How To Paint Over Gloss Skirting
Painting over gloss is a great way to bring some new life into your worn out skirting boards. If you have never painted over gloss skirting, there are some things that need to be done before you can get that glossy look on your boards.
Gloss paint is renowned for not only being shiny, but also hard-wearing, making it great for bare wood surfaces such as skirting and doors. Before you apply paint to your existing skirting boards, it’s important to note that you should never paint over glossy surfaces as it won’t stick to the skirting.
At Skirting 4 U, we understand the importance of making your skirting boards look incredible around your home. This is why we’ve put this guide together to help you understand how to paint over gloss skirting boards properly.
Can you paint over gloss skirting boards?
While painting over gloss skirting boards is possible, we recommend not doing this as it doesn’t provide good adhesion to the skirting’s surface. It means that the newly painted gloss surface will end up chipping after a few days, leaving you once again with tired and worn out skirting boards.
Before painting the skirting boards, you should clean it with sugar soap first and then sand it with a fine grit sandpaper. By doing this, it’ll provide the correct surface for the paint to stick to the skirting. It means that when you are painting your skirting, you’ll have nice smooth lines that’ll give it a stunning finish to any room in your home.
Whether you are experienced or new to painting over gloss skirting, we have four steps to help you with this process.
Prepare the area before painting over skirting
Preparation is a key part of painting over your gloss skirting boards. It’s worth moving any furniture that may be blocking the skirting, as well as putting down dust sheets to avoid any paint landing on the floor.
When you start to paint your skirting, you should make sure that the room is well-ventilated. If you are painting around light switches, then it’s a good idea to use decorator’s tape. By doing this, it means that the gloss paint does not end up on your carpet or your wall.
It means that when you are painting your skirting, you’ll have nice smooth lines that’ll give it a stunning finish to any room in your home.
Clean and sand the skirting boards
Cleaning and sanding your skirting boards are two important steps that need to be done before you paint the skirting. Overtime, dirt and grease can build up on your skirting, which is what happens when you’ve not cleaned or painted your skirting for a considerable amount of time.
Before you sand the skirting, you should give your dirt or grease-ridden boards a thorough clean with sugar soap and a new cloth. If there are any cracks in the skirting’s surface, you should fill them with wood filler and leave it to dry off. Once the skirting has dried off, you can start the process of sanding the boards.
When it comes to sanding the skirting, the goal is to take the very top coat of paint off the boards. If you have used wood filler, you should rub it down with a 120-grit sandpaper, before sanding the skirting boards with a 180-grit sandpaper.
Once the gloss surface has been sanded off, wipe the dust off with a damp cloth and leave it to dry.
Paint an undercoat first
If you are painting your skirting with gloss paint, you’ll need to have painted at least one coat of an undercoat to the surface. It’s worth using between a two or three-inch brush with horizontal strokes to apply that layer of paint to the skirting.
Once you’ve painted the undercoat, you should leave it to dry. It takes typically around one to two hours for the undercoat to dry. If you want to apply a second undercoat, you should paint the skirting again and then leave the skirting to dry for a similar amount of time to the first undercoat.
Apply the top coat for a gloss finish
Once the undercoats have dried off, you can then apply the top coat to the skirting. This is dependent on the type of paint you want to apply to the boards, whether that is gloss, eggshell or satin. You also need to decide in advance the colour you want to use to paint your skirting so that it fits the home interior you are trying to achieve.
While one coat should be enough, you may want to include a second top coat to the skirting. After you’ve painted the first coat of gloss to the skirting, you will need to leave it for 24 hours for it to completely dry before you can add the final top coat of gloss paint. Once the second top coat has dried completely, your repainted gloss skirting boards will look as good as new.
We hope this guide to how to paint over gloss skirting will help you when it comes to painting over your skirting boards. If you have any questions about repainting your MDF, oak or pine skirting with gloss or satin paint, you can speak to one of our expert sales team members today.
How To Paint Over Gloss Skirting Boards | 5 Step DIY Guide
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Posted by Lee Watkinson on 16th Aug 2021
Gloss paint is the most common choice for skirting boards and other woodwork around the home. Because gloss can go yellow over time, it might be time for a fresh coat. So, how do you paint over gloss skirting?
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Clean & Sand
If you want to get stuck in and paint over gloss skirting, thoroughly clean and sand the surface. If done properly, you’ll have no problem adding a layer or two of fresh paint.
