Injection Treatment Method, rising damp treatment
PROTECT YOUR MASONRIES AND
TREAT THEM SIMPLY AGAINST RISING DAMP.
Damage: humidity in walls
What rising damp means?
Rising damp is a vertical capillary movement of ground water in masonry.
A rising damp sign is often a visible tide-mark about 1m above floor level.
Rising dampness is one of the main cause of dampness in buildings.
Most walls in new buildings have a physical barrier or damp proof course to prevent rising dampness, however, in older buildings or if the physical barrier has broken down, it is important to install a remedial damp proof course (DPC).
During the diagnosis, the surveyor must make sure the damp problem doesn’t come from another damp issue such as plumbing defects, condensation or penetrating damp (rain water ingress).
How to stop rising damp? See our method below.
Damage of rising dampness: humidity in walls
Saltpeter, mold and fungus
A high humidity rate significantly promotes the development of molds and fungi.
The saltpeter is deposited on the surface of the wall in the form of white crystals of cottony appearance.
Blistering and degradation
Water, migrating to the inner walls, causes the blistering and peeling of decorative paints and coatings.
The salt stained plaster loses its hardness and adhesion. Decayed skirting boards and timber floors.
Rising damp treatment method by injection
The water in the soil rises naturally into the masonry and causes important degradations. Act in depth, for lasting results.
Rising damp can be cured by the installation of a chemical damp proof course.
Damp proofing keeps moisture out of a building thanks to the injection of a product to reduce the moisture transfer via capillary pores. Various active principles are available depending on the result needed, from a complete closure of the pores to pore hydrophobizing (Siliconate, Silicone Alcali silicate, Silane/Siloxane, Acrylate gel…).
What you need to install a remedial damp proof course (DPC):
- Concrete drill bits
- Mabi injectors diameter 12, 14 or 18mm (injection packers)
- Mabi pump with an injection tip
- DPC solution
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
To prepare the rising damp treatment, all coatings have to be removed; and brittle or non-adhesive parts located into the injection zone have to be brushed.
If the walls have many cavities or voids, prefilling these parts with a suitable non-shrinkable filler before the damp proof course injection is needed.
The injection holes have to be drilled on the outside, following a horizontal line or are placed in a staggered row in order to create a double chemical barrier.
Drilling is about 10cm above ground, in the mortar beds, spacing between boreholes is about 10/15cm and 2/3rd of the wall thickness.
Drill bits are available here
Plastic injection-packers are inserted into each injection hole, using a hammer and a mounting tool. The packers have been developed to keep enough pressure during and after the injection; to obtain an optimal diffusion of the damp proof course chemical into the thickness of the wall. It’s recommended to use diffusing tubes with the packers. Diffusing tubes have 360° micro holes, are driven into the thickness of the wall and adapt themselves at the bottom of the packer.
Injectors, also called injection packers are available in different sizes in our online shop
The damp proofing product is injected with low pressure thanks to a gun and the corresponding MABI pump.
Choose your pump depending on your needs here.
With their inner valve system, the Mabi injectors will force the waterproofing liquid solution to spread inside the masonry with no leaks or splash back.
For each injection, the injected product quantity should be controlled in order to respect the manufacturer’s chemical product instructions (DPC solution quantity to be injected per linear meter).
The packers allow an injection into the wall without backflow of chemical from the injected hole or the adjacent bore holes.
The product reacts in the masonry to become hydrophobic resin and create a barrier, called a remedial damp proof course (DPC).
After 2-3 weeks the moisture flow is stopped by the chemical barrier. It is then necessary to facilitate at the maximum the drain conditions of the treated masonry (aerate, warm up and dehumidify). Regular monitoring of humidity can follow the progress of drying and renovations begin only when the wall reaches a humidity level inferior to 5%.
Combine this approved method with a Damp Proof Course chemical, for example PCI Bohrlochsperre, Schomburg Aquafin-F , Remmers Kiesol, Bornit SI, Botazit MS10, Kreisel 900, Mapei Mapestop, Mautrol 1K, Sopro VK 690, Weber.tec 940 or any other brand labelled for this application in your country.
