9 Steps To Building Your Own Gravel Driveway…
If you are planning to build your gravel driveway, we can help! Fresh gravel not only enhances the curb appeal of your home, but it also increases the value of it. Many people assume that they will have to hire a professional to get the job done, but with the right tools and a detailed guide, you can build your own driveway. No need to spend extra on labor fees when you have the ability to do-it-yourself.
Materials & Equipment Checklist
Before you can get started on your gravel driveway, you will need to gather all the necessary equipment and materials. Not only will this help things go more smoothly, getting everything you need in the beginning will help you get the project done more efficiently.
Here’s what you need to complete your DIY driveway project:
- A Rake
- A Wheelbarrow
- Landscaping Fabric
- Landscaping Stakes
- Safety Working Gloves
Building Your Driveway Step-By-Step
- Step #1: Plan Your Layout – The first thing you will have to do is decide the layout of your driveway. Choose one that suits the scope of your property while also meeting your personal preferences. If your home sits away from any main road, a narrow driveway might be the best option. But if your home is closer to the road, you might choose a wider, more expansive driveway. Figure out which layout is most functional and attractive based on your own home and the land it sits on.
Step #2: Mark Your Boundaries – Next you will need to clearly mark the boundaries of the driveway you are building. Use a string and landscaping stakes to rope off the area how you want it. Measure out the driveway’s length and width to create uniformity. Before you begin digging, call 811 to make sure you do not hit any utility lines. You might also ask another person their opinion on your layout before you start. It’s always good to get more than one opinion when you are taking on a big project.
- Step #3: Deciding The Depth Of Your Driveway – Consider how deep you want your driveway to be. Making this decision early on allows you to know just how much soil you will have to dig out and how many layers of gravel you will need to lay down. Typically, the standard depth of a driveway is between 12 and 18 inches. Yours should fall somewhere in that range.
- Step #4: Time To Excavate – Once you have all of your measurements ready, you can start excavating. You will need your shovels and garden hoes. Once you’ve dug out the soil, use your wheelbarrow to haul it off away from the area. This tends to be a long process, but you’ve got it! If doing it by hand is too much to take on, you can lease special equipment and machines to excavate. Not only will this speed up the process, but it will also provide you with better, more accurate results. Remember that any excavated ground has to go somewhere, so consider how you can use it around your property or look for local services that will haul it off.
Step #5: Figure Out How Much Materials You Will Need – After you have excavated the area, you are left with a hollow driveway path that needs to be filled with driveway aggregates. But before you can fill it, you need to determine how much gravel you need to complete the project. Calculating this now will help you avoid spending unnecessary money on materials. Don’t worry, you do not have to be an expert to get the right calculations. You will only need to get the correct volume in cubic tons and yards. To calculate this, you need to enter the length, depth, and width of the area. Your calculator will then provide you with how much materials you need for your project.
- Step #6: Prepping The Base Of Your Driveway – Now that you are done excavating and know just how much materials you need to purchase, it is time to prep your driveway base. In order to get gravel aggregates to sit firmly on the ground, you need the right base layer. Lay down your landscaping fabric to avoid weed growth.
- Step #7: Install And Compress Each Layer – Most driveways have three layers, each one between 4 and 6 inches in depth. First you will need to start with a base layer using large rocks, the second layer has smaller rocks, and the third, a top layer of gravel. After you pour each layer, carefully compress it using a heavy compressor or even just your vehicle (you will have to drive over several times.) Either way, you need to do this strategically and allow for time for the rock to dry before moving on to the next layer.
- Step #8: Crowning The Surface – Water is the easiest way to poison a driveway. If you want to protect it, you need to grade the crushed stones and crown your driveway. Incline the stones to the side to properly drain any rainwater. This will need to be a part of your routine maintenance and done seasonally.
- Step #9: Time To Enjoy Your New Driveway – Once you have finished all the steps, you can now enjoy and use your DIY driveway. Building a driveway is not as hard as you might have thought– you just need the right materials, follow each step of the process, and put it to use.
A nice driveway will add value to your home without breaking the bank in the process. This DIY project is easy to maintain and makes for an affordable option that will look great. Our step-by-step guide provides you with all you need to know when it comes to adding a new gravel driveway to finish off your home.