If you’re here for a more detailed guide, continue reading and we’ll break it down further.
Easy Guide For Painting Over Gloss
Whether you’re using satin paint or gloss paint, this guide will work for you.
You’ll find that the most important aspect of painting over gloss skirting is the preparation. Follow the first steps closely and a professional finish will be much easier to achieve when repainting skirting boards.
1. Clean The Surface Of The Skirting Board
A damp cloth or rag will suffice here. Make sure you get into all the grooves and detail on the skirting board for a thorough clean.
Dirt and grime are what you are looking to remove. Grease can be present in a kitchen which is tougher to remove so take extra care in these areas.
If you have some stubborn stains, it might be best to use a little sugar soap too. This will really help to break down the residue making it much easier to clean away.
Once you are satisfied that the skirting is clean, allow it to completely dry before moving on.
2. Sand The Surface
Now that your skirting is squeaky clean, the new gloss paint needs a little extra work so that it has a perfect surface to adhere to.
You shouldn’t be trying to strip back layers of old paint here. All you are aiming for is to take the very top layer off.
In doing so, you will leave a smooth and uniform surface on which to paint. Sanding also helps to remove any of the very stubborn dirt that simply cleaning would not shift.
We recommend using a 120 grit sandpaper. It will be strong enough to sand away a layer of paint without leaving deep gouges in the surface.
When sanding a corner or an edge, take it a little easier. The paint will come off of these sections much quicker and you might end up exposing the wood underneath.
3. Clean The Skirtings Again
After you have sanded the skirting down, you’ll have created a fair bit of dust.
Again, a damp cloth or rag will do the trick to remove this. You can vacuum the dust from the carpet / floor at this point too.
Removing as much of the dirt and dust now will reduce the chances of anything unwanted sticking to the gloss when you start painting. Taking your time in the cleaning stages will pay off when it comes to having a professional end result.
4. Masking Tape
This is another vital step where you’ll need to spend a little more time in order to get the best results.
Using masking tape, you can mask off the area directly above and below the skirting board. This will normally be the wall and the flooring / carpet to ensure that the fresh gloss doesn’t go anywhere other than on the skirting.
Doing this properly will leave nice sharp lines around the edges of the skirting.
5. Paint The Skirting
With the time and effort you’ve put into the previous steps, applying the new coat of gloss should be a breeze.
As you are painting the skirting board, apply paint to the brush sparingly as you are only covering a small surface area. This will help to prevent the paint running and pooling up.
Horizontal strokes are best used in this scenario and if you see drips or runs forming, quickly brush them out.
We’d recommend a couple of coats of gloss for good coverage and longevity of the finish. Being gloss, you’ll have to wait longer in between the coats for the first layer to completely dry.
If you’re using a water based paint, you may find that the section you started on is dry once you have completed the first coat in the room. If this is the case, you can repeat the process straight away obviously making this paint choice a quicker option to complete.
That’s it, you’ve cleaned and painted your way to a perfect gloss finish on your skirting boards! Hopefully, we’ve given you all the advice you need and now you know how to repaint skirting boards.
All that’s left to now is to sit back and admire your handy work.
Digital Marketing Director at Skirting World with 10 years of experience in Home Interiors & Manufacturing.
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Difficulties in painting skirting boards
Painting the baseboard with your own hands is easy. Seriously. Take a roller or brush and apply paint. The most important thing is not to forget to enjoy the process. And then evaluate the result . ..
What is the difference between professionally painted products, even such simple ones as skirting boards and profiles, and products painted by amateurs? The fact that they have invested a lot of experience of the masters, which helps to avoid mistakes and guarantees a quality result!
We paint skirting boards. In any color according to the RAL and NCS palette!
We also paint moldings and cornices, corners and even high density polystyrene wall panels. We have gone through fire, water and copper pipes in order to ensure that our product – painted products – is of the highest quality. We know the nuances of combining different types of paints and painted surfaces.
Now let’s talk about our experience: what problems we encountered and how we solved them, continuously and persistently bringing our product to perfection.
