Painted decking: From Preparation To Restoration (+DIY Tips)

From Preparation To Restoration (+DIY Tips)


Q. First-time deck painter here. I have prepared my deck as well as possible, scraping away old paint and sanding the wood. I am just wondering what is the best and most efficient way to tackle the job. Is it better to go with a brush, a roller, or another option that I haven’t considered? Is there anything else I should keep in mind?

A. It sounds as if you’ve given due attention to this important early yet critical phase; others would be wise to follow your example. Ahead, learn why prep is so important before painting a deck and find out how to select the right paint for the job.

Deck painting is a classic summertime project, but according to Jolene Jantz, Paint Advisor for Jantz Lumber and Do-It Center in McPherson Kansas, the key to a successful deck-painting project lies in the surface preparation. “All loose paint must be removed, and the surface must be clean and dry,” Jantz said. Once existing paint has been scraped away, and rough patches have been sanded smooth, the deck must be thoroughly cleaned. Only then is it ready to accept paint.

Painting a Deck: How to Prep for and Apply Paint

STEP 1: Wash Down the Deck


Even if it’s a new deck, it has to be clean before applying paint or stain. Deck-cleaning products are available that can be sprayed on using a garden hose dispenser and then brushed in with a utility broom or similar brush and then rinsed off. Consider the following when washing the deck.

  • Deck cleaners: A general, all-purpose deck cleaning solution is suitable for washing the deck, and it will remove grime, dirt, and debris. For those who intend to apply a stain rather than a paint, Jantz recommends checking to see if the stain manufacturer recommends a specific deck cleaner.
  • Brighteners: For non-painted wood decking that’s grayed unevenly over time, a cleaner that brightens the wood grain will help remove stains and discrepancies that might otherwise show through a new application of stain. These brighteners contain a wood-bleaching product to lighten stains and dark splotches.
  • Mold and mildew: If any mold or mildew is present on the existing deck, use a cleaner with a mildewcide before painting or staining.
  • Skip the power washer: Power washers are great for blasting away dirt and debris, but the powerful jet of water from a high-pressure washer can dig chunks of wood out of decking. After applying the deck-cleaning solution, scrubb with a stiff nylon-bristle brush (if needed). Use a garden hose with a jet nozzle to rinse away the cleaning solution, and then allow the deck to dry completely.

STEP 2: Scrape and Sand the Deck

All loose and peeling paint must be removed before repainting a deck. For the best results, rough surfaces should also be sanded smooth.

  • Start with a wire brush: Use light sweeping strokes over the painted decking to dislodge loose paint. A wire brush makes quick work of getting rid of the loosest paint chips, although it likely won’t get all of them.
  • Follow up with a scraper: Paint scrapers come in two common types, flat scrapers and curved scrapers. Flat scrapers resemble putty knives, and they work by positioning the blade at a low angle along the decking and giving it light pushes, so the blade slips beneath loose paint chips to remove them. This is a tried-and-true paint scraping method, but care must be taken not to gouge the wood with the blade. The blade on a curved scraper features a gentle arc at the end, and it works by pulling rather than pushing.
  • Don’t skip the sanding: Scraping rarely removes all the paint from the existing deck, and it’s not meant to. After scraping away loose paint, it’s likely the wood will still have large areas of stuck-on paint, and that’s okay because if it’s not peeling, the new paint will still adhere. Sanding is still necessary to smooth out the edges between stuck-on paint and bare wood. A power sander hastens the sanding process, but try using a sanding sponge rather than regular sandpaper if one isn’t available. Before sanding, use a hammer and nailset to countersink any nails that might be sticking up.


STEP 3: Apply Paint or Other Finish to the Deck

Before opening the can of paint or stain, apply painter’s tape to adjacent parts of a house or garage. After all the rest of the prep work, this is a minimal step. The tools chosen to apply the new finish deserve consideration as well.

