Overboarding a ceiling: How to over board a ceiling
Overboarding ceiling, that isn’t going well need advice
kevinsmbuk
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#1
Currently overboarding a ceiling for the first time and it’s bloody hard. Had quite a few issues I’ve come up against, broken a couple of boards too and damaged others. Is it as bad as I think or should I jack it in and get someone in to do it?
Main issues are broken corners of the board in a couple places and some gaps in places too. I was thinking of removed paper and broken plasterboard in areas that need it and just bond those areas in before skimming over. Few pics so you know what I mean.
kevinsmbuk
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#2
plastic_peanut
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#3
Not criticising but how have you managed to make such a hash of it?
Did you not have a helper to support the boards? Something I am looking to do so keen to understand the pitfalls
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#4
The bulges in your last pic are where the board is too tight against the wall.
If you’re doing it on your own, get a board mate tool, little red plastic thing that screws into the board and supports then next board. makes it massively easier and wouldn’t be without it now. Generally the bigger gaps can be filled before skimming so it’s not a total disaster.
kevinsmbuk
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#5
plastic_peanut said:
Not criticising but how have you managed to make such a hash of it?
Did you not have a helper to support the boards? Something I am looking to do so keen to understand the pitfalls
Click to expand.
..
..Boards are very awkward to hold. Done first 3 on my own and had a couple of props to support the board. My wife helped me today on the remaining few. This is one job I would say it’s best to get someone else to do it to be honest.
kevinsmbuk
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#6
23vc said:
The bulges in your last pic are where the board is too tight against the wall.
If you’re doing it on your own, get a board mate tool, little red plastic thing that screws into the board and supports then next board.Click to expand…
makes it massively easier and wouldn’t be without it now. Generally the bigger gaps can be filled before skimming so it’s not a total disaster.It may be that there is a little lip on ceiling from where some coving adhesive remained and I have screwed the other side of it and broke the plasterboard. Should I remove the broken pieces and bond it? Can’t imagine plastering broken pieces is a good idea!?
plastic_peanut
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#7
kevinsmbuk said:
Boards are very awkward to hold.
Click to expand…
Done first 3 on my own and had a couple of props to support the board. My wife helped me today on the remaining few. This is one job I would say it’s best to get someone else to do it to be honest.Thanks mate, sure you will get it sorted out
foxhole
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#8
Looks like it was cut with a blunt spoon.j
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#9
kevinsmbuk said:
Should I remove the broken pieces and bond it?
Click to expand.
..you can do if a bit of gentle pursuasion with a lump hammer/bit of 4×2 doesn’t flatten it out. If the person skimming it knows what they’re doing, it’ll still end up flat as a pancake. Lots of dodgy boarding gets skimmed to perfection. Just try and sort it out for the rest of it, and seriously, get one of those board mates. Game changer. My mrs hasn’t helped me board a ceiling for years now and I’m keen to keep it that way
kevinsmbuk
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#10
23vc said:
you can do if a bit of gentle pursuasion with a lump hammer/bit of 4×2 doesn’t flatten it out.
Click to expand…
If the person skimming it knows what they’re doing, it’ll still end up flat as a pancake. Lots of dodgy boarding gets skimmed to perfection. Just try and sort it out for the rest of it, and seriously, get one of those board mates. Game changer. My mrs hasn’t helped me board a ceiling for years now and I’m keen to keep it that way Cheers mate I appreciate that
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#11
When I boarded my first ceiling it looks similar but is fine now, tips I took from that:
1) Get help with the boards, balancing it on your nose/head/ears just won’t cut it.
2) Use a sharp knife, the blade I was using was blunter than James and butchered the cuts.
fenny666
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#12
Dead old thread but I stumbled across it so someone else might who needs advice so I’ll contribute just on the off chance this may be helpful to someone at some point.
This is a complete hash unfortunately. But completely forgivable to someone who is none the wiser. I’ll try and highlight some common mistakes and in this case obvious mistakes.
This is ‘overboarding’ which basically means applying an additional skin to the existing ‘skin’ as opposed to boarding directly to the joists. This demonstrates the first problem with the OP’s post.
When overboarding you absolutely must locate exactly where the joists are. It’s likely your joists are imperial and they obviously don’t accommodate metric boards. On top of that, even if your joists are metric, there is no guarantee the original fitter was critical with his centres. Ascertain which way your joists go. Always board perpendicular to joists. To find the joists simply screw into the existing ceiling until you hit a joist(Start at the perimeter). Then screw to either side to eventually determine the centre of the joist. Then find the next joist centre. Measure the centres. This which will give you an educated guess as to where the subsequent joists reside. Again you should screw to find the centres of each joist.