The first problem we encountered was the following:
Plinth blanks (blanks)
Initially blanks (plinth blanks) came to us “bald”. In simple terms, the plinth blank was made of MDF without lamination. They had to be primed, then sanded, then primed again and sanded again, and only then it was possible to move on to painting … By switching to another primer, it was possible to abolish one stage of priming, but still, the laboriousness and duration of the process of sanding 2.5 meters of the plinth is difficult to describe. We began to look for options to simplify the process of preparing for painting. Our partners made blanks for us with a laminated front side (as they do with furniture fronts), but the end still remained “bald” and again the primer, sandpaper, etc. What to do? It was necessary to look for a blank that would not have to be primed at all! Our partners offered us a variant of a blank wrapped in a primed film and after a series of tests (adhesion, resistance to mechanical damage, etc. ) with several colors of paint, we were satisfied with the result and released a test series of the skirting board. And everything would be like in a fairy tale, if not for one BUT. It turned out that the base on which the film is glued reacts with our thinners (present in the paint composition) and eventually peel off from the blank. It only became clear a few days later. The entire batch was recalled and disposed of (about 1000 pieces). Work began on the selection of a suitable adhesive composition that does not react with organic thinners. It took several weeks of testing, and finally, the desired effect was achieved! Having carried out tests with the same paints as before, we launched the batch into work. But again, not everything is so smooth.
After some time, it turned out that some of the paints that were not included in the tests were made on a different base (paint base), and this base showed very poor adhesion performance, in other words, it was easily scratched and peeled off. I had to return a huge number of skirting boards back and dispose of. As a result, we came to the conclusion that serial samples of plinth blanks that can be bought in the store do not suit our tasks, something else is needed. And yet our partners made us a blank with a film and glue that had excellent adhesion to paints of any color, on any base (including water), did not react with glue and satisfied all our requirements. The test samples arrived in good quality, but the next delivery looked much worse. Presumably, as a result of trimming the blanks in production, particles of the new film and glue fell on the surface of the blanks and dried up, then, when packing in boxes and palletizing, the dried particles were pressed into the surface of the film, leaving a depression on the surface after removal, scratching it during transportation, and the worst that they are very difficult to remove from the surface before painting. At the moment, problems with dried particles on the surface are practically eliminated, but the pursuit of the ideal is endless!
But now we can say with confidence that we use a unique blank for painting skirting boards, it is made exclusively for us and no one else has it!
The second problem is the occurrence of “craters”.
What can happen after staining the skirting board? Craters are a paint defect that looks like a small hole in the surface with raised edges, looks like a volcano crater
Craters appear on parts for many reasons:
1. Getting into the pneumatic system of oil or oil-containing particles, water, etc.
2. Poorly degreased part
3. Poorly cleaned supply air
4. Ingress of foreign liquids into the paint
5. The use of cheap “fast” thinners (The surface of the paint dries quickly, forming a film, air bubbles from the paint do not have time to escape and bursting on the surface do not stretch, forming craters)
6. Insufficient paint layer, etc.
In our case, due to the competent location of production sites, the installation of oil filters on the pneumatic system, the installation of a special dehumidification system on the pneumatic system, the installation of filters on the supply ventilation, thorough cleaning and degreasing of parts before painting, this does not happen to us.
What does the painter face in the process of painting the baseboard?
Shagreen is the “ripple” on the surface of a painted part.
The shagreen can be done on purpose (cars are painted with a light pebble) or due to the painter’s curvature (application with excessive pressure, too close to the part, too thick paint, etc.). I don’t know what to write about shagreen in our case, we are experienced, we didn’t have this.
Preliminary work. Risks
Before painting, the painter applies risks. Risks are shallow scratches on the surface, applied specially with sanding paper. It is done to increase the adhesion of the paint to the part. This process is called “Matting” from the word haze or gloss removal (paint adheres worse to gloss). All our MDF skirting boards are matted before painting. Polystyrene does not need this procedure. adhesion between paint and polystyrene occurs in a different way (paint penetrates the structure of polystyrene due to its porosity, in simple terms).
At the very beginning, we immediately decided to pack all the skirting boards produced in our workshop in individual packaging. It was decided to use a polyolefin thermal film. For these purposes, a special thermal tunnel was purchased and converted for the packaging of our products. Setting up the equipment to achieve the result took about two weeks. There were no particular difficulties, we picked up the belt speed, temperature, width and thickness of the sleeve. In fact, somehow everything from the very beginning turned out to be smooth, without nuances, and the manufacturer approached us from the very beginning and the tunnel.
