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How To Clean Grout on Floor Tile — Pro Housekeepers

How To Clean Grout on Floor Tile — Pro Housekeepers

June 4, 2022

Posted in Cleaning Tips And More

Cleaning tile floors with grout can be a tricky topic. The tiles may seem to wipe clean, but grout on floor tile holds grudges. Dirt and debris cling to this material, making us scrub and scrub while scratching our heads. The trick is knowing how to clean grout off the floor tiles without damaging it or driving yourself crazy. 

There is no specific method, so instead, we can talk about many different ways to find solutions that leave us with a sparkling clean tile and its grout.

How to clean grout on floor tile

The first step in understanding how to clean grout off floor tile is to understand the different types of grout. Many types of grout require slightly different methods because they react differently to various chemicals or cleaning products. 

  1. Sanded Grout: this type of grout is gritty and usually used for larger sections like ⅛ to 1-inch fillings. It’s a cement filling that is commonly used for high-trafficked floors. 
  2. Unsanded Grout: is also a cement filling but is usually used for more narrow types of jobs. Typically trying to clean this grout is easier than sanded. 
  3. Epoxy Grout – this grout can be found in areas that may be exposed to water. Potentially mudrooms, bathrooms, or outdoor rooms. Arguably this is the easiest grout to clean. 

We can look at how to clean grout with a few different methods based on some of these products. 

How to clean floor grout without scrubbing

Because floor grout can sometimes disintegrate when it’s gritty by scrubbing, it’s better to avoid this process at times. This method requires ⅓  cup of baking soda and ¼ cup of hydrogen peroxide. Next, add a teaspoon of liquid dish soap. 

The secret is just applying this to grout. Let this sit for five to ten minutes without doing anything to it. Then, using a towel or sponge, wipe off gently and let the grout dry on its own. Most people are inclined to try and scrub the material while it’s on, but this is not necessary. 

Baking soda helps remove tough dirt, while hydrogen peroxide is a safer alternative to use than bleach on your floors. 

How do professionals clean grout?

Not everyone can hire a professional cleaning service to wipe away the dirt. But that doesn’t mean that we don’t want our homes to look just as clean. So how do professionals clean grout? If they are not using the formula above, you may be surprised to read what they do next. 

Materials Used:

  • Vinegar
  • Water
  • Gentle brush (toothbrush) 
  • Spray bottle

That’s it! Cleaning grout can be simple, and by using a 1:1 ratio of vinegar to the water, professional cleaners often just spray it on and use a gentle toothbrush to loosen the dirt. They may also use a non-shedding lint-free cloth to wipe up some of the solutions but not to scrub away the dirt.  It’s important not to use excessive solution, especially with non-water resistant grout.  

How to clean grout without damaging it

As mentioned before, there are different types of grouts. Some are more susceptible to damage because the grittier it is, the more friction it will encounter when you scrub it. Ultimately it will wear away and cause the cement to come up. 

The best way to avoid damage is to revert to the non-scrubbing method. This is your bleach alternative by using a combination of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. However, that doesn’t mean we can’t implement a few more tips. 

  1. Do not use high friction brushes, sandpapers, or other materials to try and scrub away the dirt. Especially no scrapers! 
  2. Stick to homemade cleaners, as many store-bought products have harsh chemicals that can break up your grout and damage your tiles. 
  3. Always dab with a sturdy cloth when working with too much liquid on the grout. Even with water-resistant grout, it’s best to clean up excess cleaner. 

With these simple tips, you can have clean grout and undamaged surfaces. Ultimately, it’s always better just to proceed with caution. if you did damage your grout, you would have to spend more time replacing it.

Now, we have shared a few different cleaners, but those aren’t the only options. In addition, there are a few different tricks of the trade that you can experiment with to see which secret sauce works best for you! 

Whitening Trick

If you want white grout, check out this wild ingredient list that really does the trick. 