The methods are given for information purposes only.
Always refer to the local legislation and to the chemical manufacturer’s label before starting any job.
Always wear the Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) required and officially approved for chemical handling, including gloves, coverall, respirator and protective eyewear.
Dryzone Damp-Proofing Cream | DPC Injection Cream
Launched in 2000, Dryzone Damp-Proofing Cream has caused a revolution in the treatment of rising damp.
The patented Dryzone System now outsells our traditional chemical injection damp-proofing treatments and is the best-selling rising damp treatment on the UK market.
Dryzone has a number advantages over conventional chemical injection damp-proofing systems for both the contractor and the householder:
Quick to install
Up to 3 times faster than standard damp-proofing injection systems.
Simple to install
Less scope for operator error
Eliminates the need to introduce large volumes of liquid carrier into the wall. Dryzone is over four times stronger than many competing products.
Non-caustic, non-flammable, not injected under pressure.
Does not contain white spirit or iso-paraffins.
Spillage & mess virtually eliminated
No problems with damp-proofing fluid leaking into neighbouring rooms or properties.
No electric DPC pump required
Can be used in situations where power is not available.
Independent tests demonstrate that Dryzone provides a more effective barrier to rising damp than competing products.
Full instructions for installing Dryzone Damp-Proofing Cream can be found in the Dryzone datasheet on the ‘downloads’ tab of this page. For those requiring more detail, a 19-page guide to Rising Damp & its Control can also be downloaded.
Maximised DPC performance
The graph across shows the performance of high-strength DPC cream in a typical lime mortar compared with a low-strength DPC cream.
When treating rising damp, it is important to use a high-quality product that is capable of a level of performance as close as possible to a physical DPC. Performance of DPC creams vary depending on a number of factors like: mortar type, moisture content, pore structure but most of all, formulation and strength.
The Importance of Effective Damp-Proofing
|Standards & Accreditations|
Certificate PB 5. 1/08‑358/1
Report number 622X646‑11
Report number 403.275
Report number 0976/11/R12NM
Report number A‑58/2012
Naturally, homeowners want the most effective products available to be used to treat rising damp in their properties. Creating the best possible barrier to rising damp minimises moisture in the wall, blocks the build-up of ground salts, and reduces heat-loss. For this reason, Dryzone Damp-Proofing Cream has been formulated to form an effective DPC in walls of all types and has been tested under more conditions than any other rising damp treatment on the market.
This is important because no two walls suffering from rising damp are the same. In particular the physical properties of the mortar used to construct walls can vary considerably and this can have a significant influence on the effectiveness of any rising damp treatment.
The effectiveness of Dryzone has been verified under a wide range of test conditions by independent test houses around the world. Test conditions examined include:
- Saturated walls (up to 95% saturation)
- Low alkalinity mortar
- High alkalinity mortar
- Low porosity mortar
- High porosity mortar
- Lime-based mortar
- Cement-based mortar
Dryzone for all
Whether working on a new build or renovating a home, Dryzone DPC Cream can be used to install a new damp-proof course.
Silane/Siloxane formulation optimised for compatibility with a wide range of mortar types and combinations:
- Suitable for brick, stone & rubble construction
- Suitable for porous and low-alkalinity mortars
- Suitable for lime and cement-based mortars
An independent test report comparing the effectiveness of Dryzone with that of a competing low-strength damp-proofing cream can be downloaded free of charge in PDF format by clicking on the image to the right.
The report was carried out by the University of Portsmouth and published in February 2008.