Nice bonus for ease of installation
Fittings – A year has passed since the start of production, all difficulties were overcome, but the sellers told us that the buyers do not have enough fittings for mounting MDF plinth, namely the formation of corners and endings. Not everyone managed to find a competent craftsman who could qualitatively make cuts on an MDF plinth. It turned out that our colleagues produce plastic fittings for the entire 80 series MDF skirting, we decided to try to paint the fittings in our 16 basic colors. As in the case of polystyrene, the polyurethane paint corroded the plastic, they began to paint it with water and everything turned out great! The only hardware color that we paint with polyurethane paint is RAL 9003 is glossy and will not corrode plastic due to the use of a different hardener.
That’s not all. Plastic fittings stand out in one way or another, and it will not work to decorate the ending with plastic fittings, and for this case, we came up with an ending made of MDF.
With such a plug, you can decorate the plinth stick with the door trim neatly and beautifully.
How much time do you save when ordering skirting board painting from us? Minimum 3 days! From the process of preparation for staining and until the moment of complete drying with professional staining, it takes about three days!
You save money because we guarantee high quality coloring, which means no expenses for correcting mistakes. You also save money with the included free repair kit. All in all, a total benefit. Well, the nervous system will thank you for saving it from all the troubles associated with the nuances of high-quality staining and getting a product ready for installation with a 3-year warranty!
Tags: Skirting board painting
Products from article
HDSP plinth Magic wand FD8 80mm 2m. RAL 9003
Plinth HDSP Magic wand FD8 80mm 2m. RAL 9005
MDF baseboard Magic wand 80M 80mm NCS 4005-Y20R
MDF baseboard Magic wand 80M 80mm RAL 7036
MDF baseboard Magic wand 80M 80mm RAL 9003G
Corner HI WOOD C30V1 POLYSTYRENE 30mm x 30mm x 2.0m. Painting on order
Plinth MDF Luka Pl 100-10MDF.2400.Point line 24016. Painting on order
Molding NMC IL12 Wallstyle 25*20*2000. Custom painting
Individual painting of skirting board in RAL and NCS colors
If you want to paint the floor skirting board, ceiling skirting board, wall panel or outer corner in RAL or NCS color, we can do it for you!
Paint types for painting MDF, polystyrene and PVC foam baseboards
How to paint the baseboard? What kind of paint is needed for the skirting board? Let’s take a closer look at how to properly paint the baseboard!
MDF skirting boards Magic Wand
In this article you will find out what colors of skirting boards are the most popular and which colors are recommended by experienced designers
Recommendations for working with parquet varnish
The parquet floor must be well prepared before varnishing:
1. 1. The key to a good result is high-quality sanding, the errors of which cannot be hidden by any varnish. After scraping, the floor should be visually and to the touch smooth, stripes, fractions, pits, circles from the angle grinder. When such defects appear, it is necessary to re-sand without violating the technology. The surface should not be wet, greasy or other stains.
1.2. To obtain a high-quality coating, you can walk with sandpaper
1.3. Before coating, the surface must be dedusted, it may be necessary to walk on the surface with a damp cloth. It is important to note that it is often useful to dedust or wet clean before each coating. This becomes especially relevant when, for example, during the period of repair work, even in neighboring rooms, dust is able to imperceptibly accumulate on horizontal surfaces.
1.4. Primer. If we are talking about covering a new parquet / floor – fresh wood (without impregnation and previous coatings), then 1 layer of varnish can act as a primer. If the parquet/floor has previously been coated or impregnated with different materials, it may be necessary to select a specific primer.
1.4.1. Priming occurs in one direction, for example, from the window to the exit
1.4.2. Stretching of layers occurs in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the previous layer (crosswise)
2. The components of Polilak-Prom are mixed according to the instructions for use: Shake the components thoroughly before mixing. Mix in the proportion of 9 weight parts of Component A and 1 weight part of Component B. Stir the resulting mixture of components by shaking for 1-2 minutes. Then let the mixed components stand for 15 minutes.
When working with varnish, it is recommended to use personal protective equipment (gloves, goggles and a mask). In case of contact with mucous membranes, rinse with water. Use only in a well ventilated area.
4. Lacquer application technique
We recommend using brushes or a velor roller to apply the lacquer.
Apply 1 coat in one direction, eg from window to exit. Stretching of subsequent layers occurs in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the previous layer (crosswise). Between layers, after drying (2-4 hours after application), it is necessary to grind the coating using an abrasive (150), then remove the dust. The coating is ready for the next layer.
Optimum number of layers – 3.
5. Drying of the first layer
%. Depending on working conditions, varnish consumption, drying of the varnish layer occurs within 2-4 hours. For fidelity, you can run your hand over the treated area – the coating should not be sticky to the touch.