  1. Mix one teaspoon of cream of tartar sauce with a squirt of lemon juice. 
  2. This won’t create a lot of mix, but it’s best used as a spot treatment. 
  3. Apply to specific areas of dirt and spread accordingly. Always make sure it’s a runny toothpaste texture. 
  4. Leave on for a few minutes and wipe it up gently with a slightly damp cloth. 

If you are not into being a scientist in the kitchen, you can always use Castle Dish Soap. It’s plant-based, so there is nothing to worry about regarding harsh ingredients.  

Grout cleaning hacks

Just because we have talked about some of the best ways to clean your grout doesn’t mean we are out of cleaning hacks. Cleaning grout is one of those things that really looks simple, but suddenly you find yourself digging a crater into your kitchen floor. It can be frustrating to try all these different things and feel like your floor is no cleaner. The whitening method above is one of the best hacks, but we have a few more. 

  • Try our Epsom salt dish soap recipe. It’s ½ cup of baking soda, 1 cup of Epsom salts, and one and ¼ cup of liquid dish soap! Mix together and use it as a solution to lightly scrub the area. 
  • Using a stiff brush for grouts that don’t disintegrate quickly can be an excellent way to get rid of the collected dirt. Ultimately these are grouts that are not brand new but relatively new in flooring. The older a floor is, the more likely it has wear and tear. 
  • The best idea is to avoid using paper towels, toilet paper, or any disintegrated cloth when wet. Instead, use a sturdy microfiber lint-free cloth and can get into the creases without ease. You can even line a scraper with one to protect the grout from being dug up. 

Cleaning grout with bleach

Ok, so we haven’t mentioned any use of bleach yet, and you are likely wondering whether cleaning grout with bleach is off the table. The answer is no, not entirely. One of the ideas behind not using bleach is sometimes the potential impact the harsh chemicals can have or just the fact that some people don’t like using bleach in their household at all. 

To do this properly, you want to follow the next steps:

  1. Take three tablespoons of powdered bleach (Oxiclean works) and mix with warm water in a bucket. 
  2. We always suggest working with gloves to keep your hands well protected and never touch your face or eyes. 
  3. Fill the grout lines with the solution and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to really get all the dirt up. 
  4. Rinse your grout lines well with water and a cloth or sponge to get the bleach up. This is especially important for pet owners. 

How to clean grout on tile floors with hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide and baking soda produce an oxygenated bleach and also provide a safer, homemade option. It’s also one of the most highly effective methods of cleaning grout. This is because it’s a natural neutral cleaner. 

You can clean the floors by applying the paste to grout and leaving for 10-15 minutes before wiping it up. 

Cleaning grout with baking soda

Baking soda can go in a number of the recipes we listed above to find the right kind of cleaning solution or paste. Baking soda is a little more aggressive in terms of getting dirt up from porous surfaces like grout. This would be one of the solutions that we would recommend not scrubbing if possible because it can possibly cause damage.

A Madness of Methods

It can be tricky when it comes to getting the dirty spots up between the tiles. Grout is a gritty kind of material that often makes for a more difficult clean-up. Some cleaning products can also be temperamental, using homemade options is never a bad idea. That’s why we have given many alternatives starting from more to less aggressive. 

When it comes to the actual application and cleaning, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and try not to scrub. Scrubbing with the wrong products can cause the grout to loosen and come up. 

It can take a few tries to find the best method. We encourage you to try a few of the homemade ingredients listed above. 

How to clean grout – for perfect tile lines |

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Cleaning grout is surprisingly satisfying once you get started, and a great way to make your bathroom feel brand new without spending any money. 

Whether the grout around your shower has turned a delightful shade of orange due to shampoo build-up or your floor tiles are in need of cleaning, we have you covered.

Below are the best grout cleaning tips, recommended by cleaning experts, for light stains and deep stains, plus some preventative measures to avoid mold and mildew appearing on the grout in the first place, so your next bathroom cleaning session takes less work.