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How to Build a Greener Driveway
Install a permeable driveway to keep pollutants out of water sources and groundwater levels balanced
The next time you hear the rhythm of rain as it drums overhead, grab your boots and venture outside to follow the rainwater’s journey. After it hits your roof, where does it go to next?
If your home is like most, the water probably travels down gutters, through downspouts and onto an asphalt driveway, picking up traces of pollutants such as petroleum and pesticides along the way. Down a street gutter it goes, eventually finding its way into a storm drain. This may be as far as you can visibly follow the journey, but it certainly doesn’t stop there. Much stormwater runoff finds its way into nearby rivers and lakes.
Kettelkamp & Kettelkamp
Redirecting stormwater into the ground is a much greener option. Microorganisms in the soil are able to digest the pollutants, purifying the water on its path back into the aquifer. Allowing the water to seep into the ground also helps prevent the erosion of nearby waterways caused by runoff.
By replacing your impervious asphalt or concrete driveway with a permeable surface, you’ll be supporting groundwater recharge while also visually softening your property.
Kanner Architects – CLOSED
The first step in installing a permeable driveway (sometimes referred to as a sustainable drainage system, or SuDS) is deciding which design will work best for you.
Open-cell pavers are simply concrete pavers with holes that can be filled with a pervious material. Filling the cells with vegetation can soften the entire look and add a bit of green to your site.
The open-cell pavers shown here provide the minimum surface area a car would need to navigate the path.
What’s underneath the pavers is what really counts. A solid base is key to minimizing heaving and cracking. You will need a 6-inch subbase of 1½-inch clean rock topped with a 4-inch base of ¾-inch clean rock, to make the driveway stable enough for cars to pass over it. The paver system goes on top of that. A polyurethane liner should be used near any foundation walls or concrete that needs to be protected from water flow-back.
Billy Goodnick Garden Design
Pervious pavers commonly have joints filled with aggregate to allow water to penetrate between the pavers. Tabs are formed into each paver, providing the correct joint width and making installation easier. As with open-cell pavers, a sturdy base is required.
Some ceramic pavers are actually porous themselves, allowing the water to pass through the surface directly, instead of through the gaps between. This means the gap can be narrower and doesn’t have to be refilled with aggregate as often — a common chore with other pervious paver systems.
Landscape Plus, LLC
Due to the small size of the pavers, cracking or heaving is not an issue in cold climates.
Gravel is another surface to consider. It will also need a base underlayment to maximize its pervious nature. Usually this is a plastic mat made up of circular or honeycomb cells structured to provide load-bearing support. These cells are filled with gravel and help keep rainwater in the soil and out of sewers.
If you are in a climate that has a lot of snow, and your driveway commonly needs plowing in the winter, gravel can require more maintenance.
Tom Hurt Architecture
A combination of systems can be used, too. Pavers and concrete strips together give this driveway visual interest.
PLACE architect ltd.
When you have decided on a system and are ready to install it, look to redirect as much of the water as possible from your patio, roofline and downspouts to the new permeable area, so you’re capturing as much runoff water as possible.
Systems like this open cell with vegetation allow water to pass through as much as 40 percent of the surface area.
Most jurisdictions enforce land-use codes that limit the buildable area on a lot. Many also include a maximum amount of impervious surface area allowed on a parcel. The driveway is a great place to include more permeable area, especially if the lot is small.
Jen Dalley //
Interested in adding a permeable driveway? Here’s more info:
Who to hire: You’ll need an excavator to dig a trench for the system and a landscape crew to put in the paver system — especially if you use concrete and don’t want to mix and place the concrete yourself.
Considerations: Find out what type of soil you have. It could range from sand (fast drainage time) to clay (longer drainage time).
Hammer & Hand
Permit: Check with your local municipality. Usually a permit is not needed for driveways less than 18 inches above grade and not over a basement or other building story.
Best time to do this project: Late spring or summer, when the weather will cooperate. Construction during winter in colder climates is not recommended due to frost-depth issues.
Project length: One to two weeks.
Cost: Typically $5 to $20 per square foot, although the final cost will be affected by the type of paver, your location, the size of the project and the amount of site work required.
PLACE architect ltd.
By installing a permeable driveway, you’ll be directly protecting the integrity of our natural resources, supporting groundwater recharge and adding green space to help balance carbon dioxide levels.