Do this to both sides of the room then chalk a line for each joist.
This gives you 2 important and necessary pieces of information. Firstly and most obviously it gives you a visual idea of how to board the ceiling so that board ends can meet on a joist close to 50/50(or enough to ‘get a fix’) which guarantees a flush joint.
Secondly it gives you the joist centres. This is important because the centres govern what board to use. I’ll ignore 9mm boards because they’re sh*t. I’ll focus on 12.5mm and 15mm boards. 12.5mm for fixing at a maximum 450mm centres. Greater than 450mm up to a maximum 600mm centres use 15mm board.
The above is an absolute minimum. There is plasterboard (and accompanying systems) to meet a huge array of specifications. Cosmetic/minimal(as above) to Fire resilience to Sound insulation to Durability. Consider when using plasterboard with a little more expense you can achieve much more than cosmetic value.
Also, when boarding ceilings…get help! The pictures you’ve posted are shockingly rough. It’s fixable… but with a little care it never needed to end up in that state. I’m not having a go at you. It’s so bad it made me laugh. I commend you for having a go. You’ve got to make mistakes to learn from them.
kevinsmbuk
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#13
Thanks for your feedback and comments although a bit OTT! Just to point out I did locate the joists by firstly using a magnet to determine where tack nails were.
I then pushed a flat headed screwdriver through the ceiling to find the joists at either side of the joist and at either end of the room. I used screw at the centre of the joists either end of the joist and used a chalk line to run the centre line of the joist on the ceiling so I would know where to screw my boards.
The issues I have had seem to have occurred because I run the first board against the wall and the wall is out, so therefore the rest of the boards didn’t meet very well. Because of this the screws had to be put close to the edge of the board where they join to get a fixing on the joist. Obviously it should be screwed at around 15mm away from a cut edge. The breaks in the board were caused by my struggling, a couple of points I was struggling to the point where the board dropped from a low height, or the edge was too close to the wall and cracked when it started to get screwed down. One thing I have struggled with properly in DIY. Can’t say I enjoyed it or would want to it again, whereas electrics, plumbing, fencing, patios or pretty much anything else I’m happy to do and enjoy!
fenny666 said:
Dead old thread but I stumbled across it so someone else might who needs advice so I’ll contribute just on the off chance this may be helpful to someone at some point.
This is a complete hash unfortunately. But completely forgivable to someone who is none the wiser. I’ll try and highlight some common mistakes and in this case obvious mistakes.
This is ‘overboarding’ which basically means applying an additional skin to the existing ‘skin’ as opposed to boarding directly to the joists. This demonstrates the first problem with the OP’s post. When overboarding you absolutely must locate exactly where the joists are. It’s likely your joists are imperial and they obviously don’t accommodate metric boards. On top of that, even if your joists are metric, there is no guarantee the original fitter was critical with his centres. Ascertain which way your joists go. Always board perpendicular to joists. To find the joists simply screw into the existing ceiling until you hit a joist(Start at the perimeter). Then screw to either side to eventually determine the centre of the joist. Then find the next joist centre. Measure the centres. This which will give you an educated guess as to where the subsequent joists reside.
Do this to both sides of the room then chalk a line for each joist.
This gives you 2 important and necessary pieces of information. Firstly and most obviously it gives you a visual idea of how to board the ceiling so that board ends can meet on a joist close to 50/50(or enough to ‘get a fix’) which guarantees a flush joint. Secondly it gives you the joist centres. This is important because the centres govern what board to use. I’ll ignore 9mm boards because they’re sh*t. I’ll focus on 12.5mm and 15mm boards. 12.5mm for fixing at a maximum 450mm centres. Greater than 450mm up to a maximum 600mm centres use 15mm board.
The above is an absolute minimum. There is plasterboard (and accompanying systems) to meet a huge array of specifications. Cosmetic/minimal(as above) to Fire resilience to Sound insulation to Durability. Consider when using plasterboard with a little more expense you can achieve much more than cosmetic value.
Also, when boarding ceilings…get help! The pictures you’ve posted are shockingly rough. It’s fixable… but with a little care it never needed to end up in that state. I’m not having a go at you. It’s so bad it made me laugh. I commend you for having a go. You’ve got to make mistakes to learn from them.
Click to expand…
Again you should screw to find the centres of each joist.
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#14
fenny666 said:
Dead old thread but I stumbled across it so someone else might who needs advice so I’ll contribute just on the off chance this may be helpful to someone at some point.