Learn More about Dryzone
Treating Walls of Varying Thicknesses With Dryzone
The depth of each drill hole required for various thicknesses of solid wall is shown in the table below. For all other types of wall, the depth of the hole should be to within 40 mm of the opposite face. In all cases the most effective target site is to drill horizontally directly into the mortar course, preferably at the top of all perpends of the selected course.
|4½″ (115 mm)||9″ (230 mm)||13½″ (345 mm)||18″ (460 mm)|
|Depth of Drill Hole||95 mm||210 mm||325 mm||440 mm|
|Drill Hole Intervals||120 mm||120 mm||120 mm||120 mm|
First create a series of horizontal drill holes along the mortar course. Typically these holes are 12 mm in diameter and drilled at 120 mm intervals – refer to the Dryzone Application Instructions for details for particular wall thicknesses.
Insert a Dryzone cartridge into the applicator gun, ensuring the pressure piston is fully extended.
Cut into the end of the cartridge so that cream will be able to flow freely. Screw the nozzle cap back onto the gun.
Fully insert the nozzle into the first drilled hole, and then inject Dryzone cream while withdrawing the nozzle at a steady rate. Stop injecting just before removing the nozzle from the wall. Repeat for remaining holes.
Once the Dryzone is installed, it diffuses before curing to form a water-repellent resin. This prevents the damp from rising up the wall.
As with all remedial damp-proofing systems, it is necessary to remove and replace any salt-contaminated plaster. The introduction of our hybrid plasterboard method, the Dryzone Express Replastering System has greatly simplified this process. See our page on replastering as part of a rising damp treatment for details of replastering systems available.
For heritage projects, or where replastering needs to be minimised Dryzone Renovation Plasters should be used.
For Rising Damp treatment
Dryzone is not suitable for application to walls as a treatment for penetrating damp. Dryzone’s sister product, Stormdry Masonry Protection Cream should be used instead.
|Appearance||Thick, white cream|
|Size(s) & Packaging||5 litre plastic bucket, 600 ml foil sausage and 310 ml mastic cartridge|
|Number of 600 ml sausages required per 10 m wall |
|4½″ (115 mm) thick wall||1. 5|
|9″ (230 mm) thick wall||3|
|13½″ (345 mm) thick wall||5.1|
|18″ (460 mm) thick wall||7|
|Storage||Store flat and in a cool, dry, well ventilated place. Keep container closed.|
|Shelf Life||18 months in unopened pack|
Suggested NBS specification clause: C45-220
Visit our NBS page for further information on specifying Safeguard products using NBS.
Nitrous Oxide Injection Systems NOS Comments – Articles You must make sure that your vehicle is in good technical condition. All faulty parts – worn rings, bad gaskets, pumps, etc. – must be replaced, otherwise you will not get the maximum power increase. If you have an American car, for example, GM, then remember that GM engineers designed engines with a maximum margin of safety. Pay special attention to the transmission, brakes and tires.
What you need to increase engine power. The main way is to increase the air supply, thereby burning as much fuel as possible. There are several ways to accomplish this task, the most common and well-known is the use of turbines and mechanical superchargers. But we are talking about nitrogen – nitrogen injection is also a way (and a good one) to burn as much of the mixture as possible.
Nitrogen injection solves this problem in two ways. The first method has less effect in application and consists of the following: nitrogen is in a cylinder at a pressure of about 1000 Psi in a liquid state; when the system is activated, nitrogen passes into a gaseous state, which contributes to a decrease in air temperature. Those of you who remember a little physics know that lowering the temperature of air increases its density. A typical nitrogen injection system can lower the temperature of the incoming air by about 60 to 80 degrees F.
The second method is more efficient: nitric oxide is two-component, when heated to 572 degrees F, nitrooxide is divided into nitrogen and oxygen, namely oxygen, the content of which in nitrooxide is almost three times higher than in air allows you to burn the maximum amount fuel. Nitrogen injection also has a third, indirect, way to increase power: during the injection process, the pressure in the engine cylinders increases, which increases the combustion efficiency of the mixture.