6. Coating quality control (what you need to pay attention to, how to check the quality of the coating) you can check the quality of the coating visually – the floor must have a uniform color, without visible inclusions, pores, such defects as potholes, scratches, stains. After drying, the coating should feel smooth to the touch.
7. Tips for preventing problems when applying parquet varnish
7.1. Roughness after applying a layer of varnish
After the first coat of varnish has dried, you can feel the appearance of roughness on the surface. This happens after the first layer has dried, even after subsequent layers have dried, this is normal. The fact is that during the coating process, the varnish is absorbed into the wood, squeezing out the villi, which make the parquet ″rough″. This is because wood has a porous structure and varnishing makes adjustments to this structure, filling the pores and making the surface more monolithic.
It is necessary to distinguish between such concepts as “roughness of the coating” and “tactile feeling of the structure of the tree.” The rough floor feels like fine sandpaper, while the manifestation of the noble structure of the wood, where the alternation of dark and light, slightly recessed and protruding structures creates a pleasant sensation when touched.
A properly applied quality coating will allow you to preserve the structure of the wood and emphasize its advantages, while the “roughness of the coating” is a clear varnishing mistake.
Intermediate sanding of the coating will help to cope with this problem – sand the completely dry coating with sandpaper (150) along the wood fibers and cover the surface with an additional layer.
7.2. Obvious traces of sanding machines are visible after applying varnish.
Coating defects such as stripes, shot, pits, circles from an angle grinder (angle grinder) appear as a result of a violation of the sanding technology. This can be corrected only through a new scraping of the coating.
7.3. After the finish coat of varnish, especially glossy, has dried, scratches and scratches become clearly visible.
Such defects can be the result of poor-quality intermediate grinding, as well as its complete absence, it should be borne in mind that the varnish will not hide the risks from poor-quality grinding. Please note that interlayer grinding should be carried out only on a dried coating.
Stripes on parquet, traces of old varnish or putty – all these are flaws of poor-quality polishing. You won’t be able to fix it easily, you will have to loop again.
7.4. Footprints left from the shoes.
If such a problem occurs, the first thing to do is to conclude that it is not worth walking on a fresh surface, or at least not in shoes. Then it is necessary to sand the surface and apply a new layer of varnish.
7.5. Brush fluff, dust, hair and other inclusions.
If the unevenness is created by debris on the surface, then most likely the preliminary cleaning of the room was carried out poorly.
It often happens that there is a strong draft in the working area, and as a result, debris and dust, for example from neighboring rooms or from the street, easily settles on the varnish coating.
There are cases when low-quality, cheap brushes or rollers are used for varnishing, which are destroyed during the varnishing process, leaving pile in the coating.
In the case of long-mixed material (long-aged, already mixed varnish), improper or too long storage may cause flakes, solids and pellets to form. Such inclusions are removed by ordinary filtering, for example through gauze.
In most cases, such defects in the coating are sanded and cleaned with sandpaper, after which an additional layer is applied.
7.6. The coating is strongly ″bubbly″.
There are several reasons for this problem:
- a very thick layer of varnish: a film forms on its surface before the air bubbles formed during the curing process rise to the surface, as a result of which the bubbles remain inside the coating.
- the varnish was shaken well before application, but not allowed to settle sufficiently;
- the bottom layer is not dry enough, and during application there is an interaction reaction between the layers: the first wet layer foams, it is recommended to immediately stop the application.
7. 7. After the varnish dried, the floor acquired an uneven color, became spotty.
The defect became visible after the first coat of varnish was applied. Reason: streaks, wood impregnation is uneven. In some cases, repeated application helps to even out the color, but this is far from always effective.
7.8. The spots appeared after applying the varnish over the primer layer.
Possible causes: the floor was covered with a very thin layer and did not completely cover the wood or the ground layer was damaged during the interlayer grinding.
7.9. A cloudy film forms on the coated floor
This is possible if the varnish is torn off, as a result of which it begins to peel off. The cause of such a problem may be:
- incorrectly selected varnish, not suitable for working with a particular type of wood;
- previous specific impregnation of old parquet.
7.10. Whitish spots appeared, similar to salt protrusions.
This defect often appears on beech and exotic woods when coated with solvent based primers/varnishes. This is due to the fact that solvents “suck out” the salts, dyes and oils from the wood. To avoid this, it is necessary to correctly approach the choice of varnish and primer.
