Extractor fan pull cord not working: Bathroom extractor fan pull cord switch broke
Bathroom extractor fan pull cord switch broke
starfire
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#1
Hi,
The pullcord switch for our bathroom extractor fan has broken and needs replacing. The switch directly controls the fan turning it on and off, it has no timer.
I bought a new 2 way 6A pullcord switch thinking this would be OK, but on looking at the existing switch it has black+red wires coming to one side marked IN and black+red wires on the other side (ie 4 connections in total not counting the 2 earth).
My new switch only has L1, L2 and COM. I’ve got a feeling the existing switch is a double poll? Presumably I should only replace it with a double poll and my new switch is no use?
Any advice welcome!
Thanks.
Adam_151
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#2
Yes, you should take back your switch and obtain a double pole one
You could make it work by joining the neutrals and just switching the phase, but I’m 99.9% sure the switch is an isolator in this case and must switch all live conductors
RF Lighting
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#3
starfire said:
My new switch only has L1, L2 and COM.
I’ve got a feeling the existing switch is a double poll? Presumably I should only replace it with a double poll and my new switch is no use?
Click to expand…
I’ve got a feeling the existing switch is a double poll? Presumably I should only replace it with a double poll and my new switch is no use?I’m afraid you are correct on all three counts.
Sorry.
starfire
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#4
Wow, thanks for the quick replies chaps!
I’ll try and find somewhere local selling a DP pullcord switch…
Thing is, why is the extractor fan switched like this but presumably the light switch just uses a single pole one like I purchased?
RF Lighting
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#5
Like adam said in your installation the pull switch is acting as an isolator to the fan rather than a switch for it.
starfire
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#6
Ok, cheers.
AndyPRK
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#7
movedddddddddddddddddddd
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How to replace the pull cord on a bathroom extractor fan
fadetoblack22
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#1
My bathroom extractor fan hasn’t had a cord on it for a while since it fell off, so I am going to replace it.
I have taken the cover off and marked in the image below where I think it goes. There was a cap over this which I haven’t included in the photo.
What I need to know now is what cord I need to buy and how I install it into the fan
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
GarethW
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#2
The easiest thing to do would be to replace the entire fan, they retail from around £10.00.
fadetoblack22
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#3
GarethW said:
The easiest thing to do would be to replace the entire fan, they retail from around £10.
Click to expand…
00.Great, thanks I will do that!
Taylortwocities
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#4
A new fan would be best,
or you could install one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LY2242.html
fadetoblack22
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#5
Taylortwocities said:
A new fan would be best,
or you could install one of these:
http://www.
Thanks! I have bought a new fan in the end
Click to expand…
tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LY2242.html[/QUOTE]
ban-all-sheds
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#6
Which Zone is the fan in, what have you done with the earth core of the cable, and why is it not clamped properly?
fadetoblack22
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#7
ban-all-sheds said:
Which Zone is the fan in, what have you done with the earth core of the cable, and why is it not clamped properly?
Click to expand.
..It’s a bathroom fan.
I didn’t understand the second question.
By clamped, if you mean the bit that I have marked red, I took it out to take the photo so you could see it properly.
NewOrder
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#8
Isn’t this a class II device hence no earth required?
By clamping I assume the poster meant the gripper rod? It looks like the cable is supposed to be gripped with that, but because the outer sheath has been chopped off it doesn’t grip, however I am guessing that is supposed to be used for flex.
Make sure the new fan is a class two as it appears you have no earth, if its a class one you would need to rewire it all.
Each part of the bathroom is separated in different zones, and depending where it is it may no longer be legal to have a fan there, and it may need RCD protection (I don’t know the exact rules as I am not a spark).
ban-all-sheds
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#9
fadetoblack22 said:
[I didn’t understand the second question.
Click to expand…
//www.diynot.com/wiki/http:bathroom-zones
By clamped, if you mean the bit that I have marked red, I took it out to take the photo so you could see it properly.
Click to expand…
No – I mean where the cable comes in – the sheath should go under the clamp just before the terminal block.
fadetoblack22
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#10
joydivision said:
Isn’t this a class II device hence no earth required?
By clamping I assume the poster meant the gripper rod? It looks like the cable is supposed to be gripped with that, but because the outer sheath has been chopped off it doesn’t grip, however I am guessing that is supposed to be used for flex.