More: Easy Ways to Manage Stormwater for Lower Bills and a Healthier Earth
Item 3 of 7
Item 3 of 7
8.1. Passages, driveways and entrances to residential and public buildings, structures of functional fire hazard classes F1
For the procedure for applying this document, see Information letter of the EMERCOM of Russia dated 04.09.2020 N 43-6900-19.
8.1. Passages, driveways and entrances to residential and public buildings, structures of functional fire hazard classes F1 – F4
8.1.1. The access of fire trucks to residential and public buildings, structures must be provided along the entire length:
a) from two longitudinal sides – to multi-storey buildings and structures of functional fire hazard class F1. 3 with a height of 28 m or more, functional fire hazard classes F1.2, F2.1, F2.2, F3, F4.2, F4 .3, F.4.4 height of 18 m or more;
b) on one longitudinal side – to one-story buildings and structures of the above classes, as well as to multi-storey buildings and structures of the above classes with a lower height, provided that one of the following conditions is met: or all rooms or apartments have a two-way orientation;
when arranging from the side of the building where there is no fire entrance, external open stairs connecting the loggias and balconies of adjacent floors to each other;
when arranging external stairs of the 3rd type in the corridor layout of buildings;
c) from all sides – to buildings and structures of functional fire hazard classes F1.1, F4.1.
Buildings with a built-up area of more than 10,000 m 2 or a width of more than 100 m must be provided with fire trucks from all sides.
8.1.2. On the territory located between the entrance for fire trucks and a building or structure, it is not allowed to place fences (with the exception of fences for front gardens), overhead power lines, carry out row planting of trees and install other structures and products that can create obstacles for the operation of fire ladders and car lifts.
8.1.3. If it is impossible to comply with the requirements of regulatory documents regarding the arrangement of fire passages, entrances and providing access for fire departments to extinguish a fire and conduct emergency rescue operations, the possibility of ensuring the activities of fire departments at the protection facility should be confirmed in the documents of preliminary planning of actions to extinguish fires and conduct rescue operations.
8.1.4. The width of passages for fire trucks, depending on the height of buildings or structures, must be at least:
3.5 m – with a height of buildings or structures up to 13 m inclusive;
4.2 m – at the height of buildings or structures from 13 m to 46 m inclusive;
6 m – if the height of buildings or structures is more than 46 m.
8.1.5. It is allowed to include sidewalks adjacent to such driveways in the total width of driveways for fire trucks combined with entrances to buildings and structures.
8.1.6. The distance from the inner edge of the entrance to the outer walls or other enclosing structures of residential and public buildings, structures should be:
for buildings, structures up to 28 m high inclusive – 5 – 8 m;
for buildings, structures over 28 m high – 8 – 10 m.
8.1.7. The design of the pavement of driveways (including reinforced lawns, lawn grids) for fire equipment, as well as sites for its installation, must be designed for the load from fire trucks.
8.1.8. The width of the gates of car entrances to the fenced areas should ensure the unimpeded passage of fire trucks.
8.1.9. In closed and semi-enclosed yards, it is necessary to provide passages for fire trucks.
8.1.10. Through passages (arches) in buildings and structures should be at least 3.5 m wide, at least 4.5 m high and located no more than every 300 m, and in reconstructed areas when building along the perimeter – no more than 180 m.
In the historical development of settlements and urban districts, it is allowed to maintain the existing dimensions of through passages (arches).
8.1.11. Dead-end driveways (entrances) must end with fire truck turnaround areas of at least 15 x 15 m. The maximum length of a dead-end driveway should not exceed 150 m. several turnaround areas located at distances of no more than 150 m from each other.
8.1.12. With a building length of more than 100 m in stairwells, lobbies or elevator halls at the level of entrances to the building, structure or floor of the first floor for laying fire hoses, through passages should be provided to the opposite side of the building, structures at least 100 m apart. When buildings and structures adjoin at an angle to each other, the distance along the perimeter from the side of external water supply networks with fire hydrants is taken into account. The width of these passages should be at least 1.2 m and be configured to prevent sharp kinks in the fire hoses when they are laid.
The specified through passages may not be performed if the water supply network with the installation of fire hydrants on it is provided on both longitudinal sides of the building.