How to clean grout

The tile itself is easy to keep looking its best, but grout can prove more tricky to deal with because it is porous and prone to staining. Add to that the fact that in the bathroom particularly the humid atmosphere provides mold with the conditions in which it thrives, so it can speckle grout.

(Image credit: Future PLC)

1. For light stains

Scrub with warm soapy water

For light stains, it could be sufficient to clean the grout along with the tile itself using nothing but warm water. However, it may need a little more than this and, if that’s the case, make up a solution of water and dish soap and apply using a microfiber cloth, at Amazon or a microfiber mop in the case of floor tile. 

If this isn’t effective, you can use an old toothbrush or a stiff grout cleaning brush, at Amazon – to work along the lines to clean the grout. Remove any residue by wiping it with hot water.

2. For deep stains

Brush with The Pink Stuff

To take the effort out of removing tough stains, try an alkaline cleaner, such as The Pink Stuff, at Amazon, combined with the stiff brush. This is Homes & Gardens’ junior writer Chiana Dickson’s favorite method: ‘When it comes to grout I love to clean with The Pink Stuff,’ she says. 

‘I use an old, clean toothbrush to scrub the lines with a grape-sized amount of The Pink Stuff paste before blasting away with some cold water and wiping with a clean, dry towel. Cleaning grout this way helps to lift most stains and brighten the grout lines as the mild abrasive works away at built-up grime and dirt.  

‘I tried it on my old entryway tiles where the grout had turned nearly black and, after a few applications, it was back to a much more attractive light gray shade,’ Chiana shares.

There are various specialist grout cleaners out there, too – we also like Grout Eez. Make sure to rinse thoroughly afterward, whether cleaning mold in the shower, or around sinks.

Junior Writer

Chiana has been at Homes & Gardens for six months, having started her journey in interior journalism as part of the graduate program. She spends most of her time producing content for the Solved section of the website, helping readers get the most out of their homes through clever decluttering, cleaning, and tidying tips – many of which she tests and reviews herself in her home in Lancaster to ensure they will consistently deliver for her readers.

Try a drill bit or shop vac

For a less effortful alternative, you might want to take a lead from house rehab specialist Bill Samuel of Blue Ladder Development and get a drill bit brush, available at Walmart. ‘This will do a much better job of scrubbing the grout clean than you could ever do by hand,’ he comments.

If you’re the owner of a shop vac, this can be a great answer to how to clean grout in floor tile. Apply an alkaline cleaner according to product instructions, then use the shop vac to lift the dirty water, recommends the TCNA. As well as getting rid of the water, the vac will lift the dirt from the grout.

Follow that by rinsing, then use the shop vac again so no soap film is left behind, the experts say.

Use a specialist mold remover

Mold can thrive in the damp conditions of a bathroom and is most often found on grout. If after cleaning the grout as above you’re left with black areas, this is likely to be the culprit. To tackle this, use a specialist mold-removing product for grout. 

Thinking about using bleach? Be aware that bleach can discolor grout. It can also weaken it over time, so it’s not the answer. 

‘If you must use bleach, dilute it with water and use it sparingly,’ says Penny Nicholas from Sparkling Penny. ‘Alternatively, use hydrogen peroxide, which is a safer and more effective alternative to bleach.’

Professional Cleaner

Penny Nicholas is the professional cleaner behind cleaning blog Sparkling Penny. She aims to be a a go-to source for all things cleaning around the home after learning top cleaning tricks and hacks running her own holiday cottage for over ten years. 

Preventative measures

There are lots of ways to reduce moisture levels in the bathroom, which will prevent stains and help you avoid having to remove black mold that has built up over time. Wipe tiles down with an old towel or squeegee when you’re finished in the shower, and keep the space well-ventilated by opening a window or using one of the best dehumidifiers. This will also help prevent and get rid of silverfish, which are attracted to moisture.


How can I get my grout white again?