Make sure the new fan is a class two as it appears you have no earth, if its a class one you would need to rewire it all.
Each part of the bathroom is separated in different zones, and depending where it is it may no longer be legal to have a fan there, and it may need RCD protection (I don’t know the exact rules as I am not a spark).
Click to expand…
Would this be class one or two? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Manrose-Ext…FU68/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319118987&sr=8-2
EFLImpudence
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#11
It is class II but see here for fitting instructions.
It doesn’t need an earth but the cable should have one.
fadetoblack22
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#12
EFLImpudence said:
It is class II but see here for fitting instructions.
It doesn’t need an earth but the cable should have one.
Click to expand…
Great! Thanks!
Taylortwocities
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#13
give him a
Untitled
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ban-all-sheds
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#14
EFLImpudence said:
see here for fitting instructions.
Click to expand…
Do we take “The fan must not be accessible to a person using either the shower or bath” to mean Zone 2, or beyond that (I can easily reach 60cm beyond where I’m standing….)?
Taylortwocities
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#15
Those instructions do not apply to Twizzle.
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How to connect an exhaust fan
When connecting an exhaust fan, you must follow a few rules that will not be superfluous to repeat:
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- connect only when the mains is de-energized.
- fixed wiring must be equipped with circuit breaker . The connection must be made via a QF circuit breaker built into the fixed wiring. The gap between the circuit breaker contacts on all poles must be at least 3 mm.
- connect only when the mains is de-energized.
Connection of 220 V is made to the fan through the built-in terminal box. It is located under the front cover of the fan. All terminals on the fan are signed.
- L – here we connect the wire with phase,
- LT – we connect the wire with the phase that comes from the external switch (for models with a timer, humidity sensor
- N – zero
Fan connection without sensors
If you need to connect a fan without sensors, then this scheme is for you. Any standard key switch is suitable for this task. As a switch, you can use the RS-1-300 speed controller, which is built into a standard mounting box.
This speed controller can turn on the fan and change the performance of the hood. With a decrease in performance, the noise level decreases, if you need a quick removal of air, you can select the maximum performance.
Fan with cord-switch
The fan is turned on and off with a cord attached to the fan housing. Phase and zero are connected to the fan.
These fans are most often used to ventilate kitchens or other rooms where power is already supplied to the installation site without the possibility of removing a separate switch.
Fan with timer or humidity sensor
The wiring diagram for a fan equipped with a timer and a fan with a humidity sensor is the same. The fan with a timer starts its operation when voltage is applied from an external switch to the LT terminal. After pressing the switch button, the fan will continue to work for the time set on the timer. Such a fan can be tied to turn on along with lighting.
It is advisable to use this fan for exhaust ventilation of toilets and bathrooms.
The fan with a humidity sensor can be turned on by force or it turns on automatically when the set humidity level is exceeded. Humidity is set in the range from 60 to 90%. The fan will work until the humidity drops to the required level, after which it will work for another time according to the delay timer and turn off.
These fans are used to ventilate the bathroom, laundry or drying room. They are also used for exhaust ventilation of the basements of a private house with a high level of humidity.
Fan with motion sensor
The fan turns on automatically when a person moves at a distance of 1-4 meters with a viewing angle of 100. After the person has left the room, the fan will continue to run for a timer and turn off. The delay time can be set under the front panel of the fan from 2 to 30 minutes.
Like a fan with a switch cord, such a fan can be installed for ventilation of rooms where a constant phase and zero are connected to the fan installation site and it is not possible to install a separate external switch.
Fan connection equipped with built-in lamp
There are fans equipped with light or lamp in our store. Such fans can be turned on together with the backlight, or the fan can be turned on separately, and the built-in backlight can be turned on separately.
This circuit is suitable for simultaneously turning on a fan with built-in lighting
This circuit is suitable for separately switching on a fan and built-in light
unpleasant odors accumulate and excess moisture. This creates ideal conditions for the development of harmful flora. Very unhealthy mold and fungus instantly appear in the bathroom, appliances and furniture can deteriorate, finishing materials are gradually destroyed.
Properly organized ventilation system helps to maintain a healthy indoor climate. But how to prevent possible problems associated with its malfunction, and what to do if the hood stops working?
We will talk about the signs and causes of a poor ventilation system, how to assess the performance of ventilation ducts using simple tools at hand.