  • Roller: The best tool for applying new paint is a paint roller. A roller speeds the painting process, and it delivers a uniform coat of paint. The roller handle connects to an extension pole, making it easy to paint while standing up.
  • Stain pads: Designed to make quick work of applying stain to non-painted wood decking, stain pads feature absorbent material, such as foam, and they also come with the ability to attach an extension pole.
  • Brushes: Keep some brushes on hand for painting in restricted spots, such as when it’s time to paint deck railing or in other spots where a roller won’t fit.
  • Don’t forget about the underside of the deck. If it’s reachable, paint or seal all deck boards’ sides to protect the decking from moisture. This is more critical in regions with heavy rains and high humidity than in arid regions. If all sides of the boards are not sealed, moisture may get into the wood and reduce the new paint’s longevity.


Picking a Deck Paint

A common mistake DIYers make when choosing deck paint is to buy exterior paint without first making sure it should be used on a deck floor. “The paint must be suitable for a horizontal surface,” Jantz said. Whereas all exterior paints will resist water damage to an extent, regular house paints are made to cover vertical surfaces, such as siding, where rain runs down and doesn’t sit on the painted surface. On the other hand, decking may retain small puddles of water after a rain. The paint for a deck or patio should be labeled as “floor paint” or “deck paint,” or the description should say that it can be used on horizontal surfaces.

Stain vs. Paint

To an extent, choosing between paint and stain is a matter of taste, but paint is thicker and more durable, while stain must be reapplied more frequently. As a general rule of thumb, deck stain is designed for use on bare or non-painted wood surfaces because although it imparts some color, it also allows the wood grain to show through. Deck stains come in various opacities; some offer just a hint of color, while others are semi-transparent or nearly opaque. The more pigments a stain contains, the more color it will impart. Most deck stains also include a sealer product that helps protect the wood from the elements. Choosing between paint or stain requires understanding the differences between the two products.

Paint does a better job of disguising imperfections, and it completely covers the wood grain. This makes paint well-suited for decks where a few boards have been replaced, and there’s an obvious difference between the new boards and the old boards. A coat of paint will hide the differences and give the deck a uniform, updated look.

That said, if the deck runs close to the ground or is located in a humid spot with poor air circulation, particularly if it’s had some problems with mold or mildew, then go for stain. While paint completely coats the wood, a stain penetrates the wood grain, but it does not form a solid coating on top as paint does. When moisture is a consistent factor, paint has a greater tendency to blister and peel. A penetrating stain and sealer combination will soak into the wood and protect from within.


Primer Particulars for Deck Painting

Whether painting a new deck or updating an older painted deck, it’s usually—but not always—a good idea to apply primer to the wood before rolling on the paint. Jantz explains what to consider when choosing a primer.

  • The existing type of deck paint: Before painting over a previously painted deck, find out whether the existing paint is oil-based or water-based. The general rule is to apply the same type of paint that’s already on the deck. For example, if the old paint is oil-based, use oil-based paint. If the old paint is water-based, use water-based paint. According to Jantz, it is possible to go over oil-based paint with water-based paint as long as a primer designed to convert from oil- to water-based paint is applied first.
  • Paint/Primer combos: Some types of exterior floor and deck paints are designed to both prime the existing surface and add a new coat of color—all in one. When painting a deck with a combo product, there’s no need to apply a separate primer.

Correct and Cover

If the deck has splintered wood and gaps between the boards—if, in short, it’s seen better days—then you may want to consider a new crop of outdoor finishes that not only add color and protection but also correct minor flaws. Offered by a handful of manufacturers, these thick stains have a consistency reminiscent of cake frosting.

For instance, Behr makes a product called DeckOver, which the company claims can fill cracks up to 1/4-inch wide. This type of filler/paint product will smooth out the surface of decking that’s showing its age via gouges in the wood, nail holes, large pores, or obvious expansion cracks. If your deck is truly in rough shape and you have little time to put toward revitalizing it, DeckOver and similar products are probably worth the money. On the other hand, if your deck is in good condition, regular paint or stain would do just fine.