8.1.13. When using the roof of the stylobate for the entrance of fire trucks, the structures of the stylobate must be designed for the load from them at the rate of at least 16 tons per axle.
8.1.14. The possibility of access for fire trucks (motor pumps) and water intake in accordance with the requirements of SP 8.13130 and other regulatory documents on fire safety should be provided for sources of external fire-fighting water supply.
8.1.15. Planning solutions for low-rise residential buildings with houses of functional fire hazard class F1.4 (up to 3 floors inclusive), as well as horticultural and horticultural non-profit partnerships must ensure the access of fire equipment to buildings and structures at a distance of no more than 50 m.
8.1.16. On the territory of horticultural and horticultural non-profit partnerships, the width of passages for fire equipment must be at least 3.5 m.
Who is responsible for cleaning the entrance to an apartment building
- Who is responsible for the cleanliness of the entrance
- Types and timing of cleaning
- Maintenance fee for common property
- What to do if it’s dirty
The entrance is cleaned by the management company, HOA or housing cooperative
Who is responsible for cleanliness entrance
Many Russians are used to washing the stairwell in the house with their own hands. This awareness is a relic of the Soviet era.
This is wrong, at least because the payment for an apartment contains the item “maintenance and repair of the common property of an apartment building” or simply “maintenance of housing”.
That is, the tenants pay for this service, which means that the management company, HOA, ZhSK or any other organization chosen by the residents of the house will be responsible for cleaning.
This approach is confirmed by law. The government has also set minimum standards for the provision of cleaning services.
According to the law, common house property includes:
- premises in the house, not related to apartments;
- elevators, elevator shafts, corridors;
- technical floors, attics and basements;
- communications in the house.
Prior to concluding agreements with the owners of the management company, HOA or housing cooperative approve the list of works, determining tariffs. For convenience, in the text we will use the collective concept of “management company”.
Maria bought an apartment in a new residential complex . She , like and others neighbors , wanted to see 9 0120 purity not only self at home , but and to entrance .
Reviews about managers organizations , which offered housing , were not very good . Therefore they decided to create HOA .
Owners apartments , including Maria , paid fixed amount every month . Cleaning was carried out qualitatively and in a timely manner – girl was satisfied .
Types and terms cleaning
The norms for cleaning entrances in an apartment building include the types and terms of such actions. MC must:
- clean vestibules, corridors, platforms in front of the elevator, etc.;
- wipe window sills, window bars, stair railings, electricity meter boxes;
- wash windows;
- carry out deratization and disinfestation of premises;
- clean protection systems.
Public utilities need to ensure the cleanliness of stairwells, set the mode of their ventilation.
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How often should the entrance be cleaned? Every day, employees of the Criminal Code need to sweep the landings and marches of the two lower floors. Above the second floor, this should be done weekly. In addition, every day the janitors are required to clean the floor in the elevator.
Employees must clean windows, walls, meter boxes, mailboxes, etc. every year.
Regional authorities may set their own cleaning standards for MCs.
The law defines the minimum standards and frequency of cleaning entrances
Fee for maintenance of the common property
First, the Criminal Code calculates the total annual cost of all maintenance work on the common property. This may include hiring employees, purchasing supplies, contractor costs, and other payments.
This amount is divided by the number of homeowners, taking into account their share in the common property.
The owner of a three-room apartment will pay more than the owner of a one-room apartment, because his share in the common property is higher.
The resulting amount is divided by 12 to calculate the monthly payment for each apartment owner.
Tired of a dirty entrance? Consider relocation. Moreover, you can take a mortgage loan for a new apartment.
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How to be , if is dirty
Residents can resist negligent CC. If the cleaning of the common premises is of poor quality, you can file a complaint with the management company. Better to do it in writing. The Criminal Code collects a special commission to assess the level of cleaning.
If appeals to the management company do not help, complain to the State Housing Inspectorate, Rospotrebnadzor and the prosecutor’s office. They are required to consider your appeal within 30 days.
After the inspection, the departments will take measures, including obliging the Criminal Code to eliminate violations, or bringing them to administrative responsibility.
How to find out the management company
If you understand that some services are not provided to you at all or are of poor quality, you can demand in writing the recalculation of utility bills and return part of the money.
Let’s say that didn’t help. Hold a general meeting of owners. More than 50% of apartment owners should take part in it (based on the area of housing).