To restore grout to whiteness, or its alternative original shade, mix baking soda and water to create a paste and brush gently onto the grout with a toothbrush. Cleaning professional Karina Toner from Spekless Cleaning recommends spraying on white vinegar over the paste to create a bubbling reaction and lift dirt out. 

‘Additionally, hydrogen peroxide, oxygen bleach, or a commercial grout stain remover can work wonders,’ she says.

What do professionals use to clean grout?

The pros tackle grout with special equipment. ‘We professionally clean grout by first inspecting the grout, then pre-spraying heavily stained areas, and then using a high pressure, hot water cleaning process to remove dirt and ground-in soil,’ says Diana Rodriguez-Zaba, president of cleaning company ServiceMaster Restoration by Zaba. 

‘We follow this up with a gentle clean water rinse that also extracts excess water. Once the grout is fully cleaned and dried, we typically apply a sealer to make the grout resistant to spills and stains and easier to clean in the future.’

Wondering if you should call someone in for grout cleaning? ‘Hiring a pro can be helpful when your grout is particularly dirty or when you just don’t have enough time to do it yourself,’ says Bailey Carson, home care expert at Angi. ‘Pros also have access to more specialized cleaning tools, like steam mops, that can clean your floors more deeply than you can when doing it by hand.’

You might want to team cleaning grout with cleaning a showerhead as this is another job that needs doing from time to time rather than weekly.

Does vinegar hurt grout?

Cleaning with vinegar isn’t the best choice for grout. The reason is that grout contains cement, which is dissolved by acids, and vinegar is acidic. A strong vinegar solution could therefore be detrimental to the grout – and bear in mind that it can also damage stone tiles. 

If you’re using a store-bought cleaner, an alkaline version is what you need – the TCNA suggests products such as Spic and Span or Mr. Clean, or use one of the methods, above. Cleaners to avoid, according to the TCNA, are oil and wax-based versions that leave a film that can attract dirt.

How do you clean grout without ruining the tiles?

‘If you’re looking for a gentle way to clean your grout, steam cleaning is the best option,’ says cleaning expert Penny Nicholas. ‘Instead of using harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbers, steam cleaning uses high-temperature steam to loosen dirt and stains. Plus, the steam kills bacteria. 

‘The best part? Steam cleaning requires minimal scrubbing.’

(Image credit: Future PLC)

As well as looking ugly, the mold spores can be bad for the family’s health, so if you don’t delay in tackling grubby grout. If the grout you are attempting to clean is beyond repair, there is the option to renew the grout completely, in which case you will need to learn how to grout tiles.

brand, consumption and proportions of cement per screed

Most modern projects of private houses, not to mention city apartments, involve the abandonment of wooden logs in favor of prefabricated floors made of reinforced concrete slabs or the installation of slabs at the construction site using monolithic technology. To level such a floor, cement-sand or concrete screeds are used. Also, their functions include – raising the base of the floor to the desired level and creating a smooth surface necessary for laying the finish coating. These mixtures are made on the basis of cement, water and sand. The difference between a concrete screed and a cement-sand screed is the presence of coarse aggregate (granite, gravel, limestone crushed stone). Let us consider in more detail what kind of cement is used for the manufacture of floor screed and what proportions of the components are optimal.

What grade of cement is best for floor screed?

Most often, when carrying out construction and construction and repair work, which includes the installation of a floor screed, Portland cement grade M400 is used. The index in the marking corresponds to the load at which the material retains its performance. Cement M400 after hardening can take a force up to 40 MPa. The setting of the mixture based on this binder begins after about 1.5 hours and ends after 2-2.5 hours. After the brand in the designation, the letter “D” and a number indicating the presence of mineral additives in% are indicated.

  • M400 D0 – material consisting only of clinker. There are no additives in it.
  • M400 D5. The amount of mineral additives – up to 5%.

