this, you must first plaster the ceiling with cement mortar, a rotband, and profile beacons are installed for an even plaster layer. They are glued to the cement track on the ceiling, in which you can add a little glue to make the mass elastic. After one day, a solution is thrown between the beacon profiles and pulled together by the rule. After a few hours, the surface is rubbed, primed. It is necessary to wait 3-7 days for the plaster to “set” well so that the weight of the tile does not affect its holding capacity.

Before tiling the ceiling, it must be drawn with reference points, since it is difficult to apply a level when gluing tiles to the ceiling. The adhesive mortar is applied both to the tile itself and to the ceiling with a notched trowel. It is better to choose spacer crosses with a thickness of 3 mm, so that laying errors are not so noticeable. The cladding process must be accompanied by a level check for surface evenness. In general, the process of facing the ceiling surface does not differ from laying tiles on other surfaces.

Installing ceramic tiles on a plasterboard ceiling

Video

How to clad bathroom walls and shower/bath areas | Instructions

In our project, we brought an old bathroom from the 70s into a classic Art Deco style. We removed the wall where an old vanity was replacing a double vanity. To prepare the plumbing for the new washbasin, a ventilated T (Picture 1) was added and the downpipe was lengthened.

Since the back panel is already installed around the bathtub, the tile is ready for installation. As part of our project, the homeowner met with a tile expert for design advice and was impressed with the handmade 3×6 inch subway tile. Compared to mechanical or machine-made tiles, which are cheaper, handmade tiles feature more glaze pooling at the edges and appear more textured (Picture 2).

In our project, the homeowners chose to use machine-made subway tiles ($2 to $4 per square foot) instead of handmade tiles (about $13 to $30 per square foot). The machine tile (Picture 3) is easy to install by yourself as the tile has a beveled look. As a result, you don’t need to use tile spacers. Both the subway tile and the accent tile we used are self-spacing so no spacers are required. These tiles have a small ledge that creates an even gap between the tiles, creating perfectly spaced grout joints.

Finishes include top caps called Listello and the use of accent tiles between the top cap and field tiles. Field tiles are tiles in the main field of a floor or wall, and are flat, unlike edged tiles, which are shaped. Border tiles border field tiles while accent tiles are used to add interest, usually mixed with field tiles.

Before you begin tiling, determine the location of your tile pattern after measuring all areas to be tiled as well as tiles. Make a diagram of each wall to help you decide where to place the tiles (Picture 4). Before laying the field tile, determine where the accent and border tiles will be placed.

In our project, we used white subway tiles in the margins and green glass tiles as an accent border for the shower area and walls.

The black accent tiles (Picture 5) have been mixed with the floor tiles.

How to install shower tiles | Instructions

In our project we used Crema Marfil, an Italian marble effect tile. Tiles come in different sizes, previously laid out on mats. On the shower room ceiling and floor we used 2″x2″ tiles and on the shower room walls we used 2″x4″ tiles.

Save time by installing multiple tiles at once. Before you start laying the tiles, take a few measurements and see how all the tiles will be laid out (Picture 1).

In our project, we first install the tiles on the wall opposite the shower door. Measure the top and bottom of the shower wall (ours is 82 inches long) to make sure it’s straight and doesn’t lean in or out. Tip: Plan your design layout in “panels” in increments of three horizontal rows of tiles.

Dry dry the tile panels, including any decorative borders, to see how they will lay vertically on the wall. This lets you see how many panels can fit, where you need to make cuts, and where to start customizing.

In our project, the back wall is a constant 48-1/2″ wide and we used a decorative 3″ tiled border between the second and third panels from the top of the shower (Picture 2).

For accurate measurements, specify how you will install the panels. After dry laying, determine the best place to start laying the tiles, working from the bottom up. Our project has several panels and an 84-1/2-inch mosaic border. We started 72-1/2 inches from the top of the shower. The rest of the lower panels come last, because you will need to make cuts.

How to lay the concrete floor in the bathroom | House Manuals

A regular stove is not the nicest look for house hunters or in your new home. You can update this solid color look to attract buyers or as an early project in your new home with a little preparation. In order to properly tile on concrete, the tiled floor in the bathroom must be even and even. Before you begin, you need to repair any cracks in the surface of the slab. If the cracks are too deep or create a difference of more than 1 inch in the surface of the slab, a piece of slab may need to be professionally removed for repair. Allow the new concrete slab to cure for at least 28 days after it has been poured before tiling begins.

Prepare the floor for tiling

Remove the skirting boards by prying them out with a pry bar. Save the skirting boards for re-installation later.

Cut the base of the doorways to the thickness of the tile being used. Hold the hacksaw horizontally to make cuts.