Find Out How Much Paint to Buy

When it comes to buying paint, it’s best to err on the side of caution and get more rather than not enough. Leftover paint can be used later for touchups if necessary. Still, you don’t want to end up with large cans that never get opened. Follow these steps to get an idea of how much you need.

  1. Measure the deck’s length and width and multiply the two numbers to determine the square foot of the surface. For example, a 10-foot by 20-foot deck has 200 square feet of surface. Most will also want to paint deck steps (if applicable), so measure those and add to the total.
  2. Double the total if you plan to apply two coats of paint. For the above example, that would be 400 square feet.
  3. Check the paint can to find estimated coverage and divide your number by this number. Many paints cover around 350 square feet. Still using the above example, divide 400 by 350 to determine it would take approximately 1.14 gallons to coat the surface of the deck twice. A lot of exterior paint sells by the gallon, so the user would want to pick up 2 gallons of paint to be on the safe side.
  4. Don’t forget the primer. If the paint isn’t a paint/primer combo product, use the same method to figure a single coat of a separate primer.


Painting a Treated Deck

High-end decks made from redwood, teak, or cedar naturally resist water damage, but they too can benefit from the application of a clear sealer that penetrates the wood grain and slows down the weathering process.

Most decks, however, are built from treated—yellow pine that’s been soaked in chemicals to keep it from rotting. Jantz explains that treated decks need adequate time for the chemicals to evaporate from the wood before adding paint or sealant. If a deck is painted before the chemicals have completely evaporated, the paint is more likely to peel off. Jantz recommends waiting six months after the deck is constructed to give it ample time for the chemicals to evaporate before painting or sealing.

FAQ About How to Paint a Deck


Spending time on a deck is a favorite warm-weather activity for many, so it makes sense to protect the deck to maintain its beauty and extend its useful life. For those thinking about painting or sealing the backyard deck, a few questions are to be expected.

How do you prepare a deck for painting?

Clean the deck thoroughly, remove all loose paint, and then sand the deck and let it dry completely.

Can you paint over old deck paint?

Absolutely! Just make sure to prep the deck as detailed above and choose a deck paint that is compatible with the current paint.

What kind of paint do you use on a wood deck?

Either oil-based or water-based exterior deck paints are suitable, but they should be designed for use on horizontal surfaces—not just exterior paint designed for use on a house or a fence.

Is it better to paint or stain a deck?

If the deck was previously painted, it’s best to paint it again. If the wood is bare, either paint or stain is acceptable—it’s mostly a matter of personal preference.

Final Thoughts

A new coat of paint or stain will update a deck and give it new life and appeal, but before grabbing a roller, it’s crucial to correctly prep the deck. The actual process of rolling or brushing on paint or stain is relatively quick and straightforward compared to the time it takes to prep a deck—especially if it’s an older deck with loose paint or mold problems.

How to Paint a Deck

How to Paint a Deck

  1. Angi
  2. Solution Center
  3. Home Exteriors

Updated May 31, 2023

Photo: ChristopherBernard / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

Bragging rights are all yours when you restore your old deck

Get quotes from up to 3 pros!

Enter a zip below and get matched to top-rated pros near you.

Whether your old deck has seen better days or your new deck needs a touchup, one thing’s for sure—a well-painted deck is an absolute must if you want your outdoor space to last. This project requires a bit of physical labor, but if you’re up for the challenge, follow these steps to paint your deck.

Start With Prepping Your Deck

Photo: Liudmila Chernetska / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

Preparing to paint your deck can feel even more labor-intensive than actually painting your deck. Here’s how you can get ready for the big day.

New Projects vs. Repainting a Deck

Painting a new deck is more straightforward than repainting a deck. Learning how to repaint a deck starts with knowing the type of paint that is currently on it. If the current paint is oil-based, you’ll want to choose an oil-based paint to do your repainting. If it’s an acrylic-based paint, use an acrylic-based paint to repaint your deck.