This is a complete hash unfortunately. But completely forgivable to someone who is none the wiser. I’ll try and highlight some common mistakes and in this case obvious mistakes.
This is ‘overboarding’ which basically means applying an additional skin to the existing ‘skin’ as opposed to boarding directly to the joists. This demonstrates the first problem with the OP’s post. When overboarding you absolutely must locate exactly where the joists are. It’s likely your joists are imperial and they obviously don’t accommodate metric boards. On top of that, even if your joists are metric, there is no guarantee the original fitter was critical with his centres. Ascertain which way your joists go. Always board perpendicular to joists. To find the joists simply screw into the existing ceiling until you hit a joist(Start at the perimeter). Then screw to either side to eventually determine the centre of the joist. Then find the next joist centre. Measure the centres. This which will give you an educated guess as to where the subsequent joists reside.
Do this to both sides of the room then chalk a line for each joist.
This gives you 2 important and necessary pieces of information. Firstly and most obviously it gives you a visual idea of how to board the ceiling so that board ends can meet on a joist close to 50/50(or enough to ‘get a fix’) which guarantees a flush joint. Secondly it gives you the joist centres. This is important because the centres govern what board to use. I’ll ignore 9mm boards because they’re sh*t. I’ll focus on 12.5mm and 15mm boards. 12.5mm for fixing at a maximum 450mm centres. Greater than 450mm up to a maximum 600mm centres use 15mm board.
The above is an absolute minimum. There is plasterboard (and accompanying systems) to meet a huge array of specifications. Cosmetic/minimal(as above) to Fire resilience to Sound insulation to Durability. Consider when using plasterboard with a little more expense you can achieve much more than cosmetic value.
Also, when boarding ceilings…get help! The pictures you’ve posted are shockingly rough. It’s fixable… but with a little care it never needed to end up in that state. I’m not having a go at you. It’s so bad it made me laugh. I commend you for having a go. You’ve got to make mistakes to learn from them.
Click to expand…
Again you should screw to find the centres of each joist.
He already knows how to find the joists, he’s already using the right thickness of board. He already knows where he went wrong, his ceiling can still be skimmed and will be fine, and I doubt the parting shot of “it made me laugh” helps him much either.
fenny666
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#15
@23vc Just tried to provide an informative answer based on what was presented mate with the idea being it could be beneficial to someone stumbling upon this thread in the future.
Hence why suggested which boards to use based on determined centres etc. Hence why I described how to find joist centres based on one of the pics that shows an abutment with boards that aren’t fixed flush. Not being an arse mate, just trying to be helpful. It did make me laugh. There’s nowt wrong with that. We all make mistakes. Laugh ’em off and learn.
@kevinsmbuk There’s a good chance following a wall is not going to follow joists. Even with new builds. I’ll often start with a ‘rip’ less than a boards width and work off that or a full board lined up to the joist centres set less than a boards distance away so I can cut back in to the perimeters.
From a DIY perspective this is a 2 man job all day. It looks like you’ve used square edged boards. I’d recommend using tapered edge boards and you can finish it yourself with tape and joint. Plasterers will hate me for saying it but you could finish that ceiling with tape and joint as a diyer better than a time served plasterer.
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dontbelieveawordofit
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is it possible to put a new ceiling over an old one
The previous owner has papered over the bedroom ceiling in an attempt to hide the cracks which now seem to be more visible especially with the light on! (looks like a road map)
is it possible to fix plasterboard over the old ceiling or would the old plaster need to come down first?
must be a lot of dust and assorted cack up there along with the insulation.
.
7
7 Answers from MyBuilder Plasterers
Best Answer
ABM plastering
Diss • Member since 21 Feb 2011 •
154
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Yes you can overboard using 9.5mm plasterboard, the reason I say 9.5mm is that if the ceiling has any undulations 9.5mm will follow these easier than 12.5mm board but this is up to you, also use 50mm driwall screws to fix the new board then scrim the joints and plaster, remember to stagger the joints it is important,,you should be able to find the joists fairly easily, they are normally set at 400mm or 600mm centres depending on the age of the house.
2020-01-06T12:05:02+00:00
Answered 6th Jan 2020
carl melady
Long Eaton • Member since 1 Jun 2008 •
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Sounds like an original lath & plaster ceiling.
…………try to avoid at all costs taking these down as it will be incredibly messy and ultimately you won’t gain anything by doing so.
Just make sure the new boards are fixed into the main ceiling joists with drywall screws,i usually use 60mm screws when over-boarding.
And if possible use 8 by 4’s…………works out cheaper & less joints.
Carl.