Wet and Dry systems
There are two main types of nitrogen injection systems. “Wet” system, the principle of operation of which is to supply a fuel-nitrogen mixture. “Dry” system, the principle of which is directly to supply only nitrogen to the intake manifold. Obviously, there are advantages and disadvantages to both systems. Consider the operation of a “dry” system using the NOS 5176 kit and the LT1 engine as an example. The system operates at 80 psi fuel pressure. The increase in pressure and maintenance of a constant value in the line occurs through the operation of the fuel solenoid. At increased pressure, fuel enters directly into the intake manifold. This system increases the fuel pressure above normal precisely due to the operation of the solenoid. This type of system has several major advantages. Firstly, the installation of the system does not require cardinal intervention in the standard fuel system and the installation of an additional line, which facilitates installation. Second, as the nitrogen pressure in the tank fluctuates, the amount of fuel supplied will change by the same amount (because the system uses the nitrogen pressure to increase the amount of fuel burned).
This system has several drawbacks (remember, the system is installed on LT1). First, stock injectors may not be able to handle the 80 psi pressure required by the system, installing a set of Bosch/Ford SVO injectors can correct this shortcoming. Second, the amount of nitrogen injected into the manifold can vary while the amount of fuel is constant. Because of this, it is possible to inject an unbalanced air-fuel mixture into some cylinders.
“Wet” nitrogen injection systems are based on the use of special injector plates through which a mixture of fuel and nitrogen is injected. The plates are installed between the carburetor (throttle) and the intake manifold. The biggest advantage of these systems is that the mixture of fuel and nitrogen is constant, unlike “dry” systems. The disadvantage of this system, let me remind you for the LT1 engine, is as follows – in the intake manifold, due to design features, a fuel puddle can form (after the system is turned off, the puddle will disappear), secondly, the nitrogen solenoid is constantly exposed to gasoline fumes, this fact, over time, worsen its performance.
Finally, if the nitrogen pressure is too high, some cylinders may leak fuel mixture.
Since each of the systems discussed has its drawbacks, and if they scare you, pay attention to the direct nitrogen injection system. These systems use separate injectors for each cylinder. These systems are more advanced, but also more difficult to install. But technical excellence affects the cost of systems. After you have chosen the type of system for yourself, do not forget to pay attention to additional equipment, as a rule, without certain accessories, the operation of the system does not bring due pleasure.
In my opinion, one of the problems with nitrogen injection is a lean fuel mixture, this problem also applies to the use of turbines and superchargers in the engine. As a rule, for systems up to 100 hp. the performance of the standard fuel pump is quite sufficient.
For more powerful systems, a special fuel pump must be used or an additional one must be supplied. Such alteration of the fuel system will insure your engine against destruction due to a drop in fuel pressure to a critical level. A clean fuel filter is another important point. I haven’t heard of an engine blown up by a dirty fuel filter though. But don’t forget about it. If your system is set to at least 150 – 200 hp, not to mention more powerful ones, more drastic changes in the fuel system are desirable, for example, replacing the fuel line with a line with a large flow area of the tubes.
The next important issue is the ignition system. Engines with a nitrogen injection system installed require certain modifications to the ignition system. For example, using “cold” plugs or setting a smaller ignition angle.
The standard spark plugs used on the LT1 are not well adapted to work with a nitrogen injection system. Platinum LT1 spark plugs tend to retain a high temperature which can explode if nitrogen is used. In addition, the spark plug gap should be set to approximately 035 so that when the mixture is ignited, the spark does not go out. I am not going to recommend using this gap, everyone has their own preferences, however, the plugs should not be platinum, and the gap should not exceed 035. Depending on the power of the injection system, colder plugs may be needed.
Reducing the ignition time is another important factor when using nitrogen injection. I heard two reasons for this statement (but I cannot confirm or deny this statement), firstly – it reduces the chance of impact (detonation), secondly – for faster combustion of the fuel mixture, for maximum power. The ignition timing must be reduced by 1-1.5 degrees for every additional 50 hp. In addition, one must be very careful when using chip tuning.
Naturally, you can go further and upgrade the ignition control unit, coil, etc. But for most systems (excluding very powerful ones), these recommendations are sufficient.