We will also analyze typical malfunctions and explain how to repair the ventilation in the toilet and bathroom with your own hands.
Article content:
- How is the ventilation system arranged?
- Diagnosing problems with the vent in the bathroom
- Signs and causes of a malfunctioning ventilation
- Ways to fix the ventilation in the bathroom
- Method #1 – cleaning the grate and ventilation ducts
- Method # 2 – optimizing the air flow
9 0005 Method # 3 – arrangement of forced ventilation
- Method #4 – repair of the exhaust fan
How is the ventilation system arranged?
To find and eliminate the cause of poor performance of the system, you need to understand the device and ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.
Air circulation in apartments and houses occurs due to two types of ventilation: natural and forced. In the first case, air enters the premises through windows, doors or ventilators and is removed through special channels located at the top of the wall in the kitchen and bathroom.
Having risen along the vertical air duct, the air masses, together with excess moisture, dust and carbon dioxide, go into the ventilation shaft. The whole process is carried out due to the difference between the pressure and temperature of the indoor and outdoor air.
For sanitary rooms, where the level of humidity is always high, the problem of effective ventilation is especially relevant. Exhaust air in the bathroom and toilet should be removed at a rate of 25 m³ / h, in combined bathrooms – 50 m³ / h. These are the minimum norms
The effectiveness of a standard ventilation system is affected by the degree of tightness of windows and walls, the condition of the ventilation ducts, and weather conditions. Therefore, the operation of natural supply and exhaust channels is often unstable.
If there is not enough natural ventilation, a controlled forced system is installed in the bathroom. The quality of its work does not depend on external factors, but is determined by the performance of the fan, which increases the intensity of air exchange and speeds up the procedure for removing exhaust air, forcing it out into the street.
Fresh air enters the bathroom from the living rooms.
Diagnosis of problems with the hood in the bathroom
Special diagnostics aimed at checking the draft will help assess the condition of the ventilation system. The event is carried out in several stages using improvised means or special devices.
It is better to check the operation of natural ventilation in the cold season. Before this, it is recommended to ensure the flow of fresh air: open the window or set the windows to the ventilation mode. In sanitary rooms, the door should be slightly opened.
The easiest way to diagnose at home is to test by fire. It is necessary to take a lighted match, a lighter or a candle and carefully bring the flame to the grate of the ventilation duct, which removes exhaust air from the bathroom
The functionality of the ventilation ducts is assessed by the behavior of the flame brought to the grate: normal;
It should be noted that this technique is unsafe and is highly discouraged for use by gas service specialists. If there is a leak in the house, gas accumulates in the ventilation shafts. Under such circumstances, an open flame can start a fire or explosion.
A safer method is to test with a thin sheet of paper. As in the previous case, it is brought to the vent. The paper is taken by the lower tip and held in a vertical position near the grate.
If the paper is strongly attracted to the grate and held on it, the ventilation works well. A short sticking or a slight deviation towards the hole indicates weak traction. If nothing happens, and the sheet remains motionless, the system is faulty. Paper repulsion is a sign of backdraft
The outflow of air can also be felt through tactile sensations. To do this, wet your hand and bring your wet palm to the outlet. The presence of air flow is determined by the cooling breath.
These diagnostic options will only give a general idea of the health of the ventilation in the bathroom.
It is possible to obtain a quantitative assessment of the efficiency and determine the compliance of the state of the system with the standards using special instruments – anemometers.
Anemometers measure the speed of air flow in a ventilation duct. They are often used by professionals, but simple models are quite suitable for use at home
The device is brought to the ventilation grill at a distance indicated in the instructions. After a few seconds, the display shows the airflow rate ( V ). Having fixed the received figure, it is necessary to calculate the volume of air passed through the system using the formula:
The result is compared with the standard parameters. The optimal value for the bathroom is 25 m³ / h. The norm for combined bathrooms should be twice as much.
We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the work of ventilation ducts in the apartment.
Signs and Causes of Ventilation Problems
When the ventilation system fails, problems arise.
This affects the comfort of residents and can result in unpleasant health consequences.
Impaired air exchange in the bathroom can be judged by the following signs:
- increased air humidity;
- copious condensation on mirrors and bathroom walls;
- unpleasant musty odours;
- rust formation on metal surfaces;
- destruction of finishing materials and “swelling” of furniture coverings;
- appearance on ceilings, walls and corners;
- the hood in the bathroom blows in the opposite direction;
- loud noise from air ducts.