Choosing a Primer

You can purchase primer separately or buy an exterior deck paint that primes and paints your deck in a single coat, saving you time. If you decide to purchase a separate primer to convert your deck from one paint base to another, read the label to ensure that you choose the right primer for your deck material and paint choice.

Selecting the Best Deck Paint 

There are three types of paint you can use for decks: oil-based deck paint, water-based acrylic deck paint, and epoxy resin. Each one comes with its pros and cons.

Calculating How Much Paint You Need

You’ve picked the perfect paint, and now you’ll want to ensure you have the right number of paint cans. Here’s how to calculate the right amount of paint:

  1. Measure your deck’s total square footage by multiplying the length by the width. 

  2. Most decks require two coats of paint, so multiply the surface area by two. 

  3. Search the label on the paint can for the estimated square feet of coverage. 

  4. Divide the doubled square footage by this number. 

  5. Repeat this process if you’re using a separate primer to determine how much you need. 

Check the Weather Forecast 

Before preparing your deck and the space around it for painting, ensure the weather is suitable for the project. You don’t want to get started only for rain to interfere with your hard work! Check the forecast over the next three to five days, as you’ll need to allocate time for cleaning, sanding, priming, painting, and allowing the deck to dry.

Cover the Areas Surrounding the Deck

The day has finally arrived, but before you get started, you’ll need to remove and cover all surrounding areas around the deck to protect your garden and other valuables from cleaning solutions and paint. Use plastic sheets to cover plants, furniture, windows, and anything else that could get splashed, and secure the sheets with painter’s tape.

How to Paint a Deck

Photo: J.Pliacushok / Adobe Stock

Painting a deck requires a multifaceted approach—as much as you may want to get your hands dirty, you can’t just go in and start painting. You need to first wash the deck, remove old paint if there is any, sand the deck, repair and replace old boards, and then apply the paint. Follow these steps to paint your deck like a professional.

Wash the Deck

Whether you’re repainting or painting a new deck, the first thing you’ll want to do is clean the deck. Many products can clean a deck, so check out these steps to comprehensively clean your deck.

All-Purpose Deck Cleaner

The first step for cleaning your deck is to use an all-purpose deck cleaner. Here’s what you’ll need to do:

  1. Pre-rinse the deck with a garden hose.

  2. Mix the cleaning solution in a bucket according to the package directions.

  3. Use a stiff bristle brush or push broom to scrub the deck.

  4. Dip your brush in the solution as you go.

  5. Rinse the deck off with a hose sprayer. 

  6. Let it dry.

Power Washer

You can use a power washer if your deck is made of hardwood and you have experience using one. But, if your deck is made of softwood—or you don’t have experience with power washers—you’ll want to avoid using one. These washers are powerful and can damage your deck. If you do choose to use one, here’s how to do it safely:

  1. Clear your deck of furniture and other items.

  2. Sweep the deck to remove loose leaves and dirt.

  3. Attach a wide nozzle to the power washer.

  4. With 6–8 inches between the nozzle and the deck, spray your power washer on the deck.

  5. Move in wide rows, up and down the deck.

  6. If stains remain on your deck, add an all-purpose cleaner to the deck following package directions.

  7. You may have to repeat this process several times until you remove all dirt.

Mold and Mildew Remover

For mold or mildew, you’ll need to follow up with a mold-killing treatment. Vinegar is a natural mold killer that works well to remove mold, but if you have black mold or an extreme case, you may need to call in a pro or use a more powerful chemical like oxygen bleach. Important note: NEVER mix oxygen bleach and vinegar together, as they can create harmful fumes. 

Here’s how to rid your deck of mold.

  1. Clean your deck with an all-purpose cleaner first using the steps above and let it dry.

  2. Put on protective goggles and gloves.

  3. If using vinegar, mix equal parts vinegar to warm water. Fox oxygen bleach and other treatments, follow the label’s instructions. Remember again not to mix vinegar with oxygen bleach

  4. Apply the solution to the mold or mildew on your deck.

  5. Wait around an hour for the solution to work its magic.

  6. Use a soft-bristled brush to scrub away at the spots.

  7. Wipe clean with a dry rag.

  8. Repeat this process for stubborn spots. 

Wood Brightener

Using a wood brightener can help create an even color by removing unsightly stains. This might not be a problem for painted decks, but if you decide to stain your deck—or you use a light-colored paint—you may want to use a brightener for a more consistent coating. 