Now let’s move on to real work. Once you have purchased the system, it is time to install it. I’m going to tell you about installing a wet system. This is the system I am most familiar with. However, most of the recommendations apply to installing a “dry” system.
First, about the balloon. The nitrogen cylinder consists of 4 parts: the cylinder itself, the valve, the “deflated” pressure valve and the gas tube. I think that the device and the principle of operation of the balloon and the valve are quite obvious, I will not dwell on their device.
A “deflate” valve is a safety device (usually located directly opposite the main fitting) that is designed to open if the cylinder pressure exceeds the nominal pressure (approximately 1600-1800 Psi).
Gas tube – is a slightly curved tube that is located inside the cylinder and provides nitrogen to the valve. The tube is slightly bent near the base of the balloon. The angle of installation of the cylinder in the car is very important. The cylinder must be installed in such a way that the tube is always immersed in nitrogen.
Manufacturers provide the necessary brackets and instructions for installing the cylinder. Typically, the installation degree is 15 degrees.
After the cylinder and brackets are installed, the next task is to install the gas line to the engine. Although the easiest way is to run the gas line through the passenger compartment, this method is not very safe. If a line break occurs, nitrogen can cause serious burns, it must be remembered that nitrogen, when released into the atmosphere, goes into a gaseous state. I chose the way to install the highway through the left side member of the frame. A good device to provide additional safety (although by no means necessary) is an additional nitrogen solenoid in parallel with the main one. Thus, when the first solenoid is clogged, the system will remain operational for some time, although very short. For “wet” nitrogen injection systems, intervention in the regular fuel system is required. Fortunately, this is easily done on the LT1. I just increased the cross section of the fuel line, replacing the tubes with similar ones, but with a larger cross section. Next, I installed an additional fuel pump between the gas tank and the fuel filter. This redesign of the fuel system made the fuel flow optimal for a 150 hp nitrogen injection system. That’s the extra power my system is set up for.
For “wet” systems, a mixture of nitrogen and fuel is injected through special plates that are installed between the carburetor and the intake manifold or by injectors that are installed in the intake manifold, depending on the number of cylinders. When the system is activated, many small holes in each nozzle spray a mist of fuel and nitrogen mixture into the manifold.
Fogger nozzles perform the same function, but do so through a single orifice that sprays “fog” in front of the throttle.
The system I installed uses a plate. On the LT1, it is simply installed between the intake manifold and the throttle. Installation is as expected very simple – just remove the baffle, install the plate using the special spacers and assemble the assembly.
Then you need to install the solenoids and the gas line. In those kits of nitrogen injection systems that are designed for certain engine models, all the necessary brackets are present. In other cases, you need to get a little creative and design a pair of solenoid brackets. I had to make a couple of brackets, order some extra fittings, and change the length of a few of the gas lines that came with the kit (they were too long).
The biggest problem I had was finding a place under the hood to put the solenoids, I didn’t want to put them in plain sight. I found one behind the intake manifold on the passenger side. The solenoids were mounted on brackets to the body. Believe me, it takes time to properly install the system on your own. Installing the gas hoses under the hood took a little time and effort, in the end I painted the hoses black, so it became problematic to determine the presence of the installed system, which is what I wanted. When installing fittings and gas hoses, a few things must be taken into account: on threaded connections, do not use tape to seal the connections, Teflon sealant is the best choice. Use a small amount of sealant. There is the following reason for such a statement – particles of the tape can clog the solenoid. And this is unpleasant. Secondly, when installing additional metal gas and gasoline pipes, be careful when you bend them, but you will have to do this. In the end, use a special tool. Installation of solenoids is extremely simple and comes down to docking valves to the gas line.