Scratch the coating, if the varnish is like plasticine in consistency, then for some reason the coating did not crystallize, and the varnish remained white and cloudy. This happens in pits, on knots, on oily rocks. White spots may appear if there are traces of putty, PVA and other chemicals on the floor. All these reasons cause whitishness when painting a tree.
7.11. The floor is uneven.
This occurs as a result of the uneven coating of the wood, where the varnish has absorbed less, the shine is stronger. This defect can be corrected by applying another layer of coating.
7.12. After varnishing, traces from a roller or brush, joints and transition points are visible.
Such shortcomings indicate that the application was made in violation of the technology: too thin a layer, strong draft, high temperature in the room. All these reasons do not allow the composition to spread correctly and evenly until completely dry.
7.13. The lacquer does not dry.
- Incorrect mixing ratio of the varnish components
- The varnishing technology is violated: insufficient exposure between layers, excessive application thickness, varnishing on an incompatible material (for example, wood has been impregnated with oil).
- Lacquer is not suitable for working with a specific type of wood: beech and mahogany are especially capricious in such matters, however, in the practice of applying Polilak, there have not yet been cases of incompatibility with any type of wood.
- Unsuitable painting conditions – temperature too low, very damp or the room is completely sealed.
7. 14. Peeling of the coating or part of it, the varnish “comes off” with a film, the varnish on the wood is swollen.
The varnish layer lags behind the parquet due to the lack of adhesion of the coating layers between themselves and the wood, which indicates a violation of the technological process, as a result, “peeling”, matte spots. The varnish coating is collected in drops or puddles – this is the rejection of one layer from another. Surface tension pulls the coating together in the absence of adhesion between the layers.
Possible causes of such problems:
- different incompatible brands of varnish were used for coating or the old coating was not completely removed;
- the presence of any chemicals on the parquet, so water-based varnishes often move away from the floor next to the baseboard, due to interaction with silicone sealant.
- the drying time of the previous layer is not maintained, especially if it is stains or primers.
7. 15. Lacquer curls when applied to stain or tint.
This can happen either due to material incompatibility, or if the drying time of the previous layer has not been met.
7.16. The surface resembles snake skin, the so-called “shagreen”.
Shagreen – deformation of the top layer of the coating. There can be many reasons for its occurrence:
- too thick or too thin varnish layer,
- the interval between layers is not maintained,
- floor too cold,
- strong draft,
- excessively high room temperature.
- varnish dries unevenly: the upper part dries up, and the lower part is still damp, as a result, the upper part shrinks and warps.
There is only one way out in such a situation – you need to scrape the floor and varnish it again.
7.17. Deformation of parquet boards, edges of parquet slabs.
After varnishing, deformations appeared on the parquet, the boat, the parquet cracked or warped as a result of water hammer. The application of varnish in large quantities in one day causes the expansion of the upper layer of the parquet, which provokes bending of the parquet, cracks. Wood absorbs liquids well and changes its volume – the more water, the sharper the process. The more hygroscopic wood, such as beech, the more it reacts to the penetration of liquids.
7.18. After applying the first coat, the entire floor is in unevenly shiny spots.
This is normal, the varnish or primer is absorbed unevenly, which manifests itself in varying degrees of gloss. The second coat of primer or varnish will even out the shine, but before that, let the first coat dry well.
7.19. The lacquer remained white in the cracks.
Water-based lacquer is initially white and becomes transparent only after drying. But thick layers, especially sags and puddles, can remain white. Accordingly, if the cracks are deep, then the varnish that has flowed into them may remain white. It is also possible for the varnish to react with chemicals that have accumulated in the cracks over the years of operation, or with old glue.
7.20. Why matte varnish shines or parquet shines unevenly.
The matt effect of the varnish is achieved by adding matting additives to the product composition, the more of them, the less shiny the surface. Such additives tend to precipitate out. Mix the varnish well before starting work, and if they drag on, during. If you forgot and got an uneven sheen, then perform interlayer sanding and cover the floor again.
7.21. The parquet has become very dark or remains light after varnishing.
Varnishes and oils contain solvents, which, when interacting with wood, react chemically with various substances contained in it.
7.22. Lacquer coating cracks when it cannot withstand expansion loads.
Good varnishes remain elastic for many years and resist stretching well. Old varnishes can completely lose their elasticity, and the expanding parquet simply breaks the varnish. Fresh varnishes tend to burst when you apply many layers in one day.