If you use a wood brightener, you should do so after you’ve cleaned your deck to rid the surface of remaining dark spots and stains. Follow these steps to freshen up your redwood or cedar deck especially: 

  1. Put on chemical-resistant gloves and protective eyewear.

  2. Apply the brightener to dark spots, stains, or the entire surface of your deck.

  3. Leave the solution on your deck for 15 minutes.

  4. Rinse with a hose sprayer.

  5. Let it dry for two days minimum before moving on to the next steps.

Remove the Old Paint

If you don’t have paint on your deck, you can skip to the next section. Decks with existing paint should be stripped of the old paint before you apply a new coat. This process takes a few steps to get it right, but failure to remove all of the old paint can make your new coat look bumpy and uneven. It might even chip or blister. 

With this in mind, here’s how to remove old paint from your deck.

Wire Brush

You’ll want to start with a wire brush. This process is the best way to loosen old paint, but it won’t remove all of the finer pieces. 

  1. Start with a dry surface.

  2. With a large sweeping motion, sweep the brush in the same direction the paint is peeling to remove it from the wood.

  3. If the paint is stubborn, add a paint stripper or solvent to the brush or directly to the wood to aid you in this process.

  4. Rinse the wire brush in a bucket of water to remove debris when you’re finished.

Paint Scrapers

After you’ve stripped the larger pieces of paint from the surface of your deck, use a manual paint scraper to get the more intricate and difficult-to-reach spaces. There are several types of scrapers on the market, but the tried and true scraper for removing paint from decks is the flat paint scraper. 

This method may take some getting used to, so follow these steps closely to avoid gouging chunks out of your decking material.

  1. Gently push into the paint and scrape at the flakes.

  2. Continue to push until the paint comes loose. 

  3. If some paint doesn’t come off, you might need to sharpen your tool with a whetstone or switch to a sharper scraper. 

  4. Be careful not to press too hard and gouge the wood surface.

  5. Clean the scraper when complete.

Sand Your Deck

There is one final but important step to complete before your deck is ready for painting: sanding your deck. You won’t want to skip out on this step because your deck needs a nice, smooth surface for your fresh coat of paint. Even a new deck that doesn’t have paint on it needs to be sanded before painting.

Safety first: There are three ways you can sand your deck, but before you begin, put on a respirator, hearing guards, heavy gloves, knee pads, and protective eyewear. 

Random Orbital Sander

Random orbital sanders are the best option for quickly and safely sanding your deck. This option uses sanding discs rather than sandpaper to sand your deck, and the random circular motion provides a better result. Here’s how to use one:

  1. Choose a 5-inch diameter orbital sander with a 60 to 80 grit to start.

  2. Place the sander down before you turn it on.

  3. Then, slowly work your way along the deck.

  4. Don’t press on your sander as you go.

  5. Try to overlap each time you go over a section by 50%.

  6. Increase to a 100-grit disc.

  7. Finish hard-to-reach areas by hand with a sanding block.

Sanding Sponge

You can also use a sanding sponge to sand your deck. These sanding devices use sheets of sandpaper. This option takes longer and requires more physical labor than an orbital sander. With this in mind, follow these steps to use a sanding sponge:

  1. Start with a large, 80-grit sanding sponge.

  2. Sand with the grain of your boards.

  3. Press evenly onto the boards.

  4. Repeat this process with a 100-grit sanding sponge.

Floor Sander

The fastest way to sand a deck is to use a floor sander, but this might not be the best option if your deck isn’t perfectly level. You can also damage your deck if you use a floor sander, which is heavier than the other options, so be sure you’re confident you can do so safely. If your deck is level and you decide to use this method, follow these steps:

  1. Start with 80-grit sandpaper.  

  2. Switch to finer sandpaper until you’ve smoothed it down with 100-grit sandpaper.

  3. Touch up hard-to-reach spaces with a sanding sponge.

Repair the Deck

With a freshly smoothed deck, now is your chance to touch up or remove any old boards that need a little TLC. Take a close look at your deck for signs of loose, cracked, or chipped boards and nails that jut out before following these methods for restoring your deck.