Shut off the water supply to the toilet at the supply tap. Flush the toilet to remove water from the toilet and cistern. Using an adjustable wrench, loosen and remove the bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Get the stool out of the way. Put a rag down the drain to keep debris from clogging it and to minimize the smell of sewer gas.

Check the floor for chemicals used to protect the floor and speed up its curing by applying a little water to the floor. If these chemicals are present, the water will drop. Leaving the caulk on the floor will prevent the tile grout from sticking. Remove the sealant with a floor grinder using medium grit sandpaper.

Run a ruler or a straight-edged piece of scrap across the surface of the bathroom floor. Mark any high or low points on the floor with a marker.

Mix Portland Cement Floor Leveling Compound according to package directions. Add enough water so that the mixture has the consistency of pancakes. Apply the compound to the cracks with a spatula or drywall tool. Blend the edges to blend into the surrounding concrete. Allow the compound to dry following the manufacturer’s recommendations. In most cases, the drying time is 24 hours.

Remove floor projections with a hand sander. Be careful not to remove too much cement.

Wipe the floor with clean water to remove any traces of dust.

Laying tiles on concrete

Lay ceramic tiles on the floor dry. Plan your layout so that there are full-size tiles in front of the bathroom and in the doorway. Avoid using tiles less than 2 inches wide, as they are easy to break when you cut them to install.

Chalk lines on the floor to indicate where you plan to start laying the full tiles. Use a carpenter’s square so that the lines intersect at right angles.

Mix thinner according to package directions, adding enough water to give thinner the consistency of mashed potatoes. Apply enough slurry to the floor with a notched trowel to allow two or three tiles to be laid at a time. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the installation depth of ceramic tiles. Press the tiles firmly into a thin layer.

Place the next tile next to the first one. Use spacers to keep the seams straight. Continue adding a thin layer to the floor and tiling until all full size tiles have been laid.

Measure and cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room using a tile cutter. Leave 1/8 inch for the compensator. Cut the tiles with the blade on the cutter, then break them in two. If you like, use a wet saw to cut through the tiles. In areas too narrow for trowel application, apply thinner to the back of the tile.

Let the mortar dry. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. We remove spacers.

Install the expansion rings on the toilet flange with stainless steel screws. The rings should be flush with the new tiles.

Insert the support rod into the expansion joints around the room. This prevents mortar from entering these seams.

Knead the grout to a puree consistency. Fill the joints between tiles with grout. Spread the solution back and forth and diagonally. Scrape off the excess with the side of the float.

Remove excess mortar from the floor with a clean sponge as soon as the mortar begins to set in the joints. Make another pass to remove the solution, which is not the first time. Wipe off any grout that dries to a matt finish with a clean, dry cloth.

Let the mortar dry overnight.

Remove the support rod from the compensators. Apply a bead of silicone sealant that matches the mortar into the expansion joints.

Reinstall the toilet. Attach it to the new ring you installed. Connect the water supply and turn the water back on.

Reattach the skirting boards to the wall of the room.

How to tile the bathroom floor

speed square
thin mortar
grout
sealant
tile spacers
wax pencil
wet tile saw
measuring tape
notched trowel
sandpaper
safety glasses
grout paste
sponge
soft fabric

1. Buy enough tiles to cover the entire project, taking into account any halves, pieces of scrap and replacement tiles.

Tip: Be sure to purchase the tiles now, as tiles from another stock may look different.

Lay tiles on the floor to distribute the grid in space, starting from the middle of the bathroom floor. The dry assembly process is especially important if you are setting up a pattern. Make sure you have enough to cover the area and that any patterns end up evenly around the edges.

When you are satisfied with the placement, circle the center tile to mark its position and determine which cuts will be required. Make marks directly on the floor surface and on the tile where cuts are required.

2. Stir the thin mortar to the consistency of peanut butter, or use another adhesive recommended by the tile manufacturer. Apply the mortar or adhesive with a notched trowel directly to the floor surface, starting from the middle of the floor, holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle.

Mix as much thin mortar as can be applied in one hour; otherwise it will dry out and not be as effective.

3. Starting with the center tile, lay the bathroom tiles one by one in the applied mortar or adhesive, rocking or twisting each tile to ensure a firm connection. Insert spacers to keep tiles separated and leave room for grout.

Make any cuts you need for the best fit of the tile with a wet tile saw. First mark the cuts with a wax pencil.

In our project, the cutouts included a round slot around the toilet flange.

To make a circular cut, make a series of cuts in the tile, one next to the other, so that they break off and form a half-circle cut.

Continue tiling to complete the floor by making the necessary cuts in the tiles.

Use sandpaper or a tile stone to smooth the edges of the cut tiles if necessary.

4. Let the tile dry overnight or as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. When the tiles are completely dry, remove the tile spacers and grout the floor.