This familiar marking is regulated by the old GOST 101785-85. It was replaced by GOST 31108-2003, and then 31108-2016. They adopted a new marking of cement. The letters CEM are indicated at the beginning. The letter group is followed by the Roman numerals I or II (for Portland cement). The number I indicates the absence of additives or their total content is not more than 6%, II – the presence of additives within 35%. The compressive strength in these standards is characterized not by the brand, but by the class. Thus, the material grade M400 corresponds to a product of strength class B32.5. Cement M400 D0 and M400 D5 according to the new marking corresponds to the material CEM I 32.5.

What kind of cement is needed for floor screeds that are exposed to high loads or operate at low temperatures? For this purpose, the binder CEM I 42.5 (M500 D0) is usually used.

What points are important when buying screed cement?

The characteristics of the binder are greatly influenced by the conditions and terms of storage after its production. The bulk density of fresh cement depends on the fineness of grinding, but on average it is 1000-1200 kg / m 3 . If it is stored in conditions other than those established by the standards, or for too long, then this figure increases to 1700 kg / m 3 . If the relative humidity is high, then up to 3000 kg/m 3 . Such an increase in bulk density leads to a significant decrease, and then a complete loss of astringent properties. From an active binder, the product turns into an inert crumb.

For home construction, it is recommended to purchase packaged material, since it is more difficult to determine the date of manufacture for bulk material, moreover, it is more difficult to store it. It is usually sold in strong paper bags of 25 and 50 kg. The brand of binder according to the old and new GOSTs, batch number, date of manufacture, recommendations for storage and use are indicated on the packaging. When buying screed cement, you should inspect the packaging for integrity, feel the bag (the contents should be soft to the touch, without lumps). The release date should be as recent as possible. Even with proper storage, cement loses approximately 15% of its original performance every three months. If you have to use a long, but properly stored cement, its percentage in the mortar or mixture must be increased by 15-20%.

The ratio of components in cement-sand screeds

For the installation of screeds up to 50 mm thick, only cement-sand mortars or materials with garnet seeding are used, in which the grain size does not exceed 7 mm. The proportions of the components depend on the brand of binder and the required brand of the finished solution. If the screed is laid in a room with low traffic, then it is enough to make a cement-sand mortar of the M100 brand (strength class B 7.5). If increased loads on the floor are planned, then it is recommended to use a material of a higher grade M150 (B10, B12. 5). In addition, high-quality solutions quickly gain strength sufficient for finishing work.

Table of consumption of cement and other components of cement-sand mortars for screeds

Cement grade Brand of cement-sand mortar, C:P (by weight)
M100 M150
400 1:4.5 1:3
500 1:5.5 1:4

When drying, the cement-sand screed, even if the technological rules for pouring and maintenance are observed, may become covered with cracks. To reduce the likelihood of their occurrence, fiber is added to the solution. In residential areas with low and medium traffic, polypropylene fibers are used. They not only prevent the formation of cracks, but also increase the wear resistance of the surface. Fiber additives are recommended for screeds under soft floor finishes such as linoleum and PVC tiles. In 1 m 3 of a mixture intended for floors with low traffic, add about 300 g of fibers. When making a solution with fiber, dry components (cement, sand, fiber fibers) are usually mixed first, and then water is added to the mixture.

How much cement is needed to make a concrete screed?

For screed thicknesses greater than 50 mm, a concrete mixture is usually used instead of a cement-sand mortar. In concrete screeds, in addition to cement, sand and water, crushed stone is present.

Expanded clay granules are used as a coarse aggregate to obtain a mixture with high thermal insulation characteristics.

Coarse aggregate must not exceed 20 mm. But you can also focus on this rule: the thickness of the screed must be greater than twice the maximum size of coarse aggregate. That is, in a layer 50 mm thick, only aggregate with a maximum grain size of 25 mm can be present.

Concrete mixes of strength class B15 (M200) are commonly used for screeds. The ratio of the amount of cement grade M400 by weight to other components (Ts:P:Sh) in concrete screeds is 1:2:5. Plasticizers are added according to the instructions. The ratio of cement and water is 1:1-1.4.