The basic nitrogen injection system uses only two solenoids (fuel and gas) connected in parallel to the switch. Personally, I would recommend using two switches. The first is the main one that activates the system, the second is an additional throttle switch – a sensor that monitors the position of the throttle and allows you to turn on the system only when the throttle is fully open. The solenoids must be protected by a fuse. As a rule, fuel and nitrogen solenoids draw less than 15 amps, so it will not be difficult to select a fuse. Finally, about checking the installed system. In principle, checking the system comes down to the normal operation of the solenoids. It is these two valves that you should pay special attention to. Before operating the system, you should check if everything is installed correctly and if everything works as it should, be sure to check for fuel leaks, etc. To check the operation of the fuel solenoid, close the cylinder valve, activate the system, and turn on the throttle sensor (not the throttle itself, but an additional switch). If the solenoid is functioning properly, the engine will run rough and may well stall due to the extra fuel. Checking the nitrogen solenoid is almost as easy. Since the operation of the gas solenoid is much more intense than the fuel solenoid, when you turn it on, you should hear a click, which means the valve opens and closes.
Once the installation is complete and everything is working properly, you need to set up the system. Before attempting to tune the nitrous system, I highly recommend adjusting the stock fuel system. This adjustment is reduced to setting the correct formation of the fuel-air mixture. One of the main adjustment points is the optimal cylinder pressure. Your cylinder must provide the necessary pressure for the correct operation of the nitrogen injection system. Most injection systems are designed for tank pressure, approximately 1000PSI. If the pressure corresponds to this parameter, the system operates at maximum power, if the pressure exceeds the nominal, this will affect the air-fuel mixture, it will be too lean and power loss is guaranteed, reducing the pressure has the opposite effect – the mixture is richer.
A good method of monitoring air/fuel mixture formation is to use a gas analyzer. I also heard a lot from professionals about monitoring the mixture by measuring the temperature of the exhaust gases (for a lean mixture, the exhaust is hotter), but for me it is much more convenient to use a gas analyzer. There are several ways to adjust the air/fuel mixture when using a “wet” nitrogen injection system. You can change fuel and gas jets. If the mixture is rich, use a smaller fuel jet (or, correspondingly, a larger gas jet). If the air/fuel mixture is lean, install a smaller nitrogen jet and a larger fuel jet. In addition, if your system is capable of adjusting the fuel regulator, you can adjust the fuel supply using adjustments.
If, like me, you’re addicted to using nitrogen to get extra power, you’ll definitely want to supplement your system with additional components, often quite useful. Next, I will talk about the components that I added to my system and the components that I will purchase in the near future.
First, about devices that increase the safety of using the system. System switch that responds to the number of revolutions. This device is extremely useful, the principle of operation is as follows: the switch will turn off the nitrogen supply when the speed drops to a predetermined minimum. As far as I heard, the use of this switch is also useful in that it is possible to activate the nitrogen injection system when the engine speed reaches at least 2500.
Another good thing is a speed limiter (manufacturers like MSD, Crane, Accell, Jacobs, and others sell these as part of the ignition kit.) On the LT1, the top speed limiter cuts off the fuel supply, but when using nitrogen, this can lead to insufficient fuel that will adversely affect your engine, and also, under this condition of fuel supply, the mixture will become leaner, the restrictor is able to cut off the spark from certain engine cylinders, which in turn will lead to an unburned fuel-nitrogen mixture that will ignite in the muffler (this much better than a burnt piston).
Finally, I would also recommend using a fuel pressure gauge. The function of such a sensor is to control fuel pressure, and if the pressure drops to a critical minimum, the switch will turn off the system, this will prevent engine damage and save you from subsequent repairs. Switch response is lightning fast. One feature of “wet” systems should be noted when installing the fuel solenoid: the fact is that when the fuel solenoid opens, a slight decrease in pressure is inevitable, since. fuel needs to fill the line from the solenoid to the injector, so it is necessary to minimize the length of the fuel line leading from the solenoid to the injector.
Now about upgrading the system. One of the most useful (in my opinion) acquisitions should be a cylinder heater. We already know that the most common cylinder pressure is around 1000 Psi (if the pressure is below this, a rich mixture will occur). The optimum cylinder temperature required to maintain the required pressure is 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
The electric cylinder heater is a small flexible casing that is mounted on the cylinder. As a rule, more powerful heaters are equipped with a temperature controller. The material from which the heater is made also helps to maintain the pace of an already heated cylinder.