Repair Boards
  1. Remove bent nails with a pry bar.

  2. If possible, level protruding nails with a hammer. Otherwise, remove them with the claw end of a hammer.

  3. Hold the loose board in place. You might want a helper to hold the board for you to free up your hands.

  4. Use a hammer to nail new nails into the boards.

  5. Fill minor cracks and chips with exterior wood putty.

Replace Damaged Boards
  1. Put on proper eye protection.

  2. Use a jigsaw to cut boards that are too damaged for repairs out of your deck.

  3. Plan to remove boards that take up two joint spaces minimum.

  4. With a screwdriver or pry bar, remove any screws and nails holding the damaged board in place.

  5. Treat joists that show signs of rot.

  6. Place flashing on top of rotting joists.

  7. Install support cleats to the joists to support the new board.

  8. Measure and cut a new board.

  9. Sand the new board.

  10. Install the board by screwing them into place with a drill or using a hammer and nails.

Wash the Deck (Again)

After sanding, you must remove the debris and sawdust before you can start painting your deck. Follow the steps you took to wash your deck the first time around to clean up the site.

Apply Paint to the Deck

The best way to paint a deck is with a long paint roller, but you may need to use a brush to apply the paint in challenging areas or on the railing of your deck. 

  1. Place painter’s tape on the edges of the deck that meet other surfaces of your property.

  2. Ensure all sidings and plants are securely covered with plastic sheets.

  3. Apply one coat of paint using the paint roller, working with the grain of the boards.

  4. Go in with the paintbrush for tough-to-reach areas, moving with back-and-forth motions.

  5. Work on small sections at a time.

  6. Don’t forget to paint the posts, railings, and bottom of the deck.

  7. Allow each coat of paint to dry overnight.

  8. Repeat this process one or two more times.

How to Take Care of a Painted Deck

After all of that hard work, it’s important to properly maintain your deck to avoid having to repeat the process prematurely. Here are some tips for how to maintain a wooden deck:

  • Inspect your deck annually for loose boards or protruding nails.

  • Replace boards that are beyond repair.

  • Regularly clean your deck—especially in the fall.

  • Repaint decking surfaces as needed.

  • Mop your deck once yearly. 

Why Should I Paint My Deck?

Photo: Feverpitched / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

There are several reasons why it’s a good idea to paint a deck:

  • It adds charm to your home.

  • Paint hides unsightly stains and old age from a deck that’s seen better years.

  • It’s easier to maintain compared to a stained deck.

  • Paint comes in a variety of colors.

  • It protects your deck from rot, warpage, sun damage, mold, and pests.

Painting vs. Staining a Deck

Finishing a deck requires some sort of protection, be it paint or stain. Some homeowners prefer the appearance of a stain, which shows the wood grain underneath. Paint hides the natural color of your deck, but it also lasts longer. At the same time, paint is susceptible to blistering and cracking under humid conditions.

How Much Does It Cost to Paint a Deck?

The cost to paint a deck ranges from $600 to $1,350 to refinish and paint a standard 200-square-foot deck. Smaller decks could cost as little as $300, while larger decks could cost upwards of $2,100.

DIY vs. Hire a Pro

Painting a deck on your own is a big undertaking. This process can be very rewarding for an avid DIYer, but for homeowners who simply want a beautiful deck without the hassle, consider hiring a deck refinishing company near you to do the job.

A pro can clean and prepare your deck without accidentally gouging the surface, advise you on the best paint for your regional climate, and apply the paint evenly.

Frequently Asked Questions

You’ll need to prime decking materials to protect them from the great outdoors and high foot traffic. However, you can purchase a paint that has primer in it to avoid having to prime your deck first.