2012-01-16T09:50:01+00:00
Answered 16th Jan 2012
B J D BUILDING/ROOFING
Cheltenham • Member since 29 Oct 2008 •
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If its papered, your better of to over board the ceiling, find all the existing ceiling joists and mark them, screw the new boards up.
Make sure the screws are long enough to go through the 2 layers of board and into the joists.
2012-01-13T16:50:01+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2012
Roc builders
Harlow • Member since 25 Aug 2011 •
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Yes it is possible to overboard the existing ceiling.I prefer to remove them (you can limit the mess by cleaning above the ceiling in the loft space) but if this is not possible then overboarding is your best bet.
2012-01-13T16:50:01+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2012
m w building construction and property maintenance
High Wycombe • Member since 28 Sep 2008 •
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It is fine to plasterboard straight over the top of the existing ceiling.
2012-01-13T16:50:01+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2012
Darren Mayes
Milton Keynes • Member since 24 May 2010 •
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Hi
Sounds like a plaster and lath ceiling which most have paper over them to hide the cracks.
Yes you can over board you just need to find the joists.
But if the ceiling is sagging which suggests the plarser has come away from the lath’s id suggest replacing it.
I hope this has helped.
Thanks Darren
2012-01-13T16:50:01+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2012
substructure
Slough • Member since 7 Jun 2008 •
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course you can malcolm,
2012-01-13T17:30:02+00:00
Answered 13th Jan 2012
Jump to the ceiling.
Why dream of Jumping to the ceiling
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Why dream about jumping to the ceiling – This portal will come to the rescue with a full interpretation of the dream about dreaming of jumping to the ceiling in different dream books.
Try to carefully recreate your dream, pay attention to everything that surrounded you, maybe the objects also embody something.
To find another dream, use the search on the site or look in the catalog of dreams, every single interpretation is free, you can still order a personal transcript of your dream.
Dream Interpretation dreamed of jumping to the ceiling dreamed of why in a dream dreamed of jumping to the ceiling? For
to choose the interpretation of a dream, enter a keyword from your dream in the search form or click on the initial
the letter of the image characterizing the dream (if you want to get an online interpretation of dreams by letter for free by
alphabet).
Now you can find out what it means to dream about jumping up to the ceiling by reading below for free
interpretation of dreams from the best online dream books!
By
dream book Children’s dream book
Loss, loss.
By
dream book Chaldean dream book
Jumping over some obstacle in a dream means that you will successfully overcome difficulties in some business. Sometimes it is believed that such a dream is good for those who owe money, but do not want to give it back.
Jumping up to climb up in a dream is a harbinger of an obstacle, to overcome which you will need to be smart or dexterous. Jumping from top to bottom in a dream is a sign of danger in a risky business you have started. If you successfully jumped off and did not get hurt, then the dream portends you that you will successfully get out of a difficult situation and successfully avoid a great danger. See interpretation: parachute.
By
dream book Family dream book
To empty chores.
By
dream book Slavic dream book
By
dream book Ukrainian dream book
By
dream book Dream interpretation Wangi
Jump – torturing yourself – across the ditch – getting rid of debts – over stones – after work – good luck
By
dream book Dream Interpretation Cananita
” By
dream book Esoteric dream book
By
dream book Miller’s dream book
By
dream book Dream Interpretation Maya
Overestimated ambitions, lack of knowledge (if the ceiling is low). A high ceiling shows that the development of relationships, the flow of thoughts has not yet been exhausted. By
dream book Self-taught dream book (Vrublevskaya’s dream book)
By
dream book Dream Interpretation of the Wanderer
If you dreamed that you were painting the ceiling, then in the near future you will meet your true love. To make the feeling mutual, touch each joint with your lips before leaving the house.
If you dreamed that you were walking on the ceiling, in the near future everything in your life would turn upside down.
To make the changes only pleasant, put a shoe in each room (in the corner) for a week.
By
dream book Dream Interpretation Maya
By
dream book Old Russian dream book
By
dream book Noble dream book
How to break through the ceiling in English / Sudo Null IT News
“I’ve been learning English since school, I know the rules of grammar, my vocabulary is far from cat/fish/bird level.
Why do I still hang around for a couple of minutes to make a sentence, and I don’t really understand all these films and books in the original? Where is my fluent English after so many years of studying?”
Often when learning English there is a feeling of “stuck” at the same level, reached some dead-average level, and no further improvement. From this, the motivation to learn further disappears, but even worse, it is not clear what to do with it. During 15 years of teaching English to students from different countries, I observe this typical pattern. Is there life after Intermediate? Is it possible, without living in the environment, and without being a linguistically gifted nymph of Romano-Germanic philology, to break through this ceiling? Let’s figure it out together.