Another useful tool (again, in my opinion) is the cylinder purge valve. The canister purge valve is a solenoid with a small tube that mounts next to the nitrogen solenoid and purges air from the system. This valve is activated manually using a special switch. This operation prevents a delay in the activation of the nitrogen injection system due to the possibility of an air bubble.
One of my favorite system add-ons is the programmable controller. This gizmo allows you to take complete control over the power of your system. Depending on the given program, you adjust the nitrogen supply depending on the track conditions, time, etc.
And lastly, a remote cylinder valve (a very convenient device). Such a valve allows you to open or close the nitrogen supply remotely. This device does not replace the standard cylinder valve, it works in parallel.
Next, what electronic components I added to my system (under the guidance of my friend Eric*a Danstrom*a). Most of the components are used for the convenience of system control, but many increase the safety level of nitrogen injection. Some of the additional components I have installed:
Throttle sensor (switch)
Cylinder cleaning valve
Remote cylinder valve
Nitrogen and fuel pressure sensors
I think the general reputation of the nitrogen injection system as dangerous is false. In my opinion nitrogen systems have gained this reputation because of their comparatively low cost (compared to other methods of adding the same power to an engine. My opinion is that if you use the system carefully and have the appropriate safety devices, nitrogen injection systems are just as safe, as well as other engine modifications (turbines, mechanical superchargers, etc.) All the troubles that I heard about using nitrogen injection could have been avoided if the necessary precautions had been observed. 0005
There is an undeniable benefit when using nitrogen – the ability to activate the system when you need it, while the rest of the time operating the car in the usual mode, thereby limiting the load on the engine.
Types of nitrous oxide injection systems
Injection systems are divided into “dry” and “wet”, as well as direct injection systems. Each of which has both pluses and minuses.
“Dry” nitrous oxide injection systems.
The operating pressure of the system is about 80psi, which is an order of magnitude higher than the usual pressure of the air-gasoline mixture. High pressure is maintained by the operation of the fuel solenoid and the higher capacity fuel pump.
By the way, it is not always necessary to replace a regular fuel pump before switching to nitrous oxide mode. For example, on engines up to 100 hp. regular pumps cope with this task quite well (provided that short-term overloads are sufficient). It should be clarified that in the nitrous mode, fuel through the solenoid enters directly into the intake manifold (the presence of this feature must be taken into account).
The main advantage of such a system is low price and ease of installation. You can buy nitrous oxide directly through the online store, which offers high quality goods and fast round-the-clock delivery.
By the way You won’t have to change anything cardinally in the stock engine, but there will be several disadvantages from using it. One of these disadvantages is that a stable mixture is not always obtained. This is due to both pressure fluctuations in the cylinder and the fact that fuel is supplied directly to the manifold.
Wet systems use fuel and nitrogen injection. Injection plates are installed between the intake manifold and the engine power system. The result is a more controlled mixture.
Wet systems also have their pros and cons. When using stock engine power systems, a fuel puddle may form in the manifold (by the way, a similar one can occur with dry systems),
which is fraught with instability, on the other hand, if everything is set up correctly, the proportions of the nitrogen-fuel mixture are more stable.
If we talk about the direct injection system, then only its high cost and rather complicated installation can be attributed to the minuses. In all other respects, this is the most perfect option that contains the maximum number of pluses. With direct injection, a separate nozzle is also installed on each cylinder.
Installation of a nitrous oxide injection system.
on motors with a power of less than 100 hp. as practice has shown, the regular fuel pump copes well with short-term loads. If there is a problem in the form of a lean mixture on a more powerful installation, then the fuel pump is most likely to blame because it lacks performance, which is a fairly common problem that is solved by installing either a more powerful fuel pump or its additional counterpart. For installations with a power increase of more than 100 hp it is required to replace the supply line with a line with a large cross section.
Engines with a nitrous oxide system require a 1-1.