The surface of the concrete surface is not ideal due to the presence of coarse aggregate. It is leveled with sanding tools or with a self-levelling finish screed, which can be bought dry at a hardware store.

Ironing of cement-sand and concrete screeds

When laying floor screeds, cement is used not only for the preparation of a cement-sand mortar or concrete mix, but also for ironing. This procedure, for which dry cement is used, makes it possible to strengthen the surface of the screed, reduce dust formation during operation, and increase its working life.

Stages of dry ironing:

  • Work on strengthening the top layer of the floor begins after 5-7 hours after pouring. During this time, the cement stone sets and acquires strength sufficient to walk on the floor.
  • The surface is sprinkled with dry cement (usually grade M400) and rubbed with a trowel in gentle circular motions.
  • Cement draws excess moisture from the laid mortar or mixture, penetrates into the pores and gradually forms a high-strength greenish glossy crust.

Further work on the installation of the final floor covering can be carried out only 10 days after dry ironing.

The use of clean, dry iron cement is the easiest, but not the most effective option, because the resulting top crust is not very durable. Over time, this layer begins to break down. To create a high-strength peel, it is recommended to purchase a ready-made dry mix based on cement with various additives that improve the adhesion of the top layer to the base.

What kind of sand is needed for floor screed and how to calculate the amount

February 21, 2022

Pavel Petrov

Reading time: 3 minutes



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What kind of sand is needed for floor screed to get a smooth, durable surface that will last for many years and withstand any load? Let’s figure out which types and fractions are suitable for dry, semi-dry, wet screed. We calculate the required volume of sand and tell you about the composition of the mixtures.

Types of floor screeds

Floor screed is a leveling layer between the base of the floor and the top coat – linoleum, laminate, tiles. There are three alignment technologies – wet, dry or semi-dry. Each screed arrangement technology differs in materials, their proportions and application features. All options have their advantages and disadvantages, which must be considered when choosing.

Dry screed

This type of flooring does not use water. It is made from light bulk materials – expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite, on which a metal profile and sheets of drywall, plywood or fiberboard are laid. Instead of perlite or expanded clay, medium or coarse sand can be used.

An excellent option for buildings where there are no changes in humidity, freezing, or water flow. Suitable for houses with low sound insulation, as it dampens sound vibrations. It is not suitable for wet rooms – the wet material will stop in lumps, lose its properties, deform and sag.

Semi-dry screed

When laying this floor, a blower machine feeds a wet mixture of 500 grade cement, coarse sand material, fiberglass and plasticizers. The finished mass is leveled on a rough base and, after drying, is used as a base for floor coverings.

The addition of expanded clay to the mixture improves sound insulation, and granite chips make the surface stronger. Plasticizers speed up the drying time of the mixture and improve heat retention.

Wet screed

Concrete mortar with or without aggregate is laid on the subfloor. A good result is the use of a sand mixture with cement grades M300-M500 and water – it allows you to get durable elastic coatings that can withstand a lot of weight. After hardening, the poured layer is suitable for any floor – tiles, parquet, porcelain stoneware. It is used for arranging underfloor heating – heating elements can be rolled into cement mortar.

Ties for production and industrial premises

For floors, workshops, garages, car services and other technical premises, a wet method with reinforcement is suitable. Due to increased loads, only seeded or washed fine or medium fraction building material with a grain size of up to 2.5 mm can be used here.

Excellent load-bearing wet screed with the addition of screenings – a building material obtained by crushing rocks. After drying, high-strength concrete is obtained. Sifting can be replaced with fine-grained gravel.

Which sand to choose for the floor screed

Sand without large stones and clay is suitable for all pouring and backfilling options. It can be river, sea or quarry, but must be clean. Therefore, it is better to buy seeded or washed.