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Slice of knowledge at the initial stage. To figure out how and where to row further, you need to understand what exactly we have at the start. What baggage do you have, what is there in liabilities on different fronts? What are the gaps, blind spots or maybe even black holes.
But also do not forget about the strengths.
But also do not forget about the strengths. It is difficult to notice the changes that have already taken place when you learn a language for a long time. Many mistakenly focus only on what they have not yet achieved and do not know how, and not vice versa. An analytical approach will allow you to see a more vivid picture and, most likely, it will not be as sad as you thought.
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After such an inventory of knowledge and skills at the start, we formulate the TOR. What exactly do we want from this English? Watching movies on Netflix without subtitles and doing an interview in English are completely different tasks that require the use of different techniques. If we want both films and interviews, then we add all the desired items to the TOR. But here we must remember that the wider our wish list, the more resources – time, money, effort – it will take to put it into practice.
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Under the designated goals, we select the appropriate activities, techniques, volume and composition of the material to be covered.
There is no right or wrong here, and very “frivolous” things have the right to exist. Practicing your listening comprehension and expanding your vocabulary through songs is great. Improving spelling through special toys also works. Use the methods and techniques that you enjoy and enjoy.
There is no right or wrong here, and very “frivolous” things have the right to exist. Practicing your listening comprehension and expanding your vocabulary through songs is great. Improving spelling through special toys also works. Use the methods and techniques that you enjoy and enjoy. -
Next, it is worth practicing to use to the maximum those stocks of lexical and grammatical structures that we already have. It always seems to us that our stock is so limited, how scarce it is, especially in comparison with our native language. And I can’t express it, and wave at it. Few, few, few resources! So you need to learn something new, and it’s so difficult to shove this new thing into your head and keep it there. But wait, are we using what we have effectively?
At the average level, the picture often looks something like this, you may not know a particular word, but there will definitely be close cognates or synonyms in the arsenal.
|
Verb |
Noun |
Adjective 9 0013 |
|
to achieve |
??? |
achievable |
|
to develop |
development |
|
|
??? |
clarity |
clear |
|
to use |
??? |
useful |
And if you do not get stuck on the literal translation, but slightly change the construction of the sentence without losing the meaning, then your hands will immediately be untied.
For example, you want to say in English “Our achievements over the past year” , but just the word “achievement” does not come to mind. You can say “What we achieved last year” has the same meaning. The skill of paraphrasing is difficult to overestimate, but not everyone trains it specifically and consistently.
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Closing the gaps in what is already familiar is easier than learning something completely new. At the middle level, there is already something to start from, and it is quite realistic to complete the operational vocabulary to such a picture in the foreseeable future. Here it will be very helpful to understand the meaning and nuances of using suffixes and prefixes.
|
Verb |
Noun |
Adjective 0002 to achieve |
achievement |
developing/developed |
|
|
to clarify |
clarity |
useful |
9033 0
The effective use of existing “old” words does not cancel the replenishment of the vocabulary with new ones. Start simple and learn one new word and its synonym. Further in the sentence, replace the usual words with new ones or their synonyms.
The ability to paraphrase is not only important for mastering a higher level of English, it will also help if you are planning to take an exam such as IELTS or TOEFL.
Hey guys,
I have recently found a good video on how to paraphrase correctly. This might help you develop your vocabulary and the structures you could use either in your speech or writing. Please watch this video whenever you are free.
Hey everyone,
A few days ago, I came across/discovered an interesting video about using synonyms and modified phrases properly. It could help you advance/improve your vocabulary and analyze what structure you can apply both in speaking and writing. Please have a look at/go through this video whenever you have some time.
In this example, not only the verbs, the introduction, but also other words are replaced. This little exercise will take five minutes of your time, but it’s a great practice to practice using synonyms.
It’s not even necessary to write it down every time, do it in your head or while reading a book, replace words with synonyms as you go along, and remake sentences. In this way, you will increase the level of language proficiency, fluency, and you will not be surprised by the situation when you forgot the word, because there will already be a chain of synonyms in your head that will come to your aid.
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A touch of adventurism. Many prefer to swim only in familiar waters and not open their mouths without being 150% sure of the correctness of the phrase, so as not to “lose face”. However, it is often possible to jump to a higher level only through the leap of faith leap of faith.
Yes, maybe now I’ll make a mistake, maybe I’ll keep it off topic, but I will try, move into the wilds where my foot has not set foot before. It is impossible to put straws everywhere and always be sure of every phrase, construction, phrase, idiom, etc. Sometimes you have to take risks.