Late spring is the best time of the year to paint a deck. The sun won’t be too harsh and dry the paint prematurely, and the weather will remain relatively cool. Just be sure to avoid painting during spring if your area is prone to rain at that time of the year. If that’s the case, fall might be a better option.

You can use anywhere from one to three coats of paint. More coats generally mean a more durable surface that’s also easier to maintain. Applying three coats gives your deck the most vibrant colors but does require more upfront costs to accommodate the extra layers.

Need professional help with your project?

Get quotes from top-rated pros.

Learn more about our contributor

Allie is an Austin-based content writer specializing in home improvement, renewable energy, and deregulated energy markets.

Recommended Articles

  • Can You Use Exterior Paint Inside? Yes, But Here’s Why You Shouldn’t

    By Sharon Brandwein • March 16, 2022

  • When Is the Best Time to Paint the Exterior of a House?

    By Allie Ogletree • June 6, 2023

  • Best Paint Types and Colors for a Pool Deck

    By Staci Parks • June 20, 2023

Welded grating, Prices | Aksatek

Carrier strip thickness range, mm 2 to 8
Carrier bar height range, mm 20 – 170
Pitch of carrier and connecting strips mm is a multiple of 11

Welded deck standard

Parameter Size, mm
length (maximum) 6100
standard width 1000
standard cell size 34×38, 34×50, 34×76
tie bar diameter 5. 0

Types of welded flooring

Aksatek produces bare and hot zinc coated welded gratings. Galvanized welded grating has a higher cost per square meter, but at the same time it has increased resistance to corrosion and can be used in areas with special climatic and production conditions, for example, with excessive humidity.

Depending on the type of strip, the following can be distinguished:

  • Flooring with smooth bearing strips and tie rods;
  • Floor with anti-slip teeth.

Anti-skid tines are an indispensable addition when using the material in specific climatic zones where there is a risk of icing. In addition, this makes it possible to use the flooring on production sites, where, for example, there is a risk of spilling oils.

Aksatek perforated welded flooring, can be of three types, depending on its anti-slip characteristics:

  • SP/S4
    The most common type, which has a wide scope. It is often used for arranging passages, landings in industrial areas, for the manufacture of ladders, and so on. It has its own colloquial name – “flooring with saw teeth.” The teeth on the surface of the product are located quite often, which allows you to achieve good adhesion to the surface when moving.
  • SP/S5
    Of all the presented types of welded flooring with anti-skid teeth, it ranks first in terms of injury safety. It is widely used in special climatic zones where there is a high probability of icing, as well as the risk of slipping from high humidity, oil, grease, snow, and so on. It is characterized by intermittent teeth and shallow serifs on the bearing strips.
  • SP/S6
    It is used when there is a high risk of slipping in areas that are characterized by prolonged exposure to maximum low temperatures. The carrier bars have deep serifs, and the anti-skid teeth are trapezoid in shape and spaced quite often.

Go to order


Stainless steel grating is a special sheet made of stainless steel with cells. Often it becomes indispensable in cases where the use of conventional materials is impossible or difficult.



Anti-slip metal decking is a surface used as an element of load-bearing structures under conditions of increased load.



Galvanized and painted flooring is produced by AKSATEK as one of the types of industrial floor coverings. Color coating – polymer-powder, the color of the flooring is determined by the customer according to the RAL color catalog.