Very important size of fraction is the size of grains of sand. Building material of different fractions is suitable for different types of floors:

  • Fine fractions up to 1.5 mm in size and medium fractions with a particle size of up to 2–2.5 mm are used for “wet” leveling. They make a high-quality cement-sand mortar, but with a very small size of grains of sand, the volume of cement must be increased. For additional strength, the poured layer is reinforced.
  • Coarse-grained version suitable for laying semi-dry and dry screed. The main thing is that it contains a minimum of impurities. Otherwise, the floor surface will be deformed, broken, and this will inevitably lead to damage to the finish coating laid on it.

The type of sand – quarry or river – does not affect the choice so much. There is one caveat – the river is more difficult to mix, so it is better to use a concrete mixer for laying a wet floor. Technically, use quartz or artificial, but the high price makes their use impractical.

What are the requirements for sand

The building material must meet the requirements of GOST 26633-2012, 8736-2014. The main requirements are:

  1. Uniformity. There should not be very large particles, and the volume of too small, dusty, should not exceed 10%.
  2. Purity. Clay, plant particles and other impurities degrade the quality of the solution. Therefore, it is better to buy seeded or washed.
  3. Environmentally friendly. The maximum radiation background for living quarters is 370 Bq/kg. This indicator is indicated in the accompanying documents.
  4. Moisture is important for the dry process. According to GOST 8736-2014, it should be in the range of 0.1% to 0.5% by weight. Raw material is not suitable, because after drying it clumps, decreases in volume and deforms the floor covering. For semi-dry or wet technology, the moisture index is not critical, since water is added to the solution, but it is not recommended to buy heavily wet sand.

Mortar proportions for different types of screed

  1. Dry technology the solution is not kneaded – the material is simply poured onto the base and covered with sheets of drywall, fiberboard or plywood on top. For other cases, the ratio of components is important:
  2. For semi-dry technology per 1 sq.m. with a layer thickness of 5 cm, 15 kg of cement, 0.065 m3 of sand and 40 g of fiber are used. Two or three liters of water are gradually added to the mixture. When mixing the solution, it is necessary to check its consistency. If everything is correct, then the mixture, clenched into a fist, forms a ball and does not stain the palm. If wet marks remain on the hand, it means that a lot of moisture has been added, and if the ball breaks up, it needs to be added.
  3. For classic wet screed per 1 sq. m of a 5-centimeter layer, you need 25 kg of cement and 75 kg of sand. If the grains of sand are very small, the volume of cement is increased by 10–15%. Water is added until the solution becomes like thick sour cream.
  4. When casting with the addition of screenings or crushed stone , other proportions are used – 1 part cement to 3 parts sand and 5 parts screenings or fine gravel. The components must be mixed and water added to obtain a solution of a creamy consistency.

Using these proportions, you can calculate the amount of building materials for a room of any size. Be sure to add 20% to the final result for technological losses.

Calculation example

For example, you need to pour 30 square meters. m of a five-centimeter coating using wet technology. We multiply all volumes by 30:

  • cement – 25×30 = 750 kg;
  • sand – 75×30 = 2250 kg.

We add 20% of production losses to the result. It turns out that we need 900 kg of cement, 2700 kg of sand. You can also read the expense for any building. Round up all calculations.

Tips for choosing sand for floor screed

  1. Wet screed with screenings or crushed stone is more profitable than the classic one. Additives save money because they are cheaper than cement. Such a coating does not shrink, and nothing will happen to it even after many years of operation under high loads.
  2. You can determine the quality of sand at home – for this you need to pour a small amount into a container and fill it with water. If after 10 minutes the liquid becomes cloudy, then there is a lot of clay in the sample. It is undesirable to use such building material.
  3. Instead of expensive seeded sand, you can buy simple quarry sand, which is then sieved. To do this, use a fine mesh stretched over a wooden frame or a bucket with small holes drilled from below. This option is suitable for small areas, since it is very difficult to manually clean large volumes of foreign inclusions.
  4. Many people are wondering where to buy semi-dry plasticiser. They are sold in the same companies where other non-metallic materials are sold.
  5. Adding a small amount of dish soap or replacing 2-3% of the water with PVA glue will help soften the mortar.