Before troubleshooting, you need to find out the specific cause and understand exactly where intervention is required. There can be several reasons for ventilation failure. The main and most common is blockage of ventilation shafts. Also, problems with traction are caused by insufficient air flow.
Frequent “culprits” of disturbed air flow are tight doors and high thresholds in bathrooms.
When using such structures, traction will be present only when the doors are open. Unpleasant odors and steam begin to accumulate in closed rooms
This usually happens after the installation of hermetic PVC windows with double-glazed windows and additional sealing circuits. They impede the flow of fresh air currents, significantly weakening the thrust.
Ventilation malfunctions can also occur due to damage or wear of the exhaust fan mechanisms, clogged filters in the grilles, and corrosive processes. Such factors lead to a deterioration in air quality and increase the resistance of the channels.
Another reason for poor ventilation is repair or refurbishment of the neighbor’s system.
There are several possible scenarios for the development of events:
- as a result of the modernization of the layout or the installation of additional equipment, the ventilation ducts are blocked;
- during the renovation on the top floor, the shaft becomes clogged with construction waste;
- The creation of a strong forced inflow from below provokes a reverse draft, preventing air circulation.
Although these actions by neighbors are not intentional, they are classified as administrative violations for which a fine is provided.
The backdraft effect can be caused not only by repairs in neighboring apartments, blockage of the air duct and excessive sealing of the premises. Of great importance is the correct design of the exhaust system of the house, installation of channels and additional equipment
Significant deviations from the vertical of the air ducts, unsuccessful roof design projects, high heat transfer rates of external walls, which will help to reduce, have a negative impact on the operation of the exhaust ducts.
In addition, the deterioration of air exchange is often associated with the season. Ventilation works best during the cold season. In summer, due to almost the same temperature inside and outside, the so-called “air lock” is created in the room. With an increase in external temperature marks, natural thrust always weakens.
Ways to fix the ventilation in the bathroom
Having found out the cause, you can start working on troubleshooting and optimizing the functioning of the ventilation system. How to do this, we give further detailed instructions.
Method #1 – cleaning the grate and ventilation ducts
In most cases, the ventilation system stops working due to a banal blockage. According to generally accepted rules, tenants of high-rise buildings do not have the right to repair and clean engineering communications at home. To do this, it is recommended to call specialists from managers and other organizations that have permission for such types of work. But there are some things you can do on your own.
First of all, you need to check your section of the shaft, coming from the bathroom: remove the grate and look inside, highlighting with a flashlight. In no case should you light the channel with a lighter or a match. When dry debris ignites, the fire will instantly spread throughout the entire ventilation duct.
Carefully clean the ventilation grille and filters, which become very dirty over time. It is best to do this every few months. The elements are removed, washed under running water and cleaned with a hard bristled brush. Alternatively, you can blow out the mesh with compressed air.
Anything can be in the shaft: construction waste, cobwebs, dust, dead birds and rodents. Debris seen in an accessible visible area should be carefully removed with a spatula, spatula or toilet brush. Then you can vacuum the place near the entrance.
After completing the cleaning of the channel, it is advisable to check the ventilation again using one of the listed diagnostic methods. If the problem persists, then the ventilation shaft at home is clogged. To get it, you need to contact the housing authority or the landlord.
Technique #2 – airflow optimization
The second way to improve ventilation system performance is to optimize airflow. Since the natural circulation of air masses is often disturbed due to the tightness of metal-plastic windows, we will start with them.
On the one hand, modern window structures retain heat, on the other hand, they hinder ventilation. How to proceed in this case?
There are several options:
- frequent ventilation of the premises;
- at the top of the frame;
- assembly .
Keeping the windows open all the time is not the best solution in winter. It is much more reasonable to install the supply valve on the wall or order window structures with a built-in valve on top.
The inlet valve is fixed in a through hole made in the wall. Outside, they put a protective grill, inside – a noise-absorbing box. When installing an angle valve with a flexible duct, the hole is made at an angle to the floor.
An additional method to improve air exchange in the bathroom is to depressurize the doors. If the bathroom has a high threshold, it is no longer worth removing it.