Get expert advice

Benefits of welded deck

  • Long service life
    Welded grating has good resistance to deformation, even when it comes to heavy loads and heavy weights. The flooring can be used for at least twenty years, and at the same time does not require any costs for repairs and maintenance. And this allows you to avoid unnecessary costs and worries.
  • Anti-slip properties
    Firstly, the corrugated surface itself gives an anti-slip effect. Secondly, there are certain types of flooring with enhanced anti-skid properties due to the presence of special teeth. Welded flooring guarantees the safety of movement, and this is very important for production areas where oils and lubricants are used, as well as in frosty climatic conditions.
  • Adaptability to aggressive conditions and atmospheric influences
    Low temperature has no negative effect on the material. He performed well in temperatures of minus 50 degrees and below. Also, it is not able to destroy aggressive chemicals – gases, acids, and so on.
  • Quick and easy assembly
    Mounting and dismantling of welded flooring is very quick and easy. A wide range of mounting variations is allowed, so that installation work can be carried out without the use of welding and cutting tools. In addition, ready-made structures can be transported, modified and completed depending on your needs.
  • Aesthetic appearance
    Externally, this type of flooring is characterized by conciseness and clarity of lines. It looks restrained, but at the same time quite stylish. It is often used as an element of building facades, as it looks presentable and aesthetically pleasing.
  • Fast production, fast delivery
    At Aksatek, you can order welded flooring of any kind in the required volume. In particular, we work with non-standard sizes according to sketches for customers. Our production facilities allow us to close large volumes of orders in the shortest possible time.

Go to order

The use of metal flooring


Lattice flooring is a versatile building material used to create various structures, including fences.


Shelving units

Grating shelving is an ideal warehouse equipment option for storing various products, materials and other supplies.


Industrial floors

For industrial floors in industrial premises, enterprises, warehouses and other public buildings, the modern market offers a wide variety of types of coatings.


Outdoor covering

Recently, pressed flooring has gained popularity as one of the most interesting design materials for the improvement of streets, landscape gardening areas and city squares.


Get expert advice

Helpful information

Welded grating – Price

If you want to buy a welded grating, you need to decide on the type of product and its parameters. That depends on the price! Parameters and standard characteristics are presented in the tables on our website. Our experts are always ready to acquaint you with the price list and help you make the right choice.

If you want to order the production of flooring according to individual parameters, the cost will be calculated individually. For our company, nothing is impossible – we will fulfill your order in a timely manner, regardless of its complexity. In Samara, it is Aksatek that is ready to offer its customers an affordable price combined with traditionally good quality and a professional approach. Call!

Need help?

I agree to grant the Aksatek company, located at the address: Samara, Litvinova street, 386, the right to process my personal data in accordance with the provisions of Federal Law No. 152-FZ of July 27, 2006 “On Personal Data”. The processing of personal data means any action (operation) or a set of actions (operations) performed with or without the use of automation tools with personal data, including collection, recording, systematization, accumulation, storage, clarification (updating, changing) extraction, use, transfer (including transfer to third parties, not excluding cross-border transfer, if the need for it arose in the course of fulfilling obligations), depersonalization, blocking, deletion, destruction of personal data. I express my consent to receive information about products and services from Aksatek by telephone, SMS, e-mail and other communication channels. This agreement comes into force after signing. Its validity period is unlimited if Aksatek does not have data on its withdrawal by the client.


Purpose: corrugated board (profiled sheet) C21 is used for arranging walls and fences.

Usable (working) width: 1000 mm.

Overall (full) width: 1051 mm.

Used workpiece: galvanized rolled sheet in coils and galvanized rolled sheet with one-sided or double-sided polymer coating according to the RAL catalog.

Profiled sheet (profiled sheet) C21-1000 can be made from a blank with a thickness indicated below in the table of characteristics.

The standard length of the profiled sheet (profiled sheet) S21-1000 is from 2 m to 12 m. By additional agreement, it is possible to produce sheets both less than 2 m long and more than 12 m (up to 17. 5 m).

Profiled sheet (profiled sheet) is manufactured in accordance with Organization Standard STO 57398459-18-2006 (STP/PP/18) of March 28, 2006

Characteristics of profiled sheet C21-1000

Profile type

Material thickness, mm

Sectional area F, cm 2

Weight 1 m length, kg

Reference values ​​per 1 m width

Weight 1 m 2 kg

Workpiece width, mm

Moment of inertia,

Ix cm 4

Modulus, cm 3

Wx1 cm 3


cm 3

С21-1000-0. 4





























5. 08