The problem with the tightness of the doors is solved by installing door flaps, decorative grilles or rings.
Lattices are presented on the market in different shapes and sizes. You can pick up both a small round and a long rectangular design
Alternatively, trim the lower part of the door leaf by approx. 2 cm. This way the door does not fit snugly against the frame, allowing air to enter the room more freely.
Method #3 – arrangement of forced ventilation
Due to the nature of the arrangement and high humidity, the natural ventilation system in the bathrooms does not always give the desired effect. In addition, if neighbors have additional equipment installed in the channels, this often provokes reverse draft, disrupting air exchange.
In this situation, cleaning and optimizing the inflow will not help restore the normal operation of the ventilation system. In the absence of sufficient traction after applying the previous methods, there is only one way out -.
Fans with a low-voltage asynchronous motor are most suitable for bathrooms. They are safe, reliable and low noise
Criteria for choosing the right bathroom fan:
- Performance.
- Noise level.
- Power consumption and motor type.
- Enclosure rating.
- Additional options.
The minimum flow rate for a bathroom is 50 m³/h. But it is more reliable to calculate the required indicator in each case individually according to the formula:
Vvent \u003d V x (6 …
To calculate the volume of a room, multiply the area by the height. If there is a reverse draft in the ventilation system, it is worth choosing a more powerful fan that can suppress the resistance in the duct. It is desirable that the noise level of the device does not exceed 40 dB. It is also important to make sure that the equipment is able to work in conditions of high humidity, has protection against water ingress. The optimal degree of protection of the housing for installation in the shower area or above the bath is IP25. The electrical power consumed depends on the speed of rotation of the blades and is about 50-200 W. There are models with several speed modes. Check valve fans help prevent odors from entering the bathroom from other rooms. The valve closes the section after the device is turned off Depending on the installation location, there are wall and ceiling fans. According to the type of construction, they are distinguished: As additional functions, the device can be provided with a timer, humidity and motion sensors. The timer turns on the device simultaneously with the lighting and turns it off automatically, taking into account the pre-set delay time. A useful option for the bathroom is the humidity sensor. It turns off the fan if the moisture level is exceeded. We talked about the types of fans and the intricacies of choosing the best in more detail. Installing the fan is easy. It is necessary to supply power, adjust the dimensions of the exhaust opening, fix the device inside the ventilation pipes or at the outlet of the socket, depending on the type of construction, and connect the switch. If the room is equipped with forced ventilation, a sudden deterioration in air exchange may be due to the fact that the exhaust fan in the bathroom has stopped working for some reason. Untimely elimination of mechanical breakdowns leads to problems with the electrical part. Therefore, upon noticing any signs of malfunction, it is necessary to urgently check Fan failures are divided into mechanical and electrical. Typical signs of mechanical problems include: Electrical breakdowns are accompanied by the smell of burnt wiring, the operation of circuit breakers when the fan is turned on, interruptions in operation, difficulties in the process of changing modes. The rotation speed may also be reduced, but the shaft will be free to rotate by hand when the instrument is turned off. The most common problem is bearing contamination, insufficient lubrication of moving parts. In the presence of extraneous noise and a decrease in speed, follow: If lubrication does not help, noise and shaft wobble persist during operation, most likely the fan will need to be replaced. Also, replacement is carried out when any of the parts, for example, the impeller, is destroyed. When the device does not turn on, it is worth checking the serviceability of the switches and the power cord, the voltage on the electric motor, the operability of the capacitor, and disturbances in the power supply circuit. A common cause of fan failure is a blown fuse. In this case, users recommend trying to solder a copper wire jumper in place of the failed part and wrap it with insulating tape. Please note that in the absence of knowledge in the field of electrics and a lack of understanding of the features of the fan device, it is better not to repair it yourself. It is better to contact specialized workshops. In practice, in most cases it is more profitable than repairing a broken exhaust fan in the bathroom. How to clean the ventilation duct from dust and dirt with your own hands: How to eliminate noise and vibration in the exhaust fan: detailed instructions for disassembling the device and lubricating parts: one of typical fan failures: what to do if the fuse is blown: 
It is indicated on the box.
In the toilets put models with motion sensors. They start the device by detecting movement within the field of view and viewing angle. Option #4 – Repairing the Exhaust Fan
To do this, you need a multimeter Conclusions and useful video on the topic
